Oaxaca/Puerto Escondido Hotels?
Apr 20th, 2000, 02:05 PM
#2
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Nora, <BR> <BR>I was in Oaxaca about three years ago and stayed at a really charming hotel on the hillside just outside the city (Garden Hotel maybe? I'll check when I get home). Locally run (you'll know you're in Mexico and not in some chain, etc), about $90 US/night for 3 of us--don't know how the exchange rate now compares. Decent dining room should you choose to eat in, but unmemorable. There were various room arrangements: some bungalows (each w/ two hotel rooms; probably there was a door in between for families, etc.) with porches scattered on the property, which was beautifully planted with flowers; and some larger bldgs. Definitely quiet, don't know about kitchenettes. Great view of the city from some of the rooms. They had a minivan that would run you into town. We usually took a cab back at night; I don't remember how much it cost, but definitely cheap. Nice-looking pool, but under renovation when we were there (they got us privileges instead to the pool at the Camino Real, which if you can afford it, looked amazing). The show at the Camino Real is worth going to, by the way--it must be the only place in town you can spend $30 (lots of different regional specialties and exotic moles, etc and traditional dances). Otherwise, the most we ever paid for dinner, and we were not trying to eat on the cheap, was about $7. (I kid you not!) Went to the ruins on some guided tours from a minivan that stops at some of the downtown hotels; I think we arranged it through our front desk. (I'm spacing out on the names, but the one with the ball court, etc, is especially impressive.) We missed the famed Sunday artisan market, but I definitely recommend a trip out to the rug-making town nearby (T------?). Go there on the bus for local flavor--and probably, diesel fumes and maybe even goats!--or by cab, could probably negotiate for about $5. It was amazing: just about every family made rugs, and would invite you in to look at their works, which were always in the best room of the house, where they also usually had a little religious shrine set up, etc. (And don't leave your money at home that day, as we did.) If you do go to this town, we had the best meal of our trip, which is saying something, at the little shop/restaurant across from the bus stop. We had just missed a bus, were starving, and the woman who ran it brought out the same tortillas, etc she had made for her family for us. Maybe it wouldn't have tasted quite so good under different circumstances, but at the time, it was sheer heaven. Being high-strung Northeastern types, it took us a day or two to adjust to the slower pace, but then it was wonderful. Be sure to take time to stroll about the zocalo: often at dusk, there was a band of elderly instrument-wielding men and dancing. Anyway, have a wonderful time!
Apr 24th, 2000, 12:45 PM
#5
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Previous poster guessed right from my description above: I stayed at the Hotel Victoria. Phone/fax # should be readily available through most guidebooks. (If you're looking for recommendations for these, we used Lonely Planet's Mexico volume, which at the time we thought had the most info; on a visit to the bookstore over the weekend, I noticed that Moon Publications, which also tends to be good, has a volume that specifically covers the Oaxaca region, which will also take care of Puerto Escondido.) We booked directly with the hotel; it's possible that you might get a better rate with a package (if you're flying on Aeromexico, try calling their package desk; I almost went to Merida and they had great prices). If you're looking for somewhere less expensive, by the way, you might try Las Golandrinas. They were booked when we went, but I believe it's a B&Bish type place closer to the Oaxaca town center. It's only about $40 a night, apparently everyone who stays there raves about it, and it made it into "Best Hotels in Mexico." <BR> <BR>The rug-weaving town I mentioned is Teotitlan del Valle. The site of the ruins with the ball court, built by the Zapotecs, is Yagul. There are also ruins nearby at Mitla. Oh, and I think the Oaxaca outdoor market is on Saturday, not Sunday, as I said previously. <BR> <BR>Looking quickly over the postings on this site, someone asked a question about Hualtuco, close to PE (more built up but still peaceful, from what I understand; perhaps more likely to offer luxurious accomodations). The NYT did a Frugal Traveler piece a few years ago on both, which might be helpful if it's not too outdated. <BR> <BR>Have a wonderful time! From what I've read, the Christmas celebrations are supposed to be great.
