Suzie2

Our almost 5 weeks down in CR went by way too fast. We had 10 days between talking to our builder and starting our tree course and did some driving around just popping in places.

We had fun with Orlando and his family for a few days before heading out on our own. Got to see a bunch of Pearl kites sitting on pineapple plants as Orlando lives (some of the time) on the edge of the huge pineapple fields in sourthern CR. Needless to say had tons of fresh pineapple to eat,yum. Saw laughing falcons and a bat falcon on dead trees in our development. That made us really happy.

House design is almost done. Tiny house with a big porch. Our builder thought I was nuts when I insisted on outdoor showers to be plumbed and finished later but then I guess he hasn't been to BdC LOL. There will also be indoor showers. We finally got to see our waterfall. Not huge but Orlando's brother is going to work on the base of it to make a nice natural piscina for me. Can't wait to get some Heliconias planted around it. Orlando and his family bought us an orange tree. Can't wait for the first oranges.

After talking to the builder we rented a car and decided to just do some spur of the moment stuff. We ended up at a darling little place up by San Gerardo de Rivas where most people go to climb Chirripo. Absolutely beautiful up there. A pretty long ride on unpaved road but worth it, we thought. It may have just seemed long because it was our first time up there and it was raining. We really enjoy small places off the main tourist track. We ended up at a place called Rio Chirripo Retreat. We were the only guests there as they had just reopened after a brief rainy season break. Dinner was a little light as they weren't really prepared for drop in guests. They made us some arroz con pollo which was very good. We had a sandwich in San Gerardo de Riva for lunch. Breakfast the next morning was wonderful. We went on a short hike up the Chirripo trail but didn't have time to go too far on this trip. It will be very easy for us to get to from our new home so we may go up and visit again.

This ended up being part of a small group of hotels scattered around the country. We spent one night there on a very comfortable bed. The people who own/run it were very nice. The views are beautiful. More suited to yoga people as they didn't really have guides for birding or nature walks. The buildings were very nice and the rooms clean and fairly simple.
http://www.charminghotels.net/en/hotels.htm

We were very surprised to see one of the places we were going to look at was a part of this group. Gem, who is a frequent poster on this board, mentioned that she was looking at a place on the Osa so we were happy to see it on the brochure. But.....before heading down to the Osa we had planned on spending some time along the Coast around Uvita or Ojochal.

There was also a place in the group in Uvita called Finca Bavaria. It is about 1/2 way between Uvita and Ojochal. More towards Uvita. It is set way back off the road through some beautiful rainforest. Again, we were the only people there except a couple, recently engaged. She worked at one of the other hotels in the group. A sweet German couple was running the place. Only about 5 rooms with beautiful ocean view and a really nice swimming pool. Squeaky clean everywhere and good German beer. Udo and Kirsten were from Germany and had visited the place a short while ago. The owner said he was tired of running it so they took over with a 3 yr lease. Her cook had not shown up for a couple of days so only breakfast was offered. Fine with us, they told us about a couple of wonderful places to eat in Ojochal and we were very happy with their suggestions. One place was a pizza place out in the middle of nowhere. We really had to keep the faith that it really was where they said it would be. The roads were horrible and hubby and I had an agreement, he would drive during the day and I would drive late afternoon and nights so he could have his Imperials. Soooo, I got the arm workout on this part of the trip. It didn't open until 6pm so I had no choice but to drive in the dark. The pizza is cooked in a huge clay, wood fired pizza oven shaped like a huge dome. Some of the best pizza I have ever had and I come from little Italy back east. So good that we had to go back for a second night. I am still a little travel weary so the names of the places that we ate here are slow to come. Will try to dig them out of my memory if anyone is interested. Our first night we also ate in Ojochal at a place that only serves a few people at a time by reservation only. The woman is French Canadian and the food was wonderful. It doesn't look like much from the road with its big Pilsen sign out front but well worth going to.

While in the area we did some birding (always), and visited the Whale tail sandbar. Not much luck birding except for a crested guan until our last afternoon. There had been a small rainshower and my husband looked out over the woods from the deck at the hotel and there was a turquois cotinga in the open on the top of a cecropia tree about 30 ft from us at just about eye level. The cameras were in the room!!!! Then we started looking harder and there were great birds everywhere. Hubby has the bird list if anyone is interested. I may type it up and put it in with my pics. We also saw some great birds around Orlando's house. One was the tiniest woodpecker in CR.

Time to move on. Gotta save time for the Osa. We headed down the coastal hwy and just before reaching Palmar Norte a jaguarundi ran across the street about 20 ft in front of us. My first, hubby's second. Wow!!! Our hearts calm down from the excitement and we continue on. Turned towards Puerto Jimenez at Chacarita and found that they had been working on the roads already and it was pretty smooth going. I know somebody in Puerto Jimenez was expecting a Toyota Prada delivered to them from Alamo-hope it wasn't anyone on here. We were making our way slowly along (gotta check for birds) when a Prada flew around us. About 5 minutes later a tico walking along with his horse and dog signaled to us to stop. He said there was a terrible accident and surely everyone in the car was dead. Hubby drove up a little further and got out where we could see tire tracks had gone off the road. I stayed in the car. Sure enough, the Prada was way down the bottom of a drop off. He was going too fast around a curve where there was loose gravel from the road work and ended up going off the road. Amazingly enough, as my husband was trying to decide what to do, a man came climbing up the side of the drop off. It was the driver and he wasn't even dirty never mind hurt. His cell phone wasn't working so we drove him to the place we were going and he was able to call his company from there to come get him and the car. We then drove him back and then continued on our journey. The place we were going was Suital Lodge just down the road. We had had the people from Finca Bavaria notify them that we were coming so they weren't totally unprepared. More beautiful rainforest that goes right down to the Gulfo dulce. The grounds and woods are beautiful here. A little tough hiking on some of the trails so bring plenty of water. Lots of streams to walk through. More good birds and another woodcreeper added to the life list. The only one we hadn't seen yet.

The couple that owns the place weren't there when we got there so the girl that worked there told us a little about the place. Very simple rustic cabins with cold water showers. Hot enough there to feel good. I loved the window that opened up with a bar so you could sit inside or out- a great place for our nightly cribbage games. The owners where there when we got back from our hike. Very nice couple. She is Swiss and he is a Tico. Only breakfast and lunch (just a sandwich) was provided as she was getting ready to leave the country to visit family with their little girl. We ate dinner at Las Ventanas about 13 kms down the road. We have eaten there several times before when traveling through to PJ so we didn't mind. Very simple typical food that is good enough. Beautiful view of the Gulfo Dulce from the porch where you eat at the restaurant.

My favorite day of the trip. We had arranged for a local to take us to the Sanctuary that day. We were scheduled for the first visitation of the day so we hustled down to the water right after breakfast. How cool! We made the hour trip over to the Sanctuary in a real dugout that had a small motor on it. Hubby and I were a little early so Earl had us make ourselves comfortable in the hammocks down by the beach. A little later he walked over and within minutes a baby spider monkey in a diaper was crawling all over my husband who was in a hammock. Another larger spider monkey showed up and joined the party. The baby (Ginger?) decided to then check me out and was fascinated by the little scrunchie in my hair and did her best to try to get it out. As we were waiting for the other people Lulu showed up and visited my husband and me for a brief couple of minutes. As Earl started the tour when the other people showed up, Lulu the howler monkey decided to climb up into my arms. She proceeded to put her head on my shoulder and then swung her arm over my shoulder as well where she took a nap for about 30 minutes in the cradle of my arms while Earl continued with the tour. The sweat was dripping off me but I wasn't about to make her get off. Ginger tried once more to get the scrunchie out before giving up. I didn't want to leave! The return trip was uneventful until we headed back up the trail. My husband looked up and saw something large, black, with a fluffy tail on a limb. We watched it for several minutes while it made itself comfortable to curl up for a nap. It was a Tolomuco! This is a very large weasel type animal that is also known as a Tayra. It was my second and my husbands first. Another fun sighting!

We decided to only stay 2 instead of the 3 nights that we had originally thought we might stay. We might consider staying longer next time if we get the chance. It was a bit buggy at that time.

Okay, an extra day unplanned. We do have reservations at Bosque de Rio Tigre for a couple of nights for some heavy birding but there is still one night to fill. Hmmmm.....
what to do? We just happened to stop by the Bosque del Cabo office. It just didn't seem right to be so close and not stay at least one night. We have been going for years and just love everyone there.

We got lucky when we went into the office in town and found that BdC had one standard cabina left for that night so we jumped on it. It was Pizote and had a beautiful ocean view. We ran into Kevin in town and got our first of many hugs. Gerly gave me a big hug and welcomed me home. After so many years of going there it does feel like home. Philip pulled up the pictures of his little one and told us about all the things he has been doing and will be doing. Jose sang that night and even Gerly joined in for one song. We met Jose about 10 years ago when he was working someplace else and have gotten to know other members of his family in different places-great people. They are all such wonderful people. Sorry we didn't get to see Kim and Phil but I am sure they were having a great time. The drive to Bosque was the worst I have ever seen it. I gladly gave up the wheel to my husband for this stretch. There were huge machines working on it so hopefully they have made some progress.

Fun is over for awhile, time to turn the car in and fly back to San Jose. We rented from Solid Rent a Car. We had a Suzuki Grand Vitara. Anything smaller would not have worked for the ride to Bosque del Cabo. A little more expensive than some but we were happy with the service. They charged us $75 to drive it from SJ to San Isidro where we met them at a restaurant. We turned it in at the Solid office in Puerto Jimenez by the airport.

3 1/2 weeks left. 2 weeks at the tree course and 4 days with my niece. to be continued...

hipvirgochick

Welcome back Suzie2! Can't wait to hear the rest of your long adventure...so much has happened already! What a way to begin your trip with the Jaguarundi and the plethora of birds. Amazing! We had a great experience at the Wildlife Sanctuary as well. Winky (the baby) kept trying to get my daughter's headband Lulu is just the sweetest, isn't she?

You are so lucky to be building down there. Some friends we met on our recent trip are in the middle of purchasing 15 hectares in Osa from one of Jose's friends. I think I'll be keeping in close touch

Thank you so much for your advice and posts that helped my daughter and I have such a wonderful trip. We returned June 4th from 2 1/2 weeks of Costa Rica bliss (report posted). I met Kim and Phil, as well as Kevin, Gerly and the gang and of course Jose! Such wonderful people. We have already reserved 5 nights next Spring break (standard cabina this time, perfectly fine for us)! BDC is a very special place

tully

Sounds like you had a great trip Suzie, glad you got to stop by BdC and get to see everyone. Wasn't Lulu just adorable? Holding her in my arms with that tail wrapped around me was just too much for words. Such soulful eyes. Sounds like your house is coming along quite nicely, love the outdoor shower.

You know I'm not a birder, but am a shopper...so when I read that a Prada flew by my first thought was someone threw a purse at you?

cmerrell

Welcome home Suzie (although, in many respects, Costa Rica is home to you as well, and will be even more so once your house is completed...).

Sounds like you had terrific birding, and how thrilling to see the jaguarundi! I would be beside myself! We got to see a couple of tayras last year on the grounds of Arenal Lodge; stealing the bananas from the bird feeders. I have a really good closeup picture of one.

Thank goodness the man in the Prada was unharmed. Too bad it wasn't a Prada handbag as tully first surmised! You could have kept it and been the most stylish lady in Puerto Jimenez!

Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your trip.

volcanogirl

Welcome back, Suzie2 - I love hearing about your adventures. You had some great animal sightings. We loved the animal sanctuary too. We have a picture of my husband holding Lulu all snuggled up.

I think it's great you're building an outdoor shower; after using the one at BdC, we said it would be great to have one at home too. It sounds like your home will be wonderful with the big porch, and waterfall, and the heliconias - your own little bit of paradise.