Just returned from 10 days in Peru on August 31. Wanted to pass along some practical advice for visiting Machu Picchu which no one has seemed to mention before here on Fodors.com:

1. Is it better to spend the night at Machu Picchu or just make a day trip? This was the question that we deeply pondered when planning our Peru itinerary. Now that I've been there, here's my advice. Unless you are a MAJOR archaeology buff and visiting ruins are the "be all end all" for you, or you are truly into the "spirituality" of sacred places like M.P., a day trip is just fine. We took the early train from Ollantaytambo which arrived at 8:30am and went straight to the ruins. We had 4 hours to see and photograph them before it got really crowded with tourists and found that to be plenty of time to cover the highlights at leisure.

2. BRING A HAT AND SUSCREEN! Because it was only 60 degrees F in Cusco, we assumed M.P. would also be cool, BUT IT IS NOT. M.P. is subtropical and can get VERY WARM, so do not be fooled as we were.

3. BRING MOSQUITO REPELLENT! I was told this by other travelers and chose to blow it off, and was I sorry I did. I had no less than 45 mosquito bites all over my legs which are still visible 6 weeks later!

4. WHICH TRAIN TO TAKE? To save some $ yet splurge a bit, we opted to take the Vistadome tourist train up, and the luxury Hiram Bingham down, and we were very pleased we did. The Hiram Bingham is operated by the same Orient-Express as goes from Paris to Istanbul, and the trip from MP to Cusco was a real treat. You are serenaded by Peruvian musicians as you board, assigned a private table in the dining car, offered hot towel service, and pampered with a 5 course gourmet dinner. Lord knows how the chef prepared such a fine feast on a moving train! Each course was prepared using ingredients indigenous to Peru. The entree was fresh local trout. The staff and service were nothing short of superb. Definitely worth the experience of train travel from a bygone era.

I agree with 2 and 3 (and you might even consider wearing shorts--the air temperature was not that high, but the sun was so bright that it definitely warmed things up). We were there in early September.

Re 4, we did not take the luxury train, but it does sound like a great experience.

We were very glad we got to visit MP towards the end of one day and also the next morning. It meant that most of the time we were there, it was quite uncrowded, and it gave us time to hike to the Sun Gate in the morning as people were arriving from the Inca Trail. But I'm sure either way would be wonderful.

Len

This is the best info I have gotten on MP. Thanks for your post, especially item #1. Please expand on the train choices you made. We have booked the vistadome, but how do you arrange for the return on a different train. What is the additional cost?
Hank, Chicago.

I have to disagree with #1. I did the Inca Trail and liked the small ruins on the way to MP. The feeling you get encountering these places tucked in the mountain fog is very unique - not just for a spiritual person. You see in the similar perspective as if you were an Inca. I appreciated MP more because I had to walk to get there.

There is a hike you can do to Waynu Picchu from MP. If you intend to do it, please be prepared with at least some good shoes. I saw people climbing the mountain in flip flops and boat shoes. I also saw some guy getting carried down in a stretcher. The steps are narrow and slippery... so please be careful.

I think there is no real correct answer to #1. A day trip is fine for some people; others will want more time at the ruins. Boarding that early train from out in Ollantaytambo does offer more options, but if you do the day trip to and from Cusco, that is a lot of time to spend on the train in just one day.

That I know, the Hiram Bingham charges a flat round-trip rate with no discount if you decide to use one of the less expensive trains on any part of the journey.