englishwomanabroad

My husband and I are planning this trip one way, over four weeks from mid October this year. We want to travel at a leisurely pace (early retirees) and want to take in the most scenic and iconic places. We like to walk, eat great food and have never been to California before. We don't have to stick to the coast but would like a few days somewhere pretty on the coast and would quite like to go to the Grand Canyon though not to Vegas or LA. Will we need to book accommodation in advance or can we rely on sensibly priced but good motels along the way?

jamie99

You might get more and better answers if you post a draft itinerary and let folks help you fine tune it.
Also please provide your lodging budget per night in USD.
Not sure why you are skipping LA, there is a lot to see there besides Hollywood (which only takes 1-2 hours anyway).

englishwomanabroad

Thanks, I will try to be more specific! Our budget is $200+ per night.
Our route so far: Vancouver, Seattle, San Francisco, Yosemite, Santa Cruz, Montery, Carmel, Santa Barbara and San Diego. Not quite sure if we can fit the Grand Canyon into our plans, does anyone have a view on this?
Woukd be very grateful for any help and suggestions.

Gardyloo

Looks like your first post on Fodor's; welcome!

While I love my part of the world (Seattle) I'd probably suggest taking the train from Vancouver to Seattle, doing a limited "loop" road trip around Washington state, then fly to San Francisco and start your main road trip there.

By mid-October you're really rolling the dice on the weather in the Pacific Northwest, while in California it's far less likely that weather will inhibit your plans.

By hiring and leaving a car in California, you'll avoid very high one-way rental car rates, and trust me, there's more than enough to see and do in California and the (near) desert Southwest to fill your time.

Do you see yourselves on the go every day, or is it more your style to visit places more "in depth" - taking a few days to get to know a place better?

There are many possible "loop" trips that one could do with a start/end point in the SF Bay area. Here's one that comes to mind - https://goo.gl/maps/nszT5PAkWt92 .

This would include spectacular coastal scenery from San Francisco south to San Diego, desert scenery in beautiful Joshua Tree National Park and nearby Palm Springs, the red rock country around Sedona, Arizona before the Grand Canyon, then Yosemite and the gold rush country (marvelous in the autumn) before ending back in SF. This could be done in either direction, or there are any number of alternative plans that would feature some wonderful scenery, historic and picturesque towns...

englishwomanabroad

Thank you for that. We are obviously naive about the weather and really appreciate your comments! We are totally flexible still and could easily fly in and out of SF and concentrate on California. We like to spend about three nights in one spot and a less ambitious itinerary would allow us to do this. I have got rather bogged down looking at accommodation in Yosemite, it is either ludicrously expensive or basic and distant, or am I missing something? Are there other parks that we should look at instead? Also what are the best motel/hotel chains offering good clean accommodation at sensible prices, is there any sense in sticking to one chain?
Thank you and sorry but your google map link wouldn't load for me.

Gardyloo

Let's try this link, it's to the UK version of Google Maps - http://tinyurl.com/hmt8w34 (Not sure if this will load on mobile devices.) Or try this Google link,
https://goo.gl/maps/K8QSSHHKGTP2

With six weeks (and I probably didn't really factor in the time of year adequately above) you have time to pick and choose concerning where to hang out and for how long.

The California - Arizona (and a bit of Nevada) route I suggest (and again I want to emphasize that this is one of a near-infinite number of alternatives) covers around 2,200 miles "wheels turning," so with six weeks you could easily spend a few days at various locations, or use some for bases while you day trip around.

The key in my mind is to use your time in a manner that reflects the local weather conditions, which can impede your travel at different times in different places. In the (new) map I'd suggest starting in SF and driving a huge clockwise loop, visiting the gold rush country and Yosemite right at the beginning. You'd then head over the Sierras and down to the Grand Canyon before you run the risk of winter conditions setting in at high altitudes. The Grand Canyon visitor areas are at 7000 - 8000 feet elevation, and while it may look like desert, you don't want to run the risk of icy roads, which can and do occur from November on.

Meanwhile, October days can still be quite hot in the desert, but it cools off fast, and by November the conditions in the likes of Joshua Tree or Palm Springs can be ideal - 70s F during the day, chilly at night, blue skies...

The California coast is much more temperate, and while there are some rainy days in the late autumn, it's not very common, and on the other hand, the rain that does fall only serves to turn the hills from brown to green.

And by the end of your holiday, you'd be able to visit the Big Sur and Monterey Bay coast at a splendid time, for example the incredible show of migrating Monarch butterflies will be visible in Pacific Grove, next to Monterey; or the whales will still be plentiful in Monterey Bay.

Yosemite is notoriously expensive for lodging. Many visitors end up staying outside the national park, in places like Oakhurst or Mariposa, and driving in. It's less than ideal but sometimes necessary. Don't worry, you can still see plenty "day tripping" like this.

The only issues you'll have with accommodation will be in the national parks, especially Yosemite and Grand Canyon. Otherwise I'd probably refrain from looking for particular chains. I'd also keep a smart phone or a laptop with you as you travel, and booking a couple of days ahead will usually be just fine.

I did want to suggest that you spend a couple of days in LA. In the autumn LA can be a lot of fun - visit iconic Hollywood sights and sites, the beaches are beautiful and empty (ideal for walks), you've got world-class museums and wonderful parks... it's not all traffic and glitz, believe me. I confess I personally find San Diego to be less intriguing than LA - some lovely parts to be sure, but nothing like LA's incredible diversity and, frankly, energy. Just my view, sorry to any San Diegans reading.

janisj

Only time for a very quick comment right now.

>>Many visitors end up staying outside the national park, in places like Oakhurst or Mariposa, and driving in.<<

Not a good idea -- those places are 1.5 to 2 hours drive each way just to enter Yosemite Valley. Stay IN the Valley if at all possible. The only other two locations that wouldn't add nearly 4 hours a day to your drives are one of the two motels in El Portal - Yosemite View Lodge is quite nice and Cedar Lodge is more basic/cheaper, . . . or one of the condos in Yosemite West.

Gardyloo

Your places would certainly be better, but the last time I stayed in Mariposa and it took around an hour to the Bridal Veil parking lot. Not great but it's not necessarily a deal breaker. I can't imagine conditions in late October would be very trafficky in the area.

englishwomanabroad

Thanks for that. I guess that we are a bit naive about your weather! So after much deliberation we think that we will take your advice and fly in and out of SF, we can perhaps visit Seattle and Vancouver on another occasion. I have looked at accommodation in Yosemite and have struggled to find something appealing. All advice seems to be to stay within the park? Are there other parks that are similarly spectacular but less popular with less busy accommodation? Joshua Tree looks amazing but obviously quite different.
Unfortunately I was unable to open the google maps link, but thanks for trying!

englishwomanabroad

Sorry to be repetitive much of the above has only just appeared and I thought that my earlier post hadn't been sent properly!

sunbum1944

I have stayed at Yosemite View Lodge and it was fine! You can even take a bus into the park instead of driving if you want.

Barbara

There is nowhere just like Yosemite. You really should not miss it.The accommodation in the Park is booked up a year in advance and there are many cancellations. If you keep checking their site, you are likely to find something. Staying in Yosemite Valley would be best, and most expensive. Janice mentioned El Portal. It is an easy, quick drive into the park. I once stayed at Cedar Lodge (no availability at Yosemite View). It was not great and I don't recommend it. So, try for Yosemite View.

jamie99

For the coastal drive, I would stay in Monterey two nights if possible (Carmel is right next door and Santa Cruz not too far north), see the Aquarium, maybe go kayaking, then stay in Cambria or Pismo Beach, then Santa Barbara. It is too far a drive from Monterey to Santa Barbara especially that time of year when days are getting shorter. You DO NOT want to be driving Big Sur part in the dark.
If interested in redwoods, Henry Cowell State Park is 9 miles outside of Santa Fe. If interested in wineries, there are many good ones in Paso Robles near Cambria and Santa Ynez Valley near Santa Barbara.

englishwomanabroad

Thank you for so much help and particularly on weather conditions, we had no idea!
It makes so much sense to travel as you suggest plus you make LA sound very tempting. I still can't get the map to load, can I find them elsewhere?

englishwomanabroad

Is Big Sur after dark a question of missing the sights or for safety reasons?
I have looked again at Yosemite and see that Big Trees Lodge has vacancies in October and it looks nice and so will probably book that when we have booked our flights.
Also I have trawled through 'what's in' sites but not had much luck for mid October to mid November. Are we likely to come across local festivals, rodeos etc etc or is it way out of season?
Thanks again!

janisj

>> I once stayed at Cedar Lodge (no availability at Yosemite View). It was not great and I don't recommend it. <<

I would not stay at Cedar Lodge unless ALL the others were unavailable. Don't google it . . .

>>Is Big Sur after dark a question of missing the sights or for safety reasons?<<

Both - in spades.

>>Big Trees Lodge has vacancies in October and it looks nice and so will probably book that when we have booked our flights. <<

NOT a great choice unfortunately. The Mariposa Grove of redwoods in off limits until next year . . . and the hotel is too far from the Valley - it takes about an hour just to Yosemite Village. (Did we say the park is huge )

Stay IN the Valley or IN El Portal . . .

Gardyloo

I'm stumped by the map problem, but pull up a good map online, and follow here:

On my suggested itinerary you'd travel from San Francisco east to the Sierra foothills, aiming for Sutter Creek along CA Hwy 49. This is the beautiful "gold country" that was the scene of the 1849 gold rush (hence the highway number.) Hwy 49 passes through a string of very picturesque and historic towns, which extend up the various valleys penetrating the High Sierras to the east (the most famous of which is Yosemite Valley.) Before Yosemite, however, take CA Hwy 4 a short distance to Calaveras Big Trees State Park. This is where you'll see giant sequoia trees, the world's largest living things (by volume.) Ordinarily you could see the same trees in the Mariposa Grove, part of Yosemite National Park, but the grove is inaccessible while the Park Service works on various improvements in the area.

Between Hwy 49 and the Calaveras Big Trees park is the little town of Murphys, one of the more attractive gold country towns, and a center of wine-making that's gaining quite a lot of traction. (The whole gold country is an up-and-coming vineyard area.) At the time you're visiting, the whole area should have lovely autumn foliage.

From there it's into Yosemite Valley, by whatever means possible. Although days will be getting short, it's feasible to see Yosemite as a day trip if accommodation is not available. The principal tourist targets - Bridalveil Falls, Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Half Dome, are all visible from the valley floor or (especially) the Tunnel View overlook - http://gardyloo.us/20121128_5.JPG

It's worth noting that it's entirely possible that many of the Yosemite waterfalls, including Yosemite Falls itself, may not have much - or any - water flowing in October. If it hasn't started raining or snowing at higher elevations, there's no water to fall.

After Yosemite, your next major destination is the Grand Canyon, and here personal taste and real-time weather conditions will play a role.

The Sierras are very high mountains that can only be crossed in a few places. Just north of Yosemite Valley, CA 108 crosses Tioga Pass (elevation 9900+ feet) before descending rapidly into the arid country around Mono Lake. From Mono Lake, US 395 goes south through high desert until it connects with routes that will take you to Death Valley or Las Vegas. From Las Vegas it's a day's drive to the Grand Canyon.

However, because of its elevation, Tioga Pass is not open around the year; it closes for winter because of deep snow, and this closing <i>might</i> be a factor in your case. While it usually closes in mid-late November, it's been known to close as early as the third week of October, so there are no guarantees that it will be open when you're in the area.

If it IS closed, then the alternative is to stay on the west side of the Sierras and go around the bottom of the mountains in order to get farther south and east - to the Grand Canyon etc. This would usually involve following CA 99 south to Bakersfield, then east on CA 58 to Barstow, then east on Interstate 40 to Flagstaff in order to reach the Grand Canyon.

After the Grand Canyon, your next listed destination is San Diego. I'd recommend traveling south from the Grand Canyon to Sedona, Arizona, in beautiful "red rock" country, then through Phoenix and west on Interstate 10 to Palm Springs and Joshua Tree National Park, both of which are splendid at that time of year.

Then south to San Diego and then back north along the coast - the whole way - through LA, Santa Barbara, the Big Sur coast, around Monterey Bay (see the coast redwoods - a different species - at Henry Cowell or Big Basin State Parks) before ending back where you started.

This is over 2200 road miles, probably representing at least 40 - 50 (or many more) hours "wheels turning," so you can budget your days accordingly.

englishwomanabroad

Wow gardyloo you've worked hard at that many thanks!
In an earlier post you mentioned that we have 6 weeks when in fact we have 25 full days. That might not be long enough for all this? I greatly appreciate what you're saying and wonder whether we might take in the parks but not go to the Grand Canyon on this trip, in so doing we can perhaps keep with the warmer temperatures and some much needed sunshine?

Janis,I Really appreciate the Yosemite advice, it's so easy to be led astray by websites, no wonder there are spaces. Will definitely stay IN the valley tho I thought that that was where Big Tree Lodge was, I won't book without posting my thoughts here first!

englishwomanabroad

Flights now booked, flying to SF on October 14th! I see that Yosemite Valley Lodge have vacancies for October 22nd onwards, please tell me, is that a good choice?!

janisj

That is a WONDERFUL choice - jump on it! Best location in the park

(that is what the rest of us know as Yosemite Lodge at the Falls -- the name has temporarily - we hope- been changed due to a legal battle between the National Park Service and the old hotel operator)