Charleston - Just Returned
May 20th, 2002, 07:14 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Charleston - Just Returned
Here is a short trip report from a just-concluded visit (Part 1). I will post a full version with photos on my Web site in a couple of weeks (www.oneeyed.homestead.com). I have now been in October and May. May was nice, but it can get quite humid, and some sights are crowded with school kids on their end-of-school field trips.
It was our second trip but the first with our daughter, who is just over three years old. We returned to Patriots Point and Fort Sumter, visited the Charleston Museum and a couple more old homes (only the Manigault house remains on the to do list), went to the two plantations we had not visited, the Hunley, the new South Carolina aquarium, took a carriage ride, and spent part of three days at the beach on Isle of Palms. We ate lots of great food, which is easy to find in Charleston.
I have heard so many say that Charleston doesn’t seem like a great destination for kids. I have to disagree. Our daughter loved most of it. Traveling with our her was a big change, but it was very rewarding. She is a very active child, so I didn’t know how well house tours and meals at nice restaurants would go. Let me assure those of you with children that yes you can do it, and those of you without children that you don’t have to run screaming when you see a child approach. Our daughter was very quiet and well-behaved during meals at Anson, Slightly North of Broad, Poogan’s Porch, and the Boathouse, along with other more family-oriented places like Jestine’s Kitchen and Sticky Fingers. She was extremely good during tours of the Calhoun Mansion and the Heyward-Washington House. The only part when she got out-of-hand was when walking around the historic district. She is too young to appreciate history. However, it was our fault because we did not take a stroller, and she got too tired. You just have to love it when you are looking for lunch, and your child says “I don’t like McDonald’s.”
Our daughter’s favorites:
The ships at Patriot Point, especially the space capsules inside the carrier (pushing the buttons), the Yorktown flight deck (walking under the airplanes and spotting dolphins), and the submarine (two trips through it at her request)
The boat ride to Ft. Sumter
The petting farm, boat ride, and Audobon Swamp Walk at Magnolia Plantation
The Hunley – she loved playing in the model and actually seemed somewhat interested in the tour of the real thing (she didn’t want to leave and actually said “goodbye submarine, I love you” on the way out the door – referring to the model)
The playground at the public park on Isle of Palms (she actually didn’t care as much for the beach itself as she did for many other sights and experiences); it is a great beach with kids though because of the playground, picnic tables, changing and restroom facilities, and very convenient parking.
Eating pickles at many of the meals (she loves pickles and olives)
A carriage ride downtown
Visiting the churches of St. Michaels and St. Philips; probably not that great to most kids, but she found them interesting.
The South Carolina Aquarium, especially the large salt-water tank
Waterfront park – lots of water and room to run
Dancing to the beat of a street performer’s bongo drums on Friday night near the market; people said she should be getting tips too; I actually took her back around after retrieving the video camera from the car because I had to have that on tape.
Any fountain
It was our second trip but the first with our daughter, who is just over three years old. We returned to Patriots Point and Fort Sumter, visited the Charleston Museum and a couple more old homes (only the Manigault house remains on the to do list), went to the two plantations we had not visited, the Hunley, the new South Carolina aquarium, took a carriage ride, and spent part of three days at the beach on Isle of Palms. We ate lots of great food, which is easy to find in Charleston.
I have heard so many say that Charleston doesn’t seem like a great destination for kids. I have to disagree. Our daughter loved most of it. Traveling with our her was a big change, but it was very rewarding. She is a very active child, so I didn’t know how well house tours and meals at nice restaurants would go. Let me assure those of you with children that yes you can do it, and those of you without children that you don’t have to run screaming when you see a child approach. Our daughter was very quiet and well-behaved during meals at Anson, Slightly North of Broad, Poogan’s Porch, and the Boathouse, along with other more family-oriented places like Jestine’s Kitchen and Sticky Fingers. She was extremely good during tours of the Calhoun Mansion and the Heyward-Washington House. The only part when she got out-of-hand was when walking around the historic district. She is too young to appreciate history. However, it was our fault because we did not take a stroller, and she got too tired. You just have to love it when you are looking for lunch, and your child says “I don’t like McDonald’s.”
Our daughter’s favorites:
The ships at Patriot Point, especially the space capsules inside the carrier (pushing the buttons), the Yorktown flight deck (walking under the airplanes and spotting dolphins), and the submarine (two trips through it at her request)
The boat ride to Ft. Sumter
The petting farm, boat ride, and Audobon Swamp Walk at Magnolia Plantation
The Hunley – she loved playing in the model and actually seemed somewhat interested in the tour of the real thing (she didn’t want to leave and actually said “goodbye submarine, I love you” on the way out the door – referring to the model)
The playground at the public park on Isle of Palms (she actually didn’t care as much for the beach itself as she did for many other sights and experiences); it is a great beach with kids though because of the playground, picnic tables, changing and restroom facilities, and very convenient parking.
Eating pickles at many of the meals (she loves pickles and olives)
A carriage ride downtown
Visiting the churches of St. Michaels and St. Philips; probably not that great to most kids, but she found them interesting.
The South Carolina Aquarium, especially the large salt-water tank
Waterfront park – lots of water and room to run
Dancing to the beat of a street performer’s bongo drums on Friday night near the market; people said she should be getting tips too; I actually took her back around after retrieving the video camera from the car because I had to have that on tape.
Any fountain
May 20th, 2002, 07:17 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
My list of top sites after two visits:
Plantations (depends on what you want):
Best house – Drayton Hall (I didn’t actually tour the others, but Drayton is the only pre-Civil War version among the four)
Best gardens – Magnolia (Middleton is close)
Most to do/also best for children – Magnolia – petting farm, lots of alligators, boat and tram rides
Most picturesque – Boone Hall – the oaks and slave cabins (Drayton Hall is a close second)
Houses:
1. Edmundton-Alston – right on the battery – lots of the furnishings are original
2. Nathaniel Russell – the famous free-standing staircase and interesting architecture
3. Calhoun Mansion – not as original as others because it was refurnished by a man who bought it in the 70s, but it is quite spectacular; it is somewhat expensive though at $15 each
4. Aiken-Rhett House – urban slave dwellings, carriage house, and different from the rest (preserved, not restored)
Do not miss:
The Battery – you haven’t seen Charleston without it.
The Charleston Museum – I passed on this during the first visit but can’t wait to make a second visit; it is a great introduction to the area’s history and arts and crafts, but the Civil War exhibit is currently under construction.
A carriage tour – It beats walking all the time, you learn about the city’s history, kids love it, and you hear about things you wouldn’t otherwise (such as how much those houses go for on the market).
At least one plantation tour - From what others say they don’t compare to some in the deep South, but you can’t understand Charleston without understanding the rice and slave-driven society on which it was built.
Streets – walk Meeting Street and Church Streets from the City Market to the Battery; Tradd, Chalmers, and Lagare are three more of my favorites.
Food:
You can spend a bit on this part of the trip, but it is worth it. Entrees tend to run around $15-$23 at most good restaurants.
Some of my favorites include:
Jestine’s Kitchen – more affordable than most, casual, terrific country/soul food that included fried green tomatoes and the best fried chicken I have ever tasted.
Anson – a very popular spot, classy, tasteful décor, and great food and service.
Mistral – a French place, cozy, music some nights.
Slightly North of Broad – deserves all the good reviews it gets, ranges from casual to quite dressy crowd, not too bad for kids but didn’t see others during lunch.
The Boathouse – a very nice seafood spot on the Isle of Palms; heard lots of nice comments about it from locals; the portions were not large, but it was good; good sunset spot looking out over the marshes.
Poogan’s Porch – pleasant; quiet when we visited for dinner; outside seating but we moved inside because of high winds; good portions and all very tasty.
Sticky Fingers (convenient locations near the City Market and in Mt. Pleasant) – a very good rib spot that we have visited twice; lots of choices and all good; good family spot too.
For kids – The Trawler or other Shem Creek spots are good because of all the fishing boats, and you can eat outside to watch the boats; I thought some of my seafood was good and some so-so (didn’t like the she-crab soup here – great at Anson), but my wife loved the flounder.
I am perfectly happy to answer any questions you may have.
Plantations (depends on what you want):
Best house – Drayton Hall (I didn’t actually tour the others, but Drayton is the only pre-Civil War version among the four)
Best gardens – Magnolia (Middleton is close)
Most to do/also best for children – Magnolia – petting farm, lots of alligators, boat and tram rides
Most picturesque – Boone Hall – the oaks and slave cabins (Drayton Hall is a close second)
Houses:
1. Edmundton-Alston – right on the battery – lots of the furnishings are original
2. Nathaniel Russell – the famous free-standing staircase and interesting architecture
3. Calhoun Mansion – not as original as others because it was refurnished by a man who bought it in the 70s, but it is quite spectacular; it is somewhat expensive though at $15 each
4. Aiken-Rhett House – urban slave dwellings, carriage house, and different from the rest (preserved, not restored)
Do not miss:
The Battery – you haven’t seen Charleston without it.
The Charleston Museum – I passed on this during the first visit but can’t wait to make a second visit; it is a great introduction to the area’s history and arts and crafts, but the Civil War exhibit is currently under construction.
A carriage tour – It beats walking all the time, you learn about the city’s history, kids love it, and you hear about things you wouldn’t otherwise (such as how much those houses go for on the market).
At least one plantation tour - From what others say they don’t compare to some in the deep South, but you can’t understand Charleston without understanding the rice and slave-driven society on which it was built.
Streets – walk Meeting Street and Church Streets from the City Market to the Battery; Tradd, Chalmers, and Lagare are three more of my favorites.
Food:
You can spend a bit on this part of the trip, but it is worth it. Entrees tend to run around $15-$23 at most good restaurants.
Some of my favorites include:
Jestine’s Kitchen – more affordable than most, casual, terrific country/soul food that included fried green tomatoes and the best fried chicken I have ever tasted.
Anson – a very popular spot, classy, tasteful décor, and great food and service.
Mistral – a French place, cozy, music some nights.
Slightly North of Broad – deserves all the good reviews it gets, ranges from casual to quite dressy crowd, not too bad for kids but didn’t see others during lunch.
The Boathouse – a very nice seafood spot on the Isle of Palms; heard lots of nice comments about it from locals; the portions were not large, but it was good; good sunset spot looking out over the marshes.
Poogan’s Porch – pleasant; quiet when we visited for dinner; outside seating but we moved inside because of high winds; good portions and all very tasty.
Sticky Fingers (convenient locations near the City Market and in Mt. Pleasant) – a very good rib spot that we have visited twice; lots of choices and all good; good family spot too.
For kids – The Trawler or other Shem Creek spots are good because of all the fishing boats, and you can eat outside to watch the boats; I thought some of my seafood was good and some so-so (didn’t like the she-crab soup here – great at Anson), but my wife loved the flounder.
I am perfectly happy to answer any questions you may have.
May 24th, 2002, 08:10 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Not sure Tony. Didn't get by there on this trip. Keeping up with a three-year old made it a little harder to cover all the historic district. It was the only part she really didn't really care much about. I still haven't been in there yet. Next time, I am definitely taking the Civil War and Slavery walking tours.
