I've rethought my early September itinerary - I hope I can still get some comments from the more experienced Alaska travellers (and residents).

Please feel free to pick this itinerary apart - that's why I'm posting!

3 nights Juneau - whalewatching and relaxation after international flights
fly to Fairbanks
3 nights Fairbanks
train to Denali
3 nights Denali
train to Anchorage
2 nights Anchorage - a day to hang out before going on to Katmai NP
fly to Brooks Lodge for 1 night
fly back to Anchorage for 1 or 2 nights before flying home

I really want to see the far north, which is why I've built in time in Fairbanks, and having taken in earlier comments I've dropped Seward and have added in Denali, which I really don't want to miss.

What do you think?

I recall you not wanting to rent cars, but in Fairbanks, you really need one, especially if your priority is northern lights. You have no viewing in the city and will either need a good lodging out of town- again won't be on any public transportation route. Or the ability to drive out at night. (my favorite spot for good viewing is from the Steese, over the hill from the Chena Hot Springs exit. All attractions are spread out with poor public transportation option. Cabs can get costly. My advice would be to arrange a car service, I know they have them for the Asian visitors. You may want to consider an overnight in Talkeetna, will be your only look at a small funky Alaska town. Excellent McKinley fightseeing options.

Thanks BudgetQueen - the reason I won't be renting a car is because I don't drive. In your opinion is it still worth going to Fairbanks without having your own transport?

Any comments on the rest of the itinerary? Talkeetna sounds a good idea, I had thought of stopping off there. Does it get very crowded there or is it still a quiet spot?

Without car I wouldn't recommend staying in Fairbanks for 3 nights. Stay one night in Seward. It is such a spectacular train ride from Anchorage. Scenery is so different than from Fairbanks to Anchorage

If your priority is northern lights, you need Fairbanks, but as I suggest, you need to research and find a car service available for you there. You can stay outside of Fairbanks, some nice lodges/B&B;s on the Chena Hot Springs Road and spend the time there? Yes Talkeetna is a very worthwhile and always stop for me. Don't worry about the crowds. The Seward recommendation is a good one if you forego Fairbanks. This is the most scenic portion of the Alaska RR and plenty to do in Seward. At least 1 overnight is needed.