CR itinerary, any suggestions?

Old Oct 19th, 2004, 12:09 PM
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CR itinerary, any suggestions?

Here's our basic itinerary....14 nights. We'll be staying at either the Monteverde Lodge or the Arco Iris lodge, then Villa Lapas near the Carara Biological reserve, then the Savegre Lodge.

Now we haven't decided on the length of time at each place, not sure whether to break evenly or stay longer in 1 area. We've decide to "bite the bullet" and rent a 4WD vehicle. Also, can't decide which way to start trip...Monteverde, Coast, Mtns. or vice versa?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Don
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Old Oct 19th, 2004, 12:23 PM
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I can't help but notice that your itinerary is focused on cloudforest {Monteverde and Savegre}. Of course there is no right or wrong way to experience CR - it's just unusual! If you want to experience both cloudforest areas, then logic would dictate that more time would be spent at Villa Lapas than the other two places. Savegre, by the way, is simply wonderful!

If you're not set on focusing on cloudforest, you might want to eliminate either Monteverde or Savegre in favor of Arenal or another destination for a more varied experience.
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Old Oct 19th, 2004, 05:43 PM
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All three places offer different views of Costa Rica. Even though two are cloud forests there is a difference. Monteverde area does offer more to do other than the reserves. Do be prepared for some cool temps in Savegre and possibly Monteverde. What exactly do you want to get out of this trip? That would help determine how long in each place and possibly another stop could easily be worked in. I am sure it can.

Other than being in a great location we were less than impressed with Monteverde Lodge. Nothing specific wrong, just not a whole lot of character to us. It was nice enough though for a couple of nights. We don't spend much time in our rooms anyway. Too much to see and do. Even though we have been traveling to CR for many many years, we still feel like we don't want to waste a second of it while there. They are doing some paving up in the Santa Elena area which is much needed and I do think you will find a car coming in handy. Fortunately, the paving that was started down below has stopped for now due to lack of funds and corruption. From Santa Elena, Monteverde is in one direction and Santa Elena Reserve in another with lots of interesting things in between. 2-3 nights is a good amount of time here to see everything.

Villas Lapas is another so so place but again, location is very good. They have some great birds on the grounds. Don't bother with their little zip line. The proximity to Carara is another plus. This was our first and only all inclusive. Again, a car will be handy to get to Carara. While staying there we went and viewed the famous sunset at Villas Caletas and then drove on down to Jaco for a lovely meal at a restaurant right on the beach. Again, 2-3 nights is probably enough.

How do you want to end your trip...hot or cold? That could also have a bearing on what order you do things. One potential problem might be getting to Savegre from either Villas Lapas or Monteverde. You will have to drive through San Jose. You also need to be careful about when you drive there. The intercontinental does go up to 10,000ft there before you turn down into San Gerardo de Dota and the road can be very foggy. It is best driven in the morning or early mid day. Once you turn down it clears up and the most beautiful valley emerges. Aquaintances of ours have planted hundreds of fruit trees on the property they bought there a couple of years ago. This is apple growing country for Costa Rica. 2 nights is good here. Either Savegre Lodge or Trogon lodge are nice. Savegre is a little more basic in the rooms than Trogon and the gardens around Trogon are prettier but the Chacon family at Savegre are great people.

You could probably also fit in a night or two at Arenal and even a night or two in San Jose where you can take some day trips. Maybe even take a couple of days in San Jose from Villas Lapas and then drive down to Savegre. Another idea might be to stay a night or two in the Orosi valley area before heading down to San Gerardo de Dota. Both of those places are south of San Jose.
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Old Oct 19th, 2004, 06:05 PM
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I, too, think you should try to work in another area. Generally speaking, each area you have mentioned could be pretty thoroughly enjoyed in 3 nights.

Also, I would agree with the suggestion to spend a couple or 3 days near San Jose doing day trips. The Orosi Valley is breathtaking and not heavily traveled by tourists. There are also some areas north of San Jose definitely worth seeing. A 5-6 day Arenal-Monteverde combination would be a good idea as well.

I'm curious about what time of year you will be traveling. Anytime soon?
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Old Oct 20th, 2004, 05:18 AM
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shillmac,
We will be in CR either Feb 12-26 or Feb 19 - Mar5. I've heard a lot of discussion about driving in CR, but I've driven in South Africa and Belize and the roads there aren't "pretty".

We're trying to avoid "rushing" from place to place and would like to stay at most 4 places, but would prefer do 3 if possible. Seeing a quetzal is a "must", hence the visit to Savegre Lodge. The wife does not like to lie on the beach and just relax, so it's hiking and serious bird-watching, sky walk's, etc. Can you suggest where to get a very good CR map, maybe even a good topo?

Any suggestions would be appreciated as to itinerary, hotels, must see things, etc. Would it be wise to purchase the daily insurance when renting a vehicle?

Thanks, Don
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Old Oct 20th, 2004, 06:13 AM
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Wow- informative answers on Monteverde!I wish I had found this board years ago.

The only thing I can help on is the map. I have seen tourists with really nice laminated maps from The Map Store and from Barnes and Noble. A must if you are driving as the free maps leave a little to the imagination. Extra insurance is encouraged/advised but some people use their credit card(???)-seems risky
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Old Oct 20th, 2004, 09:11 AM
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FP492:
The map is called Berndston & Berndston--Barnes & Noble or order online. It is an excellent travel aid for Costa Rica.

I think you will enjoy driving around. Going through San Jose is not particularly fun and will probably frustrate you no end--but you can do it!

Also, since you are going to Savegre, you might enjoy doing what we did in June (except we used public bus for this part of our trip). We left Savegre and drove on down the highway south to San Vito for a couple of days. It is a little Italian-founded town (though you'd never know it these days except for the restaurants). It is near Wilson Botanical Gardens which I believe you would enjoy very much. Just for your consideration, since this is the type activity you are interested in.

Also, because of your interests, south and east (I think?) of San Jose through Cartago near Turrialba is the Guayabo National Monument--preColumbian ruins. It makes for interesting hiking and looking around. You could do this if you decide to head down that way to the Orosi Valley. When you return from Savegre, you'll come to Cartago. Instead of going on into San Jose, you could backtrack toward the southeast to take in these areas. We have really enjoyed the times we've spent down in those parts.

Marino at Savegre will not REST until he makes sure you have seen the quetzal!

Also, about the insurance--they will tell you what is necessary for your protection. There isn't any choice. As for the credit card, it isn't to replace the entire insurance required by the rental companies--just a small portion of it, and not all cards offer that coverage. If your cc has this coverage, you might as well use it--call ahead to find out. It helps about $7 per day, I believe. In order to use it, you have to confirm with the rental agency that your card does indeed cover that portion (most of the time, they will actually call the card company and verify)--then you must sign a waiver stating that you are covered for that portion by your card. In other words, you refuse that portion of the insurance and initial a paper to that effect.
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Old Oct 20th, 2004, 09:29 AM
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Don: A bit off subject. Don't forget to advise your credit card company that you'll be using the card "out of the country". Unusual spending will surely raise a red flag and naturally the c.c. company is looking for fraud (your protection of course!) It's happened to us, more than once actually. Just FYI! Enjoy your trip!

Lisa in M.A.
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Old Oct 20th, 2004, 11:36 AM
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Ooh, Lisa brings up a VERY GOOD point! First time we rented a car in CR, our cc was rejected because the company was unaware that the card might be used out of the country. Now we call a couple of weeks ahead of our travel date and let them know. Same thing happened to me recently here in the states when I had not used my card for a couple of months. One day while shopping, I used it several times within a short period of time and after about the 4th charge, it was blocked and I had to call to clear everything up. I guess that's a good thing!
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Old Oct 21st, 2004, 05:37 AM
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Thanks for all the great responses and tips, especially about the credit cards. I've ordered the Berndston & Berndston map. In addition to the birding, which is the primary reason, we're interested in flowers, other animals, scenics, waterfalls, everything and anything. Will have digital SLR and digital camcorder, probably about 20-25 pounds of camera equipment.

If we decided to do 5 nights at the Arco Iris Lodge (Montverde), what other suggestions to see in the area? Arenal? Anything else?

Then off to Villa Lapas or someplace better, near the Carara Biological Reserve, for 4 nights? Is it worth it to stop at Manuel Antonio NP ? Also want to get some nice sunset shots. I've noticed on some maps, that there appears to be a gravel(major) road that runs from Parrita to Dominical. Could I take that to Savegre Lodge?

Savegre Lodge last stop. Must get Marino for birding tour, I know. Can we do day trips from here to Orosi Valley, Lankester Gardens, La Paz Waterfalls?

Oh, I plan on NOT leaving anything in our vehicle, even for a brief time. One of us will always be in vehicle or we take everything out.

Thanks again!

Don
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Old Oct 21st, 2004, 07:03 AM
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Don,
You can get from Domincal to Savegre. You take the highway from Dominical to San Isidro (about an hour, I think--we've not been on it). Then from San Isidro de General drive north toward San Jose. The turnoff to Savegre will be on your left. I think it is at the 18km marker. This will take you an hour and a half (from San Isidro to Savegre). The last few km is off the highway down a dirt road descending into the valley.

I don't think you want to spend your time at Savegre doing a day trip to Orosi. It is about 2.5 hour each way. Much easier on your way back toward San Jose. If you leave early in the a.m.--7:00ish, you can be in the Orosi area by 9:30 or so. You'll go north to Cartago, then follow directions to Orosi Valley back toward the south on another road. The Berndston & Berndston will clarify for you. Just spend the day seeing the Orosi Valley on your way back to San Jose. If you think you want more time in this area, arrange for an overnight somewhere. You wouldn't regret either way.

Looking at your interests and schedule, I think it would absolutely be worth your time to spend 2 nights in Manuel Antonio since it on your way. Tour the park in the morning, spend the afternoon doing whatever you like--many, many choices, get some great sunset shots from one of the restaurants overlooking the water, and next morning get an early start for Savegre. Remember, you'll want to arrive there by noon to avoid fog on the highway between San Isidro and Savegre.

4-5 nights Monteverde (or possibly 3 nights Monteverde, 2 nights Arenal?)

4 nights Villas Lapas

2 nights Manuel Antonio

3 nights Savegre

I really think you would enjoy the Arenal area. If you need to cut some time, I'd recommend dropping a night at Villas Lapas. Also, 2 nights at Savegre would be fine--especially if you arrive there by noon and have an entire afternoon and full day.
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Old Oct 21st, 2004, 08:45 AM
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FP492, shillmac gave you excellent advice. If you're set on Marino {also have heard good things about the other guides}, you might want to contact the lodge in advance. We ran into some disappointed people there who were unable to arrange for him onsite, as he already had a group booked. He doesn't like to take large groups - this way he can focus on individual's birding preferences.

There are several fine trails on the property that will keep you busy for hours. The trail leading to the waterfall is probably the most popular busier}. It is very scenic but rather difficult, especially when wet and slippery. Other trails through magnificent cloudforest you will llkely have to yourself to practice your bird-identification skills. The lodge also offers several guided hikes. I agrree with shillmac - dayhikes wouldn't be a good idea from Savegre.
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Old Oct 21st, 2004, 08:53 AM
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Also agree that you would enjoy Arenal -great birding and hiking. We saw many stunning species during our stay at the Obsrvatory Lodge, along with butterflies and other insects, cotamundi,etc. The Cano Negro River
trip that leaves from the Arenal area is known for supberb birding and wildlife spotting. Not to further muddle your itinerary - perhaps the beginning of a second trip?
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Old Oct 21st, 2004, 08:02 PM
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We are pretty serious birders (with a world known ornithologist in the family there is no choice!) and our favorite places are; Rancho Naturalista in Turrialba, La Selva OTS in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, Cano Negro, San Gerardo de Dota (primarily for the quetzal-we have been there twice and saw them both times although August was a lot harder). Bosque del Cabo has great birds. Bosque del Rio Tigre also down in the Puerto Jimenez area has great birds -Liz is a bit intense but her husband Abraham is great, looking forward to a third visit with them soon as well as Bosque del Cabo after our birding foray down into Panama.

Both Cano Negro and La Selva can be done as day trips from the Arenal area.

We tried using an ipod this year with wonderful success. We bought the cd of birds of CR and played with it to get the background noises out and then put them in the ipod sorted various ways. With an inexpensive speaker, it worked great calling birds in. We also broke down and bought a Leica spotting scope and got some amazing pictures with our digital camera through it.

We chartered a flight down to San Vito from Turrialba a couple of years ago. There were some very good birds at Wilson but it seemed a little artificial as they were primarily seen from the deck by the restaurant and by the gift shop. All at feeding stations. We took a very long hike that led us up and down steep hills where we ended up just about back in San Vito and saw very few birds in the woods. I shudder to think about how many snakes I didn't see either!!!!

Shillmac, you mentioned previously that you aren't much of a birder yet. You should give it a try, it is a whole new world of beauty. I fell in love with the Trogons while in Belize a few years ago and started with them to learn a small group of Costa Rican birds. I have since branched out to many many other ones of course but it was a good place to start. Biggest problem right now is that they keep renaming a bunch of the little buggers. Fortunately, the trogons have not been changed. The Skutch book has not come out with a new book with the new names so it could get confusing. The former Scarlet rumped tanager is the most confusing to me. Location is the best key to figuring them out now.

This summer was great just driving around and ending up where ever. My husband got a great picture of an Ornate Eagle.

Villa Lapas had some very good birds also. We had a little pygmy owl nesting in a tree right in front of our room. Several different herons along the little stream by the lodge. Pale Billed woodpeckers building nests at the top of the driveway. In Carara we saw a bunch of orange collared manakins doing their lek ritual-a first for me.

I could go on about the wonderful birds there but you are limited to your time there. I have been at it for many many years. You will enjoy your stay and no matter where you go you will see some wonderful things.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2004, 10:54 AM
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Thanks again for all the EXCELLENT info!

Our flight from Philly would arrive in San Jose airport around 2PM. Would it be possible to reach either of our destinations(Arenal/Montverde or Orosi Valley) that evening or should we stay somehwere near the airport.

Based on all the comments so far, I've decided to follow this itinerary, at least until I change it again...2 nights Orosi Valley, 4 nights Savegre Lodge, 2 nights Manuel Antonio NP, 3 nights Villa Lapas(Carara Reserve), 3 nights Monteverde, back to airport for late afternoon flight home(3PM).

Any suggestions for a nice place to stay in the Orosi Valley? We're middle of the road, don't need luxury, but want a step or 2 above rustic.

Thanks, Don
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Old Oct 23rd, 2004, 06:54 PM
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Don, try www.orosilodge.com
It comes recommended through the Vida Tropical Bed & Breakfast website. We haven't stayed overnight at Orosi, but I think this may be a reliable link for you.

Your itinerary sounds super! I think you are going to enjoy every minute, and I hope you both have a wonderful time!

Jessie, Savegre was indeed my first birding experience and who better to introduce one to birding than Marino? In fact, Molly2 and I and our husbands were there at the same time and it was a new experience for all of us. We loved it. I will say this: I didn't necessarily develop a driving passion for bird watching, but I did come away with an appreciation of it and I DO notice birds more now than I had before!

I enjoyed my time with Marino immensely. Besides me, there was a fellow from Philadelphia who was, as you say, a serious birder. The two of them satisfied their passion for serious birding, but Marino also made sure I saw everything they saw. I was grateful for his effort make me feel included. It was tons of fun. I can definitely see birding as a hobby I would enjoy cultivating one day.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2004, 07:10 PM
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AND, I DO know (as does Molly2) about the long-tailed silky flycatcher!
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Old Oct 24th, 2004, 05:58 AM
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Jessie's post above gives excellent advice regarding birding.

You will find many of the same species near Villa Lapas as at MA and quite a bit of similarity between Monteverde and Savegre Lodge. Savegre is a wonderful birding spot but due to the elevation the number of species in the area is not great.Three nights there would be plenty. For diversity , OTS La Selva near Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui in the Caribbeaqn lowlands is excellent. A good place to stay is nearby Selva Verde Lodge. Species diversity in this area is outstanding.
Rancho Naturalista is at about 1000 meters overlooking the Tuis Valley and is a superb birding spot.
Personally I would eliminate Monteverde entirely from your itinerary. If you do go to Monteverde the Santa Elena reserve is much less crowded than the Monteverde reserve.
Most people seem to go to Monteverde for quetzals but to get good looks at them in a much more pleasant area I suggest Savegre Lodge.

cheers

Jerry
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Old Oct 24th, 2004, 06:15 AM
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Jessie,
You mentioned the scarlet rumped tanager. I thought I saw one in Golfito in the city park while we were en route to Puerto Jimenez. It looked as if it had a scarlet thigh and was jet black. I asked Eduardo at BDC and he seemed to think that was what it was. Also there was a social flycatcher in the park there.

I'm surprised that you don't recommend San Vito. We didn't go there with the intention of looking for birds, but thought the area was very nice and the Wilson Gardens interesting. However, Eduardo thinks it is a very good area for birding and told me he would like to live there eventually.

I would like to further my birding skills a bit while on the Caribbean side this week, but I don't know if I will get a chance to do that or not. Still having trouble deciding on hotel.
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Old Oct 24th, 2004, 08:14 AM
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Yes, yes, yes! The Savegre experience was all theat shillmac describes! Besides Mike,the fellow from Philadelphia, we were all fairly clueless {about birds, that is!}. Marino is so passionate about his birds, you become excited about them too. From our posts, it's obvious that, though I don't think any of us will ever be BIRDERS {theyre's a definite distiction!}, we continue to be interested in birding. Does this make sense {:

To correct a typo of mine earlier in the discussion: "dayTRIIPS {by car} wouldn't be good from Savegre".

Relatives of mine visited Rancho Naruarlista {"nearly qualify as Birders"}, and were very impressed with the variety of birds they saw there.
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