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NON-tourist, but beautiful?

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Old Jun 1st, 2003 | 07:53 PM
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NON-tourist, but beautiful?

Hello, Okay so we will be tourists, end of June first part of July. Where can we go after Arenal/Monteverde, which sounds like a Must-see, that will not be a big tourist spot, where we might meet real Costa Ricans, and still see animals, birds and the land? Oh, we don't surf, are not interested in bar/night life--just simple, but lovely un-touristy places? We'd like to see Corcorvado,
but aren't sure how to do that on our own--Is the Caribbean too rainy end of June first part of July? Any help would be appreciated. We are active seniors who can hike and we enjoy feeling like we've really seen Costa Rica, not just the tourist circuit. Thanks for any help.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2003 | 12:31 PM
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You could think about the area around Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. There is a lovely little place owned by Costa Ricans called La Quinta. They have lots of poison arrow frogs to look at on their property in a special area that they have fixed up. It is completely natural but was planted in such a way to attract the frogs. It is a very friendly place. You can find it at La Quinta de Sarapiqui. It is on the Caribbean slope area which is just rich with birds and wildlife but not overly touristy.
Another much more popular place that is owned by a large worldwide tour company (Holbrook I believe) is Selva Verde Lodge. You don't feel like you are in a touristy place because it is very well done. The food is very good and it is right on the Sarapiqui river with a hanging bridge to cross over to their own private rainforest reserve. It could be wet in the area at this time but it could be wet at anytime there. I poured while we were there (La Quinta) in Feb but we just put our rain jackets on and went hiking.
La Selve research station is in that area and is a beautiful place to hike in.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2003 | 03:04 PM
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Thank you Suzi2! I've read so many posts here, and my Lonely Planet is definitely NOT lonely, and then the internet itself--I feel like I've already been on the trip. Your responses are just great on these posts- and really helpful-wish I knew you! I'm trying to plan a trip that will make my husband happy (not touristy) and will be something we can both enjoy (a little luxury too, for me). We used to do a lot of backpacking, but his knees are not good, and we are also not as young as we used to be (duh).

I want to see the Oso, and La Paloma sounds good because of the all-inclusive, trip into the park and Cano Is., but Playa Zancudo - Los Cocos, sounds like something husband would like--low key, our own place for a few days, some exploring, use of bikes and kayaks, maybe fishing for him. But I'm a bit worried that it won't be all that great--few animals, not that pretty? And I notice it's near Golfito which you mentioned isn't much! What's the Golfo Dulce like--is it polluted? Also if we fly down to La Paloma on their pkg. deal I don't want to go back to S.J. and then fly down to Playa Zancudo for a second plane trip.

Anyway, I'm looking up the two places you mentioned, and trying to figure out the logistics. We only have 2 weeks to be in CR and there's so much to see. Thank you again for all your helpful suggestions. I think we could get to the Lookout Inn from Playa Zancudo but it would be hard to ge to Drake's Bay and Corcovado Pk from there. I'm still thinking of Cabo Matapalo, renting a small house there. I'm sorry to be so disorganized, and also I hope I'm not being a pain, but would appreciate some of your good advice. By the way, the note you posted about fast drying clothes is greatly appreciated. I've ordered som Capilene.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2003 | 08:13 PM
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Your mind is racing a mile a minute! Wish I could be more helpful regarding Playa Zancudo. I know it is a popular surfing area but that is all. It is exactly opposite from where I spend my beach time-Playa Platanares so I can see it but not well enough to actually know how it is. It looks as though there would be some good wildlife and there are some nice mountains covered with trees behind the beach. I wouldn't worry about it being polluted. Tiskita lodge is just beyond Zancuda and Pavones- more on the point and it is a well known eco lodge. They don't have room for very many tourists so it is a quiet place.
From what I read about the house rentals in the Cabo Matapalo area you could actually eat at some of the nicer lodges restaurants as well as prepare your own food. Cabo Matapalo is IMO the prettiest area of the Osa and it is where I have seen the most wildlife of any place in CR. Unfortunately getting out to do day trips is a bit more of a chore. Most of the home rentals have caretakers that can help you. The area has plenty of hiking right there.
Lookout Inn is definitely in the middle of nowhere but the macaws will be right across the street in the almond trees on the beach and it is a lovely place. There will be gold panners in the Carate river and you can hike up the river to Lanas place. The tent camp is just up the beach and you are always welcome to stop at their bar for a rest in a hammock and a cold drink. There may be a new tent camp just beyond that one also. It was built by the former partner of the first tent camp. The La Leona entrance to the Corcovado park is near there. A guide is highly recommended. Any of the lodges on the Osa can help you arrange for transportation if needed and a guide. You need to make arrangements at least one day before, preferably early in the day because communication is done by radio and it might take time to get everything arranged. There are monkeys around there although not quite as many as Matapalo and there is a chance of seeing other things but they are all the same animals that you would see in Matapalo also. You really don't need to get into the park to see the wildlife. the whole Osa Peninsula is basically Corcovado.
To add to your dilema I am going to add one more place. Savegre Lodge in San Gerardo de Dota. It is just southwest of Cartago but as you decend into the valley of San Gerardo it is magical. There are very few places to stay there so is not touristy. Trogon Lodge is another place there. We had the most wonderful time watching the Quetzals and from what I understand they are there year round. It is at about 7,000ft so a little cool but there are heaters in the rooms. It is not a fancy place but is a serene place. It is owned by the Chacon family who are just wonderful. There is also trout fishing there and a combo horseback/hike to a very pretty waterfall. There are a group of towns spread out in that area that are called the Route of the Saints. I only saw one monkey but there were probably more. We saw lots of neat birds. It is a popular hideaway for Costa Rican tourists and we noticed that most of the guests were Costa Rican. It is a 3 hr drive from the airport with a quick stop on the way.
La Paloma is a very nice place and I think you would enjoy it but that area does have more tourists these days. There are areas there that still have the most unbelievably beautiful virgin rainforest. Unfortunately the loggers are fast at work cutting it down. We actually tried to buy a big piece of it but after talking to a lawyer decided against it.
Happy trip planning
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Old Jun 3rd, 2003 | 09:43 PM
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Suzi, Thanks again for your fine suggestions. I looked at Sevegre Lodge and it sounds perfect for a couple of days--and we could take a bus or drive since it's only 3 hours from the airport. Then maybe drive back to S. J. and fly to the Oso. You mentioned in one of your posts the Bamboo house in Cabo Matapalo. It sounds great but 3 bedrooms and only two of us. I found another place to rent called Casa Corcovado--1 bedroom. Do you know anything about it?

I thank you again for your suggestions. You have been a great help and I do appreciate it! Mary
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Old Jun 3rd, 2003 | 10:07 PM
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hi Suzi, I had the wrong name for the 2 bedroom--It's Casa Coronado. Thanks
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Old Jun 4th, 2003 | 05:28 AM
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The house rental was Ally I think. That area is beautiful (Cabo Matapalo)and I have gotten to know a lot of people down there and have never seen a bad place although I guess it could happen. I have seen some extremely primitive camping areas. If I were going to think about renting one of the houses I would want one with a caretaker not too far away in case there is a problem. They would even be helpful if you needed advice. It does seem like everyone down on the Osa especially, helps each other out. They all know each other.
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