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Trip Report 1/27 - 2/8, cancelled flights, lots of monkeys and an adventure to remember!

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Trip Report 1/27 - 2/8, cancelled flights, lots of monkeys and an adventure to remember!

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Old Feb 19th, 2008, 09:24 AM
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Trip Report 1/27 - 2/8, cancelled flights, lots of monkeys and an adventure to remember!

Well, now that I’m back and settled, here we go with the Costa Rica trip report.

Left on a Sunday AM, DH has a miserable cold, but he hangs tough! We stayed by LGA the night before for our 6:40 AM flight, missed the 5:15 shuttle by a minute, got over to LGA by 5:45. Upon checking in, found out AA had cancelled our 6:40 flight, we were too late for the 6:10 flight, not us exactly but the bags. Anyway, to make a long story short, we ended up on a 9:40 AM flight through FLL and there were first class seats available all the way, woohoo! This let us hang out in the Admirals Club at LGA, which turned out well.

Anyway, at that point, we were not going to arrive in CR until 4:15, so I called Tri-Color to tell them we would pick up the car on Monday and asked them to call the Orquedias Inn to arrange p/u. I also e-mailed OI from the Admirals Club.

Arrived safely, breezed through immigration and our bags arrived safely. Was at the OI by 5:30, in time for the last bit of sunset and cocktails. As we had been well fed on the flights neither of us was hungry, so we just hung out at the Marilyn Monroe bar and had cocktails and guacamole.

Next morning Tri-color picked us up to go their office to pick up the rental. All went smoothly and we were off to Arenal. Stopped at a nice little place for lunch along the way (next to a big touristy zip line/souvenir place on the road about 30 kilometers from Arenal). Food was good. Had a nice salad w/avocados.

Arrived at the Lost Iguana, the front desk recognized us from last year, that was nice. We had absolutely clear, beautiful weather the whole time we were there. Room was on the second floor with that fabulous view of the volcano. Saw the lava at night twice and the volcano was smoking the whole time we were there.

While in Arenal, the only tour we took was Cano Negro, which was great. Loved the Iguanas on the bridge along the way. Also saw caimans, four different kinds of kingfisher birds, along with egrets and other river birds, bats, spider and howler monkeys. We had a beautiful clear day for this too.

We took a drive to Tilaran one day, along the lake, had lunch at Toad Hall on the way back. Did not do the zip line this time, as DH was still getting over his cold and was not up to it. We did it last year, once was enough for me. We also walked the Hanging Bridges again, which we really enjoyed too.

Only had dinner at the LI, as we got too lazy each evening to drive anywhere. I really wanted to go to El Novillo, which btw has a big ceramic/plastic cow/bull in front now, so it’s hard to miss, but it was much easier to walk down the hill for dinner. Plus we just love staring at the volcano before and after dinner (where we had pre and post cocktails on the deck).

The staff at LI has gotten much better, the dining room staff was like a lost family after a couple of days. We enjoyed hanging out here very much.

After three nights, we left there and drove to the Peace Lodge for one night. Was a little peeved when we checked in and they told us breakfast was NOT included now, even though on my reservation it said it was. Argued a little, but they would not give in, so in addition to the expensive room, another $20 for breakfast. I think this is the last time we’ll stay here, even though it is an amazing place, I was not as impressed the second time around.

Had a late lunch at the Trout Bar, had too much food, so brought the leftovers to our room. We walked around a bit, saw the aviary, the new monkey exhibit, hummingbirds and then hiked the Fern trail by the Trout Bar, as it was too late to do the waterfall hike.

Went back to the room, had some cocktails, ate our leftovers with a bottle of wine and never left the room again till the next day. Neither of us was that hungry after the late lunch, plus I had some mixed nuts and luna bars for dessert!

Next day we did the jungle cat tour (in the rain, only rain we had) at 9:00, there was no extra charge, surprise, surprise, then had our expensive breakfast (which is good, just annoyed we had to pay for it). Packed and headed out around 11:00 am, we had a 2:30 Sansa flight and I wanted to have plenty of time for traffic and the stop at the OI as we were leaving a couple of bags there.

The drive went well, did not run into any trouble, we were at the OI by 12:20, so we had coffee, then took off for Tri-Color at 1:00, returned the car (they are very good), they also deducted a day’s charge, which I did not expect, since it was my decision to p/u the car the next day. It was nice savings. Off to Sansa we went, our 2:30 flight left around 3:30 (no announcements or anything, they are extremely disorganized!).

The Iguana Lodge had a taxi waiting for us and ten minutes later we arrived at the IL. Really liked the place a lot, very laid back, the cabinas are set back from the ocean, so you feel like you’re in the jungle but can hear the surf all night. The only thing I would have done differently would be to get an upstairs room next time. Maybe you can see the water from there. Also loved being woken up both mornings by a pair of Macaws in a tree above us!

We arrived on a Friday, which was pasta/salsa night so the guests eat at the restaurant, which is open to the public, instead of in the reception area (upstairs). It was very lively and a lot of fun! Food was very good too.

The next day we took nice long walks on the beach, hung out, read, etc. Had lunch in the restaurant (not included), which was very good and reasonable.

Dinner the next evening was in the lodge (guests only), Shrimp creole, rice, beans, avocado salad, all was very good. The Yoga group was starting to come in, so Zen was in the air J. We met a nice couple from Canada at dinner Fri night, so we hung out with them for dinner Sat. too.

The next day, Sunday, we were heading to BDC. I thought we’d have to take a taxi to their office in town for p/u, but they had arranged to pick us up at the IL, Frank was our driver. We were then supposed to p/u another couple at the air strip, but Frank found out all the flights were delayed two hours since the Int’l airport had been closed (we later found out due to computer problems).

So, off we went, up the windy, bumpy road, which isn’t really all that bad after driving to Monteverde last year. Forty-five minutes later, we are in paradise!

Arrived in time for my first (but not last) tuna melt, DH had the salad w/chicken (but no avocado which became a theme of this trip), then off to our cabina, Mariposa.

There’s not much more that can be said, than what’s already been said about BDC. We enjoyed our four days here very much. The cabina was great, loved the outdoor shower, we had monkeys every evening around 5:00 to coinside w/our cocktails (is there a theme here?). We met fabulous people, including 4explore (Beth), it was great to meet another Fodorite.

We also met a really fun couple from TX, which worked out well as we wanted to go on a Dolphin/Wildlife conservation tour and they shared it with us (in retrospect, we should have done it from IL, but it was too much planning for me at the time). Saw tons of dolphins, spinners and bottlenoses. Enjoyed our tour of the WC and yes, Lucy is still there. It was fun to hold her! Also enjoyed seeing a sloth up close.

The only hiking we did was the Golfo de Dulce trail, the first day was there. I do about a million lunges a week, so no problems for me, but it destroyed my husband’s thighs, so the only other hiking I did was going over the hanging bridge, through the tropical garden and then down to the driveway. We also did an early morning bird watch w/Carlos where we saw a lot of cool birds.

BDC was a great place to hang out and relax, you can do as much or as little as you want. One day we just hung around our cabina after breakfast, went on a little walk around the grounds, sat by the pool, read, ate lunch, sat by the pool and read some more, showered, changed, cocktails, dinner, etc. We all need days like that!

We also enjoyed the bar and whatever they season the popcorn with is totally addictive. I don’t eat a lot of popcorn, but this was delicious! The little apps before dinner were great too. We were there for an Italian night (very good), and a Mexican night, along with two unthemed dinners. All the food was very good and a nice variety. Just no avocados.

On the day we left, I had arranged to take the last Sansa flight at 5:00, as all we were doing was going back to the OI, having dinner, sleeping and leaving the next day. Plus, I wanted to stay at BDC as long as possible. I thought my luck was good when I asked Carlos about what time we had to be out of the cabina, turns out the people who had reserved it for the night cancelled, so we could keep it until 2:00, or stay one more night, which I had to decline as I had already arranged to stay at the OI and our winter clothes were there.

I had also arranged for another massage w/Jutta that AM (she’s very good, btw). The setting for the massages is amazing…..loved watching the monkeys! So, the late checkout gave us plenty of time to shower/change and pack.

Anyway, I digress. Frank takes us back down to PJ around 3:00, arrive around 4:00, check in and hang out. The Nature Air flight is late, but it comes in and leaves around 4:45. Our flight is late (so what else is new), comes in around 5:15 with the skies darkening right behind it. Our baggage is loaded, we get on board w/another couple from Germany and a single guy. Next thing we know, the pilots tell us it’s too dangerous to leave, (and the weather is not good in SJ either), but we’re going to wait 10 minutes, that goes by, let’s wait another 10 minutes. By now it’s dark (around 6:15) and they decide to cancel the flight, which is actually fine by me, do not really want to be flying in the rain on a 12 seater, single engine place.

Now, I have to give kudos here. The Sansa agent was very nice, found us (and the Germans) a room for the night ($70.00), not BDC, but it’s clean, there’s A/C and we’re just going to sleep. The Sansa agent drops us off. They guy who owns the hotel takes us a few blocks into town to a local place for dinner (which was also good), picks us up, wakes us up at 5:30 the next AM and takes us back to the air strip for the 6:00 am flight (the pilots were in the room next door). I did not think that was such bad service for $70 (dinner not included), even though the hotel for locals probably went for $30/night. I was just happy to not be abandoned in the middle of town in the dark. (I did not remember I had bought trip insurance till after I got home, duh).

Oh, one more thing, just to make it more interesting, there was a power failure around 3:00 am (thankfully I had the flashlights). The room got a little warm, but we survived. I was just happy to have a wake up knock on the door at 5:30.

So, we get back to SJ around 7:00, I had called OI and asked them to pick us up, they are nowhere to be found and the office does not open to 8:00, so we grabbed a cab ($15), found out later that Sansa had told them our flight doesn’t get in until 8:00. Anyway, they gave us the Dome room for a few hours (very interesting); we had breakfast, showered/changed and got ready to go back to cold.

I then called AA to re-confirm our 1:00 flight, it’s cancelled. We’re on the 3:10 though Miami, instead of getting home at 10:00 we arrive at midnight. Oh well, at least we have seats together. I guess our flying karma was not very good on this trip, but, nonetheless, we had a great time and enjoyed all.

CR is always an adventure and a very happy one at that!

Sorry this is so long, but if anyone has any questions, I would be more than happy to answer them.
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Old Feb 19th, 2008, 10:37 AM
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Welcome back! A truly enjoyable report! Love the details...hate to say it but I'm flying AA next month as well...I guess I'll be checking and rechecking for flight changes! Heck, I'll take 1st class though! Sounds like a good time just about everywhere.

Can't believe PL is now charging for breakfast! Raw deal.

At BDC the avocado sounds like the mango when we were there last year...something about the rains...they just weren't readily available, sadly. I know what you mean about that popcorn...my daughter still brings it up! We decided there's something coconutty in it.

Sounds like you met some interesting people too, including 4explore.

Ok, all I'm talking about is food...must be getting close to lunch.
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Old Feb 19th, 2008, 07:33 PM
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owlwoman--thanks for a great report! So glad you had a relaxing time at BdC. Sounds wonderful.

I, too, am very disappointed in the decision to exclude breakfast from that exorbitant price at Peace Lodge. That's such a poor PR move. They are finding that they will stayed booked without that little perk, so what not make a few more $$? That's not the kind of thinking that attracted us all to CR in the first place, that's for sure.

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. Good for you on the scoring the first class seats!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2008, 06:30 AM
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Thanks for the nice comments and all the planning help. Would never have found BDC without all of you! It is indeed a special plan.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2008, 07:32 AM
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Thank you Owlwoman.

I echo the sentiments about the way you were treated a Peace Lodge. Shouldn't take very many people from this forum choosing not to stop there, to turn that into a very expensive breakfast for the Lodge. Be sure to post a review at Tripadvisor.

Keith
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Old Feb 22nd, 2008, 11:00 AM
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That's really pushing it on the breakfast! Being as it is really a splurge I think it's tacky to exclude a simple breakfast - defintely post on trip advisor, maybe enough mention of it will get them to change it back!

Big at the mention of the tuna melt - I have yet to find one anywhere else as good (not to mention the atmosphere!) So glad you enjoyed your time at Bosque, such a special place & can't wait to get back there myself in May!

Bummer about flight out of PJ but sounds like it worked out reasonably well, good on you to still be able to enjoy your time there!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 08:48 AM
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Owlwoman,
Welcome back! Glad to hear that with all the flight problems, your trip was a success.

I guess I will have to find for myself what the tuna melt everyone is raving about is. I have to admit, I never had one – the combination just does not seem ‘right’, but I promise to try the one at BdC when we’ll be there next year.

I’m starting to wonder if we should change our mind about our last 2 nights at the Peace Lodge, but the hummingbirds, the waterfalls and the frogs are great incentives, even with the extra $20 (ok, $40 for the both of us) extra charge for breakfast. Is there any other place in the SJO area that has great birding, nice grounds and is close to the airport?

Did you have any problems driving? Due to all scams I read about, I think we would rather get transfers between our hotels (SJO to Arenal, Arenal to MA). What do you think?
Would love to see the pictures, too. Thanks

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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 11:58 AM
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xyz99 - I wouldn't switch out of Peace Lodge over breakfast. We stayed there last year and loved it. We're going back this year with the kids. I don't think they're hiding the fact that they're charging for breakfast at all. I know when we made our reservation back in October it was in big red letters right on the reservation that beginning in 2008 adults would now pay $9 and kids are something like $5 for breakfast For a buffet breakfast, it's still not bad - given that a place like Tabacon, where we also stayed last year charged around $20 I believe for nearly the same things. You don't have to have the buffet, they have very reasonable room service breakfasts that were never included in the room rate. The garden admission is still included and that's a great savings you get by staying there. The property is amazing. It's great fun, it's beautiful and it's also a bit of luxury in the cloudforest!

As far as the driving issues, we drove from SJ to Arenal, Arenal to Peace Lodge and back to SJ last year and had no issues with scams or other concerns. We took the recommended precautions and liked the flexibility having our own car gave us, especially in La Fortuna. We'll rent a car again, and this time drive from Arenal to Manuel Antonio as well.

I think you'll have a great time - don't give up on Peace Lodge - especially if you've already got it booked!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 12:54 PM
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I think the question about Peace Lodge isn't about the charging fro breakfast. It is about their not honoring their reservation that included it.

That shows poor customer service and is a signal that you might experience other bad things.

Which doesn't mean that I am tying to tell you to stay there or not. Just that as many people as possible should know about the circumstances when making their own decisions.

Keith
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 03:43 PM
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I agree that the Peace Lodge doesn't seem big on customer service. We're thinking of staying there again. We e-mailed several places and heard back immediately - two days go by and nothing from Peace Lodge. I think they just have a corner on the market, and they know it. I can't believe they've started excluding breakfast given how expensive they are. I think it's a bad move on their part, especially given the fact that your contract said it was included. I would feel taken advantage of.
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Old Feb 24th, 2008, 10:01 AM
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xyz -- I know, I'm going to have to try the tuna melt too! I read all the raves but never tried one, although my daughter had it 2-3 times. I'm assuming the tuna is fresh, and that's why it's so tasty. My fav was the curry chicken salad with papaya.

I think you should stick Peace Lodge too. The rates will probably just continue to rise to get it while you can! I'm sure you'll enjoy yourself and be happy you went.

We used Interbus transfers to avoid any possibilities of car problems. It was nice having someone else doing the driving.
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Old Feb 24th, 2008, 05:06 PM
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Hipvirgo,
Ohhhh, you mean the tuna melt is not made with canned tuna? I always imagined it with the canned kind…I’m an idiot.
The chicken salad sounds good – I’ll definitely try it. Thanks for all the other tips, and we’ll stick to our plans to spend the last 2 nights at the Peace Lodge. I need to see those hummingbirds…
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Old Feb 24th, 2008, 05:23 PM
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xyz, don't forget the nocturnal frog tour - it's definitely worth seeing too!
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Old Feb 24th, 2008, 05:42 PM
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xyz - I'm really not sure...I just assume it's fresh only because everyone raves about it so much. If it's canned Phil must have some "special" ingredient he throws in to make it such a coveted dish. LOL!

The hummingbirds are great! Make sure you go there for feeding time. I couldn't tear my daughter away from it. Having those magical little birds perching on your fingers is so much fun!
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Old Feb 24th, 2008, 05:55 PM
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Girls,
You are the best!

VolcanoG, absolutely, the frogs tour is on the list, and the waterfalls, and the birds.

HipvirgoG, when are you going back next? Whoever gets there first needs to find out the secret of the tuna melt. Owloman, do you know?
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Old Feb 24th, 2008, 07:31 PM
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I think the tuna is canned, maybe I will ask in May but then it wouldn't be a secret! I thinkit just has the perfect mix of ingredients, the right amount of onions, cheese and of course the atmosphere helps! What's funny is you'd think it's pretty simple but I just ordered one in a restaurant this past weekend and it was so bad I left it on the plate.
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Old Feb 25th, 2008, 06:17 AM
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Hi all,

I think the tuna melt is canned tuna, I agree w/Tully's assessment of the sandwich. Plus it's on whole wheat toast, which gives it a nice flavor. We also liked the Banana pancakes for b'fast, something we never eat!

Yes, Keith is correct, I was more peeved about not being told about the change in their policy, especially when my original reservation included it. I wouldn't change a reservation because of the policy. It is a fun place. I must give kudos to Leonardo, who took over our check in there, he also remembered us from the year below and was most gracious.

xyg, no problems with driving, I actually enjoy it. Pictures will be coming soon.

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Old Feb 25th, 2008, 09:18 AM
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Great trip report owlwoman. It sure makes me want to go back to BdC again soon.
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Old Feb 25th, 2008, 09:34 AM
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I think we're all so funny to have such a discussion about tuna melts! Ha! I wonder if Phil knows how famous they are?!?!

xyz -- I'll be there April 1-6. Hooray!
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Old Feb 25th, 2008, 09:43 AM
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When we went down last summer, I had a checklist of BdC food that we HAD to have: tuna melt, curry chicken sandwich, and banana pancakes!
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