(hoping -- seriously hoping! -- I turn off bold when appropriate)

<b><u>Athens</b></u>

Day 26, cont.

A cloud cover precluded good views for much of my flight, but there were a few stretches when I had glorious views over glittering seas and steep promontories and cloud-kissed mountain ranges and that tiny strip of greener water separating land's edge from deep blue of the sea because it gets deep SOOoooo quickly off many of those coasts....

I took a taxi to the <b>Acropolis View Hotel</b>, where I treasured my balcony with its views of the Parthenon, but was otherwise not particularly favorably impressed.
• But OMG, the <b>Parthenon</b> – WOW and WOW!
• As I had hoped, I arrived in time to check in, freshen, and
• attend a performance of folk dances at the <b>Dora Stratou Theater</b>, which I
• managed to find with the help of several very kind strangers.
• It was a perfect night for an open-air performance, with comfortable temperatures and just a hint of a breeze.
• I greatly enjoyed the live music and the costumes and the dance, and
• thought about the ways in which line dances allow the elder members of a community to participate in ways that other forms of dance would not. Nice!

As I returned to my hotel, walking now in the dark along a street that did not always have sidewalks
• I realized that I had paid absolutely NO attention to the place where the steps from the street with my hotel had reached the street on which I was walking, and this time,
• I had taken no pictures to help me with exactly such moments. Argh!
• I was just reassuring myself that I should be able to find my way if I did go to far when,
• To my relief, there it was!

I had contacted the restaurant next to my hotel, the <b>GH Attikos</b>, earlier, and
• had been assured that no reservation would be necessary, so I was surprised when they tried to turn me away.
• I protested and explained before the manager agreed to seat me.
• Despite that disconcerting moment, I enjoyed my meal, the service, and the wonderful view of the Acropolis.

Before I went to sleep, I went to my hotel's roof deck for a few moments.
• Like the GH Attikos, and unlike my balcony, one can see more than "just" the Parthenon from the roof.
• At the risk of being redundant, I found ANY view of the Acropolis nearly irresistible. IMO, it truly is magnificent.
• No matter how tired I was (and I was exhausted by the time I returned to my room most nights!), I could not resist a few moments on my balcony for that glorious view of the Parthenon.


<u>Day 27</u>

My plan for the day began with walking by the <b>Choregic Monument of Lysikrates</b> on the way to the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
• After a quick, orienting walk around my immediate neighborhood,
• I walked along the Dionysiou Areopagitou — the wide pedestrian-only marble avenue edging the base of the Acropolis, an avenue that is home to some grand mansions on the outer side, and street musicians and artists, and throngs of tourists.
• Somewhere, somehow, at the end of that avenue, I took a wrong turn and, absolutely sure that I knew where I was,
• I got lost and disoriented! Fortunately, I didn’t get TOO lost, and ultimately, it paid off, as found myself on some of those same streets later during my stay, and so knew where I was when I did.
• With some help, I eventually found the monument in a small, leafy, cafe-filled square that I was to pass many times in the next few days.

Passing through the imposing <b>Hadrian's Arch</b>, I came to
• the <b>Temple of Olympian Zeus</b>, which left me in awe -- soooo huge!
• Despite the increasingly oppressive heat, I took my time walking around that temple,
• admiring each of its columns, standing or fallen, from every angle, and
• appreciating glimpses of the Acropolis looming above in the distance.

I was reasonably certain that I was near the
• <b>Frissiras Museum</b> (and I was), but gosh, it was hard to find!
• After several false starts, I stopped for a beer beside a row of jacaranda trees that were just beyond the point of their fullest, most glorious bloom, but they still gorgeous and provided a carpet of purple petals.
• Refreshed, I set off again, and finally, found it.
• IMO, this small museum held an interesting display and made good use of its space,
• but I must admit that I had placed it on my itinerary because one of my guidebooks recommended its collection of paintings by Greek artists.
• I hadn't realized that its focus is specifically on <u>contemporary</u> Greek artists, and contemporary art is not my favorite.
• Still I appreciated some of the pieces, and I'm always willing to expand my horizons.

I took a path just inside the National Garden,
• where another tortoise welcomed me to his home, before
• Leaving for the nearby <b>Tomb of the Unknown Soldier</b>,
• which I reached just in time for one of the hourly changings of the guard.
• Fascinating! I don't know the origin of the particular steps the guards used, but I can easily understand that that ritual would likely provide an effective screen against most imposters.
• I also appreciated the dignity with which these men carried out their duties, and
• the care that a supervisor took to ensure that their uniforms were arranged impeccably before leaving the tomb in their care.

Returning to the <b>National Garden</b>, I found it a pleasant place for a leisurely stroll away from the worst of the day's heat.
• I particularly enjoyed a vine wrapped gazebo housing a fountain, a duck pond, and a pond thick with young and old turtles climbing over each other in their quest for just the right balance of warming sun and cooling water.
• I also greatly enjoyed a glass of wine in a leafy arbor.

The <b>Museum of Byzantine and Christian Art</b> was very near, and well worth seeing, IMO.
• I began with a collection of modern paintings in the lovely mansion that forms the central building of this museum -- paintings of various traditional Greek gods, goddesses, and saints in modern styles. Interesting!
• I lingered in the extensive and very well signed section on Byzantine art,
• pleased to be able to put many of my experiences while traveling through Greece (Mystras, the churches of Thessaloniki, various other small and ancient churches I visited along the way) in perspective, and
• adding to the information I had gleaned along the way.
• My visit to the collection of Post-Byzantine art was more cursory, in large part because I had greater prior familiarity with these art forms.
• Nonetheless some pieces were of such beauty or craftsmanship that I couldn't help but pause in admiration.

The <b>Museum of Cycladic Art</b> was just a block or so away, and
• my first stop there was in its cafe for a glass of wine.
• I treasured my time in this museum! I may have mentioned that I hadn't known of this genre before coming to Greece, but I fell in love with it.
• I thought the collection excellent, informative, and very well signed.
• I also appreciated a video display on the life of an Ancient Greek man, showing things like the ceramic stool in which toddlers were placed. Cool! (If I had seen any to this time, I hadn't recognized the purpose. I'm glad to say that I later saw one at the National Archeology Museum.)

Having planned my visit to the <b>Benaki Museum</b> for a day when it would be open late,
• I still had several hours to savor its incredible collection. And yes, it is an incredible, and incredibly diverse and intriguingly curated collection!
• I particularly enjoyed the two Ottoman rooms, glorious textiles, and displays of jewelry from different eras.
• I also appreciated a glass of wine on its pleasant terrace as dusk descended over the city.
• Confident that I would have enjoyed much more time here, but comfortable with the time I had given it, I finally left.

Passing through the now largely empty <b>Syntagma Square</b> (it was after 23:00), and
• intrigued by the tiny <b>Agia Dynami</b>, sheltered behind a few columns in a cutaway space of a tall, modern office building,
• I made my way to <b>Athenaikon</b>, where I had a reservation for this late hour and where I was very warmly welcomed.
• Wonderful service, food, and ambience!
• With my waiter's help, I plotted a route back to my hotel, finding the
• Plaka oddly deserted, with only a few scattered still-occupied tables.
• After a few last moments on my balcony, during which I reflected on the many treasures I had seen in just this one day, I collapsed.


<u>Day 28</u>

My first goal for this day was to visit the weekly <b>farmer's market</b> in Koukaki, a district not far from my hotel.
• It was a bit further than I had expected, but I kept seeing people coming toward me holding bags of produce, so I kept going.
• Just as I was about to give up, there it was!
• Despite the many hawkers who saw fit to shout out just as my ear passed in front of them (ouch!), I enjoyed this market --
• The man who insisted that I try a slice of his peach, the young man who insisted on hamming it up for my camera, and
• especially, seeing the way that one particular very elderly lady was greeted so affectionately and attentively by every vendor she passed, no matter how old or young. She was obviously a much beloved member of that community!

Moving slowly on this very hot day, I plodded up the hill behind the Acropolis and down the far side, where
• a pair of men were sitting at the edge of a small square, playing stringed instruments with both skill and love.
• After listening to a song or two,
• I headed steeply down, down, down to the <b>Roman Agora</b>, most notable, IMO, for its fascinating <b>Tower of the Winds</b>.

And then back up, and up, and oh golly, I am tired! -- and up…
• just in time to watch the door to the Canellopoulous Museum being locked. Sigh.
• I faced a choice: I could go on to my next destination, the Acropolis, but if there was a place en route at which I could take a break, I hadn't seen it. Or, I could go partway back down that hill to one of several cafes or tavernas.
• I opted for the break.
• Fortunately, one of the tables in the shade beside the walkway to the ancient agora was open, and I relaxed over a glass of wine and some pleasant views.
• With another slow, plodding walk up the steep hill and a slow plodding walk through the park...

I reached the <b>Acropolis</b>, one of the places I have wanted to see for as long as I can remember.
• With a place like that, I think there is always the risk of disappointment, because my expectations were so high.
• The Acropolis did NOT disappoint!
• I spent hours there, admiring the views, which included glimpses of the sea (silly me -- I honestly had not expected that!);
• marveling at how every bit of the still often rugged rock of this mesa has been worn to a slippery sheen by millennia of footsteps;
• savoring the stunning Parthenon from up close (I thought it magnificent, despite scaffolding over a large portion);
• awed by the entrance (Propyla), with its grand features and small temple (to Athena Nike); and
• smitten by the Caryatids and the Erechtheion.
• Altogether absolutely awesome! Enough so that I was barely even aware of all the crowds, or the many people with their ridiculous selfie-sticks, or how tired I had been earlier that day.

For my decent, I chose the path toward the theater, with
• glimpses of the one time church-caves on the hill, which I didn't get near.
• I did explore a few "minor" sites (by Athens's standards), including the <b>Sanctuary of Asclepius</b>, and
• then the grand <b>Theater of Dionysus</b>. Wow!

Taking advantage of another late museum night, I now turned my attention to the <b>Museum of the Acropolis</b>.
• Once again, my first stop was the outdoor terrace, where I sipped a glass of wine.
• I loved this museum!
• SOOoooo many treasures: from the incredibly well-done true-to-size recreation of the top of the Parthenon; and the Porch of the Erechtheion, showing clearly that each caryatid is unique; and the exquisite and very well signed examples of Greek statues, complete with traces of color and a bit of a small metal disk above a woman's head that was intended to help protect her from bird droppings! (Having been the recipient of a direct hit earlier that day, I wanted one! And why, pray tell, did that little invention disappear from our repertoire?)
• I even enjoyed the glimpse, through transparent segments of flooring, of cats running through the ruins beneath the museum!
• And as a bonus (and none was necessary!) I caught a bit of the day's sunset from the museum;s top floor.
• I spent a number of very happy moments at this awesome museum!

Returning to my hotel with only the briefest of stops to admire some of the many street performers entertaining crowds along the Dionysiou Areopagitou,
• I welcomed a shower and change before going out again.
• I got just a bit lost in Plaka, but with help, found my way to
• <b>2Mazi</b>, where I enjoyed the creative cuisine and pleasant setting, even if I thought there was a slight bit of room for improvement.
• Then another long, quiet walk back to my hotel, again through a disconcertly empty Plaka,
• followed by a few more moments on my balcony, treasuring the view and the thoughts of all the incomparable experiences of the day.


Next up: Athens, part 2 of 2 – my last stop!

Golly, your stamina is impressive! 2 Highlight-Crammed Days! And it does show that it pays to stay within walking distance of Acropolis, because so many of the sight/sites are on pedestrian-only streets/lanes anyway. The ( unspellable) Dionysus Areo-something adds so much to the pleasure of staying on SOUTH side of Acropolis .... no cars on that pleasant promenade (on my FIRST trip, 1999, that was still a busy traffic street! Quel difference!). In the Spring & fall at least, about 1 hour before sunset, the greek families appear for their "volta" (stroll before dinner), with baby carrriage, kiddies on tricycles, people stopping at balloon-sellers and ice-cream carts ... it's like being in a travel poster!

I am also fond of the tree-shaded cafe (it's called Diogenes) just behind the Lysikrates Monument ... and looove that little "arbor cafe" covering the path you take thru National Gardens to the Cycladi & Benaki museums. You are helping lots of newbies to mark their maps for cafes & tavernas, along with the cultural landmarks.

Well, kja, you have covered in one day what it took me 5 or 6 trips to see in Athens! I am breathless.

My default hotel in Athens used to be the Adonis opposite the Acropolis View. Adonis used to be cheap and convenient. I think it is now just convenient. I need to start working my way through the list of hotels brotherleelove posted a while back. This time I flew into Athens for a few days at the beginning of May, but after the madness of Alex, decided to go straight down to Piraeus and the flying dolphin to Poros for some R&R.

Athens has upped its tourist stuff in the past 10-15 years. Little trains chug about now for the weary at the end of their travels; there seem to be much larger crowds too. I too loved the Acropolis Museum, such a lot of space and light and coffee!

I love walking back through Plaka late in the evening. Only local old men in kafenions, waiters clearing tables, cats, space between catering to the tourists. Quiet.

gertie, I think that the place across from Adonis is Acropolis HOUSE, not Acropolis View ... the latter is South of the acropolis, somewhat of a longish walk East along Dionysus Aerosomthng promenade. I think it qualifies as being in Koukaki area.

Acrropolis House, on Koudrou in Plaka, is/was a kinda quirky place, some rooms "updated" and some waaay in the 1950s. I too used Adonis my first 3 visits, but it just raised its prices did nothing to improve it. I'm now a huge fan of Hotel Phaedra, maybe THE best location of any of the budget hotels, only 21 rooms, not fancy, plain hallways, but always fresh & clean w crisp linens and great balcony views PLUS rooftop w umbrellas, view, and no bar - u bring your own picnics or sunset beverages.

Maybe you mentioned it at some point, but how old are you?! What a whirlwind tour, seems you can't be over 50. I'm 58 and in pretty decent shape, but would have been a goner after the first week.

The Museum of Cycladic Art is fantastic, one of my favorites. The collection has grown quite a bit since my visit over 10 years ago. Such simple and beautiful designs.

I liked getting your opinion of the Acropolis Museum because it sounds wonderful from your description. When I see photos of it I have mixed feelings, the architecture seems out of place somehow but you never know until you're there.

As for the Acropolis itself, well, wow! As you said, exceeds expectations. I'm right there with you on that balcony, with wine in hand of course.


travelerjan,

Quirky is one way to describe Acropolis House. Convenience is it's saving grace. I stayed there many years ago, before the so-called renovations and it was dingy AND incredibly disorganized. They essentially overbooked the place and had to juggle people around, kind of a mess really. I couldn't believe the place got such high marks from so many sources. I'll keep Hotel Phaedra in mind for next time, thanks for the tip.

Jan, yes you are right!
Last time in Athens I stayed at the Phaedra on your recommendation. And do you know I never found the roof terrace! As you say, great location.
I am amazed that our paths have never crossed: I too make a beeline for Diogenes for a G&T as soon as I arrive in Athens before I start serious sightseeing.
Do you ever go to Scholarchaiou? That's another one I hang out in eating mezes and people watching!

Gertie -- I have been to Scholaria or however it's spelled, but not of recent years... it is mostly good if you are with 5-6 people and then yu can get a choice, otherwise you are stuck with a huuuge plate of gigantes, and a pyramid of grape leaves and you've spent €14, and you just wanted an itty bit of each. I have some little favorites I go to, but mainly I'm led around by the nose by my old friend Thalia (we were DE's together on TA before the trolls there chased us off)... she's half-Scots/half Athenian, and leads me down nameless alleys to wonderful nameless places where merriment ensues until way too late at night. Lots of fun, but I never get the name or the directions!

Do you not travel with a smart phone? I find the map apps are great help getting around a city. Took my husband a long time to convert from a paper map, but he now agrees the apps work better when we want to get somewhere and not get lost.

@ travelerjan: I’m not sure you should commend my stamina – I was exhausted at the end of those days! But very happily so. I’m glad you recognized, and enjoyed, so many of the places I visited!

@ gertie: My first two full days in Athens were full, weren’t they? But most importantly, full of extraordinary moments! Isn’t the Museum of the Acropolis special? And I agree -- Plaka as it shuts down has a very special charm. I’m glad I saw it that way!

@ Tralfaz: I’ll admit that I am no spring chicken and to feeling fortunate to travel as I do. ;-) … I so agree about the Museum of Cycladic Art – it really is fantastic!

@ yestravel: I don’t own a smart phone. I am in the competition to be the last person on earth to have one, and the two others ;-) who still don’t have one seem very stubborn. And honestly, even if I had a smart phone, I love my “lost” moments. Seriously! I study maps, and I carry maps, and sometimes I just put them aside and roam, as I find it usualy means that I get a MUCH better sense of where I am, and often gives me some unexpectedly delightful moments. JMO.

I still use paper maps-love them. And also agree some wonderful moments and sites are often found when we get lost. However there are times when I just want to get somewhere and love the apps for those times.
Have a friend who will join you in the competition to be the last to get a smart phone.

@ yestravel: Oh no – there are four of us competing for that last-person-to-have-a-smartphone slot? I thought we were down to three. ;-)


...

<b><u>Athens, part 2 of 2 = LAST installment!</b></u>

Day 29

After a few quick errands, I walked to the
• <b>Ancient Agora</b>, which surpassed my expectations.
• I was fascinated by the scope and airiness of the re-created two-story agora, and by the
• various statues in that agora, or scattered among the ruins, and by the
• stunningly effective camouflaging of the green finches that surprised me by flying from a tree I had been admiring and then vanished quite completely into another leafy tree, and
• OMG, the <b>Temple of Hephaestus</b> (aka Thissio) is extraordinarily well preserved! I was gobsmacked.
• I didn't even mind taking pictures of others for them, as it was just another way to see this truly awesome building.
• If smaller than many other temples of any state of preservation I’ve seen, I found it more accessible, perhaps because of it size.

Finally pulling myself away, I found my way to the <b>Benaki Museum of Islamic Art</b> without too much difficulty (although I will admit that the seeming desertion of a few blocks by the museum was a bit disconcerting).
• I found much to enjoy there --
• Some glorious Iznik tiles, an Egyptian reception room, some beautifully carved and layered doors, which, the signage explained, limited the use of scarce wood while also allowing room for the wood to expand and contract in differing weather conditions -- fascinating!

It wasn't far to the <b>Kerameikos Cemetery</b>, with its
• small collection of notable statues and other grave markers, including a few that had been subsequently used as road fill, complete with the marks of chariot wheels! Among them were two sphinxes, a lion, and a truly awesome kouri. Glorious, despite the damage!
• I walked through a bit of the cemetery itself, just to get a sense of the area,
• but I was tired – too tired to roam very far. Call me a wimp, if you must. ;-)

With brief stops at a small memorial to the Holocaust
• and a little courtyard in which handicrafts were for sale,
• I made my way back to an area not far from the Ancient Agora, where I found an
• outdoor table at <b>Kuzina</b>.
• I ordered a glass of wine, and then another, along with an order of absolutely scrumptious dumplings.

With renewed enemy, I walked to
• <b>Hadrian's Library</b>, which I visited from street level only, and then
• <b>Megali Mitropoli</b> (Athens's cathedral), which I thought had a pleasant airiness.

I then began a concerted effort to shop for family and friends. I am NOT a shopper, but I do like finding gifts for family and friends when I travel.
• I easily found a number of token gifts, and
• with a bit more difficulty, I found a few more substantive gifts.
• Unfortunately, I did not fill in all of the slots on my shopping list.

I returned to my hotel to freshen up for what I had hoped would be a special experience:
• Attendance at a performance in the <b>Odeon of Herodes Atticus</b>.
• My only option while in Athens was an opera, <i>Madame Butterfly</i>,
• and even though it is not a story of which I am particularly fond, I splurged for a seat in the center and near the front.
• While I understand the historical validity of this story, I found it extremely difficult to watch it, as a US citizen, without painful embarrassment.
• That said, I can only compliment the performance and the venue:
• Incredible voicing, compelling acting, gorgeous costumes, empassioned execution by the orchestra, and
• What a treat to see a performance in the Odeon of Herodes Atticus!
• As when I saw a performance at the Greek theater in Siracusa, I found it impossible to <u>not</u> think of all the people who had sat in that seat, over so very many centuries, watching and enjoying performances. Wow!

I had (of course) carefully researched my dinner options, and had reserved a table at <b>Dionysos Zonar's</b> well in advance.
• Although the performance had run late, the hostess greeted me warmly.
• BUT, the music was MUCH too loud, my food was decidedly substandard, and my server was actually insulting.
• If I had known of ANY other option at that late hour, I would have left.
• Thank goodness I had eaten that afternoon!

Fortunately, my hotel was very near, and I soon went to sleep.


<u>Day 30</u>

Welcome to my last full day in Athens, and in Greece!
• I began with a brief stop at the nearby <b>Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum</b>, which displays pieces by this man and his workshop.
• Much was decidedly <i>haute couture</i>, with some pieces of simple elegance, and many others of a substantially more ostentatious or flambouyant or daring style, complete with fashion magazine shots.
• There was also a display Lalounis work with examples of items from Greek history that inspired them, and I found that portion of the exhibition quite interesting, as I thought it nicely highlighted the differences between some of the styles of ancient Greek jewelry that I had seen during my travels.

Climbing over the hill leading to the Acropolis one last time, I found that the <b>Canellopoulous Museum</b> was open, so I stopped there briefly, too.
• Its collections of Ancient Greek and Byzantine art were small, but included a few pieces that I am glad to have seen.
• I also appreciated a small side room where hands-on displays were intended to help children learn a bit about these arts.

It was another hot day, and very humid, too.
• I was on my way to the National Archeological Museum when a few raindrops began falling.
• I kept going.
• The rain became a bit more intense.
• I kept going.
• And then, just a block or two from the museum, the skies opened to a torrential downpour!
• Fortunately, I was right beside a small arcade -- a small open area edged by columns under a much larger, taller building, so I ducked under cover.
• My thoughts over the next half hours went something like: “I’m so glad I was right by this protected area!... Wow, it’s really coming down…. Gosh, I’ve been here more than 15 minutes now…. It’s STILL really coming down, with no sign that it will let up…. How much longer can this last? … Where is my emergency poncho when I need it!... Oh, it’s in my day pack!” And LOL, there it was!
• I pulled it out, donned it, and set out.

Pulling my skirt up, I forded the mid-calf-deep rushing river otherwise known as a cross street, and,
• clutching my poncho to my head, began carefully slogging through the puddled sidewalks, when
• OUCH!!! Something hit my shoulder! And OUCH!!! Something hit my head! Oh my: ping pong ball sized hail. Argh!
• It was too slippery to run, so I just did my best to hunch over and step carefully as I could as I slogged through the streaming water, forded another side stream, and tried to protect myself from the pelting hail.
• Soon, I turned into the landscaped walkway to the museum's entrance, and
• as I slowly, painfully, made my way toward the stairs that define the entrance, I started hearing something rhythmic, like percussion.
• I looked up, and found that a few of the people who were waiting on the museum’s portico, at the top of the stairs, had began cheering me on. How nice!
• And then more, and more!
• By the time I reached the base of those stairs, the crowd – now filling every corner of that portico -- was in full support mode, chanting and clapping in unison, and
• Oh my, when I finally stepped into the shelter of that portico, I was greeted by rousing shouts of WOOHOO and YAY, complete with arms raised and high fives!
• Now THAT was a moment I had not planned!
• I’m not sure any Olympic athlete ever received a warmer welcome.

I dried off with a glass of wine in the museum's pleasant courtyard,
• finished my gift shopping at the museum's shop, and
• decided to do something I rarely do -- hire a guide for an hour or so.
• To my surprise, I couldn't! I was told that English speaking guides no longer offer services at this museum, because "everyone" who speaks English just uses his/her smart phone. As already noted, I’m still in the running to be the LAST person on earth without a smart phone (or for that matter, a stupid one), so I was out of luck. But that was OK …
• It seems that my travels and my research had prepared me very well for this museum.

Athens's <b>National Archeological Museum</b> was exactly what I had hoped -- the perfect capstone to my time in Greece!
• I saw treasures from most, of not all, of the major archeological sites that I had visited, and other treasures, too!
• And I thought the signage and curation admirable.
• I spent more than six happy hours at the museum, with a brief break or two.
• I had time for only a quick visit to the extensive collection of vases, but otherwise, saw everything I hoped to see.
• And I left knowing that I had been fortunate enough to visit an incredible collection.

I took a taxi to my hotel, where I went to it’s rooftop deck, hoping to see the sunset.
• My hour there was pleasant, but no real sunset -- just an ever darkening sky.
• Still, it was very nice to sip a glass of wine with a view of the Acropolis as the day shifted to night.

For my last night in Athens, I hoped for a comfortable, casual restaurant not far from my hotel.
• After a rather ambling walk, I ended up at <b>Skoumbri</b>.
• Set along a pleasant, leafy, quiet avenue not far from my hotel and
• filled with Greek-speaking diners, it proved to be
• exactly what I wanted for a last, tasty meal.

I strolled back to my hotel,
• packed everything I could, and
• lingered for a while on my balcony, so grateful for this trip
• and this last chance to admire the night-lit Parthenon.


<u>Day 31</u>

I finished packing,
• made a quick last stop in my hotel's roof deck, and
• took a pre-arranged taxi to the airport.

After the usual airport rituals, my flight departed.
• Unfortunately, cloud cover precluded even the tiniest of last glimpses of this glorious country.
• I was routed through Newark, where weather caused hours and hours of delays.
• When I eventually reached my final destination, it was without luggage, which didn't arrive until the next day. But it did arrive safely, so no complaints.

I readily admit that I was completely, utterly exhausted by the time I reached home. I don’t think I had even one more day in me! But, as I had hoped, I took advantage of every single moment I had in glorious Greece -- and I would FAR rather return exhausted than to have indulged a transient desire for rest. (Just me -- no criticism of those who have different travel priorities.)


<b>A few final thoughts</b>

It was a month of truly glorious moments – so many interactions with Greek people who could not have been more graciously welcoming; so many stunning ruins and artifacts from so many different cultural traditions; such beautiful, and wonderfully diverse scenery; such delicious foods; … well, I’ve already noted these things. Let me just say, once again, how truly fortunate I feel to have had these moments and these experiences.

Once again, many, many thanks to every Fodorite who helped me make this trip so special!

And my sincere thanks, too, to each of you who have joined me for this vicarious journey! I may be committed to solo (actual) travel, but I surely do enjoy having company along the way as I relive my experiences, and I’m very pleased to have had so many delightful travel companions for this second part of my journey. Thank you so much! (And if anyone joins later, welcome! And please, let me know!)

I will, of course, remain available for questions.
Thanks again, one and all!

Kja, thank you so much for such an amazing report. I greatly enjoyed the opportunity to tag along with you and learned a thing or two from your report.

Quite the experience with the hailstorm! Nice to know when others are cheering us on isn't it? Well, you've certainly made me consider a trip toGreece sometime in the future. Thanks kja for another helpful report.

@ tripplanner: I’m glad you learned a thing or two, am glad you tagged along, and if my report is amazing, well, that’s undoubtedly in large part because <i>Greece</i> is amazing. I have no doubt that you will enjoy it!

@ sundriedtopepo: Messages crossing! Yes, that hail storm was something, and OMG, it was so very nice to be cheered on as I was! I had many, many wonderful moments along the way, but that experience certainly stands out in my memory. I'm sure you would enjoy a trip to Greece, and am glad I've provided a helpful report. Thanks for encouraging me, even before I wrote the first word!

What a lovely report on a lovely country. Greece really is a special place. Like you I spent about a month there (didn't cover nearly as much ground!) and feel very fortunate to have been able to do so. Of course everyone's tastes are different, but that trip left me with the kind of indelible experience no place I've seen since has matched. I learned a lot from your report and was reminded that it's high time I return to Greece. Thanks so much.

On my first trip ('99), after decades of wishing (but Life got in the Way), I had as companion for first 6 days my great sis-in-law, an artist, which greatly enhanced our experiences in Athens, Santorini & Crete. I then stayed on solo in Crete, then hopped to Paros, Naxos (where I lingered!), then Mykonos, where a very wise artist pointed me toward Nafplio, then a visit to Delphi & back to Athens... 30 days that changed my life.

I knew I needed to keep going back but couldn't see how, after retiring on a measly pension. But then my sister asked me to escort her & 3 friends, in return for buying my ticket. Done! And it started me thinking, and spreading the word, and led to 8 other trips where, through word-of-mouth I'd find myself with 3-4 eager newbie "travel pals" to share my discoveries and favorite places ... now so many are treasured friends over the years. I've visited more than 25 islands, some of them many many times and a bunch of wonderful places on the mainland. Not as peppy as in the past, I've also done 3 trips solo ... and if I can muster the muscles one more time, hoping for a Farewell Tour in 2018 ... much less ambitious than my first trip, or KJA's... but filled with the same joy & appreciation. Bravo, KJA - and don't make your first trip to Greece your last one; the discoveries never end!

Kja, thank you. I’ve enjoyed your report immensely especially the many memories it brought back for me and my goodness, I admire your stamina. It’s well over 50 years since I began travelling to Greece and not once have I tired of it.

I agree with your thoughts and feelings about the Parthenon and the Acropolis. They had exactly the same effect on me when I first saw them and again when I first saw them floodlit.

When you go back (and you will!) take a little stroll through Anafiotika, just at the side of the Acropolis hill. That’s been one of my special places since being directed to it by a local on my initial visit. I’ve returned there every single time I’ve been in Athens because in this mad, crazy and wonderful city it’s a unique experience to feel you’ve been instantly transported to a tiny island village.

Bill

Congratulations on the planning that went into this, and, again, on the driving!

Thanks for a wonderful report on a wonderful trip, and for reminding me how much I enjoyed Greece.

I'm so glad you had such a wonderful trip, Kja! I loved traveling vicariously with you! Thanks!

Will you be posting any pics?