Pisco Dreams; Nine Days in the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Lima
Jul 4th, 2014, 01:21 AM
#42
I was last there in 2012 and they still had a traditional produce market in part of the main square. Eg
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/buddysaunt/7163675121/
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/buddysaunt/7163675121/
Aug 2nd, 2014, 03:41 PM
#43
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I'm back. I know it's been a almost a month, but I was in Cambodia and Burma for two weeks and actual travel always trumps trip reports, does it not?
<b>Moray and the Maras Salt Pans</b>
After a couple hours in Chinchero, it was on to Moray and the Maras Salt Pans. The drive to Moray took about 45 minutes over a dirt road which was questionable for the vehicle we were in. But the views were spectacular. There’s a paved road too, because large buses arrive at Moray, but for some reason we took the scenic route.
Moray is a series of large concentric terraces forming a circle which gets progressively smaller and warmer the farther down you go. We walked as far down as we were allowed to go (not to the very bottom level) and down there, sheltered from the wind and yet in full sun, it was probably 15 degrees warmer. Hiking back up and out was when I really felt the 12000 feet of elevation and myself gasping for breath as we neared the top.
Our last stop, the Maras salt pans were a short drive away. Up here, at over 10,000 feet, water comes out of the mountainside salty and for hundreds of years people have worked the land, forming shallow pans in which the water evaporates leaving the salt behind. These pans remind me a lot of the tannery dye pans in Fez Morocco in their shape and scope. However, instead of being the center of a walked city these sit high up on the mountainside.
Each pan is owned by a family and thus the $7 admission is separate from the bolleto touristico. Our time there was quick, less than half an hour, but we enjoyed it and bought several small bags of salt as gifts for friends and for ourselves.
Many photos here: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...ras-salt-pans/
<b>Moray and the Maras Salt Pans</b>
After a couple hours in Chinchero, it was on to Moray and the Maras Salt Pans. The drive to Moray took about 45 minutes over a dirt road which was questionable for the vehicle we were in. But the views were spectacular. There’s a paved road too, because large buses arrive at Moray, but for some reason we took the scenic route.
Moray is a series of large concentric terraces forming a circle which gets progressively smaller and warmer the farther down you go. We walked as far down as we were allowed to go (not to the very bottom level) and down there, sheltered from the wind and yet in full sun, it was probably 15 degrees warmer. Hiking back up and out was when I really felt the 12000 feet of elevation and myself gasping for breath as we neared the top.
Our last stop, the Maras salt pans were a short drive away. Up here, at over 10,000 feet, water comes out of the mountainside salty and for hundreds of years people have worked the land, forming shallow pans in which the water evaporates leaving the salt behind. These pans remind me a lot of the tannery dye pans in Fez Morocco in their shape and scope. However, instead of being the center of a walked city these sit high up on the mountainside.
Each pan is owned by a family and thus the $7 admission is separate from the bolleto touristico. Our time there was quick, less than half an hour, but we enjoyed it and bought several small bags of salt as gifts for friends and for ourselves.
Many photos here: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...ras-salt-pans/
Aug 30th, 2014, 08:54 AM
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<b>Dining Out in Urubamba Peru</b>
We were at the Tambo del Inka in Urubamba for four nights and while our days were so busy we never really saw the town, we did walk from the hotel each night to find somewhere to eat dinner. Of course the hotel has a lovely restaurant, but menu prices were steep and there was someone there each night playing cheesy live music (picture a guy with electronic keyboard and mike). Honestly, that alone was enough to keep us from dining there.
So, where to go? There are literally dozens of places within 6 blocks of the hotel, so you are spoiled for choice in Urubamba.
We ate at Q’anela Cafe and Restaurant, Pizzeria Quinua, Tres Keros and El Huacatay. Descriptions to follow.
All prices listed are in Peruvian Nuevo Soles which at the time we were there (April 2014) were about 2.8 to the dollar.
We were at the Tambo del Inka in Urubamba for four nights and while our days were so busy we never really saw the town, we did walk from the hotel each night to find somewhere to eat dinner. Of course the hotel has a lovely restaurant, but menu prices were steep and there was someone there each night playing cheesy live music (picture a guy with electronic keyboard and mike). Honestly, that alone was enough to keep us from dining there.
So, where to go? There are literally dozens of places within 6 blocks of the hotel, so you are spoiled for choice in Urubamba.
We ate at Q’anela Cafe and Restaurant, Pizzeria Quinua, Tres Keros and El Huacatay. Descriptions to follow.
All prices listed are in Peruvian Nuevo Soles which at the time we were there (April 2014) were about 2.8 to the dollar.
Aug 30th, 2014, 08:55 AM
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<b>Q’anela Cafe and Restaurant</b>
On our first night we went to the concierge recommended Q’anela. She’d told us she liked it better than El Huacatay which did not have any reservations available. Armed with a little map, we walked the 4 blocks or so to the restaurant where we were the only people dining save two women at another table. There are two small dining rooms with traditional furniture overlooking a small garden. The restaurant bills itself as having “slow cooked traditional cuisine.”
Our meal at Q’anela included a small bowl of complimentary broad beans to snack on while waiting. I had some ravioli while David ordered our first taste of Alpaca in the form of the traditional Lomo Saltado. This came with a green tinted rice and yucca fries. Unfortunately, I was so exhausted from our long trip I didn’t write down any details of the meal and the rest eludes me.
Q’uanela Restaurant- Jr Grau 654, Urubamba Peru. Tel: 51 84201373. Our dinner with drinks and tip was 110 soles.
On our first night we went to the concierge recommended Q’anela. She’d told us she liked it better than El Huacatay which did not have any reservations available. Armed with a little map, we walked the 4 blocks or so to the restaurant where we were the only people dining save two women at another table. There are two small dining rooms with traditional furniture overlooking a small garden. The restaurant bills itself as having “slow cooked traditional cuisine.”
Our meal at Q’anela included a small bowl of complimentary broad beans to snack on while waiting. I had some ravioli while David ordered our first taste of Alpaca in the form of the traditional Lomo Saltado. This came with a green tinted rice and yucca fries. Unfortunately, I was so exhausted from our long trip I didn’t write down any details of the meal and the rest eludes me.
Q’uanela Restaurant- Jr Grau 654, Urubamba Peru. Tel: 51 84201373. Our dinner with drinks and tip was 110 soles.
Aug 30th, 2014, 09:10 AM
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<b>Pizzeria Quinua</b>
On our second day in Peru we had a big day of sightseeing, visiting town of Chinchero and it’s market as well as Moray and the Maras Salt Pans. By the time we got back to the hotel it was mid afternoon and since we hadn’t had lunch, we opted for a cocktail and a sandwich in the bar. At dinner time we weren’t that hungry so decided that pizza would do the trick and we landed at Pizzeria Quinua which we’d passed the night before, only a few blocks from the hotel.
The place again was completely empty, except for the four teenagers working there. In their favor, they did have a wood fired pizza oven, so I had high hopes. Unfortunately, the pizza was only acceptable. The crust needs some serious work. Actually, I think it needs less “work” (as in they over worked the dough) and a better recipe. It lacked good flavor and texture. Still, it may be worth a try if you are craving pizza. I think the place might be new and they are working out the kinks. At least I hope so.
Pizzeria Quinua- Jr Padre Barre Mza, J Lote 2, Urubamba Peru. Tel: 51 084796062. Our dinner with a large pizza and two beers was 47 soles.
On our second day in Peru we had a big day of sightseeing, visiting town of Chinchero and it’s market as well as Moray and the Maras Salt Pans. By the time we got back to the hotel it was mid afternoon and since we hadn’t had lunch, we opted for a cocktail and a sandwich in the bar. At dinner time we weren’t that hungry so decided that pizza would do the trick and we landed at Pizzeria Quinua which we’d passed the night before, only a few blocks from the hotel.
The place again was completely empty, except for the four teenagers working there. In their favor, they did have a wood fired pizza oven, so I had high hopes. Unfortunately, the pizza was only acceptable. The crust needs some serious work. Actually, I think it needs less “work” (as in they over worked the dough) and a better recipe. It lacked good flavor and texture. Still, it may be worth a try if you are craving pizza. I think the place might be new and they are working out the kinks. At least I hope so.
Pizzeria Quinua- Jr Padre Barre Mza, J Lote 2, Urubamba Peru. Tel: 51 084796062. Our dinner with a large pizza and two beers was 47 soles.
Aug 30th, 2014, 12:03 PM
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<b>Tres Keros Restaurant</b>
When I was researching where to eat in Urubamba Tres Keros came up over and over (as did El Huacatay below). This restaurant is in an unobtrusive building on the main road through the valley and only about 4 blocks from the entrance to Tambo del Inka. Inside the front entrance you’ll find a courtyard and stairs. Up the stairs is the warm dining room with the effusively friendly chef and owner, Ricardo who does everything possible to make guests feel welcome.
We were seated at a table by the fireplace and brought a basket of bread with home made butter. By our third day in Peru I was ready for some vegetables so I ordered the salad with avocado, asparagus and hearts of palm and a shallot vinaigrette along with a delicious passion fruit sour. I was not disappointed in either. The salad was exactly what I was craving and was fresh and flavorful. David had the traditional lomo saltado made with beef filet and was pleased with his choice. In the middle of the meal a small taste of prawn risotto appeared, a gift from the owner.
When we asked Ricardo about Piscos, he insisted that we taste the one he considered “the best” one of which they only make 300 bottles a year. While it was good, to me Pisco is not a sipping liquor and is best left to mixed drinks. We also had an opportunity to try the wine pictured below, another limited production.
Tres Keros Restaurant Urubamba Address: Av. Sr. de Torrechayoc, Urubamba. Phone: (+51) 84 201 701 . Closed Tuesdays. Our meal, with food, drinks and tip was about 140 soles.
When I was researching where to eat in Urubamba Tres Keros came up over and over (as did El Huacatay below). This restaurant is in an unobtrusive building on the main road through the valley and only about 4 blocks from the entrance to Tambo del Inka. Inside the front entrance you’ll find a courtyard and stairs. Up the stairs is the warm dining room with the effusively friendly chef and owner, Ricardo who does everything possible to make guests feel welcome.
We were seated at a table by the fireplace and brought a basket of bread with home made butter. By our third day in Peru I was ready for some vegetables so I ordered the salad with avocado, asparagus and hearts of palm and a shallot vinaigrette along with a delicious passion fruit sour. I was not disappointed in either. The salad was exactly what I was craving and was fresh and flavorful. David had the traditional lomo saltado made with beef filet and was pleased with his choice. In the middle of the meal a small taste of prawn risotto appeared, a gift from the owner.
When we asked Ricardo about Piscos, he insisted that we taste the one he considered “the best” one of which they only make 300 bottles a year. While it was good, to me Pisco is not a sipping liquor and is best left to mixed drinks. We also had an opportunity to try the wine pictured below, another limited production.
Tres Keros Restaurant Urubamba Address: Av. Sr. de Torrechayoc, Urubamba. Phone: (+51) 84 201 701 . Closed Tuesdays. Our meal, with food, drinks and tip was about 140 soles.
Aug 30th, 2014, 12:05 PM
#49
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<b>El Huacatay Restaurant</b>
This is probably the most famous place in town and reservations are certainly recommended because it’s so popular. The restaurant is owned by a local couple (he’s Peruvian and the chef and she’s German and runs the front of house). The setting is a garden and a series of small dining rooms (perhaps this was once a house?). We ended up eating a a low table with a built in banquet in their small bar area and had great service by an Austrian expat. The food here is modern Peruvian with a European flair.
When we ordered a cocktail and a bottle of wine, we were brought a complimentary bowl of olives and bread. The wine list had some decent and affordable choices and we selected a Chilean Carmenere.
David started with a potato leek soup with sage and local chorizo and followed that with Peruvian trout with quinoa. I chose the alpaca loin with port thyme sauce, quinoa risotto, pear with thyme, and eggplant puree. The port thyme sauce was delicious with the perfectly cooked alpaca (which tastes like grass fed beef) and I really liked the quinoa risotto too. All the food was enjoyable and perfectly executed. I can see why this place is so popular. We shared a dessert of three home made sorbets, banana and custard.
Huacatay Restaurant Urubamba -Address: Jr. Arica 620, Urubamba. 1pm to 9.30pm Monday to Saturdays. Closed Sundays. Phone: (+51) 84 201 790 Our meal, with a bottle of wine, a cocktail and tip was about 230 soles.
This is probably the most famous place in town and reservations are certainly recommended because it’s so popular. The restaurant is owned by a local couple (he’s Peruvian and the chef and she’s German and runs the front of house). The setting is a garden and a series of small dining rooms (perhaps this was once a house?). We ended up eating a a low table with a built in banquet in their small bar area and had great service by an Austrian expat. The food here is modern Peruvian with a European flair.
When we ordered a cocktail and a bottle of wine, we were brought a complimentary bowl of olives and bread. The wine list had some decent and affordable choices and we selected a Chilean Carmenere.
David started with a potato leek soup with sage and local chorizo and followed that with Peruvian trout with quinoa. I chose the alpaca loin with port thyme sauce, quinoa risotto, pear with thyme, and eggplant puree. The port thyme sauce was delicious with the perfectly cooked alpaca (which tastes like grass fed beef) and I really liked the quinoa risotto too. All the food was enjoyable and perfectly executed. I can see why this place is so popular. We shared a dessert of three home made sorbets, banana and custard.
Huacatay Restaurant Urubamba -Address: Jr. Arica 620, Urubamba. 1pm to 9.30pm Monday to Saturdays. Closed Sundays. Phone: (+51) 84 201 790 Our meal, with a bottle of wine, a cocktail and tip was about 230 soles.
Sep 1st, 2014, 08:47 PM
#51
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Thanks Kathie. There are no shortage of options nearby. And don't forget to try the cocktails in the bar. Yummy.
Here's the blog post which includes photos:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...urubamba-peru/
Here's the blog post which includes photos:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...urubamba-peru/
Sep 16th, 2014, 07:20 PM
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<b>A Day at Machu Picchu</b>
They say that Machu Picchu will take your breath away. It did, just not in the way I anticipated.
We arrived, after a 2.5 hour train ride from Urubamba in which we spent the first half alone in a car for 50 people and the second half squeezed in like sardines with a group of boisterous Australian tourists and their mountain of luggage.
While it was clear when we left Urubamba, in Machu Picchu Pueblo it was overcast and misty. The town exists solely for the sake of tourism and every hotel, restaurant and shop to cater to traveler’s needs and desires. Want coffee, cocktails and wifi? It’s here. Cheap tourist menu lunch for $8? It’s here. Fine dining? I’m sure it’s here somewhere.
Finding the bus up to Machu Picchu ruins should be straightforward but somehow we managed to walk in an extra circle or two until we found the ticket window and the line for the buses. The line moves quickly and there are lots of buses lined up and ready to go as soon as they can be filled. The drive up is a bit hairy and if you have a fear of heights, I recommend you sit on the aisle and don’t look out or down as the bus winds its way up 19 switchbacks.
Once off the bus, we took our tickets to the gate and entered. We stamped our passports with the official Machu Picchu stamp which is right past the gate on a little table. Somehow I think the US government might not approve of people placing random stamps in their passports but, not thinking of that at the time, we did it anyway and so far, so good.
No doubt, it’s spectacular.
The first thing we did was head up. And up. And up, to the caretaker’s hut. I was fairly winded by the time we got to the top.
What did we see? Absolutely nothing.
Nothing but fog and a few llamas (though they were pretty adorable).
The fog was so thick there was no view at all. Needless to say, I was a little freaked out at the thought we’d come all this way to see….mist. But the wind was blowing and after about 10 minutes, the fog briefly cleared, and there it was. We took a few zillion photos from above and then headed down to explore the rest of the ruins.
We enjoyed walking around on our own, didn’t hire a guide, and frankly, didn’t even break out the guidebook. I did have some notes with me as to where the best view points were, but as for all the details of what specific things were, we didn’t place a lot of emphasis on that as we wandered and this was fine for us.
Up next...my unedited option on the Machu Picchu experience.
They say that Machu Picchu will take your breath away. It did, just not in the way I anticipated.
We arrived, after a 2.5 hour train ride from Urubamba in which we spent the first half alone in a car for 50 people and the second half squeezed in like sardines with a group of boisterous Australian tourists and their mountain of luggage.
While it was clear when we left Urubamba, in Machu Picchu Pueblo it was overcast and misty. The town exists solely for the sake of tourism and every hotel, restaurant and shop to cater to traveler’s needs and desires. Want coffee, cocktails and wifi? It’s here. Cheap tourist menu lunch for $8? It’s here. Fine dining? I’m sure it’s here somewhere.
Finding the bus up to Machu Picchu ruins should be straightforward but somehow we managed to walk in an extra circle or two until we found the ticket window and the line for the buses. The line moves quickly and there are lots of buses lined up and ready to go as soon as they can be filled. The drive up is a bit hairy and if you have a fear of heights, I recommend you sit on the aisle and don’t look out or down as the bus winds its way up 19 switchbacks.
Once off the bus, we took our tickets to the gate and entered. We stamped our passports with the official Machu Picchu stamp which is right past the gate on a little table. Somehow I think the US government might not approve of people placing random stamps in their passports but, not thinking of that at the time, we did it anyway and so far, so good.
No doubt, it’s spectacular.
The first thing we did was head up. And up. And up, to the caretaker’s hut. I was fairly winded by the time we got to the top.
What did we see? Absolutely nothing.
Nothing but fog and a few llamas (though they were pretty adorable).
The fog was so thick there was no view at all. Needless to say, I was a little freaked out at the thought we’d come all this way to see….mist. But the wind was blowing and after about 10 minutes, the fog briefly cleared, and there it was. We took a few zillion photos from above and then headed down to explore the rest of the ruins.
We enjoyed walking around on our own, didn’t hire a guide, and frankly, didn’t even break out the guidebook. I did have some notes with me as to where the best view points were, but as for all the details of what specific things were, we didn’t place a lot of emphasis on that as we wandered and this was fine for us.
Up next...my unedited option on the Machu Picchu experience.
Sep 17th, 2014, 02:52 PM
#54
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Kristina, I'm enjoying your account too. Glad the fog eventually gave way for you. We had the same issue when we were up near the top of Machu Picchu Montana, but it cleared after about 10-15 minutes, and just for long enough for us to take in the views and snap some photos.
Sep 17th, 2014, 06:30 PM
#55
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Here are my photos from our day at Machu Picchu:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...-machu-picchu/
You may be wondering about what I said in the last post about Machu Picchu taking my breath away, but not as I anticipated? Here’s where it gets a bit sticky. We were at almost 9000 feet and yes, I was short of breath, so there’s that. But that’s not what the expression implies is it?
The real question is, <i>was it mystical and magical? Was I struck dumb with awe? Did the ancients sing to me through the stones?</i>
The answer is, no. Frankly, I’m finding it hard to wax poetic as so many before me have done. I don’t want say what everyone expects to make it easier either.
Perhaps my expectations were too high given the expense and the hoops we’d had to jump though to get there. Perhaps it’s because I’ve been blessed to see other wonders of the world. I might feel different if this was my first travel experience.
I want to be very clear; I certainly had fun and enjoyed it. I have no regrets about going and loved the rest of our time in Peru, including Lima, Cusco and the rest of the Sacred Valley. But honestly, I wouldn’t count Machu Picchu in my all time travel experiences.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely. But not over some of the magical places I've been which have left me dumbstruck with wonder.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...-machu-picchu/
You may be wondering about what I said in the last post about Machu Picchu taking my breath away, but not as I anticipated? Here’s where it gets a bit sticky. We were at almost 9000 feet and yes, I was short of breath, so there’s that. But that’s not what the expression implies is it?
The real question is, <i>was it mystical and magical? Was I struck dumb with awe? Did the ancients sing to me through the stones?</i>
The answer is, no. Frankly, I’m finding it hard to wax poetic as so many before me have done. I don’t want say what everyone expects to make it easier either.
Perhaps my expectations were too high given the expense and the hoops we’d had to jump though to get there. Perhaps it’s because I’ve been blessed to see other wonders of the world. I might feel different if this was my first travel experience.
I want to be very clear; I certainly had fun and enjoyed it. I have no regrets about going and loved the rest of our time in Peru, including Lima, Cusco and the rest of the Sacred Valley. But honestly, I wouldn’t count Machu Picchu in my all time travel experiences.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely. But not over some of the magical places I've been which have left me dumbstruck with wonder.
Sep 18th, 2014, 04:36 AM
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I'm enjoying your report. You saw a lot more of the Sacred Valley than we did. Looking forward to reading about Cusco.
I had kind of the same feeling about Machu Picchu that you did--maybe for different reasons (after hiking there for three days, our trip became more about the journey than the destination), but maybe not.
Off topic but are you going to do a trip report for Burma? We are deciding between that and Indonesia (Java and Bali) for a trip next year--but it has to be in the summer (June or July) as you did, and I'm a little concerned about getting into the rainy season in Burma.
I had kind of the same feeling about Machu Picchu that you did--maybe for different reasons (after hiking there for three days, our trip became more about the journey than the destination), but maybe not.
Off topic but are you going to do a trip report for Burma? We are deciding between that and Indonesia (Java and Bali) for a trip next year--but it has to be in the summer (June or July) as you did, and I'm a little concerned about getting into the rainy season in Burma.
Sep 18th, 2014, 08:34 AM
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Kristina and ms_go, your impressions of Machu Picchu are interesting. The site did indeed have a "wow" factor for me, and I would include it in a list with Petra, Cappadocia, Borobudur, and Prambanan, but there's no right or wrong answer as far as these things go.
As for Burma versus Indonesia, I haven't been to the former but visited Java and Bali and had a marvelous time. I'm one for temple hopping and could do that for days on end without getting bored, but the rice field hikes were very enjoyable too as were the beaches.
As for Burma versus Indonesia, I haven't been to the former but visited Java and Bali and had a marvelous time. I'm one for temple hopping and could do that for days on end without getting bored, but the rice field hikes were very enjoyable too as were the beaches.
Sep 18th, 2014, 10:09 AM
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Kristina, from your previous comments, I had guessed MP didn't turn out to be a "wow" destination for you. We all respond to different things. I'm anticipating being wowed by MP - after all, I've scheduled two nights there. But we'll see what I feel/think/experience once I get there.
(Yes, I would love to read about your Burma trip - we are thinking about going back for a third time...)
(Yes, I would love to read about your Burma trip - we are thinking about going back for a third time...)
Sep 18th, 2014, 11:31 AM
#59
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I think part of it (the lack of "OMG, this is the most amazing place EVER!), is that I've been fortunate to have already been to so many amazing places. It's all a matter of personal experience. Yes, there is wow factor there, of course, but it didn't have the same effect on me as some other places have. I didn't list those places as a comparison because it's not a contest, it's my personal feelings/experience, and everyone is different.
As for Burma, we really enjoyed it, and yes, I will get to a trip report when I'm done with Peru. We had no issues with being there in July in terms of weather, and I suspect we had far fewer crowds as well.
ms_go-if you have questions about Burma which might help you decide, feel free to email me via the links on my blog. I probably won't get to that trip report for a while. We spent 8 days between Bagan, Inle and Yangon.
As for Burma, we really enjoyed it, and yes, I will get to a trip report when I'm done with Peru. We had no issues with being there in July in terms of weather, and I suspect we had far fewer crowds as well.
ms_go-if you have questions about Burma which might help you decide, feel free to email me via the links on my blog. I probably won't get to that trip report for a while. We spent 8 days between Bagan, Inle and Yangon.
