marvontherim

Costa Rica

My wife, two adult sons and their wives, and I just came back from Costa Rica after about a week there. We have received so much information from these forums, I am obliged to tell you how our trip went and maybe pass along some information that will help another traveler.
We left June 2nd and returned the 10th. This time of year seemed great, the weather was good and is wasn’t the high time for many tourists.
In planning our trip we wanted to see as much as possible in the shortest time and weren’t interested in the beach area this time around. Our trip was planned as follows:
Arrive in San Jose spend the night
Travel to Tortuguero the next day for two days
Travel to Arenal for four days and do most of our activity there
Back to San Jose for a day and home
The trip was designed to reduce travel time and do as many activities as possible.
OK here we go, I will list the places we stayed and the tours we took.
In San Jose - Don Carlos Hotel (downtown area, very nice quaint hotel, nice rooms, nice people). The downside is that outside the immediate area, it isn’t safe at night and there are very few restaurants around. I would recommend it, though.
In Tortuguero - Laguna Lodge. ( Very nice. Gaudi references all around , rooms nice, no AC REMEMBER no AC. If you want creature comforts leave this area out. Here you are confined to the area. No where to go or things to do other than the boat tours on the canals every day some times twice a day looking for birds, toucans, crocks etc. The town of Tortuguero is very small and not worth the time. If you are a nature lover and want to relax without any pampering this is your place. Just a few things to remember the trip up from San Jose to Guapiles wasn’t that bad but after that it was terrible. Two hours up to Guapiles, than 2 more on unpaved bumpy dusty roads, than another 1.5 on a boat. Bring inspect repellent and sun screen you will need it. Sweating isn’t optional - it’s very humid. Also if you want to see the turtles make sure it’s the right time of year to go. Guides will take you out for a fee if you see something great, if not tough.
In Arenal we stayed at Silencio Del Campo outside La Fortuna. Very nice rooms very nice people. I would recommend this place. The only downside to this place (as mentioned here before), is the 5 story hotel being built next door. Workers are active from 6am to 10 pm. We didn’t hear anything from our rooms as we were on the far side, but as soon as you step outside it wasn’t Silencio del Campo any more. Not many amenities at this hotel, pool isn’t worth much and if you use it, expect workers to whistle at you. There is no bar at this hotel, just a small restaurant. This is a nice place to stay only. All activities are done elsewhere. Need to take taxies everywhere, but they were quite reasonable - $4 to $6 each way, depending on the driver.

Now for the town of La Fortuna, small town not much going on a number of restaurants, gift shops, hostels, tour companies not much more. If you’re not doing an activity event tour or drinking, this place doesn’t have much to offer.
We booked tours with Wave Expeditions. Very nice people, they went out of their way help and make our tours pleasurable I would recommend them. Talk to Vanessa or Susanna they will help you with anything you need. http://www.waveexpeditions.com/index.html

Tours:
We did river rafting - great do it lots of fun you won’t regret it. Rapids are rated up to 4. I have my doubts 3.5 maybe mostly 3 or below.
Zip lining and horse back great do it fun. If you have vertigo I wouldn’t suggest it, but it is safe.
Baldi Hot Springs. The property is very nice many hot water pools nice layout. If you’re going here to relax “fa get about it“. Music pounding kids running around staff could care less about anything service doesn’t exist. We waited 20 min to get a drink and the bartenders weren’t busy. High priced. They tried to pad our bill by adding drinks we didn’t order. The rushed the bill to the cashier without showing me I had trouble getting them to let me see it but when I did I noticed 7 drinks for 6 people. They put up a little resistance but took the drink off in the end. Here’s another thing about this place only one pool bar takes credit cards all others need cash. Difficult to do when you check all your stuff and are wearing a bathing suit. STAY AWAY FROM THIS PLACE.
Volcano tour. Somewhat boring. You go to a trailhead walk for about 1.5 hours looking for wild life then they drive you to the side of a road at the base of the volcano to see if something happens. You never get close, you’re about the same distance as you would be in your hotel. Bring insect repellent. Your choice on this one. We were fortunate to see some activity, but most people don’t.
Hanging bridges. Nice park about 25 min from La Fortuna could be self guided or hire a guide. Better with a guide you will get more out of it. I would recommend it

Now for the restaurants: We ate at La Chozas, El Novillo, Rufinos, Lava café, Lava Lounge, Luigi’s Pizza and El Jardin.
La Chozas: touristy and pricy but the food is good and I would go back. They have a special that sells itself not on the menu and not advertised. All you have to do is see a platter and you order it. For us about 5 to 6 people $100. Service not great not bad. I would recommend it.
El Novillo: A little out of the way but we heard a lot of good reviews. We were also told it changed hands and nobody locally freely recommended when asked for a good place to eat. Outside, very rustic, service not that great but not worth complaining about. Food was basic very flavorful nothing fancy at all. A filet isn’t 2” thick it’s ½ “ thick and 8” in diameter. This place doesn’t take credit cards cash only. I would recommend it but not as a prime choice.
Rufinos. Nice place in the heart of town. Good looking. Service sucks. These people could care less. Very expensive. The food was either good or lousy. We had ribs, very tough others had fish they said it was good. No welcome no thank no nothing. Stay away from this place.
Lava Café: Had lunch here. Service was OK food was hit and miss. Don’t order the tacos - it’s not what you think. Soup was good. Nothing to write home about. Could take or leave it.
Lava Lounge: For drinks. This is a great place to go if you’re not thirsty. No way you can get drunk here. If you order a drink, do it before you go shopping because it may be made when you get back. Wasn’t busy at all. We were going to order food but decided against it based on the service. I wouldn’t recommend it.
Luigi’s Pizza: For lunch. Nice place, food was good service OK. I would recommend it.
El Jardin across the street from Rufinos: Dinner , Food, service and price were all good. Half the price of Rufinos, not exaggerating. More of a locals environment I would definitely recommend this place.
Café Mundo in San Jose: Good food good service we ate there twice. They got me once on the double tip thing but we enjoyed the place so I really didn’t mind.
The Gardens in San Jose: Only drinks here, restaurant never seemed busy ?????? Bar was fun and one block from hotel.

Some last things to know In Costa Rica you will sweat, no option. You will find sweat dripping down cracks you didn’t know you had. Tipping, they don’t expect or acknowledge it. Giving a $20 tip is as good as $0. No one seems to care one way or another and if you think it will bring better service “fa get about it”. Watch your bill they will charge 10% I.V. and 13% I.S. tax added, one is for state taxes the other is service, so if you ask if the tip is included they will more than likely say no but it almost always is. Bottom line is you double tip if you don‘t check. When you arrive at the airport remember to buy your exit tax charge - it will save you time and grief when you leave.

Loved it, had a great time overall ,you’ll love it too and thanks to all of you who write and provide info, it definitely helped us.

AL

shillmac

Thanks for your very informative report. You had exactly the opposite experiences at a couple of places than us (thought El Novillo and Don Rufino's both very good), but everyone views things differently! We've never encountered all that slow service either--too bad it seemed to happen to you so often!

The 23% add-on at restaurants has been the same for years. It is, as you say, 13% tax and 10% service charge. Extra tipping isn't necessary, but for excellent service, a bit extra is still in order. Just as in the U.S., the amount of the tip often depends on the level of service.

The Hotel Don Carlos is actually in one of the better parts of town--good for stepping out in the daytime. NO AREA of San Jose is good for walking about at night. You just don't do it. Once you understand "the rules" (and accept that's how it is), it becomes a non-issue.

Absolutely the time to visit Tortuguero is when the turtles are nesting--it makes for a real treat!

The temps have always seemed very comfortable around Arenal--ususally quite cool and pleasant. There are vast areas of Costa Rica (the entire central area) that the climate actually is more like that of Colorado! But on the Caribbean side, like Tortuguero, for example, yes, it is a bit more humid!

Glad you enjoyed your week!

crlover10

hello marv, sounds like you had a great trip. Thanks for the great info.
We are going to Arenal in 10 days and staying at Arenal Springs Resort. Can you tell me which side the lava is flowing down and whether you know if you can see the lava from Arenal Springs Resort?
Thanks, Bill

marvontherim

Hi Bill,
I don't know where your hotel is but I believe the flow is on the north side. You can't get close. You are a long distance from it to see anything. The most you can hope for is to see a pop or poof of smoke some bolders and a red glow with bino's. Quite frankly the volcano wasn't that exciting the rest of it was great.
Have a great trip.
Al

cherbear

crlover10
We were at Arenal in May. We drove up to the Arenal Observatory Lodge one afternoon, had dinner, and enjoyed a pretty good lava flow that evening. Don't be put off by the bumpy drive. We thought it was worth it.
Before dark we had a drink and sat in their lounge area watching smoke puffs as debris rolled down the slope.
The birding from the balcony is also good.