hipvirgochick

Jill your photos are AMAZING! The plantlife closeups and color especially, but the wildlife too. I'm even more excited for our time at Miramar next year now! Partay!

Ummm...the only way I'm going to be the more brave one...is if I'm the more Imperials drank one.

Cam -- Save me! You're coming too aren't you?

shillmac

Next up, Rancho Naturalista and Tapanti National Park. Briefly. Yes, I can do it!

Rancho--about 15-20 minutes from Turrialba, overlooking Volcan Turrialba and the Tuis Valley. This is a beautiful property in an area with close to 450 species of birds. Some 250 or more right on the property.

This lodge is all-inclusive (superb food) and the cost is per person. What makes it a bargain for us birders is the twice a day birding included--on the many trails with one of the two outstanding guides--people who know what they are doing and are fun to work with. We birded with Juan Carlos this year and he took his job quite seriously. He was very disappointed that I didn't get to see a sunbittern after I commented that I would like to get it on my list. More disappointed that I!

We stayed in our favorite room in the lodge, #1, highly recommend. . .

Highlights beside the birding (and the 30 plus additions to my life list) were horseback riding with Chon high up to a gorgeous vista; also a hog nosed viper one afternoon while birding. Apparently the snake had been "resting" in the same spot for many days. We were inches from him, and I noticed my husband keeping an eye on him while I continued birding. Of course, several species just happened to be right there in that very spot!

After 3 nights we transferred by taxi over to Sanchiri Mirador Lodge, about 2 km outside of Paraiso, overlooking the Orosi Valley. This hotel gets high marks from us. We had free internet, good meals, a large and clean room with a fabulous view (day and night), and a bathroom with a huge shower. 2 nights and all that, including taxes and about 7 meals. . .$150. It was an awesome value and we will stay there again.

Our sole purpose for staying in this area was to continue the excellent birding at Tapanti National Park. It is a birder's paradise, and Juan Carlos had assured me that we would see a lot of new birds (for us).

In a phone call before we arrived, I had asked the owner of the hotel (the Mata family-owned for many years) to get a birding guide for our full day at the hotel. When we arrived he had it all set up for $80 for the 2 of us including transportation and entrance into the park. We were to meet with our guide after breakfast about 7:30 the next morning.

We met him, and off we went. Not 2 minutes into our transport to Tapanti, the guy mentioned to me that he frequently sees red cardinals in Tapanti. Uh, say what??? Well, let's just say that was a forewarning of what was to come. It was nice to have a driver to the park, but that was all we had. This guy had the Skutch book, but that was as far as it went. He knew nada, and more often than not, was asking me what something was. Together we figured out a few. Very few. Never once did he look down, like any birder knows to be aware of all levels, ground, mid-level, and above. He seemed to think all birds would be found up high, so he wandered along looking up, frequently so far ahead of us that we couldn't see him (because we had stopped to try to get a look at something and figure it out).

We learned during the morning that our "birding guide" also sells real estate, and he seemed way more interested in trying to figure out if we might be potential customers than in showing us birds. Of course, he really couldn't show us any birds, HE DIDN'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THEM! He did however, question us some about our finances!

The guy had a pair of cheap binoculars with one side smashed out, and he kept trying to hold them up to one eye to see something. It's a funny story now, but man, was I ticked. The park was beautiful and we will go back, probably taking one of the guides from Rancho with us--next year.

When we checked out the next day, I thanked the owner, told him how much I liked the hotel and would be so happy to recommend it to others. Then I told him how disappointed we had been in his choice of guides. Also that the man he had chosen had no business taking anyone's money and masquerading as a guide when he knew absolutely nothing. The owner nodded, but didn't respond.

Did we pay the guide? Yes. Should be have? Probably not, but we had agreed to the price and we did enjoy the park, so we just chalked it up as transportation (about a 30 minute drive) and park entrance.

The highlight of Sanchiri? Walking up and down the hotel driveway and seeing a few new birds. The morning we left we just happened to luck out and catch a glimpse of the very tiny Paltry Tyrannulet. I followed her with my eyes and kept her in sight as I got closer. We were able to see that she was feeding her babies in a mossy little pouch-nest, hanging from a branch and secured against another branch, having a side entrance.

This is where my new camera performed the best and over a period of 30 minutes or so I was able to get some really nice photos.

We paid $2 for a taxi into town and caught a bus for San Jose, another $2, that bus dropping us off on a busy street on the east side of town. We walked a way with our Weekender bags (ebags.com) on our backs, then grabbed a taxi to take us to Tri-Color on the Paseo de Colon.

We had made reservations for the airport office, but it made more sense to pick up here, so they accomodated the change for us and we were set. We drove to secure parking near the Plaza de la Cultura and spent a couple of hours walking around (we really like this part of San Jose) and enjoying a wonderful lunch. I pledged to myself that I would remember the name of the soda, but of course forgot to write it down. . .so. . .

Here we were in downtown San Jose, wondering where a good place to eat would be. I stopped a man on the street, obviously a Tico business man, and he instructed us to follow him. He walked us about a block and a half showing us to the restaurant and it was excellent. We had casados. . and I ordered a guayabana shake. Delicious! Of course, followed by ice cream at Pops. . .

Next up, Siempre Verde B&B (Doka Estate) and Peace Lodge. . .

Photos are now uploaded on Kodak Gallery. If anyone is interested, let me know at [email protected].

shillmac

Good Percy. . .I'll hop right over and take a look at your picks. And thanks for your pics! Hey--pretty clever huh?

Yes, ask Isabelle. . and she'll tell you.

Sure, hip, brave one drank one--or 6! Here kitty, kitty. . . LOL

Cam? Sure you're coming aren't you????? Partay! Did I SAY that??

glover

Great report, Shillmac! So can you tell some of the new birds you saw at Rancho? 450 species around there - wow, very impressive. We must go.

Sorry to hear about the one bad guide, though. Can appreciate your disappointment/annoyance. Such a let down given the high quality and enthusiasm of most of the guides we all run across in CR and elsewhere. I guess it's surprising though that this doesn't happen more frequently given the desire for folks to make $$$ however possible.

Please invite me to your pictures!!

tully

omg I'm rooming with partay animals, lol.

Percy you were very succinct, I narrowed down her choices to about 16 I'm not a good editor

Can't wait to hear more abour Siempre Verde

shillmac

Hi glover,

Some of our new RN area birds were the Bicolored hawk (he sure scattered a group of Montezuma Oropendulas when he arrived on the scene!); Hummers: Band-tailed Barbthroat, Violet headed Hummingbird, White-crested Coquette, Garden Emerald, Green Thorntail, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer; also the Rufous-tailed Jacamar; Cocoa Woodcreeper; Dusky Antbird; Dull-mantled Antbird; White-crowned Manakin; White-ruffed Manakin; Long-tailed Tyrant; Bright-Rumped Attila; Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher; White-throated Flycatcher; Black-headed Tody Flycatcher; Scale-crested Pygmy Tyrant; Yellow-green Vireo; Tropical Parula; Golden-crowned Warbler; Sulpher-rumped Tanager; Black and Yellow Tanager.

That's some of them (going through my list at a glance).

I saw the White-eared Ground Sparrow on the Sanchiri property. It was a neat little bird.

I think you'd really like Rancho if few people, gorgeous views, excellent meals, plenty of birding, and chill time appeal to you!

Tully, I'm good for about an hour of partay. . .after that, it's snooze time for me!

hipvirgochick

Shillmac -- Too funny! You know I'm all talk...right?!?!?

No way I could narrow it down to 4! So many great pics! I'll leave that up to Percy.

Great new birding list for you. Wow! Sorry about that guide though, you must have really had to bite your tongue to keep from asking what the *.*?

shillmac

Yes, I did bite my tongue for awhile, then I turned to my husband, while that nitwit had wandered on up the trail, and cut loose with the tongue. Uh huh, that's just about what I said!

Now, though, it's nothing but funny when I think about goofball trying to look through his one-eyed binoculars. He didn't seem to know how silly he looked, so that really does prove that he knew nothing about being a birding guide or he would have been embarrassed as heck.

Yes, yes, yes. . I know you're all talk. I knew it the minute you started spouting off about taking sandwiches for the puma! How's your neck?

hipvirgochick

LOL! I'm sorry but I can't help laughing as I picture it all...one-eyed binoculars and steam coming out your ears!

My neck is still pretty stiff...but getting better! And, I wore heels for the first time yesterday since I broke the ankle.

hipvirgochick

I'm still taking the sandwiches, I just don't drink that much.

shillmac

You got it exactly right. Every time he slapped those binoculars up to his face (one side dangled) I would look at my husband who had this big grin on his face compared to my snarl.

Did I know you broke your ankle as well? Same accident? Good grief, hip! Careful with those heels. . .no stilettos!

Okay, so we've established that neither of us will be big drinkers. No WONDER no one is jumping on the GTG offer! And Tully claims she doesn't imbibe all that much. . . .we're not appealing to the partay folks! LOL

shillmac

Chipping away. . .

July 31 found us back at Hotel Villa Bonita, reorganizing a bit. I had an early a.m. flight back to the U.S. and we had lots of coffee to buy and pack. . notably about 50 bags.

A taxi dropped me and all that coffee off at the airport the next a.m. at 5:00. for a 7:00 something flight. I had already purchased departure tax.

The flight back to Okla. City, through Houston, was smooth, and it was good to be back with family (more pointedly, good to see my granddaughter again and prepare for our journey together the next day!).
She was as excited as I.

Our flight back to Costa Rica left OKC at 8:00 the next a.m. The big coffee bag had been emptied and partially filled with her things, with plenty of room to spare for more coffee! And Little Chickys. . . .

She did wonderfully all the way to Costa Rica. Leaving Houston, we were blessed to share our seats with a young Tico returning home from a training for HP in Sacramento. He and Isa got along famously and she shared her snacks with him. After lunch we all slept almost the entire distance to CR.

This is where it got more interesting. As we neared Costa Rica, Jose, our new friend, looked out the window and commented we were over Lake Nicaragua, typical. In minutes, the plane began its descent, banked and the view out the window was clear to see. It didn't look familiar to either of us and we certainly weren't anywhere near San Jose. And we were a little too low.

The pilot then announced that, due to storms in the SJO area, we were going to put it on the ground at Liberia for a little while, until it was clear to continue. So that we did. We sat there for 1.5 hour and were discouraged from much moving around. People stretched, took a bathroom break, and returned to their seats. I got out our portable DVD player and popped in 101 Dalmations. Love that movie! Isa was ready to see "Pa" but was a trooper.

Finally we took off for a 30-40 minute flight to San Jose. We were in clouds the entire time, but it wasn't particularly turbulent. When we dropped below the clouds, we were practically on the runway, and the landing was quite something other than smooth! But we made it.

Jose, Isa, and I were the only ones in line (nationals and people with young ones) at immigration and he was a big help to us at baggage claim as I had the carseat to wrestle with. It was with gratitude that we both waved goodbye to him! Very bright, gentle, and helpful young man. He'll make a great dad.

After meeting up with "Pa" outside, stopping to visit with friends in their home, and picking up the rest of our luggage, we headed for Siempre Verde. Our 2:00 arrival had turned into a 4:00 arrival. It was 7:00 or later before we finally got on the road to Siempre Verde, about 20 minutes above Alajuela.

Siempre Verde is a wonderful little B&B owned by the Doka Estate family, Tres Generaciones coffee brand. We found our way there easily and we were greeted warmly and quickly shown to our room, with 3 little twin beds. It was perfect. A good night was followed by a delicious breakfast on the patio and a stroll through the coffee plantation. It is not the same exact property as the Doka tour, but very near. We paid $85 for the night and breakfast. Isa was excited when Maynor (the caretaker who had checked us in)took her to an orange tree and picked about 18 oranges for us to take with us. They were delicious and she asked for them several times a day.

En route to Peace Lodge, we stopped at Bosques de Fraijanes, just up the road, for a bit of playground time. It's a great little property in the village of Fraijanes. We had actually stayed there once in the little house, back before it became so popular with families on outings. On we went to Chubasco's for lunch--delicious. Isa was especially fond of the pumpkin (ayote) soup and the chocolate mousse with strawberries!

Check in at Peace Lodge was a snap. We had reserved one night standard and one night deluxe. The only glitch was when they tried to tell us breakfast was not included. I had noticed a couple of months earlier that on the website it stated that breakfast would not be included starting in 2009, so I had gotten a confirmation of that from someone in reservations. I pulled out the e-mail and they made a note of it and honored it.

Notes on Peace Lodge: Wonderful. Pricey, yes. Fabulous, totally. We received complimentary 30 minute neck and shoulder massage on the deck outside the reception area (they failed to tell us that last year!) and they were happy to do the complimentary massages both days we were there just for tips. It was great.

Upon arrival it was sunny and warm, about 1:00 p.m. Rare indeed. We headed straight for the freezing cold pool and gritted out teeth and got in. Invigorating to say the least. Why is it ice cold water doesn't seem to bother little ones? Any water that helps trout survive is too cold for people! The jacuzzi was welcome relief--time after time!

We had purchased groceries on the way, so had a really cool dinner of fig bread, gouda cheese, mango, oranges, cheetos, and chocolate. Oh, and hot tea. On the balcony. Pretty special! We weren't too hungry after a huge lunch.

That night we went on the frog tour--$10 each. It was excellent. Highly recommend, but hate that you can no longer hold the frogs!

Next a.m. the aviario, butterfly observatory, monkeys, hummingbird gallery, herpetarium, ranario (frog house), and waterfalls. It was just the BEST morning and we had a great time. The rain started as we were heading back in the shuttle. We went straight to our room, packed, and moved to deluxe where we had our bread/cheese/fruit/hot tea lunch again, followed by jacuzzi time on the balcony, movies in the DVD player, and a long nap. All while the rain came down. It was perfect. NOTE: The deluxe is nice, but so is the standard. Don't think twice about selecting the standard room. Very little difference. . .larger bathroom.

We had dinner that night at Colbert's, the French restaurant down the road. We enjoyed it as much as ever.

Next a.m. it began raining early. That's okay. . .we'd done everything we intended to do and had spent a few relaxing hours in the room and on the balcony with our binoculars. It isn't one of those places where you say, "Oh we're never in the room anyway". With the rain, frequently you are, so the over the top rooms are a real treat.

Next stop: San Jose. Are you kidding me, you ask? Hey, you guys. . .you KNOW I like San Jose!

We took Isa to the Plaza de la Cultura, ate at McDonald's (she's 3 after all and needed a Happy Meal!), and let her chase the pigeons on the plaza. Then we left the car in secure parking and took a quick taxi ride to the Museo de los Ninos. Children's Museum, used to be the old jail. It was marvelous, and we spent more than 2 hours there. . could easily have spent 3-4. Anyone with kids would enjoy this stop. I was afraid Isa was too young, but it would appeal to a wide range of ages, 3-10, I'd say.

So here we are again, 4:30, just now leaving town for the 3 hour drive to Manuel Antonio. At rush hour. What were we thinking???

By 5:15, we were past Alajuela and the rush and cruising toward the Atenas exit. Isa has fallen asleep and we settle in for a relaxing drive. Yes, it's almost dark, but we figure we'll get through the mountainous part before it's completely dark. . .and we do!

Wrapping up for tonight, just one more installment. Yea! we all say!!! We made it safely to Manuel Antonio, and were pleased to find the OMG bridges being repaired. They will soon be finished. Now THAT's progress. But it won't be the same, will it?

Later. . .

hipvirgochick

Wow! 50 bags? Talk about a caffeine high.

I always get so hungry reading these posts! Sounds like a wonderful time with Isa, less the delay in Liberia, ugh.

Smart of you to print out that 2009 notice for Peace Lodge. So they charge for the nocturnal frog tour now? I thought that was free before as well.

hipvirgochick

http://tinyurl.com/5ukz5w

Found this on the Africa forum.

See, he found his kitties!

shillmac

Wow--that'll be us with the puma, only with Imperials!

50 bags? You don't know HALF of it!

We did have such a great time with her. You remember Hunter the house cat at Peace Lodge? He slept with us one night last year. Isa couldn't wait to get back and find him, but we couldn't locate him for the longest time and didn't see any other cats either. We went into the public restroom and found his bowl in its usual place, so we knew he was around somewhere.

Everytime we'd be out and about we'd call, "Here kitty, kitty" but no Hunter. 2nd morning DH took Isa down to breakfast a few minutes before I was ready. When I got there they were sitting and eating, and Isa had a huge grin on her face. Hunter was under the table! We petted him awhile, then off he went into the green stuff. . .hunting, I guess!

parrmt

I am sooooo enjoying this wonderful report. What a time you had. Plus the pics are fantastic!
Plus Isa is so srikingly beautiful, how lucky are we G-parents to travel with our family?

Keep it coming cyber friend!!

I will probably recreate your trip next year. Planning is half the fun.

shillmac

Thanks, Toni. . .yes, it is a real thrill to enjoy a trip like this with kids again--and much more pleasant as a grandparent than as a parent! Not sure what all the dynamics of that are. . but know i is true! And we enjoyed traveling with our kids. .this is just better! LOL

tully

Jill too cool you got to see Hunter again. I know if I went back there I'd be wandering about looking for him too! Siempre Verde sounds like a sweet spot, so would you say 20-30 from the airport? Do they also serve dinner or just breakfasts? I think I remember a bonsai garden there too?

shillmac

I don't think we saw a bonzai garden, but there might be. We arrived about 7:30 or a little later, and I THINK only breakfast. Siempre Verde B&B, I believe.

It was a nice spot, though, nothing much going on, but for a night near the airport, it is a decent choice. Nice place for a few hours of wandering around and relaxing. The orange trees were pretty special, and the oranges SO sweet.

We were sort of glad Hotel Villa Bonita was full that night (they are staying booked up months in advance now--cool huh?) and could explore another place. Guess we could do that anytime. . .we just get in our rut sometimes!

hipvirgochick

shillmac -- I got deleted today (tully caught it first) on TA! I guess I made a rude comment about RoadAdvisor's rude comments and "someone" made a complaint and my posts were gone...How frustrating!

I do remember Hunter the PL cat. He was a sweetie. I love all the house dogs and cats at the lodges I've stayed...it's hard to leave them behind! Last trip there were a litter of puppies in the yard of a house in Puerto Jimenez. One of them had paralyzed hind legs and he was dragging himself all over to keep up with his siblings. I felt sooooo bad I had thoughts running through my head of how I could bring him home with me. I felt like it would just be a short matter of time for him.