Amtrak: St. Louis---An Interesting Slice of the USA.
Jul 28th, 2018, 10:20 AM
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Amtrak: St. Louis---An Interesting Slice of the USA.
Hello fellow travellers,
Saint Louis actually was part of my crazy travel adventures from Montreal, Canada to Central America (Belize) without ever setting foot on an airplane! I wanted to include it as a separate entry as I felt the Saint Louis report would maybe not reach a desired target audience of prospective travellers if it were lumped in with the Belize report.
For those who arrive by Amtrak on the San Antonio to Chicago line, don't make the foolish error that I did and assume that Union Station is where the train arrives! I picked the Pear Tree Inn in part because of its proximity to Union Station, thinking I'd save on cab fare and only have to walk 5 minutes to the hotel...I was quite surprised on arrival that I was not where I thought I would be, at the Gateway Transportation Center, which ended up being maybe a 20 minute walk to my hotel. I was generally quite happy with the hotel though, and appreciated its maybe 8-minute walk distance from the Union Station Metrolink stop, where I purchased for $7.50 a day pass which allowed me to go to the "8th & Pine" stop right near the Gateway Arch in the downtown center.
It definitely was a unique experience in my life to ride the "tram" which takes one to the Top of the Arch. One of my fellow passengers told me that St. Louisans jokingly refer to it as the "washing machine" since it kind of feels like you're in one as you step into the 4 foot tall entrance door and ride in the 5-seater whose ceiling is right above your head. My fellow adult passenger found it amusing that I was anticipating that we'd have views of the city as the tram climbed up to the top of the Arch, but no, all you see is emergency stairs, wiring and air conditioning ducts as the cramped capsule (misnamed a tram) brings you up to the top. Nevertheless, in a humorous way, I enjoyed the ride up and it was in my mind worth it for the fantastic views of the Courhouse, skyscrapers, stadium and Mississippi River one gets from above.
As much as anything though, I appreciated the free museum that was attached to the "tram" ride. Here I learned about the Osage, the French colonial history (which I didn't realize was being administered by the Spanish), the 19th century US history as a frontier town and the building of the incredible architectural feat that is the Arch. Coming from Quebec, I found myself moved looking at the early French colonial settlement, with the architectural style, family names and even vocabulary in its difference from European French being remarkably similar to that found in my home province. How strange it would be for someone living in Saint Louis some 215 years ago to see that their culture had mostly disappeared with only whisperings remaining in the modern Midwest city.
After the museum, I went to Charlie Gitto's to try the dish I learned Saint Louis is known for, toasted ravioli. I appreciated the friendly, down-to-earth lively vibe of this establishment, which in some ways exemplified the essence of the modern city for me, with wall decorations upstairs clearly indicating the baseball-loving nature of some of the city's denizens. After, I went to the Old Courthouse, which was intimately involved in the infamous Dred Scott slavery case. The museum here was well-done and I learned much more about this episode in US Supreme Court History and the disgraceful majority decision written by Roger Taney. I also didn't realize that, in part due to Saint Louis having a different history under New Spain, that there was a much larger population of free blacks in the city relative to some slave-owning states of the young US nation, with some accruing tremendous wealth in the period from 1804-1860. I reflected upon how we learned about the Louisiana Purchase in school--really essentially as an event that tremendously increased the size of the United States, but that I had never stopped to consider the effects that this event had on the citizens. Some of the plaques at the museums discussed how the property or civil rights of women and free blacks were curtailed considerably under the US of that time--so I imagine the Louisiana Purchase might have been a time of trepidation for many inhabitants of the good city of Saint Louis.
I'm not sure if there were some sort of convention going on while in Saint Louis, but I don't think I'd ever seen as many (Catholic?) priests with long, flowing black cassocks and chains with big silver-coloured crosses. And this is from someone who had just traveled extensively in Mexico and lives in Quebec. I mused, possibly inaccurately, that perhaps this was a legacy of the French colonial period. I read that Saint Louis had a lot of Catholic immigration in the 19th century arriving on its shores, especially from Germany and Ireland, I would imagine perhaps as a place where Catholics felt more comfortable settling in that time period.
All of this to say, I found Saint Louis to offer up a fascinating and unique tale of US history. While it is true that the city is quieter than other urban destinations, I think those that take the time to visit (possibly with the excuse of going up the Arch) will be pleased that they did. Personally, I'm sorry that it took me 47 years before I imagined to see this enjoyable city.
Happy travels, Daniel
Saint Louis actually was part of my crazy travel adventures from Montreal, Canada to Central America (Belize) without ever setting foot on an airplane! I wanted to include it as a separate entry as I felt the Saint Louis report would maybe not reach a desired target audience of prospective travellers if it were lumped in with the Belize report.
For those who arrive by Amtrak on the San Antonio to Chicago line, don't make the foolish error that I did and assume that Union Station is where the train arrives! I picked the Pear Tree Inn in part because of its proximity to Union Station, thinking I'd save on cab fare and only have to walk 5 minutes to the hotel...I was quite surprised on arrival that I was not where I thought I would be, at the Gateway Transportation Center, which ended up being maybe a 20 minute walk to my hotel. I was generally quite happy with the hotel though, and appreciated its maybe 8-minute walk distance from the Union Station Metrolink stop, where I purchased for $7.50 a day pass which allowed me to go to the "8th & Pine" stop right near the Gateway Arch in the downtown center.
It definitely was a unique experience in my life to ride the "tram" which takes one to the Top of the Arch. One of my fellow passengers told me that St. Louisans jokingly refer to it as the "washing machine" since it kind of feels like you're in one as you step into the 4 foot tall entrance door and ride in the 5-seater whose ceiling is right above your head. My fellow adult passenger found it amusing that I was anticipating that we'd have views of the city as the tram climbed up to the top of the Arch, but no, all you see is emergency stairs, wiring and air conditioning ducts as the cramped capsule (misnamed a tram) brings you up to the top. Nevertheless, in a humorous way, I enjoyed the ride up and it was in my mind worth it for the fantastic views of the Courhouse, skyscrapers, stadium and Mississippi River one gets from above.
As much as anything though, I appreciated the free museum that was attached to the "tram" ride. Here I learned about the Osage, the French colonial history (which I didn't realize was being administered by the Spanish), the 19th century US history as a frontier town and the building of the incredible architectural feat that is the Arch. Coming from Quebec, I found myself moved looking at the early French colonial settlement, with the architectural style, family names and even vocabulary in its difference from European French being remarkably similar to that found in my home province. How strange it would be for someone living in Saint Louis some 215 years ago to see that their culture had mostly disappeared with only whisperings remaining in the modern Midwest city.
After the museum, I went to Charlie Gitto's to try the dish I learned Saint Louis is known for, toasted ravioli. I appreciated the friendly, down-to-earth lively vibe of this establishment, which in some ways exemplified the essence of the modern city for me, with wall decorations upstairs clearly indicating the baseball-loving nature of some of the city's denizens. After, I went to the Old Courthouse, which was intimately involved in the infamous Dred Scott slavery case. The museum here was well-done and I learned much more about this episode in US Supreme Court History and the disgraceful majority decision written by Roger Taney. I also didn't realize that, in part due to Saint Louis having a different history under New Spain, that there was a much larger population of free blacks in the city relative to some slave-owning states of the young US nation, with some accruing tremendous wealth in the period from 1804-1860. I reflected upon how we learned about the Louisiana Purchase in school--really essentially as an event that tremendously increased the size of the United States, but that I had never stopped to consider the effects that this event had on the citizens. Some of the plaques at the museums discussed how the property or civil rights of women and free blacks were curtailed considerably under the US of that time--so I imagine the Louisiana Purchase might have been a time of trepidation for many inhabitants of the good city of Saint Louis.
I'm not sure if there were some sort of convention going on while in Saint Louis, but I don't think I'd ever seen as many (Catholic?) priests with long, flowing black cassocks and chains with big silver-coloured crosses. And this is from someone who had just traveled extensively in Mexico and lives in Quebec. I mused, possibly inaccurately, that perhaps this was a legacy of the French colonial period. I read that Saint Louis had a lot of Catholic immigration in the 19th century arriving on its shores, especially from Germany and Ireland, I would imagine perhaps as a place where Catholics felt more comfortable settling in that time period.
All of this to say, I found Saint Louis to offer up a fascinating and unique tale of US history. While it is true that the city is quieter than other urban destinations, I think those that take the time to visit (possibly with the excuse of going up the Arch) will be pleased that they did. Personally, I'm sorry that it took me 47 years before I imagined to see this enjoyable city.
Happy travels, Daniel
Jul 28th, 2018, 10:25 AM
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Here is a link to my overall over-land journey from Canada to Belize, for those who might be interested how I did the trip: Canada to Belize without flying?
Jul 28th, 2018, 02:55 PM
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Enjoyed your report.
For anyone else thinking of St Louis, besides the Arch, the number one "do not miss" sight in St Louis is the cathedral. It has the most magnificent mosaics in the US. They rival any you find in the rest of the world.
As to food, it is all about barbecue. St Louis ribs are the ultimate!
For anyone else thinking of St Louis, besides the Arch, the number one "do not miss" sight in St Louis is the cathedral. It has the most magnificent mosaics in the US. They rival any you find in the rest of the world.
As to food, it is all about barbecue. St Louis ribs are the ultimate!
Jul 29th, 2018, 06:48 AM
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Thursdaysd--I possibly made it sound worse than it is and it's thankfully 3-4 minutes only going up, but I indeed would not recommend it to someone with claustrophobia. As far as vertigo is concerned, some of the trestle bridges on the Amtrak routes we've taken, even if not as tall, have seemed more dizzying and worrying to me (with the added variable of the train motion) than the motionless indoor viewing area at the Top of the Arch--although, indeed it's 630 feet at the top of the Arch. Hope you're enjoying your summer and accompanying travels.
Sassafras/Barbara--Well, sounds like I missed some interesting specialties with the Cathedral, the gooey butter cake and the barbecue. Another friend told me about Ted Drewes frozen custard there which I was unable to try.
Thanks to both of you for reading/enjoying the report.
Sassafras/Barbara--Well, sounds like I missed some interesting specialties with the Cathedral, the gooey butter cake and the barbecue. Another friend told me about Ted Drewes frozen custard there which I was unable to try.
Thanks to both of you for reading/enjoying the report.
Jul 29th, 2018, 07:25 AM
#8
Thanks Daniel! Unfortunately, I have been unable to travel since getting back from my 2016 trip. However, I am now on medication that is working and am planning to travel to the UK in the fall, partly to see people (I am British by birth) and partly to see some new places. I will be taking the overnight Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston to Edinburgh, which I have wanted to do for some time, and have sprung for a first class ticket (with the help of a Senior Rail Pass). It will be one of the last trips before the rolling stock is upgraded. I will be taking a couple of flights (Glasgow to Jersey and Guernsey to Exeter), but a ferry and a number of trains as well.
Jul 29th, 2018, 03:29 PM
#9
Many thanks for an excellent report on my home city (which I've not been back to in far too long). We always said we were hatching from the egg when we finally climbed out of those capsules.
If you ever make it back, St. Louis also has a prehistoric site called Cahokia Mounds, which is an ancient city now disappeared and there is the largest Japanese Gardens outside of Japan, at the Missouri Botanical Gardens. At the edge of the metro area is well preserved French built city of St. Charles. First capitol of the state; starting place of the Lewis and Clark Exhibition; the site of Elijah Lovejoy's Abolitionist press; Daniel Boone's retirement farm; and the workplace and gravesite of Rose Philippine Duchesne, the first American saint.
If you ever make it back, St. Louis also has a prehistoric site called Cahokia Mounds, which is an ancient city now disappeared and there is the largest Japanese Gardens outside of Japan, at the Missouri Botanical Gardens. At the edge of the metro area is well preserved French built city of St. Charles. First capitol of the state; starting place of the Lewis and Clark Exhibition; the site of Elijah Lovejoy's Abolitionist press; Daniel Boone's retirement farm; and the workplace and gravesite of Rose Philippine Duchesne, the first American saint.
Jul 29th, 2018, 05:44 PM
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Sassafras--With the Cathedral, food items and now CounterClifton's additional suggestions, I have now plenty of cause to return!
Thursdaysd--So excited for you and envious about the Caledonian Sleeper
. I have also wanted to experience those ferries so as to visit Guernsey and Jersey.
CounterClifton--Thanks for the suggestions for future visits. I was reading about the Cahokia Mounds a bit in the Gateway Arch Museum and was intrigued as to the apparently rather large pre-European conquest community was there. I'd also love to see Saint Charles for the sights you mention. It's funny--when I saw your post I thought: didn't I remember when visiting New York City that Elizabeth Ann Seton was the first American saint? Turns out I need to pay closer attention to facts: Ms. Seton was the first American-born saint. Ms. Duchesse I'm gathering was the first American saint (but was born in France). Anyway, glad I got to see your hometown and look forward to some day seeing more if it.
Thursdaysd--So excited for you and envious about the Caledonian Sleeper
. I have also wanted to experience those ferries so as to visit Guernsey and Jersey.CounterClifton--Thanks for the suggestions for future visits. I was reading about the Cahokia Mounds a bit in the Gateway Arch Museum and was intrigued as to the apparently rather large pre-European conquest community was there. I'd also love to see Saint Charles for the sights you mention. It's funny--when I saw your post I thought: didn't I remember when visiting New York City that Elizabeth Ann Seton was the first American saint? Turns out I need to pay closer attention to facts: Ms. Seton was the first American-born saint. Ms. Duchesse I'm gathering was the first American saint (but was born in France). Anyway, glad I got to see your hometown and look forward to some day seeing more if it.
Aug 1st, 2018, 03:16 AM
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I have. I think the mystery of the mounds themselves are probably the biggest attraction for me. They're quite large, using earth from quite a long way away and built by a people who didn't have domesticated animals for hauling or even the wheel. There's a small museum with dioramas and artifacts showing what's been unearthed so far. Nothing elaborate, but interesting.
Aug 1st, 2018, 03:56 AM
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Thanks for the interesting report, Daniel.
I was interested to read about your trip up the arch. When we were there the lines were much too long and the folks we were with discouraged the trip. We did find the museum there interesting.
Also interesting to hear about the "French" history. We had visited the Cahokia mounds just across the river and if there were any descendants of the Native Americans, they would also not find much in the St. Louis of their origins.
I was interested to read about your trip up the arch. When we were there the lines were much too long and the folks we were with discouraged the trip. We did find the museum there interesting.
Also interesting to hear about the "French" history. We had visited the Cahokia mounds just across the river and if there were any descendants of the Native Americans, they would also not find much in the St. Louis of their origins.
Aug 1st, 2018, 06:10 AM
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CounterClifton, emalloy, Barbara--On reading the interest here in the Cahokia Mounds, it got me reading more. As one who loves pre-European North American history, I'm disappointed in myself that I did not research this more! The word "Mound" made me think this largest and most complex archaeological site north of the Rio Grande was less interesting than it appears to be. I checked my definition of mound--a round mass projecting above a surface; what I just saw from a picture looks way more interesting than that-- like a temple. I've seen other Mounds that are more like remnant bumps--I'd recommend a name change (just Cahokia?)
emalloy--Thanks for you comment! Indeed, the Mississippian people would find the area of St. Louis less recognizable than the French would. Apparently, Cahokia was around from 800-1350; as with Altun Ha (abandoned around 1000AD) I saw in Belize this trip, I wonder what happened in Cahokia long before European arrival that caused it to be abandoned. Marauders?
As far as the Missouri French, there was an exhibit showcasing French words of that area and I was wondering how the exhibit confidently knew the pronunciation of the French of the region. Apparently, some "Missouri French" speakers (as opposed to French speakers living in Missouri from elsewhere in the French world) still live--the Wikipedia source says the number is now less than 10!
schmerl, 5alive--Thanks for reading and stating your appreciation! ��
emalloy--Thanks for you comment! Indeed, the Mississippian people would find the area of St. Louis less recognizable than the French would. Apparently, Cahokia was around from 800-1350; as with Altun Ha (abandoned around 1000AD) I saw in Belize this trip, I wonder what happened in Cahokia long before European arrival that caused it to be abandoned. Marauders?
As far as the Missouri French, there was an exhibit showcasing French words of that area and I was wondering how the exhibit confidently knew the pronunciation of the French of the region. Apparently, some "Missouri French" speakers (as opposed to French speakers living in Missouri from elsewhere in the French world) still live--the Wikipedia source says the number is now less than 10!
schmerl, 5alive--Thanks for reading and stating your appreciation! ��
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