Il Calabrese: a photo essay (inc. a bit of Rome)
#1
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
Il Calabrese: a photo essay (inc. a bit of Rome)
Hello fellow travelers. We are going to mix things up this time. This photo essay will be the intro to a three-part TR detailing our voyage to Calabria and Rome last spring 2024. If you've seen any of our previous photo-heavy TRs, then you'll know the drill: a quirky combo of music, humor, logistical tips and imagery. But unfortunately, there'll be no actual musical selection in this one. YouTube has vexed us by somehow disallowing any further downloads of songs. Whatever the case may be, my wife Mrs Z and I hope that those who may be Calabria-bound will find something of use in the pages ahead. Topics across the three sections will include: Tropea, Capo Vaticano, Pizzo, Scilla, Pentedatillo, the people of Calabria and the residents of Rome. The latter pair will comprise this Part One. Enjoy!

Calabria is a great place to visit, both for travelers and also folks with Calabrian heritage visiting on heritage tours. Stanley Tucci's parents were both born there. As for lodgings, we have two rentals to recco: a splurge villa in Tropea plus a unique waterside property in Scilla's most picturesque Chianalea neighborhood. Details to follow. (pron. Scilla=SHE-elah and Chianalea=kee-anna-layah)

We flew from Toronto to Rome. There was a spectacular harvest moon that night in Toronto, one which reflected onto Lake Ontario. From Roma, we then flew down to Lamezia Terme then taxied to Tropea.

We'll show a bit more about the relaxing Capo Caticano spa later on.

"ITS CAPO VATICANO WITH A 'V' YOU MORON!!!" (Bianca the Chianalea Queen)

Swimmers may think that they've died...

and gone to heaven. What follows will be exclusively PEOPLE, both Calabrians and also Romans.

Stylish older man.

Stylish younger man.

Attractive younger couple in Tropea.

Similarly young Tropean accordion player.

Proud Roman guitarist.

Chianalea lady.

Pizzo APE driver.

Our wonderful Tropea landlady, Ginevra. On her recommendation, we had planned to check out her relative's similar rental at a Le Marche vineyard later that year (2024) but a combo of its renos plus our new knee issues caused us to pivot and travel elsewhere.

Tropea women.

Tropea teen.

Tropea toddler.

Scilla gelato shop owner (see vitamin 'G').

Pizzo teens.

A Roman woman visiting Tropea.

A Scilla produce vendor. There will a separate FOOD/DRINK section further on here in our TR.

Do Scilla shadows count as 'people'?

Well OK, if shadows count too.

A Tropean fisherman.

A school excursion visiting Chianalea. The Palazzo Scategna hotel where Stanley Tucci ate at the 'Il Principe' restaurant during his CNN show is seen behind. The boy in the middle with the dark cap and I had a nice chat while gingerly trying each other's mother tongues. Eventually, we gave him one of our Canadian flag pins. He later tracked us down in an alley to proudly show us that pin attached to his cap. Everyone smiles in the same language.

Shown here is the infamous Interpol secret agent 'Little Billy'. He cleverly disguises himself as a young boy. 'LB' frequents international harbors in order to track down illicit drug shipments. He always brings his shirtless dad along as part of his ruse. Beware.

Scilla is synonymous with swordfish hunting. We will show a dedicated section about that long-standing tradition later on here.

Ay raggazzi! More teens in Pizzo.

Friendly Francesco owns Casa Vela, a combo lodging/wine-bar and breakfast place located in the heart of Chianalea. He also owns the newest vacation rental in Pentedatillo (shown above). 'Pente' is a sort of Calabrian Matera south of Reggio Calabria that is just now opening up. It is an intriguing site located on the margin of the remote Aspromonte Park. We visited as a daytrip with Francesco's pal, the Reggio-based guide Lorenzo Labate. We will show more Pente plus more Lorenzo later.

Does whimsical art count as 'people'? (Pentedatillo)

Does more whimsical art count too? (Pizzo)

Pizzo renovator who insisted that I take his portrait.

Do mock Saracen pirate raiders from a Tropean fest count as people too?

Do dragonflies count as people?

Vatican guards.

Roman street poet.

Roman throng at popular 'Pizzarium' shop. Locals and tourists alike are attracted by the sheer variety of inventive flavors. One takes a number and waits. And waits. By design, we rented close by their smaller and FAR less crowded alternate bakery in Prati. But we wanted one experience of visiting their main shop shown above.

Gabriele was a 26 yr old DJ and Lazio soccer fan whose politics were hard-right. He was accidentally killed several years ago during an off-site soccer riot, when a traffic cop pulled his gun and unintentionally made Gabriele a martyr for the conservative cause.

Roman fountain scene near Piazza Navona in Pigna.

Mrs Z relaxes poolside at our fantastic Tropea rental. it was wrenching to leave.

Next: Tropea itself, our rental villa plus food.

Calabria is a great place to visit, both for travelers and also folks with Calabrian heritage visiting on heritage tours. Stanley Tucci's parents were both born there. As for lodgings, we have two rentals to recco: a splurge villa in Tropea plus a unique waterside property in Scilla's most picturesque Chianalea neighborhood. Details to follow. (pron. Scilla=SHE-elah and Chianalea=kee-anna-layah)

We flew from Toronto to Rome. There was a spectacular harvest moon that night in Toronto, one which reflected onto Lake Ontario. From Roma, we then flew down to Lamezia Terme then taxied to Tropea.

We'll show a bit more about the relaxing Capo Caticano spa later on.

"ITS CAPO VATICANO WITH A 'V' YOU MORON!!!" (Bianca the Chianalea Queen)

Swimmers may think that they've died...

and gone to heaven. What follows will be exclusively PEOPLE, both Calabrians and also Romans.

Stylish older man.

Stylish younger man.

Attractive younger couple in Tropea.

Similarly young Tropean accordion player.

Proud Roman guitarist.

Chianalea lady.

Pizzo APE driver.

Our wonderful Tropea landlady, Ginevra. On her recommendation, we had planned to check out her relative's similar rental at a Le Marche vineyard later that year (2024) but a combo of its renos plus our new knee issues caused us to pivot and travel elsewhere.

Tropea women.

Tropea teen.

Tropea toddler.

Scilla gelato shop owner (see vitamin 'G').

Pizzo teens.

A Roman woman visiting Tropea.

A Scilla produce vendor. There will a separate FOOD/DRINK section further on here in our TR.

Do Scilla shadows count as 'people'?

Well OK, if shadows count too.

A Tropean fisherman.

A school excursion visiting Chianalea. The Palazzo Scategna hotel where Stanley Tucci ate at the 'Il Principe' restaurant during his CNN show is seen behind. The boy in the middle with the dark cap and I had a nice chat while gingerly trying each other's mother tongues. Eventually, we gave him one of our Canadian flag pins. He later tracked us down in an alley to proudly show us that pin attached to his cap. Everyone smiles in the same language.

Shown here is the infamous Interpol secret agent 'Little Billy'. He cleverly disguises himself as a young boy. 'LB' frequents international harbors in order to track down illicit drug shipments. He always brings his shirtless dad along as part of his ruse. Beware.

Scilla is synonymous with swordfish hunting. We will show a dedicated section about that long-standing tradition later on here.

Ay raggazzi! More teens in Pizzo.

Friendly Francesco owns Casa Vela, a combo lodging/wine-bar and breakfast place located in the heart of Chianalea. He also owns the newest vacation rental in Pentedatillo (shown above). 'Pente' is a sort of Calabrian Matera south of Reggio Calabria that is just now opening up. It is an intriguing site located on the margin of the remote Aspromonte Park. We visited as a daytrip with Francesco's pal, the Reggio-based guide Lorenzo Labate. We will show more Pente plus more Lorenzo later.

Does whimsical art count as 'people'? (Pentedatillo)

Does more whimsical art count too? (Pizzo)

Pizzo renovator who insisted that I take his portrait.

Do mock Saracen pirate raiders from a Tropean fest count as people too?

Do dragonflies count as people?

Vatican guards.

Roman street poet.

Roman throng at popular 'Pizzarium' shop. Locals and tourists alike are attracted by the sheer variety of inventive flavors. One takes a number and waits. And waits. By design, we rented close by their smaller and FAR less crowded alternate bakery in Prati. But we wanted one experience of visiting their main shop shown above.

Gabriele was a 26 yr old DJ and Lazio soccer fan whose politics were hard-right. He was accidentally killed several years ago during an off-site soccer riot, when a traffic cop pulled his gun and unintentionally made Gabriele a martyr for the conservative cause.

Roman fountain scene near Piazza Navona in Pigna.

Mrs Z relaxes poolside at our fantastic Tropea rental. it was wrenching to leave.

Next: Tropea itself, our rental villa plus food.
Last edited by zebec; Aug 31st, 2025 at 02:02 PM.
#2
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
Brief add--on here due to odd technical difficulties. We gave a lift to this Canuck bum traveler and he never left us. He then insisted on sleeping with Mrs Z for the remainder of the trip. Shown above, he holds the pottery item that he tried to steal from the villa. Something about showing it to a barber to indicate his desired new hair style. *Ginevra had a joke tile that said in Italian: Guests are like fish. they begin to stink after three days.'
#6


Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,173
Likes: 0
Oh, Wow!!! I am so excited to see another one of Zebec's awesome trip reports. How long was this trip? So, it looks like Calabria would fit in nicely with a trip to Sicily?
I love all of your photos! You should get a job as a portrait photographer! All of your portraits are so fascinating. I could look at the Pizzo APE driver all day long. He is so easy on the eyes, as they say. And the Tropea ladies are so colorful, and I love the "shadow" people and the whimsical sculptures. Looking forward to more!
I love all of your photos! You should get a job as a portrait photographer! All of your portraits are so fascinating. I could look at the Pizzo APE driver all day long. He is so easy on the eyes, as they say. And the Tropea ladies are so colorful, and I love the "shadow" people and the whimsical sculptures. Looking forward to more!
Trending Topics
#8
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
So now we will show Tropea, including our wonderful villa rental. If ever you might want to splurge--this is the place. First off, Tropea itself.

Se avete fretta non fermateri a cosi shitload of fotos.

We departed towards the end of April. I wore green socks. Our trip was five weeks. The first week was a return to Rome, followed by two weeks each in Tropea then Scilla. We'd been to Rome many times. Some day, we will cobble together one dedicated Rome TR.

Tropea has several good beaches within its general city limits. They each are on the Tyrrhenian sea.

Seen here is one of those: Spiaggia Le Roccette.

This was the spot where we met and chatted with that above teen accordionist and his family.

Tropea has long had a significant demographic of German tourists visiting for these beaches.

Childrens classic.

The main drag in 'downtown' Tropea leans into some degree of touristy, but that does not matter. A great visit awaits all.

While we were there, Tropea had a festival with music, parades plus fireworks. More about this later.

The Il Convivo restaurant made a great nocturnal dining place. Inside, it had one of those transparent patches of floor through which one could see down into the ancient (and still used for vino storage) basement. We preferred eating meals there outside under a full moon...sigh. This is your southern Italy food fantasy folks. *note: Ginevra's family has a connection to the historic palazzo shown above.

Tropea had a weekly farmers market attached to a permanent market close by our rental villa, Great for self-caterers. I'll save its imagery for later on so that we may give shout-outs to the many friendly vendors there.

Good day sunshine!

Oh my, wait! This TR is now being hijacked by the famed Master Magician Aberto Santedicola. He hypnotizes the Zebecs while whispering: "Zeeeee-beks. We meet again across time and space ...gaze into my crystal ball and repeat after me... 'We will resume showing people photos immediately if not sooner'.....non non non signor y signora, put those pistols down. We will not be having a duel like last time. Sssh...si si si, that's a good boy. Good girl. Bono bono."

My wife and I put the weapons down. And then obeyed Aberto.

Famed belvedere Affacio Vallone. A justly popular vista lookout.

There will be more floral imagery and...

...shots from our rental. And food. And continued Tropea in the next installment.

Maybe we can create one of our Traditional Quizzes together? Any input for potential questions (lookin' at you ANUJ)?

Our Nikons say adiue for now.


Se avete fretta non fermateri a cosi shitload of fotos.

We departed towards the end of April. I wore green socks. Our trip was five weeks. The first week was a return to Rome, followed by two weeks each in Tropea then Scilla. We'd been to Rome many times. Some day, we will cobble together one dedicated Rome TR.

Tropea has several good beaches within its general city limits. They each are on the Tyrrhenian sea.

Seen here is one of those: Spiaggia Le Roccette.

This was the spot where we met and chatted with that above teen accordionist and his family.

Tropea has long had a significant demographic of German tourists visiting for these beaches.

Childrens classic.

The main drag in 'downtown' Tropea leans into some degree of touristy, but that does not matter. A great visit awaits all.

While we were there, Tropea had a festival with music, parades plus fireworks. More about this later.

The Il Convivo restaurant made a great nocturnal dining place. Inside, it had one of those transparent patches of floor through which one could see down into the ancient (and still used for vino storage) basement. We preferred eating meals there outside under a full moon...sigh. This is your southern Italy food fantasy folks. *note: Ginevra's family has a connection to the historic palazzo shown above.

Tropea had a weekly farmers market attached to a permanent market close by our rental villa, Great for self-caterers. I'll save its imagery for later on so that we may give shout-outs to the many friendly vendors there.

Good day sunshine!

Oh my, wait! This TR is now being hijacked by the famed Master Magician Aberto Santedicola. He hypnotizes the Zebecs while whispering: "Zeeeee-beks. We meet again across time and space ...gaze into my crystal ball and repeat after me... 'We will resume showing people photos immediately if not sooner'.....non non non signor y signora, put those pistols down. We will not be having a duel like last time. Sssh...si si si, that's a good boy. Good girl. Bono bono."

My wife and I put the weapons down. And then obeyed Aberto.

Famed belvedere Affacio Vallone. A justly popular vista lookout.

There will be more floral imagery and...

...shots from our rental. And food. And continued Tropea in the next installment.

Maybe we can create one of our Traditional Quizzes together? Any input for potential questions (lookin' at you ANUJ)?

Our Nikons say adiue for now.

#9
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
OK, so more Tropea including our rental plus FOOD.

La coppia Canadese e il mare. This entire trip was coastal, except for the obvious Rome part. In Tropea, beaches are almost always cliffside.

We will show a dedicated 'NAUTICA' maritime section further on.

'Diamo 'diamo 'diamo, lets go to the villa!

I've been itching to display our Tropea rental Villa Bragho. The online photos do not do it justice - so we will. It was uncheap and could fairly be described as a splurge. Mrs Z and I had to save our coins.

Its location is just on the immediate periphery just south of town, which is about a 14 minutes walk into town and even less to the parking lot which hosts both the permanent plus the weekly farmers market. Shown here is the tunnel-arch that is right beside that lot.

Villa Bragho features not only the main house but also a wonderful annex. Both are shown here. We pity the people in search of a Tropea splurge who overlook this villa. Satisfaction guaranteed.

The view from one of the bedrooms. Overhanging is one of the several MASSIVE old cedar trees, a fairly unusual sight in Calabria. More common is the variety of cacti plus pine, both of which proliferate throughout villa Bragho.

Although we missed swimming season by a mere couple weeks, it was always a pleasant place to do, well, far niente. Quiet, private and remote enough.

The property is expansive. As you can see, the pool is surrounded by lovely flora. This exotic tree had unique, orange-coloured blossoms. Anyone know what kind this is?

The train station was only 60 meters south and reached via a 7 minute detour. Nice proximity to have for daytrips.

A view through the annex door. Mima the maid plus a professional gardener are part of the deal. You may also receive a visit from the local boar. He and I once came face-to-face during one of my twilight pool cleanings. He'd come scrounging on the periphery behind the lemon trees and olives. It was a Calabrian stand-off: he did not want to get eaten and I did not want to be gored - I'm funny that way. He eventually slinked away. One morn, we saw his muddy hoofprints high up on that right wall.

Ginevra is one of those modest championship-level hosts. She will take care of you. One day, she arrived to gift us a whole bunch of various produce that her farmer neighbor had just yanked from the ground. Some of her Brit clients return annually.

She lives nearby, actually directly below that fantastic pool!

Ginevra's taste was evident throughout every inch of the property.

Vino? Si grazie. Ginevra immediately introduced us to her fave deli man in town (see FOOD section later)

The sense of design both within and without will help make this villa a vacation unto itself.

The mind delights.

Her interior decor will appeal to many.

As will the outdoors items, not one of which was less than beautiful.

Check out the year on this chest.

Shown here: one of the several patios, this one looking out to the sea.

This is that above view. Bravo villa Bragho!

The annex also had a sizable side patio (not shown), large enough to host an event.

Two couples could easily enjoy this villa together.

Clever hand-painted facade of one drawer.

Ginevra's faithful dog Stella. Stella's husband (il cano negro Leon) constantly bugged us to share our wine with him. After we refused, he would often launch into unprintable parolaccia. We can't repeat what he swore.

Molto sympa is this wonderful villa.

What follows is a continued assortment of the villa's decor. There no caption labels. Those uninterested in arty decor might skip this and check out the following installment, which contains more Tropea plus FOOD.















La coppia Canadese e il mare. This entire trip was coastal, except for the obvious Rome part. In Tropea, beaches are almost always cliffside.

We will show a dedicated 'NAUTICA' maritime section further on.

'Diamo 'diamo 'diamo, lets go to the villa!

I've been itching to display our Tropea rental Villa Bragho. The online photos do not do it justice - so we will. It was uncheap and could fairly be described as a splurge. Mrs Z and I had to save our coins.

Its location is just on the immediate periphery just south of town, which is about a 14 minutes walk into town and even less to the parking lot which hosts both the permanent plus the weekly farmers market. Shown here is the tunnel-arch that is right beside that lot.

Villa Bragho features not only the main house but also a wonderful annex. Both are shown here. We pity the people in search of a Tropea splurge who overlook this villa. Satisfaction guaranteed.

The view from one of the bedrooms. Overhanging is one of the several MASSIVE old cedar trees, a fairly unusual sight in Calabria. More common is the variety of cacti plus pine, both of which proliferate throughout villa Bragho.

Although we missed swimming season by a mere couple weeks, it was always a pleasant place to do, well, far niente. Quiet, private and remote enough.

The property is expansive. As you can see, the pool is surrounded by lovely flora. This exotic tree had unique, orange-coloured blossoms. Anyone know what kind this is?

The train station was only 60 meters south and reached via a 7 minute detour. Nice proximity to have for daytrips.

A view through the annex door. Mima the maid plus a professional gardener are part of the deal. You may also receive a visit from the local boar. He and I once came face-to-face during one of my twilight pool cleanings. He'd come scrounging on the periphery behind the lemon trees and olives. It was a Calabrian stand-off: he did not want to get eaten and I did not want to be gored - I'm funny that way. He eventually slinked away. One morn, we saw his muddy hoofprints high up on that right wall.

Ginevra is one of those modest championship-level hosts. She will take care of you. One day, she arrived to gift us a whole bunch of various produce that her farmer neighbor had just yanked from the ground. Some of her Brit clients return annually.

She lives nearby, actually directly below that fantastic pool!

Ginevra's taste was evident throughout every inch of the property.

Vino? Si grazie. Ginevra immediately introduced us to her fave deli man in town (see FOOD section later)

The sense of design both within and without will help make this villa a vacation unto itself.

The mind delights.

Her interior decor will appeal to many.

As will the outdoors items, not one of which was less than beautiful.

Check out the year on this chest.

Shown here: one of the several patios, this one looking out to the sea.

This is that above view. Bravo villa Bragho!

The annex also had a sizable side patio (not shown), large enough to host an event.

Two couples could easily enjoy this villa together.

Clever hand-painted facade of one drawer.

Ginevra's faithful dog Stella. Stella's husband (il cano negro Leon) constantly bugged us to share our wine with him. After we refused, he would often launch into unprintable parolaccia. We can't repeat what he swore.

Molto sympa is this wonderful villa.

What follows is a continued assortment of the villa's decor. There no caption labels. Those uninterested in arty decor might skip this and check out the following installment, which contains more Tropea plus FOOD.














#11
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
MANGIA (aka 'Don't worry about it- just eat')
On a recent trip we learned from a wise source: the more that you eat, the harder you are to kidnap.
Recommended book by Mary Palmer: 'Cucina di Calabria'.
Drinks: Bevi Calabrese:
Granita/grettaccecha (try fragola/strawbs or for supposed extra heath benefits, tamarind.
Arancia: the citrus juices of Calabria are excellent. The bergamot variety is featured in a very wide range of products. You've probably already tasted it in Earl Grey tea. But it is also used in soap, perfume, mayonnaise, gelato, liqueur, honey, cookies, granita, sodas and marmalade. The cedro species (frutta d'oro') is more subtle. Ask your Jewish friends about its usage as part of the annual 'Sukkot' ceremonies.

A variety of zagara or citrus blankets Calabria. Their lovely smell is called 'zagarona'. It joins honeysuckle and roses in keeping the air fragrant.

Market visits are an essential component to any visit to Calabria.

Pasta is predictably ubiquitous.

Having an outdoors, communal, home-cooked meal in Pentedatillo while being serenaded by wild birdsong, will definitely be a highlight of your visit. Libellula may drop by: he is the dragonfly pictured earlier. Ask for wonderful Rosella or better yet, book a tour with Reggio-based guide Lorenzo Labate (see later).

For it was he, Tonino! He is the undisputed grandfather of all things gelato in Tropea. Ladies beware: he is also an unapologetic flirt. Husbands basically become invisible.

Check out Tonino's inventive flavors. Mangiare tuna, squid, squash, meat, onion and olives. Others of his very unusual flavors await the adventurous traveler seeking Vitamin 'G'.

This was a friendly customer beside us at Tropea's 'U Limunaru' granite stand. See the flavors on offer on the sign below: gelso/mulberry was our fave.

We returned a few times. Btw, a nearby pizza place had an elaborate box with the most unexpected labelling. The info was all about the supposed secret health benefits of pizza: 'cortisolo' anti-stressers, Vitamin B, serotonin, immune-boosters, amino acids and cardio-vascular benefits!

This plucky teen recommended that we try the traditional Calabrian meat 'nduja' (en-doo-yah). Made in Calabria, both she and it.

Her boyfriend recommended that we get lost. Kidding. He too was very friendly as we all chatted.

Nduja can come wrapped as shown here. It was not as spicey as we'd feared. The nearby village Spilingo has an annual fest dedicated to the meat. It was OK, but we preferred cinghiale or boar.

Porchetta pork roast is more common up in Rome as seen in this version at the Trionfale Market.

The joke is: the rastaman on the left smokes a spliff/joint of cannabis; the pan-European in the middle smokes a cigarette; and the Calabrian 'teste dure' (stubborn hard-head) is munching some raw cipolla or red onions.

Red cipolla are sweeter than most onions.

Stanley Tucci devoted some time getting his shoes dirty in an onion field during his CNN Calabrian episode.

Produce for sale in Capo Vaticano.

Kumquats, no?

Show me someone who claims that garlic has no health benefits and I'll show you both the door. I included some in the recipe for what turned out to be the best meal that I've made for my wife Mrs Z in years: 'Pasta Tono di Lamarcia'. I created it for her at home in Tropea.

Tono and bergamot (do not mix them, just don't)

Fresh arancia OJ was a blessing here, soooo delicious.

These lads at Tropea's Shark Bay had a chat with us. When at first their ball had rolled onto my feet, I'd jokingly pretended to then steal it by plopping it into my shoulder bag without breaking stride. I later told them how our Toronto FC soccer team had two talented Italian players: Insigne and Benedeschi. *The beachside snack menu there, and the one we saw earlier at Parghelia's Lido di Nonno, was similar to those across European and North American beaches: pop and fast food.

Pizzo teen with soda.

Chefs value this premium rice.

Ginevra's taxi-driver pal, Valerio, drove us from Tropea down through the pretty Gulf of Eufemia to Scilla for 120 euros. He highly recommended the local seafood.

Such as...

And also...

Plus...

The 'surici' fish that we bought at the permanent market. Ginevra suggested that Mrs Z and I buy some, then fry them back in our lovely kitchen. That is a Calabrian fave specialty. Very bony. Strong smell.

This is a stone decor piece of that same surici fish. Not one bone and not one smell. *The name actually translates as 'mice', probably due to their small size.

Ginevra and the nearby fishmonger knew each other. As did the cheery greengrocer Osvaldo. Note that some Italian vendors take their long-time clients very seriously. It would've been an unthinkable faux-pas if she'd ever been seen to shop for the same items at a rival's stand. An Italian woman once told us: "The vendor thinks that they own you. But you will always get the best cut, the best quality as a result."

A seafood medley.

Sardines at the weekly market in Tropea. I also like eating anchovies (or alici). Do you?

This friendly man was a senior Military Commander. He was also the surprisingly-composed groom awaiting his lovely bride atop Tropea's famed sanctuary (more later). There was a gigantico wedding cake being transported on foot then up the sanctuary's ancient zig-zag path. He had a magnificent ceremonial saber: was it used to slice the cake? We wished him well on his marriage and later after being shooshed from the sanctuary with all the other tourists, spied his bride climbing the stairs. She was of course wearing a loooooong wedding dress with a traditional train dragging behind.

This lady and her sister were Italian tourists visiting for a week. We chatted with them more than once. She recommended the restaurant Pinturicchio (pintew-reek-eeyoe). We finally went there one night and loved it!

She was so right. The staff were excellent, including owner Salvatore. The food was probably the best in town. Try the fragolina or green beans. We relaxed and enjoyed the unique atmosphere there in the historic back-alley. Shown here is Pinturicchio's neighboring eatery. Some fragrant gelsomino/jasmine (not shown) filled the air.

A striking outdoors bar in the main center of Tropea.

Mrs Z's fave dessert. We found it on the menu of 'Glauco' restaurant in Scilla's Chianalea neighborhood. Great food, great views too. Unique decor as well. Glauco was a famous ancient Roman mythical figure.

The quintessential country wine in Pentedatillo.

More Italian alcohol. Neither Mrs Z nor myself can handle hard liquor from any nation. We both prefer vino.

Figs and bergamot honey. The latter has the bergamot flavor injected.

Modena and local oil.

Interesting citrus poster.

The range of citrus product was remarkable. We also saw 'Filetti di Cedro' citrus chocolate! *Note to travelling husbands: if say imaginarily you and your wife might have had a marked disagreement, then the purchase of the above chocolate as a consoling gift for her will suffice to make amends. 100% true

Notice the main ingredient in this cologne.

Our newest foodic discovery in Rome: the corn-based Venezuelan eatery 'El Maiz' in Rome's Prati district. Good stuff. And certainly the most high-tech ordering arrangement that we encountered on this trip! *molto grazie for this tip goes out to Lonely Planet's incomparable poster/mod on the Thorn Tree forum: 'Lucapal'.

Spices aplenty at Tropea market.

This cliche needs no intro.

Without which...

Italian and also French cheese: who can resist?
On a recent trip we learned from a wise source: the more that you eat, the harder you are to kidnap.
Recommended book by Mary Palmer: 'Cucina di Calabria'.
Drinks: Bevi Calabrese:
Granita/grettaccecha (try fragola/strawbs or for supposed extra heath benefits, tamarind.
Arancia: the citrus juices of Calabria are excellent. The bergamot variety is featured in a very wide range of products. You've probably already tasted it in Earl Grey tea. But it is also used in soap, perfume, mayonnaise, gelato, liqueur, honey, cookies, granita, sodas and marmalade. The cedro species (frutta d'oro') is more subtle. Ask your Jewish friends about its usage as part of the annual 'Sukkot' ceremonies.

A variety of zagara or citrus blankets Calabria. Their lovely smell is called 'zagarona'. It joins honeysuckle and roses in keeping the air fragrant.

Market visits are an essential component to any visit to Calabria.

Pasta is predictably ubiquitous.

Having an outdoors, communal, home-cooked meal in Pentedatillo while being serenaded by wild birdsong, will definitely be a highlight of your visit. Libellula may drop by: he is the dragonfly pictured earlier. Ask for wonderful Rosella or better yet, book a tour with Reggio-based guide Lorenzo Labate (see later).

For it was he, Tonino! He is the undisputed grandfather of all things gelato in Tropea. Ladies beware: he is also an unapologetic flirt. Husbands basically become invisible.

Check out Tonino's inventive flavors. Mangiare tuna, squid, squash, meat, onion and olives. Others of his very unusual flavors await the adventurous traveler seeking Vitamin 'G'.

This was a friendly customer beside us at Tropea's 'U Limunaru' granite stand. See the flavors on offer on the sign below: gelso/mulberry was our fave.

We returned a few times. Btw, a nearby pizza place had an elaborate box with the most unexpected labelling. The info was all about the supposed secret health benefits of pizza: 'cortisolo' anti-stressers, Vitamin B, serotonin, immune-boosters, amino acids and cardio-vascular benefits!

This plucky teen recommended that we try the traditional Calabrian meat 'nduja' (en-doo-yah). Made in Calabria, both she and it.

Her boyfriend recommended that we get lost. Kidding. He too was very friendly as we all chatted.

Nduja can come wrapped as shown here. It was not as spicey as we'd feared. The nearby village Spilingo has an annual fest dedicated to the meat. It was OK, but we preferred cinghiale or boar.

Porchetta pork roast is more common up in Rome as seen in this version at the Trionfale Market.

The joke is: the rastaman on the left smokes a spliff/joint of cannabis; the pan-European in the middle smokes a cigarette; and the Calabrian 'teste dure' (stubborn hard-head) is munching some raw cipolla or red onions.

Red cipolla are sweeter than most onions.

Stanley Tucci devoted some time getting his shoes dirty in an onion field during his CNN Calabrian episode.

Produce for sale in Capo Vaticano.

Kumquats, no?

Show me someone who claims that garlic has no health benefits and I'll show you both the door. I included some in the recipe for what turned out to be the best meal that I've made for my wife Mrs Z in years: 'Pasta Tono di Lamarcia'. I created it for her at home in Tropea.

Tono and bergamot (do not mix them, just don't)

Fresh arancia OJ was a blessing here, soooo delicious.

These lads at Tropea's Shark Bay had a chat with us. When at first their ball had rolled onto my feet, I'd jokingly pretended to then steal it by plopping it into my shoulder bag without breaking stride. I later told them how our Toronto FC soccer team had two talented Italian players: Insigne and Benedeschi. *The beachside snack menu there, and the one we saw earlier at Parghelia's Lido di Nonno, was similar to those across European and North American beaches: pop and fast food.

Pizzo teen with soda.

Chefs value this premium rice.

Ginevra's taxi-driver pal, Valerio, drove us from Tropea down through the pretty Gulf of Eufemia to Scilla for 120 euros. He highly recommended the local seafood.

Such as...

And also...

Plus...

The 'surici' fish that we bought at the permanent market. Ginevra suggested that Mrs Z and I buy some, then fry them back in our lovely kitchen. That is a Calabrian fave specialty. Very bony. Strong smell.

This is a stone decor piece of that same surici fish. Not one bone and not one smell. *The name actually translates as 'mice', probably due to their small size.

Ginevra and the nearby fishmonger knew each other. As did the cheery greengrocer Osvaldo. Note that some Italian vendors take their long-time clients very seriously. It would've been an unthinkable faux-pas if she'd ever been seen to shop for the same items at a rival's stand. An Italian woman once told us: "The vendor thinks that they own you. But you will always get the best cut, the best quality as a result."

A seafood medley.

Sardines at the weekly market in Tropea. I also like eating anchovies (or alici). Do you?

This friendly man was a senior Military Commander. He was also the surprisingly-composed groom awaiting his lovely bride atop Tropea's famed sanctuary (more later). There was a gigantico wedding cake being transported on foot then up the sanctuary's ancient zig-zag path. He had a magnificent ceremonial saber: was it used to slice the cake? We wished him well on his marriage and later after being shooshed from the sanctuary with all the other tourists, spied his bride climbing the stairs. She was of course wearing a loooooong wedding dress with a traditional train dragging behind.

This lady and her sister were Italian tourists visiting for a week. We chatted with them more than once. She recommended the restaurant Pinturicchio (pintew-reek-eeyoe). We finally went there one night and loved it!

She was so right. The staff were excellent, including owner Salvatore. The food was probably the best in town. Try the fragolina or green beans. We relaxed and enjoyed the unique atmosphere there in the historic back-alley. Shown here is Pinturicchio's neighboring eatery. Some fragrant gelsomino/jasmine (not shown) filled the air.

A striking outdoors bar in the main center of Tropea.

Mrs Z's fave dessert. We found it on the menu of 'Glauco' restaurant in Scilla's Chianalea neighborhood. Great food, great views too. Unique decor as well. Glauco was a famous ancient Roman mythical figure.

The quintessential country wine in Pentedatillo.

More Italian alcohol. Neither Mrs Z nor myself can handle hard liquor from any nation. We both prefer vino.

Figs and bergamot honey. The latter has the bergamot flavor injected.

Modena and local oil.

Interesting citrus poster.

The range of citrus product was remarkable. We also saw 'Filetti di Cedro' citrus chocolate! *Note to travelling husbands: if say imaginarily you and your wife might have had a marked disagreement, then the purchase of the above chocolate as a consoling gift for her will suffice to make amends. 100% true

Notice the main ingredient in this cologne.

Our newest foodic discovery in Rome: the corn-based Venezuelan eatery 'El Maiz' in Rome's Prati district. Good stuff. And certainly the most high-tech ordering arrangement that we encountered on this trip! *molto grazie for this tip goes out to Lonely Planet's incomparable poster/mod on the Thorn Tree forum: 'Lucapal'.

Spices aplenty at Tropea market.

This cliche needs no intro.

Without which...

Italian and also French cheese: who can resist?
Last edited by zebec; Sep 2nd, 2025 at 06:18 PM.
#13
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Sounds like another fun and insightful report in the making! Sorry to hear about the YouTube hiccup, but honestly your photos and storytelling always carry the rhythm on their own. Really looking forward to seeing your take on Tropea and Capo Vaticano (two spots on my own wish list), and especially curious about Pentedatillo since it’s not a place that comes up often in trip reports. Bring on the humor, the tips, and of course the Mrs. Z perspective—always a highlight.
#16


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
Likes: 0
Bravissimo!!!!
Do I spy Senise peppers?
Setting aside to read closely and slowly later tonight....
Speaking of citrus, I know you know all this but it was surprising to me when I first read of the pilgrimage made by the rabbis every year..who would have thunk it?? You probably already discussed this but I was in such a hurry to browse through that I'm sure I missed it...this is my reading for tonight!!!!!
https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/calabria-etrog-for-sukkot
Do I spy Senise peppers?
Setting aside to read closely and slowly later tonight....
Speaking of citrus, I know you know all this but it was surprising to me when I first read of the pilgrimage made by the rabbis every year..who would have thunk it?? You probably already discussed this but I was in such a hurry to browse through that I'm sure I missed it...this is my reading for tonight!!!!!
https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/calabria-etrog-for-sukkot
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Sep 3rd, 2025 at 11:48 AM.
#17
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0

Tropea's iconic motif symbol, Santuario Santa Maria dell'Isola, sits on its own promontory above beaches. It stands out from the mainland

Getting to its base by APE (preferably red) is great fun, as depicted in this painting.

The zig-zag path takes one up to a peaceful place. 'Sanctuary' is an apt word. One goes for the views plus the modest garden out back. Modest it may be, but the peaceful vibe there is very tangible and very welcome. As you know, we were there during spring. But one imagines that during the crowded, high summer season this garden is a veritable escape.

THE iconic view from the Sanctuary as shown painted on an artist's tiles.

The real thing. The best-of-all Vallone belvedere can be seen upper right. It is the peach-coloured bit with an arch.

Arch view from inside tiny onsite chapel out to main center of Tropea. Nearby sign: THE CHRISTIAN DRESSES PROPERLY BEFORE ENTERING HERE. NO __________(long list of unacceptable attire).

Floral wonders await atop. Of course, the various plants are mostly Mediterranean.

There is a central row of gnarly ancient olive trees.

Bottle-brush? Am I right?

Sitting on a bench in this garden, reading a book or listening to music or just breathing is a very good idea. See 'far niente'.

Who can resist the charms of a small, out-of-the-way European garden? Italy is a contender for champion in that regard.

Down below this bush were some snazzy boats and yachts.

Older travelers can relate to this seasoned tree, yeah?

Alternate angle. The other side shows something different. During sunsets here, the done thing is to view volcanic Stromboli, that nearby Aeolian island so beloved of hikers.

Nocturne. (eh, wrong country, senor Zebec--editors)

So now, let's descend that old zig-zag path and head back to the core of Tropea.

The mythical beast 'Fodoria' (Phoenician 'smug'). During ancient times long ago, this chimeric hybrid (half wild dog/half political commentator) was known for posting snide and snarky comments in the basement parts of travel forums, many of which were aimed at innocent denizens of the remote isle Britannica. Known for its tendency to encourage 'brigading', the Fodoria needed reminders to refrain from adopting attitudes that made them look small. Sandbox at recess small.

A downtown statue. What is its meaning? Anybody care to guess?

Old Calabria is evident throughout central Tropea.

Persistent artists and shutterbugs will find interesting things around town.

Some heritage buildings had been re-imagined as restaurants. Tropea had quite a few. Cynics have opined online that Tropea's restaurants have nose-dived in terms of quality due to the recent influx of tourists. I dunno. I mean, what yardstick are they using to measure that claim objectively? Maybe just ignore the critics and instead focus on fun. Mangia!

Largo Frezza is right beside the above popular Vallone belvedere, so visitors may easily do a two-fer in this area. This evocative corner should be high on your list.

Tropea got style.

Few countries do 'old meets new' design as well as Itlay.

Just beside the granite stand.

The 'Lorenzo' deli that Ginevra favors. As self-caterers, we went several times. Ottimo sandwiches! Franco and I shared an admiration for the Brit classic rock trio ELP. One time, he played their timeless hit 'Lucky Man' as we entered. That thoughtfulness brought tears to my eyes. Same thing had once happened when Rick Steves' favored French taxi driver Phillipe had 'The Lamb' by Genesis already playing as Mrs Z and I hopped into his vehicle on the second morn of back-to-back rural tours.

This woman near the Viletta del Cannone vista laughed after we revealed that we'd paid a visit to Tonino's creative gelato shop. "That's for tourists! We all go instead to Mimmo for gelato." My hungry better-half and I later discovered that her revelation was 100% 'vero'.

The Biblioteque/post office. Mimmo gelato is kitty corner. An essential visit, that old-school 'local' gelateria--trust us.

Same colours as above. Sort of.

Chitarrista and band-leader Daniele Paone tunes his Strat during soundcheck in preparation of his act's performance at Tropea's 'Festa Tre Croci'.

She was the vibrant vocalist for Daniele's band.

Their drummer also allowed me to take this snap of his kit's high-hat cymbals. *It may just be the long-sought-after image that I need for the cover of my upcoming vanity-press musical memoir.

Festival drummer boy--I always see a little bit of my childhood self in them.

That Fest parade needed these teen float pushers. The papier-machier pirate seen earlier here, plus a giant dancing camel were called 'camiuzzi i focu'.

Once we spoke a little Italian, the weekly market vendors warmed to us. And vice-versa. "Eh, sono Canadese. Di Toronto. Mi chiamo..."

This dignified lady paid me the ultimate compliment: "I'm about to retire from a university in Rome. We have a foreign Prof who has taught there for 25 years and your Italian is way better than his!" Learning some basic language, getting somewhat informed and showing some respect will always pay off BIG TIME for the traveler, no matter what country they are visiting.

Perhaps the friendliest vendor at the weekly market. She and her husband answered our million food questions with all the patience in Italy. Their van sold excellent poultry plus great cheeses.

This farmer worked a van-cum-booth with his aged grandfather. The octogenarian anziana teared up to see his grandson having his photographic portrait done. We got the sense that his remaining days at the market were few in number.

We bought many items from this family. They come there to the weekly market from their Monteleone mountain home (between Nicotera and Monteporo). For Mrs Z and I, their olives plus their *ricotta alone were worth the trip to the market.

Giuseppe Lombardo and wife. Another example of folks approaching us to insist that we take their photo. They were the florist couple at the weekly market. We bought a bouquet.

Remember the middle fellow from earlier? Here he is again with his friendly waitstaff colleagues at the Papillon restaurant. *This was yet-another example of folks demanding that I take their pictures.

The so-called 'golden hour' here rewards the patient.

Next: daytrips to Pizzo and Capo Vaticano, plus our Traditional Quiz.
Last edited by zebec; Sep 3rd, 2025 at 04:02 PM.
#18


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,275
Likes: 0
Pizzo--the gelato? They made a big deal about this delectable treat in Maratea, near the border....but I will take the gelso over the Red Bull flavor!!!
This report has put the region atop my long list. And your closeups of the people! I've seen only a tiny slice, further north and into the Albanese areas.....looks like time is running out and we must use your report as a guide for a return.
Can a person with limited mobility make it to the sea from the town of Tropea and even more important, water temperatures for swimming??? Jellyfish?
I want to sign up for the quiz although my sole lifetime prize was a B&W tv from a raffle at Mamma Leone's on an ORT (Jewish charity organization inn the 1970s)when Nana took me on bus trip from the Rockaways (NY) : LUNCH AND A MATINEE..and a FREE tv!!!!
Loving the text as much as the photos....you are a charm, not to mention your musical tastes!
Andiamo!
This report has put the region atop my long list. And your closeups of the people! I've seen only a tiny slice, further north and into the Albanese areas.....looks like time is running out and we must use your report as a guide for a return.
Can a person with limited mobility make it to the sea from the town of Tropea and even more important, water temperatures for swimming??? Jellyfish?
I want to sign up for the quiz although my sole lifetime prize was a B&W tv from a raffle at Mamma Leone's on an ORT (Jewish charity organization inn the 1970s)when Nana took me on bus trip from the Rockaways (NY) : LUNCH AND A MATINEE..and a FREE tv!!!!
Loving the text as much as the photos....you are a charm, not to mention your musical tastes!
Andiamo!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Sep 3rd, 2025 at 04:25 PM.
#19
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,331
Likes: 8
Fabulous zebec. I came in for a quick browse and stayed for the whole meal. Portraits, closeups, big scenes, and ... the light!
It may be possible to eat too much garlic, but there's no denying it's health benefits.
Yes, I think bottle-brush. That's what we called them in Costa Rica and other places. No idea where they originated.
Thanks for posting!
It may be possible to eat too much garlic, but there's no denying it's health benefits.
Yes, I think bottle-brush. That's what we called them in Costa Rica and other places. No idea where they originated.
Thanks for posting!
#20
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,653
Likes: 0
A trio of movies about Calabria, all done by the same director:
Mediteranea, A Ciambra and A Chiara. We've seen the first two. In the middle case, the starring Romani family shown at home and elsewhere were actual residents of the town Gioia Tauro.
Also, there is a TV mini-series titled Zero Zero Zero.
*scrb11-you are our resident film buff. Can you comment on any of these?
Mediteranea, A Ciambra and A Chiara. We've seen the first two. In the middle case, the starring Romani family shown at home and elsewhere were actual residents of the town Gioia Tauro.
Also, there is a TV mini-series titled Zero Zero Zero.
*scrb11-you are our resident film buff. Can you comment on any of these?
Last edited by zebec; Sep 6th, 2025 at 10:50 PM.



