Pisco Dreams; Nine Days in the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Lima
Jun 19th, 2014, 08:50 AM
#21
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We did the drive to and from Ollanta (via Urubamba) twice, once in daylight and once at dusk. Shockingly beautiful (before we went, we had absolutely no idea how physically beautiful Peru is).
Laughing about the fashion show - I kept my head buried in a magazine
Laughing about the fashion show - I kept my head buried in a magazine
Jun 19th, 2014, 08:23 PM
#22
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the positive feedback!
ms_go- we keep going to the same places; Peru, Cambodia, Italy, Istanbul, Tokyo and I just re-read your Seoul Layover report because if we have time, I hope to do something similar next month.
Our layover is only 7 hours so it's too short for one of those official transit tours but maybe we can just go in for lunch and a walk around. Not sure yet. How much time overall did you spend out of the airport?
ms_go- we keep going to the same places; Peru, Cambodia, Italy, Istanbul, Tokyo and I just re-read your Seoul Layover report because if we have time, I hope to do something similar next month.
Our layover is only 7 hours so it's too short for one of those official transit tours but maybe we can just go in for lunch and a walk around. Not sure yet. How much time overall did you spend out of the airport?
Jun 19th, 2014, 10:10 PM
#23
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Kristina, it's been a few years so I'm a little fuzzy on the details at this point, but I'd be surprised if we spent too much more than seven hours out of the airport. We didn't rush right out because we landed so early in the morning, and on the back end we were tired from the overnight flight and wanted plenty of time for showers, etc., before our onward flight to SF.
From memory and without looking back at the report, we landed about 5am, got into Seoul around 7am (ish) and maybe headed back to the airport around 2pm (ish).
From memory and without looking back at the report, we landed about 5am, got into Seoul around 7am (ish) and maybe headed back to the airport around 2pm (ish).
Jun 20th, 2014, 06:23 AM
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ms_Go- Thanks. We only have 7 hours total, so I don't know whether or not it makes sense. We'll have to see also if any of our flights are delayed.
<b>The Tambo Del Inka Resort, Urubamba, Peru</b>
As we pulled into the Tambo Del Inka (TDI) it was just coming on dark and almost 24 hours since we’d left home. Needless to say we were a bit road weary but the beauty of the resort was evident as soon as we got out of the car. Soaring wood ceilings and a giant fireplace greet you (as well as friendly door men) as soon as you walk in. We were met by a reservation concierge, and rather than checking in at a “front desk” we were brought to seats in the lobby, offered tea, and the check in process was done there.
Because of our SPG Gold status we were upgraded to a Deluxe Room from a Superior Room. As far as I can tell the only difference is that the Deluxe rooms are on the ground floor and open out onto a private patio with lounge chairs. Superior rooms are up one level and have what looks like an enclosed “balcony” but you can’t get outside.
The room is huge with a king sized bed, walk in closet, sofa, desk, and two chairs set in front of the terrace doors with a small round table. The bathroom has three separate areas with double sinks and mirror in the center, a frosted glassed-in toilet room, and a clear glass “wet room” with tub and separate shower. Our room was on the river side of the property, and while we could hear it, it was only slightly visible through the foliage.
The grounds of the hotel are beautiful as is the pool. I never used the pool but David did once and said it was heated and nice. Half of the pool is inside and half extends outside.
We never ate in the restaurant for dinner and because our room did not come with breakfast, we ended up ordering a room service Continental breakfast each morning (which came with enough for two people). On the first morning we added eggs for ”full breakfast” but they really weren't very good. I also ordered extra yogurt to supplement the breakfast which was better than the eggs. On our last morning we ate at the breakfast buffet, but for the cost, I wasn't really impressed.
The bar, on the other hand was fabulous. This is where we had our first Pisco cocktails, shortly after checking in, and every day thereafter. My favorite was called the “oh Gooseberry” and was made with Pisco, lemon syrup, fresh gooseberries and fresh basil. They have a tasty bar menu and bring complimentary freshly fried potato chips.
On the hotel’s grounds sits the Urubamba train station. There is one train per day which goes up and returns from Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu Publo which the the base town to get to the Machu Picchu Ruins. The trip takes about 2.5 hours each way and if you’re staying at the hotel, makes it very convenient. The hotel asks guests to meet them in the lobby so that they can walk everyone over to the train, but I figured we could find it ourselves. The afternoon before our morning train departure, I walked the grounds, just so I could get the lay of the land. I discovered t that we could exit from a different door (next to the elevators) closer to our room, walk though the back side of the hotel which has a giant water feature and save ourselves 10 minutes of having to go out through the lobby.
We stayed at the TDI 4 nights and while we were here we visited Chinchero, Morey and Maras, Ollantaytambo and Pisac and took the train from the hotel to visit Machu Picchu. What we didn't have time to do was enjoy the resort facilities of the Tambo del Inka or visit the town of Urubamba itself other than for dinner. If I had to do it again, I would build in more down time to enjoy the hotel, the spa and the town.
<b>The Tambo Del Inka Resort, Urubamba, Peru</b>
As we pulled into the Tambo Del Inka (TDI) it was just coming on dark and almost 24 hours since we’d left home. Needless to say we were a bit road weary but the beauty of the resort was evident as soon as we got out of the car. Soaring wood ceilings and a giant fireplace greet you (as well as friendly door men) as soon as you walk in. We were met by a reservation concierge, and rather than checking in at a “front desk” we were brought to seats in the lobby, offered tea, and the check in process was done there.
Because of our SPG Gold status we were upgraded to a Deluxe Room from a Superior Room. As far as I can tell the only difference is that the Deluxe rooms are on the ground floor and open out onto a private patio with lounge chairs. Superior rooms are up one level and have what looks like an enclosed “balcony” but you can’t get outside.
The room is huge with a king sized bed, walk in closet, sofa, desk, and two chairs set in front of the terrace doors with a small round table. The bathroom has three separate areas with double sinks and mirror in the center, a frosted glassed-in toilet room, and a clear glass “wet room” with tub and separate shower. Our room was on the river side of the property, and while we could hear it, it was only slightly visible through the foliage.
The grounds of the hotel are beautiful as is the pool. I never used the pool but David did once and said it was heated and nice. Half of the pool is inside and half extends outside.
We never ate in the restaurant for dinner and because our room did not come with breakfast, we ended up ordering a room service Continental breakfast each morning (which came with enough for two people). On the first morning we added eggs for ”full breakfast” but they really weren't very good. I also ordered extra yogurt to supplement the breakfast which was better than the eggs. On our last morning we ate at the breakfast buffet, but for the cost, I wasn't really impressed.
The bar, on the other hand was fabulous. This is where we had our first Pisco cocktails, shortly after checking in, and every day thereafter. My favorite was called the “oh Gooseberry” and was made with Pisco, lemon syrup, fresh gooseberries and fresh basil. They have a tasty bar menu and bring complimentary freshly fried potato chips.
On the hotel’s grounds sits the Urubamba train station. There is one train per day which goes up and returns from Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu Publo which the the base town to get to the Machu Picchu Ruins. The trip takes about 2.5 hours each way and if you’re staying at the hotel, makes it very convenient. The hotel asks guests to meet them in the lobby so that they can walk everyone over to the train, but I figured we could find it ourselves. The afternoon before our morning train departure, I walked the grounds, just so I could get the lay of the land. I discovered t that we could exit from a different door (next to the elevators) closer to our room, walk though the back side of the hotel which has a giant water feature and save ourselves 10 minutes of having to go out through the lobby.
We stayed at the TDI 4 nights and while we were here we visited Chinchero, Morey and Maras, Ollantaytambo and Pisac and took the train from the hotel to visit Machu Picchu. What we didn't have time to do was enjoy the resort facilities of the Tambo del Inka or visit the town of Urubamba itself other than for dinner. If I had to do it again, I would build in more down time to enjoy the hotel, the spa and the town.
Jun 21st, 2014, 06:23 AM
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's the link to my blog post with tons of photos and even more detail on the Tambo Del Inka Resort:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...urubamba-peru/
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...urubamba-peru/
Jun 29th, 2014, 07:33 PM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Chinchero</b>
At the top of the hill the church sits low atop stones which predate Columbus, whitewashed against a blue sky with looming clouds. At 9am sharp a man climbs into the bell tower and the clanging of the bells begins.
We’d come to Chinchero, high up the mountains of the Sacred Valley, and suddenly bells were clanging and banging instead of ringing and pealing. There was no gentleness in the sound, but as soon as it stopped there was a silence tempered by only a bit of wind and a baby’s cry.
The morning, our first full day in Peru and Palm Sunday (though we saw little evidence of celebration), started at our hotel where we were met by one of Percy’s colleagues, a young Peruvian woman with a name so unusual that neither of us can remember it now. She met us in the hotel lobby and escorted us to the car which was one of the ubiquitous Toyota sedans seen all over the world.
Our first destination was the high mountain town of Chinchero which sits at almost 12,500 feet. I was nervous that the altitude might affect how I felt on the first day, being up that high, but I felt fine save a bit winded while walking uphill. Before we left, I really debated the order in which we’d do our 3 days of sightseeing in the Sacred Valley. Many people visit the town of Pisac because the market is supposed to be the largest in the region on that day, but I’d also been told the one in Chinchero was smaller and more “authentic”. I wanted to see a real working market, filled with food and goods for the local residents, not just stuff for tourists. So for this first day we scheduled Chinchero, Maras and Moray, leaving Ollantaytambo and Pisac for another day.
<b>Note:</b> Knowing what I know now, I think I would have tried to include Pisac in this day, or for the day we drove to Cusco, if only to avoid the extra driving back and forth we had on that second day of touring. Then, I would have found a way to visit Ollantaytambo on our own from Urubamba and had a half day to spend at the resort.
The drive to Chinchero took about half an hour. Our first stop was at a weaver’s cooperative. Yes, this is a touristy place, but we did see a very interesting presentation on how all different manner of natural ingredients from roots, to mosses, to lichen to herbs are used to create vibrant natural dyes. We bought a sweater and a couple of scarves. While it turned out the prices there were much higher than we’d encounter later, I was happy to support the local women who worked there.
At the top of the hill the church sits low atop stones which predate Columbus, whitewashed against a blue sky with looming clouds. At 9am sharp a man climbs into the bell tower and the clanging of the bells begins.
We’d come to Chinchero, high up the mountains of the Sacred Valley, and suddenly bells were clanging and banging instead of ringing and pealing. There was no gentleness in the sound, but as soon as it stopped there was a silence tempered by only a bit of wind and a baby’s cry.
The morning, our first full day in Peru and Palm Sunday (though we saw little evidence of celebration), started at our hotel where we were met by one of Percy’s colleagues, a young Peruvian woman with a name so unusual that neither of us can remember it now. She met us in the hotel lobby and escorted us to the car which was one of the ubiquitous Toyota sedans seen all over the world.
Our first destination was the high mountain town of Chinchero which sits at almost 12,500 feet. I was nervous that the altitude might affect how I felt on the first day, being up that high, but I felt fine save a bit winded while walking uphill. Before we left, I really debated the order in which we’d do our 3 days of sightseeing in the Sacred Valley. Many people visit the town of Pisac because the market is supposed to be the largest in the region on that day, but I’d also been told the one in Chinchero was smaller and more “authentic”. I wanted to see a real working market, filled with food and goods for the local residents, not just stuff for tourists. So for this first day we scheduled Chinchero, Maras and Moray, leaving Ollantaytambo and Pisac for another day.
<b>Note:</b> Knowing what I know now, I think I would have tried to include Pisac in this day, or for the day we drove to Cusco, if only to avoid the extra driving back and forth we had on that second day of touring. Then, I would have found a way to visit Ollantaytambo on our own from Urubamba and had a half day to spend at the resort.
The drive to Chinchero took about half an hour. Our first stop was at a weaver’s cooperative. Yes, this is a touristy place, but we did see a very interesting presentation on how all different manner of natural ingredients from roots, to mosses, to lichen to herbs are used to create vibrant natural dyes. We bought a sweater and a couple of scarves. While it turned out the prices there were much higher than we’d encounter later, I was happy to support the local women who worked there.
Jun 30th, 2014, 07:02 PM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The next stop was to buy the Bolleto Touristico because the entire town was included as a “tourist site” and necessitated this ticket. Once we’d purchased it with soles, we realized we did not have enough soles left if we’d wanted to buy anything later and there’s no ATM in the town. We ended up changing some US dollars at a money changer and the exchange rate was ok. From here we walked uphill toward the town’s main church which has been there for hundreds of years.
Along the way we ran into a wedding procession. I don’t think I’ve seen a such visibly unhappy wedding party in my life. The bride and groom were a bit older and I never once saw her smile, not even as she walked into the church.
The church itself is quite old and has frescos and paintings which have clearly been adapted and altered to fit the Christian conquerors ideas of “proper” religious imagery. Our guide pointed out several images which were pagan gods which had been “reimagined” to look like Jesus but with some symbolism and colors relating to the indigenous people. The church itself sits on Inca foundations.
Unfortunately, we were unable to take photos inside the church, but trust me, it’s worth a visit. We left before services, and the wedding mass, began.
Outside we saw the first of what would be many agricultural terraces on the hillside behind the church as well as the ancient stacked stone walls.
In the square in front of the church, there were several women selling things and I asked our guide about the market I’d heard was so good. Gesturing to the women in the square, she told us it was too early and it would get busy later in the day. I was massively disappointed because I’d told Percy my whole point of visiting Chinchero was to see the market which I assumed was right here. Our guide told us there was another market we could see at the bottom of the hill where we’d meet the car. Resigned, we started walking down.
Along the way we ran into a wedding procession. I don’t think I’ve seen a such visibly unhappy wedding party in my life. The bride and groom were a bit older and I never once saw her smile, not even as she walked into the church.
The church itself is quite old and has frescos and paintings which have clearly been adapted and altered to fit the Christian conquerors ideas of “proper” religious imagery. Our guide pointed out several images which were pagan gods which had been “reimagined” to look like Jesus but with some symbolism and colors relating to the indigenous people. The church itself sits on Inca foundations.
Unfortunately, we were unable to take photos inside the church, but trust me, it’s worth a visit. We left before services, and the wedding mass, began.
Outside we saw the first of what would be many agricultural terraces on the hillside behind the church as well as the ancient stacked stone walls.
In the square in front of the church, there were several women selling things and I asked our guide about the market I’d heard was so good. Gesturing to the women in the square, she told us it was too early and it would get busy later in the day. I was massively disappointed because I’d told Percy my whole point of visiting Chinchero was to see the market which I assumed was right here. Our guide told us there was another market we could see at the bottom of the hill where we’d meet the car. Resigned, we started walking down.
Jul 1st, 2014, 10:57 AM
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are the photos for the posts above for Chinchero's church.
There are also two videos, one of the clanging church bells.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...and-a-wedding/
There are also two videos, one of the clanging church bells.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...and-a-wedding/
Jul 2nd, 2014, 05:19 PM
#36
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Crellston- Thank you! Yes, the website is self hosted wordpress, customized with the Thesis theme. Anything pre-2009 is in a different HTML platform and too old to change.
There are multiple platforms because the site was originally started in 1998. In fact, it's one of the longest continually running travel blogs on the internet.
mlgb and Kathie- more coming now...
There are multiple platforms because the site was originally started in 1998. In fact, it's one of the longest continually running travel blogs on the internet.
mlgb and Kathie- more coming now...
Jul 2nd, 2014, 05:22 PM
#37
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Sunday Market in Chinchero Peru</b>
While up at the church, I’d mistakenly thought that’s where the market also was for the town.
So imagine my surprise when we got the bottom of the town and saw the dozens of rows of market stalls covered with open air thatched roofs, a small black pig rampaging though seller’s vegetables laid neatly on the ground, and hundreds of people doing their weekly marketing and bartering.
This was the market I’d wanted to see. Yes, there were several stalls selling local handicrafts, but most of them were food; dozens of types of potatoes, herbs, vegetables, fresh fish, cut up chickens. There were also stalls selling soup which I desperately wanted to try but alas, did not.
This post was mostly photos with a bit more description so you might want to check out the photos here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...hinchero-peru/
While up at the church, I’d mistakenly thought that’s where the market also was for the town.
So imagine my surprise when we got the bottom of the town and saw the dozens of rows of market stalls covered with open air thatched roofs, a small black pig rampaging though seller’s vegetables laid neatly on the ground, and hundreds of people doing their weekly marketing and bartering.
This was the market I’d wanted to see. Yes, there were several stalls selling local handicrafts, but most of them were food; dozens of types of potatoes, herbs, vegetables, fresh fish, cut up chickens. There were also stalls selling soup which I desperately wanted to try but alas, did not.
This post was mostly photos with a bit more description so you might want to check out the photos here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2014/0...hinchero-peru/
Jul 3rd, 2014, 11:05 AM
#40
For those why might not be able to make it to Chinchero on Sunday, there are similar markets all over the Sacred Valley on specific market days. Even Urubamba.
I don't feel so bad now for missing it, and going to Pisac instead.
I love the hats in your photos (notice the now-famous Pharrell style). I have albums of "Ladies with Hats" in South America. Each village has their own style.
When I went to Huancayo's Sunday market (on a Mother's Day) there was a vendor selling miniature hats of all the villages and towns.
I don't feel so bad now for missing it, and going to Pisac instead.
I love the hats in your photos (notice the now-famous Pharrell style). I have albums of "Ladies with Hats" in South America. Each village has their own style.
When I went to Huancayo's Sunday market (on a Mother's Day) there was a vendor selling miniature hats of all the villages and towns.
