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Worth Seeing in SW Ireland?

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Old Apr 10th, 2007 | 03:42 PM
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Worth Seeing in SW Ireland?

My husband and I will be going to SW Ireland this July...can't wait! I've spent a lot of time reading guide books and posts and have come up with an itinerary that is a compromise for us. I would like to spend more time in one place and he wants to see as much as possible. We like scenery, history, hiking, birdwatching, fine dining, pubs, music and Irish beer; I'm mid-40s, he's late 50s. We'll fly into Shannon, be in Adare for 3 nights (he's playing golf with some family members who are going on to a meeting in Dublin afterward) then we're 2 nights in Kinsale, 1 in Kenmare, 1 in Portmagee, 2 in Dingle, 1 in Lisdoonvarna and 1 in Kinvarra. We're staying at the airport hotel our last night as our departing flight is early. I've booked B&Bs in all of the towns already. We're renting a car, of course.
Here are some things we're thinking of doing...looking for thoughts and tips:

Rock of Cashel while he's golfing
Jameson Distillery in Midleton enroute from Adare to Kinsale (I know, it's east)
Desmond Castle in Kinsale
Mizen Head
Derrynane House
Valentia Island (not doing Skelligs because I can't handle rough seas and he's not much on heights)
Cahirciveen archaeology tour
Blasket Islands
Cliffs of Moher
The Burren
Dunguaire Castle Banquet

Anything in this vicinity that we should absolutely scratch or add?

Any recommendations for restaurants or pubs?

Thanks!
DelDenise is offline  
Old Apr 10th, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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If your husband can't handle heights, you may want to skip the Cliffs of Moher. The scenery there involves looking down over steep cliffs to the ocean below as well as looking out over the surrounding landscape.
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Old Apr 10th, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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Eyes:
I can't handle heights and I've been many times to the Cliffs of Moher. I really can't figure out what you are talking about. You don't go near the edge. Maybe you are thinking of some place else?

DelDenise,
I like your itinerary.

Regards, Joan
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Old Apr 11th, 2007 | 03:36 AM
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There is notnhing wrong with Portmagee and Valentia Island but if your not going out to the Skelligs I would suggest you think about an extra night in Kenmare or Killarney. There is the National Park and the Gap of Dunloe for scenery and hiking and the Ring of Beara for a great coastal drive. In Kinsale take the walking tour out of the Tourist office, it lasts about an hour, lots of local history. Stop in the Pub at the Kinsale Brewery for some great Irish Lager made right there. A word of caution about Mizen Head, you have to walk across an older wooden bridge that spans a rocky gorge. My wife closed her eyes and ran across. You then have to walk down a load of stairs to the signal station that sits out on a rock outcrop. Its lovely and I urge you to give it a try but you did mention heights. Have fun
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Old Apr 11th, 2007 | 04:54 AM
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Kinsale is the best place in the world! When you are there your simply have to walk up the hill to The Spaniard pub - its the best place and often overlooked by visitors, but not by locals. Also go out to The Old Head of Kinsale. If you are going back via Cork City detour to Cobh and soak up the history on the waterfront where the passengers on the Titanic embarked.

When in cashel - the rock does not take too long - visit and have lunch at the cashel Palace Hotel, this is where the bishops lived and its very grand for the Irish midlands. If you fancy walking off your lunch then stop at Rockwell College. Its a shcool about 5 miles outside town on the main route to Cork. It has a lovely lake and gardens - I went to school there and its a nice break to the journey especially if the weather is nice. If you plan to head as far south as Mizen Head then make sure you stop in Crookhaven, its ones of the worlds best places! Enjoy your trip it sounds fantastic!
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Old Apr 11th, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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Thanks everyone for your posts! The info is duly noted. Now if only July will get here soon!
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Old Apr 11th, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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There is certainly no issue with heights at the Cliffs of Moher. The whole area has been redesigned making it difficult to get anywhere near the edge. I agree with John that staying 1 night in Kenmare and another in Portmagee doesn't make a lot of sense. In July I think I would choose Kenmare over Killarney just because of crowds. Both will be busy, Killarney will be crazy. I'd put 2 nights in Kenmare.

Desmond Castle now houses the international museum of wine.

In July you would probably have a difficult time getting out to the Old Head as it's a golf course and they generally don't allow folks not playing to drive out there. That said, it may be possible to make reservations to dine out there. I've never tried. It's one of the most spectacular golf courses in the world (http://oldhead.com/) and rather pricey to play.

I also don't know if I would move from Lisdoonvarna to Kinvarra. I would pick one or the other or perhaps stay in between at Ballyvaughan.

Bill
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Old Apr 15th, 2007 | 05:47 AM
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Thanks again to everyone for their advice. wojazz3 & johnod, I understand where you're coming from in recommending that we stay two nights in Kenmare and two nights at one spot instead of one each in Lisdoonvarna/Kinvara. I've arranged it this way because of what we're planning on doing to minimize driving at night and to our "sightseeing" spot the next a.m.
We will definitely stop in Cobh on our way from Midleton to Kinsale and stop in the Brewery and Spaniard in Kinsale, and then Crookhaven on our way to Mizen Head. Is there a place to lunch in Crookhaven? Also, the uber touristy things we're doing such as touring the Jameson Distillery and going to the banquet at Dunguaire Castle--are they worth the time and money? Thanks all!
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Old Apr 15th, 2007 | 06:08 AM
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In Crookhaven, you can lunch at the Crookhaven Inn, then head down to O'Sullivan's on the water for a pint.

As you are leaving Crookhaven, right before you go around the loop on R591, there is a road that leads off to the left and up the hill. It's a dead-end road with turnaround at the top. Some great views of the harbor from there.

If you zoom in on Mapquest, it's marked "Mallavoge Ballynaul."
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Old Apr 16th, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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I've never done the Jameson tour. I've done Kilbeggan (very small) and Bushmills. There is no longer any distilling being done at the Jameson site in Dublin. It's all done in Middleton.

I've done both the Bunratty and Dunguaire castle banquets. I preferred Dunguaire. It's much more intimate and it seemed like the food was better though it may have just improved generally over time. It certianly is touristy, but of note, it's not unusual for some of those tourists to be Irish. You need to book well in advance, especially for July.

Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old Nov 19th, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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what were the B&s you used and what did yo think of them?
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Old Nov 19th, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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lesleya, Take a look at trip reports. One that comes to mind is by Melissa5. She mentions quite a few B&Bs.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...mp;keyword=134
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Old Nov 20th, 2007 | 01:01 PM
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Deldenise,

some brief comments on your suggestions:

Rock of Cashel while he's golfing: Yes. If you have time you can also take in Holycross Abbey, about 10 miles away, along a quiet road. About halfway along (at Boherlahan) there is a tiny church built by the 19th century travel magnate Charles Bianconi that was also used by Daniel O'Connell. Holycross is an 11th Century monastery restored and holding a relic of the True Cross (maybe!).

Jameson Distillery in Midleton Yes -also a good farmers market in Midleton.

Desmond Castle in Kinsale: Kinsale in general is great (but might be crowded by Irish standards). Charles Fort on the opposite side of the harbour is impressive.

Mizen Head: OK but your Kerry leg is somewhat similar and it may be worth conserving your energy.

Derrynane House: House is OK (inc D O'C carriage) but the beach is better (and free)

Valentia Island (not doing Skelligs because I can't handle rough seas and he's not much on heights): Good idea. If heights/narrow roads are an issue, avoid the slate quarry on Valentia.

Cahirciveen archaeology tour: Not sure about this. Cahirsiveen always struck me as being a mean sort of town.(Apparently there has been a decades-long dispute between businesses on the North side of the street [note singular form] and the South side. Noone remembers why!)

Blasket Islands: Yes - not a lot to do but great atmosphere.

Cliffs of Moher: Fine interpretative centre there now. Don't worry about the height.

The Burren: Top attraction. Great for rambling - more flowers than birds though. The coast road from Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan is great. On your left fantastic sand dunes at Fanore, great music in Doolin. On your right rolling hills of limestone. If you can, get Tim Robinson's Map of the Burren. It has all the folklore charted out and don't miss travelling up the Khyber Pass.

Dunguaire Castle Banquet: might be cheesy.

Other things: don't forget to do nothing some of the time. Another attraction might be a hurling or football match. www.gaa.ie will give you an introduction. Large-scale games may take place at weekends in either Killarney, Limerick, Cork or Thurles (nr Cashel) but during the week local club games will be in many small parishes. Everyone will know when and where and in many ways they are more interesting. Hurling is a more skilful and authentic game than football.

Again, if you want to save some time/energy, you could consider dropping the Dingle night in favour of an extra night in Kenmare or a night in Cork city.

Have a good trip!

Tim
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Old Dec 15th, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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Don't bypass Skibbereen! It's a charming place, usually overlooked by tourists. If you have any Irish ancestry you will be moved to tears when you visit the Famine Cemetery.
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Old Dec 17th, 2007 | 02:49 AM
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If you're in Midleton around lunchtime, go to Farmgate for lunch. I ate there on a recent trip to Cork and absolutely loved it.
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Old Dec 17th, 2007 | 02:57 AM
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OP was asking about info for a trip in July -- 1st entry was dated April. I imagine that they have gone.

Bob
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Old Dec 17th, 2007 | 03:39 AM
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Oh my apologies - I thought that was posted on the 4th October! I did wonder why they said "this" July!!
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