Perhaps it's my perceived attractiveness of the city from photographs or perhaps it's the history, I always think I would include Nafplio on any visit to Greece. You just confirmed by feelings about it.

And I understand your comparison between something from Greece and something from Korea. I had a similar experience on Easter Island today; the former housing structures in one village reminded me of Newgrange in Ireland.

Once again, I am so thrilled to find that so many of you are hanging in with me on this LONG trip report – thanks so much!

@ xcountry:
… OMG! Your son, and the rest of your family, are (as you know!!!) SOOoooo very lucky! But now that you have shared the information that I might have needed to ensure my survival, I must ask you a question: Did you, perhaps, have some ulterior motive in making sure I received your recommendation of the Dafni? Hmm? Well, if so, your plot was foiled! And I’m VERY glad that you’ve read along far enough to realize that I survived my time there. I hope you were in suspense from my very first post! ;-) ;-) ;-)

… And oh yes, I agree -- Nafplio is truly beautiful. And such a perfect base for so many points of interest!


@ travelerjan: There’s so much to see in the area around Nafplio, isn’t there? I suspect that sites like the House of Tiles are an acquired taste. Honestly, I can understand that many people would look at it and think, well, that just some old foundations and bits of dusty walls.… But I have acquired that taste, and I’m glad very glad I stopped in Lerna -- I was awed! I hope you get there some day.


@ joannyc: I’m glad you are still following along! But I’ll leave the photography to those who, like you, have the knack of capturing the essense of an experience in a picture. And OMG, you do have that knack!


@ tripplanner:
… Wow, you’ve spent the day on Easter Island?!? That must be an awesome experience!

… It won’t be the same kind of experience (of course), but I agree that Nafplio would be an excellent choice for ANY visit to Greece.

heimdall:

You're correct and thanks for checking me on my gradual hijack of kja's trip report, didn't mean to do so.


kja:

Apologies for the unintentional hijack of your report. I will heed your advice and start my own thread when the time is right. I guess you stoked my newfound interest in Naxos. Now on to your report.

Sounds like Sonia was right on time with her orange liqueur concoction! I am thoroughly enjoying your vivid and atmospheric descriptions, e.g. the hovering birds, cloud cover. One can actually envision your travels.

Nafplio's a place I wish I'd had more time for on my trip to Greece. Epidauros and Mycenae are truly amazing, not just the sites themselves but the settings as well. I was quite wowed by the landscape.

As for the differences between the Myceneans and Minoans, I don't know about you but I get the sense that the latter were more peace-loving and open to outsiders. They didn't wall in their cities or have an army of any sort. It seems the Myceneans were generally more uptight and just a tad war-mongering!

Hey, TP! We loved Naphlion too.
Kia, what a wonderful TR. you are making me long for Greece. Were you there in May? Trying to think when it might be less crowded.

kja, still following along and enjoying. You are now into the region that we certainly intend to visit on our trip. Your report will be helpful for our planning.

BTW, maybe everyone knows this already, but I just learned you can pick up reading a long TR by bookmarking the post you want to read next. For example this link gets you kja's Nafplio post:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...mment-10051118

It's faster than having to scroll around looking for where you were last.

Thanks again, kja!

<b>To one and al</b>: My sincere apologies for the bold font through most of my last installment – how irritating!

@ tralfaz: No worries! Thank your compliments – its nice to think that I’ve helped you envision the glorious places I was able to see. … Interesting observation about the Minoans and Mycenaeans!

@ yestravel: And thanks to you, too, for your kind words! Everything I’ve described so far was during May; just my last few days in Athens were in June. IMO, it was a lovely time to be in Greece.

@ Nelson: I’m glad you’re still following along and enjoying it, and I hope my report does, indeed, prove useful as you plan. And thanks for giving everyone that suggestion for finding specific parts of this LONG thread!

(Oops: one and <b>all</b>. I miss our preview function!)


<b><u>Mystras and a tiny bit of the Mani</b></u>

Day 16, cont.

I admired the scenery as I drove into the mountains on my way to Mystras --
• and encountered the mysteries of finding it!
• There was a curious lack of signage about how to reach the ancient site from the modern town, and
• the signage that I did see seemed misleading. As examples, a clearly marked Tourist Information office seemed like it hadn’t been open in a LONG while, and a large sign, in English, on one taberna's window indicated that one should inquire within for information about Mystras, but no one on staff there seemed to speak English.
• I eventually got the information I needed from a tour guide who happened to be passing by with her group and took pity on me.

Planning to start in the upper area, I drove
• up and around and up and up and around and up and (is this sounding familiar?) and around and oh, my,
• That wasn’t the parking lot for the upper entrance, was it?
• Up and around and around and … uh oh, I bet it was. ☹
• Finally finding a place to turn around safely – or at least, reasonably safely!
• I went back down and around down and
• into the parking lot, where I got out of the car and
• walked on foot a bit and
• turned a corner, oh, thank goodness -- the upper entrance to <b>Mystras</b>!
• I got a map of the site, advice about how best to see it, bought some water, and
• Said hello to a sleeping cat and her nursing kitten.

As I climbed to the topping fortress, I treasured the breathtaking views out over the surrounding valley and off into distant mountains.
• Again, I was awed by the dramatic skies overhead, with clouds of every shade of white through black strewn against a remarkably blue sky, with
• Glimpses of rain here and there in the offing, and
• Deeply saturated colors in the shifting light and shade on the ground. Glorious!

As I was turning toward a small covered gateway / guard post, a few raindrops began to fall.
• I stepped into the gate area, and even as I was donning my rain jacket,
• the skies opened to a drenching, chilling, gusty thunderstorm.
• Grateful for my fortuitous timing, I waited patiently as more and more people joined me in this small, protected space.
• As the rain began to diminish just a bit, one young couple decided to venture on, and
• I followed, making it through the entrance to the fortress grounds before
• the wind and rain picked up again, with ferocity!
• I wimped out – I returned to the gate's shelter, and waited for the rain to abate.
• The returning couple assured me that I hadn’t missed much, so once the rain had slowed to a drizzle,
• I inched my way down the slippery stones of the downhill path.
• Later, there were a few raindrops now and again, but I was fortunate -- most of the rest of the day was very nice.

I then visited an awesome array of Mystras’s monasteries and churches.
• As someone with a great appreciation of Byzantine art and architecture (even if not a well-informed one), I was very happy to spend my day at this incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• And I say that despite all the climbing!
• I admit, though, that I was TIRED when I finished exploring these gems.
• And yes, there were more than a few gems –
• some incredibly expressive images, many with traces of once vibrant colors and awesome details;
• wonderfully articulated architecture, with various nuances distinguishing one church from another,
• and a few remnants of intricate floor inlays,
• all surrounded by--and affording views of--delightful scenery.

Turning onto the <b>Mani Peninsula</b>, I had planned to visit Gytheio briefly, but I was running later than I had hoped, and decided to skip it, going instead directly to the
• <b>Limeni Village</b>, where I was greeted very graciously.
• I arrived just before sunset, and so
• dashed onto my balcony, where I sipped wine as I watched the sunset skies over distant waters, and the lights reflected in the waters of the inlet on which this hotel sits, and the changing shades of light on and above the oddly treeless slopes of the mountain across the inlet.
• With a freshening breeze and the sound of the surf far below, it was very relaxing!
• Later, I took a few moments to appreciate the ways in which this hotel has attempted (successfully, IMO!) to convey a sense of the architecture and fortifications of the Mani.
• And I had a pleasant dinner in the hotel's main building.


<u>Day 7</u>

The Limeni Village offered
• a very nice breakfast buffet.
• I also enjoyed spending a few minutes in a small room it has for the display of traditional crafts and clothes and objects from the area. Nice!

It was easy to reach the <b>Daros Caves</b>,
• where I had only a brief harbor-side wait until enough people arrived to justfiy a tour.
• The boat ride through the caves was very pleasant
• (well, except for the woman who seems not to realize how her "private" remarks to her partner resounded loudly – VERY loudly! -- through each chamber).
• Despite some unfortunate signs of damage to the cave's stalactites and mostly submerged stalagmites, this was an impressive cave system with some stunning formations.
• The last part of the tour of the cave itself is by foot, and then one
• Emerges into the sunlight above a glorious inlet of the sea, with
• Fishing and pleasure boats bobbing in the protected harbor, and a
• village nestled at the inland edge of the finger of water, and
• Hills rising from every side, and
• Flowers bedecking the walkway back to the parking lot. Nice!

Driving up and around and down the largely barren and steep hills of the Mani,
• I reached <b>Aeropoli</b>, where I had hoped to see St. Taxiarchia.
• It was closed, but it's exterior held some exquisite features.
• I'm glad I walked around this fascinating town,
• with its delightfully restored traditional Mani towers and flower boxes and interesting nooks and crannies.
• A tall, freshly squeezed orange juice provided the perfect bit of a rest before moving on.

Back on the road, I was in for some stunning scenery --
• And yes, I say that even after commenting on all the glorious views I’d already had on this trip!
• Going through Limeni itself (and with some glimpses back to the Limeni Village, perched on a hill above the inlet),
• I began driving up and around and down that barren mountain that I had seen from my balcony, and
• Then drove a seemingly endless series of switchbacks as I moved from one mountainous promontory to the next, all close to the coast, and
• often with breathtaking views, whether from high above or just beyond the surf hitting a beach.
• And hitchhikers! My goodness, I haven’t seen any of those in ages!
• Too, I saw a number of Mani's traditional tower houses, and an occasional goat or two, and a profusion of glorious wildflowers.
• Oh, I am one lucky person!


Next up: More of the Peloponnese

<b><u>More of the Peloponnese</b></u>

Day 17, cont.

My first stop outside of the Mani Peninsula was <b>Kalamata</b>, with an archeology museum that I wanted to see -- the Benakeion. My
• TomTom "easily" plotted a route. Does the fact that I used quotation marks tell you anything? I think the problem was that it mistook pedestrian-only roads for drivable roads....
• In any case, I drove around and around and parked and got directions -- or tried to do so, but many people I asked either didn't know or admitted that they were only guessing.
• I finally found myself at Kalamata's cathedral, where there was a large and apparently free parking lot.
• I thought I would go inside to ask, and on the way, to the entrance, I used my limited Greek to ask each of the people I saw.
• The first two (it was a large and busy parking lot!) said they didn't know,
• but then a gentleman assured me that I could park there, and proceeded to run from car to car, in the lot and on the street, trying to get an answer for me.
• I tried to tell him not to worry, I would ask in the church, but it seems that I had become his mission for the day.
• He finally fond a pedestrian who knew and then gave me very clear directions. How very kind!

I was, in fact, quite close. Once I found the museum, and confirmed its hours,
• I decided to stop first for a glass of wine nearby.
• As is so often the (much appreciated) case in Greece, it was served with a small bowl of potato chips.
• And then, a few minutes later, the server came back with a plate holding a small serving of freshly grilled squid and a slice of grilled eggplant. OMG! All for less than 3 euros!

The <b>Benakeion Museum</b> is small, but is well worth visiting, IMO.
• It holds a well curated collection of artifacts, organized by the location in which they were found (rather than by time, although information about age is, of course, also presented),
• and it also includes an exhibit featuring Kalamata itself, which was devastated by an earthquake in the 1980s.

The lovingly restored, and very old <b>Agion Apostolon</b> was just steps away.
• It was closed for the day, but the exterior was stunning!
• The <b>cathedral</b> had also been destroyed and rebuilt.
• While I appreciated the cost and effort involved, I must admit that the newer frescoes seemed to me to fall short of the expressiveness of most Byzantine frescoes. JMO.

Next: <b>Mavromati</b>, where I spent the night at the utterly charming <b>Messana B&B</b>.
• After Maria's warm greeting, I took a few moments to stretch my legs and walk just a bit,
• While doing so, I greeted a passing woman in Greek. She stopped, and after exchanging just a few words, she insisted on giving me a gorgeous stem of roses that she had been carrying. How generous!
• I watched the sunset over the ancient site of Messina, which I could see from my room's balcony. If not the most spectacular sunset I've ever seen, it wasn't bad, and ooh, what a setting!

A bit later, I explored a bit of the town:
• I stopped at a nearby crafts shop, where Maria had said that I should be able to buy a bottle of wine. And I did,
• but only after trying to decline, and then agreeing to taste the shipowner's homemade raki -- which he offered not because it was for sale, but just to be welcoming! And I did, indeed, feel warmly welcomed.
• I briefly passed by the town's ancient fountain, and then
• Ate dinner on the <b>Ithomi Taverna's</b> lovely terrace, which I thought very pleasant in the cooling breezes of late evening.


<u>Day 18</u>

I began his day with aonther awesome breakfast buffet, complete with various local treats that Maria prepares. Delicious!

The ancient site of <b>Messini</b> (sometimes spelled Messene) is enormous and fascinating and, IMO, well worth seeing. For me, the highlights included
• the mosaic floors of now-vanished buildings to the outside of the theater;
• The colonnaded stadium;
• The odeon, with its patterned floor, and
• The area by its fountains.
• After many delightful hours on site, I visited the museum briefly, and then
• drove to and through the awesome <b>Arcadian Gate</b>.

From there, I negotiated the series of switchbacks that climbed from a valley floor to <b>Karytaina</b>, perched high – and quite beautifully -- on the slopes of a mountain, and described in one of my guidebooks as a “signature” Arcadian image.
• One thing I can tell you, with absolute certainty, is that it is another place that can be completely, utterly shut up during siesta. During my first hour there, I saw exactly zero humans and one cat.
• Nonetheless, I enjoyed roaming around. The setting was gorgeous, and
• I thought the (closed) ancient Byzantine church worth seeing.
• It was a bit eerie though, as I couldn't see, hear, smell, or otherwise detect any sign of human habitation. By way of contrast, when I roamed around other towns during siesta (e.g., Archanes, on Crete, or Apiranthos, on Naxos), I could at least occasionally hear the strains of conversation or the sounds of cutlery hitting dishes.
• As I returned to my car, a taberna opened. I savored a glass of fresh orange juice while admiring the views and the attentions of a few friendly cats.

As I drove into the <b>Lousios Gorge</b>, my plan was to stop at Moni Philosofou.
• When I was close to Dimitsana, I saw a sign pointing to a steeply downhill gravel road. I don't think so!
• I decided to go straight to my lodging, and see if I had time to find it later.

I thought <b>En Dimitsani B&B</b> delightfully cozy and welcoming!
• I settled in and relaxed for a while on my charming balcony overlooking the gorge.
• My hostess, Angeliki, had told me that there was a road to the Moni Philosofou right next to the B&B, and that it was just 15 minutes away! So off I went.
• It might have been a 15 minute drive for someone who knew the roads, but
• 30 minutes later, I was still navigating a road that was apparently 2-lanes, but so narrow that my tiny Citroen was brushing shrubs on each side. At that point, the road was relatively flat, but there certainly wasn't a lot of space for two cars to get by each other if another car did appear. (And thankfully, none did.)
• It was beginning to get dark, and a mild drizzle was intensifying, and I was getting VERY tired of driving, so
• when I came to an unmarked intersection, I decided that it was the perfect place to turn back.
• Even if it had been just around the next bend, I wasn't chasing that rabbit any further into its hole.

I returned to En Dimitsani, where I sat on my balcony, near the start of the very pretty Lousios Gorge, and looked out over its lush greenery.
• It was drizzling on and off, and was a bit chilly, but I enjoyed the view and
• change in light as day turned to dusk before leaving for dinner.
• With the kind help of a stranger, I found my way to
• <b>To Kapelo Ton Athenaton</b>, which I loved! I had a delicious dinner of ground wild boar stuffed with cheese. I imagine the terrace on which I ate must be stunning during daylight hours.
• Walking quickly in the chilly air, I returned to my B&B,
• where I enjoyed a sip or two of the house raki -- an orange liqueur -- while I readied for bed.


<u>Day 19</u>

After a delicious breakfast, I went to Dimitsana's
• fascinating <b>Open Air Water Power Museum</b>, where
• I learned a lot about fulling, tanning of leather, and the making of gunpowder and raki,
• All with some lovely views of the Lousios Gorge.

Driving through more spectacular scenery, I reached the
• <b>Temple of Apollo Epicurious</b>, which I found mildly disappointing.
• Although I had known that it was under restoration and under a protective structure,
• I hadn't realized how limited one's views are because there is so little space between the temple and the outer boundary of the structure.
• Nonetheless, it was impressive and (of course) beautifully sited.

And then I began the LONG drive -- about 5 hours, not counting breaks -- to Delphi.
• Parts of the drive were gloriously scenic, but
• There was one rather long stretch of flat land (yes really! FLAT land, in Greece!) in the northwestern part of the Peloponnese that was particularly frustrating because of cross streets. Although many Greek drivers ignored the changes in speed limits, I tried to honor the apparent requirement to slow down for a half kilometer to either side of an intersection. Basically, each time I got up to speed (90 km per hour, IIRC), it was time to brake again, and throughout, cars were passing me at high speed. I found it tiring.
• At one coffee shop, I smelled the roses in a vase by the cash register, and the woman working there called out to me as I was leaving so she could give me one. How nice!
• A bit later, I followed a seemingly endless stretch of wide, sweeping turns to climb another mountains ridge, and a
• Seemingly even longer set of broad, sweeping turns down the other side,
• With the beautiful <b>Rio-Antirrio Bridge</b> and <b>Gulf of Corinth</b> near Patras coming into view in the distance.
• Eventually, I crossed that bridge and said farewell to the Peloponnese.


Next up: in and around Delphi

Hello kja! This is going to take me ages to read but I will start right now!

Have been out of touch since I got exiled from the US in February when I lost my Green Card in Costa Rica. It took me until end of July to get back... procrastination, bureaucracy, expense, travels in Europe, Middle East and Ecuador, new granddaughter, any other excuse I can make. Anyway I am back now!

The beginning of your trip made me smile. I was in Chania last week of March and first week of April. I went to exactly the same restaurants as you. Delicious. And saw lots of snow on the mountains too.

Have been to most of the places you mention but it has taken me 4 or maybe 5 trips to do it! And I am far too chicken to hire a car... public transport is fun but slow.

More when I have read your trip report properly!

@ gertie:
… OMG, you lost your green card? And were exiled? I can imagine few people who would deal with all the stresses that must have accompanied these events as well as I suspect you did, and still, no matter how well you dealt with it, I’m sure there were some rough moments along the way! … But wait a second – did you just say you used part of the time to travel? Brilliant! But no more sympathy from me! ;-)
… Seriously, welcome back, and congratulations on your new granddaughter!
… That’s funny about the restaurants in Chania! You had told me that you enjoyed the food in Crete (you said I was in for a treat – and I was!), but I don’t think you mentioned any specific restaurants. Oooh, I did eat well in Chania! (And almost everywhere in Greece!)
… I’m delighted to learn that you are reading along.

<b><u>In and Around Delphi</b></u>

Day 19, cont.

Shortly after I crossed the Rio-Antirio Bridge, it began to rain.
• I was soon driving through the most amazing cloudburst:
• The sky above me and ahead was a dark, nearly black shade of grey and I could see lightning flashes ahead, but
• To my left, blue skies with scattered cumulus clouds topped a mountain ridge, and
• To my right, the Gulf of Corinth and the mountains of the Peloponnese were also under blue skies with puffy white clouds.
• The rain cloud was very long and rather narrow and directly above the road, like a big, dark stripe in the sky. Wow!

In deference to the rain, I was driving a bit below the speed limit, well onto the shoulder, and as usual, cars were whipping past me.
• I rounded a bend and found that one of those cars had flipped over and was half off the road and it looked BAD.
• A number of people had stopped and it looked like they were trying to help. Scary!
• As I inched past the wreckage, I sent my silent best wishes to the driver and any passengers....
• Already tired, I was now also shaken, both psychologically and physiologically, as my body dealt with the adrenalin rush, so
• I pulled off at the next gas station, where I bought gas and paced around for some time while sipping a glass of juice.

When my pulse and breathing returned to normal, I returned to the car and started driving again.
• The rain had slowed to an off-and-on sprinkle, and
• the road began to climb and zigzag up into the mountains and, thankfully, it wasn’t far to <b>Delphi</b>.

• I soon found my destination: the <b>Pan Hotel</b> -- not the best choice of this trip, as the room was cramped and the bathroom was poorly laid out and VERY cramped,
• BUT I had a small, private balcony with a glorious view to the Gulf of Corinth.
• Exhausted after that long drive, and still a bit shaken, I sat on that lovely balcony for qutie some time.
• I slowly recovered with the help of some pleasant wine – another Nemean red, IIRC.
• As dusk fell and the last of the day’s light reflected of the gulf’s waters, lights slowly came on in the town at the gulf's edge (Itea, I believe). Beautfiul!
• That balcony made up for a lot of the room’s flaws!

I had a disappointing meal at the <b>Taverna To Patrick Mas</b> (one of only two disappointing meals I had in Greece, so I’m not complaining) and
• Then spent a few last moments admiring the twinkling lights of Itea before
• Collapsing for the night.


<u>Day 20</u>

After a rather basic breakfast (I had been seriously spoiled by all the wonderful breakfasts I'd enjoyed thus far!),
• I began my exploration of Delphi with the
• <b>Temple of Athena Pronea</b>. So lovely, and so wonderfully sited!

At the awesome, breathtaking, extraordinary main <b>Archeological Site of Delphi</b>, I was particularly struck by the
• Treasury of the Athenians; the
• Temple of Apollo (where, as I've experienced elsewhere, a group of Chinese tourists were NOT going to move on until EVERY single person had gotten an acceptable shot of himself / herself / themselves in front of the extant columns. Sigh);
• the glorious views from the impressive Theater, and the
• Stadium, which I'm pleased to say I thought worth the climb. (I’m also glad to report that there was a small patch of shade just about every 40 or 50 steps up that long, serpentine, uphill path.)
• What a glorious site!
• In one area near the Temple of Apollo, there was a man chiseling the centuries' worth of detritus from a wall, and I couldn't help but think: that man, and those of us watching, are the first people to see that wall in, what, a couple of millennia? Wow!

The <b>Archeological Museum</b> was exceptional, IMO:
• The friezes, the Sphinx, the ceramic dish showing Apollo and a black bird, the bronze charioteer (oh, that charioteer!), and SOOOooooo many other treasures!
• I visited slowly, and then re-visited some pieces and lingered over others until the museum was to close. Such a treat!

I had wanted to see Delphi for as long as I can remember knowing of it. After nearly 3 truly amazing weeks in Greece, and after seeing soooo many wonders, I approached it with a bit of caution: How could it possibly live up to my expectations? I am very happy to report that Delphi easily <u>exceeded</u> my expectations.

I then drove to <b>Arachova</b>, where I
• spent an hour or so walking around.
• As a caravan of tour buses began pulling into the town, I decided it was time to go!
• I returned to the modern town of Delphi, near my hotel,
• where I exchanged some pleasantries with various shopkeepers as I scanned their wares.
• After a long, relaxing break on my balcony,
• I dined at the wonderful <b>Taverna Vakhos</b> -- gorgeous views to the gulf; excellent service; and, along with a delicious salad of fresh vegetables and some kind of luscious goat cheese, another rabbit stifado entrée. (I really must find a good recipe for that!) And, of course, a tasty bite to end a perfect evening.


<u>Day 21</u>

After a quick breakfast, I checked out and headed to the utterly awesome <b>Hosios Loukas</b>.
• A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this walled monastery includes a pair of interconnected Byzantine churches.
• Such glorious mosaics!
• Not to mention its frescoes, and crypt, and museum (with its ancient and remarkably low marble refractory tables, among other things), and example of a typical monk's cell, and views, and ancient stone olive press, and the Roman relief of lions embedded on the church's exterior wall....
• I believe this monastery continues to function. Certainly, the site remains of great importance to Greek Orthodox Christians -- several groups of them arrived while I was there, lead by priests, and what I believed to be a service began just as I was leaving the churches.

I then began another very long drive -- about 4 hours plus breaks -- this time to Meteora.
• For a part of this trip, I encountered another heavy thunderstorm, and
• Again, I could see mountains under clear skies to one or both sides. Oh my!


Next up: Meteora and beyond

I hope some of you are still reading along! Just a few more stops (Meteora, Thessaloniki, and Athens)….

Catching up! Did you trek back up to the parking lot at Mystras, or find something less strenuous?

My favorite place at Delphi was the Temple to Athena - I poured her a libation. (Well, water.) Was disappointed to miss the museum there.

I am so impressed with your travels and how araticulate you are in describing them.

Delphi to this day remains one of those heartstopping places for me. I was in awe of it when I saw it ever so many years ago. It's right up there with Machu Picchu in terms of the reference I feel for it,

Delphi is one "sight" where you realize a major part of the impact is the setting ... the view down the mountain ... even if many of the ancient buildings are gone or in ruins ... Similarly, Phaistos in Crete is impressive due to its high settng looking down over an entire valley ... The Palace of Malia in Crete may have many of the Phaistos characteristics but on a dead-flat field, no vista, it loses some of its importance.

I really enjoyed reading your description of Delphi. I was there in 1972, and I remember it as one of the highlights of my trip to Greece. I don't remember seeing the museum, though. I was with a small tour group, and maybe we didn't have the time for the museum. Too bad. Looking forward to Meteora!

Loving your trip, kja! Feels like we are there with you!

I’m so glad to know that some of you are still following along! Thanks for letting me know.

@ thursdaysd:
… Oops, I failed to mention moving the car at Mystras! After visiting the upper part – the fortress (or at least the little bit of it I saw) and two or three churches -- I moved the car to the lower lot. It was still a ridiculous amount of climbing, but I think I would have had to be carried out if I had had to go all the way back up!
… Isn’t that Temple to Athena glorious? I wish I’d thought to pour a libation – what a great idea!

@ yestravel: Thank you for the compliment, as I am impressed with YOUR travels! I haven’t been to Machu Picchu yet – and am a tad envious of you for doing so. Mostly, I’m just glad that I’ve seen the places I have seen, including Delphi. “Heartstopping” is a <u>great</u> word for it.

@ travelerjan:
... So true -- the views from Delphi and Phaistos really were stunning! The concept of “Location, location, location” seems to apply anywhere.
… When I first started planning this trip, I had hoped to include Malia, but just couldn’t fit it in. I’m sure I would have enjoyed it, but find it reassuring that you thought it somewhat less powerful than Phaistos.

@ KarenWoo: IMO, Delphi could easily be the highlight of any trip, even without its museum, but oooh, that museum was something special! I hope you (and thursdaysd) get to see it one day. Its hours are limited, though, so I can understand that it would sometimes be skipped. Hope you enjoy my report on Meteora, too.

@ joannyc: Thanks again! I’m glad you feel like you are right there with me, as that’s how your photo journals make me feel.

I'm still following along too and enjoying your report. I also know that we would not be able to do as much as you, especially as a non-driver. You're still giving me ideas too.

@ tripplanner: I’m glad that you’re still following along, too! I suspect that I fit more into my trips than most, and am able to do so, in part, because of rental cars. But no reason to do everything – it’s just my preference to fill every possible moment. If my report gives you ideas that help you decide what to do, I’d be very pleased!

After reading your report I realize I HAVE to see Delphi on my next visit to Greece. It's a bit off the beaten path but obviously worth the effort. Sounds wonderful, a special place indeed.

I must say you have guts for driving everywhere. One surely gets to see a lot more that way, but speaking for myself I'd be a nerve-racked mess! I dislike driving on a well-paved, flat road let alone the kind one often encounters in Greece.

Looking forward to your thoughts on Athens and a city about which I know precious little, Thessaloniki.