Just Back - Trip Report (part 2)
#1
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Just Back - Trip Report (part 2)
OK - we did 14 days and stayed in 8 places! Yes, a little hectic, but we wanted to see as many areas as possible on our first trip. Started out with 2 nights at Hotel Buena Vista near Alajuela. They provide free transport to/from the airport so was very easy. It is nice, small and has pretty grounds. Price is right - $75-$85. Worth the extra for the top floor rooms in back with balconies and a great view of the central valley. Small, but good continental breakfast included and the staff great. They arranged a full day tour with Costa Rica Fun Adventures which included Poas Volcano, La Paz Waterfall gardens (breakfast there), 2 hours boat ride on Sarapiquis with lunch in their jungle spot on the river. We saw quetzels, sloths, blue jean frogs, morph butterflies, monkies, and much , much more. Very well worth the time and money.
Next stop - Arenal Paraiso Lodge. They upgradeds us to a deluxe cabin - brand new. The view was great and the volcano was completely clear - lucky for us since we only stayed one night! Had a very nice dinner at the Volcano Lodge. Next day we hiked the trails in the Arenal National Park. We loved the views of the volcano and the lake and climbing the volcanic boulders. After checking out of Arenal Paraiso we left our luggage there and headed to Tabacon. It was pretty empty around lunch time and we took lots of pics, lazed around and had a fantastic lunch! Then on around the lake to the Villa Decary. We loved this place. It is a B&B near Nuevo Arenal with a wonderful view of the lake from every room and great breakfasts. We stayed 2 nights in the casita Zombia, a small separate cabin. Would love to go back and stay longer. The grounds are beautiful - we saw toucans and tons of other birds. Next stop, Manuel Antonio. We stayed only one night at Hotel Plinio. We were upgraded there, too, to a 3 level room with a view terrace. It is reasonably priced and has a good restaurant. We went to the park early the next day, hiked all the trails and saw lots of monkeys, sloths, iguanas, birds, etc. We didn't hire a guide. You just have to look where all the guides are pointing to see the sloths. You'll find the monkeys yourself and we like to be on our own schedule. Later in the day we road south of Quepos to Dominical on a terrible, rough, unpaved road. We stayed in Pacific Edge for 2 nights. We loved this place!! Only four casitas - but each has unbelievable views and is very simple. It is high above the Pacific on a very steep, rough road. The only time we needed our four wheel drive was on this road and we used it only for about 90 seconds. The SUV is nice for the highter clearance on all the bad roads. Pacific Edge seemed like paradise to us - next time we will stay longer. The price is right - around $60-$70. Susan will cook breakfast or dinner for you (extra), and she and George can direct you to some nice restaurants in Dominical. It feels relatively isolated and we liked it much better than MA, but not tons to do for families.
When we left Dominical we drove over the mountain to San IsidoroDeEl General and then on towards San Jose, stopping at the Trogon Lodge. We went there to see quetzels and were lucky to see several. This lodge is so nice - lots of flowers and birds and heaters (yes, heaters) in the rooms. And we needed them - it dropped to around 30 at night, but felt great during the day when we were hiking. We highly recommend this place! On to San Jose to turn the car in. We got lost trying to find Hotel Le Bergerac, but finally found it and a rep from Adobe came to get our car. Couldn't have been easier. We had a nice, upscale meal at Le Bergerac. It is in a quiet neighborhood, but a bit far from city, airport, activities. We got a taxi early the next morning to the airport and flew on Sansa to the OSA peninsula. We definitely saved the best for last and I will finish this trip report on Osa later.
Next stop - Arenal Paraiso Lodge. They upgradeds us to a deluxe cabin - brand new. The view was great and the volcano was completely clear - lucky for us since we only stayed one night! Had a very nice dinner at the Volcano Lodge. Next day we hiked the trails in the Arenal National Park. We loved the views of the volcano and the lake and climbing the volcanic boulders. After checking out of Arenal Paraiso we left our luggage there and headed to Tabacon. It was pretty empty around lunch time and we took lots of pics, lazed around and had a fantastic lunch! Then on around the lake to the Villa Decary. We loved this place. It is a B&B near Nuevo Arenal with a wonderful view of the lake from every room and great breakfasts. We stayed 2 nights in the casita Zombia, a small separate cabin. Would love to go back and stay longer. The grounds are beautiful - we saw toucans and tons of other birds. Next stop, Manuel Antonio. We stayed only one night at Hotel Plinio. We were upgraded there, too, to a 3 level room with a view terrace. It is reasonably priced and has a good restaurant. We went to the park early the next day, hiked all the trails and saw lots of monkeys, sloths, iguanas, birds, etc. We didn't hire a guide. You just have to look where all the guides are pointing to see the sloths. You'll find the monkeys yourself and we like to be on our own schedule. Later in the day we road south of Quepos to Dominical on a terrible, rough, unpaved road. We stayed in Pacific Edge for 2 nights. We loved this place!! Only four casitas - but each has unbelievable views and is very simple. It is high above the Pacific on a very steep, rough road. The only time we needed our four wheel drive was on this road and we used it only for about 90 seconds. The SUV is nice for the highter clearance on all the bad roads. Pacific Edge seemed like paradise to us - next time we will stay longer. The price is right - around $60-$70. Susan will cook breakfast or dinner for you (extra), and she and George can direct you to some nice restaurants in Dominical. It feels relatively isolated and we liked it much better than MA, but not tons to do for families.
When we left Dominical we drove over the mountain to San IsidoroDeEl General and then on towards San Jose, stopping at the Trogon Lodge. We went there to see quetzels and were lucky to see several. This lodge is so nice - lots of flowers and birds and heaters (yes, heaters) in the rooms. And we needed them - it dropped to around 30 at night, but felt great during the day when we were hiking. We highly recommend this place! On to San Jose to turn the car in. We got lost trying to find Hotel Le Bergerac, but finally found it and a rep from Adobe came to get our car. Couldn't have been easier. We had a nice, upscale meal at Le Bergerac. It is in a quiet neighborhood, but a bit far from city, airport, activities. We got a taxi early the next morning to the airport and flew on Sansa to the OSA peninsula. We definitely saved the best for last and I will finish this trip report on Osa later.
#5
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Time to tell about the best part of our trip - the OSA peninsula. We landed at Puerto Jimenez. Silly me. I didn't use the rest room at the Sansa terminal in San jose because I thought I'd make it to Puerto Jimenez airport. Well, there is NO airport and nothing but a covered waiting area. Our ride to Bosque del Cabo was waiting so we all piled in (3 couples) and took off for the hour long, bumpy ride to Bosque. Bosque del Cabo is incredible.
Our bungalow , pizote, and the rest, sit right on the bluff overlooking the Pacific 500 feet below. Our "monkey tree" was right outside where we were able to observe the monkeys close up every day. Bosque has over 500 acres now and several trails so there was no need to leave the area. We hiked all the trails and we saw all four types of monkeys, toucans, scarlet macaws, lots of other birds and small mammals. By the way, all the bungalows now have electricity and hot water now (although our hot water wasn't working). The food was really wonderful and we ate way too much. We only stayed three nights, but could have stayed much longer. I had a massage in the jungle which was so relaxing. I can't say enough about thisw place, but sure hope it doesn't get too discovered - I want to go back and be able to get a room. It was full while we were there, but sometimes you can go for hours without seeing anyone. So peaceful. The weather was hot, but very comfortable at night and they have small fans in the rooms now. It feels like a summer camp for grownups.
If anyone has any questions, please fell free to contact me. This board has been so useful to me in making my plans and I'll continue to consult it as I plan next year's trip. I'd love to go back to all the places we've been, but I also want to go to so many other places.
To answer a question from liz10 - we hiked by ourselves in Arenal. We just don't like the big groups and like to go at our own pace. At the National Park it is very easy. We went to the gate and they gave us a map with the trails. Each has times listed. You will have not trouble at all.
Our bungalow , pizote, and the rest, sit right on the bluff overlooking the Pacific 500 feet below. Our "monkey tree" was right outside where we were able to observe the monkeys close up every day. Bosque has over 500 acres now and several trails so there was no need to leave the area. We hiked all the trails and we saw all four types of monkeys, toucans, scarlet macaws, lots of other birds and small mammals. By the way, all the bungalows now have electricity and hot water now (although our hot water wasn't working). The food was really wonderful and we ate way too much. We only stayed three nights, but could have stayed much longer. I had a massage in the jungle which was so relaxing. I can't say enough about thisw place, but sure hope it doesn't get too discovered - I want to go back and be able to get a room. It was full while we were there, but sometimes you can go for hours without seeing anyone. So peaceful. The weather was hot, but very comfortable at night and they have small fans in the rooms now. It feels like a summer camp for grownups.
If anyone has any questions, please fell free to contact me. This board has been so useful to me in making my plans and I'll continue to consult it as I plan next year's trip. I'd love to go back to all the places we've been, but I also want to go to so many other places.
To answer a question from liz10 - we hiked by ourselves in Arenal. We just don't like the big groups and like to go at our own pace. At the National Park it is very easy. We went to the gate and they gave us a map with the trails. Each has times listed. You will have not trouble at all.
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
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Pegsimba: A few questions aboout Bosque del Cabo. Was your SANSA flight bumpy? I am prone to motion sickness and am trying to get up the courage to fly down ot the OSA in December/January.
Did anyone at Bosque take a day trip to Corcovado N.P.....do you feel that the trails at Bosque will give the visitor the same experience, without the hassle of getting to Corcovado? How was the wildlife viewing? Any recommendations for specific bungalow locations atBosque? By the way, I will be travelling solo on this trip and plan to spend 4 or 5 nights at Bosque...does that sound about right?
Did anyone at Bosque take a day trip to Corcovado N.P.....do you feel that the trails at Bosque will give the visitor the same experience, without the hassle of getting to Corcovado? How was the wildlife viewing? Any recommendations for specific bungalow locations atBosque? By the way, I will be travelling solo on this trip and plan to spend 4 or 5 nights at Bosque...does that sound about right?
#7
Joined: Feb 2003
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To get to Corcovado from Bosque is about a 45min to 1hr ride and then about another 45min walk on the beach to get to the La Leona Station. Other options many people are doing these days is to charter a flight for about $100 to fly into the park and then you hike out. The Sirena station is the better one from what I hear. You would definitely want a guide. I spoke recently to some people who actually took a couple of nights to hike out and they saw anteaters, monkeys, other small mammals.
Don't know what kind of experience you are looking for but at Bosque I have seen Peccary, all 4 types of monkeys, huge army ant columns as well as the ever present leaf cutters, several small mammals. Wonderful birds. They have had a large cat there recently. When I was there about 4 weeks ago they said the maid saw one by one of the more remote rental houses recently. Don't think any anteaters have been seen there. Each one of the trails is different and so your chance of seeing different things is really good. Someone said there was a boa on one of them but we didn't find it.
Bosque is truly paradise and I don't even want to tell any more people about it. They only have 10 cabinas and don't want to add more so it can stay as nice as it is.
One thing I would like to mention, Bosque is about 1/2way between PJ and Carate (La Leona Sta.) You could think about a couple of nights at Look Out Inn which is right at the end of the road and you would just have the 45min beach walk to get to the entrance. Luna Lodge is there also, although set back a way, and is a lovely place. Lana is a great gal.
There is an airstrip there also (in Carate) so if you did decide to fly into the park for the longer hike you could easily. Look Out is a great place to just sit under the almond trees on the beach and watch the Scarlet Macaws. The pool is not much to get excited about.
Regarding the amount of nights at Bosque. Last year we had 5 and it took us all of that time to hike all the trails. The Pacific trail is a killer. This year we didn't feel the need to hike all of them so just hiked a couple. We were only there 4 nights and really felt shorted. We did do the hike with Philip who is the resident naturalist. It was very interesting. Unfortunately he and his Nicaraguan sweetie will be getting married and he is planning to leave Bosque for Nicaragua in about 1 year. We are hoping to get there again before he leaves.
Regarding rooms, they are all different but all are very nice. Don't know if you are going for the standard or the deluxe. We stayed in the deluxe named the Congo. It had a wonderful view of the Pacific and the Arch rock below was beautiful. We also saw a whale this year while sitting on our deck. Another person saw 2 that same day.
Don't know what kind of experience you are looking for but at Bosque I have seen Peccary, all 4 types of monkeys, huge army ant columns as well as the ever present leaf cutters, several small mammals. Wonderful birds. They have had a large cat there recently. When I was there about 4 weeks ago they said the maid saw one by one of the more remote rental houses recently. Don't think any anteaters have been seen there. Each one of the trails is different and so your chance of seeing different things is really good. Someone said there was a boa on one of them but we didn't find it.
Bosque is truly paradise and I don't even want to tell any more people about it. They only have 10 cabinas and don't want to add more so it can stay as nice as it is.
One thing I would like to mention, Bosque is about 1/2way between PJ and Carate (La Leona Sta.) You could think about a couple of nights at Look Out Inn which is right at the end of the road and you would just have the 45min beach walk to get to the entrance. Luna Lodge is there also, although set back a way, and is a lovely place. Lana is a great gal.
There is an airstrip there also (in Carate) so if you did decide to fly into the park for the longer hike you could easily. Look Out is a great place to just sit under the almond trees on the beach and watch the Scarlet Macaws. The pool is not much to get excited about.
Regarding the amount of nights at Bosque. Last year we had 5 and it took us all of that time to hike all the trails. The Pacific trail is a killer. This year we didn't feel the need to hike all of them so just hiked a couple. We were only there 4 nights and really felt shorted. We did do the hike with Philip who is the resident naturalist. It was very interesting. Unfortunately he and his Nicaraguan sweetie will be getting married and he is planning to leave Bosque for Nicaragua in about 1 year. We are hoping to get there again before he leaves.
Regarding rooms, they are all different but all are very nice. Don't know if you are going for the standard or the deluxe. We stayed in the deluxe named the Congo. It had a wonderful view of the Pacific and the Arch rock below was beautiful. We also saw a whale this year while sitting on our deck. Another person saw 2 that same day.
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#8
Joined: Feb 2003
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Didn't address the bumpy plane ride. This year we flew on the larger planes (20 seats I think) and it wasn't nearly as bumpy. Generally the flights can be a bit bumpy just on the in and out part of the central valley. Once you get over the mountains and away from the CV it smooths out and you get wonderful views of the country. I usually don't eat much when I know I am going to be flying. The trade winds pick up in the afternoon so try to fly early.
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
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Pegsimba: What a great trip report! Isn't Villa DeCary a jewel? We stayed there last July and will be returning this July (sadly, for only 1 night). Pacific Edge sounds wonderful - I'll have to put it on my list for future trips (along with Bosque del Cabo).
Terri
Terri
#11
Joined: Feb 2003
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I usually go in Feb because of the cold. For medical reasons I have trouble getting outside in cold weather.
Regarding green season, depends on when you mean. Most of the people who live there prefer it to the drier time. They tell me it is just slightly cooler and much greener and prettier. I would actually like to go in July and early Aug to see it. There will be more rain but it won't be all day. I have developed a whole different attitude as far as walking in the rain. I actually enjoy it now.
I looked into helping with the turtles at the Pearl of the Osa. They start the turtle work in late Aug and told me that it could be pretty rainy by then. Sept., Oct., and down there because of its more southerly Caribbean influence, part of Nov. can be very rainy but again not necessarily all day every day. Oct on the Caribbean side is actually their drier month.
Regarding green season, depends on when you mean. Most of the people who live there prefer it to the drier time. They tell me it is just slightly cooler and much greener and prettier. I would actually like to go in July and early Aug to see it. There will be more rain but it won't be all day. I have developed a whole different attitude as far as walking in the rain. I actually enjoy it now.
I looked into helping with the turtles at the Pearl of the Osa. They start the turtle work in late Aug and told me that it could be pretty rainy by then. Sept., Oct., and down there because of its more southerly Caribbean influence, part of Nov. can be very rainy but again not necessarily all day every day. Oct on the Caribbean side is actually their drier month.
#14
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Just a word about the Sansa flight. Going into Puerto Jimenez (my husband kept calling it Puerto mayonnaise) the flight was not bad. On the way home, we stopped briefly at Drake Bay - a little scary - they fly right at the mountains and then turn and land on a TINY, unpaved landing strip. Then going into San Jose it was a bit bumpy. But I think that will depend, somewhat on the weather. In any case, I felt it was certainly worth it!!
Not sure if one cabina at bosque is better than others. We loved Pizote, a standard cabin, because of our monkeys. There is not so much difference now between standard and deluxe since they all have electricity. A couple we met were staying in the La Paz cabin in the garden. Quite a bit cheaper and really cute, but isolated and a long hike to dinner (difficult in the dark). They loved it, though and saw a LOT of wildlife. Phil is building another cabin in the garden, i.e. away from the water.
We spent only 3 nights, but almost 4 days there. We got there early the first day and left late on the last. We were able to purchase an extra lunch for our last day. In those four days we were able to do all the hikes plus a guided hike and still have plenty of relaxing time. But we still wished for more. The food is just sooo good and the company interesting and the place so beautiful. I'm with Suzie2 - don't want it to get too crowded.
Not sure if one cabina at bosque is better than others. We loved Pizote, a standard cabin, because of our monkeys. There is not so much difference now between standard and deluxe since they all have electricity. A couple we met were staying in the La Paz cabin in the garden. Quite a bit cheaper and really cute, but isolated and a long hike to dinner (difficult in the dark). They loved it, though and saw a LOT of wildlife. Phil is building another cabin in the garden, i.e. away from the water.
We spent only 3 nights, but almost 4 days there. We got there early the first day and left late on the last. We were able to purchase an extra lunch for our last day. In those four days we were able to do all the hikes plus a guided hike and still have plenty of relaxing time. But we still wished for more. The food is just sooo good and the company interesting and the place so beautiful. I'm with Suzie2 - don't want it to get too crowded.
#16
Joined: Feb 2003
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Great trip report. I have a question pertaining to the drive from quepos to dominical. When you say bad, how bad is it? I was planning on driving that drive. Also, how is the drive through san isidro de general towards san jose. I heard it gets real scary in some places.
#17
Joined: Sep 2003
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Is Bosque all about wildlife? I found out on my Jan trip that I am not a really big wildlife fan. I did find that I liked hiking more for scenic purposes rather than trying to see that elusive quetzel or monkey. The volcanoes, waterfalls, and whitewater rafting were the best part of my trip. Just wondering were there any rivers or waterfalls around Bosque?
#18
Joined: Feb 2003
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You can hike to a waterfall down the Pacific trail and if you are really adventurous you can (if Joel is in town) do some waterfall rapelling. You can hike down to the Gulf side to go swimming in the ocean or try surfing. There is a place you can go sea kayaking. The nice thing about the Gulf trail is that they can pick you up to get back to the lodge. You can go horseback riding. You can go into town (pretty expensive taxi ride but worth it for some people) to do the sunset/mangrove tour. You go out in the afternoon during high tide and kayak around the mangroves then you head out into the Gulfo Dulce to watch the sunset. Then you have dinner in town before heading back to Bosque. Once the sun is down you can see the most incredible bioluminesense(sp?) while kayaking. Even standing on the beach you can see it at your feet and on the waves coming in. I had lots of fun watching it this year.
There is actually very little searching for things there. Most of it just comes to you. Most people got a good look at the monkeys (all 4 kinds)just sitting on their porch or just taking scenic walks. We had a troup of spider monkeys follow us while hiking. The Scarlet macaws are pretty constant.
You can see the monkeys and macaws right from the pool.
There is actually very little searching for things there. Most of it just comes to you. Most people got a good look at the monkeys (all 4 kinds)just sitting on their porch or just taking scenic walks. We had a troup of spider monkeys follow us while hiking. The Scarlet macaws are pretty constant.
You can see the monkeys and macaws right from the pool.
#19
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Joined: Sep 2003
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To Dottie - Our trip on our first day with Costa Rica Fun Expeditions was not rushed but we did see a lot. Of course, I'd love to go back and spend even more time at Poas volcanoe and the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. Our guide, Eddie, was outstanding and spoke excellent English. Since some in the group were Spanish-speaking and did not understand English he did the whole tour in both languages. We had a small group - 8 - and it was perfect. Both our meals were very good, too.
#20
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Koa - Yes, the road from Quepos to Dominical is unpaved and quite bumpy, but it is only 42 km (about 24 miles). It will take at least an hour and a half, as I remember. But the destination in Dominical - the Pacific Edge - is well worth it!! The drive from Dominical to San Isidoro and on to San Jose was not bad. Paved with some large pot holes and lots of slow truck traffic, but not scary as the guidebooks would have you believe. We had some light fog, but could see very well and there are some great views.

