Here we are at last, having the REAL BEACH EXPERIENCE (fabulous!) in Indian Shores, Florida. Red Tide was here toward the end of last week, but by the time we arrived on Saturday (just to check things out ... no reservations), the beach/water was beautiful. Sand Glo Villas, where we stayed last year, had vacancies ... and we made the decision to stay, since we were allowed to reserve day to day, in case the RT returned.

Our first night, we were in a 1BR gulf-front, where a faucet in the bath needed repairing, AND I hated the fishbowl atmosphere of the ground-floor unit. The rinse-off was almost right in front of our sliding doors, so I could see people coming and going more often than I cared to. That wouldn't bother many people, and if you had children running in and out to the sand, it would be great, but not for me.

On Sunday, Kat, the owner, moved us into a second floor, gulf-view unit (small property, only 11,) in the newer building in the section of the property that I like best. It's very private, and a great deal, really ... a couple of hundred per week less than the G/F, although that wasn't the motivating factor in our moving.

We walk down the stairs, go through a huge, open breezeway/patio area (under the 2BR- apts.,) and we're on the beach, which is GORGEOUS. Kat has gas grills, beach toys, chairs & tables and a swing out there, umbrellas, beach towels you can pick up at the office, kayaks, a laundry room. You name it ... she has it for you, with a smile. No maid service, but fresh towels everyday, daily paper and a continental breakfast in the breezeway on Sundays, sometimes treats at your door during the week. If you're interested, see sandglo.com.

She allows pets, which is why we initially came here (thank you, Beth from Hibiscus House on Fodors!!! ) but the place is so clean, you'd never know it! It's not a luxurious place, but it's very nice and has everything most of us need.

Last year, we stayed here ... but Red Tide was so bad that we could never use this beach, had to drive to Honeymoon Island/Caladesi, visit St. Petersburg, do other things ... and had a wonderful time doing it. BUT this is the best, being able to walk right from our condo into that beautiful emerald water, strolling back at lunchtime to make sandwiches to take down with the Coronas (wrapped in kitchen towels! ) We've done this for FOUR DAYS, which makes for a very boring trip report!!!

Now ... we have managed to leave the premises a few times. On Saturday, we ate lunch at PJ's. We'd had fried seafood there last year which was really good. This time, I had a shrimp salad sandwich, my DH had the grilled grouper sandwich ... and they were both just okay ... would only order fried seafood there next time. I think that's their "thing." We stopped at Mickey Quinn's for a beer, and watched a little of both the NC State and Carolina football games (NO, I don't want to discuss it .. and don't even get me started on the Panthers Sunday! ) This is a "smoking" bar where I wouldn't usually go, but this place is nice, great bartender, an open, airy-type bar, and the ventilation seemed to be great. There's a game room to the side, and lots of TVs.

Saturday night, we discovered a jewel ... Villa Gallaci, a family-owned/run Italian restaurant in Indian Rocks. What fabulous, fresh food! YUM ... Luigi, the son of the owner, greeted us at the door, then came over to ask how our food was during the meal, and shook my hand as we were leaving, asking us to come back! Wow ... you don't get much of that anymore. I had Rigatoni Arrabiata (pasta, huge shrimp, tomatoes, garlic, black olives), and my husband had one of their specials ... pasta tubes stuffed with veal, spinach and ricotta. A house salad came with these, with their own house dressing. The bread and dipping oil was the best ... We split a chocolate cannoli, made there, as fresh as could be, and my DH loved it. It was very authentic and had citron in it, which I don't care for, so I would not get it again for myself. They make their own Tiramisu, so that will be on my plate next time! We split a carafe of wine, very reasonable, and the coffee was excllent. Don't walk ... RUN to this place, if you get a chance. Loved it! Bill before tip ... about $61!

Sunday afternoon, we were tired from moving from one condo to the other, didn't want to eat dinner out, so we went to Publix to stock up on supplies, and bought their Italian subs to eat while we drank my DH's wonderful Margaritas, and watched Roger beat Andy. Family who live here in Florida always rave about Publix subs, say you can't beat them. Now I agree! They were smashingly good, and I will get them again.

Monday night, we ate at Shell's Seafood, Redington beach. I have to say that I wasn't impressed, the best thing being their cole slaw with fruit in it. My DH and I split their Dockside sampler with fried calamari, bay scallops, coconut shrimp, fried shrimp and whitefish. The food was not truly hot when it came out, I didn't like their coconut shrimp AT ALL ... tasted like the coconut on Zag-Nut candy. The calamari and white fish was the best thing on the plate. The bread was horrible ... I had a cup of lobster bisque, DH had clam chowder ... they were both better than the actual dinner. Would not go back there!

Last night was supposed to be shrimp salad on our deck, made by MOI. However, the shrimp we'd bought at Albertson's were BAD! I'd never gotten bad shrimp before but there was no doubt when you opened that bag ... YUK!!! So that went back last night, and we traveled on to .............

GUPPY'S!!! What a wonderful restaurant. I loved this place last year, and we had planned to go another night. Fabulous bread and dipping oil .... My DH had their almond/coconut shrimp, which is howlingly good, and I had a shrimp/feta cheese/sun-dried tomato/black olive dish in cream sauce over fried green tomatoes ... and I cannot find the words to tell you how good that stuff was! OMG!!!!!!!! I wanted dessert ... but I just couldn't. So full .. but the coffee was excellent. If you've not been to Guppy's, just go! I think it is SO reasonable for the quality and service, also. Before tip, I think the bill was about $50-some, including a beer and a glass of wine.

We will stay here at least through next Monday, maybe longer, as long as R.T. stays away.

Basically, we are floating/splashing in gorgeous emerald green water under the warm sun, taking long walks on the white sandy beach (practically all to ourselves at times), getting to know some of our neighbors here (some European, some young families ... I feel like I'm in a Merchant-Ivory movie at times! ) HOW BORING IS THAT!!!

Today we ARE rousing ourselves, going to John's Pass, catching the Big Blue Boat dolphin-cruise, which we've never done before, so am excited about that. I got a bit too much sun yesterday so we won't go in the water until late afternoon after the cruise. Tonight, my husband is doing some kind of 'wurst on the grill here, and forcing me to drink more of his Margaritas ...

We have about five more days here, at least, one of which will definitely be spent going to Caladesi, then Tarpon Springs for a Greek dinner. Another day, we'll go into St. Petersburg for shopping on the Pier (great shops), and lunch at Coconuts, with the great view.

May "send you another postcard" before I leave ... this one is dedicated to all my Florida buddies, who patiently answer my questions EVERYTIME! (Wayne, Joan, TandooriGirl, OO ... used to be FL )

Thank you, everyone!!! Now I'm off to cruise ...

Glad you are having such a great time!

Hi Bonnie! I'm so glad this trip has been great, that you aren't scrambling to find areas that haven't been affected by red tide. Just think...you may never have gotten to Caladesi last year had it not been for red tide, so there was a silver lining to that cloud.

I was asking about you on the board Tuesday, thinking you were in FL then. Did you know there was a 6.0 earthquake 260+ miles southwest of Tampa, centered in the Gulf?? I thought for sure if you felt that, you'd fling your bags in the trunk, head out and never return to Tampa Bay.

Have a great trip, take a walk and have a margarita for me, OK? Oh..before you go, you must go to Woody's (7308 Sunset Way, St Pete Beach) for drinks in the late afternoon. We would be there most Sundays after getting in from sailing. Sit at one of the picnic tables outside and watch the boats come into the Pass. Food isn't so hot so stick with appetizers....wings or smoked fish and crackers are good, and listen to whomever is playing that afternoon. Ah...GREAT ambiance, and the best people watching around.

How delightful, bonniebroad! It all sounds so very relaxing. And a dolphin cruise? How fun!

OO, my RUDE husband swears the earthquake happened because I slipped on a slight sand-bank a few minutes before, and landed on my bottom (not to worry, a soft landing!) We were in the water when another lady came in, and asked if we knew an earthquake had happened about 30 minutes before.

OO, I will always be grateful that you told me to go to Caladesi last year ... which I think must be what Heaven is like! I don't regret a moment of our time here last summer, though the R. T. decided to visit "our beach" for the week. My basic philosophy is to have a good time, no matter WHAT (within reason), and your advice last year was so helpful!

Unfortunately, right after I posted this morning, my DH came back from his walk to tell me that he felt (in his throad) and smelled R. T. in the air. When we just came back from our cruise, you could feel it, both at John's Pass and here in Indian Shores. If it hangs around, we will do Caladesi Island and Tarpon Springs tomorrow, St. Petersburg with it's Pier and museums Friday, and head north on Saturday. I've never been to Beaufort, SC, and would like to stop there for a couple of nights, then maybe two nights in Charleston. WHAT COULD BE BAD ABOUT THAT, HUH???

Thank you, GoT! We are having such fun, except when I bite down on my sunburned lips ... I've never done that before ... burned my lips, so thank God for Banana Boat Aloe Vera with E Lip Balm!!! My lower lip is swollen, looks like I've had Botox!!! (And it's not a bit sexy! )

Kopp, the dolphin cruise was fun. We didn't see a pod, but we did see two single males (at different times) out for a romp ... We love going out on a boat for any reason, so though I'd like to have seen more dolphins, I enjoyed what we did see.

For lunch before the cruise, we had a Clam Dog on the John's Pass Boardwalk at Tom & Jerry's ... dee-lish! When we came back, we had homemade ice cream at Sugar Daddy's Sweet Shoppe on the 'Walk; mine was a scoop of butter pecan, and a scoop of rum raisin in a waffle cone. DH had butter pecan and cappucino espresso chip in a cup. YUM!!!

Dinner, I'm not sure yet .... maybe Villa Gallaci again, trying the eggplant parmigiana ... a big weakness for me. But before that, a walk on the beach if the R. T. doesn't choke us too much.

Thanks for your replies, guys!

RED TIDE UPDATE 9/14 (for anyone considering coming to this beach): Still here this morning, after heavy rain last night. Definitely in the air (I'm coughing, nose running as soon as I hit the sand.) We've seen a couple of dead fish this morning. Not a day to get in the water here. May try Caladesi but heard yesterday that some R.T. had been detected on Honeymoon Island ...... Oh, well, maybe a good day for St. Petersburg and shopping on the Pier!

I'm sorry Bonnie! What luck, but see, you are such a local now you can tell Red Tide is beginning without even turning on the TV. Unfortunately, if it's around Honeymoon Island, it's around Caladesi too, the two are so close to each other.

Have you been to the Dali Museum yet? It is terrific. There's a nice drive for house peeping (hows that for a new term) downtown St Pete as well. Head north from the Pier along the water, wind around the front of the Vinoy (might be worth an afternoon drink on their veranda, it's a beautiful Old Florida hotel same era as the Don CeSar). Keep the water to your right, past the marina--I think it's North Shore Drive as it goes past the Vinoy. A short distance after the Vinoy, the road makes a sharp left and becomes Coffee Pot Blvd, with some pretty old homes along there. Make a right on Snell Isle Blvd and go over the little bridge make another right and once again, wind around keeping the water on your right. There's a mixture of big old homes, tiny old homes (worth a fortune) and homes that had been tear-downs and rebuilds. Interesting house-peeping, and a decent way to play in downtown St Pete and not be bothered that there's red tide.

We'll be looking for more postcards.

Oh...our DD's in-laws live in Beaufort. If you go, the area to head to is called "The Point". It's small, but lovely, sort of Charleston style homes but in a rural setting. If you want to see a pretty wild beach while you are there, make the drive out to Hunting Island State Park. Vietnam scenes from Forest Gump were shot out there. I love the marsh along the drive from Beaufort out to Hunting Island. Da*n I need to get back to the water!!

OO, don't forget the beautiful ACE Basin between Beaufort and Charleston along Hwy 17!

OO, tell your rude hubby (term of endearment) that there is no way your butt caused the quake because you are a lean, mean, athletic machine!

I meant BB tell your hubby not OO!

OO and GoT, okay .... plan for the day... (I'm still laughing at your description of me, GoT, and my hubby roared ... I'm afraid my LMM days are over ... but I still manage!)

We're going to the aquarium in Clearwater (we've never been in one we didn't enjoy ... from the tiniest to the one on the harbor in Baltimore.) Then on to Tarpon Springs for a big lunch, Greek-style. OO, I called Honeymoon Island State Park this morning, and they confirmed that there's some RT both on Caladesi & H.I.
We will do St. Petersburg tomorrow so I am making notes of your house-peeping tour, and we will definitely do that! Have not been to the Dali Museum so will have to think about going. Also appreciate your advice on Beaufort ... I am looking at the Old Point B&B there which fits right in with your recommendation! Have you heard of it? Looks very nice on the website, and has good reviews on TripAdvisor.

GoT, thanks for mentioning the Ace Basin ... we'll definitely add that to our must-do's!

Have a good day, ladies!

Hey all ... back again with two days to go in Indian Shores. We WERE able to go in the water yesterday, Red Tide barely there, so we delayed St. Petersburg until today. We spent the day at our beach, getting more sunburned (!!!!!!) and then had dinner at Villa Gallace again last night. Just terrific ... do go if you're in the area. DH had seafood with linguine, and I had eggplant parmigiana ...

Thursday was delightful ... discovering Clearwater Aquarium. Fell in love with the dolphins there, who have been rescued. Saw stringrays for the first time; *nurse sharks* and the biggest fish I've ever seen were fascinating, in a tank together. Mesmerizing ... could hardly tear ourselves away.

Then to Hella's in Tarpon Springs for our Greek luncheon, which was simply fabulous. If you love Greek food, you'll love their Dolmades, Moussaka, Gyros, Pastitsio. My husband had their broiled seafood, which was the BEST!

Today we roasted at lunch on top of The Pier in St. Petersburg at ChaCha Coconuts. We had a view but no breeze. Nutty me and nutty niece of mine each thought the other wanted to sit outside so were too foolish to suggest going inside to sit by the window with a water-view and A/C!!! The food was great (as were the Margaritas!) My niece had the coconut shrimp, the best I've had except at Outback. I had the Chicken Yucatan (chicken topped with cheese & bacon & tomatoes), my DH had the grouper done Mexican style, both had beans, rice and fried plaintains, all very yummy. If only it hadn't been 93 degrees, and us dim-witted!

OO, we did your house-peeping tour around St. Petersburg, and I picked out a couple to bid on when I win the new lottery in North Carolina. What a beautiful drive ..... Thanks for recommending it.

Tonight, we'll stay in the condo with my niece, and eat fresh shrimp from Publix. Tomorrow morning my husband will do a shelling tour to Shell Island, while I do laundry and prepare to go to Beaufort, SC (to the Hampton Inn ... no B&B worked out!) Monday morning. Tomorrow afternoon we'll spend on the beach, then out to Guppy's for one last meal before we head north. The beach is beautiful again today, with little sign that R.T. has been here, and I hope that will be true for our last full day tomorrow.

It's been a great visit ... I love Florida! Thanks to all of you who always answer my questions and make suggestions ...

Bonnie, my friend.....I'm so glad you're having a good time. I love Florida, too.

St. John's Pass is a fun place to do a little tourist shopping. I bought some Italian charms there last year but lost them before I got home.

Be sure to shuffle your feel while in the water. I stepped on a stingray last year in Treasure Island. I was extremely lucky that I didn't get stung!

Enjoy the remainder of your trip, and remember......GO SABRES!!!! (wink, wink)

Bonnie, I just found this - I was away on vacation the same time as you. I was upset on my return, because the ole RT come to town, I immediately thought of you. So sorry! What timing - but as usual you made the best of it!

Villa Gallace is good, isn't it? I forgot about that place! And next time you come, you def have to come to my place for shrimp - I'm dying to meet you - feel like I already know you!

Thanks for the postcard!

Hey there Miss Joan!!! You had mentioned you were going on vacation so I realized that's why I hadn't heard from you ... The thought crossed my mind while I was down there that if you replied on the thread, I would definitely ask you to meet us for a drink somewhere. We had a terrific time in Florida this year, and did have five great days in the water so I can't complain at all. We probably would have stayed another week though if RT had stayed away.

After my last post here, things changed a bit. We ended up that last Saturday night at Crabby Bill's in Indian Rocks for dinner, which I thought was just okay ... the crab/corn chowder was great, however. Wished I'd gone back to Guppy's! On Sunday, my husband tried to go on a ferry to Shell Island, but there wasn't one scheduled that late in September (brochure was not accurate.) So we ended up driving to the gorgeous Ft. De Soto for the first time ... now I know what all the brouhaha is about! Lovely! Only looked, though, as RT was there. Then we stopped at Sculley's at John's Pass for a late lunch ... ate inside because of the RT smell outside. One of the worst waitresses I've ever met, but my husband's pistachio-crusted grouper was one of the best things he's had in a long time. I'd had so much seafood that I went for an Angus cheeseburger, which was really good but not charred properly on the outside. Then on Monday, we left for Raleigh, decided not to stop in Beaufort, as we were just ready to be home since we couldn't be in the beautiful Gulf waters.

Joan, you are so sweet to invite me for shrimp!!! Careful, I may take you up on it next year!

BuffaloGirl, so good to hear from you!!! Have you had the ice cream from Sugar Daddy's??? YUM ... I have to admit that I'm hearing good things about your Sabres, but of course, I don't believe a word! GO 'CANES!!!!!!!!

Bonnie, it's a date!
We can turn it into a Fodor's GTG fer sure!

Yes, Joan ... we'll do that. That would be great fun.

(If you'll e-mail me at [email protected] sometime, I'd like to ask you a couple of "local" questions regarding what's going on with some of the condo rentals, etc. there, including the place we stayed in.)

BTW, Joan, hope you had a great vacation this year!