Hello. We are a couple in our late 50's in interested in city culture, food and a nature..
We have booked flights into and out of Bilbao for Dec 22-29..

We are thinking to not venture out of Bilbao till Xmas Day (hence stay for 3 nights, unless you feel that 2Ns are enough?), If we stay 3 Ns, then on the 25th we would like to travel to the country around (west, east, or south) up to 2 hrs drive max. We plan to rent a car. In our list of to do things, we have:

- A) Laguardia, Rioja Alalesa and Logrono to the South (is one day trip enough or we need a repeat visit?). So possibly Dec 25 and Dec 26. If we stay only two nights in Bilbao and could overnight in that area too? Any recommendations for Xmas dinner? Are wineries open on the 25th or 26th?
- B) Santander to the west on Dec 26, only IF no repeat visit will be needed for (A) above. We could skip this trip to the West, unless you feel we can pack it in.
- C) Then on Dec 27 and 28 we are thinking to viisit Zumaia and Getaria to the East, before continuing on eastward to St Sebastian, (possibly including a stop to the Nuevo Bosque de Oma yet time is tight, so I doubt we will have time for it).
- St Sebastian and then Hontarribia:
Q: Should we sleep over at St Sebastian or Hontarribia (which one?) for one or two nights? (27 or/and 28)? any recommendations for 4 star hotels? I am thinking that sleeping over for one night on the 27th would be enough, as this way, we ll also have the 28th to explore and drive back late to Bilbao, as on Dec 29, we have an 11.30 flight to catch. (unless we stay overnight at St Sebastian on the 28th too, hence drive direct to the Bilbao airport on the 29th.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

PS. If you feel that we ought to change the sequence of the above, let me know please

A) If you go to Laguardia or even to Logroño on Christmas Day, you won't find any wineries open on the 25th. Some wineries, but not all, take the entire Christmas week off. You would have to do your research, as in emailing the wineries you´re interested in to ask if they´ll be open on Tuesday, Dec. 26. Again, your research is key. They won't have their Christmas opening hours on their web sites, I don't think.

For dinner on Christmas Day, a Monday, your options will be limited to hotel dining, both in very small Laguardia and Logroño. You'll need to spend the night if you´re able to snag a winery or two visit on Dec. 26.

B). I would skip Santander rather than try to pack it in after a morning of winery visits. No, I wouldn't do it.

C). Dec. 27 and 28. Make sure that the flysch boat tours are running from Zumaia. They're weather dependent. Book here and know that there are no WCs on board and it could be very chilly/windy, and the (excellent) guide gives explanations only in Spanish.

Anything goes weather wise in the Basque Country. It's a rainy area and weather is highly unpredictable at this time of year. If you plan to do a flysch boat trip, weather permitting, it will take up 3 hours of Dec. 27 and you won't have time for the Nuevo Bosque de Oma.

Q: If you stop in Zumaia and spend some time in Getaria, you should move on just to San Sebastián not further on to Hondarribia. But just one night, although SS is small, doesn't really do it justice after a full day of sightseeing in Zumaia/Getaria.
If you spend a second night, to catch an 11:30 flight from Bilbao airport, you obviously should depart in plenty of time, giving yourself a good cushion to make the 11:30 flight. This depends entirely on how much risk you're willing to take and if it's a domestic or international flight. I assume it's a domestic flight and you're connecting home through another international airport? or not?

4-star (not 5) hotels in S.S. for over the Christmas holidays: Book ASAP. Check booking.com to compare prices and amenities.
I'm listing all of these because space at this late date, even though it's off season, a room type that you might want might not be available. I've listed by my favorites

Lasala Plaza (facing fishermen's quarter)
Arbaso (facing the Catedral del Buen Pastor in the city center)
Londres y de Inglaterra (facing La Concha)-public parking
Villa Favorite (gorgeous but very pricey, Michelin starred dining, belongs to L y de I), also faces la Concha
Room Mate Gorka
Catalonia Donostia
Zenit Convento

further afield
Zinema7
Villa Soro (a beautiful little mansion, bike to Zurriola beach, free parking)
NH Aránzazu in Antiguo, walkable to Ondarreta and even walkable to the Old Quarter (Parte Vieja) or easy and very quick on the excellent bus system--parking garage
One Shot Tabakalera, across the bridges near the bus and train stations
Arima, up in the hills and not convenient for just 1-2 nights.

edited: After my long winded reply, can you switch this around to drive directly on arrival. day to S.S. then make your way back-----Getaria, Zumaia, Bosque de Oma, Bilbao, with a day trip from Bilbao down to Laguardia? Can you just reverse the order?

Thank you v much Maribel.

Given your feedback,yes we can reverse the order, it makes sense. So:
A) We land at 11 am on the 22nd and we drive straight to S.S w a possible stop to Getaria only (it will be cold for Zumaia)..Is it enough to stay for 2 nights or should we stay 3 at SS? I imagine that if we stay for 3 nights (22-25), we will have time to visit Hontarribia on Xmas Day time and then drive back to Bilbao, we can arrive late no problem. If so, we ll only have 3 full days to be in Bilbao, one of which will be the Day Trip to Rioja, I get the feeling that won't be enough.
Perhaps, are we better off....
B) staying in SS from 22-24 only and in late afternoon on Xmas Eve (Dec 24) drive back to Bilbao. We can have a late dinner there, I imagine, at a hotel or a restaurant, as long as we book in advance or not bother at all, if we eat a late lunch at SS.
THEN...in that case, we return the car and have 3 full days in Bilbao (25, 26,27) and on the 28th we do a day trip to Rioja & Laguadia eitehr renting a car again or using a bus, perhaps a tour. On the 29th we fly to Athens, Greece and later on to Corfu (our home).

I will check the hotels in SS thank you, we would not mind a 5 star too, if it would be good value for money.
.
Thank you again Mirabel.

After writing that long response, it occurred to me that reversing the order would be much better. I tend to go first to my furthest point on a round trip and then make my way back.

A). Pick up your rental car and drive to SS with a stop in Getaria for lunch. Stay for 2 nights or.... 3 nights in S.S. because you want to visit Hondarribia, but on Dec 25 there won't be anything open in Hondarribia for dining. All the great pintxos bars on San Pedro in the fishermen's quarter will be closed and the fine restaurants, like Hermandad de Pescadores and Alhambra. Even the restaurant in the Hotel Jaizkibel will be closed on Dec. 25.

B). Stay in SS from 22-24, and late afternoon, Dec. 24 make your way back to Bilbao. Poster mikelg can advise you as to what will be open for Christmas Eve dining, most likely in a hotel with a gala, festive and pricey set menu.

With 3 full days in Bilbao, Dec. 25 (a very quiet morning, but since it's a large city, some bars should be open for the pre-lunch aperitivo (mikelg?), Dec 26 and Dec. 27, then on Thursday, the 28th, do your day trip to Laguardia or Haro. Why Haro? ... because Haro is closer to Bilbao, and there are 7 wineries in the Barrio de las Bodegas in the lower town, and most now have nifty wine bars that don't require a lengthy 2+ hour tour, such as my favorites, Gómez Cruzado or La Rioja Alta next door. Rioja Alta also serves snacks. There's also CVNE, Roda, Muga and Bodegas Bilbainas with wine shops/bars in this same walkable area. But again, google "bodegas en Haro" and email each winery that interests you to make sure they'll be open on Christmas week.

You can visit 2 wine bars in the Barrio de la Estación and drive on for a short visit to Laguardia, or better still, just stay in Haro and have a lovely lunch in town.
Our favorite lunch spot is the 16-seat Alboroque on the Plaza de la Paja (must reserve!) serving updated, creative cuisine.
In Haro there's also Terete for roast lamb (only) and Beethoven (wine, tapas, sit down very traditional Riojan fare), just up from the Plaza de la Paja in La Herradura, or Arrope in the center or Los Caños, newly renovated by the 1 Michelin star chef next door at Nublo (both in the same family) in La Herradura bar area. Some of these should be open on Dec. 28.

For a wine tour to the Rioja wine region from Bilbao, I use Tours by Basques for a stress free premium guided tour if a guide is available....some wine guides simply take the entire Christmas week off to be with their families, or to travel themselves, as is natural...since the Christmas period is a very sacred family time here. Or you can rent a car again for the day, or if going only to Haro, which is simpler, take the bus. It's a little over an hour bus ride from Bilbao to Haro. There are buses from Haro to Laguardia but you'll be very dependent on the bus schedule, so I wouldn't use the bus from Haro to Laguardia.

Meant to add: the 5-stars in SS, the Marriott branded María Cristina and the new Nobu aren't a "good value" for the money unless for the former you have Bonvoy points to use. The other 5 star, Hotel Restaurant Akelarre Relais Chateaux is way up on Monte Igeldo and not convenient for touring the city, although the rooms are huge, the views spectacular, and there you have 3 star Michelin dining.

Thank you so much Maribel, you are an amazing Concierge! ;--)
I will follow up your advice ref Haro and the wineries.

At SS I ll book soon either the Hotel Arbaso or the Hotel Catalonia Donosti. Do you have a preference?
Both are priced at 230 euros (+ 140 euros for two breakfasts for two days) but the Catalonia has a bit of a larger room. For the same size rooms, Arbaso is priced higher, at 264.

I feel the breakfast prices are high and I am sure we ll find a nice cafe for pastries.

Yes, I do have a preference. I love the Hotel Arbaso, its location and its terrific Narru restaurant with a great chef, Iñigo Peña.

At the Arbaso you'll only be a 2-block walk from the Mercado de San Martín and inside you'll find plenty of pastries at the Taco and Ja stands.
Downstairs inside the Super Amara supermarket, there is a coffee bar.

Otaegui at San Martin 30 is my favorite pastry shop. Their pantxineta is wonderful.
https://pasteleriaotaegui.com/en/

Thank you very much Maribel for all these tips! I am a pastries and postres fan!

I have booked the Arbaso hotel for 22-24. Do you have a recommendation for another restaurant, for our first dinner on the 22nd? I am planning to book the Nuru for Saturday the 23d.

Having realised the cost for overnight parking and that S.S is an almost pedestrian city, I have come to the conclusion, that we will be better off with a round trip public bus journey from Bilbao airport to Domosita- S.S.and back. Most probably we will rent a car for the Day trip to Haro, Laguardia, as I also get the picture that Bilbao is well served by public transport.

I hope to hear from Mikel regarding Bilbao.. Does he have a user name that I could address him at, in a chat?

Thank you.

I do love Narru. Speaking of Narru's chef, Iñigo Peña.....he's a very good friend of Pablo Loureiro, the chef of Casa Urola in the Old Quarter. (That's where I met him). These two are the new generation of Basque chefs. I would definitely book Casa Urola, as in my book it's THE most reliable, consistent, creative restaurant (and downstairs pintxos bar) in the Old Quarter. But book ASAP, while tables are still available for Dec. 22.
https://casaurolajatetxea.es/reserva-tu-mesa/

Yes, overnight parking is very expensive.

I do take the Pesa bus to go back and forth.
https://www.pesa.net/pesa/en/horarios

Mikel is a poster here, mikelg. You can send him a PM and tell him that the rec comes from me. He may be off traveling with his family during your visit, enjoying a Christmas vacation, but he may be able to point you in the right direction.
Alternatively, you can go down south to Haro from Bilbao by bus and make your way to the lower town, the Barrio de las Bodegas or Barrio de la Estación and hope that one of the wineries will be open for visits or at least that their wine bar-shop will be open.

Hi Maribel...you´re right, I happen to be in the US now, visiting my host family 30+ years ago, up in Wisconsin! Currently in Chicago before leaving for Bilbao next Sunday. I got a message from Aeolus and answered some of his questions, but he may want to ask here in public. Hope you´re doing well, thanks for your kind words! Big hug!

The "aperitivo" is one of the best things about Spain and so largely unknown by visitors. Yes, most bars will be open in Bilbao for this pre-lunch activity, where friends and family meet around 1pm for a couple of hours enjoying glasses of wine, beer, vermouth (our vermouth, not the US type) and pintxos!!!

Hola mikelg,
I thought you might be traveling! You're in the US and we're in Spain! See you in the New Year.
Hugs!

In Oct 2018, I stayed three nights at San Sebastian, one night at Zumaia, and five nights at Bilbao. Saving the west coast from Bilabo for a future trip. Comments on Bilbao day trips, by public transportation:

- The Geopark in Zumaia was one of my trip's highlights. Easy and scenic walks from the center of town.

https://geoparkea.eus/en/what-see/ro...the-viewpoints

- Portugalete was a short bus ride from Bilbao. The Vizcaya Bridge was an engineering marvel.

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1217/

- I haven't watched Game of Thrones (a minority?), so Gaztelugatxe wasn't that interesting to me.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaztelugatxe

- The coastal walk from Bermeo to Mundaka was delightful.

- At Guenica, there was an outdoor replica of the painting. And a Monday market.

Reproduction of Guernica by Picasso

I always seek out these quaint towns and villages on every trip.

Thanks for your indications on your trip. As a side comment, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is *now* famous for Game of Thrones, but it´s a very symbolic place for us Basques and it´s a real pity that many people get there just because it was shown on GOT. The hermitage was a 10th century fortress and was there way before GOT.

As per Gernika, the most important place not to miss is the Assembly House, one of the oldest ways of government in the world, still (very) active (it´s a real government body, since at least the 9th century) and one of the reasons why John Adams visited the Basque Country with his two sons, John Quincy and Richard, who stayed in Bilbao in 1780 for almost two weeks, on their way to Paris. Kings of Castile, now Spain, have been coming to this place to swear to respect our laws.

Maribel, MIkel, Planwell, thank you all very much for your valuable insights.
We do not mind that certain places, like wineries will be closed, we will call them up once we are in Bilbao. Your Basque history is very interesting and we will be honored to be there over a week at this time of year. We have not booked our Bilbao hotel yet (Mikel thanks for your PM w recommendations) as we have been too busy, but I ll do that very soon. .
At Nuru restaurant at the Arbaso hotel, they have an extravagant fab looking menu on Xmas Eve and the thought of staying over night also on the 24th crossed my mind. Hence traveling to Bilbao on the 25th. One festive dinner, either at S.S on the 24th or in Bilbao on the 25th (apperitivo at lunch time sounds geat) would be fine for us. What do you think-suggest? If we arrive at Bilbao on the early afternoon of the 25th, we would wonder around town and I guess our 'proper' sightseeing would be on the 26th and 27th, assuming that on the 28th we go to Haro and perhaps to Vittorria-Gasteiz on the way back. I doubt we will have time to go West of Bilbao, regardless.

My dillema is if 2 1/2 days in Bilbao would be enough? If not, then definetely, we should leave S.S. on the 24th so that we have the whole (not half) day of the 25th.
Thank you!!!

Don't miss the festive dinner at Narru in the Arbaso. Iñigo Peña is one of the best chefs cooking in Donostia these days. I would stay over the second night at the Arbaso then take an early Pesa bus to Bilbao.

I meant to add that if you stay over at the Arbaso on the night of the 24, the first Pesa bus on Dec. 25 to Bilbao departs at 8:30 am and arrives at 9:45. The second bus departs at 9:30 and there's also one at 10:30, then hourly on the half hour. I just checked the Dec. 25 schedule at www.pesa.net. Put in Donostia-San Sebastian as your origen.

Two and a half days in Bilbao should be good. If you arrive on the 25, try to get here (I live in Bilbao) by latest noon, to enjoy the aperitivo time before lunch, streets will be packed with families and friends having pintxos and wines until around 3pm, when Christmas lunch usually starts. Plenty of activities going on in the city on 26 and 27, so timing seems right.

We have had a fabulous dinner at Casa Urola at S. S. last night Maribel, thank you so much! Tonight we ll try Narru and on Xmas eve we'll have lunch at Zizpa as most places are closed for dinner. On Xmas day we go to Bilbao Mikel staying at Radisdon Collection Hotel. Thank you so much for your kind assistance. Merry Christmas to you

Thanks so much for coming! Do not miss the Olentzero parade today at Donostia-San Sebastian, it´s the bearer of presents to the Basque kids (and adults!!) and it´s full of our mithology. Radisson hotel is very centrally located, in the center of the city, you can walk anywhere from there. Zorionak eta Urte Berri On!!

So glad you enjoyed Urola and hope you have a great dinner at Narru tonight—-great grilled whole fish and fab txuleta.