Sardinia in May - hiking and beaches
Jul 20th, 2025 | 10:47 AM
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Sardinia in May - hiking and beaches
Sardinia in May 2025 Trip Report
We spent 23 nights in Sardegna in May 2025.
This was after a previous similar trip in May 2024. We returned to some favourite places and completed our exploration of the area. Our objectives were to relax and enjoy the spectacular flowers and nature of Sardinia in late Spring, spend some time on the beach to get some sun because where we live in the mountains we don’t get much chance, do some light hiking for exercise and to enjoy the beauty of nature.
We took the ferry – Grimaldi lines, from Livorno at 10 o’clock in the morning on a Tuesday because we prefer to travel by day. The ferry arrived a little late so we weren’t on the way to Alghero until 7.30pm. We arrived at 9pm and stayed in an apartment I’d found on Booking.com and Airbnb but booked directly once I’d found a telephone number on subito.it. No surprises. Reviews had been excellent on both and when I contacted the lady on Whatsapp she’d replied immediately with a good price, fast and efficient. It’s in a new building in the centre of Alghero.
Day 1 Wednesday Alghero – we wandered around Alghero and the historical centre, went to the market and the supermarket, walked along the seafront in the afternoon and went back to the Bastioni in the evening. Alghero is unusual for Sardinia in the sense it’s a pleasant town with a historic centre right on the sea with a nice promenade. It’s also convenient for the airport and easy to get around without renting a car.
Day 2 Thursday Bosa. The road trip from Alghero to Bosa is well-kmμnown for a good reason – the views are splendid and the road is quiet. It makes an excellent day trip for the panoramic road to get there, also the people are friendly and Bosa is a very pleasant town on the river with a castle and brightly painted houses.
Day 3 Friday Alghero and hike Fertilia – Le Bombarde. We strolled around Alghero in the morning and in the afternoon drove to Capo Punta Negra, parked and hiked through the Mediterranean vegetation to Le Bombarde spiaggia. An easy walk.
Trip Report Alghero
Day 4 Saturday We drove from Alghero to Santa Teresa Gallura stopping at the Saturday market in Valledoria for vegetables and Isola Rossa for a picnic and a coffee. It was our second recent visit to Capo Testa after last May and we enjoyed it, especially the routine of a hike in the morning, beach late afternoon and then the after-dinner stroll to see the sunset at Capo Testa.
Day 5 Sunday We explored Capo Testa – the area below the lighthouse in the morning and Valle della Luna in the afternoon
Day 6 Monday We repeated the Rena Maiore – Cala Pischina hike that we did last year
Day 7 Tuesday Costa Paradiso hike towards Li Tinnari beach – full day. This was an interesting hike, but much more demanding and perhaps no nicer than some of the others. Not quite sure why it’s so popular
Day 8 Wednesday Sentiero Natura between Santa Teresa and Capo Testa. It was a gloomy morning so we decided on a short walk near to our base. In the afternoon the sun came out so we went to Rena Ponente beach and I swam. The water didn’t feel cold (officially about 18.2° but probably warmer in
Day 9 Thursday Market in Santa Teresa and Rena Ponente again in the afternoon
Day 10 Friday Naracu Nieddu and Vignola hike in the morning. This was our favourite hike last year. This time we went a little further, until we had to cross the river, after Vignola itself. In the afternoon Rena di Ponente was windy so we hung around Spiaggia delle Colonne
Day 11 Saturday Cala Pischina to Monti Russi hike in the morning. A more demanding hike because of the untamed and scratchy undergrowth. Wild places. In the afternoon Rena di Ponente beach but on the rocks because of the wind.
Day 12 Sunday We had a quiet walk as far as Cala Francese of Capo Testa in the morning and sat in the sun for a while until the first people started to arrive. Zia Culumbu beach in the afternoon, we actually sat down for the first time!
Trip Report Santa Teresa Gallura 2025
On Day 13 Monday we packed up and drove to Budoni on the ast coast of Sardinia to the south of Olbia, another popular arrival airport. We had planned to stop in Palau but an unexpected traffic jam put us off and we stopped at the Spazio Conad supermarket in Olbia instead. After settling in to our very nice mini-villa with a view over the countryside and a glimpse of the sea we explored Spiaggia di Budoni, which was windy and seaweedy.
Day 14 Tuesday was a rest day, we enjoyed the villetta and the view, did some food shopping, relaxed at Porto Ainu beach where I swam
Day 15 On Wednesday we spent most of the day at Capo Coda Cavallo. There were a few people but it wasn’t too busy. It gets the wind from the north but the waves calmed down as the day progressed. Late afternoon we parked near Li Impostu beach and walked along there until the far end of Cala Brandinchi where I swam, although the water is very shallow for quite a long way out. Parking was paid if you wanted to park in the car park between Cala Brandinchi and Li Impostu, still free at Coda Cavallo and at the south end of Li Impostu. These three beaches are amongst the most beauitufl in Sardinia – and Sardinia had a lot of beautiful beaches!
Day 16 Thursday we hiked from Berchida to Oasi di Biderosa along the beach. The environment here is spectacular: wild and beautiful beaches, rocky landscape and Mediterranean vegetation behind, very few people – splendid.
Day 17 On Friday we walked around San Teodoro, a modern town purpose built to cater to tourists and residents but pleasant and without highrise buildings, and did some shopping at the market, in the afternoon we walked along Budoni beach from Pineta Sant’Anna to Parco del Sole Pineta
Day 18 On Saturday we went to Olbia: the market, waterfront and centre. For most people Olbia is just a point of arrival but it deserves at least half a day. There are a few nice pedestrian streets with cafθs, a recently renovated waterfront, a couple of old churches.
Day 19 Sunday Since the beaches were busier than usual we did a short hike along the coast from Pineta Sant’Anna to Porto Ainu and Baia Sant’Anna. In the afternoon we relaxed back at base and then went for a walk in the Pineta
Day 20 Monday We hiked along coast from Capo Comino (Spiaggia Moletto) towards Berchida stopping at Cala Tamerici. If I’d known the path was so easy to walk along I’d have taken a picnic and got as far as Berchida. In the afternoon the sun was fierce and it was hot – nearly 30° so we retreated back to the villetta.
Day 21 Tuesday We went back to Capo Coda Cavallo but it was windy so we hiked along to the end of the promontory, and then stopped in Cala Suaraccia for a while. In the afternoon we went back to Porto Ainu
Day 22 Wednesday A hot and not very successful hike along the coast north of Porto Ottoliu and a final swim at Porto Ainu.
Trip Report Budoni May 2025
Conclusion
This was our second trip to similar places in Sardinia in May 2025 after our May 2024 visit. The areas we visited are beautiful for nature and for the spring flowers, which were the main reasons for our visit. In both areas it’s possible to hike/walk along the coast with varying degrees of success. Towards the end of May it was getting too hot for that, for us.
The weather was always sunny and invariably windy, temperatures generally low or mid-20s except for a couple of hot days the last week. Beach clubs were open or starting to open and there were a few people about but not many.
Parking was still free in most places (the private car park between Cala Brandinchi and Li Impostu was a notable exception).
As for our previous experiences in Sardinia, it’s difficult to find local fresh fish. I’m sorry to say that it’s easier and cheaper to buy fresh sardines at my local market in the mountains than in Sardinia in May outside the main cities. Local beef, pork and sheep meat is available, and you can also find ready cooked spit roasted pig at some butcher’s and supermarkets (30 euros per kilo) if you book. The cheese, especially sheep and goat, is excellent as is the ricotta, especially directly from producers. This time, we didn’t eat out. My holidays are many and necessarily low budget and I didn’t fancy spending 19 euros for linguine allo scoglio, for example. I have no doubt it’s possible to eat excellent food at a restaurant in Sardinia, but not everywhere, and on the coast maybe not at a price I’m prepared to pay. If eating out is an important part of your holiday, do your research carefully.
Sardinia attracts Italians for summer beach and sea and sun holidays and it lives up to expectations on that. The sea is as transparent and crystal clear as you hoped in many places. Be prepared for some seaweed in places, it’s inevitable. In April and May, hiking along the coast is also a good activity, at least in some areas. In some places you’ll need long trousers, not shorts, if you don’t want to get scratched. Of the places we visited this trip, Alghero was the nicest town because there are pleasant places to stroll, around the old town and along the promenade. For nature and flowers and seascapes in April and May Sardinia is spectacular!
We spent 23 nights in Sardegna in May 2025.
This was after a previous similar trip in May 2024. We returned to some favourite places and completed our exploration of the area. Our objectives were to relax and enjoy the spectacular flowers and nature of Sardinia in late Spring, spend some time on the beach to get some sun because where we live in the mountains we don’t get much chance, do some light hiking for exercise and to enjoy the beauty of nature.
We took the ferry – Grimaldi lines, from Livorno at 10 o’clock in the morning on a Tuesday because we prefer to travel by day. The ferry arrived a little late so we weren’t on the way to Alghero until 7.30pm. We arrived at 9pm and stayed in an apartment I’d found on Booking.com and Airbnb but booked directly once I’d found a telephone number on subito.it. No surprises. Reviews had been excellent on both and when I contacted the lady on Whatsapp she’d replied immediately with a good price, fast and efficient. It’s in a new building in the centre of Alghero.
Day 1 Wednesday Alghero – we wandered around Alghero and the historical centre, went to the market and the supermarket, walked along the seafront in the afternoon and went back to the Bastioni in the evening. Alghero is unusual for Sardinia in the sense it’s a pleasant town with a historic centre right on the sea with a nice promenade. It’s also convenient for the airport and easy to get around without renting a car.
Day 2 Thursday Bosa. The road trip from Alghero to Bosa is well-kmμnown for a good reason – the views are splendid and the road is quiet. It makes an excellent day trip for the panoramic road to get there, also the people are friendly and Bosa is a very pleasant town on the river with a castle and brightly painted houses.
Day 3 Friday Alghero and hike Fertilia – Le Bombarde. We strolled around Alghero in the morning and in the afternoon drove to Capo Punta Negra, parked and hiked through the Mediterranean vegetation to Le Bombarde spiaggia. An easy walk.
Trip Report Alghero
Day 4 Saturday We drove from Alghero to Santa Teresa Gallura stopping at the Saturday market in Valledoria for vegetables and Isola Rossa for a picnic and a coffee. It was our second recent visit to Capo Testa after last May and we enjoyed it, especially the routine of a hike in the morning, beach late afternoon and then the after-dinner stroll to see the sunset at Capo Testa.
Day 5 Sunday We explored Capo Testa – the area below the lighthouse in the morning and Valle della Luna in the afternoon
Day 6 Monday We repeated the Rena Maiore – Cala Pischina hike that we did last year
Day 7 Tuesday Costa Paradiso hike towards Li Tinnari beach – full day. This was an interesting hike, but much more demanding and perhaps no nicer than some of the others. Not quite sure why it’s so popular
Day 8 Wednesday Sentiero Natura between Santa Teresa and Capo Testa. It was a gloomy morning so we decided on a short walk near to our base. In the afternoon the sun came out so we went to Rena Ponente beach and I swam. The water didn’t feel cold (officially about 18.2° but probably warmer in
Day 9 Thursday Market in Santa Teresa and Rena Ponente again in the afternoon
Day 10 Friday Naracu Nieddu and Vignola hike in the morning. This was our favourite hike last year. This time we went a little further, until we had to cross the river, after Vignola itself. In the afternoon Rena di Ponente was windy so we hung around Spiaggia delle Colonne
Day 11 Saturday Cala Pischina to Monti Russi hike in the morning. A more demanding hike because of the untamed and scratchy undergrowth. Wild places. In the afternoon Rena di Ponente beach but on the rocks because of the wind.
Day 12 Sunday We had a quiet walk as far as Cala Francese of Capo Testa in the morning and sat in the sun for a while until the first people started to arrive. Zia Culumbu beach in the afternoon, we actually sat down for the first time!
Trip Report Santa Teresa Gallura 2025
On Day 13 Monday we packed up and drove to Budoni on the ast coast of Sardinia to the south of Olbia, another popular arrival airport. We had planned to stop in Palau but an unexpected traffic jam put us off and we stopped at the Spazio Conad supermarket in Olbia instead. After settling in to our very nice mini-villa with a view over the countryside and a glimpse of the sea we explored Spiaggia di Budoni, which was windy and seaweedy.
Day 14 Tuesday was a rest day, we enjoyed the villetta and the view, did some food shopping, relaxed at Porto Ainu beach where I swam
Day 15 On Wednesday we spent most of the day at Capo Coda Cavallo. There were a few people but it wasn’t too busy. It gets the wind from the north but the waves calmed down as the day progressed. Late afternoon we parked near Li Impostu beach and walked along there until the far end of Cala Brandinchi where I swam, although the water is very shallow for quite a long way out. Parking was paid if you wanted to park in the car park between Cala Brandinchi and Li Impostu, still free at Coda Cavallo and at the south end of Li Impostu. These three beaches are amongst the most beauitufl in Sardinia – and Sardinia had a lot of beautiful beaches!
Day 16 Thursday we hiked from Berchida to Oasi di Biderosa along the beach. The environment here is spectacular: wild and beautiful beaches, rocky landscape and Mediterranean vegetation behind, very few people – splendid.
Day 17 On Friday we walked around San Teodoro, a modern town purpose built to cater to tourists and residents but pleasant and without highrise buildings, and did some shopping at the market, in the afternoon we walked along Budoni beach from Pineta Sant’Anna to Parco del Sole Pineta
Day 18 On Saturday we went to Olbia: the market, waterfront and centre. For most people Olbia is just a point of arrival but it deserves at least half a day. There are a few nice pedestrian streets with cafθs, a recently renovated waterfront, a couple of old churches.
Day 19 Sunday Since the beaches were busier than usual we did a short hike along the coast from Pineta Sant’Anna to Porto Ainu and Baia Sant’Anna. In the afternoon we relaxed back at base and then went for a walk in the Pineta
Day 20 Monday We hiked along coast from Capo Comino (Spiaggia Moletto) towards Berchida stopping at Cala Tamerici. If I’d known the path was so easy to walk along I’d have taken a picnic and got as far as Berchida. In the afternoon the sun was fierce and it was hot – nearly 30° so we retreated back to the villetta.
Day 21 Tuesday We went back to Capo Coda Cavallo but it was windy so we hiked along to the end of the promontory, and then stopped in Cala Suaraccia for a while. In the afternoon we went back to Porto Ainu
Day 22 Wednesday A hot and not very successful hike along the coast north of Porto Ottoliu and a final swim at Porto Ainu.
Trip Report Budoni May 2025
Conclusion
This was our second trip to similar places in Sardinia in May 2025 after our May 2024 visit. The areas we visited are beautiful for nature and for the spring flowers, which were the main reasons for our visit. In both areas it’s possible to hike/walk along the coast with varying degrees of success. Towards the end of May it was getting too hot for that, for us.
The weather was always sunny and invariably windy, temperatures generally low or mid-20s except for a couple of hot days the last week. Beach clubs were open or starting to open and there were a few people about but not many.
Parking was still free in most places (the private car park between Cala Brandinchi and Li Impostu was a notable exception).
As for our previous experiences in Sardinia, it’s difficult to find local fresh fish. I’m sorry to say that it’s easier and cheaper to buy fresh sardines at my local market in the mountains than in Sardinia in May outside the main cities. Local beef, pork and sheep meat is available, and you can also find ready cooked spit roasted pig at some butcher’s and supermarkets (30 euros per kilo) if you book. The cheese, especially sheep and goat, is excellent as is the ricotta, especially directly from producers. This time, we didn’t eat out. My holidays are many and necessarily low budget and I didn’t fancy spending 19 euros for linguine allo scoglio, for example. I have no doubt it’s possible to eat excellent food at a restaurant in Sardinia, but not everywhere, and on the coast maybe not at a price I’m prepared to pay. If eating out is an important part of your holiday, do your research carefully.
Sardinia attracts Italians for summer beach and sea and sun holidays and it lives up to expectations on that. The sea is as transparent and crystal clear as you hoped in many places. Be prepared for some seaweed in places, it’s inevitable. In April and May, hiking along the coast is also a good activity, at least in some areas. In some places you’ll need long trousers, not shorts, if you don’t want to get scratched. Of the places we visited this trip, Alghero was the nicest town because there are pleasant places to stroll, around the old town and along the promenade. For nature and flowers and seascapes in April and May Sardinia is spectacular!
Last edited by just_tina; Jul 20th, 2025 at 10:57 AM.
Jul 20th, 2025 | 12:30 PM
#2
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 41
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Thank you for sharing your experience. I love the logistics you mentioned and they certainly helps my trip planning. I enjoyed your blogs too - Puglia will be our next Italy destination, Sardinia next.
I too enjoy eating in while traveling in Europe. I enjoy exploring supermarkets and cook with the local products. We had good seafood finds in Conad Montepulciano!
I too enjoy eating in while traveling in Europe. I enjoy exploring supermarkets and cook with the local products. We had good seafood finds in Conad Montepulciano!
Jul 21st, 2025 | 03:47 AM
#6
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,848
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We spent a few days in southern Sardinia in May 2016, near Cagliari. Mainly because I wanted to visit the neolithic site of Barumini, which I absolutely loved. We always said wed go back for a longer trip, but somehow it never happened. Your TR and pictures pique my interest again, thanks!
Jul 21st, 2025 | 11:10 AM
#7
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Joined: Apr 2023
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Travelkam, yes we love going to markets and supermarkets too, it's a bit off- topic but we love Mercadona supermarket (everywhere) in Spain! You will love Puglia for food. I think the best (savoury) food in Italy is in Puglia - if I have to include sweet things then it would be Sicily. In Puglia there are the usual supermarkets but there's still the custom to buy food at the weekly markets or from small shops. Everything tastes better there ... and isn't expensive.
Anuj, yes Sardinia and Sicily are totally different. There are nice beaches and sea in Sicily too, but in Sardinia they are everywhere. especially in the spring before it gets too hot and dry the landscape is spectacular. I always prefer Sardinia in the spring for that reason, whereas in autumn I'd go to Sicily for the history and culture and food.
Mjs, yes, people expect Sardinia cuisine to be based on fish because Sardinia is an island but historically Sardinia people settled far from the coast because of the risks of invaders and pirates - another reason why tourists are disappointed not to find an 'interesting historical town near the sea' which, with the exception of Alghero, Cagliari and a handful of other places, doesn't exist. This article explains it well, it's in Italian, but Google will translate: https://www.itenovas.com/in-tavola/4...na-tavola.html
Geetika, yes southern Sardinia is beautiful too. Cagliari is a fine city, and beaches like Chia, Villasimius and Porto Pino are lovely, as well as neolithic sites. And the archeological area of Nora on the sea is magic.
Anuj, yes Sardinia and Sicily are totally different. There are nice beaches and sea in Sicily too, but in Sardinia they are everywhere. especially in the spring before it gets too hot and dry the landscape is spectacular. I always prefer Sardinia in the spring for that reason, whereas in autumn I'd go to Sicily for the history and culture and food.
Mjs, yes, people expect Sardinia cuisine to be based on fish because Sardinia is an island but historically Sardinia people settled far from the coast because of the risks of invaders and pirates - another reason why tourists are disappointed not to find an 'interesting historical town near the sea' which, with the exception of Alghero, Cagliari and a handful of other places, doesn't exist. This article explains it well, it's in Italian, but Google will translate: https://www.itenovas.com/in-tavola/4...na-tavola.html
Geetika, yes southern Sardinia is beautiful too. Cagliari is a fine city, and beaches like Chia, Villasimius and Porto Pino are lovely, as well as neolithic sites. And the archeological area of Nora on the sea is magic.
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Jul 22nd, 2025 | 08:31 AM
#8
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 456
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Just_Tina, Thanks so much for this helpful and interesting, TR (along with/the great photos). Sardinia is on my radar and your report helps me to think about a hoped for future trip. The comparisons you made with Sicily and Puglia (I've traveled in both areas) are really useful to me.
