Back from Arizona: trip report

Old Mar 16th, 2006, 12:34 PM
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Back from Arizona: trip report

OK, many of you have been to Arizona, but despite traveling many places we hadn't. Now we are back from a 3 1/2 week trip to this part of the U. S. Long drive west on I-40 the first couple of days from Springfield, MO, including some icey slush in Oklahoma which really messed up our Toyota. Lunches at a couple of neat Rte 66 places: Rock Cafe in Stroud, OK, and El Camedor in Moriaty, NM. Sagebrush scenery gets pretty desolate with the drought and we climb higher.

Overnights in Amarillo and in Albuquerque
...certainly would recommend cuisine at LaCrepe Michel in Old Town there. Not much going on in Old Town this early. Sad to see encroaching housing around Petroglyphs west of town. Better see them before they're gone! As we leave interstate at Gallup we head NW to Canyon De Chelly and lunch in Dine Cafe in Window Rock, the only non-Navajo people in the place! We stayed im Chinle at the Holiday Inn which has excellent food at their Garcia Restaurant.

Canyon de Chelly really is breathtaking, from the rim drive to the jeep tour to the bottom. Yeah, the jeep ('93 Wrangler with no reverse gear) was pretty rugged for us old guys. Price much more than that printed in AAA book...$125 a person. Canyon has spectacular rock formations that soar above you and evidence of ancient Anasazi dwellings in cliffs.

This is definitely Navajoland and as we exited we stopped off at the Hubbell trading post at Ganado. You may know the history of these tribes included a forced relocation and then later being allowed back to the reservation. Lunch in another place with the Navajos, Kate's Restaurant in Tuba City, en route to the Grand Canyon. Navajoland. Weather is a bit chilly we find.
(to be continued)

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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 12:56 PM
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We arrived at the Grand Canyon and stayed at Yavapai Lodge. On our way coming west we stopped off at the overlooks for marvelous views of this natural wonder. Beyond description
...we bought a DVD of "The Grand Canyon Suite" which will have views along with this music for our remembrance. BTW, hearing this Ferde Grofe music as a kid was the first time I realized classical music might be worth hearing.

Lodging at the GC varies but rooms are nice. Lots of international visitors and we talked with Swedes, Italians, Kenyans, Canadians, Dutch tourists.
Small world? Well, next door to us at Yavapai were folks from our home town and members of a sister church! I had an altitude adjustment and found my breathing affected (heart repair a year ago). Very nice dinner at the Bright Angel Lodge dining room. Drove out to Hopi overlook for sunset view.

Next day...on to Sedona. Now that's an interesting place, right? We saw some wildlife...elk, deer, etc. We drove the swtichbacks down Oak Creek Canyon and stayed in Grace's B&B south of town. This is a lovely home some dozen miles south of the Y and does this former Polish citizen ever treat you nice, including sumptuous breakfast and hospitality. Dinner at nearby Marketplace included live music. We spent time at Tlaquepaque and Hillside galleries and happened into the Sedona Film Festival. One we viewed on a Sunday morning was quite appropriate..."Jesus, Mary and Joey" which we hope might come to theaters someday. Good for some laughs and maybe religious thoughts. But do you really believe (and does young Mary) that God has a plan for everybody? Joey has trouble with this idea, expecially when a young child dies.
(to be continued)
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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 04:48 PM
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Huge redrock formations surrounding Sedona make for a scenic setting. Yes, as has been said on Fodors that it is touristy (but not so bad off season) and yet has wonderful art galleries. And places to eat, too, more than we could sample. We would recommend Secret Gardens in Tlaquepaque among the many choices. Of course take time to browse there. Also many point to the Chapel of the Holy Cross as being well worth the climb. Too bad a huge mansion now squats across the street. Plenty of hiking in the Sedona area including Cathedral Rock.

Sometimes discussed on Fodors: should you bother going over to Jerome. It is an historic mining town perched on a hill and if you have time plenty of shops to look around in, also a museum. Tuzagoot ruins along the way worth the look. Would endorse lunch at Tavern Grill in Cottonwood...the rich steak chili. Another night at Grace's Secret Garden B&B on Jacks Canyon Rd. where she let me check my email and we had some BBQ.

Next destination: Tucson. Unfortu-
nately, this means going through Phoenix traffic. Did you realize (I didn't) that this is the 5th largest U.S. metro area? In Tucson we stayed at the Windmill Suites where my wife's Iowa high school class had a reunion
...and a great time for her to once again be with childhood pals.

Several tours included going south to San Xavier Mission, Tcumacacori which was the first mission, and Tubac barracks. But we didn't use our passports for any trip to nearby Mexico.
Then west to Saguaro Nat'l Park to learn about the saguaro and other cacti. Fascinating how they survive in just such a desert. Too much water and they would burst. Several recommended dining places: Longhorn Grill south off I-19, and close to the Windmill, El Corral and Vivace, the one very western and the other Italian.

from ozarksbill (to be continued)
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Old Mar 17th, 2006, 07:50 AM
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The desert Southwest is very different from the verdant Middlewest. Almost no green grass...instead people rake the gravel in their front yards! Almost no trees...except pinons at higher elevations. But certainly striking scenery rising above desolate scrubland. An email penpal in eastern Tucson (grew up in Vermont, moved from California) spoke about a peacefulness looking out from her patio at the mountains and blue sky.

Certainly many have relocated to Arizona...a lot of RV or retirement type developments in sprawling Tucson and Phoenix and elsewhere. We talked with Minnesotans glad to escape the severe winters. Temps actually on the cool side in early March.

Also visited a promising attorney with a firm in Phoenix whom we knew as a youth near Wichita. Last year was eventful for him...getting married, having a child, moving into a new home, losing his mother...we were guests in his lovely home. En route to Phoenix we took the wrong road (hwy 77) which was a bit to the east on what I will call "slag dump alley." Seems like a chunk of Arizona is being dug up in mining operations. Wish we had time for some Phoenix museums. But much prefered conversation with our young friends on politics, religion, and more.

On to Prescott with lunch at Garcias in Prescott Valley, located in a considerable shopping mall development. The mile high city of Prescott is a former territorial capital with a nice history museum. Walking around the square you have a choice of a number of eating places, also on Whiskey Row some bars to add flavor. We recommend St. Michael's Hotel Cafe. Next morning on to Peach Springs at the Grand Canyon.

(to be continued)




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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 05:56 AM
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March 5-10 was at an Elderhostel (our 24th) staying at a new Hualapai Lodge in Peach Springs. I recommend EH programs for anyone over 50 with an acquisitive mind. This one sponsored by Yavapai College was on the Hualapai culture and on the Grand Canyon. The Indian people are struggling to keep
"the old ways" but the young people are pulled by the modern world. A state law requiring English as the official language in schools (rather than Spanish) has adversely affected Indian efforts to keep their own tongues alive. We learned from native leaders much about customs, stories, art, dances, songs of the Hualapai people. They have poverty and also health problems including obesity (too much fry bread) and diabetes. Also we got a glimpse into tribal issues with plans for economic growth...including water rafting trips avaliable.

In addition, we learned about the geology of the Grand Canyon going back so many millions of years. Courses and field trips were led by experts. Several trips took us to overviews on the rim, looking down on the town of Supai on the river bed only acessible by pack and foot and river. In the western section, unlike the GC Nat'l Pk further east, you can get drive to the Colorado River which we did by van and then enjoyable hike. Relaxing picnic at the river banked by canyon walls.

Departure on Sunday for Utah as we headed home. Someone later asked why we drove north to go east...a good question as we faced a snow storm!
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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 06:19 AM
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Ozarksbill, I am enjoying reading about your unique experience.

Your Elderhostel experience brought to mind one of my first undergrad courses in sociology -- language and culture. I was particularly fascinated with how the Apache's use silence as a form of communication. Even as children returned from schooling in the dominant society, there was a period of silence before the child would speak to his/her parents. Fascinating.

It is a struggle to retain ones' culture. When a language dies, so does the culture.

I look forward to reading more!
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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 10:51 AM
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I'm enjoying your excellent trip report, Bill!

The Petroglyphs are part of a national monument, so they are protected from development. It's pretty easy to get on a trail and get away from it all there.

You're right that there is a lot of development on the west side, though. Basically, that's the only direction Albuquerque can grow, with pueblos to the north and south (plus the Air Force base on the south) and the Sandias on the east.

Lee Ann
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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 12:13 PM
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Footnotes to Elendilpickle & Seetheworld:
Thanks for your comments. Interesting about language...yes we did learn something about the importance of native tongues. While the Navajos seem to naturally communicate in their langauge, the Hualapai speak English unless some elder has coached them. We were fascinated especially by songs as a means of promoting culture, many so called bird songs, and most importantly the "journey songs" used at time of death. BTW, that movie "Code Talkers" is a farce stressing battle violence more than the Navajo secret code.

About those petroglyphs outside Albuquerque, I guess we were appalled by the urban sprawl in the area. A new housing development is planned for the hill overlooking the site. A ranger at the national monument was afraid of future vandalism with such encroachment. Our discussion included a general concern of such growth all over that threatens historic sites, e.g., Civil War battlefields. I didn't realize restrictions on expansion you mention.

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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 12:45 PM
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Great report and trip.....are you originally from Springfield??? My son-in-law is from Turners(Station) and his folks had the store and still live there, with brother and aunt close by.
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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 04:29 PM
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desertduds...
Turners Station? Yep, we know about that "filling station" of old east of town. Interesting. We retired to Spfld about 14 years ago. Lived here and there in the Midwest.

Thanks for reading my report. Was a great trip, going west for a change instead of east to visit family (in Mass).

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Old Mar 18th, 2006, 05:24 PM
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Sounds like a wonderful trip,
thanks for posting.
Question:
Does one have to be under
50 for the Elderhostel?
How similar to a *hostel*
is it?
Do they take children?
The one you describe sounds
very interesting!
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Old Mar 19th, 2006, 05:39 AM
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Under 50? Oh no, it's over 50. Always glad to promote Elderhostel which has such a variety of offerings all over the world. Check out the catalogue in your library or www.elderhostel.org. Nothing "hostel" about it, except that the founder once got an idea while staying in youth hostels in Europe for a low cost seniors program. Lodging is no longer just on college campuses but mostly in motels and retreat centers. We went to several intergenerational programs with grandkids.

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Old Mar 19th, 2006, 05:57 AM
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Thanks bill, I did mean
*over* 50. So in other words,
those under cannot stay?
The one you describes sounds
amazing.
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Old Mar 19th, 2006, 11:35 AM
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To continue this trip report...morning session for the Elderhostel on Hualapai stories and then we left the Grand Canyon which is of course so majestic to view and experience. Comment from a book I recommend ("Insider's Guide-the Grand Canyon", also covering other spots in N. Arizona, by Lee & Quinn):
"Looking into the Grand Canyon from the rim, it is hard to appreciate its true vastness-the Canyon is 217 miles long, 8 to 14 miles across, and 5,300 feet deep! It is rightly considered one of the seven naural wonders of the world, a place to be cherished and protected for future generations." BTW, although caused by wind and rain erosion, it was actually a plateau thrust upward by fault activity which is why you see the many ancient rock layers.

We travel old hwy 66 to Kingman and then up to Las Vegas. But when we
approach Hoover Dam we face traffic congestion due to narrow roads and much traffic. A good many stop off to inspect this manmade marvel which makes parking a headache. On into Utah and there is snow! No problem in getting to our destination in Springdale (314 miles). By passed Vegas...no casinos for us thank you! Sack lunch provided by EH, dinner Oscars Cafe, overnight at Red Rock B&B. Here was a little cabin with delicious breakfast delivered at your doorstep!

Next day...seeing and hiking at Zion National Park. The snow added a beautiful white fringe to the rock formations. Lunch at Pioneer Restaurant
and then pushing on 117 miles to stop at Beaver, UT, on I-15. The original plan was to stay a night at Bryce Canyon but with the snow and higher elevation we were advised against it, and calling there confirmed this.
As it was, we quit driving due to a whiteout in favor of a Comfort Inn stop in Beaver. I did enjoy a swim at the motel and we were on the road next day.
Glad to hear that Phoenix without rain for some 144 days finally got some.

A word about Zion Pk...have been reading Edw. Abbey's "Desert Solitaire"
about his seasonal ranger job there almost 50 years ago. He advises against jumping into your automobile and rushing out to canyon country hoping to see the beauty he describes...you have to walk or even crawl over rock to really see it. He speaks of the slickrock desert and burnt cliffs which is Zion. But he goes way too far in criticism of road construction projects and wants to outlaw all cars, as if everyone can ride a mule! Yes, it is great to take time to hike but this can't be a wilderness only for the hardy backpackers.

(to be continued)
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Old Mar 19th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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Final installment, I hope. Whoops, made a mistake about the comments from Edw. Abbey. He was talking not about Zion but about Arches Nat'l Pk. Well, this was our next destination anyway as we located in Moab. We got over to Green River for lunch at Ben's Cafe. Lots of choices for lodging in Moab
...we picked out a less expensive rustic motel, Redstone Inn, next to the Chevy dealership. Plenty of daylight for a drive into the Arches to admire the formations. Moab is a real center for mountain biking and hiking.

Dinner that night was at Eddie McStiffs and with it being a mircobrewery I had their Chestnut Brown Ale. About the Arches, these are impressive formations with a bunch of photographers on our path. What we saw was Balanced Rock, Cover Arch, Double Arch, etc. which doesn't cover the park. A little more snow. We were just getting travel weary and so decided that we wouldn't stay but start heading home the next day.

Made Grand Junction for lunch at Chilis and up to Colorado National Monument and then Black Canyon of the Gunnison which was barely open due to snow pack.
Entrance to these along with Zion and the Arches are after a long upward mountainous climb.

Crossing the Continental Divide on U.S.50 over the Monarch Pass proved to be scary. Not bad until we climbed higher and higher and then were on packed snow and ice. As we arrived in Salida, CO, we realized we had a problem. Lots of people around for skiing and being spring break as well. But we did get the last room at a Days Inn. Owners formerly from Zakopane, Poland, which we visited last June, somewhat similar to Salida near the mountains. Nice dinner at Country Lady. To the east next day is a scenic canyon drive stretch with river rafting as you leave the Rockies.

Then the last lap through eastern Colorado and western Kansas and those huge feed lots. Mexican food in Rocky Ford...won't even mention the place's name. A stay at Holiday Inn in Dodge City, KS, and being there, of course meant eating at a steak house, Montana Mikes on Wyatt Earp Blvd.

Final day...a stop off to see a friend in Kingman and for lunch with our son in Wichita and home by six. Safely home from our 4432 mile journey. Really good to sleep in our own bed.

ozarksbill
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 06:05 AM
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An after thought. A friend asked me "Did you enjoy a relaxing trip?" In thinking about it the truth is that while it was an enjoyable trip, it was truly relaxing to get safely home. I noticed, for instance, the tension in my jaw at night has gone away. The friend says that as we get older it can be more stressful to body and mind to drive and adjust to changing conditions. I did notice that it wears you down to drive in Phoenix traffic or on interstate highways with the trucks.

Yes, travel is wonderful but I was so glad to see the flowers in my front yard again...home sweet home!

ozarksbill


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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 08:12 AM
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thanks for taking the time to post that very enjoyable report.
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Old Jul 10th, 2006, 07:45 PM
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Excellent report, Ozarksbill. I can almost smell the fry bread.
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Old Jul 11th, 2006, 03:29 AM
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How in the world did I miss this report when Ozarksbill first posted it? Well, I am glad it got topped so I can read it now.

I really loved this report, and I hope I am half as active at your age (maybe I AM your age? I am just over 50).

I love Arizona and you went at one of the best times of the year, IMO. 3 1/2 wks is a long time for a driving trip for me but yours is so interesting that it makes me think maybe we could do it some day too.

Thanks, Ozarksbill!
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Old Jul 11th, 2006, 02:09 PM
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Hey, emd...thanks for liking my report on Arizona. It was exploring new territory for us, planned around my wife's Iowa high school reunion and an Elderhostel in Hualapai lands. Arizona does have its own beauty...which we might say is true for other places, right?

I'm guessing you are an Easterner and not so far from NYC. Once again we head East later on visiting family, son teaching at Vassar College, living now with partner in Cambridge who is manager of American Rep Theatre, Harvard, also daughter and husband Amesbury, MA. Looks like you've been to Japan, maybe elsewhere.

As to my age, I will only say that it is related to the year of Independence and to trombones in The Music Man! BTW, shortly after this trip I had a pacemaker implanted...no wonder I was a bit breathless in Arizona. I was operating at a 30 to 40 beat per minute pulse rate...now set at 80 and going strong.

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