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Big Island and Kauai Trip Report - LONG

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Big Island and Kauai Trip Report - LONG

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Old Dec 22nd, 2003, 04:08 PM
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Big Island and Kauai Trip Report - LONG

Returned Saturday from 10 glorious days on the Big Island and Kauai. We had magical weather - brilliant sunshine for all but one day. I had never been to the BI and Kauai - only Maui and Oahu, and wasn't expecting to fall in love with the island of Kauai - but I did. Here's a rundown along with some tips.

Day One and Two
Flew Northwest from Grand Rapids MI to HNL via MSP. I had excellent plane fare, and managed to upgrade to First Class with FF miles. Northwest checked our bags to Hilo, even though our origanl flight with them was to Hnl - all I had to do was show them the Aloha E ticket. Saved alot of time and hassle at HNL. The upgrade was worth every single mile!!!! We stretched out, watched our personal video systems and were relaxed when we arrived - well, at least until we stood in line for our interisland flight. I do NOT like flying interisland. Period. We literally had to stand in line 45 minutes before flight time in order to be able to sit together, since seating is no longer preassigned and the flights are packed to the gills, with many persons waiting for stand by. This occured for each of 3 interisland flights. Oh well, small price to pay for paradise.

Arrived in Hio at 6:30, picked up our Jeep at Thrifty and asked for low key dinner recommendations . Were referred to Tsunami's, a Tempura place favored by locals. It was packed, and with only one cook, it took and hour to get served, but was worth the wait. We had sushi provided free of charge from Ocean Sushi across the street. For $20 we gorged on Shrimp and Ono tempura, crab, squid, and scallops.

On to The Palms Cliff House, a B&B 10 miles north of Hilo. I had reserved a small suite, but found out upon arrival that we had been upgraded to their Bellasimo Suite - on the second floor, with a fireplace, Italian lace sheets, a wrap around ocean front balcony overlooking the crashing waves and a romantic jacuzzi, set in a windowed alcove overlooking the Pacific. It was breathtaking. We threw open the doorwall and fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the cliffs. Breakfast was served on the beautiful ocean front lanai - purple sweet potato and basil fritatta, chicken and mango sausage, huge sunrise muffins and fresh pineapple. Even my husband, who normally would prefer a sausage McMuffin, couldn't belive how wonderful the food was. If you intend to stay in the Hilo area - I highly recommend The Palms Cliff House, it is an incredible, beautiful guest house. I hated to leave and wished the entire stay could have been as magical as our short visit here.

Toured Akaka Falls and on to Volcano. Active lava was present, but required a 10 mile hike, one way, in for viewing. We only had until 3:00, so toured the crater, Thurston Lava Tube and drove down Chain Of Craters Road. Hit the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Plantation on the way back for the requisite purchase (I am addicted to these nuts). Gorgeous weather, bright sunshine, even in Hilo - amazingsights. Back to the airport to stand in line... for KAUAI!!!!

Arrived in Kauai at 6:30. Did the Mr. and Mrs. Kal thing - hubby went straight to Thrifty for the jeep and I retrieved the luggage. we rented a jeep because we intended to (and did) some serious hikes which required 4x4 access, and we're glad we had it. They are a REAL PAIN IN THE YOU KNOW WHAT to top off and on. Therefore, if you aren't going down any LONG forest reserve roads, get a regular convertible. We returned our jeep full of sand and covered in RED MUD and were not charged for excess filth.

Checked into the Kauai Beach Club at the Marriott, hoping for an ocean view. Alas, since we were non-Marriott exchangers, we were relegated to a ground floor garden view. I tried to politely complain to get something with a SLIGHT view, but fell short. The unit grew on me, as we never had to wait for an elevator and had great access to the coffee refill station, pool towel exchange and a short walk to the parking lot. Thank God there were never and Road Warriors outside my doorwall crowing at 6:00 AM. Had dinner at the Marriott since it was late, we were tired, and it was prime rib and crab leg night. It was overpriced and not recommendable - so many other great restaurants on then isle, but we gorged on crab legs, walked the beach and retired for the Helicopter trip next morn.

Day Three
Awoke to a gorgeous sunrise and blue sky. Headed to the Port Allen airport for our Interisland Helicopter flight. We chose this for the waterfall stop and no door feature. WE LOVED THIS!! My jaw was constantly on the floor the sights were so astounding. Shot two rolls of film. Lunched at a nice waterfall, had great deli sandwiches and swam in the pool at the base of the falls. BRING warm clothes if you intend to swim - it gets chilly up there when wet - I was thankful for my polar fleece!

Hit Poipu Beach for sunning and snorkeling after the heli. Saw alot of fish and chased an octopus. Big waves outside the reef - good surfing, but that's another day..

Beach House for dinner. Incredible. Sunset table, amazing food. favorite restaurant on the island (yes Kal, it beat out La Playita). Hubby bought me a white ginger lei that I can still smell it was so heavenly. 24 hours into Kauai and I am already planning how I can sell everything I own and move to this place..

To be continued - Jungle hikes, 200 lb wild boar stories, snorkeling Kee beach, La Playita Azul, dive certifications, surf lessons, sharks and turtle kisses.

Kal, can I hide in your luggage?
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Old Dec 22nd, 2003, 08:58 PM
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Mellyz,
Thanks for you trip report. I am headed to Kauai on Feb 5th for a month and I cannot wait. I go every year, and it is still the most fantastic place in the world to me. I absolutely love Kauai, and when you mentioned the Beach House, I pictured myself there having a dry martini and loving the sunset. Thanks again.
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 05:15 AM
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Thanks for the report. Going to Maui & Kauai on October. Also from Grand Rapids!! Staying at Poipu Kai condos. A surprise 25th anniv. trip for my wife!
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 05:32 AM
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Great report so far!!! Reminds me a lot of our magical times and adventures in Kauai. Can't wait to read the rest!
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 07:30 AM
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Good report--I agree with you about the interisland flights. Like being in a herd of rude cattle.
I am looking forward to hearing about your hikes--Kauai is wonderful.
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 07:49 AM
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On We Go.....

Day Four
We intended to do the "Secret Tunnel To The Northshore" hike, from the "Blue Bible", so we were up before the roosters and in the trusty jeep before 6:30 AM. Crossed the river twice in the jeep - no problems despite heavy rains the previous week. The forest reserve road became increasingly difficult to negotiate, with BIG, DEEP PUDDLES. Coming around a bend we found a huge pickup, with a local hunter and his dog in the back. Got out to chat and ask for some back woods tips. When he found out our intended destination, he promptly told us that "mainlanders don't belong back there". Seems that the heavy rains of late has caused huge, stangant, smelly, thigh high ponds of water on the so called trail. The balance of the trail was knee deep mud, and he had gotten bad bug bites last week on his lower legs and ankles from whatever was in the mud. He was also looking for his hunting dog, that was missing from yesterday's hunt. They got a 220 lb wild boar, and he was afraid that the dog may have been gored during the kill. There are MANY 200 lb boar in the area - much like the deer in Michigan. OK - angry wild boar, smelly water and knee deep chigger mud. No brainer. He suggested a nice hike along the Wailua river. To get there we passed trough the Jurrasic park gates and parked at the stream guaging station, crossed the river and into the bamboo forest. It was a GREAT hike. We had to Indiana Jones it with vines over some streams. Made it about 3 miles or so up river until we needed a macheete. Stopped and had lunch on the boulders in the river, swam in a small falls pool "au Natural" (yes, that was me you saw from the copter) and bouldered our way back down the river to the larger falls. Got nice and muddy, exhausted and happy. Talk to the locals - they know some GREAT spots.

Went up to Kee Beach in the PM. Was relatively calm, so we snorkeled, then had an early dinner at Zelo's. WARNING - only a happy hour menu is served from 3:30-5:30. Not very happy prices for the hour though. Kee Beach was my number one favorite spot in Kauai. Trunk Bay colored water, palm trees, gorgrous backdrop cliffs. Paradise.

Days Five and Six - Scuba Referrals
We took pool and classroom scuba lessons at home, and signed on with Bubbles Below for referral dives. What an excellent choice. Our instructor, Anthony, met us at Koloa Landing at 7:15 for our first day of dives. The turtles were feeding as we entered. Got the requisite skills out of the way FAST and did alot of exploration. Turtles were everywhere as we were the first in the water. I love turtles, they are my fav aquatic critter. A large female came right up to me, putting her flipper on my arm and gazing me in the eye. WOW. Lots or morays and rare green Hawaiian Lionfish. Couldn't wait until the surface interval was over to get back in. Anthony was an excellent instructor. Easy going, great sense of humor, expertly skilled and incredible marine critter knowledge.

Had lunch from Taqueria Nortenos on teh beach at POipu. It was cheap and edible. Then relaxed on the beach before heading back to the Marriott. Had dinner at Duke's. It wasn't that great - had Ono. But after the Beach House, anything would be a disappointment.

Day Six gave us our Scuba Certification with another two GREAT dives at Koloa - although I was now hungry for some different dive terrain. Lunched on plate lunch from the Koloa Fish Market (again on the beach at Poipu). The seared Ahi there looked yummy. Rested until Surf Lesson timeat 2:00. Signed up for lessons with Kauai Surf School through Kukumoi Surf Shop, across from Poipu Beach. Lessons were held at the "Sheraton" beach. This quickly became another favorite beach of mine. I would like to stay at the Sheraton - in an oceanfront room only though. Had a half hour of land lessons, then took the soft boards to the water. What a blast!! We wakeboard and snowboard and could apply some principles to surfing. Quick two hours.

Coconuts for dinner. No waiting, EXCELLENT ONO TEMPURA. Number two rest. so far....

Day Seven
Boat Dives with Bubbles Below.
At Port Allen harbor at 7:15. Two great dives, Amber's Arches and Turtle House with Anthony. Great to see some new terrain. Saw a large white tipped reef shark and interesting topograhy at Amber's, then on to the highlight - Turtle House. Four turtles greeted us at the bottom. Then, they were everywhere. A small turtle swam over a ledge, away from an adult, came right up to me and put his nose against my mask. I tell the kids he was giving me kisses - great photos!! Several white tips again - this time not sleeping, much to hubby's delight. The dive ended too soon. If you dive, go here... GO Go Go.

On to Polihale for the afternoon. HUGE surf (high surf warnings at week's end) made for excellent photos and wave watching.

Ok Kal - La Playita for dinner. WOW. Unsuspecting hubby ordered Seafood Burrito. The darn thing was two feet long - REALLY. It was wonderful!!!! We managed to eat it all. It was WONDERFUL. The place was packed, with a long waiting line when we left - get there early or order carry out!!!

Met the director of sales for Hanalei Bay Resort while getting a coffee. Gave us a free breakfast coupon - nice guy!! Used it Day Eight.....

To Be Continued... have to assemble my coffee and nut gift packages.

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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 08:55 AM
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Very helpful Kauai info! =D> Do you happen to recall about where you were in Kauai when you saw the sharks diving, was it off Port Allen or off the Napali coast ?
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 11:27 AM
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John - sharks were at Amber's Arches and Turtle House - both just a short boat ride off POrt Allen. More tonight.
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Old Dec 24th, 2003, 07:34 AM
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Melz-I wish you would have asked me earlier 'cuz I just shipped our clubs and some beach stuff over 2 days ago!

AND, La Playita had better be REALLY good now!

Mrs Kal tells me she has to sit next to a 255# bore from time to time.

6 days from now, my hangover and I will be having b'fast at Eggberts.

Where the H did 2003 go...not that I'm complaining!
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Old Dec 24th, 2003, 09:37 AM
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Fabulous report Mellyz. Hubby & I are off to the same two islands (Kauai & BI) in May for our 10th aniversary. Like you, I'd already been to Oahu & Maui. Hubby has pnly been to the HNL airport on a layover.

We've got a week for each island and I'm excited reading your report. I wanted to do the helicopter trip with the pool landing but others on this forum have made it sound like it's not worth it. You seem to disagree. Now I'm torn.

Looking forward to the rest. We are hikers but don't plan on renting a 4WD to do the back roads. Plan on a couple trails in Kee'e Park and of course the obvious from Kee'e beach.

Thanks for the restaurant reports. Where is this La Playita located? We are staying southwest of Kappa.

Merry Christmas everyone!
Betty
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Old Dec 24th, 2003, 01:33 PM
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Betty,
LaPlayita Azul is located in the same shopping center as A Pacific Cafe in Kapaa. Go hungry and definitely listen to the recommendations of the waiter.

We did the waterfall landing helicopter tour and enjoyed it a great deal. If I ever did another helicopter tour, I would not do the waterfall landing (only because I have already done it), but I would definitely go with InterIsland with the no doors deal.

I am so jealous of all of you Kauai bound people. We are not going back until 2005. DH has selected some winter destinations for us in 2004! Ugh!!

I loved reading this trip report about the Big Island (and Kauai as well) as I think we will go there for a few days (3-4) next trip over.

 
Old Dec 25th, 2003, 09:02 AM
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What does it mean to "literally" have to stand in line for an interisland flight ?
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Old Dec 25th, 2003, 01:35 PM
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I think it means literally as opposed to non-literally, which would mean they didn't stand in line. In the literal sense they did stand in line. It's just one of those extra words people like to add for emphasis.

We stood in line 45 minutes. . .
We literally stood in line 45 minutes. . .

See the difference? No? Neither do I.
 
Old Dec 25th, 2003, 08:38 PM
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I can assure you that people stand, sit, or after a long flight, slump in the line waiting for interisland flights as there are not chairs where the line forms (they are across the aisle). Question: Would one ask if one was literally rusty? Gotta go, I smell turkey burning.
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Old Dec 26th, 2003, 08:39 AM
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Yes, it was for emphasis. BIG EMPHASIS!!! It's one of those things writers do. It's just hard for me to believe that Aloha and Hawaiian can't preassign seats.

Anyway - the last several days of our trip were wonderful. It rained on Day 8, and I was kind of disappointed since I had planned this to be my all day at the North Shore. We went up anyway, had our free breakfast at Hanalei Bay Resort. The view from the dining room was beautiful as everyone has already advised. We didn't tour the resort - although I love the North Shore - I have developed a preference for the Poipu area as our surfing and diving and fav rest. are centered there. The resort - although seemingly nice, didn't seem to be maintained as well as I'm used to - the dining room seemed a little shabby in apperance - as well as the pool area.

Spent a couple of hours at Kee BEach, but it was VERY windy and chilly with the cold front blasting across, left just before the raindrops. The high surf advisory provided us with a different perspective than we had on sunny, calm Sunday, very dramatic and wild - great photos. Checked out Gilligan's Island Mooloa Bay as there was a rental home I wanted to see. Walked the beach and did some tide pool exploring

Drove to Waimea and had dinner at Wrangler's. Was An OK meal - had hoped for some shrimp at the Shrimp Plantation - little outdoor only spot in town, but they were closed. Rats!! They had the best shrimp we have had on the island when we stopped for a "little" snack on the way back from Polihale Beach. Went to see Billabong's Odyssey at the Waimea Theatre. Excellent surf movie - which we enjoyed since we are now first rate wave riders - HAHA, great little theatre which the community is trying to restore and keep afloat.

Last day - boo hoo. Intended to actually spend some time at the Marriott since we had been out of there from 6-6 each day. But, alas, the surf was calling and we headed to Nukumoi Surf to pick up the boards and hit the Sheraton Beach.

Observations: I loved Kauai. My husband, a confirmed beach vacation hater (he is an adventure seeker kind of guy) actually wants to return and told me that we could actually live on this island (if he could spend all winter in Utah and Montana). There were so many great activities to keep BOTH of us happy.

I love the Carribbean and St. John is my favorite island - for it's remoteness and gorgeous water. Having visited Kauai - they have equal ranking in my book. I will never go to Mauai again Kauai beats it hands down in our minds - and plan to return to Kauai and the Big Island again with the kids in tow in 2005. I just have to save up enough for first class seats for five - OUCH!!! There is so much to share with them.

I will try to stay in the Poipu area if possible - our activities were centered there - and avoid Kapaa except for La Playita - just can't understand the traffic jams there. It was just too busy in Kapaa.

Diving with Bubbles Below was phenomenol. I recommed them - if you dive with Anthony - can't refer any other dive leaders as Anthony was the only guide we had.

Don't get a jeep unless you intend to take the Forest Reserve Roads to remote hiking like we did. The tops are a pain and a regular convertible will get you anywhere else you want to go.

Take an Interisland Heli tour - the doors off otion is the best - but bring a windbreaker and tie the hair back. We felt the waterfall option was worth the price - it was fun, but it was our 10th anniversary so we were splurging. Ask for Gary - great pilot and VERY FUNNY.

Try to get off the beaten path - our hike along the Wailua River was so great - and our move night at Waimea Theatre so much fun - we were the only non-locals there.

Ask locals about hiking conditions - the Blue Book is great, but conditions on any trail may be adverse depending on the current conditions - the locals, especially hunters know and can give you the real low down, as well as great ideas. And good locals only rest options.

Kal - have a GREAT trip. I'll be thinking of you, that glorious island and the smile on your face at La Playita Azul... ALOHA!!!!

Melanie
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Old Dec 26th, 2003, 06:10 PM
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Mellyz

We are going to Hawaii (honeymoon) next Sept for 22 days spending time in Kauai - 7, BI - 5, Maui - 5, Molokai - 3, Oahu - 2. Your trip report was great.

I was lean towards staying at Kileau Lodge near the volcano for 2 nights until I read your report on the Palms Cliff house and looked up there website on the internet. It looks like a beautiful place. How far away where you from the Volcano Park? Would you recommend the room you had or a different room?

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Old Dec 27th, 2003, 04:15 AM
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The opposite of literally is "figuratively", not "non-literally".
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Old Dec 27th, 2003, 07:20 AM
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"And all this has what to do with TRAVEL ??"
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Old Dec 27th, 2003, 07:27 AM
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Great report. We are going to the BI in the summer. Info will be useful. And I mean that literally! LOL!
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Old Dec 27th, 2003, 12:08 PM
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Nancy03 - we were about a 45 minute drive from Volcano. I'd recommend ANY of the rooms - altghough I loved the jacuzzi tub in our suite - I think four of them have thses tubs and the larger balconies.

Really - who cares about wording - it's the sharing of experiences and info that matters.
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