J_Correa

In the winter, it is too chilly for the alligators, so they hybernate.

travelgirl2

To get into Preservation Hall, you stand in line, then sit mostly on the floor or stand.

We've been a few times to the Palm Court Cafe for dinner. Usually our first night, so we could listen to the live jazz while eating dinner. The food was okay, but it was good music and a nice supper club kind of atmosphere and a relaxing, easy place to go. Definitely needed advance reservations here. (Again, the tradeoff of okay food instead of excellent, in order to hear music while eating.)

Have a great time! Please let us know what you thought of everything.

travelgirl2

Court of Two Sisters has jazz brunch every day (I think).

skolat

If your husband loves jazz - go to Snug Harbor - it can't be beat. Mid-City Rock N' Bowl is also a lot of fun especially on Thursdays which is Zydeco night. You can cab out and back.

Jeffslaw

Visit the D-Day Museum. A friend referred it to us and it was very interesting; not just about D-Day. Worth a visit. Looking forward to our fifth trip in April (French Quarter Festival). Also, a knowledgeable cabbie can give you as good a "Katrina" tour as you want (and can handle). We did that and viewed the lower Ninth Ward last April (how much devastation can you handle? things were little changed then then they were right after the storm). Just as good and probably cheaper (if more than one person) than an organized tour. Plus, you only pay for as much as you can handle or care to see. Ask the bell captain at your hotel.

yotefan37

BTW, I know that "Katrina Tour" sounds pretty morbid and, well, a little insensitive...

When we first heard about the tours, we were pretty appalled. However, we then heard that the Gray Line Tour donates a hefty share of the money to rebuilding, that the tours are run by people who have been greatly affected and want to share their stories, and that the tour avoids most of the hardest hit areas so that that people don't feel like they are being gawked at.

Quite frankly, Katrina really drove our decision to visit NOLA this Christmas - we want to support the wonderful city with our tourist dollars, and if we can spread the word to friends and family that Nola is the place to be, even better.

The whole aftermath of the storm just felt so wrong to both of us. When we saw how the amazing people of Nola responded, we just knew that New Orleans must be an incredible place, with incredible people...hence, our wonderful trip!

jps

I don't think you could make a reservation at any of the places I'm about to list but I checked the schedule at the offBeat Magazine website and came up with my personal picks. 12/19- A line up of New Orleans greats at House of Blues or Cajun night at Rock 'n' Bowl or Rebirth Brass Band at the Maple Leaf. 12/21- Geno Delafose (a nationally known Zydeco great) at Rock n Bowl or Kermitt Ruffins & the BBQ Swingers (Jazz) at Vaughan's. 12/22 - Hot Club of New Orleans (Jazz) at d.b.a., 12/23- John Boutte (awesome, awesome Jazz singer) at d.b.a. 12/25- Marva Wright's Xmas Bash (Blues and Zydeco) at Tipitina's. 12/26 - Rebirth Brass Band at the Maple Leaf. These are all major favorites of mine from years of going to Jazz Fest and hitting the clubs when I'm in New Orleans.

Do pick up an offBeat Magazine and have a look for yourself. Also drop by the Louisiana Music Factory in the Quarter. It's a music store that specializes in Louisiana Music and they always have listening stations set up so you can sample cds of local artists yourself.

I think I've just gotten inspired to schedule a trip to New Orleans in the next few months!

yotefan37

Wow! Awesome list - thanks so much!

Kal

Am I late or has someone mentioned the WWII Museum already?

travelgirl2

Great list, jps!

lucy_d

I also recommend Court of Two Sisters. They have a lunch buffet, or it might be a breakfast/brunch buffet with extended hours that includes heavier food. Was there a couple of years ago, and can't remember the details, but I know I had shrimp creole, so it wasn't breakfast.

I don't think anyone has mentioned Brennan's. This is a MUST for breakfast/brunch if it's open when you're there. You can check the menu online.

Have a great trip!

RubyEuropa

Andrea,

I'd like to offer a few suggestions as well. New Orleans is my favorite city in the world. I go at least once a year (for a week, usually Halloween, though I've been there at Christmas, in the spring, and in the summer, and for St. Patrick's Day) and have done so for the last 15 years. I haven't been back since Katrina for health reasons, but I will be back sometime in 2007. I miss the city too much not to go back!

Regarding walking tours of New Orleans), my favorite is the ones done by Haunted History Tours (http://www.hauntedhistorytours.com/). My favorite tour of theirs is the ghost walk tour. I've taken the tours by 4-5 other companies over the years, but HHT is by far my favorite. They know their lore, and they're very dramatic and entertaining.

I can't remember if you mentioned the Garden District in your itinerary. If you didn't, I highly encourage it. It's a short street car ride out. I've taken a few of the walking tours, but I prefer meandering around on my own, checking out all those wonderful mansions. Then having lunch at Commander's Palace.

As for food, do NOT miss Irene's Cafe in the French Quarter, on St. Philip Street. FANTASTIC food. More a local hangout, I believe, than a well-known tourist stop, though I know myself and others recommend this place repeatedly to others, so it's probably as filled with tourists as locals now! They don't take reservations (or at least didn't used to), but any wait is worth it. For the fun and funkiness and vibe of Bourbon Street, I'd recommend stopping in for breakfast or lunch, and their yummy homemade potato chips, at Poppy's Grill on St. Peter Street (opposite Pat O'Brien's, I believe). I don't want to say any more about the 'vibe' of the place and spoil it for you. But let's just say it's highly... entertaining! Also for great food (particularly pizza/pasta), stop in at Louisiana Pizza Kitchen at the end of Decatur, opposite the French Market. Awesome food and drinks (and some great wines).

As for a proper hurricane, don't even bother with Pat O'Brien's. That's the tourist version. If you want a real hurricane, go to Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop on Bourbon Street. Trust me on this (And the drink is served in a great plastic souvenir to-go cup. I have hundreds of these at home, I'm embarrassed to say, lol). For other alcoholic libation, I'd also recommend a hand grenade (they are served in these great to-go mugs) at Tropical Isle on... the corner of Toulouse and Bourbon, I think it is.

I've taken the Honey Island Swamp Tour twice (but in the summer). It's my favorite of the swamp tour companies I've used. Though the swamps in winter are kind of.... boring. You don't see near the wildlife or get that sense of bayou wildness that you'll find in the hotter months (including the gators), but it's still amazing. All that wonderful Spanish moss everywhere

The levee bonfires at Christmas are an awesome sight. You'll love it.

Regarding Gray Line tours, they are pretty boring in my opinion. If you want something more colorful, I'd opt for another company. Is Audobon Zoo back open yet? If so, it's nice and everything, but not a must-see itinerary stop unless you're into visiting zoos everwhere you go (I know some people are). A better trip would be the one out to Chalmette Battlefield on the Creole Queen (I think it's that one, or maybe it's the Delta Queen, I forget) -- the combination river and battlefield tour. That is a great trip. Though I don't know how much damage Katrina caused at the battlefield...

As for plantations, I go out to Oak Alley every year. I love it. But the others are awesome as well. In fact, a good day's use of time would be one of the day-long River Road plantation tours.

Have a really fantastic time And have a beignet and cafe au lait for me at Cafe du Monde

AmyKA

Was waiting for someone to mention Tipitina's! Great Cajun music and dancing (rent "The Big Easy" and see the scene where Dennis Quaid tries to teach Ellen Barkin).

Also, shop for souvenirs first at the Flea Market in the French Market - from Jackson Square, walk east along Decatur and keep staying on the right as the street splits and you'll get there. You'll save a ton on beads and the usual stuff the folks back home want - and the flea marketers are the more marginal (and needier) of the merchants in NOLA, I'm guessing.

We went on a swamp tour in late afternoon and it was amazing seeing the flowers and foliage by day and then darkness falling and seeing the flashing eyes of the creatures in the dark (airboats with search lights catch sight of the animals by their retinas flashing back).

I'd also visit the Napoleon House - just off Jackson Square for drinks, and Commander's Palace for any meal (big striped awning just opposite the big cemetary uptown).

My biggest advice, though, is - you have an exhaustive list - don't visit generic things you can see in any city - the zoo, aquarium, etc. Leave yourself more time to feel New Orleans, to just sit in a cafe and watch the world go by. That's the real Nawlin's experience!

Or visit the quirky little shops that are quickly disappearing in chain-store America. Stand around in Pirate's Alley and contemplate the Yo-Ho-Ho lifestyle. And do NOT have beignets in the mall or enter the Jax Brewery complex for any reason. The real New Orleans is outside! Have fun!

Travel the World for Free and Make a Huge Income! Ask me how - [email protected]

bkluvsNola

A couple of points. mmouse52, alligators are cold-blooded, which means they rely on hot sunshine to warm their bodies up. The hotter they get, the more active and "feisty" they get. In the winter, the water is warmer than the air, so they regulate their body temperature by submerging themselves underwater for up to 24 hours before getting a breath of air and then they repeat the process. If we have a rare 80+ degree day in the winter, they will surface and bake themselves in the sun, but the best time to view the gators is when the weather is warm. Everything will be greener then as well.

However, that being said, if you have never seen a swamp, you'll still find it interesting and many birds winter down here. However, to me, it's all about the gators and the greenery, so that's why I recommend skipping that. Do a plantation tour, bonfires on the levee, Celebration in the Oaks, or other seasonal things. You can only do those things this time of year...

bkluvsNola

RubyEuropa,

Great ideas, but I had one minor point. The St. Charles' streetcar line out to the Garden District will not be running in December, but there is a bus line currently running in its place. Not romantic but functional. I recommend cabbing it for that reason.

ccolor

Poppy's Grill has closed, but there is a place called Yo Mama's that is wonderful! Also, Petunia's is great for food in the Quarter.

http://www.yomamasneworleans.com/
http://www.petuniasrestaurant.com/

We went on a tour of the plantations instead of renting a car and it was nice to catch a nap on the way back to the hotel. There's so much to see and do that sleeping was put on the back shelf for a while.

Have fun!!

lazydays

I live in N.O. Several people have mentioned "celebration in the oaks" in City Park. Please be aware that it still is a very scaled down version of its pre-K grandeur. This year, like last, is only a walking tour through the Botanical Gardens. Don't get me wrong, it will be beautiful, but not the spectacular event that it was pre-K. It's expected to be back to normal for X-mas 2007.

Chilepepper

Hi yotefan37. You are missing something very important!!! You should definitely do a Greyline Tour called Southern Comfort Walking Tour! My husband and I have been going to N'Awlins for about 7 years now (usually once a year) and our last time there (Easter '05) we learned the most history on that tour. Very fun and entertaining. They take you to some of the most historic restaurants/bars and give you a great history of the Spanish and French, Pirate Lafitte and Napolean. Loved it.

You are staying in a GREAT hotel - the Bourbon Orleans is the MOST HAUNTED hotel in New Orleans (we had a strange experience there). It is right on the corner of where "Boys Town" begins, so if you turn right on Bourbon, you can get quite the eyefull! :0)

The Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone is great, also. As well as Acme Oyster House, and all the others you mentioned! I would also try Tujaques if I were you. They only make a limited menu, and everything is great.
Have a blast. And I recommend the Tropical Isle (I think that is the name) on Bourbon - where they sell Hand Grenade drinks -- Big Al Carson and his band are the house band -- excellent. . . so are the grenades, from what I remember . . . it's a little fuzzy . . .

jgarvey

Hubby and I are both N.O. natives and both of our families still live there. Also--we just returned from stepdaughter's wedding, so I am chock full of old and updated information. Ask away if you have any specific questions. If you want a real native New Orleans eating experience--here are a couple of our favorites when we go home, although both will require a taxi if you are in the French Quarter.

Liuzza's on Bienville St. and Liuzza's by the Fairgrounds (Race Track near City Park.) At the first Liuzza's the daily menu is on a blackboard; great local cooks in the Kitchen. Be sure to order Abita Beer in a frosty mug, onion rings, and either a shrimp or oyster po-boy. Family joke: I once picked up a fried shrimp from the floor--it had fallen off my sandwich--and ate it gladly in front of everyone. No shame when it comes to Liuzza's fried shrimp!

The 2nd Liuzza's (Fairgrounds)--famous for the gumbo, and I agree, since I make the real deal myself. Real authentic neighborhood restaurants! Just look at the people who are in there having lunch. You can never make a mistake if you go where the locals go.

Last (though I do have more)--R & O's in Bucktown. Again, you have to take a taxi. They are now on a limited menu, but everything is still as I remembered--except there was no fried crawfish pie (talk about gilding the lily!)or fried dill pickles. You know--we do fry everything in the South!!

For breakfast, take a streetcar and go to the Camelia Grill. Be sure to order the frosty and delicious chocolate milk! Also great hamburgers.

Fun for the girls: go get your own unique brand of perfume mixed and named just for you. Your formula will be registered in a book and never made again for anyone else. This place is in the quarter, on Bourbon St.) and you must make an appointment. While there, check out some of their oldest and most popular scents--formulas brought from Paris over a hundred years ago. My favorites are Koos-Koos, Pluie (Rain), and Sweet Olive. I once had a man try to pick me up in Jock-e-Moe's (check out this restaurant too!!) while he was with his girlfriend, on the first night that I wore Koos-Koos. He would't go away and said it was the perfume!! I believed him because I am in my 60s!

Well, I can't go on. I'm getting too homesick. Write to me for more info or answers to your questions about New Orleans. I LOVE to talk about my beautiful though tattered city.

Grcxx3

Is Camelia Grill open?? I had heard a rumor that is was not going to re-open.

I second R&Os! Haven't been there for years (used to live just down the street from there). We usually hit Franky & Johnny's uptown.

For a crawfish (or meat) pie - try the zoo. The restaurant at the cajun section has them.