Rio to Santiago via Patagonia
Dec 20th, 2012, 08:19 AM
#123
Have enjoyed following you along and reliving wonderful memories of our trip. Like crellston San Martin was a favorite. Have to say was a bit disappointed in the 7 lakes drive -- maybe too much fantastic scenery preceded it. We figured the construction of the road might be completed in our lifetime or not. We had such beautiful weather and I appreciate it more given the weather you seen to have had upon occasion. Hope you got good views of the volcanoes.
Saw the goat asado in SM, but didn't partake.
Saw the goat asado in SM, but didn't partake.
Dec 20th, 2012, 09:47 AM
#124
Original Poster
Thursday arrival was pure chance, crellston, I just wanted to get home before the holiday rush started.
I had the same feeling, yestravel, the Seven Lakes didn't live up to the scenery further south. Perhaps a reason to start in the north rather than the south.
I did eat at Posta Criolla, but I ate steak. I like my meat medium rare, and it seemed that lamb (not to mention fish) was always overcooked for my taste. I also ate pizza at La Nonna, and my new favorite pollo y palta sandwich down near the pier.
Alas, the title for the Pucon piece will involve rain. Lots of it.
I had the same feeling, yestravel, the Seven Lakes didn't live up to the scenery further south. Perhaps a reason to start in the north rather than the south.
I did eat at Posta Criolla, but I ate steak. I like my meat medium rare, and it seemed that lamb (not to mention fish) was always overcooked for my taste. I also ate pizza at La Nonna, and my new favorite pollo y palta sandwich down near the pier.
Alas, the title for the Pucon piece will involve rain. Lots of it.
Dec 20th, 2012, 11:37 PM
#125
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Going north to south is probably a good idea. Unfortunately, to my continuing regret, we diverted to the east coast and Peninusular Valdez to see the whale and so missed a huge chunk of the west coast.
I can't recall the name of the restaurant I was thinking of but on checking my blog, it seems that huentetu may have been correct and it may have been lamb rather than goat. What I do recall is the impressive sight of these beasts being slowly roasted on vertical spits around a log fire in the window of the restaurant.
I agree Thursdaysd, overlooking of their amazing meat was a problem. I started out asking for what I thought was medium rare "a punto" this worked occasionally but then a Spanish friend kindly wrote out the various terms for me which helped a lot:
rare – rojo intenso y sangrante en el centro
medium rare – rosado con y bien jugoso
medium – a punto pero todavia jugoso
well done – bien cocida
I can't recall the name of the restaurant I was thinking of but on checking my blog, it seems that huentetu may have been correct and it may have been lamb rather than goat. What I do recall is the impressive sight of these beasts being slowly roasted on vertical spits around a log fire in the window of the restaurant.
I agree Thursdaysd, overlooking of their amazing meat was a problem. I started out asking for what I thought was medium rare "a punto" this worked occasionally but then a Spanish friend kindly wrote out the various terms for me which helped a lot:
rare – rojo intenso y sangrante en el centro
medium rare – rosado con y bien jugoso
medium – a punto pero todavia jugoso
well done – bien cocida
Dec 26th, 2012, 02:38 PM
#126
Original Poster
<b>November 27-30, 2012: Rained Out in Pucon</b>
Soaring to an average height of 13,000 feet, the Andes present a formidable barrier. You can cross, but only in certain places. I’d already traveled east to west from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, and west to east from Puerto Varas to Bariloche. Now I would go back west from San Martin to Pucon, partly on gravel, over the 3,600 foot Mamuil Malal pass. (I was saving the reportedly spectacular crossing from Santiago to Mendoza for my next trip.)
I hadn’t been able to find much information on the bus connections, and was saddened to learn, when I reached San Martin, that the one and only daily bus left at 6:00am. Still, the Wesley Hosteria provided me with a breakfast sandwich, and the rain held off while I trekked the six long blocks to the bus station. But as we climbed towards the pass I saw clouds ahead, and thought it unlikely we would see much of Volcan Lanin, which towers over the border. Turned out we had just a fugitive glimpse, as we shivered in the wind outside the border post.
I had hoped for more comfortable volcano viewing in Pucon. I had chosen to break my northward journey in Pucon in large part because of photos showing Volcan Villarica almost in the town. I had therefore reserved a room with a balcony and a straight-on view of the volcano at the Geronimo. I should have saved my money. I could see part of the volcano the day I arrived, and again the day I left, but not all of it, and in between all I could see were clouds. And rain. At one point the weather site I consulted claimed 60 inches would fall over the weekend.
Most people use Pucon as a base for energetic outdoor activities. Climbing Volcan Villarica. White water rafting. Hiking, cycling, riding, fishing. You name it, there’s probably an adventure outfitter in Pucon eager to help you do it. I certainly wasn’t planning on climbing the volcano, but I thought about some hiking in the National Park, a visit to some waterfalls, maybe the thermal baths. But not in the rain. Even the thermal baths were off limits, as I hadn’t brought a swimsuit, and couldn’t find one in town to fit me.
After I realized that the weather forecasts were right, and before I bought my bus ticket out, I considered cutting my stay short. But, just as when I planned this part of the trip, there was nowhere between Pucon and Valparaiso that seemed a good stopping off place. I was attracted by the wineries, but I expected to tour them from Valparaiso. There were more thermal spas on the way, but none seemed to have good public transport. The reports on the coastal cities had been discouraging. Chillan, with murals and an outdoor market, was the likeliest candidate, but lacked good accommodation, and would mean two long days on the bus instead of one long night.
So, I stayed on in Pucon. I found good coffee at the Cafe de P, and good company – along with tortilla soup and chicken and avocado sandwiches – at the American-owned Latitud 39. I took a look at yet-another-lake – as in San Martin, the town turned its back on the water front. I marveled at the number of outfitters cheek-by-jowl down the main street. And I spent a lot of time listening to ebooks and playing cards on my iPad.
Soaring to an average height of 13,000 feet, the Andes present a formidable barrier. You can cross, but only in certain places. I’d already traveled east to west from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, and west to east from Puerto Varas to Bariloche. Now I would go back west from San Martin to Pucon, partly on gravel, over the 3,600 foot Mamuil Malal pass. (I was saving the reportedly spectacular crossing from Santiago to Mendoza for my next trip.)
I hadn’t been able to find much information on the bus connections, and was saddened to learn, when I reached San Martin, that the one and only daily bus left at 6:00am. Still, the Wesley Hosteria provided me with a breakfast sandwich, and the rain held off while I trekked the six long blocks to the bus station. But as we climbed towards the pass I saw clouds ahead, and thought it unlikely we would see much of Volcan Lanin, which towers over the border. Turned out we had just a fugitive glimpse, as we shivered in the wind outside the border post.
I had hoped for more comfortable volcano viewing in Pucon. I had chosen to break my northward journey in Pucon in large part because of photos showing Volcan Villarica almost in the town. I had therefore reserved a room with a balcony and a straight-on view of the volcano at the Geronimo. I should have saved my money. I could see part of the volcano the day I arrived, and again the day I left, but not all of it, and in between all I could see were clouds. And rain. At one point the weather site I consulted claimed 60 inches would fall over the weekend.
Most people use Pucon as a base for energetic outdoor activities. Climbing Volcan Villarica. White water rafting. Hiking, cycling, riding, fishing. You name it, there’s probably an adventure outfitter in Pucon eager to help you do it. I certainly wasn’t planning on climbing the volcano, but I thought about some hiking in the National Park, a visit to some waterfalls, maybe the thermal baths. But not in the rain. Even the thermal baths were off limits, as I hadn’t brought a swimsuit, and couldn’t find one in town to fit me.
After I realized that the weather forecasts were right, and before I bought my bus ticket out, I considered cutting my stay short. But, just as when I planned this part of the trip, there was nowhere between Pucon and Valparaiso that seemed a good stopping off place. I was attracted by the wineries, but I expected to tour them from Valparaiso. There were more thermal spas on the way, but none seemed to have good public transport. The reports on the coastal cities had been discouraging. Chillan, with murals and an outdoor market, was the likeliest candidate, but lacked good accommodation, and would mean two long days on the bus instead of one long night.
So, I stayed on in Pucon. I found good coffee at the Cafe de P, and good company – along with tortilla soup and chicken and avocado sandwiches – at the American-owned Latitud 39. I took a look at yet-another-lake – as in San Martin, the town turned its back on the water front. I marveled at the number of outfitters cheek-by-jowl down the main street. And I spent a lot of time listening to ebooks and playing cards on my iPad.
Dec 29th, 2012, 02:04 PM
#127
Original Poster
<b>December 5-9, 2012: Valparaiso: The Good.</b>
I had heard, and read, a lot of good things about the long distance buses in South America, at least in the pricier classes. So I booked the best available class, salon cama, and boarded the bus to Valparaiso with some hope of a good night's sleep. I guess Pucon was too far off the main routes for the best buses, because I was really not impressed. For starters, no food was served (aside from a feeble attempt at breakfast), so I boarded with a pollo y palta from Latitud 39. Then, there was nowhere to put carry-on bags besides the floor, and the leg room was just too short for me to stretch out. At least the section was quiet, and I did get to sleep off and on. On balance, I'd say it was better than economy class on an airplane but worse than a couchette, never mind a sleeper, on a train.
Things improved when I got to my B&B in Valparaiso. The Yellow House provided not just the usual safe place to stash my bag, and coffee, but breakfast, and even more welcome, a shower in the shared bathroom. When the owner suggested I join a walking tour of the city I was in good enough shape to agree. The tour, led by a lively young Brazilian (Boris, who also teaches cooking classes), took us from the touristy main square to the fishing boats and market (and seriously photogenic sea lions and pelicans), on and off trams and buses and funiculars, up to murals and the best restaurant section, and down again, and provided plenty of information along with the sights. Including areas to avoid when walking alone.
Valparaiso, spread over many hills beside a sparkling bay, is a city that has much to like. (Provided you overlook the port area, which it is rather hard to do.) Architecture always has a lot to do with whether I like a city, and while my favorite Art Nouveau was in limited supply, the many brightly painted houses and a scattering of landmark buildings more than made up for it. The colorful metal buildings that had been crammed into one area of Buenos Aires were here splashed across multiple quarters. The Yellow House, where I was staying, could easily be picked out on its eastern hillside, below the Navy Museum, from down on the waterfront.
I spent one morning visiting the just reopened Palacio Baburizza. Although it houses the city's Belles Artes museum, I ignored the paintings but admired the architecture. It was even worth the trek uphill, made necessary because the relevant funicular had yet to reopen after the last earthquake. But even better was La Sebastiana, the Nobel prize-winning poet Naruda's Valparaiso home.
I reached La Sebastiana, perched on a hillside well above the bay, in a shared taxi that charged upwards at full throttle. Once there I was able to dodge the tour groups and absorb the house at my leisure. And between the magnificent views, and the magnificently quirky contents, it was worth every peso of the admission price. Unfortunately, photos weren't allowed inside.
While Valparaiso is a working city, just up the coast is Vina del Mar, the area's playground. While I had no intention of joining the crowd courting sunburn on the sands, I had a good time nonetheless. I started at the Archaeological Museum, where I was delighted to get a look at authentic moai without having to trek out to Easter Island. After rejecting a number of eating places (including a surprising nmber of US chains) I ate a leisurely (and expensive) lunch at waterfront El Parron with excellent views, and then walked south along the promenade to the 20th century Castillo Wulff. The interior of the castle wasn't much, but again the views were good. As were the views at the Sheraton, where I indulged in a caipirinha on the rear deck, overlooking yet another beach.
I finished my day at the beach in the botanical gardens, where I was sorry to find the Palacio Vergara closed for renovations. Then I was whisked back to Valparaiso on the excellent metro.
I had heard, and read, a lot of good things about the long distance buses in South America, at least in the pricier classes. So I booked the best available class, salon cama, and boarded the bus to Valparaiso with some hope of a good night's sleep. I guess Pucon was too far off the main routes for the best buses, because I was really not impressed. For starters, no food was served (aside from a feeble attempt at breakfast), so I boarded with a pollo y palta from Latitud 39. Then, there was nowhere to put carry-on bags besides the floor, and the leg room was just too short for me to stretch out. At least the section was quiet, and I did get to sleep off and on. On balance, I'd say it was better than economy class on an airplane but worse than a couchette, never mind a sleeper, on a train.
Things improved when I got to my B&B in Valparaiso. The Yellow House provided not just the usual safe place to stash my bag, and coffee, but breakfast, and even more welcome, a shower in the shared bathroom. When the owner suggested I join a walking tour of the city I was in good enough shape to agree. The tour, led by a lively young Brazilian (Boris, who also teaches cooking classes), took us from the touristy main square to the fishing boats and market (and seriously photogenic sea lions and pelicans), on and off trams and buses and funiculars, up to murals and the best restaurant section, and down again, and provided plenty of information along with the sights. Including areas to avoid when walking alone.
Valparaiso, spread over many hills beside a sparkling bay, is a city that has much to like. (Provided you overlook the port area, which it is rather hard to do.) Architecture always has a lot to do with whether I like a city, and while my favorite Art Nouveau was in limited supply, the many brightly painted houses and a scattering of landmark buildings more than made up for it. The colorful metal buildings that had been crammed into one area of Buenos Aires were here splashed across multiple quarters. The Yellow House, where I was staying, could easily be picked out on its eastern hillside, below the Navy Museum, from down on the waterfront.
I spent one morning visiting the just reopened Palacio Baburizza. Although it houses the city's Belles Artes museum, I ignored the paintings but admired the architecture. It was even worth the trek uphill, made necessary because the relevant funicular had yet to reopen after the last earthquake. But even better was La Sebastiana, the Nobel prize-winning poet Naruda's Valparaiso home.
I reached La Sebastiana, perched on a hillside well above the bay, in a shared taxi that charged upwards at full throttle. Once there I was able to dodge the tour groups and absorb the house at my leisure. And between the magnificent views, and the magnificently quirky contents, it was worth every peso of the admission price. Unfortunately, photos weren't allowed inside.
While Valparaiso is a working city, just up the coast is Vina del Mar, the area's playground. While I had no intention of joining the crowd courting sunburn on the sands, I had a good time nonetheless. I started at the Archaeological Museum, where I was delighted to get a look at authentic moai without having to trek out to Easter Island. After rejecting a number of eating places (including a surprising nmber of US chains) I ate a leisurely (and expensive) lunch at waterfront El Parron with excellent views, and then walked south along the promenade to the 20th century Castillo Wulff. The interior of the castle wasn't much, but again the views were good. As were the views at the Sheraton, where I indulged in a caipirinha on the rear deck, overlooking yet another beach.
I finished my day at the beach in the botanical gardens, where I was sorry to find the Palacio Vergara closed for renovations. Then I was whisked back to Valparaiso on the excellent metro.
Dec 29th, 2012, 02:52 PM
#128
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It sounds to me as if you got a semi-cama at best and even then they have luggage storage above your head for a small bag. Dinner is usually optional on that route and just about everyone opts out and brings a sandwich as it is no great shakes. Breakfast is just as bad.
It is a shame you had so much rain in Pucón. Actually soaking in a thermal pool while it rains is quite nice!
It is a shame you had so much rain in Pucón. Actually soaking in a thermal pool while it rains is quite nice!
Jan 2nd, 2013, 01:31 PM
#129
Original Poster
<b>December 7th, 2012: Valparaiso: The Not Good</b>
The walking tour of Valparaiso that the owner of the Yellow House had recommended had been so good I had little hesitation in signing up for another tour. I needed a tour for the wineries south of town, and while I had planned to visit Neruda's seaside house at Isla Negra by bus, I was OK with including it on the tour. A young couple who had also been staying at the Yellow House signed up for the same Friday tour. They had a flight out of Santiago that night, and the plan was for them to catch a bus after we visited the wineries.
Alas, Michael the German Pirate was no Boris. He apparently regarded guiding as a hobby rather than a job, although I know hobbyists who are far more engaged and efficient. The tour got off to an exceedingly slow start. We had not gone far before stopping at a house that one of Michael's friends was renovating. This was mostly an opportunity for him to visit with his friend, while we wandered round a building that was certainly in need of renovation, and was also stuffed with second-hand toys.
Then a drive through a mostly deserted seaside development was followed by a visit to a beautiful and also mostly deserted beach. I would have liked coffee at this point but the one functioning beach shack only offered cold drinks. Then we stopped at another house belonging to another of Michael's friends. Again, we hung around while Michael visited with his friend, after which we were shown the friend's "museum", of interest only to fans of model ships and stuffed animals (the ones in the Vina del Mar museum were better).
By the time we finally arrived in Isla Negra and had eaten lunch I was wondering why I had signed up for this odyssey, but so far I was better off than the other couple. Michael had just discovered that the bus they had planned to take wasn't running, and they would have to leave from Isla Negra and skip the wineries. Now, back when I was planning this trip, a poster on Fodors had warned me that the road between Valparaiso and Santiago would be closed from mid afternoon Friday December 7th to the evening of Saturday December 8th for a major religious procession. I had scheduled an extra night in Valparaiso to allow for it, and then forgotten the matter. So, a Fodors' poster knew about the annual closure, but a supposedly professional tour guide did not.
Michael went off to check on bus times, and we visited the house. Perhaps I should have settled for just one of Neruda's houses, as I found this one disappointing. The location, and the views, were indeed magnificent, but the rooms felt claustrophobic. Too many over-sized figureheads in the living room, for sure, and the ceilings seemed low. Afterwards we left the young couple, and their luggage, at a "bus stop" (a short line of people at the side of the road), and finally took off for the wineries. When we reached the first it was already 4:50, and I noticed on the sign outside that it would close at 5:30. Would we only have time for one winery?
Worse. <b>No wineries at all!</b> All the wineries were closed in honor of the procession. I was furious! How can a tour guide take you on a tour without checking that the places you're going to visit are actually open? After I pointed this out, and said that I had only taken the tour because I wanted to visit wineries, we drove back to Valparaiso in silence, where Michael charged me 6,000 pesos instead of the full price, claiming that this was what it would have cost me to visit Isla Negra by bus.
So, avoid tours by the German Pirate. You might also avoid the Port View room at the Yellow House. It was very dark, and the view not much. In addition, it was on the same floor as the kitchen and dining room, and when an inconsiderate Polish visitor decided to fix a meal at 11:00 at night I could hear every move. The house's location had disadvantages too. The views from the top floor were so good because the house was at one end of town, but there was a real shortage of eating and drinking places nearby. To get to the best area for restaurants you needed to take the funicular down the hill, catch a tram into town, and ride another funicular up again. Walking would have been possible, except that part of the area between the funiculars wasn't safe. The funicular for the Yellow House didn't feel that safe, either. The carriage may well be the original, from 1893, and not only were there gaps between the boards, the whole thing shook.
Overall, despite this one thoroughly disappointing day, I enjoyed my stay in Valparaiso. I'm glad I've seen the town, but I don't have any great urge to go back.
The walking tour of Valparaiso that the owner of the Yellow House had recommended had been so good I had little hesitation in signing up for another tour. I needed a tour for the wineries south of town, and while I had planned to visit Neruda's seaside house at Isla Negra by bus, I was OK with including it on the tour. A young couple who had also been staying at the Yellow House signed up for the same Friday tour. They had a flight out of Santiago that night, and the plan was for them to catch a bus after we visited the wineries.
Alas, Michael the German Pirate was no Boris. He apparently regarded guiding as a hobby rather than a job, although I know hobbyists who are far more engaged and efficient. The tour got off to an exceedingly slow start. We had not gone far before stopping at a house that one of Michael's friends was renovating. This was mostly an opportunity for him to visit with his friend, while we wandered round a building that was certainly in need of renovation, and was also stuffed with second-hand toys.
Then a drive through a mostly deserted seaside development was followed by a visit to a beautiful and also mostly deserted beach. I would have liked coffee at this point but the one functioning beach shack only offered cold drinks. Then we stopped at another house belonging to another of Michael's friends. Again, we hung around while Michael visited with his friend, after which we were shown the friend's "museum", of interest only to fans of model ships and stuffed animals (the ones in the Vina del Mar museum were better).
By the time we finally arrived in Isla Negra and had eaten lunch I was wondering why I had signed up for this odyssey, but so far I was better off than the other couple. Michael had just discovered that the bus they had planned to take wasn't running, and they would have to leave from Isla Negra and skip the wineries. Now, back when I was planning this trip, a poster on Fodors had warned me that the road between Valparaiso and Santiago would be closed from mid afternoon Friday December 7th to the evening of Saturday December 8th for a major religious procession. I had scheduled an extra night in Valparaiso to allow for it, and then forgotten the matter. So, a Fodors' poster knew about the annual closure, but a supposedly professional tour guide did not.
Michael went off to check on bus times, and we visited the house. Perhaps I should have settled for just one of Neruda's houses, as I found this one disappointing. The location, and the views, were indeed magnificent, but the rooms felt claustrophobic. Too many over-sized figureheads in the living room, for sure, and the ceilings seemed low. Afterwards we left the young couple, and their luggage, at a "bus stop" (a short line of people at the side of the road), and finally took off for the wineries. When we reached the first it was already 4:50, and I noticed on the sign outside that it would close at 5:30. Would we only have time for one winery?
Worse. <b>No wineries at all!</b> All the wineries were closed in honor of the procession. I was furious! How can a tour guide take you on a tour without checking that the places you're going to visit are actually open? After I pointed this out, and said that I had only taken the tour because I wanted to visit wineries, we drove back to Valparaiso in silence, where Michael charged me 6,000 pesos instead of the full price, claiming that this was what it would have cost me to visit Isla Negra by bus.
So, avoid tours by the German Pirate. You might also avoid the Port View room at the Yellow House. It was very dark, and the view not much. In addition, it was on the same floor as the kitchen and dining room, and when an inconsiderate Polish visitor decided to fix a meal at 11:00 at night I could hear every move. The house's location had disadvantages too. The views from the top floor were so good because the house was at one end of town, but there was a real shortage of eating and drinking places nearby. To get to the best area for restaurants you needed to take the funicular down the hill, catch a tram into town, and ride another funicular up again. Walking would have been possible, except that part of the area between the funiculars wasn't safe. The funicular for the Yellow House didn't feel that safe, either. The carriage may well be the original, from 1893, and not only were there gaps between the boards, the whole thing shook.
Overall, despite this one thoroughly disappointing day, I enjoyed my stay in Valparaiso. I'm glad I've seen the town, but I don't have any great urge to go back.
Jan 2nd, 2013, 05:53 PM
#130
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I am interested to read your impressions of the German Pirate because, in my opinion, he has been getting away with "tours" which are not tours for a long time now. Although Tripadvisor is full of testimonials by one off posters who praise his tours, I really think it is a case of "The Emperor's New Clothes". I sincerely hope that couple caught their flight because traffic was going through a detour north which would have added at least an hour to their bus ride. The procession has been happening as long as I can remember and everyone knows that the highway closes the afternoon before the 8th.
I am glad you snatched some enjoyment from the jaws of disappointment.
I am glad you snatched some enjoyment from the jaws of disappointment.
Jan 2nd, 2013, 08:28 PM
#131
Original Poster
Yes, I was surprised to read the reviews on tripadvisor. I will be writing one myself when I finish the TR. It will rate him rather differently....
I think the couple should have been OK, they had several hours.
I think the couple should have been OK, they had several hours.
Jan 3rd, 2013, 06:31 AM
#133
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I don't know anything about Valparaíso and couldn't care less about the German Pirate's fame, but I went to TA for the latest forum posts about him and did NOT find the proportion of favorable comments from one-time posters particularly high.
"Elsewhere" there is a guy who mostly built his business via fake comments on the web and they made him "D.E.". He is still at it.
"Elsewhere" there is a guy who mostly built his business via fake comments on the web and they made him "D.E.". He is still at it.
Jan 5th, 2013, 06:48 AM
#134
Original Poster
<b>December 8-9, 2012: Sampling Santiago</b>
Thanks to the religious procession that closed the road from Valparaiso, I only spent one night in Santiago, although since my flight to Miami left at nearly midnight I had a day and a half to check out the city. The Yellow House had recommended the Rio Amazonas, and it was well situated just south of the restaurants in Bellavista (although I had to skirt a small riot on the way back from dinner). The friendly staff even let me shower after my day's sightseeing. But my room was London-small, and without AC, and I had some doubts about the sheets.
Unfortunately, the one place I really wanted to visit in Santiago, the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolumbino, was closed for renovation, which is why I had already decided I should start my next trip to South America back in Santiago. Meanwhile, I checked off the Museo Historico Nacional - missable aside from a temporary exhibition of fancy dress - and the Museo de la Memoria y de los Derechos Humanos - definitely NOT missable. I spent much longer in the second museum, absorbing an excellently presented history of the horrors of the military dictatorship, which lasted from 1973 to 1990, before wandering through part of the neighboring park, full of families enjoying themselves.
I also wandered around a fair amount of central Santiago, enjoying a varied collection of buildings that ranged from Spanish baroque to very modern. I made it up the smaller of the two hills, Santa Lucia, noted the parlous state of the river Mapocho, and tried to avoid the lunchtime crowds in the huge Plaza de Armas. I had thought about staying in the Barrio Paris Londres and was disappointed to find how small it was. I approved of the metro, but didn't try the buses. I even bought the first and only souvenir of the whole trip, although the copper fish I found in the Rio Amazonas' gift shop was intended as a present.
As a last extravagance I took a taxi out to the airport. US-bound passengers were sent to a separate security area, where we had to take off our shoes. Then, after we had handed in our boarding passes and were headed for the jet-way, we all had to undergo a second check of hand luggage. No liquids, none, nada, aside from the infamous quart bag, could be carried on to the plane. The water I had bought after clearing security was firmly, if politely, confiscated. Good thing I hadn't bought any duty free alcohol or perfume! This security theater has become beyond ridiculous.
At least the plane was only one third full, allowing us the almost forgotten luxury of spreading out, and I did get some sleep on the way to Miami. I had enjoyed visiting South America, although the scenery easily out-shone the cities, and already planned to go back to Santiago to travel through the northwest section - Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia...
<b>Note:</b> OK folks, that's it for this trip, although if/when I get the photos sorted out on smugmug I'll post a link. I did spend a couple of nights in Florida, staying with friends, before I flew back to NC, but I'll only post that on my blog. I wasn't too happy about getting home: I had a hearing test (failed), a biopsy on a lump on my arm (clear), and an over-eager 24 year-old backed into my car as I was leaving a parking lot (I need two new doors), all in the same week. However, I'm already starting to read up for the next trip.
Thanks to the religious procession that closed the road from Valparaiso, I only spent one night in Santiago, although since my flight to Miami left at nearly midnight I had a day and a half to check out the city. The Yellow House had recommended the Rio Amazonas, and it was well situated just south of the restaurants in Bellavista (although I had to skirt a small riot on the way back from dinner). The friendly staff even let me shower after my day's sightseeing. But my room was London-small, and without AC, and I had some doubts about the sheets.
Unfortunately, the one place I really wanted to visit in Santiago, the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolumbino, was closed for renovation, which is why I had already decided I should start my next trip to South America back in Santiago. Meanwhile, I checked off the Museo Historico Nacional - missable aside from a temporary exhibition of fancy dress - and the Museo de la Memoria y de los Derechos Humanos - definitely NOT missable. I spent much longer in the second museum, absorbing an excellently presented history of the horrors of the military dictatorship, which lasted from 1973 to 1990, before wandering through part of the neighboring park, full of families enjoying themselves.
I also wandered around a fair amount of central Santiago, enjoying a varied collection of buildings that ranged from Spanish baroque to very modern. I made it up the smaller of the two hills, Santa Lucia, noted the parlous state of the river Mapocho, and tried to avoid the lunchtime crowds in the huge Plaza de Armas. I had thought about staying in the Barrio Paris Londres and was disappointed to find how small it was. I approved of the metro, but didn't try the buses. I even bought the first and only souvenir of the whole trip, although the copper fish I found in the Rio Amazonas' gift shop was intended as a present.
As a last extravagance I took a taxi out to the airport. US-bound passengers were sent to a separate security area, where we had to take off our shoes. Then, after we had handed in our boarding passes and were headed for the jet-way, we all had to undergo a second check of hand luggage. No liquids, none, nada, aside from the infamous quart bag, could be carried on to the plane. The water I had bought after clearing security was firmly, if politely, confiscated. Good thing I hadn't bought any duty free alcohol or perfume! This security theater has become beyond ridiculous.
At least the plane was only one third full, allowing us the almost forgotten luxury of spreading out, and I did get some sleep on the way to Miami. I had enjoyed visiting South America, although the scenery easily out-shone the cities, and already planned to go back to Santiago to travel through the northwest section - Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia...
<b>Note:</b> OK folks, that's it for this trip, although if/when I get the photos sorted out on smugmug I'll post a link. I did spend a couple of nights in Florida, staying with friends, before I flew back to NC, but I'll only post that on my blog. I wasn't too happy about getting home: I had a hearing test (failed), a biopsy on a lump on my arm (clear), and an over-eager 24 year-old backed into my car as I was leaving a parking lot (I need two new doors), all in the same week. However, I'm already starting to read up for the next trip.
Jan 5th, 2013, 11:02 AM
#136
Original Poster
Thanks, avrooster, best wishes to you, too.
I saw the insurance adjuster yesterday, and he's OK with the estimate I got. Likely to take up to two weeks for the work, though.
I'm figuring the next trip starts with a flight to Santiago, followed by a bus to Mendoza, and then points north. I'll be soliciitng info on visiting the wineries.
I saw the insurance adjuster yesterday, and he's OK with the estimate I got. Likely to take up to two weeks for the work, though.
I'm figuring the next trip starts with a flight to Santiago, followed by a bus to Mendoza, and then points north. I'll be soliciitng info on visiting the wineries.
Jan 5th, 2013, 12:38 PM
#137
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Lots of info about the wineries in the forums.
For Salta, I suggest you research "Angie", a great independent local guide, using TA's search feature.
As you know, there are some wineries in Salta.
For Salta, I suggest you research "Angie", a great independent local guide, using TA's search feature.
As you know, there are some wineries in Salta.
Jan 7th, 2013, 01:41 PM
#138
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Just signed up on your blog to receive updates . . . so far, only read about two entries but I am hooked! We are the same approx. age and have the same travel philosophy, I'm loving your reports!
Thank you,
Sandy (in Denton)
Thank you,
Sandy (in Denton)
