Trip Report on Salta (Argentina's Northwest)
Oct 22nd, 2008 | 02:55 PM
#1
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Trip Report on Salta (Argentina's Northwest)
Two friends and I just returned last week from 18 days in Argentina. We spent 5 days in Buenos Aires, 9 days in the Salta-Jujuy region, 2 days in Iguazu, and 2 days in Peninsula Valdes.
Our absolute favorite leg of the trip was our time in Salta-Jujuy. (A huge thanks to Fodorites Angie and El Pelar for inspiring us to explore this region!) The landscapes around Salta were gorgeous and extremely varied. Pictures I had seen prior to the trip did not do it justice. We were also blown away by the kindness and good humor of the people we encountered in the Northwest. People were so open to conversing with us, even with our beginner's Spanish. Finally, the richness of the region's indigenous Andean culture made a powerful impression on us. Our trip happened to coincide with the Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario in Iruya, so we stayed two nights in the mountaintop village and experienced a fascinating glimpse into the blending of Catholic and Indigenous traditions. If you happen to be in Argentina in early October, don't miss this unforgettable event.
I hope my trip report inspires other travelers to visit the Northwest. Pictures can be found here: http://lillian.smugmug.com/Travel (though, really, no photo can capture the beauty and feeling of being in Salta!)
Day 1: Salta
We took a two hour flight from Buenos Aires on LAN airlines (good service, plenty of legroom) and arrived in Salta around 1 p.m. We stayed at Hotel Balcarce, which was our favorite hotel in Argentina. It's not a fancy place, but the lobby decor is charming, the entire building is extremely clean, and the staff here outshone the staff at every other hotel we stayed in. Lorena and Ariel, in particular, went out of their way to help us hash out our itinerary, book bus tickets, etc.
Located near a cute stretch of penas and restaurants, Hotel Balcarce is an easy 10-minute walk to the main plaza. We spent the afternoon wandering around the lively plaza, admiring the well-preserved colonial architecture and watching masses of schoolkids drawing and reading in front of Salta's mobile library. We also ducked into MAAM (El Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña) for an hour or so to view its small but excellent exhibit on Incan rituals, and of course, the fascinating mummy of a little boy sacrificed on Llullaillaco volcano. In the days that followed, as we marveled at the mountains surrounding Salta, I often thought back to this exhibit about the sacredness of the Andean peaks in Precolumbian times.
We had an early dinner in the MAAM cafe, which, to our surprise, had great food: fresh tall glasses of banana licuados, ultramoist pork tamales, our first taste of humitas, and delicious salsa made from local peppers.
That night, my friends went to La Vieja Estacion, a pena near Hotel Balcarce, for live folklorico music and llama empanadas, but I turned in early, as we planned to leave at 7 a.m. the next day.
Day 2: Purmamarca, Salinas Grandes, Quebrada del Toro
We had originally planned to rent a car and drive ourselves everywhere, but we quickly discovered that there were absolutely no rental cars with automatic transmission in Salta or Jujuy. We were told that only people with physical disabilities drive automatics. We thought of taking the bus from town to town, but Ariel and Lorena explained that we would miss some of the most spectacular scenery and the opportunity to stop along the way and take pictures. They strongly recommended hiring a private guide/driver, and that's when I lamented not having Angie's phone number with me! Fortunately, the folks at Hotel Balcarce called Vantage, a local company they rely on consistently, and booked two daytrips for us with Noe, an English-speaking guide.
Noe turned out to be outstanding. Warm, thoughtful, and exceedingly funny, we couldn't have asked for a better guide. He spoke excellent English, and from him, we learned so much about local traditions and culture. We especially loved hearing about his involvement in Salta's gaucho club. (This year, they're planning to ride their horses from Salta to Buenos Aires!)
Even though the drives were long, we never felt it because Noe regaled us with funny stories, such as the time two of his passengers got buck naked to take pictures in the Salinas Grandes! He also introduced us to Argentinian folklorico music like that of Jorge Cafrune.
(By the way, Noe knows Angie well and had glowing praise for her excellence as a guide and her generosity as a friend. He strongly recommends her!)
Noe picked us up from the hotel, and we drove past lush green fincas and roads lined with blossoming red sable trees to Purmamarca. We stopped to admire the stunning Seven Colors Hill, then spent an hour ambling around Purmamarca's main plaza. The plaza was filled with vendors of sweaters and scarves, but Noe said that most of it was mass-produced, not locally made. We then drove from Purmamarca to Salinas Grandes, along the twisty Cuesta del Lipan, which is one breathtaking turn after another. We stopped several times to take photos of the beautiful panoramas and at the highest point, 4170 meters above sea level. Then, we continued on past flocks of wild vicunyas and guanacos to the Salinas Grandes.
Make sure you have your sunglasses with you because the salt flats are truly blindingly white--definitely a sight to behold. I would love to come back in the rainy season, when the entire flat turns into a giant mirror.
After the Salt Flats, we continued on the toughest stretch of rocky road towards San Antonio de los Cobres. We came across a flock of llamas very close to the road and stopped to take pictures. At this point, we were finally feeling the effects of the altitude sickness (because we had ascended and descended so quickly), so we were grateful to stop in San Antonio de los Cobres for lunch. In addition to a tasty milanesa of llama, we each had a cup of coca tea that quickly made our queasiness go away.
In the afternoon, we followed the path of the Tren de las Nubes and stopped for more than an hour in Santa Rosa de Tastil to explore the Pre-Incan ruins and marvel at the giant cacti. We then drove along the Quebrada del Toro, which I thought had the most exquisite scenery in all of Salta. At some points, the peaks looked like castles rising out of the mist. Along the way, Noe pointed out some walking paths up and down the gorges to isolated farms that have no electricity and require nine hours of walking to reach.
We finally made it back to Salta around 8 p.m. and, at Noe's suggestion, had dinner at Dona Salta. It's definitely a family type of restaurant, and even on a Wednesday night, it was filled to the max. We had carne and charqui (jerky) empanadas, two cazuelas of huascalocro and locro, and a juicy, tender matambre. We followed up dinner with ice cream at a little heladeria just off the plaza and had our first taste of the famed torrontes ice cream from Cafayate.
To be continued...
Our absolute favorite leg of the trip was our time in Salta-Jujuy. (A huge thanks to Fodorites Angie and El Pelar for inspiring us to explore this region!) The landscapes around Salta were gorgeous and extremely varied. Pictures I had seen prior to the trip did not do it justice. We were also blown away by the kindness and good humor of the people we encountered in the Northwest. People were so open to conversing with us, even with our beginner's Spanish. Finally, the richness of the region's indigenous Andean culture made a powerful impression on us. Our trip happened to coincide with the Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario in Iruya, so we stayed two nights in the mountaintop village and experienced a fascinating glimpse into the blending of Catholic and Indigenous traditions. If you happen to be in Argentina in early October, don't miss this unforgettable event.
I hope my trip report inspires other travelers to visit the Northwest. Pictures can be found here: http://lillian.smugmug.com/Travel (though, really, no photo can capture the beauty and feeling of being in Salta!)
Day 1: Salta
We took a two hour flight from Buenos Aires on LAN airlines (good service, plenty of legroom) and arrived in Salta around 1 p.m. We stayed at Hotel Balcarce, which was our favorite hotel in Argentina. It's not a fancy place, but the lobby decor is charming, the entire building is extremely clean, and the staff here outshone the staff at every other hotel we stayed in. Lorena and Ariel, in particular, went out of their way to help us hash out our itinerary, book bus tickets, etc.
Located near a cute stretch of penas and restaurants, Hotel Balcarce is an easy 10-minute walk to the main plaza. We spent the afternoon wandering around the lively plaza, admiring the well-preserved colonial architecture and watching masses of schoolkids drawing and reading in front of Salta's mobile library. We also ducked into MAAM (El Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña) for an hour or so to view its small but excellent exhibit on Incan rituals, and of course, the fascinating mummy of a little boy sacrificed on Llullaillaco volcano. In the days that followed, as we marveled at the mountains surrounding Salta, I often thought back to this exhibit about the sacredness of the Andean peaks in Precolumbian times.
We had an early dinner in the MAAM cafe, which, to our surprise, had great food: fresh tall glasses of banana licuados, ultramoist pork tamales, our first taste of humitas, and delicious salsa made from local peppers.
That night, my friends went to La Vieja Estacion, a pena near Hotel Balcarce, for live folklorico music and llama empanadas, but I turned in early, as we planned to leave at 7 a.m. the next day.
Day 2: Purmamarca, Salinas Grandes, Quebrada del Toro
We had originally planned to rent a car and drive ourselves everywhere, but we quickly discovered that there were absolutely no rental cars with automatic transmission in Salta or Jujuy. We were told that only people with physical disabilities drive automatics. We thought of taking the bus from town to town, but Ariel and Lorena explained that we would miss some of the most spectacular scenery and the opportunity to stop along the way and take pictures. They strongly recommended hiring a private guide/driver, and that's when I lamented not having Angie's phone number with me! Fortunately, the folks at Hotel Balcarce called Vantage, a local company they rely on consistently, and booked two daytrips for us with Noe, an English-speaking guide.
Noe turned out to be outstanding. Warm, thoughtful, and exceedingly funny, we couldn't have asked for a better guide. He spoke excellent English, and from him, we learned so much about local traditions and culture. We especially loved hearing about his involvement in Salta's gaucho club. (This year, they're planning to ride their horses from Salta to Buenos Aires!)
Even though the drives were long, we never felt it because Noe regaled us with funny stories, such as the time two of his passengers got buck naked to take pictures in the Salinas Grandes! He also introduced us to Argentinian folklorico music like that of Jorge Cafrune.
(By the way, Noe knows Angie well and had glowing praise for her excellence as a guide and her generosity as a friend. He strongly recommends her!)
Noe picked us up from the hotel, and we drove past lush green fincas and roads lined with blossoming red sable trees to Purmamarca. We stopped to admire the stunning Seven Colors Hill, then spent an hour ambling around Purmamarca's main plaza. The plaza was filled with vendors of sweaters and scarves, but Noe said that most of it was mass-produced, not locally made. We then drove from Purmamarca to Salinas Grandes, along the twisty Cuesta del Lipan, which is one breathtaking turn after another. We stopped several times to take photos of the beautiful panoramas and at the highest point, 4170 meters above sea level. Then, we continued on past flocks of wild vicunyas and guanacos to the Salinas Grandes.
Make sure you have your sunglasses with you because the salt flats are truly blindingly white--definitely a sight to behold. I would love to come back in the rainy season, when the entire flat turns into a giant mirror.
After the Salt Flats, we continued on the toughest stretch of rocky road towards San Antonio de los Cobres. We came across a flock of llamas very close to the road and stopped to take pictures. At this point, we were finally feeling the effects of the altitude sickness (because we had ascended and descended so quickly), so we were grateful to stop in San Antonio de los Cobres for lunch. In addition to a tasty milanesa of llama, we each had a cup of coca tea that quickly made our queasiness go away.
In the afternoon, we followed the path of the Tren de las Nubes and stopped for more than an hour in Santa Rosa de Tastil to explore the Pre-Incan ruins and marvel at the giant cacti. We then drove along the Quebrada del Toro, which I thought had the most exquisite scenery in all of Salta. At some points, the peaks looked like castles rising out of the mist. Along the way, Noe pointed out some walking paths up and down the gorges to isolated farms that have no electricity and require nine hours of walking to reach.
We finally made it back to Salta around 8 p.m. and, at Noe's suggestion, had dinner at Dona Salta. It's definitely a family type of restaurant, and even on a Wednesday night, it was filled to the max. We had carne and charqui (jerky) empanadas, two cazuelas of huascalocro and locro, and a juicy, tender matambre. We followed up dinner with ice cream at a little heladeria just off the plaza and had our first taste of the famed torrontes ice cream from Cafayate.
To be continued...
Oct 22nd, 2008 | 09:05 PM
#4
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 115
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Glad this report might be of help, yestravel. Let me know if I can answer any specific questions!
Day 3: Tilcara, Humahuaca, Iruya
Noe picked us up again at 7 a.m. This time, rather than taking the highway from Salta to Jujuy, he took us on a different, more leisurely route through a picturesque cloud forest. Having already seen Purmamarca yesterday, we headed to Tilcara, where we enjoyed wandering the little side streets off the main plaza. Tilcara seemed to be a charming little village with an abundance of cute inns--a place we would have stayed for a few days if we had more time.
The drive from Tilcara to Humahuaca was pretty but not as breathtaking, I thought, as the Quebrada del Toro or as tranquil as the Cuesta del Lipan. Keep your eyes open for the little red shrines to Gauchito Gil along the road.
In Humahuaca (which struck us as a bit overrated), we climbed up the steps to the Monument to Independence; from the top, we had a panoramic view of the village. Noe suggested that we make it back down to the clock tower by noon to see San Francisco Solano emerge from the cuckoo clock. The crowd of tourists in the plaza seemed to love it, but we were a bit puzzled by the fuss. After a quick lunch of empanadas purchased from the line of ladies bearing baskets near the bus station, we set out on the rocky road to Iruya. Along the way, Noe showed us the vestiges of the railroad, which had sparked the growth of so many local villages, including Humahuaca, but withered away when the money dried up.
The road to Iruya was a bit harrowing but beautiful with purple streaked hills. We stopped several times to take pictures and to avoid colliding into buses and trucks on the one-lane roads. Major props to Noe for his awesome driving skills!
We entered Iruya in the late afternoon and were excited by the long line of blue tents--traders, Noe said, who had come to town for the festival to sell their wares.
Noe showed us the abandoned cars that had been used in the making of the famous Iruya Guiness commercial--he had actually been one of the drivers hired to transport the crew between Iruya and Humahuaca. (You can see the commercial here: http://www.magicalplacesfineart.com/...ping-in-iruya/)
Noe delivered us to the Hosteria de Iruya at the top of the hill and bid us goodbye. (We planned to make our way back to Salta by bus but hoped to see Noe again for our Cafayate-Cachi leg.)
Hosteria de Iruya is an odd place. The lobby is elegantly decorated, and the rooms and patio have a stunning view of the hills. However, the entire operation appears to be run by two rather quiet, stoic men who seem a bit overworked. After the outpouring of warmth at Hotel Balcarce, it was an adjustment, but we still enjoyed the hotel's tranquil atmosphere--perfect for a few days of relaxation.
We spent the afternoon and early evening wandering the hilly streets, admiring the homemade decorations that the villagers had put up in honor of the Virgen del Rosario, watching a pick-up soccer game, and talking with local kids playing in the narrow alleys. We slipped into the beautifully decorated church for a little bit of the mass and then slipped out to just sit in the church square, people-watching and chatting with local Iruyans, as well as visitors from "nearby" villages (we learned that many of them had walked for several days to get to Iruya). After the mass, they set up a makeshift movie screen in the church square and played a little documentary introducing all of the tiny neighboring villages that had sent altars and pilgrims to the festival.
In the evening, we returned to the hotel for an excellent dinner--pureed vegetable and corn soups and salads with the softest lettuces we had ever tasted combined with quinoa, Andean potatoes, and goat cheese drizzled with honey.
Tomorrow: the festival!
Day 3: Tilcara, Humahuaca, Iruya
Noe picked us up again at 7 a.m. This time, rather than taking the highway from Salta to Jujuy, he took us on a different, more leisurely route through a picturesque cloud forest. Having already seen Purmamarca yesterday, we headed to Tilcara, where we enjoyed wandering the little side streets off the main plaza. Tilcara seemed to be a charming little village with an abundance of cute inns--a place we would have stayed for a few days if we had more time.
The drive from Tilcara to Humahuaca was pretty but not as breathtaking, I thought, as the Quebrada del Toro or as tranquil as the Cuesta del Lipan. Keep your eyes open for the little red shrines to Gauchito Gil along the road.
In Humahuaca (which struck us as a bit overrated), we climbed up the steps to the Monument to Independence; from the top, we had a panoramic view of the village. Noe suggested that we make it back down to the clock tower by noon to see San Francisco Solano emerge from the cuckoo clock. The crowd of tourists in the plaza seemed to love it, but we were a bit puzzled by the fuss. After a quick lunch of empanadas purchased from the line of ladies bearing baskets near the bus station, we set out on the rocky road to Iruya. Along the way, Noe showed us the vestiges of the railroad, which had sparked the growth of so many local villages, including Humahuaca, but withered away when the money dried up.
The road to Iruya was a bit harrowing but beautiful with purple streaked hills. We stopped several times to take pictures and to avoid colliding into buses and trucks on the one-lane roads. Major props to Noe for his awesome driving skills!
We entered Iruya in the late afternoon and were excited by the long line of blue tents--traders, Noe said, who had come to town for the festival to sell their wares.
Noe showed us the abandoned cars that had been used in the making of the famous Iruya Guiness commercial--he had actually been one of the drivers hired to transport the crew between Iruya and Humahuaca. (You can see the commercial here: http://www.magicalplacesfineart.com/...ping-in-iruya/)
Noe delivered us to the Hosteria de Iruya at the top of the hill and bid us goodbye. (We planned to make our way back to Salta by bus but hoped to see Noe again for our Cafayate-Cachi leg.)
Hosteria de Iruya is an odd place. The lobby is elegantly decorated, and the rooms and patio have a stunning view of the hills. However, the entire operation appears to be run by two rather quiet, stoic men who seem a bit overworked. After the outpouring of warmth at Hotel Balcarce, it was an adjustment, but we still enjoyed the hotel's tranquil atmosphere--perfect for a few days of relaxation.
We spent the afternoon and early evening wandering the hilly streets, admiring the homemade decorations that the villagers had put up in honor of the Virgen del Rosario, watching a pick-up soccer game, and talking with local kids playing in the narrow alleys. We slipped into the beautifully decorated church for a little bit of the mass and then slipped out to just sit in the church square, people-watching and chatting with local Iruyans, as well as visitors from "nearby" villages (we learned that many of them had walked for several days to get to Iruya). After the mass, they set up a makeshift movie screen in the church square and played a little documentary introducing all of the tiny neighboring villages that had sent altars and pilgrims to the festival.
In the evening, we returned to the hotel for an excellent dinner--pureed vegetable and corn soups and salads with the softest lettuces we had ever tasted combined with quinoa, Andean potatoes, and goat cheese drizzled with honey.
Tomorrow: the festival!
Oct 23rd, 2008 | 04:01 PM
#6
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 115
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Day 4: Iruya (Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario)
After a leisurely breakfast in the Hosteria, we headed down to the church square at noon for the Adoration of the Cachis. An enormous crowd had gathered, squeezing into every last inch of the stone bench that circled the plaza. Adorable little kids seemed to spill out of every corner-- literally hanging out of windows, sitting atop their fathers' shoulders, slung from the shawls of siblings only a few years older than themselves. Everyone was eager for a glimpse of the Cachis.
Noe had explained to us that the Cachis are Iruyans who make a special promise to the Virgin each year. For the festival, they perform a traditional dance that simulates the defense of the church. The dance features several colorful characters, all played by men: two "caballeros" wearing sombreros and white horse figures around their waists, a "torito" with a hat shaped like a bull, the hunchbacked and big-bellied "El Negro" or "El Rubio" who carries a baton and represents the outsider boss, and six figures in white masks--three males and three females wearing colorful shawls and long braids.
After each round of dancing, accompanied by men blowing on long horns, the Cachis chased each other around the church square and attempted to loop their ropes around each others' legs. They also pretended to go after little kids in the audience or pretended to whip audience members with their ropes.
After three rounds of dancing, the Cachis entered the church for a private ceremony. We hung around the square awhile longer to watch the pilgrims from surrounding villages trekking into Iruya carrying their own mattresses on their heads, bearing enormous bundles of llama skins on their shoulders, or hoisting whole racks of beef and bags of chickens up the hill. We could only imagine the feasts they were having that night!
We headed down the hill to check out the blue tents in the feria and explore the goods for sale. Our favorite finds: beautiful woven saddle throws that could also double as colorful mats and baskets brimming with blue Andean potatoes and ocas. We had a chance to try out the ocas for lunch when we ducked into one of the tents for some freshly prepared asado. We feasted on grilled chorizo, chicken, and ribs of lamb, as well as a delicious squash soup. The lovely Iruyan family also brought us a complementary picante de mondongo, a spicy intestine soup that was extraordinary.
That night, after the evening mass, everyone assembled again in the church square for a procession. The pilgrims from each village carried the beautiful altars they had built for the Virgin, the altars they had transported to Iruya on foot for several days.
Following the procession was the Luminaria. The Cachis performed their dance again, and then there was an enormous bonfire and fireworks.
At this point, it was nearing 11 p.m., but the night was only just starting. After the Luminaria was a serenata, or concert, in honor of the Virgin. The serenata featured traditional folklorico from Iruyans, as well as musicians from nearby villages. My favorite was Los Hermanitos, two very young gauchos (aged 9 and 14?) who played the guitar and sang a mean chacarera. In between the music, we also had the chance to watch traditional folklorico dances performed by local kids, as well as women dressed in beautiful Spanish dresses and men in white bombachos.
Around 1 a.m., even though the serenata was still going strong, the cold mountain air finally got the better of us, despite the temporary warmth my friends got from the sip of vodka that an Iruyan offered them! We trekked back up the hill to the Hosteria and fell soundly asleep.
After a leisurely breakfast in the Hosteria, we headed down to the church square at noon for the Adoration of the Cachis. An enormous crowd had gathered, squeezing into every last inch of the stone bench that circled the plaza. Adorable little kids seemed to spill out of every corner-- literally hanging out of windows, sitting atop their fathers' shoulders, slung from the shawls of siblings only a few years older than themselves. Everyone was eager for a glimpse of the Cachis.
Noe had explained to us that the Cachis are Iruyans who make a special promise to the Virgin each year. For the festival, they perform a traditional dance that simulates the defense of the church. The dance features several colorful characters, all played by men: two "caballeros" wearing sombreros and white horse figures around their waists, a "torito" with a hat shaped like a bull, the hunchbacked and big-bellied "El Negro" or "El Rubio" who carries a baton and represents the outsider boss, and six figures in white masks--three males and three females wearing colorful shawls and long braids.
After each round of dancing, accompanied by men blowing on long horns, the Cachis chased each other around the church square and attempted to loop their ropes around each others' legs. They also pretended to go after little kids in the audience or pretended to whip audience members with their ropes.
After three rounds of dancing, the Cachis entered the church for a private ceremony. We hung around the square awhile longer to watch the pilgrims from surrounding villages trekking into Iruya carrying their own mattresses on their heads, bearing enormous bundles of llama skins on their shoulders, or hoisting whole racks of beef and bags of chickens up the hill. We could only imagine the feasts they were having that night!
We headed down the hill to check out the blue tents in the feria and explore the goods for sale. Our favorite finds: beautiful woven saddle throws that could also double as colorful mats and baskets brimming with blue Andean potatoes and ocas. We had a chance to try out the ocas for lunch when we ducked into one of the tents for some freshly prepared asado. We feasted on grilled chorizo, chicken, and ribs of lamb, as well as a delicious squash soup. The lovely Iruyan family also brought us a complementary picante de mondongo, a spicy intestine soup that was extraordinary.
That night, after the evening mass, everyone assembled again in the church square for a procession. The pilgrims from each village carried the beautiful altars they had built for the Virgin, the altars they had transported to Iruya on foot for several days.
Following the procession was the Luminaria. The Cachis performed their dance again, and then there was an enormous bonfire and fireworks.
At this point, it was nearing 11 p.m., but the night was only just starting. After the Luminaria was a serenata, or concert, in honor of the Virgin. The serenata featured traditional folklorico from Iruyans, as well as musicians from nearby villages. My favorite was Los Hermanitos, two very young gauchos (aged 9 and 14?) who played the guitar and sang a mean chacarera. In between the music, we also had the chance to watch traditional folklorico dances performed by local kids, as well as women dressed in beautiful Spanish dresses and men in white bombachos.
Around 1 a.m., even though the serenata was still going strong, the cold mountain air finally got the better of us, despite the temporary warmth my friends got from the sip of vodka that an Iruyan offered them! We trekked back up the hill to the Hosteria and fell soundly asleep.
Oct 23rd, 2008 | 04:30 PM
#7
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 0
A truly great report, Lil1210!
Angie should use it to promote our NW!
This is my LONG Salta trip report from a couple of years ago: http://tinyurl.com/jsgu8
Angie should use it to promote our NW!
This is my LONG Salta trip report from a couple of years ago: http://tinyurl.com/jsgu8
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Oct 23rd, 2008 | 04:56 PM
#8
Original Poster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 115
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Thanks, avrooster, for your kind words. It was fun reading your trip report! I also miss the quesillo con miel de caña and Salta's excellent Palau water!
susanna--I will try to include a bit about BA if people aren't sick of this long trip report by then...
susanna--I will try to include a bit about BA if people aren't sick of this long trip report by then...
about BA!!!!!
Oct 24th, 2008 | 11:04 AM
#11
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 115
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Day 5: Iruya -> Salta
In the morning, we decided to hike across the valley to explore the other side of Iruya. As we strolled down the hill from the Hosteria, we came across a little gaucho, maybe 7 or 8 years old, in full regalia--bombachas, red and black pancho, black scarf and sombrero--practicing his horseriding skills with his grandfather. The hilly cobblestone roads seemed to be giving him some trouble. As we continued down the hill, we came across a gaucha in a full-skirted pink and white dress riding a magnificent, sleek-maned horse. Something was up, we thought! When we arrived in the church square, we discovered it packed yet again, this time with dignitaries, including the governor and a senator of Salta province. Girls in school uniforms carried the Argentina and Salta flags, the police officers held their hands in full salute, and the gaucho club of Iruya stood with their hats held to their hearts as the national anthem played. We scrapped our plans and stayed in the square for the flag-raising ceremony and a barrage of speeches from the dignitaries promising to bring more educational opportunities to Iruya. The ceremony ended with all of the gauchos and gauchas galloping their horses down the hill, followed by the dignitaries who went to the feria to shake hands with locals.
We had a bus to catch around 2 p.m., so my friend and I headed back up the hill, stopping along the way to buy empanadas for our five or six hour bus ride. We happened upon a little artisan shop selling locally woven crafts, and I bought a super soft, super warm llama blanket for a great price. (It would come in handy on our 23 hour bus ride to Iguazu a few days later!)
Back at the Hosteria, the men at the front desk had arranged for two teenage boys to help us bring our luggage down the hill to the bus stop. We had inquired about a taxi, but all of the streets were closed to vehicles as a result of the festival. On our way down, we were simultaneously delighted and dismayed to stumble upon yet another procession--the biggest yet--winding through the streets to the church square. We were sad that we couldn't stay to see the whole procession but grateful to have caught a glimpse. This time there were even more gauchos on horseback in full regalia; even all of the horses were decked out in what we foolishly thought were angel wings (Hey, it was a festival for the Virgin!). Turns out they were guardamontes, white leather shields attached to the saddle to protect the horses from thorns. The boys had a good laugh at us for our silly assumptions!
Contrary to web reports we had read, buses from Iruya go not only to Humahuaca but all the way to Jujuy. We had purchased our tickets early at the boleteria across from the church for the Panamericano bus, so we were lucky enough to have seats. At least a dozen passengers stood the entire way from Iruya to Humahuaca--this on one of the bumpiest, most harrowing roads I have ever encountered! The bus stopped frequently to load up ever more standing-room passengers. Halfway to Tilcara, an elderly couple got on board, so we gave up our seats for them and stood the rest of the way back to Jujuy.
At the Jujuy bus terminal, we switched to a Flechabus for a 2 hour ride back to Salta and watched a bootleg video of Tropic Thunder. We were happy when we reached the Hotel Balcarce once again--after a long day of traveling, it felt like coming home.
In the morning, we decided to hike across the valley to explore the other side of Iruya. As we strolled down the hill from the Hosteria, we came across a little gaucho, maybe 7 or 8 years old, in full regalia--bombachas, red and black pancho, black scarf and sombrero--practicing his horseriding skills with his grandfather. The hilly cobblestone roads seemed to be giving him some trouble. As we continued down the hill, we came across a gaucha in a full-skirted pink and white dress riding a magnificent, sleek-maned horse. Something was up, we thought! When we arrived in the church square, we discovered it packed yet again, this time with dignitaries, including the governor and a senator of Salta province. Girls in school uniforms carried the Argentina and Salta flags, the police officers held their hands in full salute, and the gaucho club of Iruya stood with their hats held to their hearts as the national anthem played. We scrapped our plans and stayed in the square for the flag-raising ceremony and a barrage of speeches from the dignitaries promising to bring more educational opportunities to Iruya. The ceremony ended with all of the gauchos and gauchas galloping their horses down the hill, followed by the dignitaries who went to the feria to shake hands with locals.
We had a bus to catch around 2 p.m., so my friend and I headed back up the hill, stopping along the way to buy empanadas for our five or six hour bus ride. We happened upon a little artisan shop selling locally woven crafts, and I bought a super soft, super warm llama blanket for a great price. (It would come in handy on our 23 hour bus ride to Iguazu a few days later!)
Back at the Hosteria, the men at the front desk had arranged for two teenage boys to help us bring our luggage down the hill to the bus stop. We had inquired about a taxi, but all of the streets were closed to vehicles as a result of the festival. On our way down, we were simultaneously delighted and dismayed to stumble upon yet another procession--the biggest yet--winding through the streets to the church square. We were sad that we couldn't stay to see the whole procession but grateful to have caught a glimpse. This time there were even more gauchos on horseback in full regalia; even all of the horses were decked out in what we foolishly thought were angel wings (Hey, it was a festival for the Virgin!). Turns out they were guardamontes, white leather shields attached to the saddle to protect the horses from thorns. The boys had a good laugh at us for our silly assumptions!
Contrary to web reports we had read, buses from Iruya go not only to Humahuaca but all the way to Jujuy. We had purchased our tickets early at the boleteria across from the church for the Panamericano bus, so we were lucky enough to have seats. At least a dozen passengers stood the entire way from Iruya to Humahuaca--this on one of the bumpiest, most harrowing roads I have ever encountered! The bus stopped frequently to load up ever more standing-room passengers. Halfway to Tilcara, an elderly couple got on board, so we gave up our seats for them and stood the rest of the way back to Jujuy.
At the Jujuy bus terminal, we switched to a Flechabus for a 2 hour ride back to Salta and watched a bootleg video of Tropic Thunder. We were happy when we reached the Hotel Balcarce once again--after a long day of traveling, it felt like coming home.
Oct 26th, 2008 | 06:17 AM
#13
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
Lil1210;
I really celerate your got Noè, who is a really nice guide and driver, and with no doubt you was lucky to get him. instead of driving yourself I feel you really got the advantages of being guided and informed about the customes. By the way, Noe will be guiding some people I can not guide in Oct/Nov.
I am really happy your experience in this area was great...
Really nice review...
Lil1210, the best thing you can do is to let people know the beauty of this area...
Thank you so much for sharing your experience..
Warm regards,
Flintstones
I really celerate your got Noè, who is a really nice guide and driver, and with no doubt you was lucky to get him. instead of driving yourself I feel you really got the advantages of being guided and informed about the customes. By the way, Noe will be guiding some people I can not guide in Oct/Nov.
I am really happy your experience in this area was great...
Really nice review...
Lil1210, the best thing you can do is to let people know the beauty of this area...
Thank you so much for sharing your experience..
Warm regards,
Flintstones
Oct 26th, 2008 | 06:38 AM
#14
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
Finally, AVRooster... The NW is becoming more interesting than BA.. LOL!!!!(just kidding)...
Do not worry it is still the most important of Argentina. But Lil1210 got impressed with the scenery in this area.
Warm regards,
Flintstones..
Do not worry it is still the most important of Argentina. But Lil1210 got impressed with the scenery in this area.
Warm regards,
Flintstones..
Nov 6th, 2008 | 04:23 AM
#17
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 0
great report and great pictures. brought back many wonderful memories, and i wish we could be there again!
Before you get to the BA portion of your report, please finish the northwest first! Judging from your pictures, it looks like you haven't reported on all your locations.
Before you get to the BA portion of your report, please finish the northwest first! Judging from your pictures, it looks like you haven't reported on all your locations.
Nov 8th, 2008 | 10:33 PM
#20
Original Poster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Day 6: Salta
Back in the states, we had made reservations at Legado Mitico for our last night in Salta. My friend had fallen in love with the photographs on this boutique hotel's website, so we made it our one splurge for the trip. After breakfast, we said good-bye to the charming Gaston and Ariel at Hotel Balcarce and walked our luggage over to Legado Mitico, a few blocks away on Mitre.
Legado is, indeed, a "pequeno hotel emblematico," as its website advertises. Whoever planned its decor and selected its furnishings has exquisite taste. Each bedroom bears a unique name and design that reflects a historical figure or one of the indigenous peoples of Salta. Our room, El Wichi, was spacious and bright with exceedingly comfortable beds. The staff here was friendly and professional, though nowhere near as warm and welcoming as the folks at Hotel Balcarce.
After we checked in and made our selections for our personalized breakfast the next day, we walked to Vantage's offices near the plaza to book our trip to Cachi and Cafayate. Along the way, we stopped to do a bit of shopping. Our favorite finds were Verde Limon, a clothing boutique on Avenida Toledo, and Almandina next door, which sells cute llama tee shirts. On Avenida Belgrano, we also found a shop selling alfajores saltenos filled with dulce de leche and dulce de cayote (a pumpkin or gourd of sorts). The alfajores were a bit sweet for our taste but would probably pair well with some strong tea.
In the afternoon, we checked out Iglesia de San Francisco (stunning against the blue sky!), bought some outrageously fragrant strawberries from a vendor on Mitre, then headed to the Museo de Arte Etnico Americano Pajcha. This small museum houses the private collection of an anthropologist who has traveled extensively throughout South America to collect art and artifacts from different Andean peoples. The fascinating collection is clearly a labor of love, but the museum's caretaker was a bit too enthusiastic. He insisted on following us around and lecturing us even though we had declined the guided tour. We prefer to explore exhibits at our own pace, so it was a little frustrating to have him hovering over our shoulders the entire time. If, however, you're looking for an impassioned discourse on Andean art, he's your man.
We grabbed a quick bite at a local sandwich shop on Belgrano, then caught a taxi to the Mercado Artesenal on Avenida San Martin. We didn't find the crafts here to be particularly outstanding, but we picked up a few nice scarves and woven hats.
In the evening, we had dinner at Jose Balcarce, an elegant restaurant known for its alta cocina featuring local Andean ingredients. The pate they served with their bread was delicious, as was the llama carpaccio we had as our appetizer. I was a bit doubtful when my friends ordered it, but it ended up being the one dish that lingered longest in my memory from our three weeks in Argentina. Our waiter, who couldn't have been nicer, turned out to be a competitive cyclist who recently placed third in a ride from Salta to Cafayate.
After dinner, we took a taxi to La Casona del Molino, which Noe had recommended as one of the most authentic penas in Salta. Apparently, patrons here will grab guitars off the walls and spontaneously launch into songs. To our disappointment, the pena was closed--our biggest regret of the trip.
Back in the states, we had made reservations at Legado Mitico for our last night in Salta. My friend had fallen in love with the photographs on this boutique hotel's website, so we made it our one splurge for the trip. After breakfast, we said good-bye to the charming Gaston and Ariel at Hotel Balcarce and walked our luggage over to Legado Mitico, a few blocks away on Mitre.
Legado is, indeed, a "pequeno hotel emblematico," as its website advertises. Whoever planned its decor and selected its furnishings has exquisite taste. Each bedroom bears a unique name and design that reflects a historical figure or one of the indigenous peoples of Salta. Our room, El Wichi, was spacious and bright with exceedingly comfortable beds. The staff here was friendly and professional, though nowhere near as warm and welcoming as the folks at Hotel Balcarce.
After we checked in and made our selections for our personalized breakfast the next day, we walked to Vantage's offices near the plaza to book our trip to Cachi and Cafayate. Along the way, we stopped to do a bit of shopping. Our favorite finds were Verde Limon, a clothing boutique on Avenida Toledo, and Almandina next door, which sells cute llama tee shirts. On Avenida Belgrano, we also found a shop selling alfajores saltenos filled with dulce de leche and dulce de cayote (a pumpkin or gourd of sorts). The alfajores were a bit sweet for our taste but would probably pair well with some strong tea.
In the afternoon, we checked out Iglesia de San Francisco (stunning against the blue sky!), bought some outrageously fragrant strawberries from a vendor on Mitre, then headed to the Museo de Arte Etnico Americano Pajcha. This small museum houses the private collection of an anthropologist who has traveled extensively throughout South America to collect art and artifacts from different Andean peoples. The fascinating collection is clearly a labor of love, but the museum's caretaker was a bit too enthusiastic. He insisted on following us around and lecturing us even though we had declined the guided tour. We prefer to explore exhibits at our own pace, so it was a little frustrating to have him hovering over our shoulders the entire time. If, however, you're looking for an impassioned discourse on Andean art, he's your man.
We grabbed a quick bite at a local sandwich shop on Belgrano, then caught a taxi to the Mercado Artesenal on Avenida San Martin. We didn't find the crafts here to be particularly outstanding, but we picked up a few nice scarves and woven hats.
In the evening, we had dinner at Jose Balcarce, an elegant restaurant known for its alta cocina featuring local Andean ingredients. The pate they served with their bread was delicious, as was the llama carpaccio we had as our appetizer. I was a bit doubtful when my friends ordered it, but it ended up being the one dish that lingered longest in my memory from our three weeks in Argentina. Our waiter, who couldn't have been nicer, turned out to be a competitive cyclist who recently placed third in a ride from Salta to Cafayate.
After dinner, we took a taxi to La Casona del Molino, which Noe had recommended as one of the most authentic penas in Salta. Apparently, patrons here will grab guitars off the walls and spontaneously launch into songs. To our disappointment, the pena was closed--our biggest regret of the trip.
