Florida's Forgotten Coast Trip Report
Jun 17th, 2007, 05:06 PM
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Florida's Forgotten Coast Trip Report
aka Starrsville finds the Forgotten Coast -
Actually, it's Starrsville's favorite part of Florida. The Forgotten Coast/ Old Florida is the stretch is usually listed as the stretch between Carrabelle and Mexico Beach. My favorite stretch is between Apalach and Port St. Joe -
http://www.visitgulf.com/virtualtour.cfm
I was amazed at how much construction had gone up since my last visit, but it is still very much low-key. No hotels, high rises, condo towers, strip centers, mini-golf, and cheezy tourist traps. The infrastructure for that type of development is not there (Thank God) so you have more houses than before, but still long expanse of sugar sand beaches with very few people on them.
For the most part, accomodations are weekly rentals during the summer. That's what I've done in previous years, but I only had a long weekend this time, so stayed at the Turtle Beach Inn.
http://www.turtlebeachinn.com/
The inn was wonderful. Tricia was a great hostess and provided a yummy breakfast each morning. Each room has outside entrances from wraparound porches - so it doesn't feel like a typical B&B. Okay, I've gotta hush now or it will be completely booked next time I want to go
Oh, Turtle, the lab, is happy to greet you if you want/need a pup fix (and of course I did).
Within walking distance is my favorite seafood restaurant, the Indian Pass Raw Bar. They've spruced it up a bit since last time, but it's basically still coolers in the back where you grab your own beer or sodas and seafood ordered off the wall menu. That's it. No sides. No salads. No soups. No baked potatoes. Just fresh steamed shrimp, oysters from Apalach Bay that are continually being shucked at the end of the country and crab legs. Okay, there are a few more items on the menu. Check the website for the full listing. Just real, fresh, fabulous (cheap) seafood.
www.indianpassrawbar.com
I was very disappointed though. They had live music on Saturday nights and it was way too loud in that little wooden (former general store) building. The lines and the wait was still long so we moseyed up to the bar in front of the shuckers and had our fill there.
If you need a business idea, you need to open a restaurant that's open on Sundays. We put our name in at the Loggerhead Cafe on the Cape, but drove into Port St. Joe to see if we could find anything in the intervening hour. We discovered the Dockside Cafe at the Marina and the food was great and the waterfront/marina location was perfect. We wondered the marina a big looking at the boats and watching the catch of the day being filleted while we waited for our table. Again, good simple seafood.
Most of the time it was just relaxing on the beach. Great breakfasts thanks to Trish in the beautifully decorated common area of the inn, a picnic lunch eaten in rocking chairs on the wraparound porch and sun time and nap time. The beach is gorgeous - and isolated. There was a group/family about a 1/4 mile down the beach one way and another sun shelter erected about a 1/2 mile down the other direction. That's the way it's been for the 15 years or so I've been going to the Pass.
We did drive out to the Cape and did a loop in the State Park. That beach was listed as the top beach in the US one year. There is a condo complex out that way (low rise) and lots and lots of rentals. Lots. But, not much else. Oh, Coneheads ice cream was pretty tasty!
We wandered into Apalach one afternoon to stroll and shop. Small little Florida town with some nice shops that have opened up in the last few years. We caught an afternoon rainstorm and whiled away our time in a pet shop and book store. Stopped in for a lemonade to quench our shopping thirst.
The last time I was on the coast (October) was a trip to St. George Island for a bit of beach time and a kayak excursion up a river. Both were lovely. St. George has a bit more going on that Indian Pass/ Cape San Blas (which is why I prefer the Pass)
Biggest disappointment on the trip - not being able to have a mini-GTG with SunshineSue. But, that will happen - maybe in the fall (I hope!).
If anyone is looking for a beautiful stretch of Florida beaches with a very, very quiet low key atmosphere and want time in the sun and sand to destress - well, there's a bit of old Florida waiting for you on the eastern Panhandle.
Actually, it's Starrsville's favorite part of Florida. The Forgotten Coast/ Old Florida is the stretch is usually listed as the stretch between Carrabelle and Mexico Beach. My favorite stretch is between Apalach and Port St. Joe -
http://www.visitgulf.com/virtualtour.cfm
I was amazed at how much construction had gone up since my last visit, but it is still very much low-key. No hotels, high rises, condo towers, strip centers, mini-golf, and cheezy tourist traps. The infrastructure for that type of development is not there (Thank God) so you have more houses than before, but still long expanse of sugar sand beaches with very few people on them.
For the most part, accomodations are weekly rentals during the summer. That's what I've done in previous years, but I only had a long weekend this time, so stayed at the Turtle Beach Inn.
http://www.turtlebeachinn.com/
The inn was wonderful. Tricia was a great hostess and provided a yummy breakfast each morning. Each room has outside entrances from wraparound porches - so it doesn't feel like a typical B&B. Okay, I've gotta hush now or it will be completely booked next time I want to go
Oh, Turtle, the lab, is happy to greet you if you want/need a pup fix (and of course I did).Within walking distance is my favorite seafood restaurant, the Indian Pass Raw Bar. They've spruced it up a bit since last time, but it's basically still coolers in the back where you grab your own beer or sodas and seafood ordered off the wall menu. That's it. No sides. No salads. No soups. No baked potatoes. Just fresh steamed shrimp, oysters from Apalach Bay that are continually being shucked at the end of the country and crab legs. Okay, there are a few more items on the menu. Check the website for the full listing. Just real, fresh, fabulous (cheap) seafood.
www.indianpassrawbar.com
I was very disappointed though. They had live music on Saturday nights and it was way too loud in that little wooden (former general store) building. The lines and the wait was still long so we moseyed up to the bar in front of the shuckers and had our fill there.
If you need a business idea, you need to open a restaurant that's open on Sundays. We put our name in at the Loggerhead Cafe on the Cape, but drove into Port St. Joe to see if we could find anything in the intervening hour. We discovered the Dockside Cafe at the Marina and the food was great and the waterfront/marina location was perfect. We wondered the marina a big looking at the boats and watching the catch of the day being filleted while we waited for our table. Again, good simple seafood.
Most of the time it was just relaxing on the beach. Great breakfasts thanks to Trish in the beautifully decorated common area of the inn, a picnic lunch eaten in rocking chairs on the wraparound porch and sun time and nap time. The beach is gorgeous - and isolated. There was a group/family about a 1/4 mile down the beach one way and another sun shelter erected about a 1/2 mile down the other direction. That's the way it's been for the 15 years or so I've been going to the Pass.
We did drive out to the Cape and did a loop in the State Park. That beach was listed as the top beach in the US one year. There is a condo complex out that way (low rise) and lots and lots of rentals. Lots. But, not much else. Oh, Coneheads ice cream was pretty tasty!
We wandered into Apalach one afternoon to stroll and shop. Small little Florida town with some nice shops that have opened up in the last few years. We caught an afternoon rainstorm and whiled away our time in a pet shop and book store. Stopped in for a lemonade to quench our shopping thirst.
The last time I was on the coast (October) was a trip to St. George Island for a bit of beach time and a kayak excursion up a river. Both were lovely. St. George has a bit more going on that Indian Pass/ Cape San Blas (which is why I prefer the Pass)
Biggest disappointment on the trip - not being able to have a mini-GTG with SunshineSue. But, that will happen - maybe in the fall (I hope!).
If anyone is looking for a beautiful stretch of Florida beaches with a very, very quiet low key atmosphere and want time in the sun and sand to destress - well, there's a bit of old Florida waiting for you on the eastern Panhandle.
Jun 17th, 2007, 07:07 PM
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Thanks y'all.
Anywhere between Apalachicola and Port St Joe are great. My best friend goes down each year to a big rental house with pool for a 3 generation getway on St. George Island. I like St. George - but it's too crowded for me (which you'll laugh at when you see it because it's still far less crowded than Panama City, Destin, etc.
My favorite part of the area is the Indian Pass / Cape San Blas area. It's really just one very long stretch of a beautiful beach.
I plan to go back during scallop season sometime (July). I want to scallop the grass beds of St. Joe Bay. Also want to rent a pontoon boat to play on the bay for a day - and the frolicking dolphins better show up!
They were visible from the beach every day and of course there were nesting sites of turtles marked off the beach. Just a wonderful, quiet section of Florida.
Anywhere between Apalachicola and Port St Joe are great. My best friend goes down each year to a big rental house with pool for a 3 generation getway on St. George Island. I like St. George - but it's too crowded for me (which you'll laugh at when you see it because it's still far less crowded than Panama City, Destin, etc.
My favorite part of the area is the Indian Pass / Cape San Blas area. It's really just one very long stretch of a beautiful beach.
I plan to go back during scallop season sometime (July). I want to scallop the grass beds of St. Joe Bay. Also want to rent a pontoon boat to play on the bay for a day - and the frolicking dolphins better show up!
They were visible from the beach every day and of course there were nesting sites of turtles marked off the beach. Just a wonderful, quiet section of Florida.
Jun 17th, 2007, 07:24 PM
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A location map of the inn -
http://www.turtlebeachinn.com/index.htm
A view of the stretch of white sand beach - zoom out to see the cape
http://maps.google.com/maps?um=1&tab...pass%20florida
http://www.turtlebeachinn.com/index.htm
A view of the stretch of white sand beach - zoom out to see the cape
http://maps.google.com/maps?um=1&tab...pass%20florida
Aug 8th, 2008, 07:42 AM
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I hope you don't mind, for the sake of consolidation, if I just attach my TR to your's Starr's. If you do, by all means, have Katie remove it.
We took a little trip to Florida's Forgotten Coast July 18th - 20th - a weekend trip.
We spent two nights at Turtle Beach Inn B&B which is beach front at Indian Pass. This is east of Port St. Joe & just past Cape San Blas, FL.
http://www.turtlebeachinn.com/index.htm
The area really does appear 'forgotten' as there are very few people there on the expansive beach. The B&B had 4 couples staying there at that time. One was a young couple from Indiana scouting for a future beach wedding site, one was celebrating their 25th anniversary (a gift from their daughter), and the other was two ladies who appeared to be have a reunion of friendship - girls weekend out sort of thing (they talked constantly comparing their families/children/spouses - the way best friends who haven't seen each other in a while tend to do).
The main purpose of this trip was to tick off another 1st - snorkeling for scallops. I've never done it, but have a friend who goes several times a year down around Crystal River, FL. She has family there. She always comes back raving about how much fun it was, and really got my curiosity up.
TBI was featured on Good Morning America (TV) several years ago & I'd bookmarked it. Then, last year, Starrsville wrote her TR about how great it (and Trish, who runs it) is.
I got to thinking I may be in a bit of a rut, always going to the same beach year after year (Perdido & Orange Beach, AL) & there's no scalloping there, so we decided to venture out & try something new.
I made the TBI reservations well in advance. They recommend Seahorse Water Safaris for a guided scallop trip & DH thought it best we go guided the first time, rather than renting a boat & going on our on. We'd hoped to get the lay of the (land) bay & how to manuver & learn exactly what it was all about.
About a week before going, I made the SWS reservations. On the way down, we stopped by the marina to see exactly where we'd need to be the next AM. Julia checked the book & says "Oh... right now, you are the only two people on the boat, and we require six. It being Friday night, someone will probably come in from the popular restaurant behind us & sign up tonight. We'll call you by 7PM to let you know."
Yep, the call comes, & we're the only ones, so it got canceled.
Though I was disappointed, it may have been for the best. My back had flared up a week or so prior & was not calming down the way it normally does with rest/heat/stretches.
So, we lounged around, ate lots of seafood, walked on the beach & drove to Appalachicola, FL (easy 20 minute drive) to putter around the shops & have lunch there, on the bay.
TBI is pristinely clean & attractive. Trish offers great breakfasts & even shared her entree recipes. She suggested we rent a kayak & gave us the name of a company, but I really wasn't sure my back was up for it, so we skipped it. We didn't avail ourselves to the multitude of DVD's, board games, or hot tub she has available.
But, we did enjoy seeing several porpoises directly from our bedroom window each morning. On Saturday, there were several boats in that same area & DH saw one guy pull a really huge fish out of the water 3-4 times, but ultimately it got off.
The area is a protected sea turtle hatching area, so lights out at 9PM, which seemed to coincide with the darkness of sundown.
I was surprised though, that they allow driving on the beach & several people did just that! The sand there is much more compact than the sugary soft white sand beaches I'm used to, so it really wasn't a problem. Much easier to walk on too!
Restaurants (There aren't many choices.)
Loggerhead Grill: We ate here Friday night. This is in what appears to be a renovated house. Outside somewhat campy, inside had some extra touches to make it a bit nice, but small. Chris was a very attentive waiter. He brought us a generous amount of bread, hummus, & Russian dipping Oil, though neither of us really enjoyed it. I ordered the Lobster Paella & Chardonnay, while DH had a Seafood Platter. Both were very good! Wait time was average, not excessive.
Boss Oyster Bar: This is a local hang out in Appalach right on the bay where we had lunch on Saturday. It was actually our second time & both experiences have been pleasant ones. The first time we ate by the water, but today, we chose inside where it was cool!
I had the oyster basket (fried) with slaw & cheese grits. DH got a dozen on the half shell & a small bowl of gumbo. We both had a Chi-Chi (on special that day $4.50). They make good drinks, but the water at this restaurant has a weird after taste, so get bottled.
Though I like the place, they could do better about timing the food. DH was finished with his oysters by the time I was served. If I recall correctly, this happened with different dishes the previous time we were there. However, if in the area, I'd definitely go again! http://www.apalachicolariverinn.com/boss.html
Indian Pass Raw Bar: The sun bleached sign faintly reads Indian Pass Trading Post. I believe there used to be a smaller sign hanging down from this saying "Raw Bar", but it's no longer there. As Starr's says, this place is within walking distance of TBI but we found yellow flies hang out in those trees, so we drove.
This place is really laid back (but busy). Long plastic picnic tables/chairs or the bar where you can see them cooking everything. A very small menu - and it's on the wall behind the bar. Cooler in the back - you get your own beer, soda or individual serving sized bottle of wine. "We're on the honor system - you won't get a check."
http://www.indianpassrawbar.com/
We ordered a dozen crab meat stuffed shrimp & a dozen baked oysters (cheese etc.), and a bowl of gumbo & we shared everything. I had a couple bottles of chardonnay & DH a couple bottles of cranberry juice. It was really good.
I almost never let myself indulge in butter or bread & definite limit the two together. However, the huge metal platters these are cooked/served on also held two slices of 'texas toast' type bread. It was loaded with butter & mixed with the juices of the food it was cooked beside. I did enjoy this indulgence!!!
We met some interesting people who shared the table with us. By happenstance, the lady was another PT, her DH was very interested in hunting & AL football which pleased my DH no end, and their host was a Medical Illustrator, which I find very interesting. I can't say I've met one before. I googled his name (as he said I could) & am impressed with his work.
Though we didn't get to go scalloping, it was, a nice, relaxing weekend trip.
Thank you, starrs for the recommendation ot this trip!
We took a little trip to Florida's Forgotten Coast July 18th - 20th - a weekend trip.
We spent two nights at Turtle Beach Inn B&B which is beach front at Indian Pass. This is east of Port St. Joe & just past Cape San Blas, FL.
http://www.turtlebeachinn.com/index.htm
The area really does appear 'forgotten' as there are very few people there on the expansive beach. The B&B had 4 couples staying there at that time. One was a young couple from Indiana scouting for a future beach wedding site, one was celebrating their 25th anniversary (a gift from their daughter), and the other was two ladies who appeared to be have a reunion of friendship - girls weekend out sort of thing (they talked constantly comparing their families/children/spouses - the way best friends who haven't seen each other in a while tend to do).
The main purpose of this trip was to tick off another 1st - snorkeling for scallops. I've never done it, but have a friend who goes several times a year down around Crystal River, FL. She has family there. She always comes back raving about how much fun it was, and really got my curiosity up.
TBI was featured on Good Morning America (TV) several years ago & I'd bookmarked it. Then, last year, Starrsville wrote her TR about how great it (and Trish, who runs it) is.
I got to thinking I may be in a bit of a rut, always going to the same beach year after year (Perdido & Orange Beach, AL) & there's no scalloping there, so we decided to venture out & try something new.
I made the TBI reservations well in advance. They recommend Seahorse Water Safaris for a guided scallop trip & DH thought it best we go guided the first time, rather than renting a boat & going on our on. We'd hoped to get the lay of the (land) bay & how to manuver & learn exactly what it was all about.
About a week before going, I made the SWS reservations. On the way down, we stopped by the marina to see exactly where we'd need to be the next AM. Julia checked the book & says "Oh... right now, you are the only two people on the boat, and we require six. It being Friday night, someone will probably come in from the popular restaurant behind us & sign up tonight. We'll call you by 7PM to let you know."
Yep, the call comes, & we're the only ones, so it got canceled.
Though I was disappointed, it may have been for the best. My back had flared up a week or so prior & was not calming down the way it normally does with rest/heat/stretches.
So, we lounged around, ate lots of seafood, walked on the beach & drove to Appalachicola, FL (easy 20 minute drive) to putter around the shops & have lunch there, on the bay.
TBI is pristinely clean & attractive. Trish offers great breakfasts & even shared her entree recipes. She suggested we rent a kayak & gave us the name of a company, but I really wasn't sure my back was up for it, so we skipped it. We didn't avail ourselves to the multitude of DVD's, board games, or hot tub she has available.
But, we did enjoy seeing several porpoises directly from our bedroom window each morning. On Saturday, there were several boats in that same area & DH saw one guy pull a really huge fish out of the water 3-4 times, but ultimately it got off.
The area is a protected sea turtle hatching area, so lights out at 9PM, which seemed to coincide with the darkness of sundown.
I was surprised though, that they allow driving on the beach & several people did just that! The sand there is much more compact than the sugary soft white sand beaches I'm used to, so it really wasn't a problem. Much easier to walk on too!
Restaurants (There aren't many choices.)
Loggerhead Grill: We ate here Friday night. This is in what appears to be a renovated house. Outside somewhat campy, inside had some extra touches to make it a bit nice, but small. Chris was a very attentive waiter. He brought us a generous amount of bread, hummus, & Russian dipping Oil, though neither of us really enjoyed it. I ordered the Lobster Paella & Chardonnay, while DH had a Seafood Platter. Both were very good! Wait time was average, not excessive.
Boss Oyster Bar: This is a local hang out in Appalach right on the bay where we had lunch on Saturday. It was actually our second time & both experiences have been pleasant ones. The first time we ate by the water, but today, we chose inside where it was cool!
I had the oyster basket (fried) with slaw & cheese grits. DH got a dozen on the half shell & a small bowl of gumbo. We both had a Chi-Chi (on special that day $4.50). They make good drinks, but the water at this restaurant has a weird after taste, so get bottled.
Though I like the place, they could do better about timing the food. DH was finished with his oysters by the time I was served. If I recall correctly, this happened with different dishes the previous time we were there. However, if in the area, I'd definitely go again! http://www.apalachicolariverinn.com/boss.html
Indian Pass Raw Bar: The sun bleached sign faintly reads Indian Pass Trading Post. I believe there used to be a smaller sign hanging down from this saying "Raw Bar", but it's no longer there. As Starr's says, this place is within walking distance of TBI but we found yellow flies hang out in those trees, so we drove.
This place is really laid back (but busy). Long plastic picnic tables/chairs or the bar where you can see them cooking everything. A very small menu - and it's on the wall behind the bar. Cooler in the back - you get your own beer, soda or individual serving sized bottle of wine. "We're on the honor system - you won't get a check."
http://www.indianpassrawbar.com/
We ordered a dozen crab meat stuffed shrimp & a dozen baked oysters (cheese etc.), and a bowl of gumbo & we shared everything. I had a couple bottles of chardonnay & DH a couple bottles of cranberry juice. It was really good.
I almost never let myself indulge in butter or bread & definite limit the two together. However, the huge metal platters these are cooked/served on also held two slices of 'texas toast' type bread. It was loaded with butter & mixed with the juices of the food it was cooked beside. I did enjoy this indulgence!!!
We met some interesting people who shared the table with us. By happenstance, the lady was another PT, her DH was very interested in hunting & AL football which pleased my DH no end, and their host was a Medical Illustrator, which I find very interesting. I can't say I've met one before. I googled his name (as he said I could) & am impressed with his work.
Though we didn't get to go scalloping, it was, a nice, relaxing weekend trip.
Thank you, starrs for the recommendation ot this trip!
Sep 23rd, 2008, 06:25 AM
#8
Hey osb, I completely missed your trip report on here. Sounds like y'all had a great time. Friends often just rent a pontoon boat and spend the day on the bay and got DIY lessons for scalloping. Basically dig in the reeds for scallops and put them in the net. I haven't done it though either. Next summer...scalloping!
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