Ike

I'm thinking about a trip to Belize. Has anyone visited Cayo Espanto Resort near Ambergris Caye. Or can you suggest a high quality, 1st class resort near the ocean with good food and a spa. Thanks.

LanSluder

I was at Cayo Espanto about three weeks ago.

Here's a brief report on it, excerpted from my latest Rambles Around Belize:

Cayo Espanto. You?ve heard about it. You?ve seen photos of it in the glossy travel mags ? most recently on the cover of Travel & Leisure. You?ve looked at the prices, and perhaps gasped. Cayo Espanto is definitely not for everyone, and it?s definitely not the Belize most of us know, but having now stayed there a few gloriously slothful and relaxing days, I can better appreciate its raison d?être and why honeymooners or a stressed-out exec would stay here.

The thing that strikes me most about Cayo Espanto is the level of service. It?s truly unmatched in Belize, and possibly anywhere in the region. A few small examples: When you leave the island, say for a visit to San Pedro or for a snorkel trip, when you get ready to come back, the boat captain bringing you back radios to the hotel your exact time of arrival, down to the minute. Awaiting you at the dock is your houseman (or butler) and a few other staff. They have your favorite drink waiting for you at the dock and offer you a face cloth to refresh yourself. And not just a face cloth, but your choice of a hot or a cold face cloth. Or both. And, of course, on the boat trip out and back you don?t have to sit on the hot plastic seat. There?s a folded towel on the seat to protect your sensitive fanny.

Cayo Espanto sends you a detailed guest survey before you arrive, to determine your preferences in food, drink and such. And, at the resort, the staff does pay close attention to what you like and don?t like. One day we used the paddle boats (complimentary, as are sea kayaks), and we discovered each boat was furnished with a cooler, which had been stocked only with the drinks that the houseman noticed we had favored - red Fanta, Diet Coke and Belikin.

As at Turtle Inn, upon arrival you?re given a walkie-talkie, and you can call your houseman who stands ready about anytime night or day to bring you whatever your heart desires ? your favorite cocktail, a snack, fruit, ice. Not, to my knowledge, dancing girls, but, short of that, most anything.

Meals are mostly served at your villa, overlooking the water. Before dinner the chef comes by to inquire about your preferences for the evening. There are usually a couple of entree suggestions, but if you?d rather have something else, the chef can whip it up for you. Your own personal menu is printed, and you?re welcome to take it with you as a memento. One evening the menu was thus: an appetizer of seared scallops with rice-stuffed cabbage rolls, and a choice of Belizean lobster tail smothered in mango butter with a green papaya salad, or charred strip loin with shoestring potatoes and tequila mango salsa (I had both, of course), and for dessert coconut cake with pineapple chutney and mango coulisse.

Though the private island is quite small, and there are five villas on the island, privacy really is the watchword. Most of the time we were there the island was near its capacity of around 14 people, but we rarely saw another guest, except from a distance on an adjoining villa?s private pier.

We stayed in Casa Estrella. The star house. Ahh!

The villas are airy, with cleverly designed doors that fold back almost completely to provide panoramic views of the water. These are very pleasant spaces, but the villas furnishings are not extraordinary, nor are the finishings remarkably luxurious. The floor first floor of our villa, for example, was a kind of finished concrete, which is understandable given how close the houses are to the sea ? literally only a few feet. Our villa was more like a comfortable, well-designed beach house, rather than a designer home. I did love the upstairs bedroom, with iits king bed, Egyptian cotton sheets and lovely down comforter. With the folding doors pulled back, the view was glorious.

And, yes, this is the bed that Tiger Wood slept in when he was at Cayo Espanto. Or so I was told. As I understand it, Wood was at Cayo Espanto only one night, spending the rest of his Belize trip time on his private yacht anchored off Lighthouse atoll.

At night, if you like, the staff will go around and close all the folding doors, shut the windows and turn on the air-conditioning. Air-conditioning is available only at night, as A/C tends to trip the island?s smaller daytime generator. Although Cayo Espanto is on the back side of Ambergris, in the lagoon rather than in the main Caribbean, there was a good breeze all the time we were there, and it was cool enough without air-conditioning.

Each villa, except one, has its own zero-effect plunge pool. These are indeed splash or plunge pools, more the size of a hot tub than a swimming pool. But they?re fun, and private.

All this privacy, service and personal attention comes at a price: US$895 to $1,750 per day year-round in 2003, except Christmas when rates are a little higher. Rates are going up $100 a day for each villa in 2004. Usually there?s a five-night minimum stay. These rates are plus 21.5% service and tax. Lodge, meals and most drinks are included, but not champagne, wines and cognacs. Fishing, diving, snorkeling and most other trips and activities are extra. For information, see www.aprivateisland.com, or telephone toll-free 888-666-4282.


--Lan Sluder

PeggyE

Lan explained it well so I won't repeat but agree if you have the money, go for it. I loved the privacy, service, food & general sense of calm & just looking out over the blue-green water. It is not the best for diehard swimmers since the tide at the villa was very low & the sea leeches were abundant at the time we went. But for me that was minor, sailing in the Hobie Cat with Salty the dog was fantastic, I swear he knows what "comeabout" means! He is on the cover of Conde Nast is month with an article about Cayo. The only other place I have been with that equaled that type of tropical ambience, seclusion & service is Fiji.

whitesand

Peggy or Lan Sluder,

Can you go into the water at all. I'm assuming there is not a beach area? I wanted to if you can have a float in the water? What about the water clarity? Can you snorkel too? Which resort in FiJi has the same service as Cayo Espanto? Thanks.

LanSluder

The water around Cayo Espanto is really the back or lagoon side of Ambergris Caye. It's not the main Caribbean.

Tthe water here is beautiful to look at, clear and calm, but as Peggy notes it is quite shallow. There's a little sandy area but not a real beach.

Each villa has a dock, very nice for lazing on.

There are a lot of sea leeches, which are small but do attach themselves to you if you swim or walk in the water. We kayaked and paddleboated, but I wouldn't swim. For that, you can go to the other side of Ambergris, where the beaches are much better. Or you can splash around in your plunge or splash pool. The snorkeling is on the barrier reef, again on the east side of Ambergris Caye.

--Lan Sluder