Wife and I just got back from Buenos Aires and Brazil. I spent quite a bit of time reading the chat room, and for most part, agree with a lot of it. However, we were not as thrilled with BA as most people. First the cabs are filled with scam artists. I will post more on that later. The City is quite decayed and if you like to walk you put your life at risk - pedestrian has no rights there. The main avenue which I had always heard compared with Champs Elysee or Reforma is not attractive at all. It is quite wide however, I guess the widest in the world but that does not make it attractive. The posters that mentioned Cintia as a source of info and for tours are correct. She and her husband are the best. The main pedestrian street - Florida - is interesting to see, but the street surface is crumbling all around you. And the beggars - wow. I'm used to that but not like in BA. Restaurants were ok, tho not the greatest, but a place in Puerto Madero called Cabana Las Lilas was excellent. in fact Puerto Madero has quite a few restaurants that looked good. The side trip to Colonia was a disappointment. The only fun thing there was walking into town and renting a golf cart to tool around in. We went out several miles to a Kempinski Hotel and had lunch which was a nice ride on our cart. I am glad we made the trip to BA, but our 5 nights there were about 2 too many. We did see a ballet at the Teatro Colon and that was nice. The Tango show at Sr. Tango was a tourist event and ok, but I could have lived without it. Sorry, any Portenos reading this. I liked your City and don't mean to disparage it, but the City needs to put some money into repairs. I did spend some money there. The exchange rate is very favorable. The wine, especially Malbec and Cabs, were great. I recommend Luigi Bosca, 1995 and 1997. The best part of our visit there was Recoleta Cemetery. Quite a sight to see, and the surrounding Recoleta area is quite nice and relaxing. From BA we went to Iguazu Falls. We enjoyed that more than we expected to. We stayed at the Sheraton which is a one star hotel with a 5 star location and a 5 star price. But that is probably the best place to stay. There is a hotel on Brazil side - Catarazas - that looked as nice or better, but I think the Sheraton is probably a better choice. 2 nights there is definitely all that I would suggest any one spend there. Will be happy to answer any questions. [email protected]

Larry:

Your candor is helping me at a critical time.

It is possible that I might go to SA by myself. I would like your opinion about that. I am married, a mom but have travelled solo and with some of my girlfriends.

I JUST put a day boat trip to Colonia BACK into my journey. Would you delete this?

I would love to re-post my itinery for your candor if you feel up to it.

I am contemplating using 4Star South America to help with my trip. DO you know anything about them?

My thanks!
Oaktwon Traveler

Hi, Larry & Oaktown traveler! I, also, am a woman that will be traveling singly to SA making my way [Rio- Igazu-BA] to board my Anarctica cruise in Ushuaia. Have traveled the world both singly & with my husband [other than Africa]? Do you recommend a driver in Rio? I am staying at the Ipanema in Rio & have read on this board that there is a driver that parks out front of the hotel that people have used & liked. Is it safe for a woman to wander the park alone at IF?[staying at the Sheraton] Also, staying at the Bel Air hotel in Recoleta-is it safe for a woman to wander that area safely? I was considering Cinta [or a friend who had lived in BA said he could set up a driver for me]. I would be deeply appreciative for any advisements that you could provide. Kindest regards & thank you!

Oaktown and Teabag, please remember that I am no expert and this is just my (our) personal observations. I just can't imagine why anyone would want to spend a day going to Colonia unless you just had so much extra time or you like ferry trips. It was not anything I hated, just not anything really interesting or fun. (But a lot of Posters do like it for some reason). I do not know who 4Star is so I cannot comment on them. ateabag, I had a hard time finding a driver in Rio, but Dondiega recommended someone who, when I called did not speak english, but did recommend someone who did and he was ok. I will ask my wife for his name and number and try to post it later. Is it safe for a single woman in Iguazu Falls? I would say absolutely yes. There will always be crowds walking around with you and the park does not allow night time wandering. Do not miss going to the Brazil side also as it is a spectacular view. The Sheraton concierge can arrange for a driver to take you and wait for you there for around 80 pesos as I recall (about $25) On your way back have the driver take you thru Foz de Iguazu on the Brazil side. That is the sizeable town close to the falls in Brazil. No great sight seeing but worth the 25 minutes or so to drive around. I would think that the Recoleta area is also safe, but would not advise walking there or any part of BA after dark. I only know about Cintia and her husband who was the one who actually took us on the personal tour and I do highly recommend them. But watch out for cab scams in BA. I need to post that and I will hopefully later today.

ateabag, also, you don't really need a driver in Rio. The main attraction is the beaches and you will be on Ipanema already and you can walk (couple of miles - safe nice walk) to Copacabana Beach. The other attractions are Sugar Loaf which a cab can take you to and then you take cable cars to the top and enjoy the spectacular view. Also the same for the Christ statue, except there you take a cab to the train and take that to the top. I guess an escorted grey line tour type may give you a little more info once you are there, but I don't think that is the way to go. Our driver just took us to these sites and waited at the bottom for us to return. That worked well for us, but a cab would have been about the same. We did have him drive us around a bit, but he really didnt give much info on history, etc.

Interesting report, Larry.

Some questions about Iguazu:
1. Did you have a visa for Brazil?
2. Did they ask to see your visa when you went to the falls in Brazil? Since we are not going to Rio, I wonder if the $100 fee for each for a visit is worth spending.
3. Did you go to the bird park in Iguazu? If so, how was it?
4. Did you go on the jungle/rain forest expedition in Iguazu?

Oops... I forgot to mention that we will be in Iguazu and staying at the Sheraton for 3 or 4 nights as part of our planned trip to Argentina.

I nearly chocked on my coffee when I saw that responses had been posted!!!

THANK YOU!

Larry your input is great. I had asked the exact same thing about Colonia to my travel "helper" so now I know what to do. My trip is now between 35 and 40 days but, I do not want to have one day or hard earned dollar "wasted".

Evelyn...

I wanted 2 nights at the Sheraton. My Travel person said one was more than enough. WHat are you planning to do for 4 nights?

Evelyn and Ateabag: Do you mind sharing when and where you are going?
I am suppose to go with four other women but their commitment is not where it should be at this point.

Thanks for whatever you can share.

Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler,

We have planned a 14-day vacation to Argentina and are still working on our itinerary. I know we want to go to BA, Iguazu and Glaciers National Park, but have not yet worked out the details. Since airline travel takes up a good part of the day, the number of nights at a single place are not as significant as the number of days. In addition, there are not always direct flights from one place to another. Therefore, I think we will fly from home to BA for a couple of days, then to Iguazu, then to Glaciers (with a connecting flight in BA) and then back to BA for a day or two. I would like to add another area, but we are still sorting that out and looking for ideas.

At Iguazu, even though it is 3 nights, it is probably just 2 days because of air travel considerations. I was curious about the jeep ride into the rainforest and if that is worthwhile, perhaps we would add another day/night. I heard that the dam visit there was good, too. Plus, it will be warm in Feb/March so hanging out at the Sheraton pool during the heat of the day might make sense. Since I probably will never be back, I rather see the area in depth rather than a quick look-see.

When are you planning on going? By the way, I've we've chatted before on this forum and your advice has been helpful.

Dear Larry, I can't thank you enough for taking your valuable post-trip time to answer my ?'s. Have read about the timely process of getting a Brazilian visa. Did you do it on your own or go thru a service? Does it really take 3mos? If you did go thru a service, I would be interested in which one & the details. Again, profuse thanks. More later. Kindest regards.

I'm from rio and been to Bs As and Uruguay several times. I can't believe someone really thinks Colonia is a waste of money and time. This city is pretty beautiful and has a peculiar history: it was made by the portuguese ppl. To spend one day seeing those buildings and streets of downtown r worthy. And believe me, not expensive. But surely, if u look for nightlife or national parks, that's not the place. I love history and to be in touch with other cultures and if u r in bs as it's so easy and cheap to go to uruguay that i'd say it's almost an obligation to visit it. But that's my opinion. I wouldn't skip Colonia.
If any1 needs info about Brazil, Argentina or Uruguay send me an e-mail ([email protected])

Thanks Evelyntrv, Larry and others!

Where is Glaciers National Park?

Ok, for those who can add, delete or help. Here is what I have:

Sept. 2004

USA to SP for 3 nights

Manaus for 3 nights

Rio for 5 nights

Salvador for 3 nights

Iguassu for 2 nights

Montevideo for 2 nights

Colonia for a day?????

Buenos Aires 4 nights

Cusco & The Sacred Valley 2 nights

Machu Picchu 1 night

Cusco 1 night

Puno and Titicaca Lake 2 nights

Santiago de Chile 3 nights

Santa Cruz and wine country 3 nights

Buenos Aries to USA.

I would love your thoughts.

Oaktown Traveler

Ebelyntray - I did have a visa for Brazil, but no, I was never asked for it when we crossed into Brazil to see the Falls. The cab driver just whizzes by with no problem there. It is done all the time and if you are not otherwise going into Brazil you shouldn't need one. I was asked when I crossed over to leave tho as we were flying from the Brazil side and they needed to stamp the visa there. I obtained the visa from the Houston Brazilian Counselate Office. You can get the addresses on line by pulling up on Google - Brazil Visa (or Consulate). I did not go to the bird park, but guess if we had been there for more than 2 nites, as you appear to be doing, we would have, tho we could have easily done that in the short time we were there. It is on the Brazil side in case you don't know.

Oaktown, I think one nite at Iguazu may be a little short, your choice of 2 is correct in my opinion. As for the rain forest, this is the first I have even heard of it. Your trip schedule sounds fantastic. Lots of traveling, but thats the way I like to do it also. Your 5 nights in Rio may be a little much, tho it looks like you like to hang out at pools so the beach area may take a lot of time for you, but I would cut it back, and, if you see my post on Brazil site, we really enjoyed seeing Sao Paulo Brazil. Only spent 1 nite there and wish we had planned for another.

Cadu. I respect your opinion of Colonia. I guess thats why they make chocolate and vanilla. But I have been in many small quaint old villages, and Colonia was no where near as picuresque or interesting as small villages in Mexico or elsewhere. My opinion only, and obviously many other posters do share your opinion.

Larry:

Thank you so much!

We must share at least one travel gene because last night I took out my four South America travel books and was making a list of why I needed 5 nights in Rio. I clearly see 3 to 4 but will probably cut that 5th night out.

I am also glad that you did not "slam" my itinery...It has been revised soooo many times and I am getting more comfortable with it.

I have lots more work to do.

My Best,
Oaktown Traveler

It semmes to be a good plan.
How i've said before, i wouldn't skip colonia... And i think u should keep 5 days in rio (i'm from rio, hehe)

giggle...

Cadu, you are too funny!
Ok, I just finished HOURS of Rio hotel research.

I just HAVE to stay at the Copacabana Palace...I know, I know... whay say ye?

Thanks!
Oaktwon Traveler

Sorry, darling, I've been all over the world and I think Buenos Aires is a very beautiful city. Wonderful grand architecture, gorgeous parks, and stylish citizens all make for a pukka experience. My god, every other person looks like a supermodel!

I've never heard Ave 5 Julio referred to as Champs Elysee of BA. I don't know where you got that one from, darling. I think Libertador, running through Recoleta and Palermo, is closer to CE.

The Sheraton is OK, but certainly not the best. Alvear Palace and Four Seasons are in a stratosphere far above the Sheraton.

I never had a problem walking anywhere, and can't think of any street that didn't have a crosswalk and light signals.

There are homeless and cab scams in every large city in the world. Every morning I walk over countless men and women sleeping in the doorway of my office in Philadelphia, for example.

This is just my opinion. I only write this in the hope that it will balance your report, Larry. I wouldn't want the people who read the threads on this forum to get the wrong impression of BA.

I would never hesitate to travel to Buenos Aires, a fantastic city.

I mean nothing vitrolic in my comments.

Cheers, John G.

TG/JG:

Can you look at what I propose?
An, since you brought it up...tell me what you packed or suggest what I might pack.

I plan to do my usual over the top fashion/packing thing... but would love to know from one who has been!

Now, I know not to do all that in the Amazon...smile.

Thanks,
Oaktown Traveler

Just to add another perspective also. I took cabs everywhere in BA, and never had a single problem. Everyone was honest and very nice. I've had more problems with cab drivers in the US than in Argentina.

I didn't notice any "beggars" at all when I was there last year. Not any worse than NYC. And much much better than San Francisco.

about cabs...


I spend over 100 nights per year in Buenos Aires and use taxis at least twice per day, often more. I have never had a problem by simply exercizing a bit of caution--take radio cabs and call ahead if you can....

I am in Buenos Aires now and find it as beautiful as ever....lots of green space....statues everywhere, diverse architecture, interesting people, endless cafes in which to savor a cafe and medialunes, superb pizza and steak houses galore....24 hour nightlife...I could go on.