Big Island trip report July 2008
Aug 9th, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Big Island trip report July 2008
The Trip
20th Anniversary celebration 14 nights in Hawaii 3 Houses
The People
Me (GP) 54, Amy 50 something. This is our 10 trip into the tropics 4th to the Islands 1st to Hawaii.
The Planning
Ourselves, via the web using TripAdvisor, Fodor’s, many other web sites. 3 guide books and some advice from friends who are building a home near Naalehu
The Flights
On United Arcata-San Francisco-Kona going left 6:30am arrived 11:30 Hawaii time 8 hours travel time nice trip. The return was same route with 9 hours travel time, as had longer lay over in SFO. In Hawaii if you are in the check in line for United at the airport an hour before you leave you should have all the time you need.
The Ride
Alamo mid size a Malibu 14 days $435.00. Insurance Visa and AAA. I have comprehensive coverage with AAA and I checked with them, my full coverage was in effect. The rental contract (which I read twice) said no driving on unpaved roads. No other Hawaii only restrictions. Pick up was simple and quick about ½ hour from shuttle to road and about the same for the return from Alamo’s parking lot to shuttle drop off. All I can say about the car is that Amy wants me to buy one for her. She does the driving and I navigate. (We put 1200 miles on the car)
The Report
Keauhou 3 nights
The House
The Cottage, Mahina Meli Makai (Oceanside Honeymoon) VRBO #114765 aka Prince Properties. What you see on VRBO and The Prince web site is what you get. Well appointed and equipped, perfect for 2 people. This property is not screened in which gives you a few more bugs than usual. This was not our 1st trip into the tropics so we coped. If you are out on the lanai you will not hear road noise. If you are in the bed room with all the doors open you might hear some noise between the swells breaking. You can not get any closer to the ocean than this house. However you can not access the water from the house unless you’re crazy. Kahaluu beach is just 0.3 miles away. You can watch people surf from the lanai. The surfers are about 40 yards away. We did not use the hot tub as it was to hot.
The Supplies
Keauhou Shopping center is about a mile away it has it all.
Rented fins from Boss Froggs $20 bucks for 2 sets for two weeks, we have our own masks and snorkels
Eating out
Huggos on the rocks. Saturday 12:15pm the place was not even ½ full we got an ocean front table. The picky one (that would be Amy) was very pleased with the fish taco’s I liked the food and location. We came back the next day (Sunday) to hear a guy play guitar in the afternoon. Lunch with 2 frou-frou drinks complete with umbrellas $40.00
Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort We could walk over here from the cottage. We ate dinner twice at their oceanfront bar from the puupuu menu. Once again no people. All the food was good and the clams were excellent. The service was fantastic; location was great watching the red sun go down. Puupuu for dinner with drinks (a few) $50.
The Adventures
Pretty weak at this stop.
One full day sacrificed to the relaxing god.
Snorkeling on the Hula Kai WOW! Snorkeled ridges and Ricks or Roberts Reef (I can’t remember the name maybe hawaiidan can help me out) Pricey at $310 for 2 plus tax, but I would go on this trip again.
Snorkeling at Kahaluu beach, lots of fish and turtles we snorkeled at the north end up by the church there were less people.
Kapoho 4 nights
The House
Snorkel Heaven at Kapoho Vacationland VRBO # 103178 aka A Piece of Paradise Hawaiian Vacation Rentals and Real Estate Sales. Again what you see on VRBO and The rental web site is what you get. Jungle setting and private nice ocean view no sunsets, you are facing southeast. Lots of steps up to the living area. Not as well kept up as the Cottage. The outdoor grill needed a good cleaning, the screen door kept falling off and the satellite TV would not work. I called on the second day to tell them about the TV and they said they would get someone on it but it did not happen before we left on day 5. No big loss I would rather watch the ocean. We liked this place better than the cottage. It also is well equipped. Sometimes you could hear the neighbors but you could not see them. It was not noisy at night except for the frogs, birds and geckos. We enjoy the sounds of the jungle and could get to sleep. You can hear the waves from the deck and the bedrooms. (Note from Amy if your husband is snoring in the bedroom down stairs you can pour water on him from the upstairs bedroom. Note from GP it is a wonder we are still together after 20 years.) No direct access to the tide pools due to jungle and ponds in front of the house. If you were real adventurous you could make it but why bother. When just walk down the street and around the corner and your right at the tide pool parking lot less than 0.25 of a mile. This area of the island will not be for everyone but we really liked the Puna district there is an outlaw vibe that reminds us of our Humboldt County home. We felt right at home in Pahoa.
Supplies
In Pahoa 10 miles up the road. Newish shopping center just north of town it has a well stocked market and a fresh fish place. (We got Ahi) Also there is a natural foods place downtown.
Eating out (both in Pahoa)
Luquin’s Mexican: if this place was in Humboldt County it would go out of business from the competition, but in Pahoa it was the packed on Thursday night. 4 beers and two combo plates $50
Paolo's Bistro: One of the best dinners we had on the island. With one of his waitresses out, Paolo both waited on us and cooked the food. We followed his suggestions. Homemade black pasta (dyed with squid ink) with ono in a tomato sauce and salad of mozzarella, tomato and greens tossed with oil and extra virgin olive oil. BYOB $35 with $5 corkage
The Adventures
Trip from Keauhou to Kapoho via 11 south.
Wind was blowing strong at 10am when we left so we skipped south point. Stopped at Manuka State Wayside for a pit stop and short hike wish I had more time. We stopped for lunch at Hana Hou Bakery in Naalehu. $20 for burger and pastrami no pickles no beer. Then the tropical rains came the plan was to hike kipukapuaulu with stops at visitor center, jagger and tree molds We made it to the visitor center and tree molds Amy didn’t want to hike in the rain so we left to Kapoho.
Did a loop from Kapoho of 137 to 130 to 132. This is a real cool Jungle feel drive. Stops at Ahalanui, no hot water soaking for us but a nice place. Isaac Hale the vibe here was move on so we obliged. Mackenzie Park empty except two guys fishing. Nice place spent ¾ of an hour walking around. Down the road (137) a bit someone had set up a table with chairs with a nice distant view of where the lava enters the pacific, a very cool spot. Did not get any pictures of Kehena. There is a place to eat at the end of 137 was open at 1pm on Wednesday we did not stop as we had our lunch with us. We ate at Lava Trees another cool place that was empty. After lunch and hike we returned to Kapoho. This trip took us more than 4 hours. We were not in a hurry.
Hilo
Rainbow Falls Boiling Pots and Peepee Falls, Akaka Falls all these in my book a waste of time lots of buses and people walking along reading the blue book. Akaka is the best of the bunch but now only the long trail is open.
Hawaii Tropical Garden, if you have any interest in plants at all it is worth the $15 outstanding!
Lunch at Kolekole beach, a wonderful setting. Loved the little town of Honomu we contributed to the local economy. This was a full day trip and we did not stop in Hilo.
VNP
Puu Loa petroglyphs I enjoyed this hike the sulphur was not bad down here but was bad driving down the road. Lunch at Volcano house, we should have packed lunch. Did get to hike around kipukapuaulu. Again we had the place to ourselves, nice forest and birds. Did I mention that a lot of the places noted in the blue book had lots of people milling about?
Saddle Road
Yawn. We drove it no problem. There is no reason to drive the saddle road. 19 is quicker and prettier. We had the time and we were going to return to Hamakua coast from Kohala via 19 so we had a look see. The locals do drive the center. We technically violated our rental contract as they are repaving sections of the Hilo side of this road which is excellent, but in two places for about ¼ mile each there is gravel on the road not pavement. If we go back we will not drive it again.
Snorkeling at the tide pools good not great. The fish really seemed tame
Wailea Bay (also spelled Waialea on some maps) 7 nights
The House
Kolea cottage: www.sandyednie.com. When we got here we thought we died and went to heaven. The pictures on the web site give you no clue as to how nice this place is. I will not go on about this place. If you can afford to rent any house on this beach you will not be disappointed.
The supplies
Major shopping up in Waimea. The Puako store had the basics including nice selection of wine and hard stuff.
Eating out
Café Pesto: designer pizza, good salad, expensive wine $90 (wine was $45)
Prince Hotel: Sunset at the Prince. Nice music as the sun set, view and food was better at our house. 4 drinks 3 appetizers $100.00
Mauna Lani: Lunch we split the seafood salad, 2 drinks $60. So good we returned for our 20th Anniversary Dinner at the Canoe House perfect setting seafood salad not as good as lunch. 2 dinners a bottle of Dom Perignon $480 (wine was $350) desert was on the house.
The Adventures
Wailea Bay to Laupahoehoe Point including Waipio Valley lookout. 19 is a very pretty drive. Laupahoehoe Point was a wonderful setting for a picnic. Wandered around Honokaa and contributed to local economy. For both of us the small town shopping offers so much more than places like the Kings and Queens’s shops and anything in Kona It are real nice to talk to the locals.
Wailea Bay to Polou Lookout via 250 the 270. Stops in Hawi, Kapaau and most of the beaches back on 270. Another great little drive. Spent too much money in Hawi and Kapaau. Did I mention we like the small towns?
Snorkeling in MHO this was the best shore snorkeling of the trip. 60 steps from my door to live coral, turtles and fish WOW! I was in the water 3 or 4 hours a day.
The cost
This trip was not designed as budget trip. Housing worked out to $293 per day. All other cost including car rental and gas about $295 per day.
Bottom Line
It has been our style in over 25 years of traveling together not to go back to places we have been because there is so much to see. But we will we return to Wailea Bay.
I’ll be happy to answer any questions, just post here or PM me, but you will be better off reading what the regular posters have to say.
Have Fun
GP
20th Anniversary celebration 14 nights in Hawaii 3 Houses
The People
Me (GP) 54, Amy 50 something. This is our 10 trip into the tropics 4th to the Islands 1st to Hawaii.
The Planning
Ourselves, via the web using TripAdvisor, Fodor’s, many other web sites. 3 guide books and some advice from friends who are building a home near Naalehu
The Flights
On United Arcata-San Francisco-Kona going left 6:30am arrived 11:30 Hawaii time 8 hours travel time nice trip. The return was same route with 9 hours travel time, as had longer lay over in SFO. In Hawaii if you are in the check in line for United at the airport an hour before you leave you should have all the time you need.
The Ride
Alamo mid size a Malibu 14 days $435.00. Insurance Visa and AAA. I have comprehensive coverage with AAA and I checked with them, my full coverage was in effect. The rental contract (which I read twice) said no driving on unpaved roads. No other Hawaii only restrictions. Pick up was simple and quick about ½ hour from shuttle to road and about the same for the return from Alamo’s parking lot to shuttle drop off. All I can say about the car is that Amy wants me to buy one for her. She does the driving and I navigate. (We put 1200 miles on the car)
The Report
Keauhou 3 nights
The House
The Cottage, Mahina Meli Makai (Oceanside Honeymoon) VRBO #114765 aka Prince Properties. What you see on VRBO and The Prince web site is what you get. Well appointed and equipped, perfect for 2 people. This property is not screened in which gives you a few more bugs than usual. This was not our 1st trip into the tropics so we coped. If you are out on the lanai you will not hear road noise. If you are in the bed room with all the doors open you might hear some noise between the swells breaking. You can not get any closer to the ocean than this house. However you can not access the water from the house unless you’re crazy. Kahaluu beach is just 0.3 miles away. You can watch people surf from the lanai. The surfers are about 40 yards away. We did not use the hot tub as it was to hot.
The Supplies
Keauhou Shopping center is about a mile away it has it all.
Rented fins from Boss Froggs $20 bucks for 2 sets for two weeks, we have our own masks and snorkels
Eating out
Huggos on the rocks. Saturday 12:15pm the place was not even ½ full we got an ocean front table. The picky one (that would be Amy) was very pleased with the fish taco’s I liked the food and location. We came back the next day (Sunday) to hear a guy play guitar in the afternoon. Lunch with 2 frou-frou drinks complete with umbrellas $40.00
Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort We could walk over here from the cottage. We ate dinner twice at their oceanfront bar from the puupuu menu. Once again no people. All the food was good and the clams were excellent. The service was fantastic; location was great watching the red sun go down. Puupuu for dinner with drinks (a few) $50.
The Adventures
Pretty weak at this stop.
One full day sacrificed to the relaxing god.
Snorkeling on the Hula Kai WOW! Snorkeled ridges and Ricks or Roberts Reef (I can’t remember the name maybe hawaiidan can help me out) Pricey at $310 for 2 plus tax, but I would go on this trip again.
Snorkeling at Kahaluu beach, lots of fish and turtles we snorkeled at the north end up by the church there were less people.
Kapoho 4 nights
The House
Snorkel Heaven at Kapoho Vacationland VRBO # 103178 aka A Piece of Paradise Hawaiian Vacation Rentals and Real Estate Sales. Again what you see on VRBO and The rental web site is what you get. Jungle setting and private nice ocean view no sunsets, you are facing southeast. Lots of steps up to the living area. Not as well kept up as the Cottage. The outdoor grill needed a good cleaning, the screen door kept falling off and the satellite TV would not work. I called on the second day to tell them about the TV and they said they would get someone on it but it did not happen before we left on day 5. No big loss I would rather watch the ocean. We liked this place better than the cottage. It also is well equipped. Sometimes you could hear the neighbors but you could not see them. It was not noisy at night except for the frogs, birds and geckos. We enjoy the sounds of the jungle and could get to sleep. You can hear the waves from the deck and the bedrooms. (Note from Amy if your husband is snoring in the bedroom down stairs you can pour water on him from the upstairs bedroom. Note from GP it is a wonder we are still together after 20 years.) No direct access to the tide pools due to jungle and ponds in front of the house. If you were real adventurous you could make it but why bother. When just walk down the street and around the corner and your right at the tide pool parking lot less than 0.25 of a mile. This area of the island will not be for everyone but we really liked the Puna district there is an outlaw vibe that reminds us of our Humboldt County home. We felt right at home in Pahoa.
Supplies
In Pahoa 10 miles up the road. Newish shopping center just north of town it has a well stocked market and a fresh fish place. (We got Ahi) Also there is a natural foods place downtown.
Eating out (both in Pahoa)
Luquin’s Mexican: if this place was in Humboldt County it would go out of business from the competition, but in Pahoa it was the packed on Thursday night. 4 beers and two combo plates $50
Paolo's Bistro: One of the best dinners we had on the island. With one of his waitresses out, Paolo both waited on us and cooked the food. We followed his suggestions. Homemade black pasta (dyed with squid ink) with ono in a tomato sauce and salad of mozzarella, tomato and greens tossed with oil and extra virgin olive oil. BYOB $35 with $5 corkage
The Adventures
Trip from Keauhou to Kapoho via 11 south.
Wind was blowing strong at 10am when we left so we skipped south point. Stopped at Manuka State Wayside for a pit stop and short hike wish I had more time. We stopped for lunch at Hana Hou Bakery in Naalehu. $20 for burger and pastrami no pickles no beer. Then the tropical rains came the plan was to hike kipukapuaulu with stops at visitor center, jagger and tree molds We made it to the visitor center and tree molds Amy didn’t want to hike in the rain so we left to Kapoho.
Did a loop from Kapoho of 137 to 130 to 132. This is a real cool Jungle feel drive. Stops at Ahalanui, no hot water soaking for us but a nice place. Isaac Hale the vibe here was move on so we obliged. Mackenzie Park empty except two guys fishing. Nice place spent ¾ of an hour walking around. Down the road (137) a bit someone had set up a table with chairs with a nice distant view of where the lava enters the pacific, a very cool spot. Did not get any pictures of Kehena. There is a place to eat at the end of 137 was open at 1pm on Wednesday we did not stop as we had our lunch with us. We ate at Lava Trees another cool place that was empty. After lunch and hike we returned to Kapoho. This trip took us more than 4 hours. We were not in a hurry.
Hilo
Rainbow Falls Boiling Pots and Peepee Falls, Akaka Falls all these in my book a waste of time lots of buses and people walking along reading the blue book. Akaka is the best of the bunch but now only the long trail is open.
Hawaii Tropical Garden, if you have any interest in plants at all it is worth the $15 outstanding!
Lunch at Kolekole beach, a wonderful setting. Loved the little town of Honomu we contributed to the local economy. This was a full day trip and we did not stop in Hilo.
VNP
Puu Loa petroglyphs I enjoyed this hike the sulphur was not bad down here but was bad driving down the road. Lunch at Volcano house, we should have packed lunch. Did get to hike around kipukapuaulu. Again we had the place to ourselves, nice forest and birds. Did I mention that a lot of the places noted in the blue book had lots of people milling about?
Saddle Road
Yawn. We drove it no problem. There is no reason to drive the saddle road. 19 is quicker and prettier. We had the time and we were going to return to Hamakua coast from Kohala via 19 so we had a look see. The locals do drive the center. We technically violated our rental contract as they are repaving sections of the Hilo side of this road which is excellent, but in two places for about ¼ mile each there is gravel on the road not pavement. If we go back we will not drive it again.
Snorkeling at the tide pools good not great. The fish really seemed tame
Wailea Bay (also spelled Waialea on some maps) 7 nights
The House
Kolea cottage: www.sandyednie.com. When we got here we thought we died and went to heaven. The pictures on the web site give you no clue as to how nice this place is. I will not go on about this place. If you can afford to rent any house on this beach you will not be disappointed.
The supplies
Major shopping up in Waimea. The Puako store had the basics including nice selection of wine and hard stuff.
Eating out
Café Pesto: designer pizza, good salad, expensive wine $90 (wine was $45)
Prince Hotel: Sunset at the Prince. Nice music as the sun set, view and food was better at our house. 4 drinks 3 appetizers $100.00
Mauna Lani: Lunch we split the seafood salad, 2 drinks $60. So good we returned for our 20th Anniversary Dinner at the Canoe House perfect setting seafood salad not as good as lunch. 2 dinners a bottle of Dom Perignon $480 (wine was $350) desert was on the house.
The Adventures
Wailea Bay to Laupahoehoe Point including Waipio Valley lookout. 19 is a very pretty drive. Laupahoehoe Point was a wonderful setting for a picnic. Wandered around Honokaa and contributed to local economy. For both of us the small town shopping offers so much more than places like the Kings and Queens’s shops and anything in Kona It are real nice to talk to the locals.
Wailea Bay to Polou Lookout via 250 the 270. Stops in Hawi, Kapaau and most of the beaches back on 270. Another great little drive. Spent too much money in Hawi and Kapaau. Did I mention we like the small towns?
Snorkeling in MHO this was the best shore snorkeling of the trip. 60 steps from my door to live coral, turtles and fish WOW! I was in the water 3 or 4 hours a day.
The cost
This trip was not designed as budget trip. Housing worked out to $293 per day. All other cost including car rental and gas about $295 per day.
Bottom Line
It has been our style in over 25 years of traveling together not to go back to places we have been because there is so much to see. But we will we return to Wailea Bay.
I’ll be happy to answer any questions, just post here or PM me, but you will be better off reading what the regular posters have to say.
Have Fun
GP
Aug 10th, 2008 | 05:07 AM
#2
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Enjoyed your report. I drove down Puako Road on my last B.I. visit and thought I'd like to rent a cottage there next time. Wailea Bay is in the same area, right?
Was the ocean fairly calm for entering and exiting the water (no strong shore break)?
Was the ocean fairly calm for entering and exiting the water (no strong shore break)?
Aug 12th, 2008 | 08:12 AM
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,728
Likes: 0
Thanks for a very timely report, GP!
I am interested in your first cottage, Mahina Meli Makai, for a September trip, and read a few reviews describing roaches. I can deal with bugs, but having roaches would gross me out. Did you have that problem?
Also, what about Vog? Did you encounter any? I was warned on TA that staying in Kona might prove to be a bad decision.
Looking also at the Pahoa area cottages, the one you stayed at is a bit above our budget, but we're still looking. If anyone has any particular experience with something oceanfront in the $200-225 Per night range, we'd really appreciate it (yes I've checked VRBO and homeaway and the various websites).
I am interested in your first cottage, Mahina Meli Makai, for a September trip, and read a few reviews describing roaches. I can deal with bugs, but having roaches would gross me out. Did you have that problem?
Also, what about Vog? Did you encounter any? I was warned on TA that staying in Kona might prove to be a bad decision.
Looking also at the Pahoa area cottages, the one you stayed at is a bit above our budget, but we're still looking. If anyone has any particular experience with something oceanfront in the $200-225 Per night range, we'd really appreciate it (yes I've checked VRBO and homeaway and the various websites).
Trending Topics
Aug 12th, 2008 | 09:35 AM
#9
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Hi Joan
At Mahina Meli Makai you "would be grossed out" and once they add in all the fees the cost was 263.69 per night for 3 nights. There was vog in Kona when we were there it did not bother us. Air was cleaner in Waialea Bay. You are way out of the action up in Puako but I would head back up there just to be close to Waialea Bay. Access to the coast north of Hilo is easy and you have the resorts. Puako is way different than Waialea Bay although they are close together.
Have Fun
GP
At Mahina Meli Makai you "would be grossed out" and once they add in all the fees the cost was 263.69 per night for 3 nights. There was vog in Kona when we were there it did not bother us. Air was cleaner in Waialea Bay. You are way out of the action up in Puako but I would head back up there just to be close to Waialea Bay. Access to the coast north of Hilo is easy and you have the resorts. Puako is way different than Waialea Bay although they are close together.
Have Fun
GP
Aug 14th, 2008 | 03:33 AM
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,728
Likes: 0
GP, thanks for the help and info!
Yesterday I booked a cottage in Waialea Bay. I even arranged for a "wrap around" reservation, arriving for three days, gone for two, then back for two more, so I only have to pay for five days.
Now off to Volcano to find lodging for two nights....
Yesterday I booked a cottage in Waialea Bay. I even arranged for a "wrap around" reservation, arriving for three days, gone for two, then back for two more, so I only have to pay for five days.
Now off to Volcano to find lodging for two nights....
Aug 14th, 2008 | 05:15 AM
#11
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,981
Likes: 0
Thanks for the report GP. You have given me an idea. We will be on the Big Island for 3 days in Feb. I was looking for a central place to stay to explore the eastern side of the island but after reading your report, maybe we stay one night in the Waimea area, one night in Volcano and one night southeast. Thanks!
Joan, have a great trip and be sure and post a report!
Joan, have a great trip and be sure and post a report!
Aug 14th, 2008 | 01:58 PM
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,728
Likes: 0
Hi CD, thanks! We are staying the first week on Sunset Beach, Oahu (which is kind of neat because as you know we live on another Sunset Beach!).
Are you serious though about three different stays? I think I'd die of exhaustion, I like to nest. Where are you spending the rest of your HI time?
Are you serious though about three different stays? I think I'd die of exhaustion, I like to nest. Where are you spending the rest of your HI time?
Aug 14th, 2008 | 03:07 PM
#13
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,981
Likes: 0
Hi Joan!
We will be 5 wks on Oahu, not too far from you. We have a cottage on the water in Hauula. We wanted to just spend 3nignts on the Big Island mainly to see Volcano's National Park. We will ship most of our clothes home as we leave Oahu and just have back packs for the Big Island. That's why I think we could do three different places cause we will be traveling light. Haven't made a decision yet, just thinking.....I will be interested in reading your report when you return!
Surf's up!!!
We will be 5 wks on Oahu, not too far from you. We have a cottage on the water in Hauula. We wanted to just spend 3nignts on the Big Island mainly to see Volcano's National Park. We will ship most of our clothes home as we leave Oahu and just have back packs for the Big Island. That's why I think we could do three different places cause we will be traveling light. Haven't made a decision yet, just thinking.....I will be interested in reading your report when you return!
Surf's up!!!
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