Hello Fodors

So I felt I needed a getaway from Montreal this Easter break where I have a long weekend. I needed to send a package, which is much cheaper by USPS domestically, so decided to do a close-by adventure stateside. Flights seemed too pricey for a short getaway to my mother who lives in the DC suburbs. I could have gone to Plattsburgh which is closest but thought I’d never been to Montpelier, saw it was $40 by bus and was sold.

One little fun fact is that Montreal is closer geographically to Montpelier than it is to la Vieille Capitale aka Quebec City. Montpelier is however about 4 hours by bus; the border went quite smoothly given we had a full bus of 46 passengers, but there was maybe a half hour wait in Burlington, the first major stop in the US—I think they build a delay into the schedule in case the border crossing goes slowly.

Even thought Vermont is very close, I really have spent little time in the state. Burlington is the only place in the Green Mountain State I sorta kinda have visited. I did an interview for UVM eons ago for graduate school but you’re doing mostly interview stuff on the campus although I recollect going to a pub near Church Street as part of that. Then about 4 years ago, I milled around Church Street Marketplace for about an hour before catching a flight. Passing through Burlington again yesterday made me think I need to give the city a proper visit soon. Other than the general charming look of the establishments in town, it really is an attractive city—yesterday seemed sort of special with white caps on Lake Champlain and the water was such a truly beautiful colour—no idea why. As for Montpelier, although I have seen Montpelier before, it has only been from a bus window when the Boston-bound bus I’ve been on has passed through. This trip was the first time I ever got off to explore, for a 2 night stay.

Now, I had thought to go to Vermont before for a long weekend but when I had thought to go, prices were always exorbitant (for example, for Labour Day weekend and Canadian Thanksgiving) for accommodation in both Montpelier and Burlington. My suspicion is the prices were due to leaf colour enthusiasts or Vermont’s popularity in milder weather. The price at the Hotel Capital Plaza in the heart of Montpelier this Easter weekend was quite reasonable, however, which was another reason I jumped and decided to go. I imagine that Easter is less expensive as weather can be a bit of a dice roll, with the possibility of snow even or muddy trails, where someone coming from afar for a special trip wouldn’t want to take the risk. I got lucky though as this weekend has just been delightful in the 50s with a fair amount of sun. And the trails were not too muddy (although I did slip in mud but that’s my own fault as there was a dry area next to a muddy area and I lost balance lol).

*Thoughts on Downtown Montpelier and hiking in Hubbard Park to come. Photos will be included*

*Exploring downtown Montpelier and Hubbard Park*

I knew already that Montpelier was charming-looking as the bus goes right into the heart of town. Actually, the bus stop was about a 1-minute walk from my hotel and passes maybe 30 seconds prior to the stop right next to the beautiful gold-domed Vermont State Capitol with the Ceres statue on top. The intersection of State & Main around which one can find numerous unique local stores and restaurants is only a few minutes walk away. Loved being somewhere so walkable.

I also loved the bridges over the North Branch of the Winooski River and the way buildings abut the river. Hubbard Park is right there; such a treat to have with miles of trails that bring one to a lovely boreal escape. My goal to find a certain tower failed my first day of hiking; I somehow got off course on something now as tne Corse Trail (pun intended) but it still was a delightful boreal escape. Today though accessing the park from a trail next to the State Capitol building, I got, after a 0.5 mile climb to the top of the Hubbard Park Tower deliberately built in 1930 to offer beautiful views of mountains surrounding; a climb I would describe as easy to moderate (maybe closer to moderate but I managed it so maybe closer to easy?) but well worth the effort (despite slipping in mud) and one also gets photo-op views of the gold dome and Ceres from a higher vantage point.

*State Capitol*

My now 11th state house visit (I honestly don’t deliberately set out to visit them lol), this was the first I did that only offered a self-guided tour, with an audio wand. The audio was well-done and you could choose to listen to more detail (on furnishings, history, art, etc…) or not as you chose after listening to basic information in each section. The Senate with some beautiful green curtains was small with a distinctive oval ceiling giving the impression of being in an oval room. The House of Representatives room was much grander with 30 beautiful red chairs set out beside the rostrum. Both rooms had lovely ornate chandeliers. Another interesting detail was in tne lobby—the black and white tile floor where the black parts used rock that had remnants of fossils one could see! In one lovely room used for entertainment, a portrait of the (Civil War) Battle of Cedar Creek that involved the Vermont Brigade by Julian Scott was quite special, as the artist painted the faces of actual soldiers who had fought in the battle. A smaller State Capitol than some, but like all I’ve been to, well-worth visiting. I was sorry I had eaten beforehand as their cafeteria looked quite good!

*Vermont Historical Society Museum*

This museum made me realize how little Vermont history I knew. At the State House, I learned that presidents Calvin Coolidge (Silent Cal) and Chester Arthur hailed originally from Vermont despite strong later associations with Massachusetts or New York politics. I did not realize Joseph Smith (Mormon founder), Stephen Douglas and John Deere were Vermonters or that Norman Rockwell, Robert Frost and Sinclair Lewis moved to Vermont. I also learned poor Ira Allen, Ethan Allen’s brother, who donated money to found UVM, died a pauper in Philadelphia. I think I may have known but forgot that Ethan Allen attacked Montreal (but was captured).

The term woodchucks for native Vermonters and flatlanders for those from elsewhere I think I may have heard once before (possibly when visiting UVM?) but had long forgotten. The term Yorkers and Grants was also unfamiliar to me and I’m still not quite clear on entirely who these factions were. The Grants seemed to be those living on Vermont territory; it said that when the Yorker sheriff killed 100 unarmed farmers who resented NY land speculation in the Westminster Massacre, that this event rallied some Grants to the Green Mountain Boy cause. Seems some in early Vermont did not seem to like the Yorkers (are they New Yorkers or pro-NY, not sure?) and Samuel Adams was warned not to speak of Green Mountain Boy violence or in favour of Yorkers. Things seemed genuinely tenser than I imagined in Revolutionary War times in Vermont, and helped me understand why the state joined later as the 14th state.

I liked learning about Matthew Lyon (the Spitting Lyon) , a Jeffersonian who spat and brawled with federalist Roger Griswold. Vermonters a plaque said voted for him while in a jail in Vergennes.

Vermont apparently only reluctantly supported the War of 1812 as there was lucrative trade being done with British Canada to the north, including smuggling, some of which I should have realized was occurring through where is now known for skiing, Smuggler’s Notch. A Vermonter named Cyrus Dean was hanged for smuggling goods by boat in the Black Snake affair.

I learned that Vermont elected an Antimasonic Party governor and voted for candidates in this party. I had never heard of this party before (had short-lived support in early half of 19th century). Or that Vermont in 1853 had a passing referendum on the total prohibition of alcohol.

I also didn’t know Confederates raided banks in St. Albans right by Canada during the Civil War; surprised me that such things could have occurred so far away from Confederate territory!

Interesting to learn of inventions coming from Vermont too such as hay rakes and the Cooley Creamer that separates milk and cream with cook water. Anyway, making a short story long, the Vermont History Museum is smaller than some state history museums but is well-done, I certainly left better educated and I felt my $9 was well-spent.

*Concluding thoughts*

Coming to Montpelier was just the escape I needed from urban living. Calm, friendly, with charming streetscapes & architecture and best of all some nice hiking trails into nature easily accessible. Just what the doctor ordered!

Happy travels. Daniel

Vermont State Capitol

North Branch of Winooski River (learned Winooski is Abenaki for onion, I wonder why they named the river “onion”? If it is somehow onion-like?

View walking down from Hubbard Park

House of Representatives Vermont State Capitol

Hubbard Park Tower

View from top of Hubbard Park Tower

Loved the bridges over the North Branch of the Winooski River

Hi William, You always rake very interesting trips. We have been to Vermont many times but missed Montpelier, so thanks for another great TR. Your descriptions of the city paint a lovely picture for me.

I understand about the cost of mailing the package across the border. I recently mailed a very small, light weight package from the US to Canada and the postage, duties, etc would have more than covered your train ticket and local postage.

thanks again

Hi Daniel --

Although I lived in Vermont for a couple of years, on and off, I never visited Montpelier. Sounds like I missed a trick.

You've got me thinking I'll have to visit the State House in Providence.

Thanks for the report and pictures!

Oldemalloy and Fradiavolo—Thanks as always for your kind comments. For my part, I look forward to visiting other areas of Vermont, although wouldn’t mind a return to Montpelier either—I felt so relaxed and happy during my stay. I haven’t gone wrong with a state house visit yet—so I would imagine the one in Rhode Island to be quite interesting! Happy travels! Daniel

Daniel, as usual, I enjoyed you wonderful trip report.
Your ability to travel without renting a car is wonderful.

Happy to "pile on" and write that I enjoy your trip reports, and your travel style, as well.

Thanks schmerl and fourfortravel! I do have to do my research for carless travel and I know there is so much I can’t do. However, I don’t seem to run out of travel ideas, admittedly some atypical. Happy travels to you both!

I enjoy reading your "careless travel" reports. Thanks for sharing.

Daniel, another very interesting report. I learned a lot from the details about your visit to the Historical Society Museum. Montpelier had major flooding from a rainstorm in July of 2023. It took a lot of time and money to recover from the damage. Did you see any remnants of the damage? Thank you for another great report.

esm—Thanks for reading and commenting!

gomiki— Thanks for your comments! An employee commented that one of the elevators at my hotel was not functioning as a result of the flood, but that was the only effect of the flood that I heard about or observed in my short stay. The Winooski River and its North Branch are a part of the beauty of Montpelier cutting right through town, however, while not terrifically wide, the current looked powerful.

Hi Daniel,
I enjoyed your report and photos very much. We visit Vermont quite frequently now that our youngest daughter lives there. One time when we were visiting her, we drove to Montpelier for the day, and I agree it's a very pretty city. Unfortunately, the State House and Historical Museum were closed when we were there, but we enjoyed strolling along the Main Street and stopping into some stores and bought gifts for our grandchildren. I remember the stores are small, independently owned stores. We had a delicious lunch at an Italian restaurant located on the river.

I know Robert Frost lived in Vermont. He wrote his poem, "Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening" while living in Vermont. And I know that Calvin Coolidge was born in Vermont. In fact, you can visit the Calvin Coolidge Homestead in Plymouth Notch. We haven't made it there yet but hopefully one day soon. But I learned a lot I didn't know from your report.

Oh, and we were in Vermont for Easter weekend, too . . . celebrating with our daughter and her family.

Glad to hear you enjoyed your visit!

Hi Karen

Thanks for your comments. I was lucky that I got to see the State Capitol as visiting is a weekday affair—Good Friday was a holiday for me, but not in Vermont. My bus arrived around Noon on the Friday and after lunch and visiting the post office, I went directly to the State Capitol, where things were business as usual. The Historical Society Museum thankfully was also open on Saturday.

As for Calvin Coolidge, I remembered something some out-of-state graduate students said to me when interviewing for graduate school, that Vermonters could be people of few words. No idea how true that is, but I thought that “silent” Cal fit that concept.

How fortunate you are to have a daughter living in a state with such beauty. Glad you get to enjoy some side excursions when visiting her!

Best wishes, Daniel

Really enjoy your reports, also, and how you do so much without a car. I visit Vermont usually twice a year as my sister lives there and I always go in winter to ski. I've been to Montpelier several times as something to do in my down time when I stay in Waterbury for skiing. Winooski really means at the land of wild onions as onions or leeks, which are a mild type of onion in that family. They grew wild along the river banks there. Don't know if they still do. St Johnsbury is another town worth visiting.

Thank you, Christina for commenting and for the clarification on Winooski. You see a number of businesses with part of the name as Onion River in Montpelier and Burlington, so I’m glad I now know why. How great to have a sister in the state and be able to visit twice a year!

As always, your TRs and photos transport, Daniel. Thanks for visiting Montpelier. I might have visited there had I attended Middlebury for French studies in the way back when. If only car-less travel was the norm.

Hi Tdudette-- Thank you! Funny you mention Middlebury as my mother did a French immersion there in the way back when. She tells a funny story of a guy who took classes with her, where use of English was strictly forbidden. He spoke French very properly and when they left, he drove her somewhere. Her surprise was profound when she heard his thick New Jersey accent speaking English. I'd like to visit Middlebury-- doable but trickier than Montpelier from Montreal without a car. Best wishes, Daniel

You are welcome, Daniel. Your TRs really are great.

My French classes were heavy on literature but light on travel vocabulary. It wasn't until DH and I met a cartesian mathematician on a train to Versailles that I was able to stand and say, "Je pense, donc je suis!" Otherwise, we were relieved so many folks spoke English. Did your mother teach French?

Tdudette— Thanks again 😊! Yes, my mother did teach French at the elementary school level at one point.