Highlights/Photos of Costa Rica--Shillmac
Jul 28th, 2006, 05:12 PM
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Highlights/Photos of Costa Rica--Shillmac
http://www.kodakgallery.com/AlbumMenu.jsp?
The above link should access the photos on www.kodakgallery.com. Please let me know if it doesn't work. I've uploaded about 100 of our favorites. . .
I tend to be way too long winded, so will try to just mention a few highlights and thoughts. . .
Tricolor Car Rental--rented from them 3 separate times during the month we were in the country--part of the time there was a large group, and part of the time just the 2 of us. Always very professional, totally happy (once again) with the great service and low prices.
Hotel Villa Bonita--5 min. from the airport, owned by Humberto and Carmen Brenes
---they treat us like family. Rooms very spacious, comfortable, some with large walk in closets and very roomy bathroom. It was our pleasure (and good timing) to be able to visit them at the hospital in San Jose on the afternoon of the birth of their first child, Felipe. A warmer, more hospitable bed and breakfast (and reasonably priced) would be hard to find!
Hotel Savegre de La Montana--always one of our favorite places. Great for birding, hiking, wonderful cloud forest, gorgeous waterfall, doesn't have the crowds of Monteverde, nice cabinas, good food. Melvin and Marino both excellent guides for bird watching. San Gerardo de Dota, Rio Savegre area--Quetzales very easy to find these days, Melvin tells me they are almost as abundant as sparrows here. Indeed, we could watch them most of the time from our back patio.
Manuel Antonio--Made the drive through Dominical (stopped for lunch at Rocas Verdes). Took us almost 2 hours between Dom. and MA. There was a bridge out and the road was every bit as rough as many of you have previously reported!
We stayed at Hotel Costa Verde. The rooms were not deluxe, but very nice, roomy, with outstanding views (important to specify that when making reservations). This hotel is a very good value. My only concern was that the staff was not particularly friendly or welcoming or helpful--almost without exception. The owner (whom I visited with) seemed very negative. A good hotel, but in need of a little attitude check. There were plenty of monkeys around the hotel, but some of the waiter staff in the restaurant encouraged them with food (in spite of signs asking guests not the feed the monkeys). Nothing new about that. . .I think it's been mentioned on Fodor's before.
Spent a couple of days at the beach with our daughter, 17 month old granddaughter, and her other set of grandparents. The beaches inside the park were, as always, great for swimming and gorgeous. We saw (one the beach) a dead boa, a caiman, monkeys, and a coati. Beautiful weather!
We finished up the first week back at Hotel Villa Bonita where we visited with friends in the area, took our guests to the Doka Estate Coffee Plantation, Restaurante Chubasco's (I highly recommend) near Fraijanes, spent a little time at the Bosques de Fraijanes, where Isabelle enjoyed the school children who were enjoying the park that day. Went to the new Fiesta Casino near the Hampton Inn one evening for drinks and show, had dinner and drinks another evening at Las Orquideas and the Marilyn Monroe Bar--always a fun place.
After 9 days everyone left but Jim and I, and we began Part II!
Arenal Observatory Lodge--Enjoyed our time here--birding on the property was very good. Also a nice waterfall and some good hiking trails. We found the staff to be very helpful and friendly. The 9 km of bad road getting to the hotel wasn't fun, but other than that, our experience was excellent. We were impressed that the restaurant opened early and fed those who were driving into town for early morning tours.
We stayed at La Casona with shared bathrooms. Our room was very nice, window facing the volcano (wrong side for lava flow, though), and we NEVER had a problem with the shared bathroom. $50 per night, breakfast, tax included. The front verandah looked out of Lake Arenal.
Finally went on the Cano Negro tour--wow! It was excellent. The hotel booked it for us upon arrival as well as Baldi Thermal Springs. We saw LOTS of excellent wildlife on the Rio Frio and thoroughly enjoyed the hot springs at Baldi--including the massage at the spa! Found it to be an excellent alternative to Tabacon (and you guys know I enjoy Tabacon!). The more I think about it, the more unreasonable it seems to spend time in that danger zone! There was some construction going on at Baldi, and I think they will have a hotel on the property open by next year.
Enjoyed El Novillo steakhouse, where we got an excellent Fourth of July show from Volcan Arenal. Best fireworks display ever! Also had a good meal at Don Rufino's in La Fortuna. . . .
La Carolina Lodge, near Bijagues--although we drove around the lake to get there (and SHOULD have gone north out of La Fortuna/Tanque up to Upala and down--much shorter), we enjoyed the drive. Found the road around the lake to be in decent condition, mostly well paved, but with 5-6 stretches lacking pavement and a little rough. Not as bad as we remembered.
La Carolina isn't for everyone, but for 2 nights, we loved it. No electricity, no English, food cooked on a wood burning stove, candles lit on the property and in the cabins every evening around 5:30 by one of the 3 ladies who work there. Hot showers (thanks to propane tanks), wonderful jacuzzi down by the cold, cold river. Heated with coils around a wood burning stove. . .neatest thing we ever saw! Very large, and nice and hot! Alejandro was our guide on a 4-5 hour hike at Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio-- we communicated just fine and he was so proud to show us the gorgeous blue Rio Celeste, the waterfalls, and all of the other beauty of the area. Later in the afternoon, he took us horseback riding through the pastures. Birding was WONDERFUL at La Carolina--I added several new ones to my growing list. Approx $50 per person per day, all food, riding, hiking included. Owned by Bill Harwell, South Carolina, managed by 3 men and 3 women--all were warm, friendly, welcoming, and helpful. It was a delightful experience!
Playa Hermosa--4 nights here. Stayed at Villas del Sueno--not the best location (5 min from the beach), but a nice hotel. We though the restaurant a little overpriced (and didn't eat there except for breakfast). Most entrees were about $17 or $18--they may have been wonderful--can't comment on that. We were usually out and about. Spent our days exploring nearby beaches, including Ocotal, Playas del Coco, Playa Panama. One day we drove down to Flamingo (one of our favorite places) for massages (and hair color!) with Chris and Carolina at Flamingo Beach Resort. Also visited Tamarindo and Playa Grande. The roads were absolutely atrocious between Belen and Huacas, between Brasilito and Flamingo, and on the way to Playa Grande from Matapalo. Unbelievably bad, and you know I usually don't complain about the roads. . . .
Another day we took the Congo Trail (starts near Sardinal) down to Playa Potrero. We were amazed! It was much better than the highway conditions, and we got there in half the time it took us earlier. And in the rainy season. . .Until the highways get worked on, I'd definitely recommend this little country road over the alternative, highway 21 out of Liberia!
The little bakery at Playa Potrero is getting a facelift. . still serving excellent food and adding an outdoor seating area. . .when finished, it will be an nice improvement.
Visited Playa Langosta for the first time. . .just gotta say we didn't think we'd be surprised, but we WERE with all the development from Hermosa to Langosta (and beyond). Tamarindo was unbelievably crowded- Just when I thought it couldn't get much worse. . .! And Brasilito will virtually disappear with the building of the Hyatt Regency that is projected for 2008 (I think). While we were in CR (and after we visited Playa Grande) we read that the government has given in to developers in the area of Playa Grande, and they now have permission to go ahead with the development their, leatherbacks be damned! Seems they've decided that most of the harm is done at sea and what happens on land won't worsen the problem. . .
LOVED eating at Ginger in Playa Hermosa--excellent bocas bar. Met the owner, very friendly fellow. Nice place. Don't miss it if you are in the area. . .
Planned a day of hiking at Rincon de la Vieja, but I had a little virus of some sort and ZERO energy. I put one foot in front of the other one for about 15 minutes and called it quits. Then the rain began. This was the rainiest day we had, so if I had to be sick, I guess this was the day to be sick! We drove up to La Cruz, looked around, caught the tail end of the France-Italy World Cup finals at Restaurante Paso Real in Liberia. Traveling to Rincon de la Vieja (I wish I'd paid more attention to previous posts), it's much better to take the SECOND road out of Liberia. We took the first and it was long and difficult up to Hotel Guachipelin (I probably misspelled that). Next time, we'll take the road that leads up to Hotel Borinquen and that area.
More later. . . . .just want to say "thank you so much" to all whose posts on Fodor's helped us choose some great locations and hotels. . .Molly2, thanks for recommending Arenal Observatory Lodge and La Casona; ticatraveler, if you're reading this, your post a couple of years ago led us to La Carolina--thanks! Papagayo, thanks for info about Villas del Sueno. . .Neta, although more smiles would be nice, Hotel Costa Verde has got to offer one of the best views in Manuel Antonio--thank you for your help! And Latitude9Lisa in Manuel Antonio (and Harry)--thank you so much for stocking that fridge and sharing your time with us at Costa Verde. . .
The above link should access the photos on www.kodakgallery.com. Please let me know if it doesn't work. I've uploaded about 100 of our favorites. . .
I tend to be way too long winded, so will try to just mention a few highlights and thoughts. . .
Tricolor Car Rental--rented from them 3 separate times during the month we were in the country--part of the time there was a large group, and part of the time just the 2 of us. Always very professional, totally happy (once again) with the great service and low prices.
Hotel Villa Bonita--5 min. from the airport, owned by Humberto and Carmen Brenes
---they treat us like family. Rooms very spacious, comfortable, some with large walk in closets and very roomy bathroom. It was our pleasure (and good timing) to be able to visit them at the hospital in San Jose on the afternoon of the birth of their first child, Felipe. A warmer, more hospitable bed and breakfast (and reasonably priced) would be hard to find!
Hotel Savegre de La Montana--always one of our favorite places. Great for birding, hiking, wonderful cloud forest, gorgeous waterfall, doesn't have the crowds of Monteverde, nice cabinas, good food. Melvin and Marino both excellent guides for bird watching. San Gerardo de Dota, Rio Savegre area--Quetzales very easy to find these days, Melvin tells me they are almost as abundant as sparrows here. Indeed, we could watch them most of the time from our back patio.
Manuel Antonio--Made the drive through Dominical (stopped for lunch at Rocas Verdes). Took us almost 2 hours between Dom. and MA. There was a bridge out and the road was every bit as rough as many of you have previously reported!
We stayed at Hotel Costa Verde. The rooms were not deluxe, but very nice, roomy, with outstanding views (important to specify that when making reservations). This hotel is a very good value. My only concern was that the staff was not particularly friendly or welcoming or helpful--almost without exception. The owner (whom I visited with) seemed very negative. A good hotel, but in need of a little attitude check. There were plenty of monkeys around the hotel, but some of the waiter staff in the restaurant encouraged them with food (in spite of signs asking guests not the feed the monkeys). Nothing new about that. . .I think it's been mentioned on Fodor's before.
Spent a couple of days at the beach with our daughter, 17 month old granddaughter, and her other set of grandparents. The beaches inside the park were, as always, great for swimming and gorgeous. We saw (one the beach) a dead boa, a caiman, monkeys, and a coati. Beautiful weather!
We finished up the first week back at Hotel Villa Bonita where we visited with friends in the area, took our guests to the Doka Estate Coffee Plantation, Restaurante Chubasco's (I highly recommend) near Fraijanes, spent a little time at the Bosques de Fraijanes, where Isabelle enjoyed the school children who were enjoying the park that day. Went to the new Fiesta Casino near the Hampton Inn one evening for drinks and show, had dinner and drinks another evening at Las Orquideas and the Marilyn Monroe Bar--always a fun place.
After 9 days everyone left but Jim and I, and we began Part II!
Arenal Observatory Lodge--Enjoyed our time here--birding on the property was very good. Also a nice waterfall and some good hiking trails. We found the staff to be very helpful and friendly. The 9 km of bad road getting to the hotel wasn't fun, but other than that, our experience was excellent. We were impressed that the restaurant opened early and fed those who were driving into town for early morning tours.
We stayed at La Casona with shared bathrooms. Our room was very nice, window facing the volcano (wrong side for lava flow, though), and we NEVER had a problem with the shared bathroom. $50 per night, breakfast, tax included. The front verandah looked out of Lake Arenal.
Finally went on the Cano Negro tour--wow! It was excellent. The hotel booked it for us upon arrival as well as Baldi Thermal Springs. We saw LOTS of excellent wildlife on the Rio Frio and thoroughly enjoyed the hot springs at Baldi--including the massage at the spa! Found it to be an excellent alternative to Tabacon (and you guys know I enjoy Tabacon!). The more I think about it, the more unreasonable it seems to spend time in that danger zone! There was some construction going on at Baldi, and I think they will have a hotel on the property open by next year.
Enjoyed El Novillo steakhouse, where we got an excellent Fourth of July show from Volcan Arenal. Best fireworks display ever! Also had a good meal at Don Rufino's in La Fortuna. . . .
La Carolina Lodge, near Bijagues--although we drove around the lake to get there (and SHOULD have gone north out of La Fortuna/Tanque up to Upala and down--much shorter), we enjoyed the drive. Found the road around the lake to be in decent condition, mostly well paved, but with 5-6 stretches lacking pavement and a little rough. Not as bad as we remembered.
La Carolina isn't for everyone, but for 2 nights, we loved it. No electricity, no English, food cooked on a wood burning stove, candles lit on the property and in the cabins every evening around 5:30 by one of the 3 ladies who work there. Hot showers (thanks to propane tanks), wonderful jacuzzi down by the cold, cold river. Heated with coils around a wood burning stove. . .neatest thing we ever saw! Very large, and nice and hot! Alejandro was our guide on a 4-5 hour hike at Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio-- we communicated just fine and he was so proud to show us the gorgeous blue Rio Celeste, the waterfalls, and all of the other beauty of the area. Later in the afternoon, he took us horseback riding through the pastures. Birding was WONDERFUL at La Carolina--I added several new ones to my growing list. Approx $50 per person per day, all food, riding, hiking included. Owned by Bill Harwell, South Carolina, managed by 3 men and 3 women--all were warm, friendly, welcoming, and helpful. It was a delightful experience!
Playa Hermosa--4 nights here. Stayed at Villas del Sueno--not the best location (5 min from the beach), but a nice hotel. We though the restaurant a little overpriced (and didn't eat there except for breakfast). Most entrees were about $17 or $18--they may have been wonderful--can't comment on that. We were usually out and about. Spent our days exploring nearby beaches, including Ocotal, Playas del Coco, Playa Panama. One day we drove down to Flamingo (one of our favorite places) for massages (and hair color!) with Chris and Carolina at Flamingo Beach Resort. Also visited Tamarindo and Playa Grande. The roads were absolutely atrocious between Belen and Huacas, between Brasilito and Flamingo, and on the way to Playa Grande from Matapalo. Unbelievably bad, and you know I usually don't complain about the roads. . . .
Another day we took the Congo Trail (starts near Sardinal) down to Playa Potrero. We were amazed! It was much better than the highway conditions, and we got there in half the time it took us earlier. And in the rainy season. . .Until the highways get worked on, I'd definitely recommend this little country road over the alternative, highway 21 out of Liberia!
The little bakery at Playa Potrero is getting a facelift. . still serving excellent food and adding an outdoor seating area. . .when finished, it will be an nice improvement.
Visited Playa Langosta for the first time. . .just gotta say we didn't think we'd be surprised, but we WERE with all the development from Hermosa to Langosta (and beyond). Tamarindo was unbelievably crowded- Just when I thought it couldn't get much worse. . .! And Brasilito will virtually disappear with the building of the Hyatt Regency that is projected for 2008 (I think). While we were in CR (and after we visited Playa Grande) we read that the government has given in to developers in the area of Playa Grande, and they now have permission to go ahead with the development their, leatherbacks be damned! Seems they've decided that most of the harm is done at sea and what happens on land won't worsen the problem. . .
LOVED eating at Ginger in Playa Hermosa--excellent bocas bar. Met the owner, very friendly fellow. Nice place. Don't miss it if you are in the area. . .
Planned a day of hiking at Rincon de la Vieja, but I had a little virus of some sort and ZERO energy. I put one foot in front of the other one for about 15 minutes and called it quits. Then the rain began. This was the rainiest day we had, so if I had to be sick, I guess this was the day to be sick! We drove up to La Cruz, looked around, caught the tail end of the France-Italy World Cup finals at Restaurante Paso Real in Liberia. Traveling to Rincon de la Vieja (I wish I'd paid more attention to previous posts), it's much better to take the SECOND road out of Liberia. We took the first and it was long and difficult up to Hotel Guachipelin (I probably misspelled that). Next time, we'll take the road that leads up to Hotel Borinquen and that area.
More later. . . . .just want to say "thank you so much" to all whose posts on Fodor's helped us choose some great locations and hotels. . .Molly2, thanks for recommending Arenal Observatory Lodge and La Casona; ticatraveler, if you're reading this, your post a couple of years ago led us to La Carolina--thanks! Papagayo, thanks for info about Villas del Sueno. . .Neta, although more smiles would be nice, Hotel Costa Verde has got to offer one of the best views in Manuel Antonio--thank you for your help! And Latitude9Lisa in Manuel Antonio (and Harry)--thank you so much for stocking that fridge and sharing your time with us at Costa Verde. . .
Jul 28th, 2006, 05:56 PM
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Just discovered my "system" for viewing photos doesn't work as I thought it would--I'd be happy to send anyone an e-mail for viewing.
[email protected]
[email protected]
Jul 28th, 2006, 06:55 PM
#3
Hi shillmac
Thanks for the nice report and a summary of your Costa Rica adventure.
I agree that Gingers is a nice place and yes the second the second road out of Liberia to hotel Borinquen is better.
Hmmm, looks like the big hotel chains are slowly coming into the Pacific Costa Rica region.. in 10 years it will start to look like Cancun.!!
Yes I would like to see the album photos
Take Care
Percy
Thanks for the nice report and a summary of your Costa Rica adventure.
I agree that Gingers is a nice place and yes the second the second road out of Liberia to hotel Borinquen is better.
Hmmm, looks like the big hotel chains are slowly coming into the Pacific Costa Rica region.. in 10 years it will start to look like Cancun.!!
Yes I would like to see the album photos
Take Care
Percy
Jul 28th, 2006, 07:51 PM
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I don't think it will take 10 years! It is definitely changing the landscape and the mindset. I suspect those who work the tourism industry in the more crowded areas (Manuel Antonio, for example) are becoming a little "jaded" (for lack of a better word) and perhaps somewhat stressed by all the busy-ness, resulting in less "pura vida" toward the tourists and more aggravation. Not everywhere of course, but I don't know how to explain an entire hotel staff (from the front desk to the wait staff) being generally unpleasant--something wrong somewhere.
Photos coming right up. How's the weather up there? Our extreme highs have retreated for the time being. . .
Photos coming right up. How's the weather up there? Our extreme highs have retreated for the time being. . .
Jul 28th, 2006, 10:19 PM
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Thanks for the report Shillmac. Sounds like another fine CR journey.
Seawithch1 recently posted directions on how she was able to give access to all us Fodorites her Kodak galleries. She posted this on Bill Adams trip report titled" Costa Rica Trip Reort (Part 1)" Bill used her method and opened his galleries for us also. Much easier than everyone sending you an e-mail and you listeng them as guests. Tonight it is near post 20 about halfway down the thread if you care to look.
Seawithch1 recently posted directions on how she was able to give access to all us Fodorites her Kodak galleries. She posted this on Bill Adams trip report titled" Costa Rica Trip Reort (Part 1)" Bill used her method and opened his galleries for us also. Much easier than everyone sending you an e-mail and you listeng them as guests. Tonight it is near post 20 about halfway down the thread if you care to look.
Jul 29th, 2006, 04:32 AM
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http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
Okay. . .thanks Earthtraveler for the help. This is the link that I found to highlight. Why is it so long??? I'll go ahead and post it and see if it works.
Okay. . .thanks Earthtraveler for the help. This is the link that I found to highlight. Why is it so long??? I'll go ahead and post it and see if it works.
Jul 29th, 2006, 05:02 AM
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Awesome pics! I especially love the one of Isabelle all covered in sand doing a headstand of shorts - too cute. Where were the pics of the bromeliads taken? Like the look of that area. You had pics of Volcan Tenorio, thats the exact place my friend is building a finca, it's right in their back yard. Now you can listen to your cd to recall those congos waking you up in the a.m.!
Jul 29th, 2006, 05:12 AM
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that would be 'of sorts' not of shorts!
forgot to mention, if you search around for my pic post, I put the ones from BdC in there with pics of Mariposa (unfortunately by that time I was on the film camera & they didn't come out too good and the pic of the marvelous bathtub is missing) but just to give you an idea for when you go!
forgot to mention, if you search around for my pic post, I put the ones from BdC in there with pics of Mariposa (unfortunately by that time I was on the film camera & they didn't come out too good and the pic of the marvelous bathtub is missing) but just to give you an idea for when you go!
Jul 29th, 2006, 05:23 AM
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Hi Tully!
I've not read your trip post or seen your photos. . .I'll go searching. Do you remember the name of the thread?
We had such a good time with Isabelle--what a wonderland for kids down there--and adults!
The bromeliads were at Savegre Hotel--taken while I was birding with Melvin.
Volcan Tenorio (and area) was a great location. The road around Bijaguas was extremely potholed, and the going was slow, but driving up between those 2 volcanoes provided nice viewing. We both commented that it would be a good area to live.
Yep, listening the the "natural sounds" right now. I bought another CD of calypso songs by an old guy named Walter Ferguson--it was on sale all over the country, figured it must be good. My husband won't let me play it. Hard to explain, but all the songs sound the same!
Ok. . .looking for your photos. . .
I've not read your trip post or seen your photos. . .I'll go searching. Do you remember the name of the thread?
We had such a good time with Isabelle--what a wonderland for kids down there--and adults!
The bromeliads were at Savegre Hotel--taken while I was birding with Melvin.
Volcan Tenorio (and area) was a great location. The road around Bijaguas was extremely potholed, and the going was slow, but driving up between those 2 volcanoes provided nice viewing. We both commented that it would be a good area to live.
Yep, listening the the "natural sounds" right now. I bought another CD of calypso songs by an old guy named Walter Ferguson--it was on sale all over the country, figured it must be good. My husband won't let me play it. Hard to explain, but all the songs sound the same!
Ok. . .looking for your photos. . .
Jul 29th, 2006, 06:43 PM
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Thanks--Isabelle provides a lot of sunshine in our lives!
I'm going to pick up where I left off and finish this up. Wish I had the energy to be witty and humorous!
We drove from Playa Hermosa back to Alajuela and Hotel Villa Bonita on July 10. Arrived to find that Humberto and Carmen were in San Jose at the hospital giving birth to little Felipe and had left a message for us to come if we wanted. . .well, of course we wanted!
This was our first experience inside a Costa Rican hospital (with the exception of the hospital in Nicoya) and we were impressed. Of course, Clinica Biblica is a private hospital, and that probably makes a little difference, but we were impressed to find that Carmen had a plasma TV on her wall! And there was a bank in the hospital--now how convenient would that be?!
Carmen and little Felipe were in great shape, and Humberto was quite an excited and proud papi. It was a real joy for us to be able to share that moment with them. It had been exactly one year since we had last stayed with them (with our daughter and Isabelle, 5 months old at the time). They had told us then that they were ready to start their family, so it seemed altogether fitting for us to be able to share that experience with them!
Next morning, bright and early, we taxied to Pavas for our NatureAir flight to Bocas del Toro. We had a one way ticket and plans to take the water taxi and bus back to Costa Rica.
The flight went well, although flying isn't my thing and flying in a small aircraft certainly doesn't give me the warm fuzzies. It didn't help that the lady a couple of seats in front of us kept studying the emergency plans. . .
This is a new route for NatureAir, and we were so glad not to have to spend the entire day riding buses and taxis. We passed over some gorgeous country--that entire Talamanca range and Parque Nacional La Amistad. It was amazing to look down and see so many rivers, all white water, and a magnificent waterfall. It looked so tall and the spray so wide from high above that I was sure it must have been really something at eye level!
Arrived Bocas del Toro at 11:00 after a one hour flight. We'd had to pay the $26 exit tax at Pavas before receiving our boarding passes. . I'd not thought about that! At the airport in BdT, we had to buy a couple of stamps to present to the immigration person. I forget what the cost was, but they went into our passports. We took a taxi into town to Taxi 25 (a water taxi dock) which in turn ferried us on over to Isla Caranero, where we had chosen to stay. It was about a 2 minute ride and cost us $1 per person each time we taxied back and forth.
Our hotel was Dona Mara, selected because of a Fodor post by cmfong a few months ago telling how much his friend had liked BdT. We liked the sound of the hotel in the post and it turned out to be an excellent value. The obvious place to stay on Caranero is Bucaneer Resort, but the people we spoke with who stayed there felt that it was overpriced. Hotel Dona Mara cost us $45 per night, breakfast and tax included. We had hot water, AC, a comfortable bed, and a TV. It was right on the beach. . .not a beach for hanging out or swimming necessarily, but the view from our window was nice. Breakfast was small, consisted of toast, fruit (one morning), and coffee.
We were here 4 nights. We spent a lot of time on Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro town, walking, eating, having a drink, browsing the shops, using the internet cafe, etc. One afternoon we took a taxi to Bocas del Drago, a very nice beach on Isla Colon and about a 20 minute taxi ride from town. Told our driver we'd be ready to return in 3 hours, and he was right on time to pick us up. This was the norm with the water taxis as well.
We booked a full day tour with J&J Boat Tours for $17 per person. It included dolphin watching, snorkeling at Crawl Cay, lunch at Crawl Cay, afternoon at Red Frog Beach (Isla Bastamiento), and then snorkeling at Hospital Point. It was a good tour. . .the coral was beautiful. The weather was excellent. It rained almost every night (stormed one night) and until about 9:00 or 10:00 in the morning, then would clear off for the day.
Another day we took a water taxi over to Isla Bastamiento. Enjoyed eating part of our meal at the Red Rooster and the rest of it at Roots, the two restaurants being side by side.
The morning we left on a 9:30 water taxi to the Panamanian mainland, we awoke to clear skies.
The boat ride over to the mainland was fast and we cut through narrow water ways across little peninsulas, then into open bays, then back through land again. Arrived at Changuinola 45 min. or an hour. From there we opted to get a taxi to the border for $20. Once at the border, our taxi driver watched our bags for us while we did the paperwork, then walked with us over the bridge of the Rio Sixaola to assist us on the other side. We had to be able to show customs in Costa Rica that we had a ticket to leave Costa Rica. I happened to have a paper ticket for our flight back to the U.S., but my husband didn't and we didn't have a copy of his e-ticket with us. He had to go to a little farmacia next door and purchase a $9 bus ticket to Panama. . .just to show that he wasn't staying indefinitely in Costa Rica. It was an interesting process and was inconvenient, but made sense. I'm pretty sure people entering our country have to prove (at least on paper) that they have made arrangements to leave as well!
We hired another taxi to get us to Puerto Viejo for about $35. The bus from Changuinola to Puerto Viejo would, of course, have been cheaper, but much slower. Getting across the border would have been more laborious.
Next post, back in Costa Rica. . .
I'm going to pick up where I left off and finish this up. Wish I had the energy to be witty and humorous!
We drove from Playa Hermosa back to Alajuela and Hotel Villa Bonita on July 10. Arrived to find that Humberto and Carmen were in San Jose at the hospital giving birth to little Felipe and had left a message for us to come if we wanted. . .well, of course we wanted!
This was our first experience inside a Costa Rican hospital (with the exception of the hospital in Nicoya) and we were impressed. Of course, Clinica Biblica is a private hospital, and that probably makes a little difference, but we were impressed to find that Carmen had a plasma TV on her wall! And there was a bank in the hospital--now how convenient would that be?!
Carmen and little Felipe were in great shape, and Humberto was quite an excited and proud papi. It was a real joy for us to be able to share that moment with them. It had been exactly one year since we had last stayed with them (with our daughter and Isabelle, 5 months old at the time). They had told us then that they were ready to start their family, so it seemed altogether fitting for us to be able to share that experience with them!
Next morning, bright and early, we taxied to Pavas for our NatureAir flight to Bocas del Toro. We had a one way ticket and plans to take the water taxi and bus back to Costa Rica.
The flight went well, although flying isn't my thing and flying in a small aircraft certainly doesn't give me the warm fuzzies. It didn't help that the lady a couple of seats in front of us kept studying the emergency plans. . .
This is a new route for NatureAir, and we were so glad not to have to spend the entire day riding buses and taxis. We passed over some gorgeous country--that entire Talamanca range and Parque Nacional La Amistad. It was amazing to look down and see so many rivers, all white water, and a magnificent waterfall. It looked so tall and the spray so wide from high above that I was sure it must have been really something at eye level!
Arrived Bocas del Toro at 11:00 after a one hour flight. We'd had to pay the $26 exit tax at Pavas before receiving our boarding passes. . I'd not thought about that! At the airport in BdT, we had to buy a couple of stamps to present to the immigration person. I forget what the cost was, but they went into our passports. We took a taxi into town to Taxi 25 (a water taxi dock) which in turn ferried us on over to Isla Caranero, where we had chosen to stay. It was about a 2 minute ride and cost us $1 per person each time we taxied back and forth.
Our hotel was Dona Mara, selected because of a Fodor post by cmfong a few months ago telling how much his friend had liked BdT. We liked the sound of the hotel in the post and it turned out to be an excellent value. The obvious place to stay on Caranero is Bucaneer Resort, but the people we spoke with who stayed there felt that it was overpriced. Hotel Dona Mara cost us $45 per night, breakfast and tax included. We had hot water, AC, a comfortable bed, and a TV. It was right on the beach. . .not a beach for hanging out or swimming necessarily, but the view from our window was nice. Breakfast was small, consisted of toast, fruit (one morning), and coffee.
We were here 4 nights. We spent a lot of time on Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro town, walking, eating, having a drink, browsing the shops, using the internet cafe, etc. One afternoon we took a taxi to Bocas del Drago, a very nice beach on Isla Colon and about a 20 minute taxi ride from town. Told our driver we'd be ready to return in 3 hours, and he was right on time to pick us up. This was the norm with the water taxis as well.
We booked a full day tour with J&J Boat Tours for $17 per person. It included dolphin watching, snorkeling at Crawl Cay, lunch at Crawl Cay, afternoon at Red Frog Beach (Isla Bastamiento), and then snorkeling at Hospital Point. It was a good tour. . .the coral was beautiful. The weather was excellent. It rained almost every night (stormed one night) and until about 9:00 or 10:00 in the morning, then would clear off for the day.
Another day we took a water taxi over to Isla Bastamiento. Enjoyed eating part of our meal at the Red Rooster and the rest of it at Roots, the two restaurants being side by side.
The morning we left on a 9:30 water taxi to the Panamanian mainland, we awoke to clear skies.
The boat ride over to the mainland was fast and we cut through narrow water ways across little peninsulas, then into open bays, then back through land again. Arrived at Changuinola 45 min. or an hour. From there we opted to get a taxi to the border for $20. Once at the border, our taxi driver watched our bags for us while we did the paperwork, then walked with us over the bridge of the Rio Sixaola to assist us on the other side. We had to be able to show customs in Costa Rica that we had a ticket to leave Costa Rica. I happened to have a paper ticket for our flight back to the U.S., but my husband didn't and we didn't have a copy of his e-ticket with us. He had to go to a little farmacia next door and purchase a $9 bus ticket to Panama. . .just to show that he wasn't staying indefinitely in Costa Rica. It was an interesting process and was inconvenient, but made sense. I'm pretty sure people entering our country have to prove (at least on paper) that they have made arrangements to leave as well!
We hired another taxi to get us to Puerto Viejo for about $35. The bus from Changuinola to Puerto Viejo would, of course, have been cheaper, but much slower. Getting across the border would have been more laborious.
Next post, back in Costa Rica. . .
Jul 29th, 2006, 08:42 PM
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Meanwhile, back in Costa Rica. . .
Azania Bungalows--beautiful property, with a queen, twin, and loft with another twin. Gorgeous pool, not sure about the restaurant. I missed breakfast both mornings (my husband said it was good!), and we ate dinner elsewhere both nights. We were a little perturbed because we had to leave at 7:00 a.m. our last morning, and breakfast wasn't served until 8:00. That is too late to BEGIN breakfast and there was no offer for a bite of anything--or even a cup of coffee. Nice hotel, but could have been a whole lot more accomodating in small ways.
Highlights Puerto Viejo:
Bicycling between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo (about 16 km)
Dinner at La Pecora Nera--surely one of the best restaurants in the country
Birding with Abel Bustamante. . 6 hours, $30. For those of you planning to spend time in PV and wanting a guide for birding or wildlife viewing or hiking Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Reserve, he's your man. Very intelligent, knowledgeable, personal, fun, excellent English. I was able to add 10-12 new birds to my list and reacquaint myself with some old feathered friends. We also saw 3 species of monkeys, a snake (of some kind or another!), poison dart frogs, 3-4 sloths. You can find Abel in the town of Manzanillo or e-mail him at [email protected]. I have his phone number, also. . somewhere!
Watching the surfing competition on the beach across the street from Azania at Playa Cocles. . .tons of people, blue skies, daring bodies on boards, loud speaker blaring reggae and announcing results, and Imperials in our hands. . .I've spent worse afternoons. . . .
Dinner at Totem Restaurant (and small hotel). . .a very pleasant surprise. .highly recommended.
Massage by Walter. . .don't remember his last name, and it doesn't even matter. Met him last year when staying at Aguas Claras. The owner, Flore, knew him (and could locate him for you still) and set us up with appointments on the beach. This year he came to Azania and relieved our aching bicycling muscles! Almost. . .
Good news and bad news: after being unable to use the ATM machines on Bocas and discovering that the bank didn't offer the "cash for check card" service, we arrived BROKE in PV. It was the weekend, the bank was closed, but we found some cabinas that processed our check card and gave us money with a 9% charge. We were just glad to find that place!
Next up. . .Tortuguero
Azania Bungalows--beautiful property, with a queen, twin, and loft with another twin. Gorgeous pool, not sure about the restaurant. I missed breakfast both mornings (my husband said it was good!), and we ate dinner elsewhere both nights. We were a little perturbed because we had to leave at 7:00 a.m. our last morning, and breakfast wasn't served until 8:00. That is too late to BEGIN breakfast and there was no offer for a bite of anything--or even a cup of coffee. Nice hotel, but could have been a whole lot more accomodating in small ways.
Highlights Puerto Viejo:
Bicycling between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo (about 16 km)
Dinner at La Pecora Nera--surely one of the best restaurants in the country
Birding with Abel Bustamante. . 6 hours, $30. For those of you planning to spend time in PV and wanting a guide for birding or wildlife viewing or hiking Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Reserve, he's your man. Very intelligent, knowledgeable, personal, fun, excellent English. I was able to add 10-12 new birds to my list and reacquaint myself with some old feathered friends. We also saw 3 species of monkeys, a snake (of some kind or another!), poison dart frogs, 3-4 sloths. You can find Abel in the town of Manzanillo or e-mail him at [email protected]. I have his phone number, also. . somewhere!
Watching the surfing competition on the beach across the street from Azania at Playa Cocles. . .tons of people, blue skies, daring bodies on boards, loud speaker blaring reggae and announcing results, and Imperials in our hands. . .I've spent worse afternoons. . . .
Dinner at Totem Restaurant (and small hotel). . .a very pleasant surprise. .highly recommended.
Massage by Walter. . .don't remember his last name, and it doesn't even matter. Met him last year when staying at Aguas Claras. The owner, Flore, knew him (and could locate him for you still) and set us up with appointments on the beach. This year he came to Azania and relieved our aching bicycling muscles! Almost. . .
Good news and bad news: after being unable to use the ATM machines on Bocas and discovering that the bank didn't offer the "cash for check card" service, we arrived BROKE in PV. It was the weekend, the bank was closed, but we found some cabinas that processed our check card and gave us money with a 9% charge. We were just glad to find that place!
Next up. . .Tortuguero
Jul 30th, 2006, 05:53 PM
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Tortuguero Tales---
We had scheduled our 2 nights in Tortuguero at the end of our trip hoping that later in July, we'd have more chance of seeing turtles. It worked! Watching the large green turtle deposit her eggs was surely a highlight of all our trips to Costa Rica. We only saw one, and almost missed that. We had hiked almost 2 miles down the beach in the dark, single file, the only light provided by the raging Caribbean and all its white water. It was only on the way back that another guide found the tracks and our 2 small groups took turns observing, but only after she had finished digging and the laying had begun. The next day, we saw 6-7 sets of tracks.
Lodge: Laguna Lodge--good food, comfortable, if basic, room. Very nice swimming pool
Tour Group: Modesto and Fran Watson, who operate the Riverboat Francesca--Molly2 on Fodor's had recommended them to us, and we were so pleased with all aspects of our package, from early communications, right up until Fran delivered us back into San Jose. Modesto had been raised on the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua, and he and Fran met when she (a Minnesota girl) was there working with the Miskito (?) Indians. They've been married many years and operating the Tortuguero Canal Tours for 18, I think.
Delightful couple, very friendly and personable.
We enjoyed Tortuguero town--spent some time there the afternoon we arrived.
2 riverboat tours with Modesto on our full day--one at 6:00 a.m., the other at 3:00 p.m.--both a couple of hours. The day was beautiful with blue skies. We felt so blessed to avoid rain that day especially.
We also spent some time walking into town along the beach, hanging by the pool, and napping. I could spend a lot of days doing just those things! Absolutely loved spending time on the boat seeing so much up and down the rivers.
The boa in the small tree by the boat launch the morning we left was a real treat--such a great photo op.
The 3.5 hours to Tortuguero and back out was most enjoyable, taking plenty of time to look at wildlife both trips.
We had taken a taxi from Puerto Viejo for $50. Hired a young man who turned out to be very safe, careful, and pleasant to visit with. We arrived at the wharf in Moin about 8:45 after leaving PV at 7:00. The others in our group (about 10) had come from San Jose with Fran. It was interesting to meet so many people--New York, France, Latvia, England (living in Moscow), and Spain. And us. Costa Rica is really and truly becoming more and more of a world class destination.
I wrote earlier of our return to San Jose (some had returned the day before, so there were only 5 of us in the van). We had opted for the 2 night package rather than one night. I can't imagine doing it any other way. One night definitely not enough!
The taxi strike was a nuisance as we got into it right after pulling onto the highway out of Moin. Fianlly, after being held up for a long while, Fran very cooly, calmly and wisely followed a big bus off the highway and down a very rough road that ran parallel, but out of sight, of the highway. The bus was able to move along faster than us and soon disappeared. After awhile we headed back up toward the highway just as two taxies came tearing down the highway from the east and pulled up on both sides. We could see more coming. Fran gunned the motor, came flying off that side road, turning onto the highway at full speed, and narrowly escaped being blocked again. We clapped and cheered as we watched the highway lock up in our rearview. BARELY did we make it! Just another wild adventure to add to a long list!
Back in San Jose, we hired a taxi to take us to Alajuela where we had a rental car waiting. I'm telling you we've been in a few taxis, but this guy's car was barely running and I swear he was blind. He'd drive in 2 lanes, then honk at the trucks and busses he thought were about to sideswipe him. We both breathed sighs of relief when we alighted safely!
We'd left most of our luggage at Hotel Villa Bonita, and believe me, after 10 days we were needed some changes! Spent some time visiting with Humberto, Carmen, and cuddling baby Felipe, we made our way out to Vista del Valle. Although we nearly always stay at Hotel Villa Bonita (it is so close to the airport and the our familia Tica we always visit with), we had wanted to try VdV for a long time. We'd thought we would have the afternoon there to relax and enjoy, but the taxistas took care of that! We arrived about 7:00, so tired with barely enough energy to change and drag ourselves to dinner. The meal was very good and the showers and comfortable bed in Ilan Ilan very welcome at the end of a long and eventful day!
Fortunately our flight wasn't until 1:00, so we were able to get up early, enjoy the outdoor shower some more, hike down that perilous path to the waterfall (those ladders!) and otherwise explore the property. Visited with Johanna over breakfast, and left later than we intended.
We made a quick trip into San Joaquin to say goodbye to our familia Tica, then dropped the car at Tricolor. Arrived at the airport at 11:00. It being a Thursday, this was plenty of time, and we were grateful the airport wasn't crowded.
We had so much luggage, returning with 70 bags of coffee and a few this and thats, and we were especially grateful to the young man who loaded it up, walked us through the airport, actually FILLED OUT our declarations forms for us, and dropped us off at the ticket counter! Pura Vida, for sure!
Again, muchas gracias to all who shared information with us during our planning. I can't imagine how we could have had a better, more enjoyable time!
We had scheduled our 2 nights in Tortuguero at the end of our trip hoping that later in July, we'd have more chance of seeing turtles. It worked! Watching the large green turtle deposit her eggs was surely a highlight of all our trips to Costa Rica. We only saw one, and almost missed that. We had hiked almost 2 miles down the beach in the dark, single file, the only light provided by the raging Caribbean and all its white water. It was only on the way back that another guide found the tracks and our 2 small groups took turns observing, but only after she had finished digging and the laying had begun. The next day, we saw 6-7 sets of tracks.
Lodge: Laguna Lodge--good food, comfortable, if basic, room. Very nice swimming pool
Tour Group: Modesto and Fran Watson, who operate the Riverboat Francesca--Molly2 on Fodor's had recommended them to us, and we were so pleased with all aspects of our package, from early communications, right up until Fran delivered us back into San Jose. Modesto had been raised on the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua, and he and Fran met when she (a Minnesota girl) was there working with the Miskito (?) Indians. They've been married many years and operating the Tortuguero Canal Tours for 18, I think.
Delightful couple, very friendly and personable.
We enjoyed Tortuguero town--spent some time there the afternoon we arrived.
2 riverboat tours with Modesto on our full day--one at 6:00 a.m., the other at 3:00 p.m.--both a couple of hours. The day was beautiful with blue skies. We felt so blessed to avoid rain that day especially.
We also spent some time walking into town along the beach, hanging by the pool, and napping. I could spend a lot of days doing just those things! Absolutely loved spending time on the boat seeing so much up and down the rivers.
The boa in the small tree by the boat launch the morning we left was a real treat--such a great photo op.
The 3.5 hours to Tortuguero and back out was most enjoyable, taking plenty of time to look at wildlife both trips.
We had taken a taxi from Puerto Viejo for $50. Hired a young man who turned out to be very safe, careful, and pleasant to visit with. We arrived at the wharf in Moin about 8:45 after leaving PV at 7:00. The others in our group (about 10) had come from San Jose with Fran. It was interesting to meet so many people--New York, France, Latvia, England (living in Moscow), and Spain. And us. Costa Rica is really and truly becoming more and more of a world class destination.
I wrote earlier of our return to San Jose (some had returned the day before, so there were only 5 of us in the van). We had opted for the 2 night package rather than one night. I can't imagine doing it any other way. One night definitely not enough!
The taxi strike was a nuisance as we got into it right after pulling onto the highway out of Moin. Fianlly, after being held up for a long while, Fran very cooly, calmly and wisely followed a big bus off the highway and down a very rough road that ran parallel, but out of sight, of the highway. The bus was able to move along faster than us and soon disappeared. After awhile we headed back up toward the highway just as two taxies came tearing down the highway from the east and pulled up on both sides. We could see more coming. Fran gunned the motor, came flying off that side road, turning onto the highway at full speed, and narrowly escaped being blocked again. We clapped and cheered as we watched the highway lock up in our rearview. BARELY did we make it! Just another wild adventure to add to a long list!
Back in San Jose, we hired a taxi to take us to Alajuela where we had a rental car waiting. I'm telling you we've been in a few taxis, but this guy's car was barely running and I swear he was blind. He'd drive in 2 lanes, then honk at the trucks and busses he thought were about to sideswipe him. We both breathed sighs of relief when we alighted safely!
We'd left most of our luggage at Hotel Villa Bonita, and believe me, after 10 days we were needed some changes! Spent some time visiting with Humberto, Carmen, and cuddling baby Felipe, we made our way out to Vista del Valle. Although we nearly always stay at Hotel Villa Bonita (it is so close to the airport and the our familia Tica we always visit with), we had wanted to try VdV for a long time. We'd thought we would have the afternoon there to relax and enjoy, but the taxistas took care of that! We arrived about 7:00, so tired with barely enough energy to change and drag ourselves to dinner. The meal was very good and the showers and comfortable bed in Ilan Ilan very welcome at the end of a long and eventful day!
Fortunately our flight wasn't until 1:00, so we were able to get up early, enjoy the outdoor shower some more, hike down that perilous path to the waterfall (those ladders!) and otherwise explore the property. Visited with Johanna over breakfast, and left later than we intended.
We made a quick trip into San Joaquin to say goodbye to our familia Tica, then dropped the car at Tricolor. Arrived at the airport at 11:00. It being a Thursday, this was plenty of time, and we were grateful the airport wasn't crowded.
We had so much luggage, returning with 70 bags of coffee and a few this and thats, and we were especially grateful to the young man who loaded it up, walked us through the airport, actually FILLED OUT our declarations forms for us, and dropped us off at the ticket counter! Pura Vida, for sure!
Again, muchas gracias to all who shared information with us during our planning. I can't imagine how we could have had a better, more enjoyable time!
Jul 30th, 2006, 07:34 PM
#18
Hi shillmac
I have been reading all your post and have seen all the pictures.
You had quite an adventure in some places.
It was nice to follow with you to some of the places I have been and to follow behind you to the many places I have not been to in Costa Rica.
Thank you so much for including us( Fodorites) in on your Costa Rica Trip.
Glad you finally got to see and stay at Vista del Valle...even though it was brief.
Oscar works out of there, usually at the end of the day he is hanging around the dinning area!
That climb down to the waterfall is something alright...half way down you feel like quitting but you can hear the waterfall getting louder and louder !! so you have to keep on climbing down......who in the world made those ladders!
No,no it's okay . don't bother sending over one of those 70 bags of coffee over here...... you keep them all for yourself ,it's okay, I will manage with my regular coffee tomorrow morning.....while you sip on Costa Rican coffee.
Take Care and Good Night
Percy
I have been reading all your post and have seen all the pictures.
You had quite an adventure in some places.
It was nice to follow with you to some of the places I have been and to follow behind you to the many places I have not been to in Costa Rica.
Thank you so much for including us( Fodorites) in on your Costa Rica Trip.
Glad you finally got to see and stay at Vista del Valle...even though it was brief.
Oscar works out of there, usually at the end of the day he is hanging around the dinning area!
That climb down to the waterfall is something alright...half way down you feel like quitting but you can hear the waterfall getting louder and louder !! so you have to keep on climbing down......who in the world made those ladders!
No,no it's okay . don't bother sending over one of those 70 bags of coffee over here...... you keep them all for yourself ,it's okay, I will manage with my regular coffee tomorrow morning.....while you sip on Costa Rican coffee.
Take Care and Good Night
Percy
Jul 30th, 2006, 08:08 PM
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Okay, okay. . .we did have some great weather. . .send me your address. Can't stand to think of anyone drinking regular coffee!
I regret that we didn't call and visit with Ricardo and Lupita, and also to talk to Oscar. They probably would have enjoyed chatting about you!
Are you counting your sleeps yet?
I regret that we didn't call and visit with Ricardo and Lupita, and also to talk to Oscar. They probably would have enjoyed chatting about you!
Are you counting your sleeps yet?
Jul 31st, 2006, 08:20 AM
#20
Yes I am counting my sleeps starting August 1st.
The Pope at the Vatican wants to to hurry up!!
In Venice do I have to swim across the canals or can I take a Gondola ride !!?
Your too late I already had my morning coffee.!
But go ahead enjoy your Costa Rica coffee every morning, it's okay ...Really it is!! Hmm!
Percy
The Pope at the Vatican wants to to hurry up!!
In Venice do I have to swim across the canals or can I take a Gondola ride !!?
Your too late I already had my morning coffee.!
But go ahead enjoy your Costa Rica coffee every morning, it's okay ...Really it is!! Hmm!
Percy
