During spring break my senior year in high school, I joined friends on a camping road trip north on Highway 1 in California. There were many memorable events, including nearly being hit head-on by a huge truck on a Highway 1 bridge (thanks for saving us Denny!), me losing my wallet at “The Big Artichoke” in Castroville and our friend Andy famously ordering pie al à mode (“oh, and can I have ice cream with that?”) at Alioto’s in San Francisco. But my fondest recollection is having a bite to eat at the gorgeous Nepenthe restaurant nestled atop a mountain in Big Sur overlooking the Pacific Ocean. A few weeks ago (and 56 years after my first visit), I returned to Nepenthe and its breathtaking views.

https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/nep...ur-california/

NEPENTHE - BIG SUR, CA

During spring break my senior year in high school, I joined friends on a road trip north on Highway 1 in California. There were many memorable events, including nearly being hit head-on by a huge truck on a Highway 1 bridge (thanks for saving us Denny!), me losing my wallet at “The Big Artichoke” in Castroville and our friend, Andy, famously ordering pie al a mode (“oh, and can I have ice cream with that?”) at Alioto’s in San Francisco. But my fondest recollection is having a bite to eat at the gorgeous Nepenthe restaurant nestled atop a mountain in Big Sur overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Besides the incredible view, two events made dining at this iconic spot memorable. While looking out at the ocean, I couldn’t help but notice that sitting right next to us was singer Judy Collins, who had recently had a hit with Both Sides Now (yes, I know it was written by Joni Mitchell). Pretty cool for a bunch of seventeen year olds! But what was even more remarkable was the fact that a basket of french fries cost $6. I barely had $6 in my soon-to-be-lost wallet, and that price was considerably higher than the 26-cent fries I was used to ordering at McDonalds.

So fast-forward (gulp) nearly 56 years later, and we were visiting Carmel for a couple of days mid-week with friends Kim and Mary. They had never been to Nepenthe, and it was only about a 45-minute drive down the coast from Carmel, so once the sun broke through the fog we were on the road. The small parking lot was filling up rapidly when we arrived about 10 minutes after its 11:30 opening time.

Up the stairs we ambled (or whatever the hell I do at my age) toward the patio. We checked out the log cabin interior, but when our hostess told us her favorite table in the restaurant was available on the patio, we snatched the opportunity.

Originally a small cabin was built on this spot which was acquired by Orson Welles and his wife Rita Hayworth in the mid 1920s. They sold it (and the surrounding 12 acres) in the late 1940s to Bill and Madeleine (Lola) Fossett, who built the Nepenthe restaurant in 1949. (see More than 500 people attended the grand opening. In the 1960s a gift shop was added and in 1992 a walk-up cafe, but it is Nepenthe where you want to dine.

While I regaled our very fun server with Judy Collins memories (I’m sure she was captivated), Kim and Tracy took a loop around the deck to snap photos.

That view is still something to behold. The ocean was sparkling with gorgeous hues of blue that we don’t see in Southern California waves.

This is where Judy and I dined, which has amazing views.

Some people prefer the back patio, but we preferred the glorious coastline view from where we were seated.

It was time to soak in the pine-scented air and enjoy a memorable meal in this picturesque setting. The gentle raindrops falling overhead juxtaposed with the view down the coast where glimpses of blue skies peeked through the fog-shrouded coast.

Mary ordered the Famous Ambrosiaburger, “ground steak sandwich, served on a French roll with our ‘Famous’ Ambrosia Sauce,” while Kim tried the French Dip sandwich with Havarti cheese.

Tracy and I each had a bowl of the Soup of the Day, which happened to be Roasted Tomato with Goat Cheese and, of course, we ordered a big basket of those infamous fries for the table (which now will set you back $15, but it is a giant bowl of crispy, crunchy delectable fries).

Most lunch menu items are served with your choice of garbanzo-kidney bean salad (Tracy loved this as it reminded her of her Nana’s garbanzo bean salad … I’ll have to take her word for that), crunchy coleslaw or tossed green salad.

As we weren’t driving, Tracy and I shared a split of the house chardonnay which is produced locally at ROAR in the Santa Lucia Highlands just for the restaurant. It was quite tasty. So were those fries!

The terrace where we were sitting was once dominated by a giant coastal live oak that died in the 1970s. A local sculptor (Edmund Kara) created a sculpture (Rising Phoenix) from a piece of redwood that sat on the side of Highway 1, complete with bronze legs that soars over the patio area where that oak tree used to stand.

As you can see, about an hour after opening the Nepenthe fills up rapidly, so our best recommendation is get here before noon as they do not take reservations.

Mai Tai Tom Tip: In mid-January 2026, after being closed for three years for repairs, Highway 1 was reopened from the south to Big Sur, so now you can also reach Nepenthe from Cambria on that spectacular stretch of road. Our waitress said that on many weekends the traffic on Highway 1 can be quite substantial, so you might want to plan on going mid-week, as we did.

There are not many other scenic restaurants that provide what Nepenthe has to offer. Being perched 808 feet above the ocean with spectacular views of the mountains and Pacific waves crashing below offers a once-in-a-lifetime (or for me, twice) experience. I really have looked at clouds from both sides now.

Nepenthe
48510 CA-1
Big Sur, CA 93920
831.667.2345
11:30am - 10pm
(Lunch: 11:30 - 4 • Dinner: 5 - 10)
Closed Thanksgiving & Christmas
Parking: Free (Lot)
https://www.phoenixshopbigsur.com/
https://www.phoenixshopbigsur.com/menu

Café Kevah
Opens February 13 (weather permitting)

The Phoenix Shop
10:30 am - 6 pm

We visited Nepenthe about the time of your first visit, sat at the same spot, feasted on "enjoy the view, you're paying for it" fries and sandwiches and marveled at being able to look down on flying birds. A favorite place in memory.

Merci for this outstanding report Tom. Loved the way you used that concluding line. Have always wanted to read something in-depth about that fabled restaurant and its peerless views. Tracy, your photo really shows the unique beauty! Didja bring Garbo?
Ellen and I are snowbirding in Antibes, where at half-past midnight Le SUPER BOWL will commence.

Again, well-done TR Tom--c'est superbe!
I am done. The TD and the baguette

Love Nepenthe, love your photos, love the report. Just one little teensy quibble - "acquired by Orson Welles and his wife Rita Hayworth in the mid 1920s." . . . They married in 1943 and bought the property in 1944

(haven't been back since about a year pre-covid - I need to get down to Carmel one of these days)

janis, thanks. No matter how often we proofread, there's always something.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but was not Nepenthe the site of a small scale outdoor concert circa '69/70, with CSNY plus I wanna say Joni Mitchell performing? I once owned a video of that, the film showing clips of that gig plus a scene wherein a pissed/defensive Stephen Stills confronts some audience hecklers up close and personal.

I am done. The views, the music, tie-dye t-shirts and meals

Unparalleled views at Nepenthe, but I’m more of a Deetjen’s kind of guy. Love driving down for breakfast in their dining room which just screams old time funky Big Sur to me.

Breakfast at Deetjen’s, some easy hikes, lunch at Nepenthe, Point Lobos, cocktails in the Sunset Lounge at Carmel Highlands, dinner at Foray . . . perfect day