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Buen Vieje, shillmac!

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Old Oct 26th, 2004, 07:35 AM
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Buen Vieje, shillmac!

Have a fantastic trip with your daughter. Awaiting your report! "Molly"
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Old Oct 26th, 2004, 12:21 PM
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Thanks, M2!
Just finishing up at school--I think it's all done! Now I'm hoping NOT to get the stomach virus between here and Costa Rica tomorrow morning. We've been sending kids home from school all day, and I've washed my hands about 15 times! Thanks again!

To all those who helped with Puerto Viejo suggestions, we finally decided on Almonds & Corals Tent Camp---just because it sounded like an interesting experience, and we didn't want the "resort" atmosphere. Does everyone remember Trish's reports--the hilarious ones from a few months back--I don't think she ever finished!? I believe she and Rene stayed here for a few days and had a crazy time! Hasta luego!
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Old Oct 26th, 2004, 02:50 PM
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Shillmac,

Is that the place where the crabs attacked her red toenails ?

Have a great time!

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Old Oct 26th, 2004, 03:22 PM
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shillmac - have a great time!
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 05:11 AM
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Shillmac,
Have a great time in Puerto Viejo! Hope the weather is great for you and your daughter and if you happen to be around Hotel Kasha (near Punta Uva Beach) in the morning, look up in the trees for black monkeys. They were out every morning we were there and very vocal. And thanks for all your help before I went on my trip there. There is no telling how many people you have given great advice to which in turn made their trip so much better than it would have been without your imput.
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Old Oct 27th, 2004, 05:25 AM
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Hope your trip with your daughter will be a great one as mine was with my daughter in Sept. Thanks for the help you gave us about Costa Rica. You certainly love the country and I feel the same after being there. Beautiful and wonderful people.
How many trip is this for You? Sure you will keep going back every time you can. Noticed you mentioned teaching school What grade? I am a retired 5th grade teacher and am busy planning Rome in January for my daughter for our next trip. Isn't it great to travel with a daughter?
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Old Nov 2nd, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Shillmac! shillMAC! SHILLmac!

So, what nuggets of wisdom are you prepared to impart upon us... those who seek such knowledge?
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 04:45 AM
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TriPLESec, TRIpleSec, tripleSEC!

Still catching my breath and have stayed up most of the night watching the election results (or non results)!

I do have a few nuggets---how did you know???!!!!

IVK: Yes, must have been! I've never seen so many blue crabs--y muy grande tambien! Fortunately, they all took to their respective holes when they saw my red toenails coming! Almonds and Corals--yep.

Tully et al: Thanks for all the good wishes! We had a phenomenal time--the shortness of it was, however, heartbreaking!

C Wooten: We rode bicycles past Kasha several times, and yes, always saw monkeys near there and several other places along the road. The wildlife viewing was good!

Maryanne1: It was a real delight for us to take this little trip together. She and I both love Costa Rica and were long overdue for a "girl" trip. I, too, teach 5th grade and will be eligible to retire after this year. Am thinking of joining my husband teaching across the state line in Texas for a few years. He thinks we need the double retirement to support my Costa Rica addiction. We'll see!

Thanks, everyone, for your kind words. I'll run through the highlights as quickly as I can.

My daughter and I met in Miami on Wednesday a.m.--she flying from LA and me from Dallas on American. We got a super low price--hence the 5 day whirlwind trip. Arrived SJO at 12:30 early afternoon on Wednesday. By 1:15 we were leaving Tricolor and on our way in a little Nissan Sentra, standard shift (which I used throughout our travels to thoroughly terrorize her).

First stop was a little soda in San Joaquin (up the road toward Heredia and about 10 min from the airport) where Carlos serves up the best casado in Costa Rica. We were both starved. I ate many lunches here while in language school at CPI summer of 2003.

Then on to the home (same town) of my host family, who by now I consider just "my family" as they also hosted my younger daughter for 5 weeks this past summer. We had taken them a digital camera for an early Christmas gift and some baby clothes for a new granddaughter. We dropped off the parcels, visited a bit, and said we'd be back Sunday before returning to the airport.

On to Alajuela to Humberto and Carmen's Villa Bonita. We found it to be a great place to stay and it was good to see both of them again--they are a young Tico couple whom we had met in June when they were managing Vida Tropical. They are renting a 6 or 7 bedroom 2 story home in a prime location in Alajuela and are in the process of turning it into a B & B. They have, I think, 4 rooms up and running with private baths, hot water, very comfortable. Pretty back yard, nice indoor atrium (I would love to have lived in this house!).

Villa Bonita is in a great location. Literally only 5 minutes from the airport and only a couple of blocks from McDonald's when you first drive into Alajuela. Humberto had an extra garage for our rental vehicle (operated by a garage door opener which you can take with you if you are out and about).

After a nap (my daughter had flown the redeye from LAX to Miami and was exhausted) we drove over to Las Orquideas for drinks and bocas at the bar, but mainly just to say hello to Alphonso and Edwin and the lovely Swedish lady (her name escapes me) who runs the office. Business was very slow at the end of October and they seemed genuinely happy to see a familiar face and to have someone to laugh and talk with. We had a great time there for 3 hours. All of us went outside off and on to watch the eclipse which we were able to see in its entirety (no clouds--amazing!).

Let me insert here a little tip that I think is a good one for long layovers such as my daughter had (she arrived Miami and 5:00 a.m. and I didn't get there until 10:00 a.m.). She paid $50 bucks for a daypass to the Admiral's Club. She was able to have snacks, a very nice private shower, and a place to rest comfortably. I thought it was a great idea. Someone at the airport in LA had tipped her off with that suggestion--good one, huh?

At Villa Bonita, we arose early (6:00 a.m) the next morning because we hoped to beat the rushhour traffic to San Jose (since we were driving through there to Limon). Well, shucks, we left about 15 minutes later than intended and it made all the difference. Got into peak traffic and it took us over an hour to get to San Jose!

Stopped on the Paseo Colon for colones from an ATM, then made our way out of town toward Limon.

This is a great drive, and you aren't very many minutes out of town until you hit the breathtaking scenery of the Braulio Carillo Parque Nacional. I love it through here.

The drive was uneventful (unless you consider the near death experiences my daughter thought she had). I kept telling her--you gotta keep passing or you'll never arrive!!! And, as most of you know, you have to drive WAY more aggressively than usual!

We arrived about 1:00 at Almonds & Corals Tent Camp. It is located just 2km north of Manzanillo and is pretty much the last hotel on the road.

All in all, we liked it here and I would stay again. The tents were quite comfortable (after all, they were fancy tents with nice little hot water showers). The food was okay--not wonderful, but okay. I have only two complaints!

1: The price is steep for this side of the country which is generally much less expensive than the Pacific--$60 per person per day includes breakfast and dinner. My gripe: For breakfast, we were served a fruit plate, little rolls, gallo pinto, and a scrambled egg (or fried). The other items on the menu (pancakes, French toast, bacon, sausage, etc) were each $2 extra. I truly believe we should have had anything on the menu we wanted for the price we paid. Like, don't include 2 meals in our price and then place limitations on one of them! That's just wrong. And most hotels in Costa Rica that advertise a full breakfast give you just that--a FULL breakfast.

2: They were good to call someone to help with our luggage when we arrived, but when we left, we had to haul it to the car ourselves. I thought that was a little discourteous. Of course, I could've requested someone, but I was just curious to see if they would offer--they didn't.

Two small issues, but things like this separate good hotels from GREAT hotels.

Highlights of our time in Manzanillo:

--dining at La Pecora Nera just up the road toward Puerto Viejo. It is an excellent Italian restaurant. A little pricey, but should not be missed. We had lunch there one day. OUTSTANDING!

--renting bicycles and riding to Manzanillo twice (I love this place. There's very little there, and the atmosphere is SO RELAXED!). There is pretty much just the basics of a Costa Rican small town--church, soccer field, and bar! The Bar Maxi at the end of the road from Limon. It has a restaurant and bar downstairs and upstairs I think you can dance at night. We didn't (although we both love to dance), but I've read that about it.

--also we spent most of one fully day on bicycles going to Puerto Viejo (about an hour by bike each way). The riding was a hoot--we both loved it. The weather was GREAT. Humid, of course, but we only had a few sprinkles. Of course, Sept and Oct are two of the driest months for the southern Caribbean.

--stopped at different hotels up and down the road and looked them over. We really liked Aguas Claras--they had the cutest little bungalows on the beach. Also thought the treehouse and the beach house looked like cool places to stay. Also, I'd be happy to stay at Shawandha Lodge. Miraflores looked good as well. So did Pachamama.

We were glad we didn't stay at Las Palmas. I am sure it in nice, on a good beach, etc., but we really weren't looking for a resort experience. I hope this part of the country never becomes "resorty".

--birding with Abel Bustamante. While in Manzanillo, I went by his house to make an appointment with him. He wasn't there so I got his phone number from his brother and left a message that night. Told him I'd show up at 6:00 the next morning and I hoped we could go out. I called again the next morning about 5:45 a.m. and he had gotten my message and was ready to go! He was almost as excited about birding as Marino at Savegre, Molly! We had a great time. He charged $25 for an unlimited amount of time. Unfortunately, we were leaving on this day, so I only had a couple of hours. We were able to see about 35 species in this amount of time. I have a funny story about that, but will have to finish the post later. Duty calls. Bear with me--our short trip is almost over!! Will post later today.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 06:24 AM
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Welcome back Shillmac, I'm glad you and your daughter had a great time but I for one, I know there are many, really missed you on this board!
Was the woman at Orquideas named Berit? I like her a lot.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 06:54 AM
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Shillmac, you're back!! I laughed to see that you went out of your way to arrange a birding trip! My teeth are chattering just to hear you describe the driving - you are sooo fearless! Thanks for the excellent report.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 07:12 AM
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Great choice -Almonds & Corals! Stayed there a couple of years ago. Wonderful experience sleeping and waking in the tents with the jungle sounds. Staff were great and there is a nice beach steps away. Hope you have a great time!
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 08:22 AM
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I think we are all a little twisted--I missed you guys as well! Sick. . . . .

Anyway, about Senor Bustamante. He asked me to wait 15 minutes so he could "take" breakfast. When I showed up, he told me we would take my car up the road a short distance (between Manzanillo and Almonds & Corals), park up a side road, but walk along the main road to spot the birds. He said that when we were finished, we would go to my hotel and make our list, then I could take him back home. About a 5 minute drive, but a much longer walk.

Well, we parked, we saw, we made our list, I paid him, tipped him, introduced him to my daughter who was waiting in the lobby, and we said our goodbyes. We proceeded to the tent to gather our things when I remembered I was supposed to take him home. We literally raced to the car, went lurching out of the parking lot and onto the long rocky road leading to the highway. We found him walking along looking up in the trees! Both of us cracked up. He was so content to be walking back home and was going to refuse the ride, but I forced him to get inside! It was just so cute to see him walking along, with his backpack enjoying his birds. He was an excellent guide.

So now it is time for us to make our way back toward San Jose and south to La Finca Que Ama for the night. Running late because of my birding adventure (I had a hard time convincing the man to stop), we pack up, check out, and off we go. More later!
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 08:54 AM
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Molly: No, I'm not fearless! You should hear me rant and rave when my husband is driving! You know, it's different when it's you and not someone else! Yes, I thought about you while birding. I really enjoy having that new hobby, and am hoping someone will take the hint and buy the Guide to Costa Rica Birds book for me for Christmas! The Skutch book--by the way, Abel told me he (Skutch) died recently--100 years old. Maybe birding prolongs life???

Ally: Berit, yes that's it. She is always very good to allow me to use her office phone for my AT &T card. By the way, Neta filled me in on Rick's architect! She is so excited for you both! --as am I! Have decided I will visit Nosara when you get established there and not before!!!

Jamamac: Yes, the staff was very attentive at A & C. In fact, one of the servers in the restaurant was a little too attentive--to my daughter mainly. Now I don't mind that--am used to it BUT he made quite a nuisance of himself and acted rather silly while doing it. We could hardly eat a meal in peace. I thought about complaining, but decided against it. For example, he would hover nearby and then walk over and say to her, "I see you don't care for your food"--trying to be funny, I suppose, I don't know. It was odd. The second time he did that, she looked up and said rather sharply--"Did I say that?!" Well, he seemed taken aback and backed off a bit after that.

On our second night, we took the guided night hike. I had done this once before with Philip at Bosque del Cabo. Thought it was excellent with him. It had lasted about an hour around the grounds there at BDC. Well, this one lasted 2 hours through the Nature Park there at A & C. Two of the girls on staff led about 12 of us through there. It was okay, but we didn't see much--not compared to BDC. We did end up standing in the middle of a bunch of leaf cutter ants and I got a few bites on my feet. It was kind of funny because I put my flashlight on them and immediately began stomping and announced "Leaf Cutters!". There were about 8 people behind me and they all began to stomp as well-- I guess everyone assumed that if the ants were on me, they were probably on them as well! There was a whole lotta stompin' goin' on! We finished the hike just before 11:00 p.m. It was a little difficult to get up for birding the next a.m.--the howlers helped immensely!
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 10:21 AM
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Welcome to the wonderful world of birds! It will add a whole new dimension to your trips down there. Would love your list of birds seen. As you have probably read, we are pretty serious birders. We will be heading down along the Caribbean coast ourselves this year on our way to Panama.

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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 12:46 PM
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There is a very good reason why it is never advisable to try to micromanage in advance your time in Costa Rica. Flexibility is always key! We had "planned" to depart Almonds & Corals by 8:00 a.m. en route to Puriscal with the intention of doing at least one of the following:

Cahuita Parque Nacional
Drive through Sarapiqui (northern loop)
Mercado Central in San Jose (it was Sat)

8:00 turned into 10:00. We drove into Cahuita and decided to try to have lunch at Miss Ediths's-- a renowned Cahuita restaurant for many years--followed by a quick hike in the park.

Just suffice it to say that the Caribbean culture was alive and well at Miss Edith's. We were the only customers, but somehow it took almost 2 hours to be served. Yes, we should have gotten up and left. The food was quite good (Creole style), but the woman serving us was noticeably hostile---no clue why? I hope it wasn't skin color--unfortunately, it felt that way. When I went to the counter to pay, she refused to reach out and take the two 5000 colones bills I held out. She held out her hand and gave me a look that said, "Honey, I ain't gonna exert any effort--you put them in my hand". Then she decided one of them was "dirty" and wasn't going to take it. By this time, I was in the same sort of mood she was and told her it was all I had, she could take it or not. She successfully eliminated whatever time we had to walk through the park, so on we went to Limon. The guide books say "muy lento" when describing Miss Edith's. I would add "no muy amable" to that as well!
The food wasn't worth the wait or the poor treatment.

On to La Finca--by this time, we're going to be lucky to make it there by 7:00 p.m.

We stopped for a little snack about 4:00--50 km or so north of San Jose. I called Neta and told her what time to expect us, and onward we drove. Saturday turned out to be a long day of driving and I really regret that we used one entire day of our time driving! All of you who have been know how easily this can happen, though.

We did arrive at La Finca exactly at 7:00 p.m., both quite tired. But not too tired to enjoy a lovely dinner with Neta and Arbel and to catch up on each other's news since our last visit in July. My daughter loved the area and would have liked to spend a couple of days there just relaxing and visiting the nearby towns--one day we will do that! I'd also like to go to Turu-bari.

Sunday a.m., after the usual delicious breakfast prepared by Marguerite, we headed back toward San Jose. Stopped at the Auto Mercado for about 20 bags of coffee and some packages of chocolate covered Cafe Britt macadamias.

By 10:30, we were back in the casa of mi familia Tica visiting and enjoying the entire family. We had a wonderful lunch with them, and they surprised me with a gorgeous wooden clock with a beautiful painting of a little cabin in the woods. I have it hung in our bedroom. It will always read Tico time.

Also, Delsey, the matriarch of the family, had made a beautiful little 3 piece dress and bonnet outfit for my soon to be born new granddaughter--the child of my youngest daughter who lived there for 5 weeks this past summer while in language school. She sews for all the girls in the family and is an excellent seamstress. That little red and white checkered and lace trimmed baby dress will always be an important memento for our daughter. She was thrilled with it.

And finally, we left the house, stopped by the church where they were cranking homemade ice cream outside--we couldn't resist sampling! It was different, but good. Our drop off at Tricolor took no longer than 10 minutes and we were on our way to the airport for a 3:00 flight. Now that is another story--for later!
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Old Nov 3rd, 2004, 07:03 PM
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Jessie:

Common Black Hawk
Blue Headed Parrot
Slaty Tailed Trogon
Black Headed Trogon
Chestnut Mandibled Toucan
Keel-Billed Toucan
Cinnamon Woodpecker
Chestnut Colored Woodpecker
Black Cheeked Woodpecker
Slaty Antshrike
Chestnut Backed Antbird
Tropical Peewee
Bananaquit
Hooded Warbler
Chestnut Sided Warbler
Montezuma Oropendola sp?
Olive Back Euphonia
Blue Gray Tanager
White Lined Tanager
Summer Tanager
Scarlet Rumped Tanager
Blue Black Grosbeak
Buff Throated Saltator
Rufus Tailed Hermit Hummingbird
Little Hermit Hummingbird
Red Footed Plumeleteer Hummingbird
Long Tailed Hermit Hummingbird
Orange Billed Flycatcher (I think it was a flycatcher--saw this a bit later)
Variable Seedeater

Except for the turkey and several chickens, that's about it! Not bad, I thought, for a couple of hours. Now identifying sounds--that's another thing. Maybe one day!

Yes, it does add a new dimension. Can't see myself getting obsessive about it, but it is enjoyable!



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Old Nov 4th, 2004, 05:46 AM
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Gosh, I can't believe you've now been to Neta's twice, and my husband has been (and Neta was so nice by introducing her architect, Olga, to him, which by now you know he loved both of them and hired Olga) and little 'ole me has still not met her!
In fact, with 11 trips to CR under my belt, I think you've seen more than I have! Ah well, I should be able to explore more once we move there...of course we'll only be able to get out in the height of the rainy season because we'll be booked the rest of the time, right? LOL!
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Old Nov 4th, 2004, 06:00 AM
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Thank you Shillmac, looks like there might be a few that we will be able to add to our list not to mention all the new ones we hope to see in Panama! I am looking forward to our adventure in that area in a couple of months and will avoid Ediths for sure.

I am more of a casual birder than my husband but after so many years of looking even casually I can identify many of my favorites by sound as well as sight.

Congratulations on your soon to be granddaughter. They are a joy...and you can send them home when they aren't!
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Old Nov 4th, 2004, 09:09 AM
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Ally: Actually, we've been to Neta's 3 times. I think she is getting a little vexed with us because we show up late (after dark) and it always seems we have to leave TOO early the next day. I felt bad last week because Arbel is such a wonderful illustrator and writer and they were showing me (for the first time) some of his children's book that he is trying to publish. Absolutely wonderful. And also the cutest little book all about Neta. And I didn't have enough time to enjoy looking at them as much as I would have liked! Arbel had to tell me the stories because they were written in Hebrew! They are such a fun couple. I entertained my husband when I returned with Neta/Arbel stories! I am just sure Rick will be happy with his new ally. (No pun intended). And I am anxious for you to meet them.

Jessie: I was very proud because I found the Hooded Warbler. It was a beautiful little bird and Abel was excited because he said it was only the second time for him to see it. And those s. r. tanagers were everywhere down there! I especially like them! Thanks for your kind words. Our granddaughter will be named Isabelle Mia. And my daughter is determined that she will learn Spanish early on!
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Old Nov 4th, 2004, 03:48 PM
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Sounds like you had a great time, thanks for the nice report shillmac!
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