Just got back from my first solo journey, 14 days in Italy. I want to encourage women who are considering whether to go it solo to absolutely do it!! If I can do it, you can too. It was really a self-discovery experience for me. I know it sounds corney, but I feel like this trip has made a profound impact on my life . . . a new-found confidence. I now feel I can go, by myself, and be just fine, better than fine, in fact, so much better than going with someone and having to constantly compromise. I can honestly say, I never felt lonely for one moment. I felt frustration dealing with transporation/travel issues, i.e., getting my suitcase on and off trains, ferries, wondering if I was on the right train, ferry, bus, but luckily I was fine everytime. It's always scary stepping outside that comfort zone, but once you do it, you will never go back to being afraid again. Experiencing the exhileration of having done it, on your own is priceless. I did a lot of patting myself on my back and saying way to go Barb. I met so many wonderful people, which I am not sure I would have if I had been with someone else. I had dinner out every night and either met someone there, or had dinner with someone I had already met. I have a long list of email addresses from new friends I hope I will have for some time. So, having said all that, here's where I went and what I did.

Rome - 9/26 - 9/30<BR><BR>I stayed at Residenza San Pantaleo. I was a little apprehensive due to some negative comments here, but I must say my room was just fine. It was small, but clean, w/large window on a inner courtyard, so very quiet at night. The bathroom was a good size with good light and small shower, but hot water and good pressure. The location could not be better, just around the corner from P. Navonna and the entrance was on a little non-traffic piazza right off the main street and, a bancomat right next door. <BR> Arrived at 8:30 a.m. and after checking in had cappuccino at Tre Scalini where I planned my day. BTW, I took a limo service from the airport to the hotel which I really recommend. So nice to see someone waiting for you with your name on a placard and well worth the 39 E. So off I went to Campo Di Fiori .. bought an apple and walked to Trastevere. What a great place. Went to S. Maria of Trastevere, such a beautiful and serene church. In wondering around, I came across a very charming little trattoria for lunch, Mario's, Via del Moro, 53. I had an antipasti plate of bruschetta, olive oscolani, crochettie, fiorie de zucca with wine for 5.49 E. what a great introduction to Rome.

Good on you Barb! Tell us the rest of the story.<BR>I travel with my husband now I'm married but before that I travelled a few times on my own and I can really relate to that feeling of empowerment. You come back feeling you can do anything. I'm really happy for you.<BR>Kay

For dinner that night I went to Ecco Bomba, Via Tormillina 22, right off P. Navonna. I had a wonderful salad and Bombolita Broccole e Salsiccia, pasta w/broccoli and sausage - sooo good, w/vino, 16E. Met a couple from Australia, great people. <BR><BR>Day 2: Found good Internet cafe to let everyone know I made it and was safe and sound and having a great time. Just a few blocks north of P. Navonna. Just ask at the "I" off Piazza. On the way there I stumbled upon a beautiful little church, Saint Augustino, a hidden gem on a little back street. <BR> Went on the Scavi tour at 1:30, so glad I made reservations. extremely interesting. It was very humid down there, and very confined, and a little claustrophobic, if you are bothered with this. On my way back, walked to Castel S. Angelo and climbed to the top. Great view of Rome. Walked back to P. Navonna and had a nice relaxing drink at my favorite place --- if you are facing north, it's the last place on you right. Great service. A little dish of olives with your drink if you ask. Wonderful place to people watch and write in my journal. More tomorrow . . .

Dinner that night was at La Carbonara in Campo di Fiori - good roast lamb/roast potatoes, mushrooms and salad w/vino - 22E. Met a really nice couple from Vashon Island, WA. <BR>Day 3: Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva w/Bernini's statue of Elephant carrying Egyptian oblesk, just behind Pantheon. St. Catherine's body is buried here, her head is in Siena. Very beautiful stained glass windows. Strolled to Trevi Fountain and then to Spanish Steps. Thanks to a helpful hint from a Fodorite, I found the short cut to Borghese through the metro stop. Took many escalators up to the top and then through a field past the horse stables and across a not very busy street to the Borghese Gardens. All very well marked. It was hard to believe I was in the middle of Rome. A nice little break from the hustle,bustle. The Gallery was wonderful. David was quite different from Michaelangelo's David. Quite realistic. My fav was The Rape of Prosperine - while disturbing, his skill as a sculptor is so evident in the way Pluto's fingers dig into her thighs . . . so real. <BR>Ok, this time I mean it, tomorrow.

Enjoying your trip, please do report more tomorrow. I hope the rest of the trip is as nice for you.

Had the absolute best pizza of my whole trip, even in Naples - at Jeliel Ristorante, Vicolo di Montevecchio, 8. You take the middle street off W. side of P. Navona then 1st right and then veer left at the next corner and go down about 2 blocks. Had a huge salad and pizza braesole - dried beef w/parmisan shavings, argula, mozz. on a wonderful crispy crust, w/vino 16 E. After some more wandering around a little more and a short nap I was off again in quest of finding the perfect place for dinner. La Sangresta, Via del Seminario 89 was very good. Grilled vegetables, pasta with a really yummy creamy porcini sauce & vino 20E with gratis lemoncello. Walked back through P. Navona, which is just magical at night with the music, street entertainers and a great atmosphere of fun. <BR>Day 4: Great day, sunny, relaxing stroll through the Jewish Ghetto. Found a very charming little fountain with the turtle. The ruins there are amazing to see. Wandered over to Tiberna Island where I sort of became part of a wedding party at S. Bartholo Church. It was so funny, I took pictures and everything. Found another great little place for lunch, Da Gigetto, sorry I don't have the address here at work, but it was a Fodor's rec. and very easy to find. Had the most delicious fried artichoke that just melted in my mouth and stuffed zucchini blossoms, then Bucatini Arrabbiata, which was very good w/vino, 16 E. I then tried to find Basilica di Santa Marie in Cosmedin, and after walking miles out of my way, discovered it had been right where I had started looking for it and, yes, I did stick my hand in La Bocce Della Verita, I just had to. After a short nap I went back to Trevi Fountain to throw in my 3 coins, had to ensure my return. Another great dinner at Er Faciolara, Via dei Pasteni, 123 - off P. Pantheon. Salad, gnocchi w/gorgonzolo, pine nuts and spinaci in padello w/vino - 22 E.<BR>

Barb, I just returned from Rome, Venice and Florence for two weeks traveling solo. I loved it too. Although I've traveled by myself many times for many years, this was my most extensive. I had to laugh though because I also went to the Ecco Bomba restaurant in Rome (several times) and loved it. Maybe there is something about it that makes solo travelers feel at ease. I didn't throw three coins in the Trevi Fountain, just one american dime. It must have worked though because I've already booked my return trip to Rome in March!

Today I was off to Procida. Took the train to Napoli and then taxi to Molo Beverello - aliscafo (hydro-foil) to Procida. Procida was like going back in time, sort of untouched, no tourists, not much shopping, but as an artist, so many interesting, colorful things to paint. Most of the island is all about fishing, so some lovely little marinas with fishermen tying their nets and cats sunning themselves on top of heaps of nets. I had the BEST seafood here. Stayed at Hotel Celeste, which was lovely. Very nice owners and the most helpful girl who spoke some english and helped run the place. My room was small, but very clean and just right for me. The hotel has a restaurant, but it's not always open. You have to sign up for dinner at breakfast, so I only ate there the first night. Great fish!! Ristorante Crescenzo is about 5 min. walk from the hotel down the hill at Chielollo. Very picturesque little marina. The calamari at Crescenzo is so good. The Crescenzo is also a small hotel. <BR> The streets on the island are extremely narrow and winding and very busy with cars, buses and skooters. The buses run every 20 min. and take you all over the island. There are also 3 wheeled- mini-taxis. I met some really wonderful people on the island, some other tourists, english,who are regulars here and some locals. The movie Il Postino was filmed here. You will not hear much english spoken. After a day trip to Ischia, I was very glad to get back to the slow-pace of Procida. The seafood alone was worth the trip. So, it was rather sad to leave here and say goodbye to all my new friends, but I was off to Sorrento.

Dori - isn't Rome wonderful. It is the perfect place to go solo. You can wander around and be so anonymous, no one cares if you are alone. Also, never once felt unsafe, even walking all over at night.

Barb,<BR><BR>I really enjoyed reading about your trip to Rome. It all sounds really familiar to me because I took my very first solo vacation to Rome this past March, and also stayed at the Residenza San Pantaleo. Location was great! <BR><BR>I share your sentiments about the feeling of self-discovery and empowerment for taking the leap into solo traveling. Although I did get a little lonely my last 2-3 days of the trip, I would do it again in a heartbeat. <BR>

Barb, I totally agree. Sandi, how was the weather in Rome last March when you went? I will be going back the last week in March. Also, did you find any restaurants, areas, etc. that seemed to be a nice mix of people, including solo diners, etc.?

Took the ferry back to Naples and taxi to train station where I caught the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento. There is always that moment standing on the train platform when you ask yourself, is this the right train and luckily someone else was wondering the same thing and being the only people there with luggage we sort of bonded together and got on the train with our fingers crossed and did make it Sorrento. Another wonderful couple from England. Met so many really lovely Brits on this trip. Sorrento is like an oasis in the middle of the desert and was somewhat of a shock to my system after Procida. It's very beautiful, but very busy, lots of tourists, everyone speaking English! The downside for solo travelers here is that there are lots of couples and honeymooners, so I felt a little more conspicuous being on my own. Of course, it did not deter me from having a great time, especially dining alone. I stayed at Palazzo Starace, which could not have been better for me. The room was large, a double with table/chairs, fridge, cupboard that could be locked, big, bright bathroom. The only downside, you had to walk up to the 5th floor. There was a little sort of cage like thing that you could put your suitcase in to be hoisted up to the top, but was not working on the day I left, and the very nice help there, carried my bag down all those stairs. I felt the walk up those stairs justified my eating so many delicious meals. The location of the hotel, actually it is a B&B, was right off the busy Corso Italia, but my room faced a very small back street, so the noise was not an issue. It was so central to everything it was perfect for me. Breakfast was included at your choice of two bars right across the street, Cafe Primavera was my choice. <BR> My first full day there was a rainy one, so I bagged my plans to go to Capri (have been there before) and just hung out in Sorrento. Did a little shopping. Had a really good dinner at "O Parrucchiano", Corso Italia, 71-73. Lovely tiered gardens. I had insalta mista, paccate al limone, patate al forno, funghi trifalati (salad, veal in a lemon sauce, roasted potatoes, mushrooms w/garlic, parsley) & vino for 23E.

The next day was sunny, so I took the bus to Amalfi and then up to Ravello. What an absolutely breathtaking view from there. I wandered around, so lovely, and ran into some women I had met on the bus, so we decided to find a place to have lunch. Salvatore - it is perched on the side of the hill looking way down to the beautiful blue water. Wonderful food, homemade pasta with pumpkin sauce and "ripped" guinea fowl, so delicious. While sitting there I overheard a very familiar voice from the table right next to mine and when I turned around, sure enough, it was Gore Vidal. Apparently he has a villa just down the hill from there. <BR> The bus ride down the Amalfi is just to be missed. I'm a little nervous of heights, so I sat on the cliff side of the bus and was just fine. I wish I had had more time to visit some of the smaller little towns and villages along there, they looked so lovely. <BR>

Correction, the bus ride is "not" to be missed. Next day I took a tour to Cassino/Caserta through Scenic Travel. We left at 7:15 and returned to Sorrento at 6:30, so it was a full day. Cassino has special meaning to me because my father fought there, was wounded and lost his good friend. Very moving to see the memorial. The palace at Caserta was very impressive. Some say it rivals Versailles. A very good tour and I am so glad I did it. My last day in Sorrento was just spent leisuring strolling and, of course, eating. The Vela Bianca at Marina Piccolo was the highlight of my gastronomic adventures in Sorrento. Absolutely delicious pasta with seafood, grilled eggplant, zuccini, carrots, pumpkin, green beans and grilled sea bass, worth the splurge of 35E. <BR> With a little trepidation, I was off to Naples for my last day in Italy. Stayed at Hotel Rex, which was very nice and the location was great, right by the water in Santa Lucia. Very central and within walking distance to many things. Naples is not for the faint of heart, but I really enjoyed it. Throngs of people, traffic that is just hard to even describe or imagine, but hands down, the most friendly people in Italy!! Had wonderful pizza at Alfredo Mattozzi, Piazza Carita, 2, great waiter and good place to people watch. Walked up Via Toledo and to the Galleria, which really reminded me of Milan. I decided not to go to the Archeo Museum because I just was trying to do too much and I wanted my last day to be somewhat relaxed. I strolled down Via Maddaloni through the "Spaccanapoli" area. This was a wonderful area, shops, cafes, lots of university students, just loved it. Unfortunately, the three churches I wanted to see there were closed. Helps to check to check out open/close times for things you really want to see and plan accordingly. Started to sprinkle so I walked back down to Santa Lucia and found a place to buy some prosecco to take to my room for a little pre-dinner drink. As I was also buying some olives to go with my prosecco, the owner insisted I have some cheese to go with it and broke off a chunk of delicious cheese and stuck it in with my olives. I just love the Neopolitans. The stress started when upon asking at the front desk if I could get a taxi to the airport the next morning for my early departure at 7:00, I was told no, there was a taxi strike starting the next morn. I felt ill. How was I going to get to the airport. Other guests were just as upset and some were planning on going to the airport that evening and sleeping there!!

I was desparately trying to figure a way out of this mess. I inquired about a limo-service, hiring a driver - I was willing to do just about anything, even sleep all night at the airport if I had to. I just couldn't imagine the hassle of missing my flights - Naples-Rome, Rome-Atlanta, Atlanta-Seattle, Seattle-Bellingham!! I decided to go out for a walk and was rather in a daze when I found myself in a little dark alley and realized I had to pull myself together and deal with this. I found a really neat little restaurant, not far from my hotel, Zio Jack, Via Palepoli, 6F/6G. When I walked in there was a man and woman at the bar having a drink and other than them I was the only one in there. The woman came over to my table and said because the waiter did not speak english, she would be glad to help me with the menu. We ended up talking about the taxi strike and while I was trying to eat and not worry, she came back with a taxi driver!! who said he would pick me up the next morning at 5:00 a.m. and take me to the airport. So, you can see why I think so highly of the Neapolitans. So, long story short, I made it to the airport and about 34 (brutal)hours later I arrived home in the great Pacific NW. <BR> So, to all you solo travelers, walk into a restaurant w/an attitude like you are someone important, scope out a good table where you will not feel conspicuous being by yourself. Do not accept a table by the kitchen or the entrance and above all smile and be gracious and believe me, you will get great service and have a wonderful meal. I did not go to any really expensive high-end restaurants, but usually smaller trattorias/osterias and never felt uncomfortable. As I said earlier, I usually ended up talking to someone next to me. So, now I'm planning my next trip - Italy - France - Italy - France??? <BR>

Dori,<BR><BR>The weather was very pleasant during the first week of March when I went to Rome. Only rained part of one day. I wore long-sleeve t-shirt type shirts and jeans and a light wind-breaker type jacket. <BR><BR>As far as meals, I'm afraid I can't help you much. I honestly don't make dining an important part of my trips except for pure sustenance so I can go out and sightsee some more. I stopped at lots of little shops/delis with pizzas in their windows and sandwiches. But I was most impressed with the pizza I had over in the Trastevere area of Rome. It was the best by far. Had some really good and inexpensive Gelato in a small shop off of Pizza Navona, think it was called Quatro something or other. <BR><BR>Barb,<BR><BR>Give France a try next time. I took a 2-week bus tour all over the country a couple years ago and it was an amazing trip. I'm sure you could plan something for just yourself by taking trains and other public transport.

I will also be taking a 2 week solo vaction to Rome in November. I'm excited but also a little frightened. I don't know the language and my sense of direction is not that great. I've done a lot of research and have in mine all the things I want to see. I've booked a couple of tours I have made plans to take the train to Assisi for 2 days, other than that it will be just Rome.<BR>Some questions: Is it pretty easy to get around? How about walking in the evening hours?<BR><BR>Your recommendations sound great, any other suggustions?<BR><BR>Thanks

Did you visit Caserta in afternoon? How long should be spent there? I ask because until recently Caserta billed itself with morning-only hours like most every Naples museum, which made terrible conflicts in seeing them.<BR><BR>BTW the guidebooks list 2 airport bus lines to respective convenient centers in Naples. If nobody told you about them I hope that isn't a bad sign for me using them. Do you remember the taxi fare? thanks

Valerie you will love Rome. It seems huge at first, but the ancient city and the area where most of the sites are is really very small. Get a good map, Streetwise Rome was good. It really helped me to have a game plan for the day, otherwise, I found myself kind of wandering around aimlessly. I didn't necessarily stick to it, but it was good for me, to have a goal for each day. I think taking a tour is good, if you are feeling a little lonely, it's a great way to meet people. I can guarantee you will meet people, just smile and don't be afraid to talk to people. It is very easy to get around. I walked everywhere. The buses and metro are easy too, but I didn't need to use them. I did not ever feel unsafe walking around at night. I did not walk down any streets that made me feel uncomfortable tho. If you just use common sense like you do at home, you will be just fine.