Glover´s ongoing report - 2 months in Colombia
Feb 4th, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Glover, I'll be the short woman with probably very curly hair and red skin (I don't look my best in heat and high humidity!) and the bald guy without a beard. I still have to pack - that's my plan for tomorrow.
Feb 4th, 2012, 10:46 PM
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Well Glover it would be wonderful to just hear the Columbian accents all day!
I know what you mean about learning and relearning the verb tenses, grammar etc. I recall hearing that people have to listen to a word 16 times before it is committed to memory. That seems about right, for me anyway. I have been having some success with a purchased program called Buenos Entonces. It's kind of cheeky, and perhaps targeted for a younger crowd, but I am still enjoying it.
I know what you mean about learning and relearning the verb tenses, grammar etc. I recall hearing that people have to listen to a word 16 times before it is committed to memory. That seems about right, for me anyway. I have been having some success with a purchased program called Buenos Entonces. It's kind of cheeky, and perhaps targeted for a younger crowd, but I am still enjoying it.
Feb 8th, 2012, 05:57 AM
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We closed out our fairly lazy stay at the cushy coffee hotel in Manizales with two big day trips.
Took a bus trip up, up, up to 15,000 feet to the moonscape like paramo area. Hiked up a little to the snow line (colombians were more excited about snow than we, needless to say.
Really interesting desert, moonlike terrain up there. Stopped at thermal natural hot springools on the way back down. Lots of these on Colombia. Quite a scene. A colombian couple who befriended us at the
Lunch stop showed us the ropes at the pools. Required changing into bathing suit in mucky floored changing room not big enough to turn around in. Rather a chore when you're changing from hiking boots, socks, long pants, amd two shirts. But we got it done, soaked in the hot pool, enjoyed the beer our new friends bought us, but refused to comply with the local custom of getting out of the pool, taking a cold shower, and then getting back in. No way were we doing that.
On our last day in Manizales we took a taxi to yet another nature reserve, this one owned by the local water commission. A sign said it was the third best place to see birds in the world.
And indeed we ran into a vanfull of serious US bird folk there as part of a tour. Naturally they saw more birds than we did because they had a more knowledgeable guide. Ours was just the local guy who was included in our admission. Nevertheless we saw some nice birds and got another good workout.
Kind of hated to leave our cushy hotel the next day, and our good friend Orlando the desk clerk who had been enormously helpful to us. But we got on another bus to a city farther south, Armenia, and from there jumped on a little buseta to the charming small mountain town of Salento, where we spent 5 more nights. Buildings inSalento are almost all one or two story white stucco or frame, some with color detailing, and all with red tile roofs. We stayed in this great little cheap hostel there. Two super nice guys, one Colombian and the other a Spaniard,
Rehabbed a 100 year old house. Has 11 or so rooms on two levels looking onto a small open patio/bar for breakfast use. They were great hosts. Really enjoyed our time there and met some fun other travelers. Besides the charm of the town itself, the other draw of Salento is
Its proximity to a big stash of Colombia's national tree, the wax palm. These grow to a height of 60 metres. Hence tourists gather in the plaza each am to hop jeeps for the trailhead for the hike to see the trees. Jeeps don't leave until they're full- 3 people in front, at least 4 pn the benches in back, and 4 or so locals standing on the tailgate on back. A half hour ride gets you to the trailhead. Then you walk for quite some time ina gorgeous valley ina cowpath essentially. Then the trails heads up,, up, and up thoguh a beautiful cloud forest to a farm on top of the mountain. (crossing several hairy foot bridges along the way). After that you head back down along a dirt road for the most spectacular view of the valley of the wax palms. Stunning! Saw a small deer running down a rocky stream. Lots of good birds too. Salento was full of little restaurants, lots of cheap ones serrving the typical colombian meal - starch, followed by starch, culminating in starch. Actually really good simple soup, wonderful fruit juice, a little meat/chicken/fish, french fries, rice, and patacones(smashed plantains fried into a patty)
They might even add a tortilla like arepa in case you haven't had your fill of starch. For this reason we've added to our "best things about Colombia" list. (fantastic scenery, great birds, nice people). - great Italian food. These are the places where you might actually score a salad, and lots of good pasta. Hope we're hiking off the extra calories. . . .
Our other nice hike from Salento was just a walk out of the town toward the many, many coffee farms of the area. We spent almost 5 hours just doing the easy walk along the dirt road admiring the scenery and looking at birds. Also stopped to watch a group play a fun colombian game- tejo- kind of like cornhole, but they toss a heavy rock like thing toward a mud bankboard with a center goal. The center goal is mined so that if you acutally ever hit it, it explodes. A really nice day. Here we saw the most spectacular bird (and this is saying a lot)-
a green jay. Really you must google it- bright green back, yellow belly, and dark blue and black face, amazing.
We had been trying to get more information about another nature reserve not too far from Salento because we had a day or two to burn before we needed to be back in Medellin. The website was defunct, telephone numbers we had didn't work. Then we happened to be walking in some woods just below the spectacular mirador in Salento (looks out on this magnificent valley) and got to talking to a young local couple. Turned out he was a dung beetle specialist
And had studied at this very reserve. So he kindly called his friend the administrator who then emailed us all the info we needed.
So we tore ourselves away from Salento, took a bus to a city slightly north called Pereirra
Where we were met by a jeep and a few folks from this reserve. Realizing that there would be neither beer nor wine nor TOWELS at his reserve bunkhouse, we asked them to stop to procure. We may not have the nerve to use our 6$ towels though as the showers are only cold.
So in an open jeep belching fumes all the way we left Pereirra and headed up to coffee fields again. Up, up, and up on bumpy dirt road. After about an hour we went up a short steep cement track. Here it developed that we would walk the last 20 minutes to the reserve. (some imprtant details are often misunderstood/ lost in translation). Fortunately (well for us anyway)'
Our assigned guide Mauricio, about 5'8 and 135 pounds hoisted my 17 pound small suitcase onto his shoulder and carried husband's similar sized one in his other hand. And along with Maria, the resident caretaker, cook, etc, we ambled down another trail, even through a piece of cloudforest. Mauricio seemed none the worse for wear on our 4 hour hike the next am.
So here we are today at La Nona reserve. We are the only guests here ( not too surprising you may no doubt be thinking, given the extensive wine list, fine shower opportunities, fine dining, and comfy beds). NOT. We immediately saw a pair of our favorite green jays. Ate a simple dinner on the bunkhouse porch cooked by Maria. Of course: good soup, rice, shoeleathr meat, potatoes- and actual cucumber. Practiced our Spanish with Maria and Mauricio.
Maria lives fulll time in the little house next to the bunkhouse with her reserve caretaker husband, yet to be seen, her 4 children, and her ancient grandmother. At 7am or so 3 of the 4 children hike out the gate and down the rainforest path to school. What a life. The bunkhouse is 5 or 6 rooms, each with 2 bunkbeds with a 2 inch mattress on slats. Two bathrooms around the corner via the porch. A beautiful open yard in front. Cloudforest behind. We slept fairly well all things considered and hiked in the cloudforest for 4 hours this am with Mauricio. A nice fello, working hard to learn the birds. Good company. Another beautiful forest and a nice trail. Didn't see a lot of birds though. Now back on the porch after a lunch of - wait for it-
Soup, shoe leather beef, rice, patacones, and slaw, and fruit juice. Soon we'll go back out with
M and walk the road a little. Then we'll come back for another starch dinner on the porch.
But its turned into a beautiful day, so it's really rather idyllic here. . .
Tomorrow we'll get up early, run down the cloudforest path to our jeep, bump along to thr Pererra airport, where we'll take a short flight back to civilization- Medellin for a few more days
at Noah and Marcela's b and b.
Took a bus trip up, up, up to 15,000 feet to the moonscape like paramo area. Hiked up a little to the snow line (colombians were more excited about snow than we, needless to say.
Really interesting desert, moonlike terrain up there. Stopped at thermal natural hot springools on the way back down. Lots of these on Colombia. Quite a scene. A colombian couple who befriended us at the
Lunch stop showed us the ropes at the pools. Required changing into bathing suit in mucky floored changing room not big enough to turn around in. Rather a chore when you're changing from hiking boots, socks, long pants, amd two shirts. But we got it done, soaked in the hot pool, enjoyed the beer our new friends bought us, but refused to comply with the local custom of getting out of the pool, taking a cold shower, and then getting back in. No way were we doing that.
On our last day in Manizales we took a taxi to yet another nature reserve, this one owned by the local water commission. A sign said it was the third best place to see birds in the world.
And indeed we ran into a vanfull of serious US bird folk there as part of a tour. Naturally they saw more birds than we did because they had a more knowledgeable guide. Ours was just the local guy who was included in our admission. Nevertheless we saw some nice birds and got another good workout.
Kind of hated to leave our cushy hotel the next day, and our good friend Orlando the desk clerk who had been enormously helpful to us. But we got on another bus to a city farther south, Armenia, and from there jumped on a little buseta to the charming small mountain town of Salento, where we spent 5 more nights. Buildings inSalento are almost all one or two story white stucco or frame, some with color detailing, and all with red tile roofs. We stayed in this great little cheap hostel there. Two super nice guys, one Colombian and the other a Spaniard,
Rehabbed a 100 year old house. Has 11 or so rooms on two levels looking onto a small open patio/bar for breakfast use. They were great hosts. Really enjoyed our time there and met some fun other travelers. Besides the charm of the town itself, the other draw of Salento is
Its proximity to a big stash of Colombia's national tree, the wax palm. These grow to a height of 60 metres. Hence tourists gather in the plaza each am to hop jeeps for the trailhead for the hike to see the trees. Jeeps don't leave until they're full- 3 people in front, at least 4 pn the benches in back, and 4 or so locals standing on the tailgate on back. A half hour ride gets you to the trailhead. Then you walk for quite some time ina gorgeous valley ina cowpath essentially. Then the trails heads up,, up, and up thoguh a beautiful cloud forest to a farm on top of the mountain. (crossing several hairy foot bridges along the way). After that you head back down along a dirt road for the most spectacular view of the valley of the wax palms. Stunning! Saw a small deer running down a rocky stream. Lots of good birds too. Salento was full of little restaurants, lots of cheap ones serrving the typical colombian meal - starch, followed by starch, culminating in starch. Actually really good simple soup, wonderful fruit juice, a little meat/chicken/fish, french fries, rice, and patacones(smashed plantains fried into a patty)
They might even add a tortilla like arepa in case you haven't had your fill of starch. For this reason we've added to our "best things about Colombia" list. (fantastic scenery, great birds, nice people). - great Italian food. These are the places where you might actually score a salad, and lots of good pasta. Hope we're hiking off the extra calories. . . .
Our other nice hike from Salento was just a walk out of the town toward the many, many coffee farms of the area. We spent almost 5 hours just doing the easy walk along the dirt road admiring the scenery and looking at birds. Also stopped to watch a group play a fun colombian game- tejo- kind of like cornhole, but they toss a heavy rock like thing toward a mud bankboard with a center goal. The center goal is mined so that if you acutally ever hit it, it explodes. A really nice day. Here we saw the most spectacular bird (and this is saying a lot)-
a green jay. Really you must google it- bright green back, yellow belly, and dark blue and black face, amazing.
We had been trying to get more information about another nature reserve not too far from Salento because we had a day or two to burn before we needed to be back in Medellin. The website was defunct, telephone numbers we had didn't work. Then we happened to be walking in some woods just below the spectacular mirador in Salento (looks out on this magnificent valley) and got to talking to a young local couple. Turned out he was a dung beetle specialist
And had studied at this very reserve. So he kindly called his friend the administrator who then emailed us all the info we needed.
So we tore ourselves away from Salento, took a bus to a city slightly north called Pereirra
Where we were met by a jeep and a few folks from this reserve. Realizing that there would be neither beer nor wine nor TOWELS at his reserve bunkhouse, we asked them to stop to procure. We may not have the nerve to use our 6$ towels though as the showers are only cold.
So in an open jeep belching fumes all the way we left Pereirra and headed up to coffee fields again. Up, up, and up on bumpy dirt road. After about an hour we went up a short steep cement track. Here it developed that we would walk the last 20 minutes to the reserve. (some imprtant details are often misunderstood/ lost in translation). Fortunately (well for us anyway)'
Our assigned guide Mauricio, about 5'8 and 135 pounds hoisted my 17 pound small suitcase onto his shoulder and carried husband's similar sized one in his other hand. And along with Maria, the resident caretaker, cook, etc, we ambled down another trail, even through a piece of cloudforest. Mauricio seemed none the worse for wear on our 4 hour hike the next am.
So here we are today at La Nona reserve. We are the only guests here ( not too surprising you may no doubt be thinking, given the extensive wine list, fine shower opportunities, fine dining, and comfy beds). NOT. We immediately saw a pair of our favorite green jays. Ate a simple dinner on the bunkhouse porch cooked by Maria. Of course: good soup, rice, shoeleathr meat, potatoes- and actual cucumber. Practiced our Spanish with Maria and Mauricio.
Maria lives fulll time in the little house next to the bunkhouse with her reserve caretaker husband, yet to be seen, her 4 children, and her ancient grandmother. At 7am or so 3 of the 4 children hike out the gate and down the rainforest path to school. What a life. The bunkhouse is 5 or 6 rooms, each with 2 bunkbeds with a 2 inch mattress on slats. Two bathrooms around the corner via the porch. A beautiful open yard in front. Cloudforest behind. We slept fairly well all things considered and hiked in the cloudforest for 4 hours this am with Mauricio. A nice fello, working hard to learn the birds. Good company. Another beautiful forest and a nice trail. Didn't see a lot of birds though. Now back on the porch after a lunch of - wait for it-
Soup, shoe leather beef, rice, patacones, and slaw, and fruit juice. Soon we'll go back out with
M and walk the road a little. Then we'll come back for another starch dinner on the porch.
But its turned into a beautiful day, so it's really rather idyllic here. . .
Tomorrow we'll get up early, run down the cloudforest path to our jeep, bump along to thr Pererra airport, where we'll take a short flight back to civilization- Medellin for a few more days
at Noah and Marcela's b and b.
Feb 8th, 2012, 12:52 PM
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I think birders are a different group - I am amazed at how active you are! We arrived in Cartagena 2 days ago and my feet are hurting already. Mind you, my left knee (the so called bad one) gave me grief on the flight down, so I put a sleeve on it and next thing I knew, my foot and ankle were swollen to twice their normal size. So I aM being somewhat cautious.
Feb 13th, 2012, 11:39 AM
#25
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Our beautiful afternoon ar La Nona reserve near Pereirra was followed by a gorgeous clear evening with a full moon. We stood in the yard and looked at the moon and stars for quite some time before a good sleep on our hard bunks. We awoke just before light to the sound of pouring rain. Oh no! Worst case scenario. Couldn't imagine how we'd make it along a slick wet path for 20 mins in the pouring rain. Fortunately ot stopped by 7:30 when we needed to leave. And just before we'd seen the kids go out with just umbrellas and rubber boots to go to school.
We bid goodbye to our guide Mauricio at the "town" end of the path. Tipped him well for guiding us and carrying bags. Then husband and I piled in front seat of willy jeep with the driver and Maria and her youngest got in back, having erranda in Pereirra. We bounced along spewing fumes to the airport.
Arrived early for our flight to Medellin. Had some great coffee and did internet. Started to pour rain again. Stopped in time for our 10:50 flight on Lan. Taxi to Noah and Marcela's place in Medellin.
Had a lovely couple days in Medellin, this time actually seeing the city. So impressed by the progressive things they've done. Excellent on ground metro system that connects to two wonderful cable car lines. We rode them all. They afford fantastic views of the city. One cable car line crosses
Forest for some distance before reqching a peak where they're still workong to develop and expand a park. We reluctantly skipped doing park trails there, since we'd had many hiking experiences already. We wanted to get lunch and visit botanical gardens. Did stop and get off to look at one of the Bibliotecas (libraries) the city had built recently. Great modern building.
Had a nice lunch at lovely outside cafe at gardens. Small, but very pretty place. Lots of university students relaxing, studying on th grounds. Saw a few interesting birds. Stopped by the fantastic structur built for orchid display. People everywhere setting up for an event. A nice chat with a cop standing near informed us that Colombian President Santos would be speaking ther the next day....
Everywhere we've been in Colombia locals have been anxious to know how we like Colombia. And theyre really pleased when we effuse. They are obviously anxious to turn the image around and ensure that visitors get to see andknow the real Colombia.
Ate 3 meals at a nice outdoor pizza/italian joint in our Estadio nabe. Were we lazy or what? But food was great and it was a great corner for people watching. Finally on our last eve we took a cab to the more upscale nab of Poblado. Had a drink at one of many bars ther and then foumd the well known Carmen restaurant there. They seated us on the quiet inner patio area complete with bubbling brook
And tropical plants. Great service and delicious food. A very eclectic menu. Chef/owners are a US/Colombian. Most expensive meal yet- $113 for two included a. Ouple rounds of drinks, salads,
Entrees, and a shared dessert and tip.
Spent our second day in Medellin downtown in centro. Lots of walking. Lots of people down there ona Friday. Very intense. Enjoyed the Museo del Antioquia- A beautiful art deco building itself. Entire 3 rd floor is Botero paintings and sculpture. Botero was born in Medellin. Alos many of his sculptures in the plaza facing the museum. Earlier we had stopped by another large plaza where his bird sculpture stands that was damaged(and many people killed) in a bombing a decade ago. Botero agreed to do a second sculpture next to it, but only if the damaged one would remain as a reminder of that day's violence.
Actaully managed to find a onderful and cheap hole in the wall restaurant recommended by Noah.
Mango Madura (or something similar). Delicious set menu for about $7 for both of us.
On our last am in Medellin I went off to have a $20 french manicure and pedicure and husband went off in search of a Colombian bike jersey. Both wer successful. Then it was off to Cartegena.
We flew out of international airport, since we went Avianca and that's where they leave from. Though domestic airport is close in, this one is about an hour's drive from the city, about as long as the flight.
Now we're here in beautiful but hot Cartagena for 5 nights. Happy to say that Susan in Toronto managed to spot us in town and we two and our husbands had a delightful long lunch yesterday, exchanging travel stories. We're very happy with our no name secret b and b located inside the walls.
A beautiful plant filled courtyard and great breakfasts. A balcony area that allows us to do a little over the roof tiles birdwatching. Have so far circled the town, sat in plazas, watched the sun set into the sea
From the cafe del mar bar on the city walls. Walked to and explored with decent English speaking guide the San Felipe fortress. Had a terrific steak last night at the Patagonia restaurant (Argentine steak house). And mor to come. . . .
We bid goodbye to our guide Mauricio at the "town" end of the path. Tipped him well for guiding us and carrying bags. Then husband and I piled in front seat of willy jeep with the driver and Maria and her youngest got in back, having erranda in Pereirra. We bounced along spewing fumes to the airport.
Arrived early for our flight to Medellin. Had some great coffee and did internet. Started to pour rain again. Stopped in time for our 10:50 flight on Lan. Taxi to Noah and Marcela's place in Medellin.
Had a lovely couple days in Medellin, this time actually seeing the city. So impressed by the progressive things they've done. Excellent on ground metro system that connects to two wonderful cable car lines. We rode them all. They afford fantastic views of the city. One cable car line crosses
Forest for some distance before reqching a peak where they're still workong to develop and expand a park. We reluctantly skipped doing park trails there, since we'd had many hiking experiences already. We wanted to get lunch and visit botanical gardens. Did stop and get off to look at one of the Bibliotecas (libraries) the city had built recently. Great modern building.
Had a nice lunch at lovely outside cafe at gardens. Small, but very pretty place. Lots of university students relaxing, studying on th grounds. Saw a few interesting birds. Stopped by the fantastic structur built for orchid display. People everywhere setting up for an event. A nice chat with a cop standing near informed us that Colombian President Santos would be speaking ther the next day....
Everywhere we've been in Colombia locals have been anxious to know how we like Colombia. And theyre really pleased when we effuse. They are obviously anxious to turn the image around and ensure that visitors get to see andknow the real Colombia.
Ate 3 meals at a nice outdoor pizza/italian joint in our Estadio nabe. Were we lazy or what? But food was great and it was a great corner for people watching. Finally on our last eve we took a cab to the more upscale nab of Poblado. Had a drink at one of many bars ther and then foumd the well known Carmen restaurant there. They seated us on the quiet inner patio area complete with bubbling brook
And tropical plants. Great service and delicious food. A very eclectic menu. Chef/owners are a US/Colombian. Most expensive meal yet- $113 for two included a. Ouple rounds of drinks, salads,
Entrees, and a shared dessert and tip.
Spent our second day in Medellin downtown in centro. Lots of walking. Lots of people down there ona Friday. Very intense. Enjoyed the Museo del Antioquia- A beautiful art deco building itself. Entire 3 rd floor is Botero paintings and sculpture. Botero was born in Medellin. Alos many of his sculptures in the plaza facing the museum. Earlier we had stopped by another large plaza where his bird sculpture stands that was damaged(and many people killed) in a bombing a decade ago. Botero agreed to do a second sculpture next to it, but only if the damaged one would remain as a reminder of that day's violence.
Actaully managed to find a onderful and cheap hole in the wall restaurant recommended by Noah.
Mango Madura (or something similar). Delicious set menu for about $7 for both of us.
On our last am in Medellin I went off to have a $20 french manicure and pedicure and husband went off in search of a Colombian bike jersey. Both wer successful. Then it was off to Cartegena.
We flew out of international airport, since we went Avianca and that's where they leave from. Though domestic airport is close in, this one is about an hour's drive from the city, about as long as the flight.
Now we're here in beautiful but hot Cartagena for 5 nights. Happy to say that Susan in Toronto managed to spot us in town and we two and our husbands had a delightful long lunch yesterday, exchanging travel stories. We're very happy with our no name secret b and b located inside the walls.
A beautiful plant filled courtyard and great breakfasts. A balcony area that allows us to do a little over the roof tiles birdwatching. Have so far circled the town, sat in plazas, watched the sun set into the sea
From the cafe del mar bar on the city walls. Walked to and explored with decent English speaking guide the San Felipe fortress. Had a terrific steak last night at the Patagonia restaurant (Argentine steak house). And mor to come. . . .
Feb 24th, 2012, 05:01 AM
#26
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Managed to fill our 4 days in Cartagena simply walking around enjoying the town, sitting in the plazas taking in the scene. Had a great dinner at La Vitrola, well known restaurant with nice nightly combo playing Cuban music and also at Salou, another lovely spot where we had a nice cht with the chef and some delicious ceviche.
Thought of taking the bus to our next destination, Santa Marta, but our B and B owner suggested shared van door to door transport instead. At $60 for both this was considerably more expensive, but also eazier since the bus station is 45 min to hour from the old city anyway.
So next am we were picked up at 10 by a nice van. We stopped at another hotel and picked up 4 others and we were off. Cartagena to SM, about a 3 1/2 hour drive on a great toll road, was a pretty and interesting drive, quite alot of it with sea views. Driver pointed out vendors selling iguana eggs along the way, which he of course said were delicious.
Our driver dropped us at a hostel in tje heart of Santa Marta, where we had arranged to meet a taxi driver willing to drive us the 30 minutes on bad road to Minca, a very small town above Santa Marta. Hostel admin was nice enough to let us in off the street, use the bano and wait in shade inside. It was fun for us to see the inside of this very busy hostel, as we'd never been a part of that scene when younger. Our taxi driver and Minca resident Luis arrived as scheduled and we drove up and up, bouncing along to Minca.
Minca is just a handful of simple houses, church, school, a couple lodgings, and a few small tiendas and restaurants along a narrow river. It's become a jumpimg off point for several outdoor mountain actvities. The center of "town" hosts a few pool halls. As husband remarked, apparently locals are unable to shoot pool without blasting nonstop music. We were dropped at Hotel Minca up a driveway from center. This former convent, hacienda is now owned by the ProAves organization in Colombia, and hence frequented by many birders, as well as other general tourists. Rooms are rustic but comfortable, new big baths, some issues with hot water. Paid about $60 a night. Big porch on the back that overlooks valley with view of mountains in distance, hummingbird feeders on porch draw 7 species of hummers. Breakfast is included, but simple lunches and dinners are also available for $10. We spent 5 nights here. Walked twice a few miles up a dirt road to a local swimming hole, great and beautiful road, saw lots of good birds. Another day we walked in the opposite direction a few miles to a waterfall. Also a nice walk. Minca is on a small narrow river. We enjoyed walking along the river on Sunday, where there were many families out swimming and rleaxing around the little restaurants and bars along the river. Lots of people around the next day as well as loclas seemed to have a few holidays for Carnaval pre ash wednesday. In Minca We met some folks from Barranquilla who were escaping carnaval in their town. Met others later who talked about how much fun they always have. We didn't bother trying to go as we heard lodging in B was ridiculously expensive during carnaval.
After 5 nights in Minca we were transported by 4 wheel drive truck to our last pro aves reserve El Dorado up another 2 and 1/2 hour drive on impossible road. This is the nicest of all the 4 visited. New lodging with nice beds, new baths, and hot water showers with pressure. A two nice two story lodge common area. Good wi fi there. A big patio in front. Hummingbird feeders. 2 or 3 fairly easy well maintained paths. One leads to a great mirador with beautiful mountain a nd sea views. They are trying to attract condors to the area, none seen yet though. We walked those paths one day with a local guide. Today (my birthday) we hiked up the road in front of the lodge (1900 meters altitude) to 2700 meters, walking from 7am to 4:30pm, taking our time looking at birds, stopping for a picnic lunch at a small lagoon with beautiful views. A great day and not a bad effort for a woman of my advanced years. . . .
Lots of activity around the lodge the last two nights (where we've been among maybe a dozen guests at most. BBC Animal Planet people arrived to film a segment on Colombian wildlife. Trailing them are two Chinese guys doing a documentary in the making of the Tv segment. Tomorrow we'll recover from today's walk!
Thought of taking the bus to our next destination, Santa Marta, but our B and B owner suggested shared van door to door transport instead. At $60 for both this was considerably more expensive, but also eazier since the bus station is 45 min to hour from the old city anyway.
So next am we were picked up at 10 by a nice van. We stopped at another hotel and picked up 4 others and we were off. Cartagena to SM, about a 3 1/2 hour drive on a great toll road, was a pretty and interesting drive, quite alot of it with sea views. Driver pointed out vendors selling iguana eggs along the way, which he of course said were delicious.
Our driver dropped us at a hostel in tje heart of Santa Marta, where we had arranged to meet a taxi driver willing to drive us the 30 minutes on bad road to Minca, a very small town above Santa Marta. Hostel admin was nice enough to let us in off the street, use the bano and wait in shade inside. It was fun for us to see the inside of this very busy hostel, as we'd never been a part of that scene when younger. Our taxi driver and Minca resident Luis arrived as scheduled and we drove up and up, bouncing along to Minca.
Minca is just a handful of simple houses, church, school, a couple lodgings, and a few small tiendas and restaurants along a narrow river. It's become a jumpimg off point for several outdoor mountain actvities. The center of "town" hosts a few pool halls. As husband remarked, apparently locals are unable to shoot pool without blasting nonstop music. We were dropped at Hotel Minca up a driveway from center. This former convent, hacienda is now owned by the ProAves organization in Colombia, and hence frequented by many birders, as well as other general tourists. Rooms are rustic but comfortable, new big baths, some issues with hot water. Paid about $60 a night. Big porch on the back that overlooks valley with view of mountains in distance, hummingbird feeders on porch draw 7 species of hummers. Breakfast is included, but simple lunches and dinners are also available for $10. We spent 5 nights here. Walked twice a few miles up a dirt road to a local swimming hole, great and beautiful road, saw lots of good birds. Another day we walked in the opposite direction a few miles to a waterfall. Also a nice walk. Minca is on a small narrow river. We enjoyed walking along the river on Sunday, where there were many families out swimming and rleaxing around the little restaurants and bars along the river. Lots of people around the next day as well as loclas seemed to have a few holidays for Carnaval pre ash wednesday. In Minca We met some folks from Barranquilla who were escaping carnaval in their town. Met others later who talked about how much fun they always have. We didn't bother trying to go as we heard lodging in B was ridiculously expensive during carnaval.
After 5 nights in Minca we were transported by 4 wheel drive truck to our last pro aves reserve El Dorado up another 2 and 1/2 hour drive on impossible road. This is the nicest of all the 4 visited. New lodging with nice beds, new baths, and hot water showers with pressure. A two nice two story lodge common area. Good wi fi there. A big patio in front. Hummingbird feeders. 2 or 3 fairly easy well maintained paths. One leads to a great mirador with beautiful mountain a nd sea views. They are trying to attract condors to the area, none seen yet though. We walked those paths one day with a local guide. Today (my birthday) we hiked up the road in front of the lodge (1900 meters altitude) to 2700 meters, walking from 7am to 4:30pm, taking our time looking at birds, stopping for a picnic lunch at a small lagoon with beautiful views. A great day and not a bad effort for a woman of my advanced years. . . .
Lots of activity around the lodge the last two nights (where we've been among maybe a dozen guests at most. BBC Animal Planet people arrived to film a segment on Colombian wildlife. Trailing them are two Chinese guys doing a documentary in the making of the Tv segment. Tomorrow we'll recover from today's walk!
Feb 24th, 2012, 07:35 AM
#27
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It was a lot of fun to run into you, Judie! We got home very late last night (actually early this morning) and it's raining and windy here - winter storm, so I'm glad I'm not going anywhere today. Back to work on Monday, so I may work on my trip report.
Looking forward to reading the rest of your report.
Looking forward to reading the rest of your report.
Mar 7th, 2012, 08:05 AM
#28
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Back home now, so will wrap up my report of the last week or so of our fabulous two month trip.
I spent some time dithering over where to spend some last unplanned days of our itinerary before we needed to be back in Bogota for our return flight to the States. Husband was interested in perhaps going to the Los Llanos area - between Bogota and Venezuela - for a look at different terrain (plains area). I was interested in a little relaxing beach time. We considered different ways we might stay in or visit Tayrona National Park or go further toward Guajira peninsula. Found it difficult to locate overnight options in Tayrona in between ridiculously expensive (the Eco-Habs) or simple hammocks (thinking we're too old for that). A recommended spot in Guajira was full for the time we wanted.
Locals we talked to discouraged us from beach at Santa Marta or Rodadero - saying the beach wasn't that great and there were hassling vendors. Though some did seem to think the Irotama resort - with its own nicer beach- would be worth a stay. When I contacted them, available rooms were going to run more than $300 a night. So, in spite of reports that characterized Taganga as a ratty backpacker haven, we signed on for 3 nights at a little b and b up the hill a bit from the Taganga waterfront. Turned out to be a good choice.
So our transport arranged by the ProAves org bumped us down from our last bird reserve. Stopped briefly on the way down to the coast at Minca to drop off one of the ProAves guides. And then we were off to Taganga, a bit of a fishing village just over a mountain from Santa Marta. We got a breathtaking view of the Taganga Bay as we rounded the mountain and came into the village. Have to say that this was definitely the nicest part of the drive, as the road from SM to Taganga is marred by alot of trash (as are many side streets in Taganga itself). In fact, if we'd not known what awaited us at our b and B Casa Los Cerros, we might have turned around. A fair number of vacant buildings in Taganga too. . BUT behind a garage door/fence painted with "perros bravos" is the most delightful lodging. Here a charming Frenchman and his lovely Colombian wife have their home, a small pool with cabana and two separate ensuite rooms for lodgers (each with outdoor space and hammock in front). From this distance any way Taganga looks great. From the pool, cabana, and rooms, we had a beautiful view looking beyond the rundown side streets directly to the bay. We enjoyed a couple nice days of just relaxing, swimming in the pool, hanging in the cool cabana, and eating breakfasts and a few great dinners cooked by our excellent host Jean-Luc- great food at reasonable prices. Ana arranged a day trip for us to Playa Crystal beach in Tayrona. We decided we'd done enough hiking for the trip, so rather than bus to the Tayrona entrance and do the long beach walk, we joined a bus trip to the Neguange entrance from which we took a 15 minute boat trip to Playa Crystal, a nice swimming beach with gorgeous blue water. Had a decent simple fish lunch on the beach - offered by a single purveyor during the week. Nice time swimming and sunning, though, like Cartagena, Taganga, and Santa Marta at this time, it was VERY windy.
Our congenial host drove us to the Santa Marta airport next day, and we took an easy flight to Bogota. Rather than stay in Candelaria again as we had earlier in the trip, this time we opted to stay in the more upscale north of the city, since we'd explored the other end. Hotels I looked into in the far north were quite expensive, so we settle on Boutique Alma Hotel in the Chapinero area a little further south (Calle 57 or so). Nice enough area near a university. Rather charming older building. Efficient young staff, many of whom spoke English. Fabulous shower (you can see how I missed a good shower). We had two full days left to enjoy Bogota. Day 1 we just walked, and walked, and walked. All the way to Parque 93 from our hotel. An afternoon rainshower sent us into Juan Valdez on the park, where we waited for rain to let up and just people watched. . . Later that eve we had a great dinner at Oyster 69 about a 10 block walk from our hotel.
We spent our last Bogota day with a former English student of mine with whom I'd been corresponding during the trip. She and her amiable husband picked us up at our hotel at 9:30 and drove us all around the Bogota outskirts for the day. We visited the famous salt mine and several small pueblos around.
The countryside surrounding Bogota is beautiful. We had great views of the city as we returned. Had a drink at friends apt in the north before they delivered us back to our hotel after 7. It was a great way to end our trip - even if my brain was fried from speaking and listening to Spanish the entire day . . (guess we'll need several more trips to Latin America to see if there's any hope at all for my comprehension)
Flew back to DC the following day. What an easy 5 hour, direct, no time change flight!!
Highly recommend Colombia. If I get motivated I might write another summary report with more subjectivity to encourage more people to go now before the hoardes. Because clearly if the country can continue to improve safety - or at least keep a lid on problems - many, many more tourists will be coming.
I spent some time dithering over where to spend some last unplanned days of our itinerary before we needed to be back in Bogota for our return flight to the States. Husband was interested in perhaps going to the Los Llanos area - between Bogota and Venezuela - for a look at different terrain (plains area). I was interested in a little relaxing beach time. We considered different ways we might stay in or visit Tayrona National Park or go further toward Guajira peninsula. Found it difficult to locate overnight options in Tayrona in between ridiculously expensive (the Eco-Habs) or simple hammocks (thinking we're too old for that). A recommended spot in Guajira was full for the time we wanted.
Locals we talked to discouraged us from beach at Santa Marta or Rodadero - saying the beach wasn't that great and there were hassling vendors. Though some did seem to think the Irotama resort - with its own nicer beach- would be worth a stay. When I contacted them, available rooms were going to run more than $300 a night. So, in spite of reports that characterized Taganga as a ratty backpacker haven, we signed on for 3 nights at a little b and b up the hill a bit from the Taganga waterfront. Turned out to be a good choice.
So our transport arranged by the ProAves org bumped us down from our last bird reserve. Stopped briefly on the way down to the coast at Minca to drop off one of the ProAves guides. And then we were off to Taganga, a bit of a fishing village just over a mountain from Santa Marta. We got a breathtaking view of the Taganga Bay as we rounded the mountain and came into the village. Have to say that this was definitely the nicest part of the drive, as the road from SM to Taganga is marred by alot of trash (as are many side streets in Taganga itself). In fact, if we'd not known what awaited us at our b and B Casa Los Cerros, we might have turned around. A fair number of vacant buildings in Taganga too. . BUT behind a garage door/fence painted with "perros bravos" is the most delightful lodging. Here a charming Frenchman and his lovely Colombian wife have their home, a small pool with cabana and two separate ensuite rooms for lodgers (each with outdoor space and hammock in front). From this distance any way Taganga looks great. From the pool, cabana, and rooms, we had a beautiful view looking beyond the rundown side streets directly to the bay. We enjoyed a couple nice days of just relaxing, swimming in the pool, hanging in the cool cabana, and eating breakfasts and a few great dinners cooked by our excellent host Jean-Luc- great food at reasonable prices. Ana arranged a day trip for us to Playa Crystal beach in Tayrona. We decided we'd done enough hiking for the trip, so rather than bus to the Tayrona entrance and do the long beach walk, we joined a bus trip to the Neguange entrance from which we took a 15 minute boat trip to Playa Crystal, a nice swimming beach with gorgeous blue water. Had a decent simple fish lunch on the beach - offered by a single purveyor during the week. Nice time swimming and sunning, though, like Cartagena, Taganga, and Santa Marta at this time, it was VERY windy.
Our congenial host drove us to the Santa Marta airport next day, and we took an easy flight to Bogota. Rather than stay in Candelaria again as we had earlier in the trip, this time we opted to stay in the more upscale north of the city, since we'd explored the other end. Hotels I looked into in the far north were quite expensive, so we settle on Boutique Alma Hotel in the Chapinero area a little further south (Calle 57 or so). Nice enough area near a university. Rather charming older building. Efficient young staff, many of whom spoke English. Fabulous shower (you can see how I missed a good shower). We had two full days left to enjoy Bogota. Day 1 we just walked, and walked, and walked. All the way to Parque 93 from our hotel. An afternoon rainshower sent us into Juan Valdez on the park, where we waited for rain to let up and just people watched. . . Later that eve we had a great dinner at Oyster 69 about a 10 block walk from our hotel.
We spent our last Bogota day with a former English student of mine with whom I'd been corresponding during the trip. She and her amiable husband picked us up at our hotel at 9:30 and drove us all around the Bogota outskirts for the day. We visited the famous salt mine and several small pueblos around.
The countryside surrounding Bogota is beautiful. We had great views of the city as we returned. Had a drink at friends apt in the north before they delivered us back to our hotel after 7. It was a great way to end our trip - even if my brain was fried from speaking and listening to Spanish the entire day . . (guess we'll need several more trips to Latin America to see if there's any hope at all for my comprehension)
Flew back to DC the following day. What an easy 5 hour, direct, no time change flight!!
Highly recommend Colombia. If I get motivated I might write another summary report with more subjectivity to encourage more people to go now before the hoardes. Because clearly if the country can continue to improve safety - or at least keep a lid on problems - many, many more tourists will be coming.
Apr 9th, 2012, 11:16 AM
#31
great report! Thanks for taking the time to write it. we're thinking about Columbia this winter for our escape from DC...although I gather from reports that this past winter we didn't need to escape it was so mild.
Jun 10th, 2012, 11:54 AM
#34
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Have been meaning, forever, to post this link to a few of our pictures from our Colombia trip.
http://travel.webshots.com/album/582873866QBaxBE
Glad to see more folks are planning to go!! It's a beautiful country!
http://travel.webshots.com/album/582873866QBaxBE
Glad to see more folks are planning to go!! It's a beautiful country!
Sep 15th, 2012, 11:07 AM
#35
Glover: I just had the opportunity to read and enjoy this really interesting Trip Report. It is rich with various activities and meals, and oh those birds.
Thank you so much for posting. Columbia is definitely, now, on our list.
Thank you so much for posting. Columbia is definitely, now, on our list.
Sep 15th, 2012, 06:05 PM
#36
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Glad you enjoyed, Marnie. Hope you'll go to Colombia, it's really beautiful and people are super nice. I understand from yestravel that plans are afoot for DC GTG, maybe we'll meet there. We're off to Argentina this winter, so have been reading lots of your advice here and elsewhere.
