I was going to the Netherlands with my sister (for the tulips) and my husband suggested we meet in Ireland after. I'd made a couple of weekend trips there as add-ons after work in years past, but he had never visited. He wanted to get a feel for the country and the people while seeing a limited number of sights. I wanted to get to some places I hadn't visited before.

We met at DUB and took the Dublin Express bus to a stop 2-3 blocks from the StayCity Aparthotel Dublin Castle. Easy to buy ticket at the bus/luggage under bus. StayCity allows book 12 noon check-in for a price. Basic studio with kitchenette and a free laundry room. Great staff. Long walk to most of our destinations. Freenow taxi to Heuston when we left.

Weather forecast when I left the US 10 days earlier was for cold, wind, and heavy rain. We got cold and wind the first few days but then sunshine and warm weather. Locals declared it a heat wave at 60F and thronged to the parks to soak in some rays.

Because my husband was flying in from the US, the only activity specifically booked for our first afternoon was Book of Kells. I booked tickets early online because I had read how they can sell out. We arrived 15-20 minutes early and they let us go in because it wasn't crowded. It worked well that we were in between the groups let in at ticket time and could see everything up close for 15 minutes, then it got crowded. We really enjoyed the informational displays, the book itself, library, and other artifacts. I was ambivalent about going to the Experience, but we did. It was OK. Of course, as my husband said, the printing in the Book is so small that it is much easier to see and appreciate the art in the enlarged displays and videos.

We window shopped menus along our route and stopped for an early dinner that turned out well. Stopped at a grocery to pick up breakfast food for our kitchenette (and a few sweets for dessert) then decided that was enough for my husband's first day.

Dublin was just as busy and crowded as I remembered.

We walked around Trinity College, Merrion Square and St Stephens Green. I would like to stay near the Green so I could pop in there in the early morning or in the evening for a nice break from the city.

The Samuel Beckett Bridge is lovely.

I wanted to go to EPIC but when we had time available my husband didn't want to go to a museum, so that will have to wait.

At end of trip we stayed at the Ashling Hotel near Heuston Station arriving by train and departing to DUB via Dublin Express bus. The room was fine. The food was good.

Newgrange was top of my list this trip. We were able to do it on our own for a nice day out of the city. I booked tickets when they opened in advance, but a few were still available at some times just a few days before we arrived. We took a train from Connolly to Drogheda and then the local bus 163 to the visitors center and return the same.

The bus was on time so we were early for our entrance ticket. They would have sent us directly into the museum, but there was a line at the ticket desk because of some problem so the greeter suggested we go to the cafe for a little while. Great pastries, coffee and tea to go with the sandwiches we brought with us so we didn't try anything more substantial. Back to the museum (which we enjoyed) and then on the bus to Newgrange and Knowth and back to Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. Wonderful guides. We learned a lot. The weather was clear but windy, creating blowing waves of grass across the landscape. I could have used a little more time just to wander and soak it in, but I didn't want to hike back to the visitor centre along the tiny roads. We had a bit more time in the centre before our bus so we used the restroom, hit the small gift shop and drooled over the pastries again. Really glad I made it this time!

My husband expected a castle on the trip without specific expectations, so I chose Trim Castle. We took Bus 111 from Busaras bus station to Trim. We could have boarded on Connolly St a little closer to our hotel, but I thought it would be easier to board at the start of the route rather than a city bus stop. I was impressed with the clean, free restrooms at the bus station.

The weather was freezing cold with a strong wind, adding some drama to our visit. At the ticket window we were told there would be a tour in about an hour if enough people showed up so the attendant recommended a sandwich shop just down the road for a quick lunch. It was a good recommendation. When we returned, she said there were enough people and the tour was starting in 5 minutes. Another great guide (kept telling us we should have been there for the cold in February) giving us general history as well as the history of the castle as we climbed up, in and out of the ruins. Really enjoyed. After the tour, we walked around the site, then walked to the other ruins nearby before going to the bus stop to return to Dublin.

Only downside to the Trim experience was another group of American tourists on the tour--6 middle aged men from the Northeast. None were properly dressed for the weather, some without even a jacket. They were late for the tour and came running. One seemed well informed and asked some intelligent questions, answered some questions the guide asked. Several were acting rather juvenile. When we were up on the highest floor of the ruin, we looked down to see 2 of them hurrying across the room to exit the castle. The guide was aghast. "They left?" "They're gone?" One of the remaining said that they needed to use the restroom which led to them joking about the size of their bladders. The guide kept telling me (I happened to be first in line behind him), "I could get in real trouble." He was understandably really upset.

I hadn't made it to the west coast on previous trips so we included the Burren, Doolin and Kilkee Cliffs in our itinerary.

We took the train to Limerick, the Expressway bus to SNN for rental car pick up and on the road to Kilkee Cliffs. Parked by the beach and found a small bakery/cafe for lunch. Nice lunch and bought sweets for later, then drove to the cliffs for a walk. Still very windy but not so cold, so dramatic walk watching the birds along the cliffs. We returned the way we came and drove on to Doolin and the Pier House, a traditional bed and breakfast with extremely talkative host, the best scones we've ever tasted, and views of Moher and a pitch and putt golf course. Only negative is that the hosts either smoke in their quarters or else the house used to allow smoking--it had just a vague odor. Dinner at O'Conner's Pub for two nights. By now I was finding lots of good "soup of the day" at most of our stops which to me is an ideal meal with some local bread.

We drove through the Burren with stops at the Visitor Center and nearby church/crosses, Carron Church, Megalithic tomb, etc. We had a list of potential stops that we didn't make it to as my husband was tired of driving so we got on the N67 and headed back to Doolin for a walk along the coast. I had trouble deciding when planning the trip whether to stay another night in Doolin to ensure a day to boat to an island or head on to Killarney to give another day there. With the expected heavy cold rain, the boat trip didn't sound likely so we booked to go on to Killarney and Pier House was full the next night. Turns out the weather was clear but strong winds. The boats were running so we could have made the trip. Still on the list of places to visit.

My husband is a pilot and it was sort of along the way, so we drove via Foynes to the Flying Boat Museum. I sort of wanted to take the ferry across the Shannon but we stuck with easy and took the highway around. The museum was educational and a little strange, partially due to the connection to Maureen O'Hara.

Our third base on the trip was Killarney. I had been there for a couple of days years ago and enjoyed the Gap of Dunloe hike so I wanted my husband to experience. We booked an AirBnB about 1 mile SE of the center and Killarney House and Gardens. On my previous trip I stayed at a B&B near the center and remembered it as a busy tourist town. Now it has exploded! Buses, cars, crowds of people. Parents blocking the road to pick up school children. Road construction. The weather was now sunny with temperatures above 60F on the weekend. All the locals were out walking, cycling, eating ice cream, lying on the lawn at Muckross House.

We walked to Killarney House. Nice walk along the stream/river to Ross Castle before it got too crowded. Returned to the House/gardens and went through the museum. Didn't realize how much was upstairs so should have quickly skimmed first floor then gone up sooner.

We drove to Muckross House, walked in the pretty garden, went on a trail along the lake and met others who were as confused as us about the trail system but found our way to a main route eventually. Earned our delicious ice cream. I'd toured Muckross before and enjoyed it. My husband offered to join me if I wanted to tour again, but the weather was so fine I agreed with the locals that it was better to be outside.

We drove to Kate Kearney's Cottage to climb up the to the top of the Gap of Dunloe for a picnic and back. It was a lovely day with many sheep, some birds, some wildflowers, scenic lakes, and views in both directions from the gap (with some strong wind). An enjoyable walk. It is a road, so one does have to pay attention and find places to step aside for traffic. Most of the traffic was local residents, tradesmen, and horse trailers; however, some tourists chose to drive even though it is discouraged. The walk was as enjoyable as I remembered. The last time I joined a small tour group that included a van ride to the start of the trail and a boat to Ross Castle at the other end. I didn't enjoy the cold/windy boat ride that much and we had a car this time so we just hiked and liked it just fine.

On our additional day, my husband decided he didn't want to drive any of the rings (I'd planned on Dingle). The driving was just too tiring. I thought about trying to locate a driver (none of the group tours suited our interests), but we decided instead to drive up to Ladies View and on to Kenmare, then return by an alternate route. The view was great. The bridge and stone circle in Kenmare were interesting but lots of tourists climbing and sitting on the stones. Loved the lace center above the visitors center. We talked a long time with the woman who spearheaded reviving lace making. She demonstrated the different techniques and explained all the displays. I bought a handmade piece for myself and a gift.

We love to walk and use public transportation when practical. We don't like to drive in foreign countries if we can avoid it. Private tours are great if we can find the right guide and price. Small group day tours if they stop where we want. Haven't found that large group tours or multiday tours fit our priorities.

Our train trips went well. Only one delay and a lot of confused passengers transferring at Limerick Junction (the train wasn't at the usual location on the platform). No problem finding room for our luggage. I bought tickets and reserved seats in advance with Irish Rail to smooth the experience. I thought the prices reasonable. Helpful station personnel at Heuston and Drogheda. I saw one coffee/pastry shop in Heuston had all the business while others deserted so we went there. They gave a chocolate truffle with each purchase (we got dark chocolate).

Our bus trips also went well. The local bus in Drogheda was waiting outside the station, the driver inside. I asked if we should wait at the bus stop, but he welcomed us on board to wait 10 minutes while he ate a snack. We paid cash for a roundtrip ticket to Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. We had a delightful and educational discussion. He is a veteran who then drove the route until retirement, but he didn't make any retirement plans so returned to the job after 3 weeks. He told us where to meet in the parking lot for our return. We were early, so he joined us for another long chat before we all headed back.

Busaras personnel helpful and announced bus departures (it was a little late and they were shifting buses around so a little confusing). I don't remember how we paid for tickets. I think I mentioned the clean restrooms. Waiting for the bus in Trim with many others, a local woman (retired school teacher impression) was telling school children and others about the app to use to see where the bus is and kept us all informed. It was late due to traffic.

At Limerick, I think we bought the SNN bus ticket from the machine then waited by the door. Nice personnel asked which bus and made sure we knew when time to board. Plenty of under bus space for luggage.

Dublin Express bus rep met us at foot of escalator at DUB, asked what route, told us how many stops and sold us tickets. I bought one-way in case we decided we didn't like the bus, but it was fine with plenty of under bus luggage space. We did take the bus back from Heuston station. Paid the driver with credit card. A little behind schedule.

The FreeNow app gave us a discount on our first ride. A taxi agreed to arrive within 5 minutes and safe ride to Heuston.

Killarney is testing a bus on demand system for just 2 euros but we didn't try it.

Budget pick up at SNN was OK. Car had scratches, a hole in back seat, but ran well and we thought the scratches we added on one local road would be in good company. Liam at Budget in Killarney went above and beyond for us. Another couple we met weren't happy. They had problems from their Budget car from pickup. They returned it in Killarney and were headed to Kerry Airport to pick up a replacement. We found roads ok as long as we stuck to M, N, and R roads. I planned out every route in detail with only essential L roads and yet we still ended up on one L road that was classic one lane with gorse on both sides and no decent pull outs. Hate mini-roundabout in Killarney. Had to negotiate a bicycle road race one day. Husband found the driving much more tiring than in Australia or New Zealand.

I mentioned that we only had a few specific sights we wanted to see in Ireland and we couldn't fit them all in the 10 days. No Rock of Cashil. No Aran Island. No EPIC. No Northern Ireland with Devil's Causeway. Also, the driving was tiring so we didn't go to Dingle Peninsula.

However, we get a chance to walk a lot and talk to lots of people, so we satisfied my husband's desire to "get a feel" for the country as much as one can in one short trip. I have several Irish friends through work, but we usually talk about work related topics or travel when we meet; not so much about our countries, their histories, culture etc. Our bus driver in Drogheda explained a lot of Irish history, told us about local nature. A train station worker in Drogheda told us about the Irish military and his service. Our B&B host talked with us about Irish music, what it's like living in a small town off season. Our AirBnB host talked about the growth in Killarney and what it means to local residents. An art student on the train shared the process of entering and exploring various media in art college. We learned about lace making. Everyone had a favorite local restaurant to suggest. We enjoyed each and every interaction throughout the trip.