A short jaunt through mostly Maine
Aug 29th, 2010, 05:18 AM
#1
Original Poster
A short jaunt through mostly Maine
It's been a hot and stressful summer, and with not much time planning this trip, we (or really me) decided a week in Maine would be just the thing to relax a bit. Hubby and I had traveled to Maine twice before - but both times, no more recently than 15 years ago.
So with only a week, and a long drive from NYC, I decided that mid-coast Maine would fit the bill. We stopped in Portsmouth, NH; East Boothbay, Maine; Monhegan Island; and Glen Cove, Maine; returning via Concord, Mass.
We are a couple in our 50s and early 60s, budget/frugal travelers, with a youthful spirit. Interacting with people, getting a flavor of the local area, and eating well but not high end are our priorities. We left on Saturday August 21 and returned a week later.
We spent the first night in Portsmouth, NH, primarily for a stopover point, with time to shop in Kittery, Maine. I brought along the Fodors guide to coastal Maine, which I found helpful. We stayed in America's Best Inns (Portsmouth), which was reasonably-priced, convenient, and not bad and absolutely not memorable.
We checked out the Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier in Kittery Point, Maine, one of Travel & Leisure's 10 best Lobster shacks, but on Saturday night - before 6pm, even! - the traffic up and down the road was unbelievable, and we gave up. We ended up going to Warren's Lobster Restaurant, Kittery Point, described as a "destination restaurant". We had steamers, and I had a lobster dinner - both of which were great, if slightly pricey. Hubby had a completely unmemorable dinner (teriyaki something or other). The lesson: have the basic stuff, and it's excellent - but don't get all fancy wth your food.
Sunday morning we explored Portsmouth, NH. What a treat that was! A lovely port, a wonderful walk along the water, great old & historic buildings, friendly folk - well worth a stop here for a few hours.
Our next stop is East Boothbay, Maine, where we'll be staying in Ocean Point Inn. But before we take off, the business of shopping is at hand.
Off to the Kittery outlets! Shopping, though, was a complete waste of time. 15 years ago, we found good bargains, especially in shoes. Now the mall experience is ubiquitous - and I do better in discount shopping in NYC. Another lesson learned. We left after I explored Liz Claiborne (awfully dowdy stuff, I have to say) and a few other stores - athough hubby did find a good jacket at Columbia Sportswear - the experience was definitely not worth the time spent.
My original intent was to stop & shop at LL Bean on the way back, but hubby thought it best that I got my shopping jones exhausted early in the trip, so after the abortive stop at Kittery, we decided to check Freeport out on our way north.
Another shopping nightmare! Freeport is wall to wall mall stores, and LL Bean is the anchor for them all. Once upon a time, there were bargains to be had - but now in the advent of internet shopping, there's nothing that can't be found and ordered on line more easily, it seems. A look around and we were done there.
Then the long drive to East Boothbay, Maine, where we stayed in Ocean Point Inn for 2 nights. Yes, that drive along Route 1 can feel interminable, although on Sunday, I felt relieved we were going north - the traffic south as we approached Red's Eats in Wiscasset was almost at a stand-still.
Ocean Point Inn was delightful! We had a small room in one of the many cottages with a deck and a view of the ocean. The Inn is beautifully sited with views of the ocean from the lodge and most of its cottages. And that rocky Maine coast right out the door. We took some great long walks along the water, clambering on the rocks.
The location is superb for views and vistas - the only downside is that you need to drive a ways to get to the town. We didn't feel like a long drive to town for dinner, so both nights, we ate at the Inn. Dinner in the restaurant was excellent - Michael had lobster, and I had delicious scallops. The next night, we ate in the bar - and that, too, was surprisingly good (RICH and delicious chowder - my arteries were crying after the rich creamy dish! Con tinental breakfast was included, and for $6/person, they served a very filling hot breakfast.
The weather was changeable the one full day we were there. We saw sun, rain, clouds, and managed to have a full and terrific day. We started in Boothbay Harbor - crowded, yes, though with a pretty town and harbor, although not where we wanted to spend more than an hour or so. Had good coffee at the excellent Moosehead Coffee & Ice Cream café.
Off to Porter Preserve, on Barters Island, which is part of the Boothbay Regional Land Trust, a conservation organization. We wandered along a mile-long wooded trail, which also had lovely views along the water:
http://www.bbrlt.org/bbrlt_properties_porter.html
The day was not yet done, and the rain was still mild, we stopped at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Another great stop, with an extensive range of amazing gardens. We were both impressed by the size of the Gardens. You can spend several hours exploring them, walking different trails. Well worth the visit.
http://www.mainegardens.org/
On the way back, we stopped at the Boothbay Lobster Wharf for a lobster roll and fried clam roll. Michael's fried clam roll was the winner here - very generous sandwich, lightly fried and tender clams. I'm wishing I could have one right now. Delicious.
On Tuesday afternoon, we took the ferry to Monhegan Island from Port Clyde. I had originally planned to take the ferry from Boothbay Harbor, but Port Clyde had more sailings a day between the islands, which gave more options for going and returning.
The weather this week was definitely changeable - sunny one minute, grey and windy, rainy the next. The first half of the hour-long ride was smooth, but then it got very, very choppy. I was glad for the Bonine that I took - even with the travel pills, I felt pretty wiped out. But we finally arrived, and made it in one piece.
(continued)
So with only a week, and a long drive from NYC, I decided that mid-coast Maine would fit the bill. We stopped in Portsmouth, NH; East Boothbay, Maine; Monhegan Island; and Glen Cove, Maine; returning via Concord, Mass.
We are a couple in our 50s and early 60s, budget/frugal travelers, with a youthful spirit. Interacting with people, getting a flavor of the local area, and eating well but not high end are our priorities. We left on Saturday August 21 and returned a week later.
We spent the first night in Portsmouth, NH, primarily for a stopover point, with time to shop in Kittery, Maine. I brought along the Fodors guide to coastal Maine, which I found helpful. We stayed in America's Best Inns (Portsmouth), which was reasonably-priced, convenient, and not bad and absolutely not memorable.
We checked out the Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier in Kittery Point, Maine, one of Travel & Leisure's 10 best Lobster shacks, but on Saturday night - before 6pm, even! - the traffic up and down the road was unbelievable, and we gave up. We ended up going to Warren's Lobster Restaurant, Kittery Point, described as a "destination restaurant". We had steamers, and I had a lobster dinner - both of which were great, if slightly pricey. Hubby had a completely unmemorable dinner (teriyaki something or other). The lesson: have the basic stuff, and it's excellent - but don't get all fancy wth your food.
Sunday morning we explored Portsmouth, NH. What a treat that was! A lovely port, a wonderful walk along the water, great old & historic buildings, friendly folk - well worth a stop here for a few hours.
Our next stop is East Boothbay, Maine, where we'll be staying in Ocean Point Inn. But before we take off, the business of shopping is at hand.
Off to the Kittery outlets! Shopping, though, was a complete waste of time. 15 years ago, we found good bargains, especially in shoes. Now the mall experience is ubiquitous - and I do better in discount shopping in NYC. Another lesson learned. We left after I explored Liz Claiborne (awfully dowdy stuff, I have to say) and a few other stores - athough hubby did find a good jacket at Columbia Sportswear - the experience was definitely not worth the time spent.
My original intent was to stop & shop at LL Bean on the way back, but hubby thought it best that I got my shopping jones exhausted early in the trip, so after the abortive stop at Kittery, we decided to check Freeport out on our way north.
Another shopping nightmare! Freeport is wall to wall mall stores, and LL Bean is the anchor for them all. Once upon a time, there were bargains to be had - but now in the advent of internet shopping, there's nothing that can't be found and ordered on line more easily, it seems. A look around and we were done there.
Then the long drive to East Boothbay, Maine, where we stayed in Ocean Point Inn for 2 nights. Yes, that drive along Route 1 can feel interminable, although on Sunday, I felt relieved we were going north - the traffic south as we approached Red's Eats in Wiscasset was almost at a stand-still.
Ocean Point Inn was delightful! We had a small room in one of the many cottages with a deck and a view of the ocean. The Inn is beautifully sited with views of the ocean from the lodge and most of its cottages. And that rocky Maine coast right out the door. We took some great long walks along the water, clambering on the rocks.
The location is superb for views and vistas - the only downside is that you need to drive a ways to get to the town. We didn't feel like a long drive to town for dinner, so both nights, we ate at the Inn. Dinner in the restaurant was excellent - Michael had lobster, and I had delicious scallops. The next night, we ate in the bar - and that, too, was surprisingly good (RICH and delicious chowder - my arteries were crying after the rich creamy dish! Con tinental breakfast was included, and for $6/person, they served a very filling hot breakfast.
The weather was changeable the one full day we were there. We saw sun, rain, clouds, and managed to have a full and terrific day. We started in Boothbay Harbor - crowded, yes, though with a pretty town and harbor, although not where we wanted to spend more than an hour or so. Had good coffee at the excellent Moosehead Coffee & Ice Cream café.
Off to Porter Preserve, on Barters Island, which is part of the Boothbay Regional Land Trust, a conservation organization. We wandered along a mile-long wooded trail, which also had lovely views along the water:
http://www.bbrlt.org/bbrlt_properties_porter.html
The day was not yet done, and the rain was still mild, we stopped at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Another great stop, with an extensive range of amazing gardens. We were both impressed by the size of the Gardens. You can spend several hours exploring them, walking different trails. Well worth the visit.
http://www.mainegardens.org/
On the way back, we stopped at the Boothbay Lobster Wharf for a lobster roll and fried clam roll. Michael's fried clam roll was the winner here - very generous sandwich, lightly fried and tender clams. I'm wishing I could have one right now. Delicious.
On Tuesday afternoon, we took the ferry to Monhegan Island from Port Clyde. I had originally planned to take the ferry from Boothbay Harbor, but Port Clyde had more sailings a day between the islands, which gave more options for going and returning.
The weather this week was definitely changeable - sunny one minute, grey and windy, rainy the next. The first half of the hour-long ride was smooth, but then it got very, very choppy. I was glad for the Bonine that I took - even with the travel pills, I felt pretty wiped out. But we finally arrived, and made it in one piece.
(continued)
Aug 29th, 2010, 05:20 AM
#2
Original Poster
We thoroughly enjoyed our entire trip - but the highlight of our trip was Monhegan Island. We stayed 2 nights and could've easily stayed longer. I couldn't imagine coming here for a day trip only - it's not just that the hour-long ferry ride is quite a trek to make twice in a day, but the "awayness" of Monhegan creeps up gradually. I can't imagine coming here for a few hours and getting the flavor of the place.
The island is small, and all buildings - homes, hotels, markets, shops - are within a short distance of the ferry. There are no cars, although a few residents have golf carts to get around, and there are a few trucks for businesses. The "town", such as it is, comprises of a few hotels, B&Bs, guesthouses, and a few shops catering primarily to the tourists. It's definitely not a fancy retreat. Although the few hotels/inns do have restaurants (quite good, in fact), there are only a few places to have casual meals. There are a few small markets, although prices are high because everything is ferried to the island.
But there is an ambience that is unique, and draws people back to the place. There is a large community of artists and others who live here for part of the year - many of whom have come regularly over the decades. And maybe it's the unpolished quality that appeals - it's not quite the pristine Maine that we experienced along the coast, but something much rougher. There are miles of hikes to explore, with stunning cliff hikes and vistas of dramatic waves crashing against rocks far below, with a feeling of being far away from everything. In fact, the island is about 12 miles from coast, and one truly is far out!
We stayed in Monhegan House, an old-style inn with simple rooms and shower stalls and toilets down the hall. Interestingly, electricity is relatively new to the Inn; we were there about 20 years ago when the rooms were lit with gas lamps only! Rain poured down one afternoon - and we spent a cozy few hours in the hotel, with its large ground floor lobby and warm & comfortable sitting area around a stone fireplace. This isn't a place for everyone, but it's a comfortable place to stay. Great breakfast, too. We had dinner at Monhegan House, which was quite good, and, on the other night, we ate pizza at the Novelty, the shop behind the Inn that serves ice cream and take-out meals. Monhegan Island does have fancier lodgings, tho - the Island Inn (just up from the ferry) is definitely the place to be if you want a more elegant experience.
The island is small, and all buildings - homes, hotels, markets, shops - are within a short distance of the ferry. There are no cars, although a few residents have golf carts to get around, and there are a few trucks for businesses. The "town", such as it is, comprises of a few hotels, B&Bs, guesthouses, and a few shops catering primarily to the tourists. It's definitely not a fancy retreat. Although the few hotels/inns do have restaurants (quite good, in fact), there are only a few places to have casual meals. There are a few small markets, although prices are high because everything is ferried to the island.
But there is an ambience that is unique, and draws people back to the place. There is a large community of artists and others who live here for part of the year - many of whom have come regularly over the decades. And maybe it's the unpolished quality that appeals - it's not quite the pristine Maine that we experienced along the coast, but something much rougher. There are miles of hikes to explore, with stunning cliff hikes and vistas of dramatic waves crashing against rocks far below, with a feeling of being far away from everything. In fact, the island is about 12 miles from coast, and one truly is far out!
We stayed in Monhegan House, an old-style inn with simple rooms and shower stalls and toilets down the hall. Interestingly, electricity is relatively new to the Inn; we were there about 20 years ago when the rooms were lit with gas lamps only! Rain poured down one afternoon - and we spent a cozy few hours in the hotel, with its large ground floor lobby and warm & comfortable sitting area around a stone fireplace. This isn't a place for everyone, but it's a comfortable place to stay. Great breakfast, too. We had dinner at Monhegan House, which was quite good, and, on the other night, we ate pizza at the Novelty, the shop behind the Inn that serves ice cream and take-out meals. Monhegan Island does have fancier lodgings, tho - the Island Inn (just up from the ferry) is definitely the place to be if you want a more elegant experience.
Aug 29th, 2010, 05:21 AM
#3
Original Poster
The ferry trip back to Port Clyde was smooth sailing on a bright afternoon. From there, we stopped first at Marshall Point Lighthouse, a short drive from the ferry, then on to Waterman's for lobster dinner - wonderful! Food was great, sitting on the dock overlooking the water - priceless!
We stopped in Rockland - a charming town, which looked like a beautiful 19th century historic town with 21st century appeal: good restaurants, shopping, and of course, the Farnsworth Art Museum. Maybe we'll get back there someday to experience what the town offers....
We stayed in Ledges by the Bay in Glen Cove, a few miles north of Rockland. A great motel on Route 1, with a beautiful siting overlooking Penobscot Bay, our kingsized room (#32) was on the second floor and was as large as my Manhattan apartment (well, almost). I could've easily stayed on the balcony all evening long. This stop was really an afterthought, just an excuse to see the towns and have one more night along the water before heading home. The lodging was great, although it's definitely a few miles to the nearest town north or south along route 1. We were tired after our long day and ended up in a MacDonald's because we didn't feel like making the effort to drive into town.
The next morning, we stopped in Camden for coffee and to stroll the town. Now I see why it's called the "prettiest town in Maine" - it is lovely, with a great harbor as well.
From there, we began our trek home. Since my original plan to stop near Freeport was no longer necessary, we were free to travel closer to home as our mid-point stop. But where? Michael wanted to drive further than Portland and Boston for one night was both expensive and overwhelming. Aha! Michael suggested Concord/Lexington for a stop that would be about mid-way home. Thanks to WiFi, I was able to quickly check TripAdvisor and made reservations at the Concord Best Western.
We loved Concord! We loved the the beautiful historic town and the intersection of both literary and revolutionary history. First, we saw several of the homes of the well-known Concord writers (Emerson, Alcott, Hawthorne); visited the Authors' Ridge in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetary, the burial place of Thoreau & the above-named authors); and, the next morning, walked around Walden Pond. Very moving to witness - I was especially touched by Louisa May Alcott's grave, and noticed that someone left her a ballpoint pen (but no lapdock computer!).
And the revolutionary history - we visited the North Bridge, the site of "the shot heard round the world", in the Minute Man National Historic Park, and then followed the Battle Road trail to Lexington. There, we stopped by the Village Green, home to the first battle of the American Revolution and chatted with members of today's Acton Minutemen, a contemporary group who dress up in historic costume and "bring history to life". The trip to Concord and Lexington wrapped up our week away perfectly - the satisfaction of the final stop was unexpected.
We stopped in Rockland - a charming town, which looked like a beautiful 19th century historic town with 21st century appeal: good restaurants, shopping, and of course, the Farnsworth Art Museum. Maybe we'll get back there someday to experience what the town offers....
We stayed in Ledges by the Bay in Glen Cove, a few miles north of Rockland. A great motel on Route 1, with a beautiful siting overlooking Penobscot Bay, our kingsized room (#32) was on the second floor and was as large as my Manhattan apartment (well, almost). I could've easily stayed on the balcony all evening long. This stop was really an afterthought, just an excuse to see the towns and have one more night along the water before heading home. The lodging was great, although it's definitely a few miles to the nearest town north or south along route 1. We were tired after our long day and ended up in a MacDonald's because we didn't feel like making the effort to drive into town.
The next morning, we stopped in Camden for coffee and to stroll the town. Now I see why it's called the "prettiest town in Maine" - it is lovely, with a great harbor as well.
From there, we began our trek home. Since my original plan to stop near Freeport was no longer necessary, we were free to travel closer to home as our mid-point stop. But where? Michael wanted to drive further than Portland and Boston for one night was both expensive and overwhelming. Aha! Michael suggested Concord/Lexington for a stop that would be about mid-way home. Thanks to WiFi, I was able to quickly check TripAdvisor and made reservations at the Concord Best Western.
We loved Concord! We loved the the beautiful historic town and the intersection of both literary and revolutionary history. First, we saw several of the homes of the well-known Concord writers (Emerson, Alcott, Hawthorne); visited the Authors' Ridge in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetary, the burial place of Thoreau & the above-named authors); and, the next morning, walked around Walden Pond. Very moving to witness - I was especially touched by Louisa May Alcott's grave, and noticed that someone left her a ballpoint pen (but no lapdock computer!).
And the revolutionary history - we visited the North Bridge, the site of "the shot heard round the world", in the Minute Man National Historic Park, and then followed the Battle Road trail to Lexington. There, we stopped by the Village Green, home to the first battle of the American Revolution and chatted with members of today's Acton Minutemen, a contemporary group who dress up in historic costume and "bring history to life". The trip to Concord and Lexington wrapped up our week away perfectly - the satisfaction of the final stop was unexpected.
Aug 29th, 2010, 11:00 AM
#6
Original Poster
Thank you! I got a lot of great ideas from this board, and love to "give back" by sharing my own travel experience. And it's a selfish pleasure when others actually enjoy reading what I have to say!
Paule
Paule
Aug 29th, 2010, 11:42 AM
#9
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There was a daytrip report on Mohegan that was very entertaining. Putting that report and your report side by side won me over that a trip to that island requires at least one or two nights to adjust to the vibe.
Aug 29th, 2010, 03:15 PM
#10
Original Poster
Glad that my report helped a little of your planning, plr.
LittleWing, I saw that day trip report and, even though we had been to Monhegan many years ago, I was having mixed feelings about scheduling the visit this time. We were really glad we did go - but I think you're right, that the trip really deserves at least an overnight.
Paule
LittleWing, I saw that day trip report and, even though we had been to Monhegan many years ago, I was having mixed feelings about scheduling the visit this time. We were really glad we did go - but I think you're right, that the trip really deserves at least an overnight.
Paule
Aug 30th, 2010, 11:28 AM
#12
Original Poster
Thanks, dfrostnh. I read through your posts and found them helpful when planning my trip. I did remember you writing about Waterman's, and I definitely made an effort to get there for lobster and blueberry pie!
Paule
Paule
Aug 30th, 2010, 02:53 PM
#13
Enjoyed your trip report. I'm just back from a week-end trip to Maine and wish I had seen it before I left.
We "winged-it" and had some regrets about our day trip to Boothbay. I would like to have gone to Monhegan, but we found only one boat and that had already left. We never even thought to look elsewhere. Now I know!
We "winged-it" and had some regrets about our day trip to Boothbay. I would like to have gone to Monhegan, but we found only one boat and that had already left. We never even thought to look elsewhere. Now I know!
Sep 27th, 2010, 05:46 AM
#14
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Progol,thanks for a great report. Just back from a trip to visit friends in Maine and already I want to go back. Also glad to read about your stop in Lexington/Concord; Concord is a place I visit often.
Oct 4th, 2010, 11:40 AM
#15
Original Poster
Thanks, Jackie and irishface!
So interesting the things that stick with you - Concord has lingered in my memory weeks after we are back. I think the intersection of revolutionary and literary history makes it so worthwhile for so many reasons. I will definitely go back there. We liked the intimacy of the town as well.
So interesting the things that stick with you - Concord has lingered in my memory weeks after we are back. I think the intersection of revolutionary and literary history makes it so worthwhile for so many reasons. I will definitely go back there. We liked the intimacy of the town as well.
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