Big Island TR part 1 - North Kohala
Apr 10th, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Big Island TR part 1 - North Kohala
Here starts our trip report for the Big Island in early April! We are two adults plus one three month old baby. I'm posting this from our condo on the Kohala coast, so the info is hot off the press.
We flew into Kona Airport around 8.30pm. What a great airport! I love the outdoor, open-air terminals. By the time we got our bags and car, it was close to 9.30.
We then drove up to Waimea, where we stayed for two nights at Waimea Garden Cottages, a nice B&B. We had the studio apartment (there are two other freestanding cottages). The owner Barbara is very pleasant. The studio is very nicely decorated and fairly spacious. It appears to have been recently constructed; the cottages are older. However, I'd prefer either of the cottages over the studio; they are more spacious and private, and are better situated. The B&B's grounds are just nice, not amazing. Unfortunately there are no real views, unless you walk to the end of the driveway, from where you have a great view over the Parker Ranch lands to Mauna Kea.
Breakfast consists of fruit (papayas, apple, bananas), cereal, juice, milk, and coffee left for you in your room. This was fine for us, but others may expect a bit more. Unfortunately, the fruit was not replenished for our second night; we were in a hurry to hit the road so did not raise the issue with Barbara.
On the first day, we did North Kohala. We drove up Kohala Mountain Rd to Hawi. This is a marvelous short drive (20-30 minutes). It's a good road up almost along the ridgeline of Kohala Mt, north of Waimea. It is ranching country up there; looking quite like northern California ranchlands in the spring. There are numerous small cinder cones along the way. The views back down over the Kohala coast are excellent.
We then proceeded on to Polulu Valley. The view from the lookout at the end of the road is excellent. We could see (with binoculars) waterfalls on the sea cliffs south of the valley. We then hiked down to the valley floor, about a 15 minute walk down (with the baby!), but about 25-30 minutes back up. It's not impossible, but I'd recommend not wearing flip-flops or sandals (Tevas are fine), as the path is a bit rocky at the end. It's quite jungly. We hung out on the black sand beach, dipped the baby's toes in the ocean, and climbed the forested dunes to see the great views back up the valley. It's a very pleasant place to spend an hour or so. Bring water, especially for the hike back up, which is steep.
Then back to Kapa'au town, where we checked out a few shops and the bookstore. The shops are mostly artsy places or galleries. The shopkeepers were all quite nice and chatty. We got hungry for lunch, and cut our visit short, but we'd like to go back and spend more time there.
On to Hawi, which is very similar to Kapa'au. Both look like nice old plantation towns, with old wooden storefronts. Both towns look like places that you should have bought property in twenty years ago when you could have picked it up for a song. Lots of galleries and such. We had lunch at Bamboo, like everyone else. Very good food, although a bit pricey. Service was very attentive, although the kitchen was a bit slow. Very pleasant old plantation store interior.
We were now seriously behind schedule, mostly due to all sorts of diaper changes and nursing breaks, so we skipped browsing in Hawi, and pushed on down the west coast road, Rt 270. Hawi and Kapa'au are both fairly green and lush (although not as much so as Hilo). The lushness quickly disappears a few miles west of Hawi, and the terrain gets flat and dry. There are good views to the right of Maui and Haleakala. We had been hoping to go snorkeling at a few spots along the coast, but didn't have the time.
Next up was the ancient Hawaiian village at Lapakahi Historical Park, about halfway down Rt 270. This is a ruined ancient Hawaiian village on the coast. It's a very pretty setting. It's also very hot and dry, and essentially in the middle of a lava field. Living here would have been very tough indeed. Bring water. The village is quite extensive; there's a 30-45 minute walk around the grounds that hits most of the sights, with a brief description of each in a little brochure. Unfortunately, the park is not well kept -- there's junk lying around in plain sight. But overall definitely worth seeing -- it's more extensive than anything I've seen on Maui or Kauai.
Then on down the dry and fairly boring coast to Kawaihae. Needing some beach time, we went to Hapuna Beach, which is just plain excellent. Even at 4:00 on a Wednesday there was a good crowd here. It's a wide strip of sand for Hawaii, backed by palms, and some rock. The water has a sandy bottom which very gradually slopes down. The boogieboarding and bodysurfing is great; it's got a consistent even break about 20-30 yards out. The beach park has good facilities, and the restrooms are above-average for a Hawaiian beach park, that is to say, not great, but at least not repulsive either.
We then went back Waimea and went to Merriman's for dinner. This was the icing on the cake of great day! Excellent food; good, friendly service; pleasant atmosphere; and the baby slept the entire time. The wine list is good and not badly priced either. To start, we had a great heirloom tomato and beet salad, plus the kalua pig and sweet onion quesadilla. I had the opakapaka special over prawns (the prawns were amazing); W had the ono. It could not have been better (except if it was free!).
Sorry for the long TR covering just one day. It was a great day. BTW, if we hadn't the baby and first-day-laziness, we could have easily done all the above, plus shopping in Hawi and Kapa'au, and snorkeling somewhere on the west coast. Will followup with posts on the rest of the trip (next up Hamakua coast, Hilo, and Puna).
We flew into Kona Airport around 8.30pm. What a great airport! I love the outdoor, open-air terminals. By the time we got our bags and car, it was close to 9.30.
We then drove up to Waimea, where we stayed for two nights at Waimea Garden Cottages, a nice B&B. We had the studio apartment (there are two other freestanding cottages). The owner Barbara is very pleasant. The studio is very nicely decorated and fairly spacious. It appears to have been recently constructed; the cottages are older. However, I'd prefer either of the cottages over the studio; they are more spacious and private, and are better situated. The B&B's grounds are just nice, not amazing. Unfortunately there are no real views, unless you walk to the end of the driveway, from where you have a great view over the Parker Ranch lands to Mauna Kea.
Breakfast consists of fruit (papayas, apple, bananas), cereal, juice, milk, and coffee left for you in your room. This was fine for us, but others may expect a bit more. Unfortunately, the fruit was not replenished for our second night; we were in a hurry to hit the road so did not raise the issue with Barbara.
On the first day, we did North Kohala. We drove up Kohala Mountain Rd to Hawi. This is a marvelous short drive (20-30 minutes). It's a good road up almost along the ridgeline of Kohala Mt, north of Waimea. It is ranching country up there; looking quite like northern California ranchlands in the spring. There are numerous small cinder cones along the way. The views back down over the Kohala coast are excellent.
We then proceeded on to Polulu Valley. The view from the lookout at the end of the road is excellent. We could see (with binoculars) waterfalls on the sea cliffs south of the valley. We then hiked down to the valley floor, about a 15 minute walk down (with the baby!), but about 25-30 minutes back up. It's not impossible, but I'd recommend not wearing flip-flops or sandals (Tevas are fine), as the path is a bit rocky at the end. It's quite jungly. We hung out on the black sand beach, dipped the baby's toes in the ocean, and climbed the forested dunes to see the great views back up the valley. It's a very pleasant place to spend an hour or so. Bring water, especially for the hike back up, which is steep.
Then back to Kapa'au town, where we checked out a few shops and the bookstore. The shops are mostly artsy places or galleries. The shopkeepers were all quite nice and chatty. We got hungry for lunch, and cut our visit short, but we'd like to go back and spend more time there.
On to Hawi, which is very similar to Kapa'au. Both look like nice old plantation towns, with old wooden storefronts. Both towns look like places that you should have bought property in twenty years ago when you could have picked it up for a song. Lots of galleries and such. We had lunch at Bamboo, like everyone else. Very good food, although a bit pricey. Service was very attentive, although the kitchen was a bit slow. Very pleasant old plantation store interior.
We were now seriously behind schedule, mostly due to all sorts of diaper changes and nursing breaks, so we skipped browsing in Hawi, and pushed on down the west coast road, Rt 270. Hawi and Kapa'au are both fairly green and lush (although not as much so as Hilo). The lushness quickly disappears a few miles west of Hawi, and the terrain gets flat and dry. There are good views to the right of Maui and Haleakala. We had been hoping to go snorkeling at a few spots along the coast, but didn't have the time.
Next up was the ancient Hawaiian village at Lapakahi Historical Park, about halfway down Rt 270. This is a ruined ancient Hawaiian village on the coast. It's a very pretty setting. It's also very hot and dry, and essentially in the middle of a lava field. Living here would have been very tough indeed. Bring water. The village is quite extensive; there's a 30-45 minute walk around the grounds that hits most of the sights, with a brief description of each in a little brochure. Unfortunately, the park is not well kept -- there's junk lying around in plain sight. But overall definitely worth seeing -- it's more extensive than anything I've seen on Maui or Kauai.
Then on down the dry and fairly boring coast to Kawaihae. Needing some beach time, we went to Hapuna Beach, which is just plain excellent. Even at 4:00 on a Wednesday there was a good crowd here. It's a wide strip of sand for Hawaii, backed by palms, and some rock. The water has a sandy bottom which very gradually slopes down. The boogieboarding and bodysurfing is great; it's got a consistent even break about 20-30 yards out. The beach park has good facilities, and the restrooms are above-average for a Hawaiian beach park, that is to say, not great, but at least not repulsive either.
We then went back Waimea and went to Merriman's for dinner. This was the icing on the cake of great day! Excellent food; good, friendly service; pleasant atmosphere; and the baby slept the entire time. The wine list is good and not badly priced either. To start, we had a great heirloom tomato and beet salad, plus the kalua pig and sweet onion quesadilla. I had the opakapaka special over prawns (the prawns were amazing); W had the ono. It could not have been better (except if it was free!).
Sorry for the long TR covering just one day. It was a great day. BTW, if we hadn't the baby and first-day-laziness, we could have easily done all the above, plus shopping in Hawi and Kapa'au, and snorkeling somewhere on the west coast. Will followup with posts on the rest of the trip (next up Hamakua coast, Hilo, and Puna).
Apr 10th, 2007, 01:24 PM
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kbob88:
thanks for taking the time to write. Hope you enjoy the rest of your vacation. Loved to here about the kona airport, the times I've been I've always arrived in Hilo, first week of June will be arriving to Kona and I am really looking forward to that.
Thanks again,
Gina
thanks for taking the time to write. Hope you enjoy the rest of your vacation. Loved to here about the kona airport, the times I've been I've always arrived in Hilo, first week of June will be arriving to Kona and I am really looking forward to that.
Thanks again,
Gina
Apr 10th, 2007, 01:39 PM
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Great TR so far, thanks for posting!
Can I ask where you flew from to get to Hawaii? I am pregnant now, and my husband and I have been traveling to Hawaii every summer for the past 3 years, and will do so again in August when I am 5-6 months pregnant. We are wondering how it will be taking a baby to Hawaii on future trips -- how have you found it so far? Thanks!
Can I ask where you flew from to get to Hawaii? I am pregnant now, and my husband and I have been traveling to Hawaii every summer for the past 3 years, and will do so again in August when I am 5-6 months pregnant. We are wondering how it will be taking a baby to Hawaii on future trips -- how have you found it so far? Thanks!
Apr 10th, 2007, 04:09 PM
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I didn't realize you were expecting, Beachgirl86. Best wishes for you and your soon to be little one!
Kbob88: I thank you also, as I plan to be there in one month. I was wondering abit about the time factor (for that drive/stops) and you pretty much put my mind as rest.
You youngsters are much more brave than I was when I was a new mommmy! I say, go for it!
Kbob88: I thank you also, as I plan to be there in one month. I was wondering abit about the time factor (for that drive/stops) and you pretty much put my mind as rest.
You youngsters are much more brave than I was when I was a new mommmy! I say, go for it!
Apr 10th, 2007, 09:52 PM
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colombiana: The airport reminds me of a Hawaiian version of the Palm Springs airport. Plus it's one of the few left where they bring the stairs out on the tarmac to the plane. I got a picture of W and baby T coming down the stairs. By the time he's grown up, airports will probably all have jet-bridges.
beachgirl86: Congrats! We flew nonstop from San Francisco (about a 5 hour flight). He didn't fuss at all. We went to Maui in Feb when he was 6 weeks old, and he didn't fuss at all either way. And we went to LA one weekend. He's been great to travel with. (We're using up all my vacation while W is on maternity leave!) He fussed more in the car on the way to the airport than in the plane. Just keep the baby comfortable in your arms, don't be shy about breastfeeding on the plane, and make sure they're feeding or sucking on a pacifier or your pinkie while you're ascending and descending so their ears equalize.
olesouthernbelle: Even on the BI distances are fairly short. The whole loop is very doable in a day, especially if you don't have a baby! The mountain road is probably 20 minutes Waimea to Hawi. Kawaihae to Waimea is no more than 10 minutes. Not sure how long the coast road from Hawi to Kawaihae takes since we stopped midway, but my guess would be around 30-40 minutes total, maybe less -- it's a good fast road. Never really saw any traffic at all.
I'll try to write up Hamakua / Hilo / Puna tonight.
beachgirl86: Congrats! We flew nonstop from San Francisco (about a 5 hour flight). He didn't fuss at all. We went to Maui in Feb when he was 6 weeks old, and he didn't fuss at all either way. And we went to LA one weekend. He's been great to travel with. (We're using up all my vacation while W is on maternity leave!) He fussed more in the car on the way to the airport than in the plane. Just keep the baby comfortable in your arms, don't be shy about breastfeeding on the plane, and make sure they're feeding or sucking on a pacifier or your pinkie while you're ascending and descending so their ears equalize.
olesouthernbelle: Even on the BI distances are fairly short. The whole loop is very doable in a day, especially if you don't have a baby! The mountain road is probably 20 minutes Waimea to Hawi. Kawaihae to Waimea is no more than 10 minutes. Not sure how long the coast road from Hawi to Kawaihae takes since we stopped midway, but my guess would be around 30-40 minutes total, maybe less -- it's a good fast road. Never really saw any traffic at all.
I'll try to write up Hamakua / Hilo / Puna tonight.
Apr 11th, 2007, 03:49 AM
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Thanks so much for your wonderfully detailed TR 'on the spot', Bob. We just got confirmation yesterday on our FFAward flight (in September) to B.I. and we're thrilled!
Eagerly looking forward to your TR continuation ...
Mahalo,
Jackie
Eagerly looking forward to your TR continuation ...
Mahalo,
Jackie
Apr 11th, 2007, 05:15 AM
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kbob88:
Again thank you for getting back with us. I think it's great that you get to enjoy all the things you like to do with your young one, I honestly am looking forward to arriving at that airport, we will probably get there early so I can only imagen how pretty it's going to be. Again thank you and hope you can share some of your pictures. I too am looking forward to the rest of your report.
Gina
Again thank you for getting back with us. I think it's great that you get to enjoy all the things you like to do with your young one, I honestly am looking forward to arriving at that airport, we will probably get there early so I can only imagen how pretty it's going to be. Again thank you and hope you can share some of your pictures. I too am looking forward to the rest of your report.
Gina
Apr 11th, 2007, 06:18 AM
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kbob88, thank you for sharing the wonderful one day report. we are going to BI end of next month and we will be having a 6yr old and a 1yr old with us. this is the first time we will be travelling with the younger one so we dont know what to expect. looks like your little one is a grt traveller! Any tips you would like to share about travelling with babies will be greatly appreciated.
Looking forward to reading more of your updates. Have a great time!
Looking forward to reading more of your updates. Have a great time!
Apr 11th, 2007, 07:22 AM
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kbob88: Thanks so much for your tips! I am impressed that you went to Maui with a 6 week old, and now BI with a 3 month old! That's exactly what I'd like to be doing on my maternity leave next year 
Was it a big adjustment taking a vacation with such a young baby -- did people think you were crazy? I'm interested in how you adjusted to being new parents and planning such great trips -- you give me hope for me and my husband! We are so excited about our little one, but don't intend on giving up travel either.
Was it a big adjustment taking a vacation with such a young baby -- did people think you were crazy? I'm interested in how you adjusted to being new parents and planning such great trips -- you give me hope for me and my husband! We are so excited about our little one, but don't intend on giving up travel either.
Apr 11th, 2007, 11:23 AM
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fireflyparents: I think that traveling with a 1 yr old would be a lot different, as they are much more mobile. The 3 month old stays put when you set him down. Plus we can put him in the Baby Bjorn and carry him around everywhere (which he loves). I think that with a one year old we would be a lot more limited in what we could do, although he wouldn't be as needy as a 3 month old.
columbiana: Don't get over-excited about Kona Airport -- remember, it's still just an airport!
beachgirl86: It's been great so far. The big adjustment is that we can only get about 1/2 to 2/3 as much done in a day, as the various diaper changes and nursing really eat into the schedule. Plus when they decide to go down for a nap, you really don't want to wake them!
Otherwise it's been great. People are much more friendly to you when you have a little baby. Don't be shy about breastfeeding or changing diapers anywhere. Some B&Bs wouldn't take a baby. Haven't stayed in hotel with him yet. Make sure you get a condo with a washer/dryer in the unit.
columbiana: Don't get over-excited about Kona Airport -- remember, it's still just an airport!
beachgirl86: It's been great so far. The big adjustment is that we can only get about 1/2 to 2/3 as much done in a day, as the various diaper changes and nursing really eat into the schedule. Plus when they decide to go down for a nap, you really don't want to wake them!
Otherwise it's been great. People are much more friendly to you when you have a little baby. Don't be shy about breastfeeding or changing diapers anywhere. Some B&Bs wouldn't take a baby. Haven't stayed in hotel with him yet. Make sure you get a condo with a washer/dryer in the unit.
Apr 11th, 2007, 01:47 PM
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I've just posted the second part of this trip report, covering the Hamakua Coast, Hilo, Puna, and Saddle Road.
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...1&tid=34980173
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...1&tid=34980173
