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Shillmac's Costa Rica Adventure--Best Ever??

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Shillmac's Costa Rica Adventure--Best Ever??

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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 05:08 PM
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Shillmac's Costa Rica Adventure--Best Ever??

Or very close to it! I can think of only two things that caused us a little angst. . .the rest was, well, PURA VIDA!

Following the June 21st wedding of our daughter, a week of crash and burn, and a week in Mexico City on a wonderfully rewarding mission trip, our favorite time of the summer finally arrived!

July 17--Continental Airlines to San Jose through Houston. Very smooth.

Early a.m., next day, we flew Nature Air to Puerto Jimenez, where we were met by Sidnar (nickname Michi), the naturalist (and driver?) from Iguana Lodge.

As per our request, he stopped at La Esquina for our first Imperial of the trip. Never mind that it was 9:30 a.m., when it's time to toast Tully, Tully's gotta be toasted! It's tradition that I blame this one on her. . . hope you got a buzz, girl!

Believe it or not, our plans were to stay here just one night. Why? Because it was Friday night pasta/salsa night, our older daughter was arriving that afternoon for 4 nights, and she wanted to salsa!

We were greeted with a tropical, alcohol free drink (perhaps Sidnar has called ahead that I was already indulging), and were shown to our room. We had decided to save $$ and selected newly renovated Pearl of the Osa, now known as the "Club Rooms". They were quite impressive for $125 per night, beautifully appointed, with robes, lovely bathroom lights/fixtures. A bit on the small side, but a very good value.

After lunch, relaxing, and walking the beach with Bam Bam and Chester (2 of the resident dogs), we went back into town about 1:45 with Sidnar to pick up our daughter. Her flight was delayed (always causes me a bit of anxiety), but she arrived safely about 40 min. late and all was well. She was all smiles when she stepped off the plane! Francisco and Kevin from Bosque del Cabo were waiting there as well, so we told them we'd see THEM tomorrow and were on our way back to Iguana Lodge.

We spent the afternoon catching up and had a great time at the evening festivities held in the bar/restaurant below our room at the old Pearl. Iguana Lodge dining room doesn't serve on Friday nights.
We met Toby and Lauren and their son as well as Bam Bam and Chester (two of the resident dogs) who relaxed near our table. Ah, now we KNOW we're in Costa Rica!

This particular Friday, there was a HUGE crowd, and the party rocked on until the wee hours. We gave it up about 10:30, but not before DD got in a few dances!

Next a.m., we were booked for the Animal Sanctuary tour and had made arrangements for Bosque del Cabo to pick us up at the dock at 12:00 noon. We checked out and the taxi driver took us to the BdC office where we left all of our luggage.

Animal Sanctuary was phenomenal! We loved every second of it, holding the monkeys, especially Lulu, hearing the "talk", etc. The weather on the boat ride over (about 30 min) had been beautiful, sunny and warm on the gulf. Toward the end of our tour (thank goodness, no sooner) it began to rain and blow. Our trip back was quite miserable as we were riding into the rain and got soaked. My husband and I had our new Marmot rain jackets on (highly recommend), but DD had nada except shorts and a T-shirt that had a picture of a baby chick and said "peep show". By the time we got back, there was indeed a peep show! Poor thing! I was busy trying to protect cameras, etc. It was a LONG 25-30 minutes! Long! We visited the best we could and she laughed most of the way, bless her heart.

Kevin picked us up promptly, we stopped by and got our luggage, and then we were off to BdC and tuna melts! And dry clothes, which we got into quickly before eating!

Our days at Bosque del Cabo passed too quickly. She left after 3 nights, we stayed another 2. We hiked the Titi Trail repeatedly in hopes of the rare puma sighting, to no avail. In fact, didn't see as much wildlife this time, but we saw plenty. We spent a day on the Golfo Dulce Trail and the beaches Pan de Azucar and Backwash. We made wonderful and interesting acquaintances at dinner each evening, particularly one young couple from San Fran--on their honeymoon and at BdC the entire 9 days, surfing every single day!
We got massages from Alex who came up from Puerto Jimenez on Sunday evening, Jutta having the day off.
And we enjoyed Happy Hour visiting with Grevin and Francisco every evening.

The newly enlarged bar and lounge area was wonderful, but I noticed there were few people each evening, even though the hotel was full almost every night. Very nice improvement--that larger area. We had great pre-dinner chats with the folks who did show up--usually the same couples each evening. We love that part--meeting people from everywhere and swapping stories of the day. Our daughter met a family who lived 2 streets over from where she had lived 3 years ago in Corona del Mar, CA. Always the "small world" event!

We were a bit sad to wave goodbye to her after her 3rd night at BdC. We had all been sharing the standard cabina Sol (2 doubles), which had worked out quite nicely. We had had wonderful times together. Our experience on the Saino Trail had been a bit "tense" as it was covered in LOTS of dead leaves, and walking through them (and anything that might be lying beneath them) really unnerved her. It was on that trail, though, that we saw a Spectacled Owl (heard him first) and as we approached, he flew to a nearby tree. Also saw the Ornate Hawk Eagle, right in front of Sol first day. Got great views of him, but it was near day's end, and DH had gone on down the trail with my camera.

I think it was that night that we attended a 6:00 PowerPoint presentation upstairs in the library by Aida Bustamante (Friends of the Osa) and her partner from Panama (I forget his name and don't have my notes right here with me). It was on conservation and poaching and how they affect big cats. Very interesting--and troublesome.

Speaking of camera, I'll put in a plug right now for my new Panasonic DMC FZ-18. It was recommended on this board by parrotmt (did I say that right?) and boy, did it perform! Very pleased, particularly with the $279 price tag and the 18 optical zoom--a rare combination! Thanks again, Toni!

Not wanting to dwell on our empty nest feelings (happens every time one of our kids has to leave us again!), we immediately took off on the Pacific Trail and spent the better part of a gorgeous day down there. We walked a good distance to the left and spent time in the tide pools, sadly observing 2 injured pelicans walking about in the tidal pools that had obviously been caught offguard by the ferocious waves--and noticed vultures feasting on another. Harsh fact of nature. So wanted to rescue those 2. We also saw some really pretty fish in the pools, one being a blue fish with yellow dots--gorgeous. My "water" camera didn't capture it so well, though.

Then off we trotted (actually trudged) to the other end and the waterfall. My husband really didn't want to do this one as the sand in his Teva's was bothering him, but I begged, so off we went. I felt bad later as that hike gave him several nasty blisters. He has really wussy feet. But the waterfall was gorgeous as ever, cold and exhilarating. We didn't get to enjoy it long as a family of 5 clambered up the rocks and shared our time, but we got a quick shower, asked them for a photo (which didn't take) and started back to BdC.

Kim has asked us if we would do an interview for an online ad (don't know when it will be ready) at 3:00, so we barely had time to get back, clean up a bit, and meet the camera people. We did the interview together. What could have been a little nerve wracking was actually quite easy--very simple to speak of the great things about Bosque del Cabo--there are no shortage of those!

Let's see, we had one more day left and we spent it on a horseback ride with Miguel. Had a really fun time--he is such an "Osa man", doubt he's ever had shoes on in his life. He is as good as gold, showed us a caiman and a few birds here and there. Still just charges $35 per person, great deal. There have been few experiences in my life to compare to riding horseback along a beautiful beach! We did a lot of relaxing that afternoon, and I had a massage with Jutta early the next morning.

We stayed until about 1:00 that day, our checkout day. We were going back to Iguana Lodge, so no big hurry, and we caught a ride into town with another couple who were catching a flight back to SJO. Just before we left, a young couple from England came in from the Titi Trail with a FABULOUS photo of a puma stopped mid-trail looking at them. He said they had all of about 5 seconds of stillness, but man, did he get it captured. They were so thrilled and had hiked that trail for the 3rd time that morning before getting a lucky break. It was fun to see them so happy and excited--and made us even more determined to see one ourselves one day--we may have to just stay on that trail all one day with a packed lunch next June! For however many days it takes!

Gonna take a break now. . .coming next: 2 more days Iguana Lodge, Rancho Naturalista, and Sanchiri Mirador Lodge.
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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 05:42 PM
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Welcome back, Shillmac, sounds like another great trip to CR. Really enjoyed your report - sorry you didn't get a picture of that ornate hawk eagle - I'd love to see that. And wow a puma. .. for those other folks.

Looking forward to hearing about Rancho Naturalista.

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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 06:17 PM
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Thanks Glover. I enjoyed yours as well and hope to be picking your brain again in 2-3 years!

I actually attempted to edit a bit before posting (which I did), but somehow didn't get the edited version posted! We missed the shot of the owl because DH had gone down the trail. The hawk-eagle flew just as I got my camera into position! Danged!

I also intended to mention that we were really lucky with rain as it only rained one morning at BdC, and we spent the time relaxing and visiting, drinking coffee in the open restaurant. Very lucky in that regard, I think, for so late in July.

Also wanted to mention that Sidnar, who picked us up for Iguana Lodge, is a nephew to Eduardo, who used to be manager and birding guide for Bosque del Cabo. I'll tell later about birding with Sidnar (he was good), but he looked so much like Eduardo and was a really great guy with fun stories about his grandmother and parents and wonderfully realistic goals for improving his life in Costa Rica. You know how it is; those kinds of acquaintances that we make while traveling are just priceless. And add so much to the quality of one's time.
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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 06:30 PM
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Your mention of Friends of the Osa reminds me - what's the latest on that big proposed development we heard about last year - are they still fighting it or is it going forward?
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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 07:12 PM
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I asked Phil about it and he seems to think most of it has been quelled. Seems someone bought a big chunk of land (that chunk perhaps) with the intention of trying to protect it from such.

Also, the new owner of Lapa Rios (not sure if that is official yet or not, but is imminent) was at Bosque del Cabo (staying there I think) for a day or two while we were there. Philip, the naturalist, told me that this guy is quite vocal about his intentions (and that of his partners) to protect the Osa. Philip thought that remained to be seen and was not entirely convinced there would be follow through.

That said, I asked Phil, the owner, if the government was still pushing for an international airport at Palmar Sur. He said yes, and that it would probably be coming soon. One of the stipulations was that Palmar Sur was to have a decent hospital in place before an airport could go in. That has been accomplished, so Phil seemed to think the airport wouldn't be far behind.

If that kind of easy access happens, we all know the Osa will be flooded with people and more development will likely follow quickly.

Frankly, I don't see how any of it is going to be avoided. It seems inevitable.
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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 07:35 PM
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Oh, you guys are all so crazy wanting to see a mountain lion in the wild! I will happily go my entire life without seeing one. Everytime one is around here it's just bad news! The latest was this one that snuck into these people's house WHILE THEY WERE HOME AND SLEEPING and dragged their 60lb sleeping dog off of their bed and killed it. No thank you!

Hey, and I would be really interested in buying a few acres of land in Costa Rica to keep it from being developed. Does anyone know how one goes about doing that?
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 03:57 AM
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shillmac, welcome back! I am so happy when I read your report. Your love for CR just shines through! Oh, a puma sighting - I wish you guys had gotten to see it. I would love to see one some day!

Monica, one of our guides was telling us about pumas in CR, and she said, "Ours aren't like yours; they don't attack people." Isn't that funny? She said there has never been an instance of a person being attacked in CR. I'm not sure if that's the case or not, but she was giving a night tour in Monteverde, and they came across one in a tree, and they all just stood around taking pictures of it. Maybe the ones in CR have so much to eat that they don't bother with people!

shillmac, will your interview be posted on the BdC website? I'd love to see it. I'm sure they loved having you involved! Looking forward to more...
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 04:43 AM
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Thanks Volcano Girl. I do love it, dearly. I don't mind a little development, but it really bothers me to see such a gorgeous place being exploited by people who DON'T care--about the environment, about the Ticos, or about anything but their bank account.

I have wondered the same thing about the pumas. We have "mountain lions" here in Oklahoma, and while there are no reports of negative contact between them and humans, none of us particularly would care to come across one out in the wild.

I do try not to let my "pura vida" rob me of common sense. In fact, it crossed my mind while we were there how all of us would feel about the trails IF there were to be a tragedy of that magnitude on BdC property. Wouldn't it changed EVERYTHING? Or would it? Quien sabe??

Somehow I think the interview will be posted on another website, but am not sure. We really didn't ask about details or talk about it much. And I had almost forgotten about it until I started posting and thinking back on our time. Kim said she would let us know.

The couple who did it were really nice and they do tours into Corcovado out of Lookout Inn in Carate. We spoke with them at length about what that entails (2 nights in the parking, basically camping) and we will probably work that into our itinerary for next year. The price was reasonable and it is something we've wanted to do for some time. We are planning about 2 weeks in the "deep south" next year to include Pavones as well. Anyway, they were very personable, and she gave me a card.

Monica, we are interested in that as well in the Turrialba area and are looking into an offer that we have had. The Osa is WAY out of our price range! Everything is, actually, NOW; but we'll find a way if we can in one of the less $$ areas. We are kicking ourselves for not doing it when we first considered it 5 years ago. What a HUGE mistake.
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 05:18 AM
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shillmac - thanks for another great detailed report. These details (from everyone) were such a great help in planning our trip last year. Can't wait to return.
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 05:41 AM
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Noticed you were back and was wondering when we would get your report! Fun to read about your adventure! Am sure the bar won't be quiet next June during the GTG at Bosque.
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 06:48 AM
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Jill, I have been anxiously waiting for your report!
So far....wonderful!

It was on the Saino that we saw the spectacled also, isn't he a beaut?
And the Ornate hawk eagle was in front and back of C. Blanca. Carlos was telling us that it is a new visitor to BdC. I am glad to hear he /she is still there.

But Oh to see a Puma! Did you tell the couple to post the pics somewhere?

Wow, online ad for BdC and a mtg to save the Osa. What a trip!
I too always feel a little empty when our kids visit with us on vacation and then leave. You always worry.


I am soooo glad you love the camera. I can't believe what great pictures it takes. You took a leap of faith ordering it on my rec. But i knew you would love it!

I am looking forward to the rest and your "Roy" fotos! Toni
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 07:35 AM
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Welcome back, sounds like you had a great time. Glad you got to experience pasta/salsa night at the IL, we got quite a kick out of it.

Looking forward to the rest of the report.
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 10:21 AM
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Thanks everyone! Toni--it wasn't a leap of faith at all. You said it, and I didn't think twice about it. I actually ran into someone who had the exact same camera (in fact, showed me a few tricks since I hadn't had time to read up on it--just took it out of the box and started clicking!). They were equally pleased and had paid considerably more. Sorry I didn't get your screenname quite right. Heck, I can't even get MINE right! LOL

janenicole--I think you're right! Perhaps we should have a March/June contest!

dfr4848--I agree and still learn tons on here as well--and rely on posters heavily when researchers. It's a great way to plan--and pick up a few new friends in the bargain!

owlwoman, we actually got in on that 2 Friday nights in a row (unintentionally). Great entertainment! More tonight--maybe!
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 11:01 AM
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Wonderful report, shillmac....I am so delighted to stumble on it today.
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Great report! I've been wondering about Iguana Lodge, sounds nice! I love hearing about your adventures, you always seem to have such a great time! I'm looking forward to hearing the rest....

Shell
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 12:30 PM
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Hi shillmac! Wonderful hearing about all your travels as usual. Sounds like a great trip so far. Love your toast to tully. No doubt we'll planting ourselves on Titi. With boxed lunches...maybe the smell would attract them? Were the monkeys in hiding? Is the new sanctuary up and running or are they still operating out of the old place? Did you choose your bedroom at Miramar? Hee! So many questions!

Looking forward to the rest!
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 12:51 PM
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Not sure we want to be holding the food that attracts the pumas, hip!

(I hope the other Fodorites don't look back at the post a year from now and shake their heads at the memory of us and our famous last words!) LOL

We did NOT choose our bedroom, but perhaps it should be the most distant, so you young girls won't feel as if you are being chaperoned! LOL! You know, the one that is attached by that farthest walkway. I did notice that TWO of the bedrooms have private balconies, so Tully needn't worry about having to get her dibs in on one of them QUITE so early! It is only the bedroom on the right as you walk away from the living area that does not have a private balcony and ocean view.

I guess the new sanctuary was not up and running. Hard for me to tell since I have no basis for comparison. We really were glad we went though. It was the perfect thing for us to do after that one night at Iguana and BEFORE going up to Bosque del Cabo. Thank God that logistical change occurred to me about 2 weeks before we left as we were planning to go there from BdC.

Good Lord, I think I've posted twice. I accidentally hit preview, but don't remember what I did after that. Sorry!

Thanks cmcfong and shelly. Always enjoy yours, too, of course! Are we all a wonderful mutual admiration society? LOL! I think we have all resigned ourselves to the fact that, if we can't be on vacation all the time ourselves, second best thing is reading about everyone else's!
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 12:58 PM
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Okay, my bad. No double postings. I guess I did something right! Always surprises me. . .
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 01:31 PM
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Thanks for sharing your trip notes, shillmac: my itinerary list is growing just from reading your posts and the other travelers on this forum!

Would you mind sharing more details about your camera and where someone can get one? I'm in the market for a new one and I hope to bring it with me when I go in October.

Thank you again!
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Old Aug 20th, 2008, 02:52 PM
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Sure, but parrmt could probably tell you more. She has used the same camera for years. I can tell you that it is black, lightweight, very user friendly. Has some very nice play back or photo review features. The self timer feature is very simple to use. The 18 optical zoom is wonderful and usually comes with a much higher price tag.

I ordered mine from a company called www.buy.com. Here is the link for the camera I ordered:

http://www.buy.com/retail/usersearch...mp;display=col

The Leica lens is very nice. Telephoto photography is quite simple with this camera. The flash is adequate for most photography situations and there is not a dock for a separate flash attachment. This could be a drawback for some, but I would prefer the stronger flash without having to deal with an extra piece of equipment---suits my purposes, anyway.

For the black camera, the cost is now $299, I noticed. Still a great value. I also ordered a 2GB card to go with it. If I had it to do again, I'd order an extra battery. The battery charger charges quickly, however, and is included.

Glad to be of help. Will post a few pics as soon as I can--or a link to my uploaded photos.
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