Naples, Caserta, Amalfi and Procida: Oct 2022 Trip Report
#1
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Joined: May 2005
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Naples, Caserta, Amalfi and Procida: Oct 2022 Trip Report
Just back from 6 nights of Naples with 12 people. Here is the run down:
Journey: We used the train interrail pass from Lucerne - Naples - Lucerne. It's a long trip but we booked first class from Milan- Naples - Milan. The whole trip cost SFr. 280.
Hotel: Smart Hotel located on a pier at the Port and is often between cruise ships. It's not a cheap hotel but the location is central, QUIET, safe, clean and easy to get to the ferries and metro. There are also good restaurants nearby. https://tinyurl.com/smart-hotel
Get patio rooms with views that are farther away from the reception. If you are travelling in a group, get patio rooms next to each other. Breakfasts are fine but it gets a bit loud. We had problems with our safe but the reception was quick in sending someone to help us. Quick as in within two minutes.
Restaurants: We only went to three restaurants in the Port area due to repeat visits:
1) La Lazzara. This is excellent and reasonable but busy so book ahead. We went twice.) TRATTORIA PIZZERIA LA LAZZARA, Naples - Porto - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Order Online Food Delivery - Tripadvisor
2) Vineca: We stumbled upon this one. It's close to the Port metro entrance but is quiet, friendly, reasonable and delicious. We went here three times. Say hi to Rosa from the Swiss group. VINECO CUCINA: CULTURA E PASSIONE, Naples - Porto - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Reservations - Tripadvisor
3) Trattoria Medina (on Medina Street). This was the most touristic restaurant filled with adrenelin-filled male staff. The food was fine but it was our least favourite. TRATTORIA MEDINA, Naples - Via Medina 32, Porto - Restaurant Reviews & Phone Number - Tripadvisor
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival at Garibaldi Central Station, check in at hotel and dinner. We discovered La Lazzara that night and fell in love with its food and service.
Day 2: Six hour city tour with Saint Elmo's views being the highlights. Dinner at Lazzara again.
Day 3: Amalfi Coast with a rented bus and tour guide. We loved our brief visit in Sorrent and the views of Positano are simply stunning. We stopped in Amalfi and fought the crowds, saw the church (worth it) and then took a ferry to Salerno. Next time, I would time a ferry from Positano to Amalfi and then get on the bus again. Dinner at Vineco
Day 3: Heracleum and Vesuv: Our tour guide took us through Heracleum and then we walked up to Vesuv. Vesuv requires advanced booking but because our tour guide had connections, we were able to book on that day. Heracleum was interesting thanks to our tour guide and Vesuv is great for the views and hike. Dinner at Medina.
Day 4: Caserta Palace, Aquaduct and then the highlight for me: Sant Agata di Goti: We took the train to Caserta to see the Palace inspired by Versailles but never really lived in. Lots of marmor and granite and the gardens are stunning. After another visit of a church on a hill and an aquaduct, we visited the most charming, authentic, medievial village I've ever seen in Italy: Sant Agata di Goti: It was founded in the 12th century and hasn't been changed in the past few centuries. Definitely visit it. Centro Storico di Sant'Agata de' Goti - 2022 Lohnt es sich? (Mit fotos) (tripadvisor.ch) Dinner was at a small pizzeria on a hill near Sant Agata. Amazing fresh wine and homemade pizza.
Day 5: Procida: What a lovely island! We loved the colours and the atmosphere. Take the slower ferry for 28 Euros. We booked our tickets 45 minutes before the boat left. Dinner at Vineco.
Day 6: We toured the old part of Naples: Crazy, loud, moped-filled, tight alleys that need to be seen. We went to the Cathedral, the street of cribs and the underground quarry/water storage tour. We then went to Mergelina for a walk along the harbour. Back to Vineco in the evening.
Day 7: Back to Switzerland by train. Our train in Milan was delayed 75 minutes due to a train breakdown in the Neat tunnel under the Gotthard.
Hope this helps anyone planning on going to Naples and vicinity.
Journey: We used the train interrail pass from Lucerne - Naples - Lucerne. It's a long trip but we booked first class from Milan- Naples - Milan. The whole trip cost SFr. 280.
Hotel: Smart Hotel located on a pier at the Port and is often between cruise ships. It's not a cheap hotel but the location is central, QUIET, safe, clean and easy to get to the ferries and metro. There are also good restaurants nearby. https://tinyurl.com/smart-hotel
Get patio rooms with views that are farther away from the reception. If you are travelling in a group, get patio rooms next to each other. Breakfasts are fine but it gets a bit loud. We had problems with our safe but the reception was quick in sending someone to help us. Quick as in within two minutes.
Restaurants: We only went to three restaurants in the Port area due to repeat visits:
1) La Lazzara. This is excellent and reasonable but busy so book ahead. We went twice.) TRATTORIA PIZZERIA LA LAZZARA, Naples - Porto - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Order Online Food Delivery - Tripadvisor
2) Vineca: We stumbled upon this one. It's close to the Port metro entrance but is quiet, friendly, reasonable and delicious. We went here three times. Say hi to Rosa from the Swiss group. VINECO CUCINA: CULTURA E PASSIONE, Naples - Porto - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Reservations - Tripadvisor
3) Trattoria Medina (on Medina Street). This was the most touristic restaurant filled with adrenelin-filled male staff. The food was fine but it was our least favourite. TRATTORIA MEDINA, Naples - Via Medina 32, Porto - Restaurant Reviews & Phone Number - Tripadvisor
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival at Garibaldi Central Station, check in at hotel and dinner. We discovered La Lazzara that night and fell in love with its food and service.
Day 2: Six hour city tour with Saint Elmo's views being the highlights. Dinner at Lazzara again.
Day 3: Amalfi Coast with a rented bus and tour guide. We loved our brief visit in Sorrent and the views of Positano are simply stunning. We stopped in Amalfi and fought the crowds, saw the church (worth it) and then took a ferry to Salerno. Next time, I would time a ferry from Positano to Amalfi and then get on the bus again. Dinner at Vineco
Day 3: Heracleum and Vesuv: Our tour guide took us through Heracleum and then we walked up to Vesuv. Vesuv requires advanced booking but because our tour guide had connections, we were able to book on that day. Heracleum was interesting thanks to our tour guide and Vesuv is great for the views and hike. Dinner at Medina.
Day 4: Caserta Palace, Aquaduct and then the highlight for me: Sant Agata di Goti: We took the train to Caserta to see the Palace inspired by Versailles but never really lived in. Lots of marmor and granite and the gardens are stunning. After another visit of a church on a hill and an aquaduct, we visited the most charming, authentic, medievial village I've ever seen in Italy: Sant Agata di Goti: It was founded in the 12th century and hasn't been changed in the past few centuries. Definitely visit it. Centro Storico di Sant'Agata de' Goti - 2022 Lohnt es sich? (Mit fotos) (tripadvisor.ch) Dinner was at a small pizzeria on a hill near Sant Agata. Amazing fresh wine and homemade pizza.
Day 5: Procida: What a lovely island! We loved the colours and the atmosphere. Take the slower ferry for 28 Euros. We booked our tickets 45 minutes before the boat left. Dinner at Vineco.
Day 6: We toured the old part of Naples: Crazy, loud, moped-filled, tight alleys that need to be seen. We went to the Cathedral, the street of cribs and the underground quarry/water storage tour. We then went to Mergelina for a walk along the harbour. Back to Vineco in the evening.
Day 7: Back to Switzerland by train. Our train in Milan was delayed 75 minutes due to a train breakdown in the Neat tunnel under the Gotthard.
Hope this helps anyone planning on going to Naples and vicinity.
#2
Original Poster

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,236
Likes: 1
I think this was the first time I posted a trip report and there was not one reply. I must be losing my touch. So to generate discussion to this rather dry report and gener, I have added some debatable experiences.
1) A waiter was visibly shocked when one member of the group wanted to order a capuccino after dinner. There were snarky, humorous remarks made that caused the whole group to giggle.
2) At the train station, there was a "homeless" man lying on the pavement without a blanket and basically appeared dead. People just walked by, including us. We often wondered if we should have tried to wake him but were afraid of his response if he we woke him up.
3) The Amalfi coast is beautiful but overrated due to the crowds and prices. We were glad to leave Amalfi after an hour... too many tourists.
1) A waiter was visibly shocked when one member of the group wanted to order a capuccino after dinner. There were snarky, humorous remarks made that caused the whole group to giggle.
2) At the train station, there was a "homeless" man lying on the pavement without a blanket and basically appeared dead. People just walked by, including us. We often wondered if we should have tried to wake him but were afraid of his response if he we woke him up.
3) The Amalfi coast is beautiful but overrated due to the crowds and prices. We were glad to leave Amalfi after an hour... too many tourists.
#3
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 22
3. I agree with your comments about the Amalfi Coast. We spent most of a day visiting the towns by ferry and bus. We preferred Ravello of all the towns as it wasn’t totally mobbed but I have no desire to return to any of the AC.
We really enjoyed Naples and stayed near the waterfront in the Chiaia district.
We really enjoyed Naples and stayed near the waterfront in the Chiaia district.
Last edited by HappyTrvlr; Oct 13th, 2022 at 11:15 AM.
#4

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,857
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kleebat, we spent four days each in Naples and Atrani end April/early May this year. It wasn’t yet tourist season on the Amalfi Coast and if got to be too much we could always escape back to our Airbnb in Atrani, a quiet haven. We took the bus up to Ravello and spent a day there, truly magical.
Naples too we loved, gritty, dirty and all. We did a half day trip to Pompeii, but stayed in town the rest of the time, could easily have spent another four days there and not run out of things to do. But I must admit the huge mounds of trash piled up everywhere did bother me, how I wish they’d find a way to tackle this issue.
Naples too we loved, gritty, dirty and all. We did a half day trip to Pompeii, but stayed in town the rest of the time, could easily have spent another four days there and not run out of things to do. But I must admit the huge mounds of trash piled up everywhere did bother me, how I wish they’d find a way to tackle this issue.
#6
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Joined: May 2005
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geetika: The trash can be offputting at times. It gets cleaned up but the next day people just throw litter in the same place. To be fair, I didn't see many trash bins around for the public to use.
HappyTrvlr: I wish we could have had more time to explore smaller towns like Atrani on the Amalfi Coast.
Adelaidean: I've heard Australia is pretty amazing too!
4) We almost did get hit by mopeds using zebra crossings as short cuts on multiple occasions. I'm amazed there aren't more accidents.
HappyTrvlr: I wish we could have had more time to explore smaller towns like Atrani on the Amalfi Coast.
Adelaidean: I've heard Australia is pretty amazing too!
4) We almost did get hit by mopeds using zebra crossings as short cuts on multiple occasions. I'm amazed there aren't more accidents.
#7
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Thank you kleeblatt! I'll be in Naples for 8 nights in December (my first time in Naples). I've noted your top two restaurant recommendations which are within walking distance of my B&B. I've also added Sant Agata di Goti onto my list!
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#8

Joined: Jan 2009
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Thanks for writing, kleeblatt. Like Adelaidean, I'm envious of the ability to visit another country so easily, and the train system there in European is wonderful. Sounds like you had a great time. I've long wanted to visit Procida and Ischia. I had a week in Positano with a friend quite a few years ago and explored the coast - loved it but it was busy, even in May.
#9

Joined: Apr 2010
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Dee_Dee, strongly recommend visiting the San Severo chapel to see the Christo Velato or Christ in Veils. One of the most beautiful sculptures I’ve ever seen, something I hadn’t even heard about till I started researching Naples. It moved me to tears, I could have stayed there looking at it all day!
#10
Joined: Sep 2005
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Dee_Dee, strongly recommend visiting the San Severo chapel to see the Christo Velato or Christ in Veils. One of the most beautiful sculptures I’ve ever seen, something I hadn’t even heard about till I started researching Naples. It moved me to tears, I could have stayed there looking at it all day!
#11
Joined: Oct 2013
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We loved Naples and would happily return. Dee_Dee, I’ll have to try to find the names of our favorite restaurants. We stayed at a B&B called Napoli Bonita, across from the Toledo metro. That’s not, by chance, where you’re staying?
#12

Joined: Feb 2007
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I appreciate the post, as I am planning a few nights in Naples next February. I have been twice before for short stays, and I am enjoying it more and more. I also want to go to Procida next time. Liked the tips about what you did with the guides since I am considering maybe taking a small group at some point.
#13
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Joined: May 2005
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I appreciate the post, as I am planning a few nights in Naples next February. I have been twice before for short stays, and I am enjoying it more and more. I also want to go to Procida next time. Liked the tips about what you did with the guides since I am considering maybe taking a small group at some point.
Trash: You’ll see it in the streets and alleys. It’s not as bad as some of the photos seem during the rubbish strikes but you are constantly reminded that the garbage disposal system still could improve.
Safety: We felt safe. As safe as in any other major city.
Last edited by kleeblatt; Oct 22nd, 2022 at 01:37 AM.
#14
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#15
Joined: Oct 2013
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I’m going to dig through some old credit card statements to see if I can figure out where we ate. My husband wrote in down in a little notepad but he misplaced it some months back. Stay tuned. I’m curious myself because we do plan to return.
Kneeblatt, thanks for sharing your report!
Kneeblatt, thanks for sharing your report!
#16
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 602
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I’m going to dig through some old credit card statements to see if I can figure out where we ate. My husband wrote in down in a little notepad but he misplaced it some months back. Stay tuned. I’m curious myself because we do plan to return.
Kneeblatt, thanks for sharing your report!
Kneeblatt, thanks for sharing your report!
#17
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 15
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HI, just wondering if you could elaborate a little more on Procida? Or perhaps you have and I can't see it - ?? Sorry.
It is on my radar. When you mention the slower ferry, how long are we talking? And the faster option? We are staying in Sorrento.
Thank you
It is on my radar. When you mention the slower ferry, how long are we talking? And the faster option? We are staying in Sorrento.
Thank you
#18
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,236
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Once you arrive, head up a wonderful narrow “Main Street” to TERRA MURATA, the highest point on the island Enjoy the views and take photos of Marina Corricella, the highlight of the island. This small pastel-coloured village is a delight on the eyes and its fish restaurants and views the perfect way to enjoy a few hours.
Walk back to the harbour to explore the shops and edit for your return boat.
#19


Joined: Jan 2008
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Thanks for this TR Kleeblatt. Sounds like that group travel agreed with you. Always interested in hearing more about Procida and Ischia.
Btw, have you seen Progol's TR and atmospheric photos of Napoli backstreets?
I am done. the bacio
Btw, have you seen Progol's TR and atmospheric photos of Napoli backstreets?
I am done. the bacio
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