Let me preface the actual report w/my travel info. I flew US Air out of CLT, direct to MSY. Both flights were on time, + I was upgraded to 1st Class on both legs. So, we're off to a good start !

Arrived on the late evening flight from CLT a little before 9pm CT. Headed to my hotel which was the St. Christopher - Best Western on Magazine (right off Canal). Used points so that was free. The room itself was not your typical hotel room as I had brick walls and a skylight over the sitting area. Not sure if this was a typical room, or a bit of an upgrade since I am Diamond preferred w/Best Western. I usually stay in the Quarter (someplace like the Monteleone) so I wasn't crazy about the location as I don't care much for Canal St. But, once again, it was free, & I'm in New Orleans. Just means I'll get more exercise, which I will likely need w/the copious amounts of food & drink to come.

Upon arrival (& having starved myself somewhat on purpose) I lit out down Decatur to Cafe Maspero. I sat at the bar rather than to wait in line, ordered an Abita & muffaletta & began to soak in the atmosphere. Since I as sitting right by the pick-up station I struck up a conversation w/the bartenders & a couple of servers. Like me advise everyone, this is not for the faint of heart, but is a great form of free entertainment. They asked me if I were a local (I guess since I just plopped down & ordered w/out even cracking a menu)& went on to explain this was pretty much how all my New Orleans visits began. End - night one.

Sat. 8/8 - Change of plans. After reading NeoP's dining extravaganza @ various Chef's tables around the city, I had thought that I would follow in his foot steps, as it were, to a few select venues. However, after stepping out of my hotel lobby @ 8am & having my entire wardrobe stick too me like glue, my plans took a rather hasty turn. So, off to do my first wander & to check out the Red Dress Run - nolareddress.tumblr.com This is essentially a drinking marathon that begins @ 9am, for charity of course, so that makes it OK. Also wanted to pick up a few items for my kids, I found some cool stuff here - http://www.hippieshop.com/ especially for my daughter, since she dresses somewhere between a hippie & Punky Brewster. Ended up over on Frenchmen St. checking out venues for future reference when the first monsoon of the weekend hit. Since I was nearly over a mile away from m y hotel, suffice it to say, I got drenched...Off we go for some dry clothes.

Since the sky still looked fairly ominous, I headed to the Red Dress Run gathering area and hung out there for a bit. Even though I was not properly attired, I escaped any ire from any of the participants (I guess they were all seeing 'red' at that point) Wow ! that was bad . Around Noon I figured out I was just around the corner from WINO, so off we go for a snack & some refreshment. www.winoschool.com Following that I continued my wandering which had been cut short by the earlier rain & wandered into Crescent City Brew House. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com I particularly like their seasonal Kolsch style beer when they have it, but alas, not in season right now. So I sat at the bar to nurse my beer & struck up a conversation w/Barry (the resident oyster shucker) & some other gents. In short order, I mysteriously have oysters appearing in front of me. So as not to be crass, I thought it only proper to order a few to go along w/the freebies. They were surprisingly good ! Although w/the oyster farms these days, I guess there isn't really an 'off-season' anymore. After that little taste I figured I'd better stop by Acme & make sure theirs' were OK as as well. Once again, by-passed the line of 50 or so & sat down right at the bar w/my old friend 'Broadway'. (There most certainly are certain advantages to dining solo) Figured I'd better have some red beans & rice while I was there as well....and a Dixie or two. Then it is back to the Hotel to get ready for "Dirty Linen" night on Royal St. http://goneworleans.about.com/od/art...dirtylinen.htm

So the wander down Royal St. begins. Most all the galleries are open & offering free snacks & beverages. In fact, Royal St. looks like Bourbon St, used to. It is packed w/people & performers. Here are some of my favorites - allamzieallthetime.com, www.ammoarts.com, www.putmangallery.com & kakogallery.com. Ran into a few old friends + made some new ones, then off to HOB to see - http://blog.nola.com/lagniappe/2008/...s_to_bour.html which was a very entertaining show, after that, hiked back to Frenchmen St. to check out the show @ Snug Harbor - http://www.snugjazz.com/site/

Needless to say Sunday became a bit of a recovery day. I spent a little time in Harrah's (as much as I loathe the place) played some video poker & some blackjack & over the course of a couple of hours lost exactly $2.50. I was still waiting for the rain to abate as I needed to meet a friend of mine after lunch, so just in the nick of time, it did. Went at had a couple of beers @ Molly's - http://www.mollysatthemarket.net/history.php & caught up w/my friend and decided we had not seen each other in 3 years ! Over a few beers we managed to catch up quite nicely & inteerestingly she asked me (as a NOLA native)how I thought NOLA was 'treating me' ? I told her very well, it seems much closer to what it used to be like Pre-K, @ least in & around the Quarter. A little plug here, if you subscribe to Budget Travel, my friend may well be on the cover of the Ireland issue. She & her boyfriend had just returned from the shoot, he is/was the photographer. Following that I ventured over to The Clover Grill for some late lunch (?) since it was about 4pm. - http://www.clovergrill.com/ Quite possibly one of the best all night/hangover curing bars in the Quater. Stepped into a bar on Bourbon St. to listen to a Zydeco band & guess what ? The rains came....again. Guess I'll need to find someplace else to eat & have a drink...Next - the Summation

I started smiling at "BACK FROM NOLA" and haven't stopped yet! Wonderful report and thanks so much for sharing all your info - maybe you were a tour guide in a past life, hmmmmmm?

CColor thanks, but probably not...lol

To sum up, NOLA seems to get 'better' every time I go. Better in the sense that it is healing. However, they still need help, and tourists' $$ helps to provide that...The rest of my trip was fairly uneventful. Suffice it to say, I didn't get to do some things I planned, simply due to the weather. I was pretty much soaking wet the entire weekend either from the 'pop-up' showers or from plain old sweat, due to the heat & humidity. I walked, a lot. The French Market (almost forgot) does finally have some food stands and such in it (at last). It is now only about 80% junk. But anything is an improvement. In speaking w/folks there, they are continuing to struggle. A couple of places that I used to visit and had been in business I guess 25 years or more had closed since my last visit in October. There is the continued fear of no one who works in NOLA, actually being able to afford to live in NOLA. Of course the political arena is as corrupt as ever & I actually saw some anti-Nagin signs & graffiti. However, just as old businesses and such seem to vanish, new things seem to be popping up on every corner, particularly on Royal St. which has even more antique shops and galleries now (or at least it seems that way)than ever. If you are thinking of visiting, please do so, you'll not regret it. SA

ttt

Hi SAnParis2,

Liked your report and glad you had a good time during your visit.

I was one of those 5,000 +/- people who participated in this years' Red Dress Run. It was a wonderful time, inspite of the rain. You are right about it being more of a marathon pub-crawl but there are a few people who "run".

Awesome. I'm getting ready for my proposed visit in October.

be - let me just say, I did not see a single person even attempting to, pretend to run...

SAnParis, lol... it was great fun regardless of the lack of exercise everyone was getting. Actually, I think there is a "real" run the night before the event. One the day of the RDR, I only saw two people who ran by me.

We're going at the end of September. Even after all the visits in the past 15+ years, once again I can hardly wait. Ya got me psyched now, SAn baby!!

I've been visiting for about 15 or so years as well. Glad I could help.

Forgot to mention this, the smoking ban is being recognized & enforced (I'm guessing it is for 'restaurants only' based on my experience). I know that will make some folks' day.

Great report. I'll be in NOLA mid-November and your trip report has really got me into "planning mode"!

Glad to hear it & have a great trip. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to try & help.