Buenos Aires Report
May 12th, 2004, 06:01 PM
#21
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Thank God, a more optomistic picture of BA. My wife and I are leaving for our first trip to BA next tuesday and I was somewhat dissmayed by this post from Larry. I know that any large city will have their scam artists whether in the US or abroad. I am now looking forward to our trip more than ever and to learn the tango.
May 13th, 2004, 07:08 AM
#22
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We are a group from Cape Town, South Africa who will be visiting BA in September 2004 for 7 days. The destinantion is not well known here and any advice, especially how to arrange a trip to Colonia will be appreciated. Also, is anyone familiar with the Gran Hotel de la Paix?
Lastly, what is the status concerning the Herpatitis A outbreak?
Many Thanks
Lastly, what is the status concerning the Herpatitis A outbreak?
Many Thanks
May 13th, 2004, 08:29 AM
#23
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B Eames,
I am in Buenos Aires now, for the next several months...If I can help you with recommendations for restaurants, hotels, etc...feel free to email me and I will send you my phone number.
I bring university students to Buenos Aires each year, and I take delight in introducing them to the city and culture....
Enjoy your stay in one of the great cities of the world.
I am in Buenos Aires now, for the next several months...If I can help you with recommendations for restaurants, hotels, etc...feel free to email me and I will send you my phone number.
I bring university students to Buenos Aires each year, and I take delight in introducing them to the city and culture....
Enjoy your stay in one of the great cities of the world.
May 15th, 2004, 09:32 PM
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drdawggy,
I've seen some of your posts recommending Cintia (as do many others), but attempts to contact her have been unsuccessful/unanswered. Have you had postive experiences with other Argentinian travel agents?
In January, my wife and I will be visiting Buenos Aires for two or three nights, Iguazu for two nights (intend to use the Sheraton), return to BA, then to Ushuaia. I would like to consider some alternatives for hotels and air within Argentina to those proposed by the travel agent I'm using for the remainder of the holiday.
Your suggestions would be appreciated.
I've seen some of your posts recommending Cintia (as do many others), but attempts to contact her have been unsuccessful/unanswered. Have you had postive experiences with other Argentinian travel agents?
In January, my wife and I will be visiting Buenos Aires for two or three nights, Iguazu for two nights (intend to use the Sheraton), return to BA, then to Ushuaia. I would like to consider some alternatives for hotels and air within Argentina to those proposed by the travel agent I'm using for the remainder of the holiday.
Your suggestions would be appreciated.
May 27th, 2004, 03:21 PM
#26
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It surprises me that you and your wife were disappointed with BsAs, Larry. I recently returned from a solo 8 day trip to Buenos Aires and Montevideo and could have easily stayed another week. Decayed and full of scam artists? Where were you staying? I found the architecture quite attractive and the people friendly and inviting. Sure, there was alot of traffic but the city has over 12 million people! I didn't seem to notice all the beggars you were referring to, but I guess maybe stuff like that doesn't bother me. Food just okay? I had steak and Italian food almost everyday, in a different restaurant, and never had a bad meal. Perhaps you were disappointed because there wasn't a TGI Friday's or Red Lobster nearby.
The only thing I will agree with is your comment about Colonia. Although I'm glad I went, I was able to see the town in just over 3 hours, and that includes having a sit down lunch. Montevideo was much more interesting than Colonia.
The only thing I will agree with is your comment about Colonia. Although I'm glad I went, I was able to see the town in just over 3 hours, and that includes having a sit down lunch. Montevideo was much more interesting than Colonia.
May 27th, 2004, 08:18 PM
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Hi, I am presently in the Buenos Aires-Montevideo area traveling back and forth visiting family and friends in both cities.
Last week spent in Buenos Aires was very interesting and we had a great time, among other things , two great art exhibits, one in the Museum of Latin American Art, there was a visiting exhibit about >Dadaism and Surrealism which was fascinating ,Secondlywe visited is an open exhibit in Plaza San Martin, fascinating aereal photograph b y French photographer Yann Arthus Bertrand
we also went to one of the several antique fairs in town and to the theatre to see a great show, for those Speaking Spanish, :The Luthier. Tickets aprox .u$s15
Regarding several excellent meals we had,
I wish to point out and highly recommend
Sirop, a nice small restaurant , Mediterranean
modern cuisine at PASAJE DEL CORREO a tiny alley off Vicente Lopez Street 1661,
near Plaza Vicente Lopez .
Food is of high quaLITY, fish and meat and home made pastas ( one kind a day),
desserts are prepared with Belgiam chocolate and it shows.
it is better to make reservations , because place is usually full, phone 48135900
the oher place we loved is called Resto
,it is a small and cozy place to enjoy lunc h
fromMonday to Friday and dinner only on
Thursday and Friday.Booking is required.
Montevideo Street 938 near Paraguay st.,
phone 4816-6711 , I found out that both places are favored mainly by locals, which is a big plus for me.
i respect larryRGV experience but I also feel it is a shame he was not able to enjoy more a city which is highly enjoyable, at least for me..
Last week spent in Buenos Aires was very interesting and we had a great time, among other things , two great art exhibits, one in the Museum of Latin American Art, there was a visiting exhibit about >Dadaism and Surrealism which was fascinating ,Secondlywe visited is an open exhibit in Plaza San Martin, fascinating aereal photograph b y French photographer Yann Arthus Bertrand
we also went to one of the several antique fairs in town and to the theatre to see a great show, for those Speaking Spanish, :The Luthier. Tickets aprox .u$s15
Regarding several excellent meals we had,
I wish to point out and highly recommend
Sirop, a nice small restaurant , Mediterranean
modern cuisine at PASAJE DEL CORREO a tiny alley off Vicente Lopez Street 1661,
near Plaza Vicente Lopez .
Food is of high quaLITY, fish and meat and home made pastas ( one kind a day),
desserts are prepared with Belgiam chocolate and it shows.
it is better to make reservations , because place is usually full, phone 48135900
the oher place we loved is called Resto
,it is a small and cozy place to enjoy lunc h
fromMonday to Friday and dinner only on
Thursday and Friday.Booking is required.
Montevideo Street 938 near Paraguay st.,
phone 4816-6711 , I found out that both places are favored mainly by locals, which is a big plus for me.
i respect larryRGV experience but I also feel it is a shame he was not able to enjoy more a city which is highly enjoyable, at least for me..
May 30th, 2004, 05:57 PM
#30
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to Capey
the Hotel de la Paix works with a big number of people coming from Cape Town.
Their location is good if you like downtown area and their breakfast is famous for its variety and the champagne served.
the Hotel de la Paix works with a big number of people coming from Cape Town.
Their location is good if you like downtown area and their breakfast is famous for its variety and the champagne served.
Jun 2nd, 2004, 10:09 AM
#31
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Hi Folks - I just received a request for BA info on another board since I used to live there. Seeing the variety in opinions, I thought I'd add one more for those with upcoming trips! I absolutely adore the city. I'm just copying and pasting my comments so they are not really in response to any questions, but give my recommendations to a first time visitor to BA.
"Lodging:
A really nice area to stay in would be Recoleta. It is a bit more touristy, but it has lots of shops, restaurants, a big park, and lovely hotels. Tango dancers in the street, South American music bands playing Andean pipes, etc. I unfortunately do not know of any hotels in particular since I never stayed in one.
Attractions:
In BA, there are several neighborhoods of interest. La Boca is probably the most touristy, but you must go there. It is awash with brightly colored homes, artists in the streets, and little cafes. San Telmo is another interesting neighborhood with beautiful architecture, and an antiques fare on either Sat. or Sun. Can't remember which. You'll want to visit the Casa Rosada of course, and at a certain time (I forget if it is once a day or once a week) Las Madres de los Desaparecidos, the mothers of people who disappeared during Argentina's "Dirty War" in the 80s march through the plaza. Calle Florida is a pedestrian street with lots of shops, restaurants, etc. and is fun. The obelisk is located on El Nuevo de Julio - which I believe is the largest avenue in the world?? I could be wrong. Anyway, you could probably just drive past that - no need to stop. There is a Gaucho Festival in one of the neighborhoods as well - I can't honestly remember the name but anyone at your hotel could. There is an area a little further up called Tigre - it is much different from the city and really cool. It is on a river with these really interesting homes along the water, and I nice way to spend the day. I'd also recommend going to a soccer game while you're there. It's really nuts.
Transportation:
The Colectivo - the Argentine bus system, is the most common way to get around the city. It can be complicated however unless someone explains the system to you. Cabs are your other option, but BA is really big, and they can be pricey. However I was there before the economic crash, so I think everything will be a lot cheaper for you than when I was there.
Nightlife:
BA is famous for its nightlife. Be prepared to dress up - they are very formal with their attire, and the women get very done up. Depending on what type of scene you prefer, there are many discotecas that are a must see if you go to the city. There is a strip of them on the water, the Rio de la Plata, and they are so much fun. Ribera Este is one, and there are many others right next to it. If you prefer a bar scene, there is Plaza Serrano which has many bars all around a rotunda. For a real taste of local color, go to La Peña del Colorado - I'm not sure exactly where it is located, but it is fabulous. People sit around singing Argentine folk songs while drinking mate (I'll get to that later) and eating empanadas. A must see if you want to see what a real local bar is. For a cheesier bit of fun, there is a bar called Jobs - it is the kind of place that people roll their eyes about but always go to! When I was there, Tuesday night was the big night. It has pool tables and is an enormous, 3 story bar that serves pizza with your cover charge. For a taste of home, there is an Irish pub called The Shamrock. While no one admits to wanting to go to an Irish bar when in a country as interesting as Argentina, it is always fun to meet up with other Americans, Irish, English and Australian folk to swap stories and share recommendations. I recommend going to see a tango show. There are a few, and everyone has their favorite. The big one is Senor Tango. Yes, it's touristy, but it's really cool. There's another that is less touristy but I forget the name. Again, anyone you talk to down there will have a million recommendations.
Food:
There is one main thing to talk about here - steak. It's awesome and it's cheap. When I was there, you could get a steak for 4 bucks and it was really good. Anywhere you go is going to be good. On Calle Florida there are 1 or 2 places that are touristy but cool - they show the people cooking the meat in the window on the parilla (grill) and their quite festive. Any place you go will be good - I would get recs from the locals once you get there. You won't need to make reservations in advance or anything. One thing you'll have to try is maté - it is a strange, bitter tea that EVERYONE drinks there all the time. It is shared amongst a group as a sign of friendship. Most visitors think it tastes like dirt, but you have to try it anyway. The cafe scene there is really great. You can sit with a coffee for hours and the locals will come right up and chat with you if they speak English.
People:
The Argentines are really warm and friendly, and if they hear you sitting and chatting in English at a cafe, they will often come over and start to chat with you. I was there before the war, so it is likely that they are not as fond of Americans at this point. I know they have very strong anti-war feelings there, but I doubt you'll even notice. They were always very gracious and welcoming.
Excursions:
You have to fly to get anywhere else, except perhaps to visit Las Pampas outside of the city. That would be a neat trip. I know you can take group trips out there to a big asado (BBQ), and it's really pretty. Other places of interest within Argentina are:
- Mendoza - wine region - I never made it there but my friends had a blast)
- Iguazu - a FABULOUS waterfall on the border of Paraguay and Brazil - you can actually stand at the intersection of all 3 - which is definitely worth seeing. It is where they filmed the mission, and is one of the most spectacular places I have ever visited
- Patagonia - amazing glaciers, petrified forests, etc. However I would not recommend going in the winter. I was there in the "heat" of summer and froze my behind off.
OK - so now you have a novel! I can also recommend trips to other locations within S. America, however they are far and I wouldn't suggest going unless you have quiet some time. Exceptions being Colonia in Uruguay - you can take the ferry from BA, (high speed in 1 hour or regular in 3) and check out this exquisite place. It is really beautiful and you can rent mopeds to get around. I would recommend just one night there though. You could also conceivable make it up to Rio, which is really fabulous as well but the subject of a later post if you are interested."
"Lodging:
A really nice area to stay in would be Recoleta. It is a bit more touristy, but it has lots of shops, restaurants, a big park, and lovely hotels. Tango dancers in the street, South American music bands playing Andean pipes, etc. I unfortunately do not know of any hotels in particular since I never stayed in one.
Attractions:
In BA, there are several neighborhoods of interest. La Boca is probably the most touristy, but you must go there. It is awash with brightly colored homes, artists in the streets, and little cafes. San Telmo is another interesting neighborhood with beautiful architecture, and an antiques fare on either Sat. or Sun. Can't remember which. You'll want to visit the Casa Rosada of course, and at a certain time (I forget if it is once a day or once a week) Las Madres de los Desaparecidos, the mothers of people who disappeared during Argentina's "Dirty War" in the 80s march through the plaza. Calle Florida is a pedestrian street with lots of shops, restaurants, etc. and is fun. The obelisk is located on El Nuevo de Julio - which I believe is the largest avenue in the world?? I could be wrong. Anyway, you could probably just drive past that - no need to stop. There is a Gaucho Festival in one of the neighborhoods as well - I can't honestly remember the name but anyone at your hotel could. There is an area a little further up called Tigre - it is much different from the city and really cool. It is on a river with these really interesting homes along the water, and I nice way to spend the day. I'd also recommend going to a soccer game while you're there. It's really nuts.
Transportation:
The Colectivo - the Argentine bus system, is the most common way to get around the city. It can be complicated however unless someone explains the system to you. Cabs are your other option, but BA is really big, and they can be pricey. However I was there before the economic crash, so I think everything will be a lot cheaper for you than when I was there.
Nightlife:
BA is famous for its nightlife. Be prepared to dress up - they are very formal with their attire, and the women get very done up. Depending on what type of scene you prefer, there are many discotecas that are a must see if you go to the city. There is a strip of them on the water, the Rio de la Plata, and they are so much fun. Ribera Este is one, and there are many others right next to it. If you prefer a bar scene, there is Plaza Serrano which has many bars all around a rotunda. For a real taste of local color, go to La Peña del Colorado - I'm not sure exactly where it is located, but it is fabulous. People sit around singing Argentine folk songs while drinking mate (I'll get to that later) and eating empanadas. A must see if you want to see what a real local bar is. For a cheesier bit of fun, there is a bar called Jobs - it is the kind of place that people roll their eyes about but always go to! When I was there, Tuesday night was the big night. It has pool tables and is an enormous, 3 story bar that serves pizza with your cover charge. For a taste of home, there is an Irish pub called The Shamrock. While no one admits to wanting to go to an Irish bar when in a country as interesting as Argentina, it is always fun to meet up with other Americans, Irish, English and Australian folk to swap stories and share recommendations. I recommend going to see a tango show. There are a few, and everyone has their favorite. The big one is Senor Tango. Yes, it's touristy, but it's really cool. There's another that is less touristy but I forget the name. Again, anyone you talk to down there will have a million recommendations.
Food:
There is one main thing to talk about here - steak. It's awesome and it's cheap. When I was there, you could get a steak for 4 bucks and it was really good. Anywhere you go is going to be good. On Calle Florida there are 1 or 2 places that are touristy but cool - they show the people cooking the meat in the window on the parilla (grill) and their quite festive. Any place you go will be good - I would get recs from the locals once you get there. You won't need to make reservations in advance or anything. One thing you'll have to try is maté - it is a strange, bitter tea that EVERYONE drinks there all the time. It is shared amongst a group as a sign of friendship. Most visitors think it tastes like dirt, but you have to try it anyway. The cafe scene there is really great. You can sit with a coffee for hours and the locals will come right up and chat with you if they speak English.
People:
The Argentines are really warm and friendly, and if they hear you sitting and chatting in English at a cafe, they will often come over and start to chat with you. I was there before the war, so it is likely that they are not as fond of Americans at this point. I know they have very strong anti-war feelings there, but I doubt you'll even notice. They were always very gracious and welcoming.
Excursions:
You have to fly to get anywhere else, except perhaps to visit Las Pampas outside of the city. That would be a neat trip. I know you can take group trips out there to a big asado (BBQ), and it's really pretty. Other places of interest within Argentina are:
- Mendoza - wine region - I never made it there but my friends had a blast)
- Iguazu - a FABULOUS waterfall on the border of Paraguay and Brazil - you can actually stand at the intersection of all 3 - which is definitely worth seeing. It is where they filmed the mission, and is one of the most spectacular places I have ever visited
- Patagonia - amazing glaciers, petrified forests, etc. However I would not recommend going in the winter. I was there in the "heat" of summer and froze my behind off.
OK - so now you have a novel! I can also recommend trips to other locations within S. America, however they are far and I wouldn't suggest going unless you have quiet some time. Exceptions being Colonia in Uruguay - you can take the ferry from BA, (high speed in 1 hour or regular in 3) and check out this exquisite place. It is really beautiful and you can rent mopeds to get around. I would recommend just one night there though. You could also conceivable make it up to Rio, which is really fabulous as well but the subject of a later post if you are interested."
Jun 3rd, 2004, 07:54 PM
#32
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jaygergon and others, sorry if i did not enjoy BA as much as others here. However I did not say i did not enjoy it, just didnt enjoy it as much as i expected to. as for the food, you will see that i gave a glowing review to Las Lilas and mentioned all of Puerto Madero area. But if you or others did not notice the huge amount of beggars you did not do much walking in the downtown or other tourist areas. Yes, there are panhandlers in any large city, but here it in epidemic. Some of the areas were free of them tho, such as Recoleta, which i said was very nice. And the crumbling streets in Florida Street really got me in a bad mood. That street is so visible and so busy that i cannot understand not repairing it. And as a walker - we walked to Recoleta one day, to San Telmo one day, and to Puerto Madero another, I have to say that it is the worst city I have ever been in to try to walk. NY, London, Mexico City, Sao Paulo, - any large city is difficult , but this was truly a dangerous place for us. I would recommend everyone to see BA, but maybe my expectations were too high. by the way jaygergon, i have been in the hospitality business for many years and have a pretty good idea of what a good restaurant should offer. And it doesnt take a high price or a low one to be good or bad. Service, quality, decor, selection are some of the thing i look for. and a good wine list helps and most of the restaurants there did have that. Didnt mean to offend any portenos. Everyone visiting, go and enjoy.
Jun 4th, 2004, 05:55 AM
#33
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Larry,
I am not a Porteno, but I am in BsAs about 100days per year and love the city....I was not offended in the slightest by your comments....Some of my friends prefer Brazil over Argentina, Disney World over the Rocky MOuntains, etc.....different strokes for different folks....
This having been said, while I was not offended by your comments....I disagree with some of your characterizations....Begging is a problem in BsAs, but nothing like my experiences in Mexico or Quito, Ecuador for example...
Florida street is far from decaying....and I find BsAs as pedestrian friendly a town as I have ever visited.....
The rate of street crime is lower here than in most major cities in the world, including New York or Detroit....There are exceptions in BsAs,,,I would not wander around La Boca at night, for example....but most areas frequented by tourists are pretty safe....
Food....Puerto Madero is nice, but touristy....Venture out of the central city to get an idea of the variety of cuisine available here.....Sucre in Belgrano serves incredible seafood, for example.....Domiga in Palermo Viejo is an excellent choice for an eclectic menu....and Bella Italia in Palermo has some of the best pasta found anywhere....
I am not a Porteno, but I am in BsAs about 100days per year and love the city....I was not offended in the slightest by your comments....Some of my friends prefer Brazil over Argentina, Disney World over the Rocky MOuntains, etc.....different strokes for different folks....
This having been said, while I was not offended by your comments....I disagree with some of your characterizations....Begging is a problem in BsAs, but nothing like my experiences in Mexico or Quito, Ecuador for example...
Florida street is far from decaying....and I find BsAs as pedestrian friendly a town as I have ever visited.....
The rate of street crime is lower here than in most major cities in the world, including New York or Detroit....There are exceptions in BsAs,,,I would not wander around La Boca at night, for example....but most areas frequented by tourists are pretty safe....
Food....Puerto Madero is nice, but touristy....Venture out of the central city to get an idea of the variety of cuisine available here.....Sucre in Belgrano serves incredible seafood, for example.....Domiga in Palermo Viejo is an excellent choice for an eclectic menu....and Bella Italia in Palermo has some of the best pasta found anywhere....
Jun 4th, 2004, 06:31 AM
#34
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Actually, there is a TGI Friday's in Puerto Madero. 
I was born in London, and have lived in New York, San Francisco, and Philadelphia. I have no idea, Larry, of what you are talking about when you say that it is dangerous to walk in Buenos Aires. I, like you, am a walker, and had no problems with sidewalks or crosswalks.
Yes, there are beggars in BA. In fact, I was approached by a few in Plaza San Martin (as I sat on a bench), and even on posh Av. Alvear. But, maybe I am inured because of my travels to India, Nepal, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, and Thailand. In these countries, beggars are extremely tenacious.
You did not offend me, Larry. I was just looking for a more balanced report.
Cheers, guv.
I was born in London, and have lived in New York, San Francisco, and Philadelphia. I have no idea, Larry, of what you are talking about when you say that it is dangerous to walk in Buenos Aires. I, like you, am a walker, and had no problems with sidewalks or crosswalks.
Yes, there are beggars in BA. In fact, I was approached by a few in Plaza San Martin (as I sat on a bench), and even on posh Av. Alvear. But, maybe I am inured because of my travels to India, Nepal, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, and Thailand. In these countries, beggars are extremely tenacious.
You did not offend me, Larry. I was just looking for a more balanced report.
Cheers, guv.
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