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Denali, to do or not to do?

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Denali, to do or not to do?

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Old Jan 18th, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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Denali, to do or not to do?

Hello again. I was going to wait a while before posting this question but I posted an unrelated topic on Tripadvisor and this issue came up, so I guess I should address it here now too. Here's the question. My impression of Denali NP is that it is mostly about the long bus ride into the park, and though you may see a ton of animals, many are very far away. I am not keen on the idea of a bus ride like that, and Hubby will take alot of convincing. We really love wildlife and scenery, that's why we are coming to Alaska, but to take 2 days out of our trip and then ride the bus all day and maybe only see animals through binoculars was the impression I have of Denali. Plus, frankly, several of the lodge owners, fishing guides, etc, that I spoke to this weekend told me upfront to skip Denali except for the Flightseeing, so they confirmed my thinking. I started asking the people I was calling and no-one said, "don't miss Denali!" We are definitely doing the flightseeing and glacier landing. I guess we learned from our recent trips to Glacier National Park and Yellowstone that even if everyone says we must do something, if it doesn't feel like us, we shouldn't do it cause it doesn't work out well. I was thinking Denali was like that. But if we can do it in a way that works for us, it does seem dumb to come all the way up there and not see it a little. But it will have to be quick, arrival evening, one full day and maybe the next morning, we won't be staying several days and taking the bus multiple times. . What are the differences about Denali, how is is very different than the terrain and atmosphere on Kenai? Will I really miss a unique experience by not driving into the park, if we do the flightseeing and bear viewing and fishing and maybe wilderness lodges on the Kenai Penninsula? Thanks so much for the advice.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010 | 10:03 AM
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The only info I have is that my sisters and B-I-L went to Alaska and drove into Denali Park. They said it was great because they were able to see the peak of Denali. This is very unusual because it is mostly in the clouds.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010 | 10:15 AM
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"My impression of Denali NP is that it is mostly about the long bus ride into the park, and though you may see a ton of animals, many are very far away."

There is only one long road into the interior of the park and cars (with few exceptions) are prohibited past the first few miles. So your choices are bus or no bus. I have taken a helicopter flight over the park but was not overly impressed. I saw a lot of mountaintops and essentially nothing else.

Regarding the animals, you may see some but there are no guarantees. On both of my trips, I saw animals, some far away and some close. Once we got very lucky when a mother grizzly bear with 3 cubs crossed the road right in front of our (stopped) bus and then scampered down the hill side. You can see a lot in a 6-hour bus tour. There is no need to take multiple bus tours. But...if you detest buses in general - don't do it!

"What are the differences about Denali, how is is very different than the terrain and atmosphere on Kenai?"

Vastly different.

"Will I really miss a unique experience by not driving into the park, if we do the flightseeing and bear viewing and fishing and maybe wilderness lodges on the Kenai Penninsula?"

In my opinion, yes you will miss out.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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My take on this. We spent about 7 days on land prior to Alaska cruise - half Denali, half Seward. Vastly different and if I had to choose one, it would be difficult.

Kenai (we did Seward) - authentic coastal fishing town with glaciers nearby. Great place to take a day cruise to see glaciers, see creatures, etc. Almost guaranteed whales, dolphins, otters and mammals on shorelines. Marine wildlife museum. Feels like Alaska. We were there a week before summer solstice so it was cool to be able to walk in daylight at 11 PM.

Denali - about a 6-8 hour drive from Anchorage if you stop along way Talkeetna for lunch and hopefully a view of Denali. And you get to see Wasilla, AK - home to Sarah Palin (it is a wide spot in the road with 2 supermarkets, a few fastfood places, and a lot of liquor stores and coffee shops). The ride into Denali is not much different than you imagine - plus much of it is on a dirt road along terrifying cliffs if you have a height thing. We saw mom and baby moose close up, grizzly bears sleeping on the road - and a lot more animals in the distance.I found the ride unpleasant, at times terrifying, somewhat boring - but I would not have missed it for the world. I figure I will likely never be back in that part of the world, so I wanted to experience it. Just the vast openness of it all was worth it. We had a good view of Denali much of the day - so that helped. The bus in and out was 13 hours - we took the longest tour that included a stop at the farthest interior part of the park accessible by road. Really feels like Alaska. Also good place to do a whitewater rafting thing, eat a lot of salmon. And try to imagine who would actually live there.

Two vastly different experiences.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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If you are short on time, there is more to see and do between Anchorage and the KP. The Seward side of the KP is very mountainous but the other side is much flatter, more marshy areas so a good chance of seeing moose. Seward is beautiful as Gail described. You will probably see otters playing in the marine. There's even an oceanside campground. Kenai and Soldotna tend to be more suburban small towns although in a pretty area (but not as spectacular pretty as Seward). Homer down at the end of the road was one of my favorite places, very artsy but also a popular fishing town. Spectacular view from the hwy before you get into town.
It's a loooong road to Denali. Wasilla is about an hour north of Anchorage. There's quite a bit of suburban sprawl on the north side of Anchorage with lots of commuting. Wasilla is one of the last places you'll see a big supermarket and restaurants until you get to Talkeetna which is an original AK town with a small local population. Except for, if you're lucky, a great view of Denali as you drive north, there's not much else to see. Things are much more isolated in this area. When we stayed at some log cabins near Talkeetna we were warned to be on the watch for bears and moose.
You can take other flightseeing trips from Anchorage, Kenai or Homer. We did an overnight in Seldovia across the bay from Homer. Nature cruise over. Flightseeing back over a glacier. It was a short flight but fun.
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Old Jan 19th, 2010 | 05:54 AM
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I looked more throughly at the NPS website and got better oriented to Denali, got feedback from some more people and also I spoke with Fly Denali today and spoke to a very nice woman, she explained the logic of going into Denali after Talkeetna and taking a flightseeing tour from there if we get washed out on our first flight day in Talkeetna. She also advised just doing as much of Denali as we want, she said even if it's just the first 15 miles it's worthwhile, there seem to be some nice short hikes like Horseshoe lake, Healy and Savage river, or taking the bus just as far as we want and then turning around. It all makes sense and I would feel really silly getting as far as Talkeetna and not even setting foot in Denali, especially if it is such a different experience than Kenai Penninsula. I spoke to hubby and we are at this point planning to add a short visit to Denali, an evening, one full day, and morning, and we will at least see some of the park. We may, or may not, have to skip Prince William Sound glacier cruise to do that, but we are taking the day long Kenai Fjords cruise so maybe that's okay. Thanks as always for the advice, I think this will work out well.
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