Galapagos.. questions about cruises, seasons, Quito hotels
Sep 21st, 2014, 01:21 PM
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Galapagos.. questions about cruises, seasons, Quito hotels
I am considering taking a cruise in the Galapagos, combined with a week or so on the mainland. This is an idea in the very early stages.
I've read trip reports here (thank you, ElizabethS, Eschew, Percy, and others who were so forthcoming with information) and on other online sites.
I have a few preliminary questions, and will no doubt have (many) more if we decide to take this trip.
1. Type of vessel? I've read many reports about various vessels that ply the general route through the islands. i've been captivated by the accounts of cruises on the smallest ships, especially the Haugan catamarans Cormorant and the Ocean Spray, which hold about 15 passengers each.
What would be the downside, and upside, of such small vessels, as opposed to ships that carry about 50 passengers? We would especially enjoy good food, and water-based activities. We do like our comforts, and would be willing to try the luxury vessels.
Would also enjoy an international group of fellow passengers, if that is possible.
2. Season (?) Because I like to be in the water, and would relish swimming with the various species in the islands' waters, what time of year would offer both warm water and calm seas? January to June appears to be the target season for these, but does the rain hamper enjoyment? (we would also like to avoid cruises with lots of children onboard)
3. East or West?? There appear to be two main routes for a week-long cruise. Which do you experienced Galapagos-goers prefer?
4. Quito: I've been to Quito on two separate trips, but these were both in the 1980's.
I am thinking of staying about a week in the city, including daytrips. Food will be a primary interest--markets, local restaurants, etc.
5. Cuenca. I remember that Cuenca was a beautiful Colonial city; should I plan to include Cuenca in the itinerary, now that it has become somewhat of a magnet for North American retirees, or so I've read (??)
Finally, if any one reading this has experience on "safari" in southern or eastern Africa,
please weigh in on comparisons.
I've read trip reports here (thank you, ElizabethS, Eschew, Percy, and others who were so forthcoming with information) and on other online sites.
I have a few preliminary questions, and will no doubt have (many) more if we decide to take this trip.
1. Type of vessel? I've read many reports about various vessels that ply the general route through the islands. i've been captivated by the accounts of cruises on the smallest ships, especially the Haugan catamarans Cormorant and the Ocean Spray, which hold about 15 passengers each.
What would be the downside, and upside, of such small vessels, as opposed to ships that carry about 50 passengers? We would especially enjoy good food, and water-based activities. We do like our comforts, and would be willing to try the luxury vessels.
Would also enjoy an international group of fellow passengers, if that is possible.
2. Season (?) Because I like to be in the water, and would relish swimming with the various species in the islands' waters, what time of year would offer both warm water and calm seas? January to June appears to be the target season for these, but does the rain hamper enjoyment? (we would also like to avoid cruises with lots of children onboard)
3. East or West?? There appear to be two main routes for a week-long cruise. Which do you experienced Galapagos-goers prefer?
4. Quito: I've been to Quito on two separate trips, but these were both in the 1980's.
I am thinking of staying about a week in the city, including daytrips. Food will be a primary interest--markets, local restaurants, etc.
5. Cuenca. I remember that Cuenca was a beautiful Colonial city; should I plan to include Cuenca in the itinerary, now that it has become somewhat of a magnet for North American retirees, or so I've read (??)
Finally, if any one reading this has experience on "safari" in southern or eastern Africa,
please weigh in on comparisons.
Sep 22nd, 2014, 06:03 AM
#2
I'll take a run at the Galapagos questions.
I usually start by recommending someone considering Galapagos picks up Barry Boyce's book "Travelers Guide to Galapagos". It's very well organized and answers when to go/where to go/differences in ship sizes/itinerary choices/etc. For us it was also very helpful in picking the exact ship, but I see it is now 10 years old so likely out of date for that. But the general information would still be valid and possibly you could get it from a library? Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Travelers-Gala.../dp/1588433897
1. Re size of vessel - there are a couple of considerations around that decision. First is how you tolerate motion sickness - bigger boats are more stable. And if you're interested in an itinerary that goes to the western side of Isabela it can be rough getting there (not an expert but that's what I read in Boyce's book and was told by boat operators).
Second is ability to move passengers around. If you're considering a larger boat (up to 50 pax) make sure they have enough zodiacs (pangas) to move all passengers at once, so you're not standing around waiting to be shuttled back and forth. We were on the Eclipse (max 48 pax) and they had enough to move us at one time.
Also regarding pluses/minuses of boat size is how you feel about being with 15 people in a small space for 7 nights. For some that would be fine; for others not. The smallest boat we've been on was 20 passengers for 4 nights which was fine, but to each his own. The Eclipse with its 48 passengers was still small enough for most moorings but large enough we were still "meeting" new people on board every day.
Re food - I'm going to stick my neck out here and assume that the bigger the boat the greater the selection/range of food. At least that's been our experience.
And re activities - snorkeling wasn't a prime consideration for us in choosing a boat so we lucked into one that offered it. It was a real highlight! We had so much fun in the water with the sea lions - all they wanted to do was play. And we saw penguins and I saw a cormorant "fly" underwater - beautiful!
2. Can't offer much re season (other than reading Boyce's book - quite a bit in it about weather by season). We were there in February and the weather was great - hot/humid on land but cool on the water and little rain.
3. East or West? Well, again the book will help choose the itinerary. I specifically chose west to see the flightless cormorants (only seen on the west side of Isabela). While you see many of the same animals/geology in each location there are important differences by location which can be a factor in deciding your itinerary (or not, some people just pick the boat/date they like and go with the flow)
We particularly enjoyed our time on Isabela (two nights) -- the little town is very cute and the Caldera is fascinating.
And finally your question about comparing to safari experiences - interesting way to think about it. We were in Tanzania in 3 camps. Galapagos has a similar feel/rhythm to a safari - up early (although not as early as Africa); morning activities; break during the peak sun hours (or swimming/snorkeling) then more activities in the afternoon.
It's a great destination - sure you'll love it!
I usually start by recommending someone considering Galapagos picks up Barry Boyce's book "Travelers Guide to Galapagos". It's very well organized and answers when to go/where to go/differences in ship sizes/itinerary choices/etc. For us it was also very helpful in picking the exact ship, but I see it is now 10 years old so likely out of date for that. But the general information would still be valid and possibly you could get it from a library? Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Travelers-Gala.../dp/1588433897
1. Re size of vessel - there are a couple of considerations around that decision. First is how you tolerate motion sickness - bigger boats are more stable. And if you're interested in an itinerary that goes to the western side of Isabela it can be rough getting there (not an expert but that's what I read in Boyce's book and was told by boat operators).
Second is ability to move passengers around. If you're considering a larger boat (up to 50 pax) make sure they have enough zodiacs (pangas) to move all passengers at once, so you're not standing around waiting to be shuttled back and forth. We were on the Eclipse (max 48 pax) and they had enough to move us at one time.
Also regarding pluses/minuses of boat size is how you feel about being with 15 people in a small space for 7 nights. For some that would be fine; for others not. The smallest boat we've been on was 20 passengers for 4 nights which was fine, but to each his own. The Eclipse with its 48 passengers was still small enough for most moorings but large enough we were still "meeting" new people on board every day.
Re food - I'm going to stick my neck out here and assume that the bigger the boat the greater the selection/range of food. At least that's been our experience.
And re activities - snorkeling wasn't a prime consideration for us in choosing a boat so we lucked into one that offered it. It was a real highlight! We had so much fun in the water with the sea lions - all they wanted to do was play. And we saw penguins and I saw a cormorant "fly" underwater - beautiful!
2. Can't offer much re season (other than reading Boyce's book - quite a bit in it about weather by season). We were there in February and the weather was great - hot/humid on land but cool on the water and little rain.
3. East or West? Well, again the book will help choose the itinerary. I specifically chose west to see the flightless cormorants (only seen on the west side of Isabela). While you see many of the same animals/geology in each location there are important differences by location which can be a factor in deciding your itinerary (or not, some people just pick the boat/date they like and go with the flow)
We particularly enjoyed our time on Isabela (two nights) -- the little town is very cute and the Caldera is fascinating.
And finally your question about comparing to safari experiences - interesting way to think about it. We were in Tanzania in 3 camps. Galapagos has a similar feel/rhythm to a safari - up early (although not as early as Africa); morning activities; break during the peak sun hours (or swimming/snorkeling) then more activities in the afternoon.
It's a great destination - sure you'll love it!
Sep 22nd, 2014, 04:21 PM
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Elizabeth: I cannot thank you enough for taking the time to answer this query, and many others that I have posted over the years. You really are an inspiration to me!
I had read your recommendation of the Boyce book but did not order because of fears it would be outdated. But now that I have looked at local libraries, and no found the book, I will proceed to order a copy in order to read more on the various itineraries.
I initially thought that the smallest ships would offer the best experience, but in thinking this over, and reading your post above, I now understand that this could be a gamble. A congenial and interesting group=perfect. Hopefully, a rage of nationalities. But one cannot predict the composition of passengers in advance. So a slightly larger ship, such as the Eclipse, might be the best bet as there would be more chance of meeting interesting travel companions of various nationalities. I confess that I would prefer to meet fellow passengers from various countries, rather than having the roster dominated by fellow Americans and (heaven forbid!!) fellow New Yorkers!!
So will look into both the smallest ships (Cormorant and Ocean Spray, to name two that caught my eye) and the slightly larger ones such as Eclipse and the others that hold about 48 passengers.
I will do further reading and return with more questions in the hopes that you will "stay tuned!"
I had read your recommendation of the Boyce book but did not order because of fears it would be outdated. But now that I have looked at local libraries, and no found the book, I will proceed to order a copy in order to read more on the various itineraries.
I initially thought that the smallest ships would offer the best experience, but in thinking this over, and reading your post above, I now understand that this could be a gamble. A congenial and interesting group=perfect. Hopefully, a rage of nationalities. But one cannot predict the composition of passengers in advance. So a slightly larger ship, such as the Eclipse, might be the best bet as there would be more chance of meeting interesting travel companions of various nationalities. I confess that I would prefer to meet fellow passengers from various countries, rather than having the roster dominated by fellow Americans and (heaven forbid!!) fellow New Yorkers!!
So will look into both the smallest ships (Cormorant and Ocean Spray, to name two that caught my eye) and the slightly larger ones such as Eclipse and the others that hold about 48 passengers.
I will do further reading and return with more questions in the hopes that you will "stay tuned!"
Sep 22nd, 2014, 04:48 PM
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To provide a different point of view, we were on a 16 passenger boat. We went in January, and it was warm enough to swim without a wetsuit. No rain. I get seasick, but didn't feel at all sick on the trip. The food was good, not amazing, but quite good, and I'm vegetarian so I assume meat eaters had more variety than I did.
Our boat was pretty international (Brazilians, Brits, Swedes, Americans), and no kids were on it. You could probably ask if the trip has families on it to determine if there will be kids.
As for luxuries, my biggest luxury was to sit on the upper deck with a gin and tonic each evening at sunset as we started our nightly trip to the next island. Saw lots of marine animals that way, and it was just amazing to be in such an incredible place. I also loved that as we boarded the boat after hiking or snorkeling, they had yummy snacks waiting for us. There wasn't a spa or any of those types of luxuries, but it was very comfortable!
Enjoy your trip!
Our boat was pretty international (Brazilians, Brits, Swedes, Americans), and no kids were on it. You could probably ask if the trip has families on it to determine if there will be kids.
As for luxuries, my biggest luxury was to sit on the upper deck with a gin and tonic each evening at sunset as we started our nightly trip to the next island. Saw lots of marine animals that way, and it was just amazing to be in such an incredible place. I also loved that as we boarded the boat after hiking or snorkeling, they had yummy snacks waiting for us. There wasn't a spa or any of those types of luxuries, but it was very comfortable!
Enjoy your trip!
Sep 23rd, 2014, 05:35 AM
#5
ek - you are more than welcome - my pleasure and the same sentiment backatcha!
It's funny regarding the size of the boat - I had assumed we would be on a small boat (going for the "realest" experience). As you may have seen in the blog because we were staying in Puerto Ayora we contacted a local travel agent and told her we could be ready on a moment's notice to leave on a cruise so that we could get a last minute special. Much to our surprise she offered us the Eclipse on a two for one basis which was a fabulous deal - we couldn't refuse! But I was a *little* worried our experience would be somehow less authentic! Shouldn't have worried! It was great.
pantanal - glad you had a great time. As mentioned we have also traveled in smaller boats/lodges and enjoy that experience very much.
It's funny regarding the size of the boat - I had assumed we would be on a small boat (going for the "realest" experience). As you may have seen in the blog because we were staying in Puerto Ayora we contacted a local travel agent and told her we could be ready on a moment's notice to leave on a cruise so that we could get a last minute special. Much to our surprise she offered us the Eclipse on a two for one basis which was a fabulous deal - we couldn't refuse! But I was a *little* worried our experience would be somehow less authentic! Shouldn't have worried! It was great.
pantanal - glad you had a great time. As mentioned we have also traveled in smaller boats/lodges and enjoy that experience very much.
Sep 23rd, 2014, 06:06 AM
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I haven't been to galapagos and so cannot comment except to say that when we spent a couple of months in Ecuador we did investigate galapagos trips in Quito and found it to be substantially cheaper to book there rather than from overseas.
We spent a month in Quito whilst learning Spanish and took a few side trips including Machachi by train (I would recommend the slightly longer trip to Latacunga) and a weekend in Otavalo. Both are worth doing and another popular trip is to Mindo cloud forest.
The food scene in Quito was ok but not especially memorable. had much better food elsewhere in South America. Maybe we should have tried bait harder. best meal we had was at Casa de Mi Abuela. probably the best food experiences were at the markets, particularly at Santa Clara market.
Cuenca is a very pleasant city and worth a visit (depending on how long you have on the mainland) Parque Nacional de Cajs id very beautiful.
Other highlights for us were Quilatoa Crater Lake and Chimborazo volcano near Riobamba.
there is more detail and lots of photos on our blog @ http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blo...ai/6/tpod.html
We spent a month in Quito whilst learning Spanish and took a few side trips including Machachi by train (I would recommend the slightly longer trip to Latacunga) and a weekend in Otavalo. Both are worth doing and another popular trip is to Mindo cloud forest.
The food scene in Quito was ok but not especially memorable. had much better food elsewhere in South America. Maybe we should have tried bait harder. best meal we had was at Casa de Mi Abuela. probably the best food experiences were at the markets, particularly at Santa Clara market.
Cuenca is a very pleasant city and worth a visit (depending on how long you have on the mainland) Parque Nacional de Cajs id very beautiful.
Other highlights for us were Quilatoa Crater Lake and Chimborazo volcano near Riobamba.
there is more detail and lots of photos on our blog @ http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blo...ai/6/tpod.html
Sep 30th, 2014, 09:52 AM
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We went in December. The weather was great. Overcast so not too hot. The water was at about 70-72 degrees as far as I remember. We did plenty of snorkeling.
We were on a ship with 20 other passengers. We did like the size of the ship. It was very bumpy on the way to Genevesa (we were told that it was typical) but totally fine sailing to all other islands.
We were on a ship with 20 other passengers. We did like the size of the ship. It was very bumpy on the way to Genevesa (we were told that it was typical) but totally fine sailing to all other islands.
Nov 19th, 2014, 06:22 AM
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Nov 19th, 2014, 01:53 PM
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Thanks Elizabeth! I can't wait to read it. I went through your report a while ago, when we first starting dreaming of going to the Galapagos, but it has been a while. I am trying to figure out how to fit a trip to the Galapagos in between trips to Africa. Sigh! There is never enough time!
Dec 2nd, 2014, 05:26 AM
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I just received Barry Boyce's book. I found it on Amazon for $3. Given that it was published in 2004, I was afraid the info in it would be very out of date and the book not terribly useful. However, the guide is packed full of useful/helpful information about the islands, and a very good read. Thanks for the suggestion Elizabeth.
Dec 8th, 2014, 07:41 PM
#15
I found a couple of agency websites that were well organized for laying out the different boat classes and the pricing and schedules into next year.
Probably www.sangay.com was the most useful for information.
It also shows approximate availability for given dates, under the tab "Last Minute Dates".
I did like Happy Gringo's thumbs up ratings for at least eliminating the one-thumb boats.
Probably www.sangay.com was the most useful for information.
It also shows approximate availability for given dates, under the tab "Last Minute Dates".
I did like Happy Gringo's thumbs up ratings for at least eliminating the one-thumb boats.
