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Crazy's Big Island - with a splash of Maui - trip report

Crazy's Big Island - with a splash of Maui - trip report

Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:31 AM
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Crazy's Big Island - with a splash of Maui - trip report

We just got back last night from our much anticipated vacation to the Big Island and Maui. The first part of our trip was go-go-go and the second part primarily for relaxation.

Things I did right: We loved our accommodations. Each one was perfect for us and the area in which we were staying. Both our detailed itinerary and our willingness to alter it as needed was crucial for our family. If I don't have an itinerary, my family will gladly do almost nothing. If I'm not willing to alter it as everyone becomes tired, then I have crankiness - and perhaps outright mutiny - on my hands! Lastly, we stopped overnight in San Diego going and coming. Although it prolongs the travel part of the trip, none of us experienced any jet lag as a result and I'm up this morning at my usual Little Rock time feeling GOOOOD...

Things I did wrong: Overpacked. Should have rented snorkel gear (only went once) and could have borrowed flashlights at our B&B. Didn't need rainjackets or walkie talkies. (No, I was never a girl scout...LOL.)

Things I learned the hard way: The Big Island is BIG. No matter how well you plan or how many maps you study, it will take longer to get everywhere on your itinerary than you thought it would. Driving around the island - even splitting it into two days - will make for some hard, tiring drives. Number Two - doing the Kilauea Iki hike AND hiking out to see the lava flow on the same day/night is difficult IF you combine it with any other touring at VNP.

Now for my trip report which I will break up into days:

Arrival Day Friday May 26 -

Hawaiian Airlines was a joy! Their customer service and new DigEPlayers (portable entertainment devices with preprogrammed shows and movies) for only $15. (two people can use) was great! Thrifty was fine. - I recommend purchasing the gas fill option as it saves time and costs about the same as you filling it up yourself before returning.

We arrived about 1:30 and made our way to Hapuna Beach Prince Resort. I was prepared for the barren wasteland of the drive and enjoyed seeing the "rock graffiti" and wild goats here and there. We stopped at the King's Shops for some cocktail supplies on the way. Let me say that I LOVED the HBPR. It is tranquil, beautiful, and located on the most beautiful beach I have seen in Hawaii. We had booked the ocean view room, which is what we got, and we were pleased with it. Our daughter enjoyed the large infinity pool while my husband and I made use of our cocktail supplies. Then we went to dinner at the Ocean Grille about 6 pm. They did not offer us the early bird menu and I failed to ask for it - so our meal was expensive but good. Two of us had "Fish Three Ways" and one of us had the grilled ono. The setting was lovely. We opted to sit inside by the open window, which we preferred to actually being outside on the terrace. We enjoyed the sunset and walked on the beach. To our horror, there were man-of-war jellyfish everywhere; but the problem had totally resolved the next day and for the remainder of our stay... To bed tired by 9 pm.

Horseback day Saturday May 27 -

Today was planned around our trail ride through Waipio Valley with Na'alapa Stables. My daughter and I were up by 5:30 and out on the beach to enjoy the sunrise and play in the sand a bit. Then we all had breakfast at the resort, which was included in our room. (The buffet selections were good and an omelet station was set up each morning. There was little variation, and we were tired of it by the time we checked out. The setting is lovely in a terrace overlooking the oceant and the service was always exemplary.) After enjoying the pool for a couple of hours, it was time to dry off and make our way to the Waipio Valley. We arrived at the designated location - Waipio Valley Artworks - and ate an okay sandwich while waiting for the tour folks. When the tour guide arrived, he walked up to me and said, "I'll need your credit card." He was decidedly unfriendly and my husband felt uneasy leaving us with him (as he had not booked the ride with us). I have to say that the guide thawed very little and certainly did not tell us anything about the valley or its history. He just instructed us and the other family about how to guide the horses - rather curtly - and had little else to say the entire time. There was another guide (this one Hawaiian) who was much friendlier, but we had little interaction with him. Nonetheless, the ride was fun and the cool misty Waipio Valley beautiful. My spirited horse wanted to bite everyone else's or eat the whole time. His name was Ki'ilawe. My daughter's horse was slow and lazy (and she's the good rider!) and his name was Dexter. I tipped our guides handsomely and noticed a bit of a thaw. Our main guide was one of those haole hippie types who actually live in the valley - and that may explain a lot. He told me a bit about hunting and cleaning wild boar on the steep way out of the valley - so I felt better about him in the long run. We met back up with my husband, who had enjoyed the Western Days Festival at Honoka'a during out absence, and headed back to the resort. We cleaned up for the clambake next door at the Mauna Kea Resort. The setting was lovely (right on the beach with the sun setting over the ocean) - but I have to say that I like the beach and resort better at HBPR. To say a bit about the clambake itself, my husband and I enjoyed it. There was little else at the buffet other than lobster, though. These were served WHOLE - split down the middle with guts and all visible. When plated, it made for a souply green mess. My daughter was pretty much rendered appetite-free, but DH and I managed to eat two lobsters, laughing and enjoying ourselves. Afterward, I walked up to Manta Ray Point while my family relaxed on the beach. No luck with rays but I enjoyed the walk. Then back to our resort.

Mauna Kea Day - Sunday, May 27

Beach, breakfast, pool again this morning. My daughter and I snorkeled at the cove there at Hapuna Beach and saw quite a variety of beautiful fish near the rocks! Lunch at the poolside cafe was good, especially the fish sandwich. They had a pretty extensive menu, including curry, which my husband enjoyed. We met our Mauna Kea Summit Adventure guide at the Starbucks at the King's Shops at 3:55 pm. This tour was over-the-top fantastic and worth every penny. We were in custom vans (two) with comfortable seats and large windows. The guides - ours was Gordon and Chaz was the other - were so informative and enthusiastic about the history, geography, and astronomy of the island. We would not have learned nearly as much from taking ourselves on this trip and thank Kane, Pele, and Lono we did not have to make this drive ourselves! On the way up we saw one of those adorable daytime owls and lots of interesting geography as the guide talked to us about history and what we were seeing. After a meal (not bad) at the Visitor's Center, we were on our way up! No time for even visiting the gift shop. Well, the top was breath-taking! Seeing those amazing scopes up close, especially as they open and rotate, was incredible. The sunset was a TEN - the colors as the sun dipped beneath the sea of clouds put tears in all of our eyes, including the guides' who did not rush us at all. Just take it all in - no matter if it keeps us here late, they said. We could see the top of Haleakala poking up in the distance. My husband took over 120 pictures! Decending down to the visitor's center and crossing the street to stargaze through the company's impressive 9 inch scopes was almost anticlimactic. Seeing the Southern Cross and 11 of the 12 constellations was amazing. Through the scopes, we saw Saturn, Jupitor, the Sombrero Constellation, a globular cluster, and some other things. (I'll quiz my husband when he gets up and give you a better list.) It was windy out there and we were getting pretty tired. I would not have enjoyed making that long, dark drive home myself. We collapsed into bed at our resort after 11 pm sometime.

On Monday, May 28, we left Hapuna Beach and made our way over to Volcano Village... I'll take a break and tell you about that part of our Big Island adventure a bit later.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:46 AM
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Sorry about the typos. I tried to correct them but the edit feature of Fodor's is not cooperating with me this morning...
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 09:26 AM
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My family was pretty wiped out from the late night before, so we slept in a little bit, had breakfast at our usual buffet, and headed out about 10 am. Instead of going across directly through Waimea and then on to Volcano Village, we took the coastal drive up through northern Kohala to the Pololu Lookout. The drive is quite spectacular and the lookout was breathtaking. Quite a few people were up there and parking was a challenge. We were wise to park early and walk a bit - made departure later much easier. This valley is more "compact" than Waipio and, in some ways, more spectacular-looking from above. We did not hike down, as we had a FULL day planned. On the way back, we bought expensive but delicious mac nuts at a roadside stand and stopped in lovely Kapa'au for ice cream and shopping. They were working on the King K statue, probably for his upcoming special day, so we took pictures of him with scaffolding all around and again after they took it down. There is a wonderful bookstore in town which we enjoyed exploring (and made a couple of purchases). We also enjoyed driving through Hawi - but didn't stop - before heading down the Kohala Mtn. Road to Waimea. I must say that going down this road provided us with some great views, both back towards Maui, and ahead as we descended through lovely pasture land. We breezed through Waimea, drove briefly through Honoka'a so my husband could show us where he had enjoyed the festival, and then headed down the Hamakua Coast. Oh, we stopped at Tex's for lunch. I must say that I did not love malasadas. They are much denser and less sweet than donuts - heavy! We had to wait a long time for our fish sandwiches but they were very good. At this point we were really behind schedule for our 5 pm check-in at our B&B in VV, so had to fly down the coast. The traffic was terrible and everyone was going much faster than the stated speed limit. We were not able to stop at Lapoepoe OR make the Onomea Bay Scenic Drive with Donkey Trail hike. Itinerary bites the dust already. I did insist that we stop at Akaka Falls, which was pretty neat. The walk through the rain forest and the culmination at the spectacular falls was well worth it. We sort of raced through, which was good since we had failed to use the insect repellant we brought for that very purpose. The parking lot was crowded and we didn't experience any fear about our car being broken into (and it wasn't). We passed on through Hilo - beautiful sunny day there - and proceeded on to My Island B&B, making it there about five minutes before the time we had promised to arrive. Mr. Gordon Morse, the charming author and proprietor of our B&B, checked us in at the main house and gave us directions to our house as well as an overview of the area complete with written materials (excerpts from his book). Our drive to the Forest House was short, and we immediately loved this immaculate little house nestled among the ohia ferns in a semi-landscaped rainforest setting. We were able to really spread out and get comfortable there. The huge windows in every room slid open to let in the cool air and the sounds of the many happy birds. At this point we decided we needed to rest awhile and enjoy a cocktail so we called Kilauea Lodge to see if they would change our reservations from 6:00 pm to 7:30 - no problem. Our dinner there was very good, the restaurant cozy and attractive, the service attentive. Between us, we had rabbit, ostrich, and Parker Ranch beef - all good. The ostrich had been pounded and fried, tasted mainly like chicken fried steak - probably the least impressive entree' of the three. Both of the soups of the day, included beforehand, were GREAT. (One was a consomme' vegetable type thing and the other was an Indian curry type soup.) Then home to bed as tomorrow would be a big hiking day. Our queen bed and our daughter's single bed were all in one big bedroom. There's another lovely bedroom but our daughter was not about to leave our presence in this strange new place.

Volcano National Park day - Tuesday, May 29

Up and over to breakfast at the main house about 7am. Mr. Morse is a cheerful person and encouraged conversation among the guests. A family there told us a little about their hike to the lava the night before and we received a great recommendation for lunch. Breakfast was simple - fruit and pastries, boiled eggs, toast or bagels. It was plenty and we enjoyed the company. FIRST - and this was a good thing - we did the Kilauea Iki hike and loved it. It's about four miles and not easy but just one of the neatest things you'll ever do. We went the recommended counterclockwise way and were amazed to see how many people did it the other way. First you descend along a steep trail through rainforest and then make your away across a barren crater floor of first a'a then pahoehoe type lava. Starting about halfway across you begin to encounter significant steaming vents and finally you climb up the opposite wall through rainforest again. By now you're tired and the counterclockwise route provides you with a more gradual upward hike at the end. Unfortunately, my daughter sprained her ankle running through the rainforest at the beginning of our hike (don't do it) and had to limp the remaining three miles. She's a real trooper and did not complain at all - wanted to go forward rather than climb back up and actually had rehabbed her ankle pretty well by the end...LOL. We were tired enough after this hike that we skipped the Thurston Lava Tube - goodbye itinerary - and headed over to lunch at the golf course clubhouse about one mile past the turn-in to VNP. Great decision. Very few diners, excellent food and service, reasonable prices. We had the kahlua pork with cabbage and rice, loco moco, and fried mahi mahi with mashed potatoes - all very good. Next we drove around Crater Rim Drive, stopping occasionally for short lookout hikes, and skipped Thurston Lava Tube AGAIN (woe is me). Then to our little house for some R&R. Enjoyed the television and a chance to edit some of our pictures from the trip so far. As 5 pm began to draw near and my family steadfastly complained of being too tired to hike any more, I became increasingly panicky about missing the sight of lava actually creating the Big Island in front of our very eyes! My emotional pleas won out and off we went. My kind husband dropped us off at the turn-around place and went to park about a 1/2 mile away. At this point, I realized that our flashlights were very weak and that my husband had NOT dressed appropriately for the hike. Oh well, off we went. The walk was not difficult - mainly pahoepahoe lava or large smooth chunks, and only about 1/4 mile to the area where most people were congregating. We actually had a great view of the steam plume and felt no need to hike any closer as there's no way to get really close to the flow right now. I felt very privileged sitting there in that community of people that had traveled so far to see this remarkable creation. As it got to be dusk, we began to appreciate the glow of the plume and to actually see the streams of lava pouring into the water. The rangers did not set up telescopes on this night, but I had brought some binoculars which we enjoyed. Regretfully, we finally tore ourselves away and walked back to the car before full dark - no need for our flashlights after all. It was dark and a little foggy on the drive back - a little scary - but we made it fine. Stopped in at Thai Thai for some takeout. The tum kha kai was the most delicious I've ever had and our daughter enjoyed her pad thai. My husband got the hot version of the tum kha - against the advice of our waiter - and thoroughly enjoyed it. It was one of our best meals of the trip and we went to bed happy to the sound of gentle rain on the ohia leaves outside our window.

Southern route drive day - Wednesday, May 30

On this morning, we ate our Thai leftovers and slowly packed. Felt a little guilty about not heading over to visit with Gordon and company over breakfast. We did some laundry and tried to leave the kitchen and remainder of the house as nice as we had found it. Then we backtracked and headed into Hilo for the famous Farmer's Market. (First we did manage to visit Rainbow Falls which was very cool - especially the cave beneath it!) Then we headed downtown and parked and shopped our way down to the actual market area, which was hopping. It was another lovely sunny day in Hilo (Can you believe it?) and hot. We bought a number of neat things. My favorite purchase was some beaded earrings, complete with tiny owls on them, handmade by an interesting European lady who "channels" her ancestors as inspiration for her jewelry. After my husband forcibly removed me from her talkative company I sought out and purchased the single best food item I sampled the ENTIRE trip - a $2. peruvian tamale. It was so much more juicy and flavorful than the the Mexican style tamales we have here. I wish I had eaten more but knew that we had lunch plans at Cafe 100. This is a landmark place with an interesting history and about ten varieties of loco moco - but the loco moco was only okay. (The patty tasted like it had been frozen and the egg white was way undercooked.) Next we headed out of HIlo and on our way south back past VNP. We stopped at the Punalu'u Black Sand Beach - actually turning in at the locals portion, rather than the official tourist area. The sand is shiny and silky, just beautiful! To my embarassment, I accidentally photographed a couple of young surfers while shooting the beach and apologized. They laughed and began to pose for me. "Want some real Hawaiians in those photos?" they asked. Then we pressed on and drove through the cute towns of Na'alehu and Waihinu. I thought about my reading on Mark Twain's travels through this area and stopped to admire the monkey pod tree he planted, now at the edge of a macadamia nut grove. By this time, it was getting late again and we were tired of driving. It seemed like it took FOREVER to get to the Place of Refuge, our last stop on the way to Keauhou. We had been here before and did not spend a ton of time but managed to walk around and take in the unique ambience of this special place. We took a back way to the main highway again to find an amazing amount of traffic moving in both directions! Another interminable amount of time before we reached the Outrigger about 5 pm or so. Check in was easy and we arrived to the breathtaking views from our 7th floor oceanfront room - right over the tidepools. Watching the turtles below was just magical. My daughter and I explored the tidepools and the grounds and then returned to the room to watch a beautiful sunset with my husband from our lanai. Dinner was appetizers down in the main restaurant. Pretty good. They were having keiki hula in the lounge area which we briefly stopped to enjoy and then back to our room for bed.

Departure for Maui day - Wednesday, May 31

We had breakfast in the main restaurant, buffet-style. I had booked a room through bookit.com that included this feature but the management gave me a little trouble over it. Glad I had saved my paperwork! We checked out and headed toward the airport, making a couple of stops along the way. My husband stopped at a wood supply place to purchase koa siding for a coffee shop he is opening and to check out some nice pieces for guitars that he makes. He LOVES koa wood and talking to guys who work with koa wood, so DD and I sat in the car about an hour. We got him back, though. He sat in the car while we took a tour of Kailua Candy Co. complete with samples! Then to the airport for our flight. Kona airport is so cute and has a nice restaurant and gift shop...

In retrospect, the Outrigger is probably the one place I would not stay again, although the tidepools and turtles were great. I was planning to snorkel at Kahulu'u Beach there but it was kind of surfy and murky the one morning I had available. Keauhou and Kona are just not my favorite part of the Big Island. I'm more of a Kohala/Hilo kind of girl, I guess, and would divide my time between these two areas in the future.

Next, our R&R time in Maui...

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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 09:31 AM
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Oops! Sorry about the confusing dates up there. Departure to Maui day was Thursday, June 1! Some of the other dates are a little screwy too, but no matter.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 10:01 AM
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Hi Crazy: Soo glad you are back and I'm really enjoying your report. I'm thrilled that you enjoyed My Island B&B, as we are there later this month, in the Forest House also. Any tips on this place is appreciated. We are also staying at HBP, but our trip is reverse of yours. We begin in Maui, on to My Island and finish at HBP. You mentioned that your husband was not dressed properly for your hike to the lava. Can you tell me what we should wear? I'm guessing good hiking shoes and pants?? Thanks for taking the time to write your trip report. Its great reading. Makes me more excited about our trip, as we leave in 12 days. Looking forward to hearing about your Maui R&R.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 10:37 AM
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Sherrie -

I think you'll really like the Forest House. Be sure and use Gordon as a resource for ANY questions about VNP or Volcano Village. Borrow your flashlights from him rather than hauling your own. Long pants and any closed toe shoes are fine. You might like a light jakcet. The terrain is really not as difficult as I had been led to believe. Fancy hiking shoes that take up a ton of room in your luggage is not necessary IMHO.

DO eat at all of the same places we did!

I took lots of pictures inside and outside the house as there were not many available on the website. Will offer to share them when I get them located...
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 11:13 AM
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Thanks Crazy: I forgot to mention in my other post, we're doing a Waipio horse ride also, but we're going with Waipio on Horseback. I'm looking for recommendations on them, but haven't gotten anything yet. Did you notice other tours in the valley while you were there? Your Mauna Kea Summit Adventure sounded really nice. I don't think I can talk my guys into doing that, but it sounded really great. I'd love to see your pictures when you get a chance to post them. Thanks.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 11:33 AM
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On to Maui -

We took the only direct flight from Kona to Kahului, departure about 1:00 and arrival about 1:30 or so. Hertz was fine - got a red Mustang but it was kind of banged up and stained. (Made sure they knew about it before left the lot...LOL) Maui is the right place for convertibles and BI is the right place for a sedan due to luggage constraints and the amount of driving involved...

We made the familiar drive to the Grand Wailea, and that's when the Upgrade Fairy decided to bless us for the remainder of our trip. Thank you...thank you...thank you! We felt our breath catch and our bodies relax as soon as we entered the gorgeous lobby of the beloved (to us) Grand Wailea. The nice young lady at the desk asked if I was confirmed for a terrace queen-queen room. "Yes," I replied. "Well, I've been authorized to upgrade you to a Napua Suite," she said casually. "ALRIGHHHT!" I exclaimed, astonished. My family had no idea what was transpiring. As the bellman led us to the exclusive Napua Tower elevators and we acended to the gated NIRVANA area of the resort, they began to get the idea. Right before Randy threw open the double doors to our suite, he asked, "Are you ready for this room?" "Bring it on," I said. Well, it was truly spectacular. Large living room with bar and lanai big enough to accommocate a dining table for four and a cushy lounger - overlooking a deluxe OCEAN VIEW. Yeah, baby! And there was a small corridor leading into the huge marble bathroom to the right and the bedroom with its own lanai to the left... I told Randy, "I feel like I've died and gone to the Travel Channel!" He got quite a kick out of that and probably shared it with all of the other bellmen as they seemed to be smiling especially at me when I waltzed in to the lobby in my celebrity sunglasses a bit later. Quite frankly, that room made quite a difference to us during this relaxation phase of our vacation. After oooohing, aaaahing, and doing the victory dance, we headed for the pools. After having a swim, we got ready for our dinner reservation at Humuhumunukunukuapua'a. Last time we had skipped this place because of the bad reviews. This time I gave it a chance, and it was one of the best dining experiences we had this trip. We had a nice view of the sunset, sitting there in our tiki hut floating on the water. The tropical fish below were putting on quite a show. We ALL three had the same thing - starting with lobster bisque and finishing with the surf and turf entree'. Delicious! Perfect! Then it was to our room lanai to enjoy the lovely sunset.

Resort Day - Friday, June 2

We were determined to spend this day relaxing. We reported to the Napua Tower common area for complementary breakfast buffet-style. Then we hit the beach briefly - brrrrr - and then the pools... Those lovely pools were uncrowded, no trouble finding loungers in the sun and shade. We whooshed down the slides and sat in the bar enjoying lava flows and vanilla shakes. The same fun and friendly barkeep from two years ago was there. He obviously loves his job. About 11:30 we had lunch at the poolside grill - very good food - and went to our room to get out of the sun awhile (any excuse to go to that heavenly room). I fell asleep on the lounger listening to the surf while my family watched t.v. When we were ready to venture out, we drove south and visited Big Beach for awhile. HUGE pounding surf was trashing the boogie boarders...fun to watch. Then we reported to Mulligan's for the Wailea Nights ressie I had made months before. The setting, dinner, and show were just as fabulous as before. Barry Flanagin had just received four awards for his last Hapa album "Maui", and Eric Gilliom had just released - along with Willie K - his Barefoot Natives CD on the 25th (at number 11 on Billboard), so spirits were high. We met a nice lady traveling solo who was camping on a beach nearby. Afterward we went up for autographs and then home to our sweet suite. Our view of the sunset was very nice from Mulligan's by the way.

Visit favorite places day - Saturday, June 3

This morning we headed over to Kihei Cafe for one of their great breakfasts. One loco moco and one Eggs Benedict was enough to feed all three of us with some to spare. We were disappointed that Auntie Bunny did not show up to talk story. Next we went into Kahului for the Swap Meet. We enjoyed this even more than the Hilo Farmer's Market. We found a number of little things to purchase for ourselves and others - not much in the way of prepared foods to eat, though. Then we chose an Upcountry drive and decided on Olinda Road (subject of Hapa song). We have been to the summit of Haleakala and the Polipoli area before so this was a good choice. This is a serene loop through beautiful forest country with huge koas and good-smelling eucalyptus trees. Next we stopped in Makawao for lunch at Cassanova's. We had to make three passes before finding a parking spot for this place that Maui Revealed essentially trashed in their review. Very fun and interesting setting... Delicous, fresh, authentically Italian tasting pasta! My husband had his with clams and mine was a medley of delicious tomatoes, mozarella, capers, mushrooms, and pitted Greek olives. It was served with a Caesar's salad and great flat bread. Loved it! Then we visited Paia and the funky store called Mandala that we always check out. Sadly, they had stopped carrying the funky patches that my husband loves to put on his denim jacket. By now the pools were calling us "home" so we made a quick stop by our Maui touchstone - the Iao Valley - and headed Grand Wailea ward. We were 3:30 hitting the pools, which had become somewhat crowded by newcomers, and swam until the slides shut down. We dressed afterward and attended the complimentary cocktail party for the Napua folks. Then we went to our room and ordered from Shaka Pizza so that we could spend our last night enjoying the sunset from our lanai. This is GOOD pizza, and they deliver! I made sure we were totally packed before bed, so that we would not feel rushed to make our sad departure from Maui the next morning...

Departure Day - Sunday, June 4

The Upgrade Fairy strikes again! About thirty minutes before we would have to leave our room for the airport, Hawaiian Airlines called to see if we would be willing to trade our stopover in Honolulu flight for a later Aloha DIRECT flight to San Diego - IN FIRST CLASS. UHHHH...Yeah?! Back to swim in the ocean and the pool for two more glorious hours before departure. Let me tell you, fellow "poor folks", first class matters! We were pampered, fed, and catered to constantly. We had our own fancy menu, complementary drinks, etc. - not to mention wide roomy seats that can actually recline! The rest of our trip was unremarkable, thank goodness, as trips home should always be. BUT it will be difficult to return to my usual station in life after all of that pampering.

Ask any questions you may have about our trip. I researched DAILY for a year or more, because that's part of the fun. I have a pretty large information base for Maui, because that's where I've been the most (no ka oi). I'm sure the Big Island will draw me back to see the things I've missed. And frankly, Hapuna Beach is even more beautiful than Wailea Beach IMO.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 11:41 AM
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Yay, welcome home, Crazy

Great trip report...don't you LOVE Hapuna Beach Resort? We have stayed there twice, and think it's the nicest, quietest resort on the best beach with great snorkeling. Plus, the price is much better than other Hawaiian resorts. Can't wait to read your Maui portion...

We will be in Maui and Kauai this August.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 11:47 AM
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Sherrie -
We did not encounter any other horseback riders in the valley. We did pass a wagon full of tourists who looked kind of packed together and miserable. I tipped my cowboy hat at them and tried to look cool.

BG86-
I did, in fact, LOVE the Hapuna Beach Prince Resort! I'm afraid there's not much to my Maui report this time as we have pretty thoroughly explored it in the past and just wanted to relax in it's supercool vibe this time around...
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 12:06 PM
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Sherrie -
Let me add that the Mauna Kea trip was probably the single most over-the-top amazing once in a lifetime things we did. Followed closely by seeing the lava flow into the ocean. The horseback trip was just fun. Also, I DID NOT want to do the Mauna Kea tour. I was SO afraid it would make me sick - cause me to have a migraine... It didn't and I would recommend it to anyone as a "must do".
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 02:57 PM
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Great trip report. Wonderful writing and details.

I'm glad you enjoyed Thai Thai. Amazing food from an unassuming location. I was impressed that the members of the family fly "home" for spices. No wonder the food is so good on the Pacific Rim!

Do you have a token or something others can rub so the Upgrade Fairy will be as nice to us? Talk about a sweet Suite!

Thanks for such a good report.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 04:53 PM
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Thanks, Starrsville! I wish I did have a token as I usually never get upgrades. I will send good wishes your way in the hopes that your next trip to Hawaii is just as blessed as mine was!
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 05:06 PM
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Wow, what luck with those upgrades. Congratulations to you! DH says the stargazing could be considered so I'm off to research that. Thanks for the great report and encouragement.
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 05:20 PM
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Your suite sounds awesome! Upgrades are the best ever, especially in Hawaii...

Sooo...when you will be going back??
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:14 PM
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GREAT trip report, C4H. Only problem is it's bittersweet to read such things, as I will not be returning this year.
Interesting about your take on restaurant that was poorly reviewed in "Maui Revealed." That's one of the things that drives me nuts about the "Blue Bibles" (NOT, IMHO) --their ability to trash places' (eateries or hotels) reputations with a few words. I'll take your review as indication that Cassanova is a place for next time to feed my Italian food obsession.

Oh, the joy of those upgrades!!!!

Welcome home, and may your wonderful memories keep you happy 'til next time at your "crazy-,making" special places.


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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:42 PM
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AWESOME trip report! Best I've read on Fodors.

We're headed to Hawaii in November, and I have no idea if we'll go to BI or Maui yet. We're just waiting to see what sales start to get advertised. I'd love to stay in a B&B like My Island.

Three questions: 1) For semi-budget young couple travelers, would you recommend the B&B or Hapuna Beach?

2) Did you stay on a few different places on the BI b/c it's so big and you wanted to be able to check out the various sections thoroughly?

3) Which ocean water was warmest? The water on Big Island or Maui?

Thank you and pretty please post pics!!

lynne
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:43 PM
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Hey, Calinurse! I'm sorry you'll not be getting back this year. Me neither. In fact, BG86, it will be at least a couple of years before I can return to my beloved Hawaii...

Next time, I'm thinking Maui - and either Molokai, the Big Island for those things I missed, or Oahu! The time to start planning is NOW!!!
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:45 PM
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Lynne -

You must stay at Hapuna AND a Volcano B&B. There's just no way to effectively tour the Big Island without staying on both sides...

I don't mind moving around but would probably just choose the above two for a do-over. Flying into Kona and out of Hilo would be a good option.

The water was about the same temp. both places. I'm a big wimp and did not find it to be too cold for swimming. One day at Wailea was a little BRRRR but the next was great!
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Old Jun 6th, 2006, 06:56 PM
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Thanks, Crazy! I'm a big wimp, too! We honeymooned in Tahiti and I actually took issue with the common declaration that the lagoon is like bath water! Not MY bathwater
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