Just returned from 12 days in Peru. Everything is pretty great except for Lima. It is frightening. You really have to go through Lima to go most anywhere else. I think if we ever go to Peru again, we would try to arrive late (most flights arrive after midnight, and our arrival was delayed until 1:30 a.m.) and try to fly out very early to the next destination and just stay at the airport. During the same time that we were there some bandits attacked an entire tour bus that was near the airport. They shot an elderly lady and when her husband tried to assist her, they bashed his head. Both were hospitalized but expected to recover. They took everything from all of the passengers.

We did have a problem ourselves as our guide and transfer were not there immediately when we arrived. Several unscrupulous individuals posing as guides and drivers tried their best to tell us they were waiting for us. They told us that our driver's car had been in a wreck, etc. etc. They surrounded us and were very intimidating. Even the security guard was in on it. We knew the name of our hotel (they could not name it) and that they should have vouchers, as well as the fact that we travel quite a bit, so they were not successful. We felt very lucky that we were not tricked. I think many people could have been taken in however. We were also told of some tourists who tried to just take a cab to their hotel and were robbed at gunpoint by the so called cab driver. Anyone can be a cab driver. No license or permit is required. If you are staying in Lima - be sure and have someone meeting you and escorting you to the hotel. The tour companies are aware of the danger and are just sick about it. They told us many similar stories.

But...once you get to Cusco and especially to the Sacred Valley it is wonderful. We particularly loved our 2 nights in Ollantaytambo (town, people and ruins) and the weaving villages of Willoq and Patacancha nearby. It was like going in to a time machine. People live the same as they did centuries ago. We were very lucky to see them paying homage to Jesus and Mary as they walked their statues thru the town one evening. We went to Urubamba and went paso horse back riding. While it was very beautiful there - we were so glad we overnighted in Ollantaytambo. It was an experience I felt so lucky to have had. Since we were only 1/2 a block from the train station, not only was it convenient, but our trip to Machu Picchu was only 1 1/2 hours long from that point. A baby llama was born at our hotel while we were there. We stayed at Pakaritampu. It was quite nice for the most part. Good location, very clean with a decent breakfast. The only complaint is that while the decor is beautiful wood - it really lends itself to be very noisy. Every door that opened and step that was taken was heard. I think requesting a room on the 2nd floor would really help.

We then went on to Machu Picchu which of course is a wonder of the world and is amazing. Very crowded though - and this is not their busy season. We stayed at the Machu Picchu Pueblo and it is a good as everyone says. Food, service and especially accommodations. We did the nature, bird ( we were lucky there too and saw 2 females and one male Cock of the Rock) and orchid walks and saw the specked bears as well. We later found out from our guides that they might not be too honest about being a rehab center for the bears. They are really something more of a zoo attraction I believe. After we returned home we saw a Jeff Corwin with the same bear - Pepe, that was there when we were there. The show said it was due to be released very soon and was dated 2003. You could also stand within 2 feet of say 20 hummingbirds of 5-7 varieties - there are so used to people.

We then spent 3 nights in Cusco. Much has been written about Cusco - so will just reconfirm Fallen Angel (for the restaurant's uniqueness as well as the food), Chez Maggie and Inka Grill as great restaurants. We felt it was really worth it to stay at the Monasterio. You just don't often get a chance to stay somewhere like that. The breakfasts were out of this world and the location was so convenient. Went to many ruins, all of the museums and churches and they are all worthwhile.

Next stop - the rainforest. Our 4th trip to the jungle. This was definitely our most amazing experience. We spent 3 nights at Heath River Lodge (in July it moved across and down the river to a new location only 5 minutes from the macaw clay lick) and one night at Sandoval Lake. The new Heath has hot water. At Heath they have different blinds in which to view birds and animals. Two mornings we sat in a very comfortable blind, while eating breakfast and watching over 100 birds at a time visit the clay lick. 3 kinds of macaws, 3 kinds of parrots and various other beautiful birds. They even had a toilet! Because you really spend an entire morning watching. Different birds show up almost on schedule throughout the morning from 5:30 to about 11:00. Then...they also had a mammal clay lick. While we were there over 100 Peccary's came. (wild pigs) It was exciting and frightening at the same time. You knew if you were just 3 feet lower they would have eaten you! We also went out by boat at night Cayman watching. Saw many as well as night birds and bats. Fun and scary. Since it was just past the end of the rain season, we made the trip at about 4 hours in and 4 3/4 (against the river flow) out. It was really quite pleasant with alot of wildlife sightings. Many Capybara, white Cayman, birds and a quick view of a deer. Saw only a few snakes, an agouti, 2 kinds of monkeys, a wild rabbit that was rescued just as a snake was about to get it, he ran between the legs of one of the workers for safe haven and many great bugs!

Sandoval is very secluded. First you walk 3 kilometers thru the mud to the most pristine, heavenly lake I have ever seen. No motors allowed - so they row you across the lake - where you will find 3-4 kinds of monkeys, Caymans, many birds, and 7 endangered river otters. They are huge - 5 - 6 feet long. We were so close that we could not only see them clearly munching fish, but we could hear them chomping on the bones. Again, night viewing of Cayman - a different kind this time. This is a special place. Saw a few baby macaws there too. Accommodations at both are adequate, but nothing fancy. It was really kind of funny to be at the Montasterio one night and in a hut with no electricity the next. Sandoval has limited electricity and hot water. Food at both was good, but not as good as we have previously had in other rain forest lodges. Rubber boots we given to us for our stay. Surprisingly they even had some to fit my son's size 13 foot. Heath is separate raised huts and Sandoval is rooms all connected. So your neighbors wake up call becomes your wake up call - even if it is 1/2 hour earlier. You really could hear everything if this bothers anyone. This place is so amazing though - that most anything can be overlooked just to be there.

We had private guides and tours throughout. It was really only a small amount more than going in a group and much better for us to be able to choose where and how long and not to have to shop. All were excellent. We felt they allowed us to get much for out of our Peru experience and they were always able to make everything run so smoothly. They were with us about 1/2 of each day and the advise they gave us for the rest of the day and the evening was invaluable. Believe me they were handsomely tipped! While in the rain forest the guide was really with us at all times. Our first time with a woman guide in the jungle. Our driver Manual was the driver for the actors while they filmed Motorcycle Diaries and he showed us many locations where they shot the movie. Now I must watch it again. We also had a nice short tour in Lima to the churches and Gold Museum before we departed. Well worth it. We were in a monastery when the bells first rang announcing the Pope's death. Many were gathered in vigil. It was kind of surreal. I am not great at these reports, but really feel I owe it as I get so much good info from this site.

Interesting report.

Indeed, there are many ways to get 'taken' at Lima airport.

It is unfortunate that crime in Lima is getting to be such a problem. I was there a year ago and found Lima to be a wonderful city. The Plaza de Armas is much more impressive than Cusco's. Also the museums in Lima are fascinating. The Larco museum is not to be missed in my opinion.

We are museum addicts ourselves and wanted to spend more time in Lima, but were unable to because of time constraints. We also found the Plaza de Armas to be very beautiful, especially with all of the flowers (they even had petals arranged in designs on the ground)for the Pope. Most of the Larco Museum has now been moved to the MAP in Cusco and we viewed it there. You are right about it being fascinating.

I am in the process of putting together a trip to Peru in August, can you tell me which travel agency did you use? I'm also looking at having private guide and tours, any information will be appreciated.

Sorry to say that I cannot recommend the travel agency here in the US that we used. Way too many mistakes. He forgot to buy our airfare in early November as promised and by February when he told me he never bought them, we lucked out and got the last seats on the plane for one of our segments. Then, on another he booked the wrong date + had our name misspelled. Luckily I was on him by that point. There were a few other issues too that I won't take any more time up for. Inkanatura in Peru was great though. If you can find a US agency here that works with them. They do have a website and you can go directly through them in Peru I think - if you are comfortable with that. For our next trip to Vietnam we have chosen to go that route. It makes us a bit nervous to send money overseas, etc. - but they are so efficient and less expensive too. Time will tell if it was a good decision or not.

Connette, When you were in Lima, which tour company did you use for your city tour? In mid May we'll have a couple of days on our own in Lima, and was wondering if you linked up with them when you got to your hotel, or was it set up with your tour company beforehand?

We are using a US based company for most of our time in Peru, and so far are very pleased with the arrangements. (I hope it's not the one you said you used) However, at the end our pre-arranged trip we have two free days in Lima before leaving the country. On one of those days we're interested in a city tour.

Thanks for sharing the airport information. We'll be extra cautious in waiting for our transfer person as we too arrive late at night. Kathy

Hi Kathleen,
Everything was pre-arranged thru Inkanatura. The guide was very good and had been a guide for many years. They are licensed, etc. I saw the name of your company on another of your posts. Not the same one we used. Can they arrange a Lima guide? I think they must be licensed so should be good whoever you go through.

Hello,
Thanks for the great tips.
Can you tell me how you booked your private guides?
Did you have a private guide in Machu Picchu?
thanks,
Ken

Thank you Connette, I think we're going to wait until we arrive in Lima to schedule a tour, since we're still working out what we want to see. Kathy

Thank you for your great report. This is our first to Peru. Several questions; in talking with visitors have you heard of reactions to the two different types of malaria prophylactic medications. We are arriving 9/20 doing Lima,Cuzco,Sacred Valley, Machu Piccu and Amazon for 10 days. Any special suggestions on clothes; we really want to do carry-on's only. What do you think. As far as money, do most places take Visa. Your comments on Lima airport caused me some concern. Is there something special we should request from our travel group. Would appreciate any help; we have been hoping for this trip for over 40 years.

Thank you. As far as packing - I am not known to be a light packer??? But, with the differences in climate it might be hard to go carry on. We love those zip offs and that would sure help. Light weight for the jungle and maybe layers where it is a bit cooler would do the trick.

I am not sure of the type of malaria we used - but while my son and I did fine, my husband had severe problems with his bowels and we are really sure it was the medicine because it continued after we returned until the minute he was able to stop the medication. We HAVE to find something else for him for our upcoming trip to Asia. Yikes.

Our problem (and others) in the airport really stemmed from no one being there to meet us. If your tour people do not fall asleep waiting - as ours did because of our flight delay - you should be o.k. Now the street that the bus was attacked on is the one all of the tour buses and everyone uses to get to the airport. I really think you are more incognito in a car than a bus. Hopefully these types of attacks have stopped.

Visa was widely accepted in larger establishments. Only small family restaurants did not take Visa and they only accepted Peru money. But the bill for 3 people eating would only be $10-15.00.

Our 24 year son is traveling to Peru for 3 weeks with a group, G.A.P., leaving next Sunday. He is being met at the airport and taken to the hotel. Your report is very useful and any more such advice would be greatly appreciated. He has traveled alot with us, but never on his own. Thanks.

Your report is great. We are putting together a trip like yours. Do you think it will be to rainy to go to Peru in mid-April?

Not by our experience - but of course the weather can be unpredictable. I know we could not book flying into Manu in March, because of too great of a chance of rain making it impossible to land. But it is really rainy there.

toping

Dear Connette:
The safety issue concerns me as we are traveling to Peru in March with our 9 and 11 year old children. We like to take adventure trips, but want the kids to be safe. Your intineray looks very interesting. I have contacted a number of tour companies (we usually do it on our own) since I know there are certain areas that we will need a guide. Can you tell me what tour company you used?

Thanks for you help and your detailed account of your visit.
Beth

I really hate to say negative things about agencies, but the one we used really did not have it together - peruperu. Many mistakes that would have ruined our vacation if I would not have caught them. I certainly could not give them a recommendation. Inkanatura is the Peru ground operator and they are great. So I would say find an agency that uses them in the U.S. or go direct with them in Peru. One I know of is Tropical Nature. Google and find them on line and call them.

I agree with your observations regarding Lima.We arrived in Lima when on a cruise and spent two nights here.We were advised by the captain not to leave the ship at night and not to go out unless on recognised organised excursions.Some of the ships crew chose to ignore this advice and were robbed at knifepoint as were some passengers.
We took a shore excursion with the ship and noticed that small shops did not allow access.You had to point through bars what you wanted and it would be passed to you.Also where there were cashpoints there were armed security officers guarding each one and the shopping mall had armed guards on the gates in and out and throughout the complex.Ecuador was similar and police often stayed very close to tour buses for security.
Lima was certainly an experience and without doubt was frightning as crime is rife.
Take care,be vigilant and stay with organised tours

I emailed this report to my sister. She has asked me to say how much she enjoyed it and can answer some of the guide questions/trip questions that have been asked.Here is her answer.
The company that myself and my friend used for the our Cusco/ lima /inca
trail trip was Charity Challenge. I cannot fault them in any shape or form
every part of the trip was amazing, food, accommodation, transfers, camp
sites, etc. The guides and porters were all absolutely incredible and very
passionate about there country, we did this trip in April of this year and
stayed over in Lima with absolutely no horror stories or problems other than
all our luggage was left in Amsterdam (not anyone s fault other than
Amsterdam!!!!! The guides that Charity Challenge used came from AGotur, and
the man is named Americo Aparicio Lopez, his e-mail address is
[email protected]. I could not recommend anyone more
passionately other than Americo, Quon Carlos and the amazing Dr Fernadez.
They made our trip one of the most memorable moments within my life time,
the people, place and the country are incredible.

As for illness myself and my friend took all the jabs recommended but the
one thing that we were not prepared for was altitude sickness. Read all the
books took it all in but never fully understood how much it can floor
you!!!!! Take all the advice that the locals give you and keep as fit as
you can, coco leaves are really good too. But don't take it lightly.

Peru is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited and would
jump to do it again but I think that it helped that Charity Challenge and
Americo had it all so well organised.