Our Quick Puerto Vallarta trip Restaurants and Activity Report
Sep 18th, 2005, 12:59 PM
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Our Quick Puerto Vallarta trip Restaurants and Activity Report
Please see my other recent post for a review of our hotel, La Jolla de Mismaloya.Time of visit: 10-17 Sep.
Arrived PV 4pm 10 Sep without a hitch, but up since 3am PST. Taxi took us through town so we got a good orientation of what we had been reading about. Got a late lunch, early dinner of pool side heavy appetizers at the hotel, then crashed for the night.
Our first activity was Vallarta Adventures trip to Las Marietas. We love to snorkel, and we knew that PV is not known for its snorkeling, especially this time of year due to runoff. However, several told us Las Marietas was far enough out, and known as the best snorkeling spot in Bandaras Bay. Well, not this time. Water very green and only couple feet visibility. The crew of the boat tried their best to entertain us, mostly serious snorkelers and some divers. They took us all to a beach between Yelapa and Majahuitas for an hour of beaching. But even there, the snorkeling was not good. The dolphins were swimming around in the water muddy for miles out from the runoff of the river Ameca. They were not interested in the boat.
The thing that saved the trip from a total bust was the return. Blue Footed Boobies would soar along with the boat at eye level from the second deck only a meter or two away. They kept their eye on the bow spray, as the boat kicked up small fish that skittered out away from the boat. Seeing these, the boobies would dive into the water, come up with the fish, and soon be back beside the speeding boat again. Absolutely fascinating to watch. Like the Discovery Channel. Nature is beautiful.
On Tuesday, we did the Swim with Dolphins up at Nuevo Vallarta. OK, don’t get on me about dolphins in captivity. We did it anyway. And thoroughly enjoyed it. In the pool with the dolphins. Broke up into groups, our group of 8. In life vests, pool 15 feet deep. 2 dolphins swam around us, we pet them, feed them. They do little tricks with us, then we ride them for a short distance. It was great fun. We bought the $40 DVD and just got through watching it. We are glad we did it and glad we bought the DVD.
That’s all for the organized activities. We came down here to R&R. That was enough. Rest was serious pool lounging.
Restaurants: Since we were there, one night was dinner at Il Boccaccia (formerly le Iguana) on the Hotel Mismaloya premises. It is a beautiful setting out on the veranda just above the beach, overlooking the Rio Mismaloya and the village, and of course, the sunset. I can’t imagine why some of the diners wanted to be inside. It wasn’t that hot. The food was very good, and my wife’s sea bass was the best she has had. It was beautifully presented. She ranked Il Boccaccio very high on her list.
Another night was the almost obligatory Set of the Night of the Iguana, the famous Richard Burton movie. I remember the movie as not very good, but of course Puerto Vallarta was never the same. Liz was not in the movie, but was down there carrying on a torrid romance with Richard. The restaurant is just across the river from the hotel, and part of the all inclusive (we were not AI). A van takes you there from the hotel and picks you up. John Huston’s, another restaurant in the same area, was closed for the month. The food at “Set” was passable; the setting beautiful, and the wait staff reluctantly started the movie at my request. I wonder how many times they have had to watch it. I still don’t get the movie.
Other restaurants we took in: Pipis, Café de Artiste, La Palapa, El Set.
Café de Artiste, a “special occasion” type of place, more formal. Long pants for gentlemen are suggested. Since it is indoors, our incredibly wonderful meal was almost spoiled by the cigarette smoke coming from one of the tables. I told the manager of my disappointment; he just shrugged. He did tell a nearby cigar smoker that he could not light up a cigar. Bueno! My wife’s scallops were just ok, but the rest of the meal was terrific, and the desert, Omigod.
Arrived PV 4pm 10 Sep without a hitch, but up since 3am PST. Taxi took us through town so we got a good orientation of what we had been reading about. Got a late lunch, early dinner of pool side heavy appetizers at the hotel, then crashed for the night.
Our first activity was Vallarta Adventures trip to Las Marietas. We love to snorkel, and we knew that PV is not known for its snorkeling, especially this time of year due to runoff. However, several told us Las Marietas was far enough out, and known as the best snorkeling spot in Bandaras Bay. Well, not this time. Water very green and only couple feet visibility. The crew of the boat tried their best to entertain us, mostly serious snorkelers and some divers. They took us all to a beach between Yelapa and Majahuitas for an hour of beaching. But even there, the snorkeling was not good. The dolphins were swimming around in the water muddy for miles out from the runoff of the river Ameca. They were not interested in the boat.
The thing that saved the trip from a total bust was the return. Blue Footed Boobies would soar along with the boat at eye level from the second deck only a meter or two away. They kept their eye on the bow spray, as the boat kicked up small fish that skittered out away from the boat. Seeing these, the boobies would dive into the water, come up with the fish, and soon be back beside the speeding boat again. Absolutely fascinating to watch. Like the Discovery Channel. Nature is beautiful.
On Tuesday, we did the Swim with Dolphins up at Nuevo Vallarta. OK, don’t get on me about dolphins in captivity. We did it anyway. And thoroughly enjoyed it. In the pool with the dolphins. Broke up into groups, our group of 8. In life vests, pool 15 feet deep. 2 dolphins swam around us, we pet them, feed them. They do little tricks with us, then we ride them for a short distance. It was great fun. We bought the $40 DVD and just got through watching it. We are glad we did it and glad we bought the DVD.
That’s all for the organized activities. We came down here to R&R. That was enough. Rest was serious pool lounging.
Restaurants: Since we were there, one night was dinner at Il Boccaccia (formerly le Iguana) on the Hotel Mismaloya premises. It is a beautiful setting out on the veranda just above the beach, overlooking the Rio Mismaloya and the village, and of course, the sunset. I can’t imagine why some of the diners wanted to be inside. It wasn’t that hot. The food was very good, and my wife’s sea bass was the best she has had. It was beautifully presented. She ranked Il Boccaccio very high on her list.
Another night was the almost obligatory Set of the Night of the Iguana, the famous Richard Burton movie. I remember the movie as not very good, but of course Puerto Vallarta was never the same. Liz was not in the movie, but was down there carrying on a torrid romance with Richard. The restaurant is just across the river from the hotel, and part of the all inclusive (we were not AI). A van takes you there from the hotel and picks you up. John Huston’s, another restaurant in the same area, was closed for the month. The food at “Set” was passable; the setting beautiful, and the wait staff reluctantly started the movie at my request. I wonder how many times they have had to watch it. I still don’t get the movie.
Other restaurants we took in: Pipis, Café de Artiste, La Palapa, El Set.
Café de Artiste, a “special occasion” type of place, more formal. Long pants for gentlemen are suggested. Since it is indoors, our incredibly wonderful meal was almost spoiled by the cigarette smoke coming from one of the tables. I told the manager of my disappointment; he just shrugged. He did tell a nearby cigar smoker that he could not light up a cigar. Bueno! My wife’s scallops were just ok, but the rest of the meal was terrific, and the desert, Omigod.
Sep 18th, 2005, 01:00 PM
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Continued from above:
Pipis: A really fun place with gigantic margaritas. No Corona, but Sol is a good substitute. Best tortilla chips we had all week. 2nd drink with dinner is on the house (no kidding). The owner, Little Pipi, is constantly about, making sure you are happy. Mariachi’s wandering the floor even at our early hour of 7:30. Many wait staff and patrons, obviously Mexican, would sing the songs, and one guy was better than the band. My wife’s enchiladas and chili rellano were not to her very high standards (she makes them), but my shrimp was excellent.
El Set: we booked here on the 15th, deciding not to partake of the festival at the hotel and many other places for Independence Day. El Set (totally different the Iguana one) is located on a cliff just south of town, just before you get to Dreams. We were seated on the roof top level, and watched a stunning sunset. The lower level was set up for a grande wedding party that started at 9 pm. (Yes the bride was beautiful but we didn’t think we’d get away with being wedding crashers.) My lobster, fresh from “Baja” was drowned in a cheese topping, very large and very good. My wife gave her snapper a B+. The margaritas were excellent even up to my high standards (I make them). We talked a while with the owner Fernando and his wife. I told him he should consider changing the name as it is confusing with Set of the Night of the Iguana further south. The evening was one of our best because of the location.
La Palapa along Playa los Muertos: Our hands down favorite. One lunch and one dinner. The dinner was our last night in PV, and the absolute highlight. During this time of year, the restaurant is not crowded. We got there about 7:30 after an incredible thunderstorm. Sat in the first row of tables up from the beach. Later they set up the tables in the sand and about 9pm some patrons were seated out there. Many people will have different definitions for romantic restaurant. Well, IMO, this is the epitome of Mexican romantic restaurants. On the beach, excellent food and service, very good margaritas, and a little combo playing soft Mexican jazz. This is my idea of heaven, palapa style. We lingered late here. Our shrimp dinners were the best we had had in PV. Excellent deserts. Service impeccable. We ate lunch there the day before. It too was terrific. We tried to get the recipe for the shrimp, but they use some peppers that are not readily available at home.
Oh, yeah. I should give a mention to La Casa de los Hot Cakes, or, Memos. On B Badillo near Constitucion. What a terrific menu of cheese blintzes, eggs benedict, waffles and hot cakes of all conceivable flavors. I loved the French toast with apple compot. Bottomless coffee cup. I got up early (7 o’clock, its still dark) and made it to La casa by bus a couple of mornings. Opens at 8. Muy bueno for breakfast under $10 US.
Shopping very good on the island (Thanks Suze). Bus from Mismaloya let us off at B Badillo and Constitucion, and you could walk on Constitucion to the little swinging foot bridge out to the island. Le Bistro was closed for Sept. The usual array of palapa (junk) shops, and a few very nice stores. Also, good shopping along B. Badillo. Some nice stores along the Malecon area, but we were put off by the aggressive hawkers in front of every store. But some nice jewelry stores.
Strolled the Malecon at night, and got an ice cream from Baskin Robbins. Families out in numbers. Chicos seem fat and happy. This week is big week due to Independence Day 15-16 Sept. After breakfast Friday the 16th at La Casa, I walked down to I. Vallarta where they were forming for the parade. Many school marching groups and charros (cowboys) in full regalia. Also, the queen of the parade being tended to by her mother. I asked “Con permisso?” And they said it was ok for me to photograph. As I stood on the elevated walk way, I talked with some of the charros up on their horses as they waited for their turn to march. They were curious as to our Cinco de Mayo, which is just another ho-hum holiday to them. They were amazed to learn that at Cinco de Mayo in my town, the charros and mariachis celebrate for days, but 15 Sep not a big deal. We traded Mexican / English words, laughed a lot. We shook hands, and as I left, I felt like I had new friends, and didn’t even know their names.
Please see my hotel report post titled: “Our Quick Puerto Vallarta trip Hotel La Jolla de Mismaloya Report” posted a little earlier today.
Our primary activity was lounging at the incredible pool complex of the La Jolla de Mismaloya Hotel. Two large pools, swim up bar, great lounge furniture. All you’d want to just do nothing. We did it well.
Thank you Suze and a whole lot of others, whose posts here helped me immensely with this trip. I will be glad to answer any questions that I can, but I am not a PV expert. Just had one very wonderful week.
Pipis: A really fun place with gigantic margaritas. No Corona, but Sol is a good substitute. Best tortilla chips we had all week. 2nd drink with dinner is on the house (no kidding). The owner, Little Pipi, is constantly about, making sure you are happy. Mariachi’s wandering the floor even at our early hour of 7:30. Many wait staff and patrons, obviously Mexican, would sing the songs, and one guy was better than the band. My wife’s enchiladas and chili rellano were not to her very high standards (she makes them), but my shrimp was excellent.
El Set: we booked here on the 15th, deciding not to partake of the festival at the hotel and many other places for Independence Day. El Set (totally different the Iguana one) is located on a cliff just south of town, just before you get to Dreams. We were seated on the roof top level, and watched a stunning sunset. The lower level was set up for a grande wedding party that started at 9 pm. (Yes the bride was beautiful but we didn’t think we’d get away with being wedding crashers.) My lobster, fresh from “Baja” was drowned in a cheese topping, very large and very good. My wife gave her snapper a B+. The margaritas were excellent even up to my high standards (I make them). We talked a while with the owner Fernando and his wife. I told him he should consider changing the name as it is confusing with Set of the Night of the Iguana further south. The evening was one of our best because of the location.
La Palapa along Playa los Muertos: Our hands down favorite. One lunch and one dinner. The dinner was our last night in PV, and the absolute highlight. During this time of year, the restaurant is not crowded. We got there about 7:30 after an incredible thunderstorm. Sat in the first row of tables up from the beach. Later they set up the tables in the sand and about 9pm some patrons were seated out there. Many people will have different definitions for romantic restaurant. Well, IMO, this is the epitome of Mexican romantic restaurants. On the beach, excellent food and service, very good margaritas, and a little combo playing soft Mexican jazz. This is my idea of heaven, palapa style. We lingered late here. Our shrimp dinners were the best we had had in PV. Excellent deserts. Service impeccable. We ate lunch there the day before. It too was terrific. We tried to get the recipe for the shrimp, but they use some peppers that are not readily available at home.
Oh, yeah. I should give a mention to La Casa de los Hot Cakes, or, Memos. On B Badillo near Constitucion. What a terrific menu of cheese blintzes, eggs benedict, waffles and hot cakes of all conceivable flavors. I loved the French toast with apple compot. Bottomless coffee cup. I got up early (7 o’clock, its still dark) and made it to La casa by bus a couple of mornings. Opens at 8. Muy bueno for breakfast under $10 US.
Shopping very good on the island (Thanks Suze). Bus from Mismaloya let us off at B Badillo and Constitucion, and you could walk on Constitucion to the little swinging foot bridge out to the island. Le Bistro was closed for Sept. The usual array of palapa (junk) shops, and a few very nice stores. Also, good shopping along B. Badillo. Some nice stores along the Malecon area, but we were put off by the aggressive hawkers in front of every store. But some nice jewelry stores.
Strolled the Malecon at night, and got an ice cream from Baskin Robbins. Families out in numbers. Chicos seem fat and happy. This week is big week due to Independence Day 15-16 Sept. After breakfast Friday the 16th at La Casa, I walked down to I. Vallarta where they were forming for the parade. Many school marching groups and charros (cowboys) in full regalia. Also, the queen of the parade being tended to by her mother. I asked “Con permisso?” And they said it was ok for me to photograph. As I stood on the elevated walk way, I talked with some of the charros up on their horses as they waited for their turn to march. They were curious as to our Cinco de Mayo, which is just another ho-hum holiday to them. They were amazed to learn that at Cinco de Mayo in my town, the charros and mariachis celebrate for days, but 15 Sep not a big deal. We traded Mexican / English words, laughed a lot. We shook hands, and as I left, I felt like I had new friends, and didn’t even know their names.
Please see my hotel report post titled: “Our Quick Puerto Vallarta trip Hotel La Jolla de Mismaloya Report” posted a little earlier today.
Our primary activity was lounging at the incredible pool complex of the La Jolla de Mismaloya Hotel. Two large pools, swim up bar, great lounge furniture. All you’d want to just do nothing. We did it well.
Thank you Suze and a whole lot of others, whose posts here helped me immensely with this trip. I will be glad to answer any questions that I can, but I am not a PV expert. Just had one very wonderful week.
Sep 19th, 2005, 06:21 AM
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de nada. the pleasure is mine.
thanks BillJ for the great reports. telling about the parade preparations brought tears to my eys! that's the kind of surprises that make PV so great!(besides Memo's pancakes!!)
thanks BillJ for the great reports. telling about the parade preparations brought tears to my eys! that's the kind of surprises that make PV so great!(besides Memo's pancakes!!)
Sep 19th, 2005, 07:16 AM
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Great trip report! Glad to hear you liked La Palapa. Butsey, a poster on this site turned me onto it last year. I agree with you it is a romantic restaurant and i am looking foward to going again.Can you please tell me how the weather was. I know it's hot, but how were the evenings?? Cool down at all at night?? I am leaving this Sat. for 11 days and i am looking foward to doing nothing but sitting around the pool most of the time and catching up on a stack of books i cannot seem to read when i am home!
Sep 19th, 2005, 02:33 PM
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Ivitaly, I would like to tell you that it cooled down at night, but the word is relative. The weather was hot and muggy, though the actual temp, +/- 88 to 90, down to 76 or so at night. But stayed humid. I got to tell you that walking around town sometimes the heat got to us. buy we quickly cooled down once we stepped into La Palapa, or a nicely a/c'd store. It rained pretty much every day, but usually in the late afternoon or night. If you have any view, you will see a thunderstorm every day, but we were only actually in one once. We felt it coming in enough time to get under cover, though many just stayed out in it in the pool or ocean. Up at Mismaloya, it was definately cooler than in town, but one still did not linger out in the open.
Sep 20th, 2005, 06:51 AM
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What a Great Report I definitely go to LaPalapa every time I go to P.V. Would you go to Cafe De Artiste again? I tried it once before and I thought it was ok didn't blow me away I am willing to try it again Let me know Sounds like you had a winning vacation, Now you know why Suze, Frankie, myself & Lvitaly love P.V. so much.
Sep 20th, 2005, 06:54 AM
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Thank you Bill for responding back. I knew going into the month of Sept. it was going to be hot and humid, but i just hope it does'nt get to us.We mostly plan on hanging in and around the pool in the day time and venture to town and dinner at night.I have never been to Yelapa and was thinking of a day trip there but i am wondering now if it will be just to hot. I guess i will figure it out when i get there!
Sep 20th, 2005, 10:49 AM
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Ivitaly- There's a nice one page article on Yelpa in the newest Budget Travel magazine (October 2005 issue). In all my trips to PV, I've yet to make it out there (worried i'd get seasick in the water taxi quite honestly)... but this article peaked my curiosity.
Sep 20th, 2005, 04:16 PM
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Ivitaly: Well, if all your going to do is lounge, the weather won't effect you. It didn't us, but we hugged the shade. As for Yelapa, I had that on my things to do list, but cancelled. During our non-snorkling trip, they took us to a beach near there, and we got a glimpse of Yelapa. Frankly decided wasn't worth the effort, but understand, we turned into pool/beach slugs after the second day. Maybe we missed something. I learned that the Mismaloya bus continues south from the hotel, to Boca de Tomatlan, I believe. Bus took 15-20 minutes from town to Mismaloya. From Boca you can pick up a water taxi. That will shorten the boat trip significantly and no doubt save $ if you had planned on leaving from town. I think I have this right, but please confirm this info. I did not actually do this. You can pick up the Mismaloya bus at the corner of Basilio Badillo and Insurgentes. Cost 5 peso pp one way. Leaves about every 15 minutes. Don't know when the last boat/bus runs toward PV. Check out www.casatango.com for info on Boca and more info on Yelapa.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Sep 20th, 2005, 06:18 PM
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Butsey: forgot to say, no, I would not go back to Cafe de Artiste. First, I only scratched the surface of what must be several wonderful restaurants, but more important, well, it just wasn't worth it. But I'd go back to La Palapa in a heartbeat.
Sep 21st, 2005, 06:47 AM
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Yes that's correct (to my understanding haven't done it myself) you can catch a water taxi to Yelapa from the pier at Playa Los Muertos in town, or take a bus south to the beach at Boca and take a shorter water taxi ride from there.
Sep 21st, 2005, 07:07 AM
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Thanks Bill will follow your advice Since We felt the same way you did, just thought it might be worth the try but will not go now. Just keep in mind that the owners of LaPalapa have another restaurant in the hills, Capital Grille nice place, a little pricey but worth it. We always have our favorites that we go back to each time but always like to try at least one new one.
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