Charleston, SC and up the coast, sort of
Jun 27th, 2011, 03:18 PM
#22
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Appreciate your taking the time to do a trip report. Hubby and I are thinking of taking a trip in that area in Sept. Your report is swaying me to think it's a good idea. You seem to travel much like we do.....
Jun 27th, 2011, 06:37 PM
#23
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>
It is interesting that you say that Minnlake. We do not overplan. Sometimes we go just by our instincts and impulse. Do we get to see all of the "must see" sights? Most often not. For us, travel is all about the journey - the adventure of discovery. We all start out with pictures in our head, often from brochures, guide books and TV of what a place is like and what to do. How often does the reality match our notions? It is not that it is not as good, but usually it is different to some degree and almost always there is more. Exploring those differences is the fun - the small discoveries are what make a trip for us - our first scoop of Mayfield Ice cream fits that as well as turning a street corner in Rome and seeing something wonderful that we had no idea was there. Learning something new and unexpected makes for a great travel day. The experience of not only what we see and do, but also the people that we meet. DW has a real talent for making acquaintances and that enriches any journey.
Washington, NC fits perfectly into that mold. But, it is getting late and I will explain tomorrow.
It is interesting that you say that Minnlake. We do not overplan. Sometimes we go just by our instincts and impulse. Do we get to see all of the "must see" sights? Most often not. For us, travel is all about the journey - the adventure of discovery. We all start out with pictures in our head, often from brochures, guide books and TV of what a place is like and what to do. How often does the reality match our notions? It is not that it is not as good, but usually it is different to some degree and almost always there is more. Exploring those differences is the fun - the small discoveries are what make a trip for us - our first scoop of Mayfield Ice cream fits that as well as turning a street corner in Rome and seeing something wonderful that we had no idea was there. Learning something new and unexpected makes for a great travel day. The experience of not only what we see and do, but also the people that we meet. DW has a real talent for making acquaintances and that enriches any journey.
Washington, NC fits perfectly into that mold. But, it is getting late and I will explain tomorrow.
Jun 28th, 2011, 04:42 AM
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Exactly, basingstoke2. Many of the terrific travel experiences we have had are from talking to locals upon arrival at a given spot and, sort of, "picking their brains". Not to mention the sheer enjoyment and experience gained by meeting new people from other areas of the country and world -learning cultural differences, viewpoints, etc. over a cup of coffee, a glass of vino, and/or a random encounter 
. Often taking the road less traveled leads to these sort of experiences....i.e get off the freeway and take a chance of staying and dining away from the national or regional franchises and chain-type businesses.
Look forward to your next report. We usually travel west vs. east - but your words are convincing.....
. Often taking the road less traveled leads to these sort of experiences....i.e get off the freeway and take a chance of staying and dining away from the national or regional franchises and chain-type businesses.Look forward to your next report. We usually travel west vs. east - but your words are convincing.....
Jun 28th, 2011, 05:33 AM
#25
Mayfield, a wonderful southern treat
http://www.mayfielddairy.com/
Although it's almost sacrilege to BUY iced tea, buying Mayfield's makes it seem less wrong
Great trip report.
http://www.mayfielddairy.com/
Although it's almost sacrilege to BUY iced tea, buying Mayfield's makes it seem less wrong
Great trip report.
Jun 28th, 2011, 06:09 AM
#26
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>
That is so right. When I think back to our best trips they all had that element. When I was in graduate school, my two best friends and I all were laid off from our summer jobs at about the same time and still had most of the summer to go. We decided to drive up north from NYC taking whichever road was closest to the water and see how far north we could get before having to turn back, camping along the way. We ended up going around Canada's Gaspe Peninsula and the adventures we had on the way could be the subject of another very retrospective TR. Another time, DW, our then only son age 10 and I were on our first trip to Italy. We had the entire day to drive from Florence to Venice so decided to just head in the general dirction exploring side roads. Come lunchtime (I've told this story here before, so skip it if you like) we were in a very small town and saw what seemed to be a little restaurant. We stopped and went in - it was a family run place. Pop was at the counter, mom was cooking and daughter was the server although the place was empty. Daughter came to take our order and we asked with the help of a dictionary and phrase book to just bring whatever they thought to be good for lunch. She got pop who confirmed that and engaged in an animated converstation with mom and then sent daughter out. She returned shortly with their extended family, tables pushed together, mom cooking up a storm and we were served family style with the one family member who spoke English interpreting for all. As the only Americans to visit the restaurant in many years we were not customers but honored guests. That was the day we fell in love with Italy. BTW it was the best Italian meal we have ever had.
But I digress, so lets get back to Washington, NC. After a stop in New Bern (thank you Ira)where we visited the old governor's mansion and as obvious out of towners were interviewed for a program later that day - we explored the historic area and headed on to Washington, NC, part of NC's Inner Banks.
This is a place that was nothing like the pictures we had in our minds. What we were thinking of was beautiful tree lined streets, flowering lawns in front of historic homes, quaint shops - you get the picture, New Bern was closer to that. What we found was a small town that perhaps had seen better days. Maybe just a bit run-down or a better description would be not kept up for the tourists. It has a long Main Street, a small estuary museum, and a walk along the water. A place not exactly on the beaten tourist path. There were other tourists there I know because at several places we visited, mention was made of a family visiting from Oklahoma. Our B&B, the Moss House, in a home dating back to 1902 was lovely on a side street across from the library, but otherwise backing on one of the more trafficed streets although noise was not a problem. I very much recommend the place not only for its rooms and furnishings but also for its friendly hosts. Our room was the Estuary room and it was very nice. The nicest room there is the Anchorage. A nice touch is a small chalk board outide each room with the guests first names as well as a similar welcoming sign at the house's rear entrance where there is off street parking.
After getting over our initial "is this all it is" impression we began to walk around, or more precisely, take a stroll down Main St. What we found among the usual shops were several artists cooperatives that we did not expect, one especially showing the works of painters, photographers, potters, hand painted fabrics, etc. The work mostly of high quality, and much of it unusual. Now, we had been looking for something to bring back to our sons - daughter had already been taken care of in Charleston - but we had not found the "just right" gift. In the cooperative we found them. One was a very unusual and perhaps grotesque jug by Ben Watford. It is of a voodoo style and the type of jug that was used to mark the graves of slaves who were not allowed to have tombstones. Its grotesque features were meant to keep the devil away. It is also corked so that if one feels an evil spirit is about, just take out the cork, the spirit will enter and then cork it back up. Number 2 son goes for that kind of thing, and he was delighted to get it. We also found an absolutely beautifully crafted by a local potter (last name of Dee or Lee)ceramic platter patterned after an angel fish. Just right for #1 son and DIL whose home has an aquarium in most every room.
In the afternoon we drove the short distance to Bath, NC's oldest town and purported haunt of Blackbeard. Bath was as we thought it would be and fit the picture that we originally had of Washington,sans quaint shops and smaller.
Again comes an unexpected delight. At the art cooperative, we were told that night, a local blue grass organization will be having their weekly, open to the public, get together in the gallery's back room. Something to put on our must do list to finish the day. After a fine dinner at Pia's which is I believe the town's only upscale restaurant, we walked a few doors down to the gallery where we, together with an audience of about 8 or so had a fine time listening to the group jam while sipping home made orangeade for the remainder of the evening.
Next: On to the Outerbanks.
That is so right. When I think back to our best trips they all had that element. When I was in graduate school, my two best friends and I all were laid off from our summer jobs at about the same time and still had most of the summer to go. We decided to drive up north from NYC taking whichever road was closest to the water and see how far north we could get before having to turn back, camping along the way. We ended up going around Canada's Gaspe Peninsula and the adventures we had on the way could be the subject of another very retrospective TR. Another time, DW, our then only son age 10 and I were on our first trip to Italy. We had the entire day to drive from Florence to Venice so decided to just head in the general dirction exploring side roads. Come lunchtime (I've told this story here before, so skip it if you like) we were in a very small town and saw what seemed to be a little restaurant. We stopped and went in - it was a family run place. Pop was at the counter, mom was cooking and daughter was the server although the place was empty. Daughter came to take our order and we asked with the help of a dictionary and phrase book to just bring whatever they thought to be good for lunch. She got pop who confirmed that and engaged in an animated converstation with mom and then sent daughter out. She returned shortly with their extended family, tables pushed together, mom cooking up a storm and we were served family style with the one family member who spoke English interpreting for all. As the only Americans to visit the restaurant in many years we were not customers but honored guests. That was the day we fell in love with Italy. BTW it was the best Italian meal we have ever had.
But I digress, so lets get back to Washington, NC. After a stop in New Bern (thank you Ira)where we visited the old governor's mansion and as obvious out of towners were interviewed for a program later that day - we explored the historic area and headed on to Washington, NC, part of NC's Inner Banks.
This is a place that was nothing like the pictures we had in our minds. What we were thinking of was beautiful tree lined streets, flowering lawns in front of historic homes, quaint shops - you get the picture, New Bern was closer to that. What we found was a small town that perhaps had seen better days. Maybe just a bit run-down or a better description would be not kept up for the tourists. It has a long Main Street, a small estuary museum, and a walk along the water. A place not exactly on the beaten tourist path. There were other tourists there I know because at several places we visited, mention was made of a family visiting from Oklahoma. Our B&B, the Moss House, in a home dating back to 1902 was lovely on a side street across from the library, but otherwise backing on one of the more trafficed streets although noise was not a problem. I very much recommend the place not only for its rooms and furnishings but also for its friendly hosts. Our room was the Estuary room and it was very nice. The nicest room there is the Anchorage. A nice touch is a small chalk board outide each room with the guests first names as well as a similar welcoming sign at the house's rear entrance where there is off street parking.
After getting over our initial "is this all it is" impression we began to walk around, or more precisely, take a stroll down Main St. What we found among the usual shops were several artists cooperatives that we did not expect, one especially showing the works of painters, photographers, potters, hand painted fabrics, etc. The work mostly of high quality, and much of it unusual. Now, we had been looking for something to bring back to our sons - daughter had already been taken care of in Charleston - but we had not found the "just right" gift. In the cooperative we found them. One was a very unusual and perhaps grotesque jug by Ben Watford. It is of a voodoo style and the type of jug that was used to mark the graves of slaves who were not allowed to have tombstones. Its grotesque features were meant to keep the devil away. It is also corked so that if one feels an evil spirit is about, just take out the cork, the spirit will enter and then cork it back up. Number 2 son goes for that kind of thing, and he was delighted to get it. We also found an absolutely beautifully crafted by a local potter (last name of Dee or Lee)ceramic platter patterned after an angel fish. Just right for #1 son and DIL whose home has an aquarium in most every room.
In the afternoon we drove the short distance to Bath, NC's oldest town and purported haunt of Blackbeard. Bath was as we thought it would be and fit the picture that we originally had of Washington,sans quaint shops and smaller.
Again comes an unexpected delight. At the art cooperative, we were told that night, a local blue grass organization will be having their weekly, open to the public, get together in the gallery's back room. Something to put on our must do list to finish the day. After a fine dinner at Pia's which is I believe the town's only upscale restaurant, we walked a few doors down to the gallery where we, together with an audience of about 8 or so had a fine time listening to the group jam while sipping home made orangeade for the remainder of the evening.
Next: On to the Outerbanks.
Jun 28th, 2011, 05:27 PM
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Once again, thanks for the report. Looking forward to the OBX report...it's where I am thinking we'd like to spend a few days, but concerned about too many peeps...(one of the reasons we like heading west)! Hoping and thinking Sept. is not so touristry crazy there...
Jun 29th, 2011, 05:02 AM
#28
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Eschewing the ferry to the Outer Banks (I've been meaning to use that word for awhile, somewhere) we got an early start for what was to be our longest driving day. Our plan was not to stay anywhere on the OBX, but to just scout out the area for later trips since we had never been there before. Our gracious hostess at Moss House advised us to take a route other than the one we planned becuase of widespread brush fires that resulted in the closing of parts of the main road we would have used. As we drove, we could see and smell the smoke. Our final destination that day was Chincoteage Island, VA.
We crossed onto the OBX using US 64 through Manteo and turned south. The plan was to slowly drive the 60 miles to Hatteras where one would have to take a ferry to go further and note places to stop on our return back north. We were surprised by the light traffic on the way, considering it was the Friday before the Father's Day weekend. We very much liked what we saw. That part of the OBX is built up, but not overly so - just enough to be interesting in our opinion with some nice looking restaurant choices and the beaches were well preserved. Of the towns we passed through we thought Buxton and Hatteras would be nice places to stay on a return trip, but really anywhere along that stretch would do. Turning around at the ferry, we stopped to see the beach at several points. They were all clean and broad, not crowded at all(again a surprise)with a moderate surf and some folks with surfboards taking advantage of the waves. All in all it was very attractive. We stopped for a quick, light lunch and a bit longer to walk in the wildlife refuge. All in all we very much liked what we saw. Not so though when we passed the point where we originally turned south from the bridge. As we drove north from that point things quckly became increasingly built up to the point that the northern OBX lost its attractiveness for us. I know it is attractive and popular with others, but it is just not for us.
Next stop Chincoteage.
We crossed onto the OBX using US 64 through Manteo and turned south. The plan was to slowly drive the 60 miles to Hatteras where one would have to take a ferry to go further and note places to stop on our return back north. We were surprised by the light traffic on the way, considering it was the Friday before the Father's Day weekend. We very much liked what we saw. That part of the OBX is built up, but not overly so - just enough to be interesting in our opinion with some nice looking restaurant choices and the beaches were well preserved. Of the towns we passed through we thought Buxton and Hatteras would be nice places to stay on a return trip, but really anywhere along that stretch would do. Turning around at the ferry, we stopped to see the beach at several points. They were all clean and broad, not crowded at all(again a surprise)with a moderate surf and some folks with surfboards taking advantage of the waves. All in all it was very attractive. We stopped for a quick, light lunch and a bit longer to walk in the wildlife refuge. All in all we very much liked what we saw. Not so though when we passed the point where we originally turned south from the bridge. As we drove north from that point things quckly became increasingly built up to the point that the northern OBX lost its attractiveness for us. I know it is attractive and popular with others, but it is just not for us.
Next stop Chincoteage.
Jun 29th, 2011, 07:04 AM
#29
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I'm glad you went to Hatteras first. Think about Ocracoke when you come back. I's only accessible by ferry and still, to my mind, one of the prettiest villages anywhere.
Like I've said before, I remember Kitty hawk when there was no bypass, no Mcmansions and very few people. The ocean there is still my favorite, but it's full of people in the summer. Convenience stores carry the Washington Post.
Minnlake, there will be fewer people in September, after school starts. But do get travel insurance. September is high hurricane season and the Banks are so far east, they get more mandatory evacs than most.
Like I've said before, I remember Kitty hawk when there was no bypass, no Mcmansions and very few people. The ocean there is still my favorite, but it's full of people in the summer. Convenience stores carry the Washington Post.
Minnlake, there will be fewer people in September, after school starts. But do get travel insurance. September is high hurricane season and the Banks are so far east, they get more mandatory evacs than most.
Jun 30th, 2011, 09:40 AM
#30
Original Poster
For the last leg of our trip we drove north using the bridge-tunnel to Chincoteague arriving in the late afternoon. We checked into the Assateague Inn. Since it was Father's Day weekend, rooms were somewhat scarce, but this place filled the bill. The Assateague Inn is at the end of a quiet unpaved side road and has two types of rooms - motel style and studios. When we made our reservation, only the motel style was available and that is too bad. Not because the room was not acceptable, it was basic but very decent and clean with a fridge, microwave and even dishes and utensils, but no view to speak of while all of the studio rooms have glass sliding doors and overlook a pretty salt marsh teeming with birds and a private crabbing dock. One thing we wanted to do the next day was to take a tour by boat in the waters around the island and the nice young lady at the desk highly recommended one conducted by "Capt. Barry" so we booked it for 8AM the next morning. Dinner was at the Village Restaurant which is steps from the Inn. It was one of the best seafood dinners we had on this trip and I highly recommend the place. A number of their tables overlook the marsh as well so ask for one. The evening was spent just exploring Chincoteague's Main Street, stopping in shops - nothing special, but nice.
At 8 the next morning we met Capt Barry at his boat - a very shallow draft pontoon affair we were lucky to be the only ones on that tour although he was heavily booked for other times of the day. Capt. Barry tailors his tours to the interests of those on board and since we are interested in wildlife he headed out to the rookeries where Laughing Gulls were nesting - some still on eggs, other garding newly hatched chicks. As we approached the mother gull would call out and the chicks would come scurrying to the shelter of the nest. Capt Barry is a NY transplant and is a very interesting fellow - colorful and very informative at the same time. He has lived on the island for nearly 20 years, gives tours, has crab traps, I believe deals in clams, but most interestingly to us for the past few years has devoted his off season to volunteering in Haiti, where his wife has set up some sort of health clinic and is very involved in helping the people there - this is as an individual, not as part of any organization. He pulled up some crab traps to demonstrate how it is done and showed us the differences between crabs. He talked about Chincoteague's clamming industry and related research. On his tours where there are kids or others who are interested, he will take them to an area where they can clam and shows them how - we declined. It was a very enjoyable two hours that passed all too quickly. We also saw what we thought were shrimp boats coming in but Capt Barry said they were scalloping boats, shrimp having already moved to the south and scallops were now in high season.
Afterwards we visited the wildlife refuge at Assateague Island, hiked some but saw little in the way of birds or other wildlife other than ravenous mosquitos and headed over to Assateague's beach which we like least of the beaches that we saw on this trip. It was crowded, reminding me of Coney Island on a summer's weekend with coarse sand, and so we skipped it. We decided to head on home about dinner time and stopped at Ray's Shanty on Wallop's Island just a little bit out of Chincoteague. Bookhall, thanks for that suggestion, it was great and I ate a year's worth of scallops in one sittng.
From there it was a quick and easy 3 hour drive home - no traffic to speak of.
All in all this was a memorable trip. We saw an area of the country that was new to us, learned much,found beautiful crafts, ate new things, met great people, and are already making plans to revisit favorite places - Chincoteague on a weekend, Hatteras and perhaps Topsail when there are a few more days available.
Again - thank you fodorites for your fine suggestions. Photos to follow.
At 8 the next morning we met Capt Barry at his boat - a very shallow draft pontoon affair we were lucky to be the only ones on that tour although he was heavily booked for other times of the day. Capt. Barry tailors his tours to the interests of those on board and since we are interested in wildlife he headed out to the rookeries where Laughing Gulls were nesting - some still on eggs, other garding newly hatched chicks. As we approached the mother gull would call out and the chicks would come scurrying to the shelter of the nest. Capt Barry is a NY transplant and is a very interesting fellow - colorful and very informative at the same time. He has lived on the island for nearly 20 years, gives tours, has crab traps, I believe deals in clams, but most interestingly to us for the past few years has devoted his off season to volunteering in Haiti, where his wife has set up some sort of health clinic and is very involved in helping the people there - this is as an individual, not as part of any organization. He pulled up some crab traps to demonstrate how it is done and showed us the differences between crabs. He talked about Chincoteague's clamming industry and related research. On his tours where there are kids or others who are interested, he will take them to an area where they can clam and shows them how - we declined. It was a very enjoyable two hours that passed all too quickly. We also saw what we thought were shrimp boats coming in but Capt Barry said they were scalloping boats, shrimp having already moved to the south and scallops were now in high season.
Afterwards we visited the wildlife refuge at Assateague Island, hiked some but saw little in the way of birds or other wildlife other than ravenous mosquitos and headed over to Assateague's beach which we like least of the beaches that we saw on this trip. It was crowded, reminding me of Coney Island on a summer's weekend with coarse sand, and so we skipped it. We decided to head on home about dinner time and stopped at Ray's Shanty on Wallop's Island just a little bit out of Chincoteague. Bookhall, thanks for that suggestion, it was great and I ate a year's worth of scallops in one sittng.
From there it was a quick and easy 3 hour drive home - no traffic to speak of.
All in all this was a memorable trip. We saw an area of the country that was new to us, learned much,found beautiful crafts, ate new things, met great people, and are already making plans to revisit favorite places - Chincoteague on a weekend, Hatteras and perhaps Topsail when there are a few more days available.
Again - thank you fodorites for your fine suggestions. Photos to follow.
Jul 1st, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Baskingstroke,
Just seeing this and am so glad to learn you enjoyed your stay at the B&B just across the creek from me! I thought about you several times that weekend hoping you were having a grand time in Charleston. You write an excellent trip report and did a stellar job of describing all things wonderful about Charleston.
Elijah must like to sleep in, like you I went by the other day and he wasn't open yet!
Looking forward to pictures!
Just seeing this and am so glad to learn you enjoyed your stay at the B&B just across the creek from me! I thought about you several times that weekend hoping you were having a grand time in Charleston. You write an excellent trip report and did a stellar job of describing all things wonderful about Charleston.
Elijah must like to sleep in, like you I went by the other day and he wasn't open yet!
Looking forward to pictures!
Jul 1st, 2011, 05:39 PM
#32
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OhMYStars - if you are looking for a place to put up some extra guests, you won't go wrong at Plantation Oaks. They will be happy - just remember, adults only.
Also, thank you for the kind words. It is easy to write about Charleston, I am just sorry we hadn't discovered it sooner.
I am going now to do a little work on the photos and post them soon. I am sure there must be at least one that has your house in it.
Also, thank you for the kind words. It is easy to write about Charleston, I am just sorry we hadn't discovered it sooner.
I am going now to do a little work on the photos and post them soon. I am sure there must be at least one that has your house in it.
Jul 7th, 2011, 05:51 PM
#33
Original Poster
Photo link:
http://tinyurl.com/4yuytyf
I had some major camera focus malfunctions and lost quite a few photos. Some of the uploaded photos show the problem, particularly in the tea plantation. Sorry about that, but I thought the tea picking machine was interesting.
http://tinyurl.com/4yuytyf
I had some major camera focus malfunctions and lost quite a few photos. Some of the uploaded photos show the problem, particularly in the tea plantation. Sorry about that, but I thought the tea picking machine was interesting.
Jul 8th, 2011, 07:20 AM
#34
Original Poster
I added to more sets to the collection linked above that includes our visit to Charleston in January. These include interiors of the Mills House Hotel and some significant gravestones in the old Jewish Cemetary that dates back to pre revolutionary war days. You can also see what you get when you order flounder at Hyman's restaurant.
Jul 9th, 2011, 12:42 PM
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I meant to tell you that I was in Duck recently and drove down to Manteo to "scout out" an art gallery. The down town is very sweet and worth a look should you ever get back that way.
That was as far south as we made it, and my first ever trip to the OBX. The Wright Brothers' museum was interesting. Someone mentioned mcmansions to the north and there sure are some but I think (don't know for sure) that many are rented out or are time-shares.
That was as far south as we made it, and my first ever trip to the OBX. The Wright Brothers' museum was interesting. Someone mentioned mcmansions to the north and there sure are some but I think (don't know for sure) that many are rented out or are time-shares.
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